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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WfST  MAIN  STMIT 

WEBSTIR.N.Y.  UStO 

(716)872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


II 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  tnatitute  for  Historical  IMicroreproductions  /  institut  Canadian  de  microraproductions  li'storiquas 


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Tachnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notaa  tachniquaa  at  bibllographiquaa 


TlM 

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Tha  Inttituta  has  anamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  avaiiabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  In  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chadcaid  balow. 


□   Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  couiaur 


|~n   Covars  damagad/ 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Couvartura  andommagAa 


Covers  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastauria  at/ou  pallicul4a 


nn   Covar  titia  miaaing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


pn   Colourad  maps/ 


Cartaa  giographiquas  an  couiaur 


Colourad  inic  (i.a.  othar  than  biua  or  blacic)/ 
Encra  da  couiaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noiral 


I — I   Colourad  plataa  and/or  iiiuatrations/ 


Planchaa  at/ou  iliustrationa  an  couiaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rail*  avac  d'autraa  documants 


Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

Lareliura  sarria  paut  causar  da  i'ombra  ou  da  la 
distoraion  la  long  da  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  tha  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
11  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
iors  d'une  resuuration  apparaissant  dana  la  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  ceia  Atait  poasibia,  cas  pagaa  n'ont 
pas  At*  f  ilmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentairas  supplimentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  *ti  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
da  cat  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-itre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibiiographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithoda  normaia  da  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  d-dessous. 


r~1   Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pagaa  da  couiaur 

Pagaa  damaged/ 
Pagaa  andommagiaa 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  rastaurAas  at/ou  pellicuiies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe« 
Pages  dicolories.  tacheties  ou  piquiaa 


r~~l   Pagaa  damaged/ 

r~~|   Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r*n   Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 


n   Pages  detached/ 
Pages  dAtachies 

0Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

|~~|   Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Qualiti  inigale  de  Timpression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  matiriei  suppi4mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seuie  Mition  disponibie 


Pages  wholly  or  pertially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmad  to 
ensure  the  bast  possible  image/ 
Les  psges  totalement  ou  partiallement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  itA  film*es  i  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Th( 
pot 
of 
filH 


Ori 
bai 
th« 
slo 
otr 
fin 
sic 
or 


Th( 
shi 
Tl^ 
wh 

Ms 

dif 
em 
bai 

rigl 
raq 
ma 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  riduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  filmMl  h«r«  hat  b««n  reproduced  thanks 
to  tha  ganarotity  of: 

Bibiiothiqua  nationala  du  Quibac 


L'axamplaira  fllmi  fut  raproduit  griea  A  la 
giniroaM  da: 

BibliothAque  nationala  du  Quebec 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
poaalbia  oonaidaring  tha  condition  and  laglblllty 
of  tha  original  copy  and  In  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apaolficatlona. 


Original  copias  In  printad  papar  covara  ara  fllmad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  ending  on 
tha  last  page  with  a  printed  or  llluatrated  impres- 
•ion,  ov  the  beck  cover  when  eppropriete.  All 
other  original  coplea  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  llluatrated  imprea- 
slon,  and  ending  on  the  iaat  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustreted  im^reesion. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^^^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  T  (meening  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Lea  images  suhrantas  ont  At*  raproduites  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattet*  da  rexemplaire  film*,  at  an 
conformiti  evec  lea  conditions  du  contret  de 
fiimege. 

Les  exempiairea  originaux  dont  la  couvarture  en 
pepler  eet  imprim^e  sent  fllm4s  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  ia 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impreaaion  ou  d'iilustration,  soit  par  le  aacond 
plat,  aelon  le  caa.  Tous  lea  autrea  axempleires 
originaux  sont  fllmte  an  commen^ent  per  ia 
prerriAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impreaaion  ou  d'iilustration  at  en  terminant  par 
ia  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  dee  aymbolea  suivanta  apparaftra  sur  ia 
darnlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  la 
was:  le  symbole  — »>  signlfie  "A  SUiVRE",  le 
symbole  ▼  signlfie  "FIN". 


Maps,  piatea,  charta,  etc.,  mey  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  lerge  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  expoaura  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  frames  ea 
required.  The  following  diagrams  iiluatrata  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tebieaux,  etc.,  peuvent  fttre 
flimte  A  das  taux  da  rAduction  dIftAranta. 
Lorsque  le  document  eat  trap  grand  pour  Atra 
raproduit  en  un  aaul  cilchA,  11  est  filmA  A  partlr 
da  I'angia  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  heut  en  iMa,  an  pranent  le  nombre 
d'imeges  nAcasstnire.  Lea  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrant  ia  mAthoda. 


1  2  3 


12  3 

4  5  6 


\  I 


THE 


TRAVELLER'S   GUIDE 


THROUGH  THB 


MIDDLE  AND  NORTHERN  STATES, 


AND  THK 


1- 


PROVINCES  OP  CANADA. 


)•.    ,(  .  .  J    -js 


BY  O.   M.   DAVISON. 


ii 


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Saratoga  Springs: 

PUBLISHED  BT  O.  M.  DAVISON  ;  AND  BT  6.  S.  & 
W.  WOOD,  NEW-TORK. 

liDCCSXXZIlI. 


<> 


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Entered  according  to  the  act  of  Congress,  in  the 
year  1837,  by  G.  M.  Dayison,  in  the  Clerk's  office  of 
the  District  Courl  of  the  Northern  District  of  New- 
York. 


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INDEX. 


Page, 

Introduction, • •  •  •  •  •  15 

From  tiugustaf  Geo.  to  Charleston,  S,  C. 

Augusta— Hamburgh, 19 

From  Savannah  to  Charleston, 

Savannah, 20 

Steam-boat  route— table  of  distances, 21 

Land  route — table  of  distances, id 

Charleston, 22 

Sullivan's  Island, 23 

From  Charleston  to  JWw- Yorfc. 

Route  by  water— table  of  distances, 25 

From  Charleston  to  J^orfolk. 

Table  of  distances — Santee  river, 26 

Georgetown— Wilmington, id 

Newbem — Washington — ^Plymouth, 27 

Roanoke  river — Albemarle  Sound, • id 

Elizabeth  City — Dismal  Swamp, 28 

Dismal  Swamp  canal, id 

Portsmouth— Norfolk, 29 

From  Norfolk  to  Washington. 

Table  of  distances,. » 30 

From  ^''orfolk  to  Baltimore. 

Table  of  distances— Chesapeake  Bay, 31 


37350 


'X    * 

ii  INDEX. 

From  Norfolk  to  Richmond, 

Table  of  distances, 31 

Jamestown, , 32 

Williamsburgh— Richmond, 34 

Manchester, 35 

From  Richmond  to  Monticello, 

Monticello— Grave  of  Jefferson, 35 

From  J\Ionticdlo  to  the  Warm  Springs. 

Warm  Springs— Natural  Bridge, ,......,.  37 

From  Richmond  to  Washington  City, 

Route  and  table  of  distances— Fredericksburgh, . .  38 

Mount  Vernon, 39 

Alexandria, ••....  40 

Washington  City, , 41 

Georgetown, 60 

Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canal, 50 

From  Washington  to  Baltimore, 

Rail  road, 51 

Baltimore, 52 

Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail  road, 56 

Baltimore  and  Susquebannah  rail  road,. 58 

From  Baltimore  to  Philadelphia, 

Rail  road  route  by  Wilmington, 60 

Steam-boat  and  rail  road  route — North  Point,. ...  61 

Chesapeake  and  Delaware  canal, 68 

French  Town  and  Newcastle  rail  road, id 

Newcastle — ^Philadelphia, 64 

Internal  improvements — ^Union  canal, 74 

Pennsylvania  canal, 75 

Other  canals,. 77 


INDEX.  iU 

From  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburgh, 

Table  of  distances— Columbia  rail  road, 79 

Paoli — Do  wningtown — Lancaster — Columbia, ...  82 

Pennsylvania  canal — Marietta— Harrisburgh,....  83 

Alleghany  mountains — Portage  rail  road, 85 

Pittsburgh, 8$ 

Coal  mines, 87 

From  Philadelphia  to  the  SchuylkiU  Coal  Mints. 

Table  of  distances — Germantown 92 

Norristown — Pottstown — Reading, id 

Hamburgh — Mount  Carbon, 93 

Rail  roads  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mines, •  •  •  •  94 

Rmte  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Mines, 

Mauch  Chunk, 96 

Mauch  Chunk  rail  road, 97 

Lehigh  river, 98 

The  Landing — Lehighton, 99 

Lehigh  Water  Gap, id 

Bethlehem, 100 

Easton — Morris  canal, 101 

Delaware  Wind  Gap — Delaware  Water  Gap,, . . .  108 

From  Easton  to  Schooly^s  Mountain  and  thenc^  i^i 
J^ew'York, 

Table  of  distances— Schooly*s  Mountain, 103 

Newark,  N.  J id 

From  Philadelphia  to  J^eW'York. 

Route  by  the  Camden  and  Amboy  rail  road, 104 

Burlington — Bristol — Bordento  wn, id 

Camden  and  Amboy  rail  road, 105 

Route  by  the  way  of  Trenton, 107 

Philadelphia  and  Trenton  rail  road — Trenton,. ...  id 

Princeton, * ...••• 108 

N.  Brunswick — New  Jersey  rail  road, 109 

a2 


\ 


iv  INDEX. 

Rah  way — Elizabethtown — Newark, id 

New- York, 110 

Principal  Hotels, 119 

Excursions — Governor's  and  Bedlow's  Islands,. ..  122 

Patterson — Passaic  Falls, id 

Hoboken— Weehawk, 123 

Long  Branch — Harlaem  rail  road, id 

Hurl  Gate^Brookly n, 1 24 

Brooklyn,  Jamaica  and  L.  Island  rail  road 125 

Rockaway, , • t  •  •  • .  i  126 

From  J^no-  York  to  Albany. 

Table  of  distances, 127 

Passage  of  the  Hudson— Wehawken, 128 

Pallisadoes, 129 

Fort  Lee— Fort  Washington, id 

Tapptin  Bay— Tarrytown, 130 

Haverstraw  Bay — rli^hlands, 131 

Cald welPs  Landing — ^Horse  Race,. '.  •  1 32 

West  Point, 133 

Military  Academy, 134 

Pollopel  Island — New  Windsor— Newburgh,, ...  136 

Milton — Poughkeepsie, « 133 

Hyde  Park  Landing, 139 

Delaware  and  Hudson  canal— Catskill, id 

Pine  Orchard,. , « 1 40 

Athens, 142 

Hudson — Coxsackie  Landing, 143 

Albany, 144 

Excursion  to  Saratoga  Springs, 

Route  by  the  way  of  Schenectady, 148 

Mohawk  and  Hudson  rail  road, id 

Buel's  Farm — Schenectady, 150 

Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  road, 151 

3allston  Lake, 1 52 

Ballston  Spa, 153 

Route  by  the  way  of  Troy  to  Saratoga  Springs, .  156 

Gen  Van  Rensselaer's  mansion, id 


INDEX.  V     ' 

M'Adamized  road— -U.  S.  Arsenal, 157 

Watervliet—Troy, 168 

Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  rail  road, IGl 

Van  Schatck'slsland--Lansingburgh— Waterford,  162 
Cohocs  Falls— The  Junction — Mechanic\illc,....  163 
Saratoga  Springs, 164 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  the  Battle  Ground. 

i^aratoga  Lake, 176 

Bemus'  Heights, 177 

Freeman's  Farm 178 

Smith  House— Schuylerville, 179 

Fort  Edward, 180 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  Lake  George. 

Sandy  Hill, 18t 

Glen's  Falls, 182 

Jessup's  Falls — ^Hadley  Falls, 183 

Bloody  Pond — Caldwell — Lake  George 184 

Fort  William  Henry, 186 

Passage  of  Lake  George, •• •....  188 

Ticonderoga, •  •  •  1 1  191 

EXCURSION  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS, 

BT  RAIL  ROAD  AND  STAGE. 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  Buffalo. 

Remarks, 193 

Table  of  distances, ......«,•  195 

Utica  and  Schenectady  rail  road, 196 

Amsterdam — Fonda, 199 

Palatine  Bridge — Fort  Plain — Johnstown, 200 

Sharon  Springs— Little  Falls, 20t 

Herkimer, 204 

Utica, 205 

Trenton  Falls, 206 

New-Hartford — Manchester — ^Vernon, 211 

Oneida  Castle^Lenox—Cluality  Hill— Chitteningo,  2 1 2 
Manlius, 213 


\  '  '■' 


y%  INDEX. 

Jamesvllle — Onondaga  Hollow, 214 

Onondaga  Hili— Marcellus^ id 

Skaneateles, 815 

Auburn— State  Prison, 216 

Cayuga, 218 

Seneca  Falls— Waterloo, 219 

Geneva — Geneva  Lake, 220 

Canandaigua, 222 

Burning  Springs, 225 

E.  &  W.  Bloomfield— Lima— East  Avon 227 

Avon  Spring — Caledonia — Leroy, ••  223 

Batavia, 229 

Batavia  toBufialo, 230 

ERIE  CANAL. 

Description  of, 230 

Table  of  distances, 234 

Whitesborough, ^ 237 

Oriskany — Rome, • .  238 

New  London, 239 

Chitteningo — Syracuse, 240 

Salina, 241 

Oswego  canal — Geddes — Nino  Mile  creek, 243 

Canton — Jordan — Weed's  Port, 244 

Centre  Port — Port  Byron — Lake  Port, id 

Clyde— Palmyra— Fair  Port, 245 

FuUom's  Basin— Pittsford, «...  246 

Rochester, id 

Tonewanda  rail  road, ••.. • 250 

Ridge  road, 251 

Carthage 252 

Brockport — HoUey— Albion — Medina, 253 

Gasport — Lockport, 254 

Buffalo, 255 

Seneca  Village, 259 

Western  Lakes — Lake  Superior, id 

Lake  Huron — Lake  Michigan, 260 

Lake  Erie, 261 


INDEX. 


yii 


From  Bii\ffaio  io  Detroit, 

Table  of  distances— Dunkirk, 263 

Van  Buren — Erie, id 

Ashtabula— Cleveland, 263 

Ohio  and  £rie  Canal, « id 

Sand  usky, S64 

Amherstburgh, 265 

Detroit, 266 

St.  Joseph, 267 

From  Detroit  to  Chicago* 

Table  of  distancea— Toledo, 268 

Adrien — Tecumseh, id 

Niles — Michigan  Citv — Chicago, 269 

From  Chicago  to  Milwaukee, 271 

Do.  to  Galena, id 

Do.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  river,....  272 


From  Buffalo  to  J^iagctra  Falls. 

American  side — Black  Rock, 272 

Canada  side, • id 

Waterioo * 273 

Chippewa  Battle  Ground, 274 

Chippewa  Village— Bridge  water  or  Lundy*s  Lane,  275 

Burning  Spring, 277 

Niagara  Falls, 278 

Canada  side, 279 

American  side, 281 

Biddle  stair  way, 283 

Welland  canal, 285 

Ctueenston,  battle  of, • 287 

Brock's  Monument, 288 

Fort  George  or  Newark, 2S9 

Youngstown — Lewiston, id 

Ridge  Road  or  Alluvial  Way, 290 

Tuscarora  Village — Devil's  Hole, 291 

Whiripool— Sulphur  Spring—American  Fall,. . . .  298 


•;■■  rvf  , 


vm 


INDEX. 


► 


LAKE  ONTARIO. 
Description  of, • 292 

American  side — table  of  distances, 294 

Charlotte, <i 

Great  Sodus  Bay — Oswego,. . .«......,......••  295 

Sackett's  Harbor, 297 

Cape  Vincent — M  orristown — Ogdensburgh, .....     i4 

Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 298 

Gallop  Islands— St.  Regis, 299 

Lachine — Montreal, ••.......  300 

Excursions— Lachine — Yarennes,  ..............  303 

Rideau  canal, •  •  •  •  •  304 

From,  Montreal  to  (luebee. 

Description  of  the  route, 309 

William  Henry, 310 

Lake  St.  Peter—Three  Rivers, 311 

Richelieu  Rapids — Sillery  river— Wolfe's  Cove,.  •  312 

Point  Levi,. id 

Cluebec, 313 

Plains  of  Abraham, 323 

Martello  Towers, 324 

Falls  of  Montmorenci, id 

Lorette, 327 

Chaudiere  Falls, 328 

St.  Lawrence  river  below  Cluebec, 339 

Saguenay  river, 331 

Mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 333 

From  Cluebec  to  Montreal, id 

From  Montreal  to  Whitehall. 

Table  of  distances, , 334 

Laprarie—St.  Johns, id 

Lake  Champlain — Isle  aux  Noix, , .  335 

Rouse's  Point—Plattsburgh 336 

Downie's  Monument, 337 


'W 


INDEX.  iX 

Port  Kent— Ad^ate*8  Falls— High  Bridge, ......  339 

Burlington— Split  Rock, 340 

Crown  Point— Ticonderosa— Mount  Independence,  341 
South  and  East  Bays— Whitehall, 342 

CHAMPLAIN  CANAL. 
Description  of, 342 

Cand  route  from  Whitehall  to  »^lbany. 
Table  of  distances, • 343 

From  Whitehall  to  Troy  ard  ^^Ihany,  hy  Stage  and  Rail 

Road, 

Table  of  distances, « 344 

Fort  Ann — Burgoyne's  road, id 

Sandy  Hill— Fortville, 345 

Saratoga  Springs  to  Troy  and  Albany, id 

ROUTES  TO  BOSTON. 
Remarks  relating  to, 34(> 

From  »^lbany  to  Boston, 

Table  of  distances, id 

New  Lebanon, 347 

Pittsfield— Natural  Bridge, 348 

Northampton — Farmington  and  Hampshire  canal,  349 

Mount  Holyoke, ...» id 

Hadle^, 350 

Regicides,  Whalley  and  Gofie, •  351 

Belchertown — Ware  Factory  Village — Brookfield,  353 

Leicester — Worcester, • 354 

Boston  and  Worcester  rail  road, ..••••  355 

Worcester  to  Boston, • • .  • . .  id 

From  SartUoga  Springs  to  Boston, 

Table  of  distances — Schuylerville, 356 

Union  Village— Cambridge— Arhngton, 357 


**  1 


r',':''Ti"  ''■'".'^•*i*F •- 


ft 


X  IKDSX. 

Manchester — Chester^-Bellows  Falls, id 

Walpole, 359 

Keene-'-^roton— Concord, id 

Lexington, 360 

Cambridge, 361 

From  Whitehall  to  Boston. 

t 

Fairhaven — Castleton, 362 

Rutland— Chester, 364 

From  Burlington  to  Bostonj  through  Windsor,  Vt, 

Table  of  distances — Montpelier, .  •  • 365 

Randolph — Royalton — Woodstock — Windsor,.. ,  366 
Windsor  to  Boston, • id 

(,  ■ 

From  Burlington  to  Boston^  by  way  of  the  White  jyfoun- 
tains  and  Condordf  JVT.  H. 

Table  of  distances — Hanover,  (see  note) 367 

White  Mountains, 368 

Conway — Fryeburgh,. ... 375 

From  Conway  to  Concord, 

Centre  Harbor— Red  Mountain — SquamLake,.*  376 
Concord, 377 

Trom  Concord  to  Boston* 

TTashua- Lowell, 378 

Boston  and  Lowell  rail  road, 380 

Boston, 381 

East  Boston, 389 

Mount  Auburn — Cluincy, 390 

Dorchester-«-Brighton, 391 

Watertown — Cambridge,. 392 

Charlestown, id 

Breed's  Hill, 393 

Bunker  Hill  Monument — Chelsea, 397 

Fort  Independence — Nahant, 398 

Forts  around  Boston  erected  during  the  revolution  402 


INDEX.  ^ 

From  Boston  to  Portland, 

Table  of  distances — ^Lynn,. 408 

Salem — Newburyport, 409 

Portsmouth, 410 

Portland, 411 

From  Portland  to  Q,uehee, 

Remarks  relative  to  the  route, 412 

Table  of  distances, id 

North  Yarmouth — Freeport, 413 

Brunswick, id 

Bowdointown — Hallowell, id 

Augusta — Sidney, 414 

Waterville — Bloomfield — Norridgework, id 

Remainder  of  the  route  to  Ctuebec, 415 

From  Portland  to  Eastport, 

Table  of  distances, 415 

Bath — Wiscasset— N ew  Castle — ^Waldoboro', .   .416 

Warren — Thomastown, r     id 

Camden — Belfast — Buckstown — Penobscot, .. . .  r  417 

Castine, • id 

Machias — Eastport,  ••••.... 418 

Robinstown, 419 

From  Boston  to  Providence, 

Boston  and  Providence  rail  road, 419 

Dedham,  {see  notef) u{ 

Providence, <. 420 

Blackstone  Canal, ^  423 

Stonington  and  Providence  rail  road, id 

From  Protddence  to  J^ewport, 

Bristol — ^Nev^port, , , , .  424 

Fort  Green— Mount  Hope— King  Philip, .......  427 

B 


•f'..-. -f-  ;"-•'. -vi:/^-- 


Xii  INDEX. 

From  Providence  to  J^eio-London. 

Stonington, 431 

New-London, 432 

Steam-boat  and  stages, 434 

From  ^eW'London  to  J^orwichf  by  steam^hoat, 

Thames  river, 434 

Mohegan — Trading  Cove — ^Norwich, 435 

From  J^orwich  to  Hartford. 

Table  of  distances — ^East  Hartford — Hartford, . . .  437 
Steam  boats  and  stages  from  Hartford, 44Q 

:  \i     -  —      From  Hartford  to  iffew-Haven, 

Table  of  distances — Wethersfield, 44 1 

Rocky  Hill— Middletown, 442 

Natural  Ice  Houses, 44S 

Haddam — Saybrook,  {see  note,) id 

New-Haven, 444 

Yale  College, • 445 

West  Rock, 448 

East  Rock — Farmington  CanaJ, ,  447 

Steam  boats  from  New-Haven  to  New- York,.. , ,  448 
Stages  from  New-Haven, id 

Route  from  ^ew-Haven  to  Jfew-YorJe. 

Table  of  distances — Sketch  of  the  route,  {see  Mof«,)  448 

Bridgeport — Fairfield, id 

Norwalk — West  Chester  county,  ••••« .449 

Horseneck — ^Harlaem, , id 

From  J^ew-Haven  to  Litchfield, 

Stages— Waterbury — West  Rock, ,  449 

Watertown — Litchfield—Mount  Tom, 450 

Great  Pond— Chalybeate  Spring— Mount  Prospect,    id 


INDEX.  XIU 

From  Litchfield  to  »&lbany. 
Stages  and  intervening  places, 451 

From  Litchfield  to  Hartfiyrd, 

Harwinton — Burlington, 451 

Farmington — Hartford, 452 

Route  up  the  Valley  of  the  Connecticut  river, 

Windsor— Enfield, ^ 452 

Suffield — West  Springfield — Springfield, 454 

South  Hadley  Falls 456 

Northampton — Hadley — Hatfield, id 

Muddy  Brook, 457 

Deerfield, 458 

Greenfield, 460 

Turner's  Falls, 461 

Bernardstown — Vernon — Guilford,.. 462 

Brattleborough — Dummerston — Putney, . , id 

Westminster — Walpole — Bellows  Falls, 463 

Charlestown, id 

Springfield — Weathersfield — Windsor— Hartland,  464 
Harttbrd— Hanover, 465 


f 


i 


INTRODUCTION. 


Thk  oppressive  heat  of  summer  in  the  southern  sec- 
tions of  the  United  States,  and  the  consequent  expos- 
ure  to  illness,  have  long  induced  the  wealthy  part  of 
the  population  to  seek,  at  that  season  of  the  year,  the 
more  salubrious  climate  of  the  north.  But  the  recent 
gigantic  internal  improvements  in  the  northern  and 
middle  slates,  and  the  development  of  new  and  highly 
interesting  natural  scenery,  together  with  the  increased 
facilities  for  travelling,  have  greatly  augmented  the 
number  of  tourists  within  a  short  period.  The  rail 
roads,  canals,  coal  mines,  the  Springs,  the  Falls,  the 
Lakes,  the  fortifications  of  Cluebec,  the  sublime  moun- 
tain scenery  in  New- York  and  New-England,  with  the 
various  attractions  presented  in  the  large  commercial 
cities,  cannot  fail  of  insuring  to  a  traveller  a  rich  com- 
pensation for  the  toils  incident  to  a  journey. 

This  work  is  designed  as  a  pocket  manual  and  guide 
to  travellers  visiting  these  places.  Our  limits  forbid 
that  we  should  indulge  in  elaborate  descriptions  or  mi- 
nute geographical  and  statistical  details.  We  have 
therefore  confined  ourselves  to  subjects  of  more  imme- 
diate interest  to  the  tourist ;  directing  him  in  his  course 
and  pointing  out,  as  he  passes,  objects  which  most  de- 
serve his  notice  and  regard. 

The  Guide,  it  will  be  perceived,  commencei  at  Au- 
gusta, in  Georgia,  though  a  rapid  glance  of  the  country 


XVI 


INTRODUCTION. 


merely  is  taken  until  reaching  Washington  City.  The 
travelling  from  south  to  north  being  more  generally  by- 
water  than  otherwise,  a  minute  description  of  the  coun- 
try between  Augusta  and  Washington  would  be  unin- 
teresting and  unimportant  to  a  great  proportion  of  the 
readers  of  these  pages.  We  therefore  briefly  notice 
some  of  the  prominent  cities  and  towns,  and  pass  on 
to  those  sections  embraced  within  what  has  been  usual- 
ly denominated  the  Fashionable  or  Northern  Tour. 


n 


City.  The 
snerally  by 
f  the  coun- 
Id  be  unin- 
tion  of  the 
efly  notice 
nd  pass  on 
een  usual- 
BRN  Tour. 


THE  TRAVELLER'S  GUIDE. 


FROM  AUGUSTA,  GEO.,  TO  CHARLESTON,  S.  C. 

136  miles. 

Augusta  is  an  incorporated  city,  and  the  capital  of 
Richmond  county,  Geo.  It  is  located  on  the  Savannah 
river,  340  miles  by  water  above  Savannah,  between 
which  places  it  is  navigable  for  boats  of  only  100  torn 
burthen.  The  city  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  and 
several  churches,  banks  and  other  public  buildings, 
many  of  which  are  creditable  to  the  taste  and  munifi- 
cence of  the  inhabitants.  The  population  in  1830  was 
6,696,  since  which  it  must  have  increased  to  8  or  9000. 

From  Hamburgh,  a  village  of  some  magnitude  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  Charleston  and  Ham- 
burgh rail  road  commences,  connecting  the  two  places 
by  a  steam  communication  135  miles  long.  It  was 
commenced  in  1830  and  completed  in  1833.  Instead 
of  being  graded,  it  consists  principally  of  trestle  work — 
the  rails,  in  many  instances,  being  from  12  to  15  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  grcund.  There  being  no  horse 
path,  this  elevation  is  oaentiiBies  unpleasant  to  passen- 
gers; which,  added  to  the  importance  of  rendering  the 
work  more  dnral/ie,  has  induced  the  company  to  un- 
dertake a  more  solid  structure — so  that  ultimately,  the 

B 


to 


FROM  SAVANNAH  TO  rHARLF.STO>r. 


entire  road  will  probably  bf>  graded,  and  the  unplen^ianf' 
nesfl,  if  not  nnsafety,  of  a  frftg:ile  foundation  avoided. 

From  the  bridge  at  Hamburgh,  the  road  riscR  in  n 
distance  of  16  milen,  360  feet,  and  from  thence  to 
Charleston  it  descends  510  feet.  It  has  one  inclined 
plane  3800  feet  long,  with  an  ascent  of  180  feet,  which 
is  overcome  by  the  means  of  stationary  engines.  Th»» 
road  consists  of  a  single  track,  with  occasional  turnouts, 
and  the  only  power  used  is  that  of  locomotive  en  .^incs. 
The  route  from  Hamburgh  to  Charleston  is  pnrfovintd 
in  about  12  hours. 

From  Augusta  a  rail  road  is  also  constructing  to 
Athens,  a  distance  of  1 14  miles.  This  road  will  con- 
nect with  the  one  from  Hamburgh,  by  means  of  n 
bridge  across  the  river,  and  when  completed,  will  form 
a  continuous  line  of  about  250  miles,  from  the  northern 
part  of  Georgia  to  Charleston. 


y    I 


FROM  SAVANNAH  TO  CHARLESTON, 

110  miles. 
Savannah,  the  principal  city  in  the  state  of  Georgia, 
is  located  on  the  south-west  bank  of  the  Savannah  riv- 
er, about  17  mUes  from  the  bar  at  its  mouth.  The  city 
is  built  on  elevated  ground,  and  exhibits  a  beautiful  ap- 
pearance from  the  water ;  its  tall  spires  and  other  public 
buildings,  with  the  groves  of  treet  plait* '^  along  its 
streets,  giving  it  aij  &ir  of  peculia*  ^inc-ci  v<  r;n.  The 
streets  are  wide  and  regularly  laid  out,  and  thej'build- 
ings,  together  with  the  public  squares,  of  which  there 
ate  ten,  exhibit  much  taste  and  elegance.  Of  the  public 
buildings,  the  city  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  hospital, 
theatre,  exchange,  a  public  library,  3  banks,  and  10 


V. 


VnOM  .SAVANNA!!  TO  CUAUl.Kil TON. 


21 


unpTensanf- 
n  avoided. 
(1  rises  in  n 
1  thence  to 
one  inclined 
feet,  whicli 
gine«.  Thf* 
al  turnouts, 
ive  en  .^inci<. 
s  pnrfoiiiitd 

itnicting  to 
id  will  con- 
ncans  oi'  u 
1,  will  form 
be  northern 


)f  Georgia, 
annah  riv- 
The  city 
autiful  ap- 
ther  public 
'  along  its 
;n.  The 
thejbuild- 
hich  there 
the  public 
,  hospital, 
ii,  and  10 


I 


I 

4 


churches.  The  Presbytorian  chui  h  ia  an  elegant  and 
spaciouH  edifice  of  stone.  The  Exchange  is  a  large 
building,  5  stories  high.  The  a(  ideiny,  partly  ot  bf  u  k, 
and  partly  of  stone,  is  180  feet  front,  60  feet  wide,  and 
3  stories  high.  Savannah  is  by  far  the  most  important 
commercial  town  in  Georgia,  and  is  the  great  mart  ol 
ihi'  cotton  planters  for  an  extensive  and  well  settled 
region  of  country.  Its  population  in  1810  was  7,303. 
Steam  boats  ply  regularly  between  Savannah  and 
Charleston,  distance  1 10  miles,  as  follows  : 


Miles. 

Tybee  Sound, 12 

Port  Republican, ....     25 

Beaufort, 10 

South  Edisto, 18 


Miles. 
North  Edisto  Sound, «     1 0 

Light  House, J5 

Charleston  Bar, 3 

Charleston,... 7 


By  land,  the  distance  between  the  two  cities  is  118 


miles,  as  follows  : 

Miles. 
From  Savannah  to 

Beck's  Ferry,  on 

the  Savannah  r. . . .  25 

Fitch's  Echan  road, . .  19 

Coosauhatchie, 4 

Pocotaligo, 6 

Saltketcher  Church,.  7 


MUes. 

Thompson's  Tavern, .  9 

Pompon  P.  Office, ...  11 

Jackson  Borough, ...  3 

Hick's  Tavern, 10 

Green's  Tavern,...,  10 

Ashley  River, 8 

Charleston, 6 


On  this  route,  the  tourist  crosses  the  Savannah  riveVf 
which  is  navigable  for  steam  boats  to  Augusta,  123 
miles,  by  land,  above  Savannah,  having  its  rise  150  miles 
northwest  of  the  former  place  ; 

The  Coosauhatchie  riveVf  which  rises  47  miles  north- 
west of  the  village  of  that  name,  and  falls  into  the  Coo- 
saw  river,  6  miles  south-east  j 


22 


CHARLESTON. 


The  Camhahee  riverj  which  rises  75  miles  north-wcsl 
of  Saltketcher,  and  falls  into  St.  Helena  Sound,  18 
miles  south-east  from  that  place  ; 

The  Edisio  riverj  which  rises  90  miles  north*  west  of 
Jacksonboio*,  and  falls  into  the  Atlantic  ocean  20  miles 
south-east ;  and 

The  Ashley  riveTf  which  rises  about  40  milcw  north- 
west of  Charleston. 

This  route  is  interspersed  with  rice  and  cotton  plan- 
tations, and  several  handsome  country  seats  of  the  op- 
ulent owners  of  the  soil.  In  the  spring,  the  whole  face 
of  the  country  assumes  a  richness  of  verdure  highly 
picturesque  and  romantic ;  which,  however,  becomes 
dried  and  withered  during  the  burning  heat  of  a  sum- 
mer's sun. 

CHARLESTON, 

The  metropolis  of  South  Carolina,  ie  alike  distin- 
guished for  the  opulence  and  hospitality  of  its  inhabi- 
tants. On  entering  the  city  from  the  bay,  an  interest- 
ing prospect  is  presented.  The  glittering  spires  of  its 
public  edifices  are  well  calculated  to  give  animation  to 
the  scene.  Some  of  its  streets  are  extremely  beautiful, 
and  many  of  the  houses  are  truly  elegant.  Orange 
trees,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  laden  with  fruit, 
and  peach  trees  clothed  with  blossoms,  meet  the  eye  of 
the  traveller,  and  united  with  the  climate  of  the  coun- 
try at  that  time,  render  Charleston  one  of  the  moHt  at- 
tractive cities  in  the  union.  The  society  is  rclinud,  in- 
telligent, frank  and  affable. 

The  city  was  founded  and  made  the  scat  of  govern- 
ment of  the  state  in  1680,     It  stands  on  a  dead  level 


nortli-wcst 
Suund,  18 

)rth-wc8t  of 
an  20  miles 

lilcff  north- 

!otton  plan- 
s  of  tho  op- 
wholc  fucc 
luro  highly 
r,  becomes 
of  a  sum- 


SULLIVAN^S  ISLANb. 


2S 


iko  dlHtin- 
its  inhabi- 
n  intercst- 
)ircs  of  its 
imation  to 
beautiful, 
Orange 
mill  fruit, 
the  eye  of 
tiie  coun- 
!  moHt  at- 
3iined,  in< 

f  pOVCA't)' 

cad  level 


with  the  sea,  two  noble  rivers,  the  Ashley  and  the 
Cooper,  enclosing  it  on  a  wide  peninsula,  called  the 
Neck.  Most  of  the  houses  contain  a  piazza,  extending 
from  the  ground  to  the  top,  giving  to  the  rooms  in  each 
story  a  shady  open  walk.  Except  in  the  commercial 
parts  of  the  town,  the  houses,  which  are  mostly  paint- 
ed white,  are  generally  surrounded  with  gardens,  trees 
and  shrubbery,  giving  to  them  a  peculiarly  romantic 
and  rich  appearance. 

The  most  celebrated  edifices  of  this  city,  are  the  Or" 
PHAN  Asylum  and  the  Circular  Church.  The  for- 
mer is  one  of  the  best  institutions  of  the  kind  in  the 
United  States.  It  maintains  and  educates  130  orphan 
children,  and  is  highly  honorable  to  the  characteristic 
humanity  and  benevolence  of  the  place,  and  a  happy 
illustration  of  the  tone  of  public  feeling.  The  other 
public  buildings  are  10  or  12  in  number,  exclusive  of 
about  20  churches.  The  city  library  is  one  of  the  best 
in  the  union,  and  contains  neanly  14,000  volumes. 

Though  this  city  has  been  occasionally  visited  with 
yellow  fever  and  the  cholera,  it  is  considered  more 
healthy  for  acclimated  inhabitants  than  the  surround - 
mg  country.  The  planters  from  the  low  country,  and 
many  opulent  strangers  from  the  West  Indies,  come 
here  to  spend  the  sickly  months,  and  to  enjoy  the  ele- 
gant and  enlightened  society  with  which  the  city 
abounds. 

The  rail  road  from  this  place  to  Hamburgh  has 
already  been  noticed  at  p.  19. 

Sullivan's  Island,  which  lays  at  the  distance  of  7 
miles  from  the  city,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  is  a 

b2 


SULLIVAN'S  ISLAND. 


spot  consecrated  as  the  theatre  of  important  events 
during  the  revolution.  On  this  island  is  Fort  Moul- 
TRIE,  rendered  glorious  by  the  unyielding  desperation 
with  which  it  sustained  the  attack  of  the  British  fleet 
in  the  war  of  our  independence.  The  fleet  consisted 
of  about  flftj  sail ;  and  on  the  flrst  annunciation  of  its 
approach,  lay  within  six  leagues  of  the  island.  It  was 
a  time  of  awful  and  anxious  suspense  to  the  garrison  in 
the  fort,  and  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  city.  The  public 
mind  had  become  deeply  impressed  with  ideas  of  Eng- 
lish valor ;  and  diffident  of  its  own  power,  looked  with 
painful  anxiety  towards  the  issue  of  the  coming  contest. 

About  this  period  a  proclamation  reached  the  shore, 
under  the  sanction  of  a  flag,  in  which  the  British  com- 
mander. Sir  Henry  Clinton,  held  out  the  promise  of 
pardon  to  all  who  would  resign  their  arms  and  co-ope- 
rate in  the  re-establishment  of  loyalty.  But  the  royal 
proposition  met  with  the  rejection  which  it  deserved. 
The  militia  of  the  adjacent  country  crowded  the  streets 
of  Charleston ;  the  citizens  threw  down  their  imple- 
ments of  industry  and  grasped  their  arms  in  defence  of 
their  native  city.  On  the  28lh  of  June,  1776,  Fort 
Moultrie  was  attacked  by  about  ten  ships,  frigates  and 
sloops,  and  was  defended  in  a  manner  that  would  have 
honored  the  heroic  veterans  of  Greece  or  Rome. 

During  this  engagement,  the  inhabitants  stood  at 
their  respective  posts,  prepared  to  meet  the  advancing 
foe.  They  had  determined  to  grapple  with  the  enemy 
as  he  landed,  and  surrender  their  liberty  only  with  their 
lives.  But  so  manfully  did  the  garrison  withstand  the 
conflict,  that  the  fleet  was  compelled  to  withdraw,  leav- 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK. 


25 


ing  the  inhabitants  in  the  unmolested  enjoyment  of 
their  rights. 

The  influence  of  this  expedition  was  most  auspicious 
to  the  cause  of  American  liberty.  It  strengthened  the 
trembling  hopes  and  dispersed  the  fears  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. They  had  seen  the  result  of  this  attempt,  and 
now  felt  the  triumphant  assurance  that  the  sacred 
cause  in  which  they  had  enlisted  would  eventually  suc- 
ceed. 

The  communication  between  Charleston  and  New- 
York  is  rendered  frequent  by  convenient  and  commo- 
dious steam  and  other  packets  that  ply  from  one  place 
to  the  other.  A  journey  by  land,  until  reaching  Nor- 
folk, is  tedious  and  uninteresting ;  the  public  inns,  ex- 
cept in  the  large  towns,  are  generally  poor,  and  a 
voyage  by  water  is  the  uniform  choice  of  the  fashionable 
and  genteel  portion  of  the  community. 

The  distance  by  water  from  Charleston  to  New- 
York  is  670  miles,  and  the  intermediate  distances  are 
as  follows : 


Miles. 

OfTCapeFear, 120 

Cape  Look  Out, . .  75 
Gape  Hatteras, ...  78 
Capes  of  Virginia,  140 
Cape  May, 120 


Miles, 
Off  Barnegat  Inlet,..     70 

ThcBar, 45 

Sandy  Hook, 3 

The  Narrows, 11 

New.  York, 8 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK, 

by  the  coast, 
Is  419  miles,  and  the  intermediate  distances  are  as 
follows : 


S6 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK. 


By  land. 

Greenwich, 4 

Wapetan  Church,..,  15 

Tweeden  Cottons, ...  17 

Santee  R.,  S.  Branch,  10 

N.  Branch,  2 

Georgetown, 14 

On  the  Sands, 20 

VareneSj.N.  C, 13 

Smithville, 26 

Brunswick, 12 

Wilmington, 18 

Hermitage, 6 

S.  Washington 24 

lUiode's, 24 


Miles^. 

Trenton, 11 

Newbern, 20 

Washington, 35 

Plymouth,. 35 

Mouth  of  Roanoke  R.  8 

By  steam  boat. 
Wade's  Point,  Albe- 
marle Sound, 45 

Elizabeth  City, 17 

By  land. 

Pasquotank  River,..  12 

N.  Carolina  state  line,  10 

Portsmouth, 20 

Norfolk, 1 


The  SanteCf  passed  on  this  route,  is  the'principal  river 
in  South  Carolina.  It  is  formed  by  a  union  of  the 
Congaree  and  Wateree  about  25  miles  south-east  of 
Columbia,  and  falls  into  the  ocean  by  two  mouths 
about  12  miles  south-east  from  where  it  is  crossed.  A 
canal  22  miles  long,  connects  the  Santee  with  Cooper 
river,  through  which  large  quantities  of  produce  are 
annually  conveyed  to  Charleston. 

Georgetown,  the  capital  of  the  district  of  that  name, 
is  located  on  Winyaw  bay,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pedee 
river,  and  13  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  betweon  2  and  3000  inhabitants,  and  is  a 
place  of  very  considerable  trade. 


Wilmington,  N.  C.  is  the  capital  of  New-Hanover 
county.  It  is  situated  on  the  north-east  side  of  Cape 
Fear  river,  just  below  a  union  of  its  branches,  to  which 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK. 


97 


place  the  river  is  navigable  for  vessels.  The  town  con- 
tains a  court  house,  jail,  academy,  2  banks,  2  churches, 
and  between  2  and  3000  inhabitants  ;  and  is  the  great- 
est shipping  port  in  the  state.  It  was  visited  by  a  con- 
flagration in  IS  19,  by  which  200  buildings,  valued  at 
$1,00,000,  were  destroyed  ;  and  by  another  in  1828,  in 
which  50  buildings  were  burned,  valued  at  $130,000. 

Newbern  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Neuse  riv- 
er, 30  miles  from  Pamlico  Sound.  It  is  the  largest 
town  in  North  Carolina,  containing  a  population  of 
nearly  4000  inhabitants.  There  are  in  this  place  a 
court  house,  jail,  theatre,  2  banks  and  3  churches. 


i 


"Washington  is  located  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Pamlico  river,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  1200 
inhabitants. 


Plymouth,  the  capital  of  Washington  county,  is 
situate  on  the  north  side  of  the  Roanoke  river,  and  5 
miles  from  Albemarle  Sound. 

The  Roanoke  river  rises  in  the  state  of  Virginia,  pur- 
suing a  crooked  course  to  Albemarle  Sound,  into  which 
it  empties  by  several  channels,  230  miles  from  its 
source.  It  is  navigable  about  30  miles  for  vessels  of 
considerable  burthen,  and  for  boats,  70  miles.  The 
banks  are  fertile  and  well  settled. 


Albemarle  Sound  is  in  the  north-east  part  of  North 
Carolina,  on  the  coast.  It  extends  from  east  to  west 
62  miles,  and  is  from  4  to  15  miles  wide.    It  is  con- 


28 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORfOLW. 


nected  with  Pamlico  Sound  by  several  narrow  inlets, 
and  with  the  Chesapeake  Bay  by  a  canal  through  the 
Dismal  Swamp. 

A  steam  boat  is  taken  at  the  mouth  of  the  Roanoke 
across  the  Albemarle  Sound  to 


Elizabeth  Citt,  the  capital  of  Pasquotank  county, 
N.  C.  The  town  is  located  on  the  bank  of  the  Pas- 
quotank river,  which  has  its  source  in  the  Dismal 
Swamp.  It  contains  a  courthouse,  jail  and  4  churches. 
From  Elizabeth  City  the  road  to  Norfolk  lies  on  the 
bank  of  the  canal,  23  miles  long,  cut  through  the 

Dismal  Swamp.  This  swamp  is  a  tract  of  marshy 
land,  generally  covered  with  pine,  juniper  and  cypress 
trees.  It  is  30  miles  long  from  north  to  south,  and  10 
broad.  In  the  centre  is  Drummond's  Pond,  15  miles  in 
circumference. 

The  Canaty  through  this  swamp,  proves  of  immense 
advantage  to  the  eastern  section  of  North  Carolina. 
Formerly  their  coasting  trade  was  through  the  Ockra- 
cock  inlet,  by  the  tedious,  hazardous  and  expensive  sea 
route ;  but  the  canal  forms  an  easy,  safe  and  cheap 
means  of  conveyance,  and  ofTords  more  extensive 
markets.  Near  the  centre  of  its  extreme  points  is  the 
junction  of  what  is  called  the  North  West  Canal,  which 
is  6  miles  long,  and  connects  North  West  River  (which 
empties  into  Currituck  Sound  in  North  Carolina)  with 
the  main  canal,  opening  an  avenue  to  market  for  the 
vast  stores  of  timber  in  that  section  suitable  for  naval 
purposes,  besides  the  various  other  products  of  the 
country.    On  the  main  canal,  the  basin  at  Deep  Creek 


KORFOLIC. 


29 


the  Roanoke 


is  a  bcautifursheet  of  water,  half  a  mile  long,  and  15 
feet  above  tide  water.  The  lockage  is  40  feet ;  and  the 
locks,  which  are  stone,  are  of  the  best  workmanship. 

Portsmouth  is  pleasantly  located  on  the  south  west 
side  of  Elizabeth  river,  opposite  Norfolk.  It  contains  a 
court  house,  jail,  4  churches,  and  between  2  and  3000 
inhabitants. 

The  Portsmouth  and  Roanoke  rail  road  commences 
at  this  place,  and  passes  through  Suffolk  in  a  westerly 
direction  until  it  crosses  the  Petersburgh  rail  road. 
From  thence  it  is  to  extend  to  the  Roanoke  river,  oppo- 
site Weldon  in  North  Carolina,  77  miles  from  Ports- 
mouth. 


Norfolk,  the  commercial  capital  of  Virginia,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  east  side  of  Elizabeth  river,  immediately 
below  the  junction  of  its  two  main  branches,  and  eight 
miles  above  Hampton  roads,  and  had  a  population,  in 
1830,  of  9,800.  The  town  lies  low,  and  is  in  some  pla- 
ces marshy,  though  the  principal  streets  are  well  paved. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  theatre,  3  banks,  an 
academy,  marine  hospital,  atheneum,  and  6  churches. 
The  harbor,  which  is  capacious  and  safe,  is  defended  by 
several  forts.  One  is  on  Craney  Island,  near  the  mouth 
of  Elizabeth  river.  There  are  also  fortifications  at 
Hampton  roads ;  the  principal  of  which.  Fort  Calhoun, 
is  not  yet  completed. 

The  J^avy  Yard  at  Gosporty  on  the  bank  of  the  Eliza- 
beth river,  nearly  opposite  Norfolk,  is  deserving  the 
attention  of  strangers.  A  superb  dock  has  been  con- 
structed at  this  place,  similar  to  that  at  Charlestown, 


30 


FROM  NORFOLK  TO  WASHINGTON. 


near  Boston.  The  length  of  the  bottom,  from  the  inner 
or  foremost  block,  to  that  which  is  nearest  the  gates,  is 
206  feet,  besides  50  feet  of  spare  room — sufficient  to 
hold  a  small  vessel.  The  width  of  the  dock,  at  the  top, 
is  86  feet.  As  the  tide  rises  and  falls  but  3  or  4  feet, 
the  water  is  pumped  out,  when  necessary,  by  steam 
engines. 

From  Norfolk  to  Washington  city  or  Baltimore,  the 
routes  are  usually  performed  by  steam  boats.  The  in- 
termediate distances  are  as  follows : 


FROM  NORFOLK  TO  WASHINGTON, 


195  miles,'" 


Miles, 
Mouth  of  Elizabeth 

river.... 9 

Mouth  of  James  river,  6 
Mouth  of  York  river, 

Old  Point  Comfort,  20 

New  Point  Comfort,  10 

Rappahannock  river,  15 


Miles. 
Off  Outlet  St.  Mary's 

river, 42 

Off  Port  Tobacco, ...  38 
Mouth   of    Potomac 

river,    15 

Mount  Vernon, 25 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington,  • 6 


*  The  route  is  down  the  Elizabeth  river  till  it  enters 
the  Chesapeake  Bay — thence  up  the  bay  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Potomac,  which  is  entered,  the  boat  proceeding 
up  the  river,  and  passing  Mount  Vernon  and  Alexan- 
dria, noticed  at  pages  39, 40. 


*<•;»• 


--5;i'g»r«j»TV-:J-/'^'--l-  ^'--  ^      1  ■T7~' 


.T-jFj.  ----. -/■--.-    ~T- 


FROM  NORFOLK  TO  RICHMOND. 


31 


FROM  NORFOLK  TO  BALTIMORE. 

191  miles. 
Miles. 


To  the  mouth  of  the 
Rappahannock,  as 
m  the  preceding  ta- 

Smith's  Point 25 

Outlet  of  Potomac,. .  10 
Outlet  of  Pautuxent 
river, 18 


Miles, 

Cone  Point, 5 

Sharp's  Island,. .... .   15 

Three  Sisters, 16 

Annapolis, 10 

Sandy  Point, 6 

Mouth  of  the  Pataps- 

co  river, 11 

Baltimore,* 15 


The  Chesapeake  Bat,  the  principal  water  commu- 
nication on  the  foregoing  routes,  stretches  in  a  direc- 
tion nearly  north  from  the  mouth  of  James  river,  or 
Lynhaven  Bay,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Susquehannah  riv- 
er, near  the  north  line  of  Maryland.  It  is  180  miles 
long,  and  varies  from  10  to  25  miles  in  breadth,  divid- 
ing the  states  of  Virginia  and  Maryland  into  two  parts, 
called  the  eastern  and  western  shores.  It  has  numer- 
ous commodious  harbors,  and  affords  a  safe  naviga- 
tion. Among  the  waters  which  flow  into  it,  (com- 
mencing north,)  are  the  Susquehannah,  Potomac,  Rap- 
pahannock, York  and  James  rivers.  It  has  been  esti- 
mated that  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  including  its  minor 
bays  and  inlets,  contains  an  aggregate  of  3600  square 
miles. 

FROM    NORFOLK   TO   RICHMOND, 

The  usual  route  is  by  water  up  the  James  river ;  on 
which  steam-boats  are  constantly  plying  between  the 


*  See  page  52. 


32 


JAMESTOWN. 


two  places.   We,  however,  give  the  routcB  by  land  and 
water,  with  the  intermediate  distances  : 


By  water — 122  miles. 
Miles. 
Mouth  of  Elizabeth  r.    9 
Day's  Point,...  o....   10 

Hog  Island, 16 

Swan's  Point, 9 

Chickahomanyr.....     4 

Fort  Powhatan 21 

Eppcs' Island, 17 

Chesterfield, 23 

Richmond, 13 


By  land — 110  miles. 

Miles* 
Mouth  of  Elizabeth  r.    9 
Cross  Hampton  Roads 

to  Hampton, 8 

Half-way  House, ....  11 

York, 10 

Williamsburgh, 12 

Ghiswell,...., 14 

Cumberland, 16 

Chickahomany  river,.  15 
Richmond, 14 


Jamestown,  24  miles  from  Norfolk,  on  the  James  riv- 
er, was  founded  in  1608,  and  was  the  first  English  settle- 
ment in  the  U.  States.  The  site  is  a  very  beautiful  one, 
and  the  settlement  itself  must  ^i?ve  been  but  a  few  steps 
from  the  river.  On  each  side  there  is  a  delightful  and 
variegated  succession  of  woodlands,  meadows,  pas- 
tures, and  green  fields  ;  in  front  appears  the  broad  ex- 
panse of  James  river,  with  its  multitude  of  white,  glid- 
ing sails.  The  opposite  hills  are  picturesque :  some 
are  entirely  covered  with  woods ;  others,  partly  clear- 
ed, presenting,  in  the  proper  season,  patches  of  white 
wavy  com.  To  increase  the  richness  of  this  scenery, 
here  and  there  are  distinguished  the  old  and  elegant 
mansions  of  the  Virginia  planters,  like  points  of  beauty 
in  a  fine  picture. 

No  vestige  of  Jamestown  is  now  to  be  seen,  except 
the  ruins  of  a  church  steeple,  about  30  feet  high,  and 
fringed  to  its  summit  with  running  ivy.    Near  by  is  a 


; 


JAMESTOWM. 


38 


burying  ground  with  its  venerable  totnbHtonos,  and 
spotted  with  dark  green  shrubbery  and  melancholy 
flowers.  It  looks  like  a  lonely,  unfroquented  place, 
and  there  is  something  deeply  interesting  in  contem- 
plating these  vestiges  of  an  age  gone  by. 

In  this  scene  of  silence  and  solitude,  the  rude  forefa- 
thers of  the  hamlet  have,  for  ages,  rested.  Nothing  at 
this  day  remains  but  the  land  they  cultivated,  and  the 
graves  in  which  they  repose  ;  but  the  places  are  well 
known,  and  with  increasing  years  will  grow  more  ven- 
erable and  illustrious. 

The  celebrated  Pocahontas  (daughter  of  the  Indian 
chief  Powhatan)  was  the  tutelary  guardian  of  this  set- 
tlement ;  and  some  of  her  descendants  are  now  livin|f 
in  Virginia.  Among  the  most  distinguished  was  the 
late  John  Randolph.  His  descent  is  thus  given  in  a 
Virginia  paper  : 

"  Pocahontas  was  aiterwards  in  London,  in  compa- 
ny with  her  husband,  whose  name  was  Rolf,  an  Eng- 
lishman by  birth.  She  was  presented  to  the  King  and 
Clueen,  by  Lady  Delaware  and  her  husband.  She  was 
present  at  several  masquerades  and  assemblies,  all 
which  sights  gave  her  great  gratification.  Soon  after- 
wards, having  embarked  on  board  the  ship  George, 
from  London,  for  Virginia,  she  fell  sick  and  died  at 
Gravesend. 

"  Her  young  child,  Thomas  Rolf,  was  left  at  Plym- 
outh, under  the  care  of  Sir  Thomas  Stukely,  who  de- 
sired to  keep  it.  Pocahontas  died  in  1617,  aged  23. 
Thomas  Rolf,  her  son,  afterwards  became  a  citizen  of 
Virginia.  He  left  at  his  death  a  daughter ;  this  daugh- 
ter married  Col.  Robert  Boiling,  by  whom  she  left  an 


34 


RICHMOND. 


only  son  and  five  daugiitern,  who  were  mHrried  renpec- 
tively  to  Col.  Richard  Johnson,  Col.  John  Flerainj?, 
Doct.  William  Gray,  Mr.  Thunius  Eldridge,  and  Mr. 
James  Murray. 

"Tlio  nohio  blood  of  Pocahontas  flows  in  many 
veins  ;  and  tho  late  Orator  of  Kounoke,  John  Randolph, 
used  to  claim  a  descent  from  tho  daughter  of  Pow- 
hatan.'* 

WiLLiAMSBURCn,  8  milcs  from  J'amestown,  is  situated 
between  York  and  James  rivers,  and  was  formerly  the 
metropolis  of  the  state.  Its  streets  aro  regularly  laid 
out,  and  many  of  the  buildin^js  are  handsome.  Wil- 
liam and  Mary's  College,  located  in  this  place,  was 
founded  in  1691,  and  was  liberally  endowed  at  that 
time  by  tho  reigning  king  and  queen  of  England.  It 
has  a  library  of  between  3  and  4000  volumes,  and  a 
valuable  philosophical  apparatus. 

Richmond,  the  capital  of  Virginia,  is  siuated  on  the 
north  bank  of  James  river,  directly  a(  its  lower  falls,  at 
the  head  of  tide  water,  and  150  miles  from  its  mouth. 
The  town  rises  in  an  acclivity  from  the  water,  and  pre> 
sents  a  beautiful  and  higly  picturesque  appearance. 
A  part  of  the  town,  on  what  is  called  Shockoe  hill, 
overlooks  the  lower  part ;  and  from  tho  capitol,  which 
is  on  the  greatest  eminence,  a  most  delightful  prospect 
is  had  of  the  river  and  adjacent  country.  Besides  tho 
capitol,  which  is  a  handsome  edifice,  the  city  contains 
an  elegant  court  house,  a  penitentiary,  {which  cost 
$135,000,)  an  alms  house,  2  markets,  a  museum,  an 
academy  of  fine  arts,  a  female  orphan  asylum,  3  banks, 
and  S  churches  ;  one  of  which,  built  on  the  ruins  of  the 


MUNTICELLO. 


35 


theatre  in  tho  ronflnpration  of  which  90  citizens  perish- 
cH,  is  very  b(  autiful.  At  the  Virginia  armory,  which  is 
erected  here,  are  manufactured  between  4  and  5000 
muAkets  and  rifles  annually.  The  population  of  the 
city  in  1830,  was  16,085. 

Manchester,  directly  opposite,  is  connected  with 
Richmond  by  two  substantial  bridges,  and  is  a  flour- 
ishing place. 

Among  the  many  objects  of  attraction  in  Virginia, 
are  Monticello,  tho  former  residence  of  cx-;^resident 
Jefferson,  the  Warm  and  Hot  Springs,  the  Natural 
Bridge,  and  the  Berkley  Springs. 

From  Richmond  to  JVlonticello,  the  distance  is  80  miles, 
in  a  north-westerly  direction  ;  the  road  passing  Gooch- 
land county  line,  distant  20  miles  ;  Fluvanna  county 
line,  33 ;  Gordonville,  12  ;   Milton,  on  the  Rivanna 


river,  12 ; 


Monticello,  3. 


MoNTicEi.LO  was  much  resorted  to  during  the  life- 
time of  its  sage  and  philosopher ;  and  since  his  de- 
cease, the  consecrated  spot  of  his  interment  is  a  place 
of  frequent  visitation.  It  is  thus  described  by  a  late 
traveller : 

"  I  ascended  tho  winding  road  which  leads  from 
Charlottesville  to  Monticello.  The  path  leads  a  circuit- 
ous ascent  of  about  two  miles  up  the  miniature  moun- 
tain, on  which  stand  tho  mansion,  the  farm,  and  the 
grave  of  Jefferson.  On  entering  the  gate  which  opens 
into  the  enclosure,  numerous  paths  diverge  in  various 
directions,  winding  through  beautiful  groves  to  the 
c3 


rn^i 


[f-'.-' . 


36 


MONTICELLO. 


summit  of  the  hill.  From  the  peak  on  which  thf) 
house  stands,  a  grand  and  nearly  illuminated  view 
opens,  of  the  thickly  wooded  hills  and  fertile  vallicH, 
which  stretch  out  on  either  side.  The  University,  with 
Its  dome,  porticoes  and  colonnades,  looks  like  a  fairy  city 
in  the  plain ;  Charlottesville  seems  to  be  directly  beneath. 
No  spot  can  be  imagined  as  combining  greater  advan- 
tages of  grandeur,  healthfulness  and  seclusion.  The 
house  is  noble  in  its  appearance ;  two  large  columns 
support  a  portico,  which  extends  from  the  wings,  and 
into  it  the  front  door  opens.  The  apartments  are  neat- 
ly furnished  and  embellished  with  statues,  busts,  por- 
traits and  natural  curiosities.  The  grounds  and  out- 
houses have  been  neglected ;  Mr.  Jefferson's  attention 
being  absorbed  from  such  personal  concerns,  by  the 
cares  attendant  on  the  superintendence  of  the  Universi- 
ty, which,  when  in  health,  he  visited  daily  since  its 
erection  commenced. 

"  At  a  short  distance  behind  the  mansion,  in  a  quiet, 
shaded  spot,  the  visitor  sees  a  square  enclosure,  sur- 
rounded by  a  low  unmortared  stone  wall,  which  ho  en- 
ters by  a  neat  wooden  gate.  This  is  tho  family  burial 
ground,  containing  10  or  15  graves,  none  of  them 
marked  by  epitaphs,  and  only  a  (c.w  distinguished  by 
any  memorial.  On  one  side  of  this  simple  cemetery,  is 
the  resting  place  of  the  Patriot  and  Philosopher.  When 
I  saw  it,  the  vault  was  just  arched,  and  in  readiness  for 
the  plain  stone  which  ia  to  cover  it.  May  it  ever  con- 
tinuo  like  Washington's,  without  any  adventitious  at- 
tractions or  conspicuousness  ;  for,  when  we  or  our  pos- 
terity need  any  other  memento  of  our  debt  of  honor  to 
tiiose  numts,  than  their  simple  inscription  on  paper, 


NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


37 


wood  or  stone,  gorgeous  tomba  would  be  a  mockery  to 
their  memories.  When  gratitude  shall  cease  to  con- 
secrate thfir  remembrance  in  the  hearts  of  our  citi- 
zens, no  cenotaph  will  inspire  the  reverence  we  owe  to 
them." 

From  Monticello  to  the  Warm  Springs  is  91  miles,  in 
a  westerly  direction,  passing  through  Charlottesville  2 
miles,  Rockfish  Gap  24,  Waynesboro'  2,  Staunton  12, 
Cloverdaie  28,  Green  Valley  10 ;  from  whence  to  the 
Warm  Springs  is  13  miles.  The  temperature  of  these 
springs  is  about  96®,  and  sufficient  water  issues  from 
them  to  turn  a  mill.  They  are  used  for  bathing,  and 
are  esteemed  for  rheumatic  complaints. 

The  Bath  or  Hot  Spring  is  5  miles  farther.  The 
stream  is  small ;  but  the  temperature  is  much  greater 
than  that  of  the  Warm  Spring,  being  112®. 

These  springs  flow  into  the  Jackson,  a  source  of  the 
James  river. 


The  Natural  Bridge  is  150  miles  west  of  Rich- 
mond, and  by  diverging  to  the  left,  without  visiting 
Monticello,  may  be  taken  in  the  route  to  the  Warm 
Springs.  This  bridge  is  over  Cedar  creek,  in  Rock- 
bridge county,  12  miles  south  west  of  Lexington,  and 
js  justly  considered  one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosi- 
ties in  the  vvorl  i.  The  river  at  this  place  runs  through 
a  chasm  in  a  hill.  The  chasm  is^O  feet  wide  at  the  top, 
200  feet  deep,  and  the  sides  almost  perpendicular.  The 
bridge  is  formed  by  a  huge  rock  thrown  completely 
across  this  chasm  at  the  top.    The  rock  forming  the 


38 


FROM  RICHMOND  TO  WASHINGTON  CITT. 


bridge  is  60  feet  broad  in  the  middle,  and  is  covered 
with  earth  and  trees.  It  forms  a  sublime  spectacle 
when  examined  from  the  margin  of  the  river  beneath.'^ 


PROM   RICHMOND  TO  WASHINGTON  CITY, 

112  miles. 
From  Richmond  a  rail  road  is  taken  to  Fredericks- 
burgh,  58  miles  distant ;  and  from  thence  a  steam-boat 
to  Washington  city,  54  miles  farther.    The  interme- 
diate distances  are  as  follows  : 


By  rail  road. 

J^Ues. 
From  Richmond  to  Pa- 
!    "        munkey  river,   25 

Mattapony  river,  10 


« 


it 
(I 


By  steam-hoat. 

Miles. 
JVIouth  of  Potomac 

creek, , 9 

Mount  Vernon, 30 

Caroline  County,  1 3  I  Alexandria, 9 

Fredericksburgh,  10  |  Washington  city, .....  6 


Fredericksburgh  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Rappahannock  river,  110  miles  from  its  outlet  into 
the  Chesapeake  Bay.    It  contains  a  court-house,  jail, 

*  A  student  of  one  of  the  Virginia  colleges,  a  few 
years  since,  attempted  the  daring  effort  of  climbin^  up 
one  of  the  sides  of  this  precipice.  He  had  ascended  50 
or  60  feet  before  he  was  aware  of  the  extreme  hazard 
of  the  undertaking.  It  was  then  too  late  to  retreat,  and 
to  progress  seemed  certain  destruction.  He,  however, 
continued  ascending  from  one  crevice  to  another,  hold- 
ing on  the  occasional  protuberances  of  the  rock,  until 
he  reached  the  top.  But  so  arduous  was  the  labor, 
that  his  hands  and  limbs  were  severely  lacerated,  and 
such  was  the  effect  on  his  mind  of  the  perils  and  dan- 
gers encountered,  that  he  became  partially  deranged, 
and  never  fully  recovered  the  possession  of  his  mental 
faculties. 


MOUNT  VERNO?{. 


39 


academy,  2  banks,  4  churches,  and  about  500  dwelling 
houses ;  and  being  near  the  head  of  navigation  and 
surrounded  by  a  fertile  country,  it  enjoys  an  extensive 
and  advantageous  trade. 

The  first  object  of  immediate  interest,  on  ascending 
the  Potomac,  is 


Mount  Vernon,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  39 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Potomac  creek.  To  this 
sacred  spot  the  mind  of  every  American  recurs  with  the 
most  enthusiastic  devotion.  He  looks  upon  it  as  con- 
secrated ground.  Here  the  immortal  Washington,  af- 
ter having  conducted  the  American  armies  forth  to  vic- 
tory and  independence,  retired  to  enjoy  the  rich  reward 
of  his  services  in  the  warm  hearted  gratitude  of  his 
countrymen,  and  in  the  peaceful  seclusion  of  pri- 
vate life. 

This  place,  till  within  a  few  years,  was  the  residence 
of  Judge  Washington,  the  nephew  of  the  General ; 
but  after  his  decease  in  1S29,  the  estate  descended  to 
a  nephew  of  the  Judge,  John  Adams  Washington,  who 
died  in  1832  ;  since  which  the  estate  has  remained  in 
the  possession  of  the  widow  and  children  of  the  latter. 
The  road  to  it  is  almost  uninhabited,  and  difficult  to 
trace.  The  house  stands  on  an  eminence,  embracing 
a  delightful  view  of  the  Potomac,  with  a  rich  and  beau- 
tiful lawn  extending  in  front  to  the  river. 

The  Tomb  of  Washington  is  visited  as  an  interest- 
ing object  of  contemplation.  The  Old  Tomb,  so  called, 
m  which  the  remains  were  originally  interred,  is  fast 
going  to  decay  ;  but  the  nev/  tomb,  more  remote  from 
the  river,  the  construction  of  which  was  commenced  by 


■•■T-' 


40 


ALEXANDRIA. 


the  General  previous  to  his  decease,  and  into  which 
his  remains  were  removed  in  1830,  is  of  solid  and  en- 
during materials.  Here  slumber  in  peaceful  silence 
the  ashes  of  the  great  and  patriotic  Father  of  Liberty. 
No  monument  has  yet  been  erected  to  his  memory ; 
and  the  only  inscription  on  the  tomb  is  the  following  : 
*'  I  am  the  resurrection  and  the  life." 

Alexandria,  an  incorporated  city,  9  miles  farther, 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  place  of  extensive 
business  and  of  fashionable  resort  during  the  sittings 
of  congress.  It  contains  a  couvt  house,  6  churches  and 
a  theological  seminary. 

The  Museum  at  this  place,  among  other  things,  con- 
tains an  elegant  satin  robe,  scarlet  on  one  side  and  white 
on  the  other,  in  which  Gen.  Washington  was  baptized ; 
apenknifCf  with  a  pearl  handle,  given  to  him  by  his 
mother  when  he  was  in  his  twelfth  year,  and  which  he 
kept  fifty-six  years ;  a  pearl  button,  from  the  coat  he 
wore  at  his  first  inauguration  as  President  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  in  the  old  City  Hall,  New- York ;  o  black 
glwCf  worn  by  him  while  in  mourning  for  his  mother ; 
port  of  the  last  stick  of  sealing  loax  which  housed  ;  the 
original  of  the  last  letter  written  by  him,  being  a  polite 
apology,  in  behalf  of  himself  and  Mrs.  Washington,  for 
declining  an  invitation  to  a  ball  at  Alexandria ;  it  is 
penned  with  singular  neatness,  accuracy  and  precision, 
and  contains  this  expression  :  "  Alas  !  our  dancing 
days  are  over  ;"  a  beautiful  masonic  apron^  with  the  belt 
of  scarlet  satin  and  the  white  kid  gloves  worn  by  him 
the  last  time  he  shared  in  the  social  ceremonies  of  the 
"  mystic  tie." 


WASHINGTON  CITT. 


41 


md  into  which 
solid  and  en- 
saccful  silence 
ler  of  Liberty. 
I  his  memory  ; 
the  following : 


'  miles  farther, 
e  of  extensive 
[)g  the  sittings 
6  churches  and 

icr  things,  con- 
side  and  white 
I  was  baptized ; 
to  him  by  his 

and  which  he 
the  coat  he 
ent  of  the  Uni- 
York ;  a  black 
>r  his  mother ; 

ho  used ;  the 

being  a  polite 
'^ashington,  for 

3xandria ;  it  is 

and  precision, 
our  dancing 

,  with  the  belt 
worn  by  him 

^monies  of  the 


The  country  between  this  city  and  the  capital  is  but 
thinly  inhabited,  and  the  soil  poor  and  unproductive  ; 
but  the  road  is  good,  and  a  ride  to  Alexandria  consti- 
tutes one  of  the  amusements  of  a  winter  at  Wash- 
ington. 

WASHINGTON   CITY 

Is  6  miles  from  Alexandria.  As  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment of  the  Union,  it  is  a  place  of  much  resort  during 
the  session  of  congress  in  the  winter ;  but  is  mostly  de- 
serted by  strangers  in  the  summer.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Maryland  side  of  the  Potomac,  and  on  a  point  of  land 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Eastern  Branch.  The 
District  of  Columbia  in  which  the  city  is  located,  was 
ceded  to  the  United  States  by  Maryland  and  Virginia 
in  1790,  and  in  1800  it  became  the  seat  of  the  gevziaX 
government  This  District  is  about  10  miles  square, 
lying  on  both  sides  of  the  Potomac,  and  is  under  the 
immediate  direction  of  congress. 

The  original  plan  of  Washington  when  ''ompleted, 
its  public  edifices,  and  the  elegance  of  its  siti  ition,  will 
render  it  one  of  the  most  splendid  cities  in  the  world. 

The  Capitol  stands  on  a  high  and  lofty  eminence, 
and  commands  a  delightful  prospect  of  the  Pennsylva- 
nia Avenue,  the  President's  House,  Georgetown  and 
the  Potomac,  the  General  Post  Office,  the  Navy  Yard, 
Greenleaf 's  Point,  the  bridge  on  the  river,  and  the  road 
to  Alexandria  and  Mount  Vernon.  The  capitol  is  built 
of  white  free  stone,  has  two  wings,  and  is  a  very  mag- 
nificent edifice.  - 

The  exterior  exhibits  a  rusticated  basement,  of  the 
height  of  the  first  story ;  the  two  other  stories  are  com- 


■■[^"""■"iT"":  'TV''^*.'^;*";'"''' 


42 


WABHINftTON  CITY. 


prised  in  a  Corinthian  elevation  of  pilasters  and  col- 
umns— the  columns  30  feet  in  height,  from  a  noble  ad- 
vancing portico  on  the  east,  IGO  feet  in  extent — the 
centre  of  which  is  crowned  with  a  pediment  of  80  feet 
span :  a  receding  loggia  of  1 00  feet  extent,  distinguish- 
es the  centre  of  the  west  front. 

The  building  is  surrounded  by  a  balustrade  of  stone, 
and  covered  with  a  lofty  dome  in  the  centre,  and  a  flat 
dome  on  each  wing. 

The  Chamber  of  the  House  of  Representatives  is  in  the 
2d  story  of  the  south  wing,  and  is  semicircular,  in  the 
form  of  the  ancient  Grecian  theatre  ;  the  chord  of  the 
>  longest  dimension  is  96  feet,  and  the  height  to  the  high- 
est point  of  the  domical  ceiling  is  60  feet.  This  room 
is  surrounded  by  24  columns  of  variegated  native  mar- 
ble, or  breccia^  from  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  with 
capitals  of  white  Italian  marble,  carved  after  a  speci- 
men of  the  Corinthian  order,  still  remaining  among  the 
ruins  of  Athens,  which  stand  on  a  base  of  free  stone, 
and  support  a  magnificent  dome  painted  in  a  very  rich 
and  splendid  style  to  represent  ♦h?.t  of  the  Pantheon  of 
Rome,  and  executed  by  an  interesting  young  Italian 
artist,  named  Bonani,  who  died  a  few  years  ago.  In 
the  centre  of  this  dome  is  erected,  to  admit  the  light 
from  above,  a  handsome  cupola,  from  which  is  suspend- 
ed a  massy  bronze  gilt  chandelier  of  immense  weight, 
which  reaches  within  ten  feet  of  the  floor  of  the  cham- 
ber. The  speaker's  chair  is  elevated  and  canopied, 
and  on  a  level  with  the  loggia  or  promenade  for  the 
members,  consisting  of  columns  and  pilasters  of  mar- 
ble and  stone.  Above  this,  and  under  a  sweeping  arch 
near  the  dome,  is  placed  the  model  of  a  colossal  figure 


WASHINGTON  CITT. 


43 


of  Liberty f  and  on  the  entablature  beneath  is  sculptur- 
ed an  American  Eagle.  In  front  of  the  chair  and  im- 
mediately over  the  entrance,  stands  a  beautiful  statue 
in  marble,  representing  History  recording  the  events  of 
the  nation.  Between  the  columns  is  suspended  fring- 
ed drapery  of  crimsoned  moreens,  festooned  near  the 
gallery  to  limit  the  sound  and  assist  the  hearing.  A 
magnificent  portrait  o.  La  Fayette,  at  full  length,  paint- 
ed by  a  French  artist,  decorates  a  panel  on  one  side  the 
loggia. 

The  Senate  Chamber  in  the  north  wing  is  of  the  same 
semicircular  form,  75  feet  in  its  greatest  length  and  46 
high ;  a  screen  of  Ionic  columns,  with  capitals  after 
those  of  the  temple  of  Minerva  Polias,  support  a  galle- 
ry to  the  east  and  form  a  loggia  below,  and  a  new  gal- 
lery of  iron  pillars  and  railings  of  light  and  elegant 
structure  projects  from  the  circular  walls  :  the  dome 
ceiling  is  enriched  with  square  caissons  of  stucco. 

The  walls  are  covered  with  straw  colored  drapery, 
between  small  pilasters  of  marble  in  the  wall.  Col- 
umns of  breccia^  or  Potomac  marble,  support  the  east- 
ern gallery. 

The  Rotunda  comprehends  the  spacious  area  between 
the  two  wings  of  the  structure,  and  is  of  a  circular  form. 
It  is  entirely  of  marble,  (and  so  indeed  is  every  perma- 
nent part  of  the  capitol,)  excepting  the  light  doors  cov- 
ered wiih  green  baize  that  lead  out  of  it,  and  the  frame 
of  the  sky  light  above.  The  height  of  the  dome  soars 
beyond  the  roof,  and  it  may  well  be  imagined,  is  most 
imposing  and  sublime.  The  floor  is  beautifully  paved, 
and  the  sound  of  a  single  voice,  uttering  words  in  an 
ordinary  tone,  reverberates  aloft  like  the  faint  rumbling 


f"- 


44 


WASHINGTON  CITY. 


ofdistant  thunder.  When  two  or  more  converse,  there 
is  an  incessant  roaring,  absorbing  the  entire  medium  of 
sound.  Even  the  simple  touch  of  a  walking  stick  on 
the  pavement  directly  echoes  along  the  circumference, 
and  dies  away  slowly  in  the  capacious  vault ;  so  ex- 
tremely clastic  is  the  air  within.  There  is  nothing  that 
equals  it  in  this  country  ;  and,  of  itself,  it  well  deserves 
a  journey  to  Washington. 

In  the  niches  designedly  left  about  fifteen  feet  from 
the  floor,  are  four  sculptured  pieces  as  large  as  life,  de- 
signed to  commemorate  the  aboriginal  character  and 
some  of  the  prominent  events  in  the  early  history  of 
the  country.  The  scene  of  the  first  device  is  laid  in 
1773,  and  is  designed  to  represent  a  fearful  contest  be- 
tween Daniel  Boon,  an  early  settler  in  one  of  the  west- 
ern states,  and  an  Indian  chief.  The  second  represents 
the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth  in  1620.  The 
third  is  a  representation  of  William  Penn  and  two  In- 
dian chiefs  in  a  treaty  in  1682,  under  the  memorable 
elm  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Delaware,  near  Philadel- 
phia. And  the  fourth  represents  the  narrow  escape  in 
1606  of  Capt.  John  Smith,  the  first  successful  adven- 
turer in  Virginia,  from  the  uplifted  war-club  of  King 
Powhatan.  The  figure  o^'  Pocahontas,  in  the  attitude 
of  supplicating  the  merc;i  of  her  father  in  behalf  of  the 
intended  victim,  is  beautifully  wrought,  and  the  whole 
exhibits  much  elegance  of  design  and  workmanship. 
In  the  remaining  niches,  which  are  designed  to  be  filled 
with  paintings,  are  already  placed  the  following,  exe- 
cuted by  the  late  Col.  Trumbull,  one  of  the  aids  of  Gen. 
Washington:  The  Declaration  of  Independence;  Sur- 
render of  Gen.  Borgoyne ;  Surrender  of  Cornwallis  at 


WASHINGTON  CITY. 


45 


Yorktowii ;  and  the  Resignation  of  Geii.  Washington 
at  Annapolis,  Dec.  23,  1783.  The  figures  in  these 
paintings  are  full  length,  and  are  said  to  be  excellent 
likenesses.  The  designs  and  execution  arc  admirable, 
and  exhibit  the  great  and  almost  unrivalled  talent  olT 
the  artist. 

The  Library. — Passing  from  the  Rotunda,  westerly, 
along  the  gallery  of  the  principal  stairs,  the  Library 
room  door  presents  itself.  This  room  is  92  feet  long, 
34  wide,  and  36  high.  It  is  divided  into  twelve  arched 
alcoves,  ornamented  with  fluted  pilasters,  copied  from 
the  pillars  in  the  celebrated  Octagon  Tower  at  Athens. 
At  the  entrance,  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  which  is 
approached  from  the  great  central  Rotunda,  are  two 
columns  of  stone,  with  capitals  corresponding  with 
those  of  the  pilasters,  and  immediately  opposite  and 
fronting  the  window  which  leads  into  the  western  col- 
onnade, stand  two  similar  columns  of  stone.  These 
pillars,  with  alcoves,  support  two  galleries,  extending 
nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  room  on  both  sides,  and 
divided  into  the  same  number  of  shelved  recesses  as  tho 
lower  apartment.  From  these  recesses  springs  the  arch 
which  forms  the  ceiling,  elegantly  ornamented  witli  rich 
stucco  borders,  panels,  and  wreaths  of  flowers.  On 
the  roof,  which  is  about  ten  feet  above  the  ceiling,  are 
three  sky  lights,  the  walls  of  which  are  beautifully 
decorated  with  stucco  ornaments.  The  principal  apart- 
ments, as  well  as  the  committee  rooms  on  the  nortli 
attached  to  it,  are  handsomely  furnished  with  sofas, 
mahogany  tables,  desks,  Brussels  carpeting,  &c. 

This  extensive  collection  of  books  contains  at  present 
about  fourteen  thousand  volumes,  in  various  languages. 


46 


WASHINGTON  CITT. 


The  library  is  well  chosen.  The  classical  department, 
in  particular,  comprises  many  rare  books.  Mr.  JefTer- 
Hon's  arrangement  of  them  is  still  preserved,  founded, 
it  is  presumed,  on  Bacon's  classification  of  science ; 
and  they  are  divided  into  chapters,  according  to  the 
subjects  to  which  they  relate. 

Besides  the  principal  rooms  above  mentioned,  two 
others  deserve  notice,  from  the  peculiarity  of  their 
architecture — the  round  apartment  under  the  Rotundr, 
enclosing  forty  columns  supporting  ground  arches, 
which  form  the  fiooi  of  the  Rotunda.  This  room  is 
similar  to  the  substructions  of  the  European  Cathe- 
drals, and  may  take  the  name  of  Crypet  from  them. 
The  other  room  is  used  by  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
United  States,  and  is  of  the  same  style  of  architecture, 
with  a  bold  and  curious  arched  ceiling — the  columns  of 
these  rooms  are  of  massy  Dorick,  imitated  from  the 
temples  of  Postum.  Twenty-rive  other  rooms,  of 
various  sizes,  are  appropriated  to  the  officers  of  the 
two  houses  of  congress  and  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and 
45  to  the  use  of  committees  ;  they  are  all  vaulted  and 
floored  with  brick  and  stone.  Three  principal  stair 
cases  are  spacious  and  varied  in  their  form  ;  these,  with 
the  vestibules  and  numerous  corridors  or  passages,  it 
would  be  difficult  to  describe  intelligibly.  We  will 
only  say,  that  they  are  in  conformity  to  the  dignity  of 
the  building  and  style  of  the  parts  already  named. 

The  East  Front  presents  three  marble  figures,  rep- 
resenting the  Genius  of  America,  Hope  and  Justice. 
They  are  executed  with  much  taste  and  judgment,  and 
present  an  imposing  appearance. 


WASHINGTON  CITY. 


47 


)r  passages,  it 


Fronting  the  capitol,  towards  the  Pennsylvania  Ave- 
nue, and  within  an  oblong  marble  vase,  is  a  naval  mon- 
ument, originally  erected  at  the  navy  yard,  in  memory 
ol'the  American  officers  who  fell  in  the  Tripolitan  war. 
It  is  a  simple  column,  wrought  in  Italy  at  the  expcnac 
of  the  survivors. 

The  Presidenfs  HotisCy  which  is  also  constructed  of 
white  free  stone,  two  stories  high,  with  four  spacious 
buildings*  near  it  for  the  accommodation  of  the  heads 
of  department,  make  together  an  interesting  spectacle 
for  the  visitant. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  spot  in  the  United  States  that 
holds  out  more  inducements  to  a  traveller  than  this  city 
durinff  t^e  sessions  of  congress.  It  is  the  theatre  on 
which  the  pride  and  power  of  the  American  nation  arc 
congregated  to  control  the  desiinies  of  a  mighty  people. 
It  is  the  residence  of  all  the  foreign  ministers,  and  em- 
braces a  large  portion  of  the  gay  and  fashionable  world. 
The  levees  at  the  house  of  the  president  arc  fascinat- 
ing ;  and  the  apartments  on  these  occasions  are  open 
and  accessible  to  every  citizen  of  the  republic. 

Among  other  places  of  interest  at  and  near  Washing- 
ton, and  which  deserve  the  attention  of  visitants,  arc 
the  Navy  Yard  ;  the  Columbian  College,  situate  on  a 
high  range  ofgrouna  north  of  the  city  and  about  a 
mile  from  the  President's  House,  and  the  National 
Burying  Ground  about  a  mile  south-east  of  the  capitol. 
The  ground  on  which  Washint.'ton  is  built  is  high, 
airy  and  salubrious  ;  and  the  city,  from  the  extent  of  its 


*  Oneof  those  buildings,  occupied  by  the  department 
of  state,  was  burnt  in  1833. 

d2 


^ 


GEOROETOWN. 


territory,  presents  the  appearance  of  several  distinct 
villages.  It  is  however  rapidly  increasing  and  improv- 
ing, and  contained  in  1830  a  population  of  18,837. 

Its  principal  public  houses  are  the  National  Hotel, 
one  of  the  most  splendid  in  the  United  States  ;  the  In- 
dian Clueen  Hotel;  and  the  Mansion  Hotel.  They 
are  all  located  on  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 

There  is  a  bridge  across  the  Potomac,  opposite 
Washington,  which  was  completed  in  1835.  It  is  one 
mile  in  length,  including  the  abutments  ;  2000  feet  of 
which  are  solid  embankment  of  stone  and  gravel.  The 
other  portions  are  founded  on  oak  piles  driven  into  the 
bed  of  the  stream.  It  has  draws  for  the  passage  of 
vessels,  60  feet  in  width ;  so  that  its  construction  does 
not  materially  interfere  with  the  navigation  of  the  river. 
Its  cost  was  about  $130,000. 


Georgetown  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  Potomac 
with  Washington,  at  the  distance  of  3  miles  west  of  the 
capitol.  It  is  very  pleasantly  situated,  and  is  a  place  of 
considerable  trade.  The  country  around  it  is  richly  di- 
versified, and  the  location  of  the  Catholic  Monastery 
is  very  delightful.  It  stands  on  the  borders  of  "  the 
heights,"  in  the  north  west  part  of  the  town,  and  over- 
looks the  body  of  the  town  below.  The  enclosure  em- 
braces about  one  acre.  On  the  north  side  is  the  acade- 
my conducted  by  the  nuns,  consisting  of  a  long  range 
of  buildings  three  stories  high.  In  the  middle  of  the 
front  or  eastern  side  stands  the  chapel.  On  the  lefl  of 
the  chapel  is  the  room  of  the  father  confessor,  and  also 
the  private  apartment  of  the  nuns,  into  which  no  unhal- 
lowed tread  of  the  worldly  and  profane  is  ever  admitted. 


GEOKOETUWN. 


49 


The  Academy,  or  High  School  for  Ladies,  is  the 
most  interesting  a  ppendago  of  the  convent.  It  contains 
a  boarding  school  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  pupils, 
and  a  free  or  charity  school  of  a  much  largernumber  of 
day  scholars.  What  strikes  the  visitor  with  most  pleas- 
ure is  the  perfect  system  and  order  with  vhich  every 
thing  is  done.  The  young  misses  who  compose  the 
school  are  regularly  and  rigidly  trained  to  do  every 
thing  on  plan  and  method. 

The  seminary  is  divided  into  four  classes.  The  hall 
of  the  first  class  contains  an  extensive  cabinet  of  min- 
erals, to  which  many  rare  and  valuable  specimens  have 
been  presented  by  the  officers  of  our  navy,  and  by  cath- 
olics of  the  eastern  world.  It  has  also  many  rich 
specimens  of  art ;  the  contributions  of  wealthy  and 
powerful  patrons  of  the  Church.  The  sword,  sheath 
and  belt  of  Iturbide,  once  a  hero  of  South  America,  two 
of  whose  daughters  are  ["now  in  this  convent,  were 
presented  to  the  jinet  by  Commodore  Rodgers. 
It  also  claims  to  have  many  sacred  relics,  such  as  shreds 
or  scraps  from  the  garments  of  numerous  saints — frag- 
ments from  the  church  and  tomb  of  St.  Peter,  and  of 
other  saints — pieces  of  the  wood  of  the  cross,  &c.  &c. 

The  number  of  nuns  in  this  convent,  at  present,  is 
about  sixty.  Among  them  are  descendants  of  rich  and 
powerful  families.  Their  employment  con?' -is  in  con- 
fessions, vigils,  fasts,  penances,  reading  and  religious 
exercises,  in  teaching,  in  domestic  concerns,  and  in 
making  fine  needle- work  for  sale.  The  charity  school 
embraces  about  200  day  pupils.  For  their  humanity 
and  benevolence  in  collecting  and  teaching  these  chil- 
dren, the  nuns  deserve  praise.    In  thoAe  employment* 


iO 


CHliiSAPEAKt:  AM)  OHIO  CANAT,. 


they  appear  happy  ;  hut  the  happino«K  of  these  iluvo- 
tecs,  if  real,  must  be  of  the  negative  kind. 


The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canai,  vvuk  eonmioneejl 
on  the  4th  of  July,  1828,  but  has  not  h'vn  prosecntcd 
with  the  vigor  originally  contensplated.     It  \h  to  extend 
from  Georgetown,  D.  C,  to  near  Pitt«burgh,  Pcnn., 
where  it  is  to  unite  with  the  Pennsylvania  eanal  and 
the  Ohio  river;  its  length  360  milcH,  and  its  lorUagc 
4004  feet.     It  was  completed  in  1835  to  Williamsport, 
104  miles  from  Georgetown,  and  is  to  ho  fininhcd  the 
present  season  (1837)  to  Cumberland,  81  rniles  farther. 
Its  dimensions  are  60  feet  in  width  at  the  surface  and 
42  feet  at  bottom,  with  a  depth  of  G  feet,  affordinij 
ample  space  for  canal  boats  of  the  largest  class.     The 
rugged  country  through  which  it  paasos  ;  the  solid  and 
beautiful  masonry  of  the  locks  and  acpieducts — ^all  con- 
spire to  impress  upon  the  traveller  a  high  scuhc  of  the 
skill  of  the  engineers  and  of  the  entorprine  of  the  com- 
pany, which  has  persevered  in  the  work  under  so  many 
appalling  difficulties.    The  aqueducts  over  the  Seneca 
and  Monocacy  creeks  are  perhaps  not  exceeded  by  any 
thing  in  this  country,  for  beauty  and  iighfiicsH  oi'  de- 
sign and  solidity  of  construction.     Tlio  wildncss  of  the 
scenery  around  sets  ott"  to  greater  advantage  these 
triumphs  of  art  over  nature.     It  i«,  however,  from  \Uf 
Point  of  Rocks  to  Harper's  I'crry,  12  njilen,  that  the? 
«i,reatest  diffioiiltics  have  been  ciicounterrd.     For  tliis 
distance  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail  road  iumm  paiiillcj 
lo,  and  in  contact  v.iih  The  canal — Ihe  hank  of  the  laftf  r 
forming  the  bed  of  the  fornior.     Both  works  are  carried 
for  miles  under  precipitous  crags,  many  hundred  feet 


FROM  WASHINGTON  TO  BALTIMORE. 


5t 


f  I.Ikjhc  cIcv^o- 


high,  and  whose  very  foundations  have  been  cut  away 
to  fonn  a  shell  for  the  road,  while  the  canal  is  made  to 
encroach  on  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  scenery  itself  is 
grand  and  imposing,  and  when  viewed  in  connection 
with  the  monuments  of  human  genius  and  perseverance 
which  are  seen  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs,  it  assumes  the 
character  of  sublimity.  He  must  indeed  have  a  dull 
spirit,  who,  carried  along  by  boat  or  car,  can  view  it 
unmoved.  For  miles  the  traveller  is  carried  alongside 
and  under  these  tremendous  precipices,  the  walls  of  the 
everlasting  granite  being  within  reach  of  his  hand,  and 
the  perpendicular  view  of  the  sky  not  unfrequently 
obscured  by  the  overjutting  crags.  On  this  part  of  the 
route  the  rail  road  company,  by  an  arrangement  with 
the  canal  company,  are  prohibited  from  using  steam. 


FROM   WASHINGTON   TO   BALTIMORE, 

40  miles. 

The  route  is  by  the  Washington  rail  road,  which 
commences  at  the  north-east  part  of  the  city,  and  in  its 
course  to  Baltimore,  approaches  within  sight  of  Bla- 
dcnsbiirgh,  4  miles  from  Washington  ;  crosses  the  Pa- 
tnxent  river  13  miles  farther ;  crosses  the  Patapsco  riv- 
er, on  a  noble  and  lofty  viaduct,  15  miles  farther,  and 
unites  with  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail  road  at  Elk- 
ridgc  Landinjr,  which  latter  road  is  taken  for  a  distance 
of  8  miles  to  Baltimore.  The  road  is  made  in  a  very 
permanent  and  enduring  manner  ;  and  though  over  a 
rough  and  undulating  country,  its  acclivities  do  not  av- 
erage more  than  20  feet  per  mile.  Its  cost  was  about 
$1,500,000.   Locomotive  engines  are  almost  exclusive- 


52 


BALTIMORE. 


ly  used,  and  the  time  employed  ir  passing  between  the 
two  cities  is  generally  about  2J  hours. 


* 


BALTIMORE. 

Th6  rapid  growth  and  present  extent  and  population 
of  this  city  is  truly  remarkable,  and  to  be  ascribed  no 
less  to  the  spirit  of  enterprize  which  has  always  char- 
terized  its  inhabitants,  than  to  the  natural  advantages 
of  its  position.  Its  scite  is  on  the  north  side,  and  at 
the  head  of  tide  water  on  the  Patapsco  river,  14  miles 
above  its  entrance  into  the  Chesapeake.  The  centen- 
i^ry  of  its  existence  was  celebrated  in  August,  1829. 
On  the  8th  of  that  month,  in  1729,  the  first  act  was 
passed  for  laying  out  the  town  on  sixty  acres  of  land 
from  which  the  native  forests  had  then  but  partially  giv- 
ed  place  to  the  axe  and  the  plough.  These  sixty  acres 
were  purchased  at  40  shillings  per  acre,  to  be  paid  in 
money,  or  tobacco  at  one  penny  per  pound.  The  pro- 
gress of  the  city  at  lirst  was  sluggish  and  unpromising. 
Thirty-three  years  after  its  location,  (1752,)  it  contain- 
ed but  twenty-five  houses,  and  a  small  brig  and  sloop 
were  the  only  vessels  owned  in  the  town.  Even  up  to 
1773,  the  merchants  were  compelled  to  send  their  ad- 
vertisements to  Annapolis  or  Philadelphia,  there  being 
no  newspaper  then  published  in  Baltimore.  Now,  with 
a  population  of  nearly  100,000,  it  may  be  considered 
the  third  city  in  the  union  ;  whilst  for  its  various  man- 
ufactories and  public  buildings,  ornamental  to  the  city 

*  For  a  principal  part  of  the  following  de?cription  of 
Baltimore,  the  Editor  is  indebted  to  John  S.  Skinner, 
Esq.  the  P.  Master  of  that  city. 


:;-.'rJ'"yf-;  ?■':.  '■' 


BALTIMORE. 


53 


o  between  the 


and  remarkable  for  their  costliness,  taste  and  commo- 
diousness,  it  stands  undoubtedly  in  the  first  rank  for 
enterprise  and  public  spirit.  For  tobacco  and  flour, 
13altiinore  is  the  leading  market ;  for  flour,  the  first  in 
the  world.  Within  20  miles  around,  the  water  power 
is  almost  incalculable.  It  drives  at  present  more  than 
70  flour  mills,  one  of  which  has  turned  out  32,000  bar- 
rels in  one  year.  There  are,  too,  within  that  compass, 
twelve  cotton  manufactories,  keeping  in  motion  30,000 
spindles,  besides  manufactories  of  cloth,  powder,  pa- 
per, iron,  glass,  steam  engines,  extensive  chemical 
works,  and  one  mill  by  steam  power  for  manufactur- 
jh,  *''^'\r  and  copper,  that  has  turned  ofi'  200  barrels  a 
dp  1  works  annually  about  600,000  pounds  of  raw 

copper.  Many  of  these  may  conveniently  be  visited  by 
sojourners  in  the  city,  on  foot  or  by  short  rides  in  the 
immediate  vicinity. 

The  city,  as  rechartered  in  1816,  contains  10,000 
acres,  and  embraces  within  the  limits  built  upon,  a 
court  house,  jail,  penitentiary,  lunatic  asylum,  two  the- 
atres, the  largest  circus  in  America,  an  exchange,  an 
observatory  founded  by  the  father  of  the  gallant  Com- 
modore Porter,  two  museums,  five  market  houses,  ten 
banks,  gas  works,  (the  first  in  this  country  for  lighting 
the  streets  and  houses,)  a  public  library,  a  medical  col- 
lege, and  45  houses  of  pubhc  worship. 

Most  of  these  establishments  would  be  worthy  of  the 
regard  of  tourists.  It  cannot  be  expected  that  we 
should  describe  them  minutely,  our  object  being  but 
briefly  to  indicate  their  existence  ;  but  almost  all  stran- 
gers make  a  visit  to  the  cathedral,  the  exchange,  the 
public  fountains,  of  which  there  are  four  tastefully  or- 


54 


BALTIMORK. 


namented  and  giving  a  copious  supply  of  pure  sprinfc 
water ;  the  museums,  the  monuments,  and  the  rail 
roads. 

The  Cathedral  is  built  after  the  Grecian  Ionic  or- 
der, on  a  plan  drawn  by  that  distinguished  and  lament- 
ed architect,  the  late  H.  B.  Latrobe.  its  outward  length 
is  190  feet,  its  width  177,  and  its  height  to  the  summit 
of  the  cross  that  surmounts  the  dome  is  127  feet.    A 
minute  descript'on  of  the  numerous  ornaments  and 
specimens  of  taste  in  the  fine  arts  that  abound  in  this 
magnificent  building,  would  be  incompatible  with  the 
plan  of  this  work  ;  but  we  may  advise  the  tourist  that 
amongst  others,  it  contains  the  largest  organ  in  the 
United  States,  with  6000  pipes  and  36  stops,  and  two 
very  splendid  paintings — one  the  descent  from  the  cross, 
by  PauHn  Gueri  i,  a  present  from  Louis  XVI — anoth- 
er, presented  by  Louis  XVII,  representing  St.  Louis, 
attended  by  his  chaplain  and  armor-bearer,  burying  one 
of  his  officers  slain  before  Tunis,  as  an  encouragement 
to  his  ofllicers  and  soldiers,  who,  for  fear  of  contagion, 
would  have  left  their  comrades  to  be  devoured  bv  beasts 
and  birds  of  prey.* 

The  Merchants'  Exchange,  built  by  private  sub- 
scription, is  another  monument  to  the  public  spirit  of 
the  citizens.  This  edifice,  from  Water  to  Second,  front- 
ing on  Gay-street,  is  255  b    a  depth  on  the  two  first  of 

*  It  was  in  this  Cathedral  that  the  funeral  honors 
were  paid  to  Charles  Carroll,  of  Carrollton,  the  last  sur- 
viving signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  He 
died  in  the  city  on  the  13th  IN'ov.  1832,  and  his  remains 
were  conveyed  for  interment  to  the  vault  on  the  premi- 
ses of  the  family  mansion,  about  IG  miles  distant. 


BALTlMURE. 


55 


141  feel,  and  is  three  stories  high  exclusive  of  tiie  base- 
ment. In  the  centre  is  the  great  hall,  86  feet  by  53, 
lighted  from  the  dome,  which  is  90  feet  from  the  floor. 
In  this  hall,  to  which  they  have  access  by  three  entran- 
ces from  the  streets,  the  merchants  convene  daily  from 
1  to  2  o'clock. 

On  a  scale  corresponding  with  these  buildings  in  ex- 
tent and  convenience,  according  to  their  several  de- 
signs and  objects,  the  traveller  may  be  edified  and 
amused  by  an  inspection  of  the  other  public  edifices, 
which  here  we  could  only  designate  by  name.  But  in 
any  thing  like  a  picture  of  Baltimore  as  a  guide  for  the 
tourist,  its  monuments  and  its  rail  roads,  leading  to  the 
Ohio  and  the  Susquehannah,  are  decidedly  the  most 
striking  features.  The  one  called  the  Battle  Monu- 
ment, an  elegant  marble  structure  about  55  feet  high, 
was  commenced  on  the  site  of  the  old  court  house  in 
Washington  Square,  on  the  12th  of  September,  1815, 
in  memory  of  those  who,  on  the  12th  and  13th  of  the 
same  month  in  the  preceding  year,  had  fallen  gallantly 
in  defence  of  the  city. 

Another  splendid  monument,  called  the  Washing- 
ton Monument,  built  of  white  marble,  ornamental  to 
the  city  and  honorable  to  its  inhabitants,  (but  vain  as 
an  effort  to  extend  the  fame  of  him  whose  glory  is  as 
wide  and  imperishable  as  the  empire  of  letters,)  has 
hern  erected  on  an  elevation  a  little  north  of  the  com^ 
pact  part  of  the  city,  presented  for  that  purpose  by  the 
late  Col.  John  E.  Howard,  the  hero  of  Eutaw  and  of 
the  Cowpens.  The  base  is  50  feet  square  and  23  high, 
on  which  is  placed  another  square  of  about  half  the 
extent  and  elevation.  On  this  is  a  column  20  feet  in 
s 


,)r5'-- 


M 


fiALTlMORg. 


diameter  at  the  base,  and  14  at  the  top.  The  coSoss&i 
statue  of  Washington,  the  largest  one  in  modern  age.«^, 
is  placed  on  the  summit  163  feet  from  the  fi^round.  This 
tnonument  is  to  be  embelUshed  with  bas  reliefs  and 
other  decorations. 

The  Baltimore  AND  Ohio  Rail  Road  commences 
a  short  distance  from  the  Washington  turnpike  road 
ori  West  Pratt  street,  where  the  company  have  estab- 
lished a  depot.    Under  the  authority  given  by  the  City 
Council,  a  line  of  railway  has  also  been  laid  from  the 
termination  of  the  main  stem  of  the  road,  at  the  Depot, 
down  Pratt  street  to  the  Basin,  whence  it  is  construct- 
ed to  the  City  Block,  and  runs  parallel  with  the  entire 
Water  front  of  the  city,  communicating  with  all  the 
wharves,  and  intersecting  all  the  principal  streets  which 
extend  north-westerly  and  southerly,  as  far  down  as 
the  public  property  south  of  Jones'  Falls,  at  which  place 
there  have  been  conveyed  to  the  company,  by  the  Cor- 
poration of  Baltimore,  two  squares  of  the  ground,  fa- 
vorably situated  for  the  convenient  and  economical 
transactions  of  an  extensive  cctmrnerce.     An  uninter- 
rupted communication  is  thus  opened  along  the  whole 
extent  of  the  road,  between  the  Port  of  Baltimore  and 
the  Potomac  river  at  Harper's  Ferry,  a  distance  of  67^ 
miles  ;  which  is  extended,  by  means  of  the  Winchester 
and  Potomac  rail  road,  30  miles  farther  in  a  S.  W.  di- 
rection to  Winchester,  Viigrinia.     There  is  also  a  lat- 
eral road,  2  or  3  miitfc'  long,  from  Harper's  Ferry  to  the 
city  of  Frederick. 

A  double  track  has  been  laid  most  of  the  way  to 
Frederick,  and  the  travelling  and  transportation  have 


liALTlMORE. 


57 


thus  far  fully  equalled  the  anticipations  of  tlie  stock- 
holders. 

A  ride  as  fa'."  at  least  as  Ellicott's  mills,  13  miles  from 
Baltimore,  is  considered  almost  a  matter  of  course  by 
strangers  visiting  the  city.  The  scenery  on  the  route, 
being  mostly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Patapsco  river,  is 
picturesque  and  interesting.  Among  the  works  con- 
nected with  the  road,  the  Carrollton  Viaduct j  over 
Gwynn's  Falls^  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  city, 
is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  pieces  of  architecture  in 
Amc  :ica — alike  beautiful  in  proportion,  materials  and 
workmanship.  This  bridge  is  built  of  a  beautiful  gran- 
ite, contains  one  arch  of  about  80  feet  span  and  40  feet 
in  height,  and  is  312  feet  in  length  from  end  to  end  of 
the  parapets. 

The  Jackson  Bridge,  is  a  single  arch  109  feet  long, 
of  entirely  novel  structure,  the  invention  of  Col.  Long, 
of  the  company's  board  of  engineers.  The  Deep  Cut 
through  a  high  and  broad  ridge  of  1  d,  is  about  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  in  length,  its  greatest  depth  70  feet, 
and  its  width,  at  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  184  feet, 
duantities  of  carbonized  wood  were  found  sixty  feet 
below  the  natural  surface,  and  a  stump  of  a  tree  with 
its  roots  at  forty  feet.  The  entire  excavation  is  2G3,- 
848  cubic  yards.  The  Great  Embankment  at  Gadshfs 
Run,  five  miles  from  Baltimore,  is  nearly  a  mile  in 
length,  its  greatest  elevation  56  feet,  and  its  greatest 
width  191  feet.  At  the  top  the  usual  width  of  26  feet 
is  preserved  for  a  double  set  of  rails.  Gadsbifs  Run 
Viaduct  affords  a  passage  to  the  waters  of  the  run 
tlirough  the  embankment.  The  arch,  composed  of 
dressed  granite  blocks,  is  of  the  extraordinary  width  of 


58 


BALTIMORE. 


120  feet  from  opnning  to  opening.  Tlie  Patterson  Via- 
dncf  's  an  immense  strudiire  of  granite,  by  which  tlie 
road  is  carried  to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Patapsco  It 
is  built  of  granite  blocks,  from  one  to  seven  tons  in 
weight,  and  its  entire  length  is  375  feet.  It  has  four 
beautiful  arches,  the  two  centre  ones  each  a  span  of  55 
feet,  with  extensive  wings  and  water  walls,  abutments, 
&c.  The  heighth  from  the  water  to  the  crown  of  the 
arches  is  30  feet.  Th3  corner  stone  of  this  structure 
was  laid  on  the  6th  May,  1829,  and  on  the  4th  of  De- 
cember it  was  crossed  on  horseback  by  William  Pat- 
terson, Esq.  for  whom  the  honor  had  been  reserved,  and 
whose  name  it  bears.  It  embraces  nearly  10,000  per- 
ches of  masonry.  Besides  these  are  the  embankments 
at  Stillhousc  Run^  two  granite  viaducts,  the  rock-side 
cutting  at  Buzzard's  Rock,  &c. 

The  Bal-^imore  and  Susquehannah  Rail  Road, 
extending  from  Baltimore  to  York  Haven,  on  the  Sus- 
quehannah  river,  a  distance  of  60  miles,  is  also  a  work 
of  much  utility  to  Baltimore,  and  worthy  the  attention 
of  tourists. 

For  its  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  travel- 
lers, Baltimore  is  not  remarkable,  except  for  its  City 
Hotel.  This  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  edifices  of 
its  kind  in  the  union.  It  is  centrally  and  most  con- 
veniently situated,  presenting  a  front  on  Calvert  street 
of  117  feet,  running  back  183 — taking  in  two  spacious 
buildings  formerly  occupied  as  private  residences,  so 
connected  with  tlie  establishment  as  to  afford  two  dis- 
tinct private  entrances  on  Fayette  street,  which  lead  to 
thirteen  parlors  arranged  expressly  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  private  families,  with  chambers  so  connecied 


■^ 


UALTIMURE. 


50 


alterson  Viu- 
)y  which  the 
Patapsco.  It 
!vcn  tons  in 
ft  has  four 
a  span  of  55 
,  ahiitments, 
:rown  of  the 
lis  structure 
c  4th  of  De- 
Villiam  Pat- 
eserved,  and 
r  10,000  per- 
mbankments 
he  rock-side 

Rail  Road, 
on  the  Sus- 
also  a  work 
he  attention 

of  travel- 
for  its  City 
d  edifices  of 
I  most  con  ■ 
alvert  street 
wo  spacious 
sidences,  so 
'ord  two  dis- 
'hich  lead  to 
iccommoda- 
0  oonnecicd 


with  them  as  to  make  them  as  convenient  for  ladiea 
and  children  as  any  private  house.  The  City  Hotel 
contains  172  apartments,  and  was  built  expressly  tar^  a 
hotel,  under  the  direction  of  its  experienced  prop/ietor, 
Mr.  Barnum.  In  the  basement  of  the  building  on  Cal- 
vert street  is  situated  the  Post  Oflice,  into  which  the 
traveller  may  deposit  his  letters  by  a  conduit  from  the 
large  Reading  Room  above,  where  he  can  peruse,  gra- 
tuitously, the  papers  from  all  parts  of  the  union.  To 
all  other  convenienceb  combined  in  this  establishment 
which  travellers  can  desire,  is  added  an  observatory  on 
the  top  of  it,  constructed  expressly  to  afiord  to  its  guests 
views  of  the  Harbor  and  Fort  M'Henry,  and  the  town, 
and  the  country  seats  that  surround  it. 

The  Indian  CIueen,  the  next  largest  establishment, 
is  well  and  liberally  kept  by  Mr.  Beltzhover,  its  oblig- 
ing and  popular  tenant. 

And  here  we  may  close  a  sketch  of  this  patriotic 
city  by  the  remark,  that  it  is  in  nothing  more  distin- 
guished from  our  other  large  cities,  than  by  the  beauty 
of  its  environs.  A  succession  of  elevated  sites  rising 
one  above  another  encircle  it  from  the  Philadelphia 
road  on  the  east  to  the  Washington  turnpike  on  the 
west.  From  these  em.inences  the  stranger  obtains,  at  a 
single  coup  cfail,  a  view  of  the  town  and  its  numerous 
approaches  by  land  and  water,  its  monuments,  its 
domes,  its  steeples  and  its  towers. 

Some  of  these  heights  are  crowned  with  private  resi- 
dences, displaying  all  the  taste  and  magnificence  that 
characterize  the  seats  of  European  opulence  and  refine- 
ment. Of  these,  the  most  expensively  embellished  and 
conspicuous  is  "  Green  Mount,"  the  elegant  summer 
e2 


sb 


FROM  DALTI.MORE    10  MlILADELrHIA. 


retreat  of  a  gentleman  wlio'-sc  taste  and  liospitalily  hap- 
pily correspond  with  hi.s  ample  pos3('!«sioni=«.  To  the 
splendid  mansion,  with  all  its  incidental  accommoda- 
tions, on  the  most  extensive  and  liherrl  scale,  is  con- 
nected a  circular  promenade  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
in  length,  overshadowed  by  trees  iVom  every  clime, 
tempting  to  healthful  exercise,  and  offering  on  either 
hand  every  variety  of  fruit  and  flower  that  cultivated 
nature  has  prepared  to  delight  the  eye  and  gratify  the 
palate.  Whilst  for  the  benevolent  proprietor  a  senti- 
ment of  universal  and  profound  respect  consecrates  his 
100  acres  that  border  on  this  line  of  the  city,  guarding 
them  from  the  hand  of  depredation,  strangers  entitled 
tjo  consideration  visit  Green  Mount  without  difficulty, 
and  admire  it  without  measure. 


FUDM    BALTIMOliE    TO   PHILADELPHIA, 

lloj  miles. 
The  route  is  by  steam-boat  and  rail  road,*  as  follows ; 


Miles. 
By  Stenui-bont. 
From  Haitiniovo  to 

FortM'Hcnry, 3 

Sparrow's  Point, 6 

^' or th  Point, 1 

Miller's  Island, 8 

Pool's  Island, S 

Grove  Point, 16 

Turkey  Point, 6 

French  Town, 13 


JMiles. 
B'j  rail  road 
From   French  Town, 
Md.  to  New  Cas- 
tle, Del 16^ 

By  Stearn-hoat. 
Christiana  Creek,  Del.     5 
Marcus  Hook,  Penn . .     8 

Chester, 4 

Lazaretto, 5 

Fort  Mifflin, .") 


Philadelphia, ,,     8 

This  route  is  usually  travelled  in  from  9  to  10  hours. 


*  An  entire  route  by  rail  road  between  the  cities,  by 
the  way  of  Tlavr»?  dn  Giraco  and  Wilmington,  i,=  now  in 


FROM  BALTIMORE  TU  PlIlI.ADELPIirA. 


61 


North  Point,  13  miles  from  Baltimore,  is  the  spot 
whoie  the  British  troops  landed  in  Sept.  1814,  and 
where  a  battle  was  fought,  simultaneous  with  a  naval 
attack  on  Fort  M'Henry.  The  engagement  resulted 
ill  the  defeat  of  the  British,  and  the  death  of  their  com- 
mander. Gen.  Ross. 

From  this  point  until  reaching  Turkey  Point,  at  the 
mouth  of  Elk  river,  the  Chesapeake  presents  a  broad 
expanse  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  interspersed  with 
an  occasionl  island  ;  of  which  Pool's  is  the  largest 
and  the  most  picturesque.  On  approaching  the  mouth 
of  the  Elk  river,  the  broad  entrance  of  the  Susqutihan- 
nah  is  seen  at  the  left ;  near  which  is  discerned  tho 
village  of  Havre  de  Grace,  which  was  burnt  during  tho 
last  war.     Eight  miles  from  Turkey  Point,  up  the  Elk 


progress,  and  will  ultimately  be  effected.  It  will  not 
only  shorten  the  route  about  20  miles,  but  will  obviate 
many  of  the  difficulties  of  a  winter  passage  through  the 
Chesapeake  Bay  and  up  the  Delaware  river.  The  city 
of  Wilmington,  on  this  route,  is  a  port  of  entry,  and 
the  largest  town  in  the  state  of  Delaware.  It  is  situ- 
ated between  Christiana  nnd  Brandywine  Creeks,  one 
milo  above  their  confluence,  and  two  miles  west  of  the 
Delaware  river.  The  great  facilities  aflbidcd  here  make 
it  an  important  manufacturing  town  ;  it  having  some 
of  the  finest  flouring  mills  and  cotton  factories  in  the 
union.  It  contains  from  10  to  12,000  inhabitants,  a 
spacious  alms  house,  3  banks,  a  U.  S.  arsenal,  and  9 
churches.  An  ancient  building,  called  the  old  Sweilish 
church,  erected  in  1698,  stands  near  the  Christiana 
creek  in  this  town ;  opposite  to  which  is  an  ancient 
church  yard,  used  by  the  first  settlers  of  the  place.  It 
contains  a  few  tomb  stones,  the  inscriptions  of  which 
ire  nearly  defaced  by  the  haNd  of  time. 


I    I 

: 


I 


Hi 


FROM  UALTIMOKB  TO    riULAUELMllA. 


river,  the  entrance  of  Back  creek,  connected  with  thr 
Chusapcako  and  Delaware  Canal,  is  seen  at  tiio  right.* 
At  French  Town,  passengers  leave  the  steam  boat 
(their  baggage  having  been  previously  placed  in  bag- 
gage waggons,)  and  take  the  carriages  of  the  Rail 
Road,  which  extends  to  New  Castle,  on  the  Delaware, 
a  distance  of  16^  miles,  being  but  853  yards  more  than 
would  be  a  perfectly  straight  line  drawn  from  one  end 
to  the  other.  It  is  composed  of  six  curves  and  six 
straight  lines,  three  of  the  curves  deflecting  to  the  north 


*  Until  the  construction  of  the  French  Town  and 
New  Castle  rail  road,  the  route  of  travellers  was  gene- 
rally through  this  canal,  in  packets  fitted  up  for  the  pur- 
pose. It  is  now,  however,  used  principally  for  sloops 
plying  between  the  Chesapeake  Bay  and  Delaware 
river.  Back  Creek,  a  narrow  and  tortuous  stream,  is 
pursued  for  3  miles  to  a  village  called  Chesapeake  City, 
where  the  canal  commences,  which  is  14  miles  long,  33 
feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  60  feet  at  the  surface.  It 
is  calculated  for  the  passage  of  vessels  drawing  8  feet 
of  water,  though  the  banks  are  constructed  so  as  to  re- 
tain 10  feet,  if  necessary.  There  are  two  tide  and  two 
litl  locks,  and  the  summit  level  is  a  little  more  than  9 
miles  long,  and  10  feet  above  ordinary  flood  tide.  Be- 
tween 2  and  3  miles  from  Chesapeake  village  com- 
mences what  is  called  the  Deep  Cut.  Its  length  is 
nearly  four  miles,  and  the  embankments  vary  from  8 
to  70  feet  in  heighth.  To  furnish  something  of  an  idea 
of  the  magnitude  of  the  work,  it  is  stoted  that  the  earth 
excavated  to  form  this  part  of  the  canal  and  the  neces- 
sary drains  was  more  than  90  millions  of  cubic  feet. 
At  the  greatest  elevation  a  most  imposing  work,  called 
Summit  Bridge,  has  been  extended  across.  It  is  built 
on  a  hard  firm  bank  where  the  original  surface  attains 
an  elevation  of  65  feet,  above  which  the  abutments  arc 
built  20  feet  in  thickness.    The  sides  of  the  canal 


h 


■i 


I'illA. 


KROM  BALTIMOHB   TU   I'HILADEI.rdf A. 


B.*? 


3ctcd  with  tlif 
I  at  tiie  right.  ^ 
le  steam  boat 
placed  in  bag- 
s  of  the  Rail 
the  Delaware, 
,rds  more  than 
I  from  one  end 
urvcs  and  six 
ig  to  the  north 

ch  Town  and 

lers  was  gene- 

up  for  the  pur- 

ttlly  for  sloops 

and  Delaware 

L>us  stream,  is 

Dsapeakc  City, 

miles  long,  33 

le  surface.    It 

Irawing  8  feet 

ed  so  as  to  re- 

0  tide  and  two 

e  more  than  9 

)od  tide.    Be- 

village  com- 

Its  length  is 

I  vanr  from  8 

ing  01  an  idea 

that  the  earth 

ind  the  neces- 

of  cubic  feet. 

work,  called 

s.    It  is  built 

urface  attains 

hutments  arc 

of  the  canal 


t'lji 


and  lhrc(!  lo  the  soutli.  At  two  puints  tho  excavation 
was  attended  with  great  (lifTiculty  and  cxpcnsCjCspccinlly 
at  the  western  tcrininatiun  of  the  road,  where  the  cut- 
ting was  37  feet  deep,  through  a  solid  mass  of  tough 
red  and  black  clay  for  a  considerable  distance. 

The  superstrncturo  of  the  road  is  formed  partly  of 
stone  blocks,  and  partly  of  substantial  white  oak  sleep- 
ers, upon  which  arc  laid  and  secured  in  the  m  st  ap- 
proved manner,  the  string  pieces  or  rails,  of  Georgia 
pitch  pine,  6  inches  square ;  on  the  top  of  these  are 


below  the  abutments  are  ])rojected  by  a  slope  wall  laid 
from  tho  bottom  of  the  canal  to  the  top  of  the  bank, 
fro?n  six  to  two  foot  in  thickness.  The  floor  of  the 
bridge  is  90  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  canal ;  ex- 
treme length  2S0  feet.  Independently  of  the  interest 
excited  by  the  bridge,  the  view  of  the  canal  from  its 
commanding  height  is  grand  beyond  description.  A 
flight  of  steps  has  been  erected,  to  facilitate  the  ascent 
from  the  tow  path  up  the  bank. 

After  leaving  the  Deep  Cut,  the  canal  enters  what 
is  called  The  Old  Mill  Pmid,  three  miles  beyond  the 
Cranberry  Marshes.  Three  miles  farther  arc  the  St. 
George's  Marshes,  the  forming  of  the  banks  of  the  canal 
through  which  was  an  immense  labor.  The  specific 
gravity  of  the  earth  used  for  the  purpose  cxcceJing  that 
of  the  surrounding  marshes,  it  sunk  in  muhy  jjiaces  as 
fast  as  it  could  be  carted  on,  and  in  some  instances  it  is 
calculated  to  have  gone  to  a  depth  of  fiom  60  to  80  feet, 
and  in  one  place  100  feet  below  the  original  surface, 
raising  many  acres  of  tho  adjacent  niarahes  several  feet 
above  their  original  h  vel. 

At  the  eastern  termination  of  the  canal,  the  City  of 
Delaware  has  sprung  up  like  many  of  the  flourishing 
villages  on  the  banks  of  the  Erie  canal  in  New- York» 
and  will  probably  become  a  place  of  considerable  im- 
portance. 


1/ 


:'!TF.-f 


til 


I'nUM  IIALTIMUHR  TO  nill.AHKLI'IIIA. 


iiistcnod  tlu;  iron  bnrs  'i.J  inrlit'H  wiiio  hy  j{l.ii.s  of  an 
iiiolil.h'u'k,  vvillt  iriiii  pliiluu  Ituiioutii  tliuiii  al  liiu  puinln 
of  tlicir  junction. 

'I'lio  blocks  ai'O  laitl  thi't'o  fuct  apa il  /romc/nt/'r;  (o 
(cn/n*,  tuid  buddoil  in  holoH  Uvo  foci  dorp  and  Ivvu  lout 
ti((Uuro,  upon  puro  Hand  or  ^ravi^l  woli  rannnud  ;  and 
wboru  sluopors  aro  \\^\.\\  on  tbu  onibankniontH,  &c..  tboy 
uro  laid  at  tito  Hunio  dinlanoc  apart,  i:i\\  hIIIh  of  bondoc.k, 
I'o'jr  inclios  tliick  by  ci^ditincbuH  wi(bf,  plaiMul  bin/i^ituib- 
nally,  wbicb  aro,  in  liko  niannor,  bcdtbul  in  IntncbcHlill- 
cd  with  sand  or  gravol  well  rammed — iIu-ho  subHtancus 
being  sin)j»osed  to  furnish  tlio  Hurcst  Halo'^nard  against 
injury  from  frost. 

Thu  total  coHt  of  tho  Now  Castlo  and  Fnjncli  Town 
rail  road,  including  tho  land  for  itH  location,  wharven, 
land  nt  depots  and  both  ends,  locomotive  cngincH,  pas- 
senger and  burthen  cars  auflicieutt(»put  it  in  cnni])lctc 
operation,  with  a  singlu  track  and  the  recpiisito  number 
of  turn  outs,  has  buun  ostimatod  at  about  Jow  hundred 
tlwumnd  dollars, 

Tho  road  was  commenced  in  July,  1830,  and  cum- 
ivletod  in  1832. 

The  ancient  town  of  Nrw  Casti.r,  at  which  the  road 
tcrminntcs,  still  retains  one  of  its  original  buildings,  tho 
date  of  which,  in  figures  of  iron  on  tho  gable  end,  shows 
llu>*  it  was  erected  in  1087.  Tho  town  was  settled  by  tho 
iSwedos,  many  of  whoso  descendants  still  continue  to 
reside  tiioro,  and  retain  the  plain  frank  manner  and 
thinking  habits  of  their  ancestors.  Hy  means  of  a  loco- 
motive engine,  passengers  are  enabled  to  cross  the 
peninsula  in  one  hour  with  caao,  thereby  shortening 
tlie  timo  between  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia  2^  hours, 


^'^i 


ririi.AnRLrfriA. 


G& 


At,  New  CiiKtJo,  a  Htniini  bont  is  n^":?!!!!  f.ikcri,  wliich 
|)roc<M«lH  up  tlio  Dcliiwuro  :ir»  iriilos,  imsHiii.ij  tlio  cil y  <.i 
Wilinin«rtoti,  wliicli  in  Hncn  at,  a  (liMl.incf!  on  \ho  h  I'f, 
and  tin;  villii;,'('H  of  fUiciHlor,  La'/arclto,  Fort  Mi  (Hi  n  on 
an  inhiiMl  iti  Ihu  Dfiliiwaic!,  arul  Cilouctj.stor,  lo 


1830,  and  com- 


PH1T.AI)KM>HTA, 

The  flourishing:,'  capital  of  I'tinnnylvania.  It  stands 
on  tlio  wo«t  baid<  of  th(;  river  Dohiwart;,  fivorniloM  from 
itH  coiiHiuMux'  with  Iho  Schuylkill,  which  forms  its  wcm- 
torn  boundary.  ThiH  city  wa.s  founded  in  IfiS'i,  and 
incorporated  in  1701.  The  charter  i)cin^  abro^nitod  at 
the  r(!VohUion,  it  rcnutincd  under  a  j)rovincial  novern- 
ment  till  1780,  when  it  was  incorporated  a  second  time. 
Its  [)()pidation  in  1830,  includin*,'  its  sn!)url»s,  was  107,- 
811.  The  city  is  built  on  streets  from  50  to  100  feet  in 
wi(hh,  running  [)arallel  and  at  ri<fht  angles  to  eacii  other. 
They  arc  handsomely  paved  and  are  kept  remarkably 
clean.  The  houses  exhibit  an  appearance  of  ncatnesrt, 
uniformity  and  commodiousness,  and  many  of  them  are 
ornamented  with  white  marble.  Airainst  the  city, 
which  is  90  miles  distant  from  the  sea,  the  Delaware  is 
about  a  mile  wide,  and  is  navipablo  for  ships  of  a  larjire 
pi7.e.  The  most  conspicuous  huiUiinj^s  are  the  churches, 
the  state  house,  the  United  States  and  Pennsylvania 
J^anKs,  the  Girard  Rank,  and  the  Institution  for  tho 
Ocaf  and  Dumb.  The  Bank  of  the  U.  S.  was  csta!)- 
lished  in  the  year  1816,  with  a  capital  of  $35,000,000; 
but  its  charter  not  having  been  renewed  at  its  expira- 
tion in  1836,  it  was  incorporated  by  the  state  of  Penn- 
sylvania in  the  early  part  of  that  year.  The  banking 
house  is  a  splendid  structure,  built  on  the  plan  of  the 


6G 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Parthenon  at  Athens,  and  is  situated  in  a  north  and 
south  direction,  fronting  on  Chestnut  and  Library 
streets,  having  8  fluted  columns,  4  feet  6  inches  in  di- 
ameter, embracing  the  whole  front.  From  each  of  the 
fronts  are  porticos,  projecting  10  feet  6  inches.  The 
whole  length  of  the  edifice,  including  the  portico,  is  161 
feet,  and  its  breadth  in  front  87  feet.  The  main  en- 
trance is  from  Chestnut  street,  by  a  flight  of  six  marble 
steps,  extending  along  the  whole  front  of  the  portico. 
The  banking  room  occupies  the  centre  of  the  building, 
being  48  feet  wide  and  81  feet  long.  The  whole  body 
of  the  building  is  arched  in  a  bomb  proof  manner,  from 
the  cellar  to  the  roof,  which  is  covered  with  copper. 

There  are  in  this  city  90  houses  for  public  worship  ; 
14  banks,  7  insurance  companies,  a  custom  house,  an 
exchange,  and  a  chamber  of  commerce. 

The  New  Bank  of  Pennsylvania  is  an  extensive 
and  elegant  edifice  of  marble,  of  the  Ionic  order,  and 
constructed  after  the  model  o/  ti;c  ancient  temple  of  the 
muses,  on  the  Ilyssus. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  one  of  the  oldest 
and  most  respectable  institutions  of  that  description  in 
the  Union. 

The  State  House,  in  which  the  continental  congress 
sat,  and  from  whence  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
issued,  is  still  standing.  It  is  located  in  Chestnut  street, 
is  built  of  brick,  comprising  a  centre  and  two  wings, 
and  has  undergone  no  material  alteration  since  its  first 
erection.  It  has  a  venerable  appearance,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  cupola,  having  a  clock,  the  dial  of  which 
is  glass,  and  is  illuminated  at  night  until  10  or  11 
o'clock,  showing  the  hour  and  minutes  until  that  time. 


I 


I 


PUlLADEl.PItlA. 


67 


in  a  north  and 
it  and  Library 
:  6  inches  in  di- 
rom  each  of  the 
6  inches.  The 
le  portico,  is  161 

The  main  en- 
;ht  of  six  marble 
t  of  the  portico, 
of  the  building, 
rhe  whole  bodv 
af  manner,  from 
with  copper, 
public  worship ; 
3tom  house,  an 

is  an  extensive 
Dnic  order,  and 
nt  temple  of  the 

le  of  the  oldest 
it  description  in 

nental  congress 

of  Independence 

hestnut  street, 

.nd  two  wings, 

)n  since  its  first 

ce,  and  is  sur- 

tie  dial  of  which 

until  10  or  11 

until  that  time. 


The  front  is  a  considerable  distance  back  from  the 
street,  the  walk  being  paved  to  the  curb-stone  with 
brick,  and  two  elegant  rows  of  trees  extending  its  whole 
length.  East  of  the  main  entrance,  in  the  front  room, 
the  sessions  of  congress  were  held,  and  the  question  of 
independence  decided.  The  declaration  was  first  pub- 
licly read  from  the  balcony  fronting  the  spacious  park 
in  the  rear. 

The  Arcade  in  Philadelphia,  like  that  at  N.  York, 
has  proved  a  bad  speculation — though  the  former  is 
twice  the  size  of  the  latter,  and  appears  to  be  more  de- 
serted. It  contains  Peale's  Museum,  one  of  the  best  in 
the  United  States,  comprising  the  most  complete  skel- 
eton of  the  Mammoth  perhaps  in  the  world.  It  is  per- 
fect, with  the  exception  of  a  few  bones,  which  have 
been  supplied  by  imitating  the  others.  This  skeleton 
tvas  found  in  Ulster  county,  New- York. 

The  Academy  of  Arts,  in  Chestnut-street,  contains 
a  large  number  of  paintings,  several  of  which  are  the 
property  of  Joseph  Bonaparte.  Among  these  is  one, 
executed  by  David,  representing  Napoleon  crossing  the 
Alps.  Another  is  a  full  length  portrait  of  Joseph  him- 
self,  as  king  of  Spain. 

The  U.  S.  Mint,  established  here,  is  in  a  new  and 
handsome  edifice  recently  constructed  for  that  pur- 
pose. 

The  City  Library  was  first  established  through  the 
enterprise  and  influence  of  Franklin  in  1731.  It  is 
located  in  a  neat  and  ornamental  edifice  on  the  east  side 
of  Fifth  street,  opposite  the  State  House  Square,  and 
contains  about  24,000  volumes,  besides  the  Loganian 


C8 


PHILADELPHIA. 


library  of  ancient  classics  of  about  1 1,000  volumes,  un* 
der  the  same  roof. 

The  Atheneum,  on  the  second  floor  of  the  Philosoph" 
ical  Hall  in  Fifth  ptreet,  contains  5300  volumes  and  a 
variety  of  newspapers  from  various  parts  of  the  union. 
There  are  also  deposited  here  a  series  of  rare  and  valu- 
able pamphlets,  forming  140  volumes,  which  belonged 
to  Doct.  Franklin;  many  of  which  are  enriched  with 
his  MS.  notes.  Strangers  are  admitted  to  this  insti- 
tution, on  being  introduced  by  a  subscriber,  and  a  re- 
gister of  their  names  is  kept. 

The  American  Philosophical  Society  was  founded  in 
1743,  principally  by  the  exertion '  of  Doct.  Franklin. 
The  members  have  a  large  and  commodious  building 
on  apart  of  the  State  House  Square, in  which  they  have 
deposited  about  6000  volumes  of  valuable  books,  and  a 
collection  of  objects  of  natural  history,  consisting  prin* 
cipally  of  minerals  and  fossil  remains.  The  Presidents 
of  the  society  have  been  Benjamin  Franklin,  David 
Rittenhouse,  Thomas  Jefflerson,  Caspar  Wistar,  Rob- 
ert Patterson  and  William  Tilghman. 

The  University  of  Fennsilvania  is  situated  in 
Ninth  street,  between  Chestnut  and  Market  streets.  It 
was  founded  in  1750,  and  is  in  a  highly  prosperous  and 
flourishing  condition. 

GiRARD  College.  This  splendid  edifice  is  situated 
on  the  Ridge  Road,  on  a  site  owned  by  the  late  Stephen 
Girard,  ttnd  devised  by  him  for  that  purpose.  To  his 
munificence,  indeed,  are  the  pubUc  indebted  for  the 
structure  and  for  a  fund  for  its  maintenance.  The 
building  is  111  by  163  feet,  3  stories  high,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  portico  21  feet  wide,  giving  to  the  whole  a 


I 


f 
\ 

'J 


X 


PHILADELPHIA. 


69 


le  Philosoph* 
olnmosand  a 

of  the  union, 
are  and  valu- 
lich  belonged 
inriched  with 

to  this  insti- 
bcr,  and  a  re- 

is  founded  in 
)ct.  Franklin, 
lions  building 
lich  they  have 
3  books,  and  a 
Insisting  prin- 

le  Presidents 
inklin,  David 
Wistar,  Rob- 
is  situated  in 

et  streets.  It 
[•osperous  and 


neatness  and  elegance  higl  ly  cre.lilable  to  the  taste  of 
those  who  had  the  management  of  its  construction. 

Wills'  Hospital,  erected  pursuant  to  the  will  of  the 
late  James  Wills,  for  the  reception  of  the  lame  and 
blind,  is  located  on  Race  street,  between  Schuylkill 
fourth  and  fifth  streets,  and  is  a  handsome  stone  edifice, 
80  feet  in  front. 

Thd  United  States'  Naval  Asylum  is  situated  on 
the  river  Schuylkill,  a  short  distance  below  the  junction 
of  South  street  with  Gray's  ferry  road.  It  is  385 
feet  in  front,  including  a  central  building,  and  is  an  im- 
posing and  chaste  edifice.  It  is  designed  as  a  place  of 
permanent  abode  for  such  of  the  officers,  seamen  and 
marines  of  the  navy  as  may  need  a  home  in  their  retire- 
ment from  its  service.  It  is  suflficiently  capacious  to 
accommodate  400. 

The  New  Alms  House  consists  of  four  distinct  edi- 
fices disposed  at  right  angles  with  one  another,  enclos- 
ing an  interior  space  of  700  by  500  feet.  The  location 
of  these  buildings  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Schuylkill 
river.  The  grounds  appended  to  the  establishment  are 
spacious,  and  the  arrangements  such  as  might  be  anti- 
cipated from  the  hospitality  and  benevolence  for  which 
the  inhabitants  of  this  city  have  become  so  prov  'bial. 

The  PiTiLADELPinA  Exchange  is  situated  on  atrian- 
gular  piece  of  ground,  bounded  by  Third,  Walnut  and 
Dock  streets,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  specimens 
of  Grecian  architecture  e\c:  executed  in  America, 
representing  in  its  appearance  the  celebra .  d  Lantern 
of  Demosthenes  at  Athens.  The  basement  contains 
the  post  office  and  several  insurance  and  other  oiKces. 
The  exchange  room,  which  is  bold  and  efiective,  occu> 


m 


ro 


PHILADELPHIA. 


the  cj.'Ujtem  end  of  the 


cxicndii 


princip!^?.  s:o 

across  the  whole  building,  and  is  approa.'>ii'.d  by  flights 
of  stops  on  each  side  of  the  semicircular  ba^emert,  aou 
from  the  hall  in  the  basenaenv  story.  The  eastern  pcf- 
tico  forms  an  interestiru;  promt/iade  Ui  those  who  visit 
the  Exchange.  From  ii  .nay  be  seen  the  shipping  at 
Walnut  street  wharf,  tho  cnstom  house,  the  Gfard 
bank,  and  the  Pciinsylvanin  bank.  The  reading  ioom 
is  adjacent  to  the  exchange  r«>om,.  and  is  sup-i  ;d  with 
a  grcR  t  variety  of  papers.  The  foundation  of  this  edifice, 
wh  ii  tvas  bviilt  by  the  merchants  of  Philadelphia,  was 
Liin  in  1832.  it  is  a  noble  structure,  and  worthy  of  the 
munificeice  and  enterprise  of  its  public  spirited  found- 
ers. From  this  point  omnibuses  can  be  taken  at  all 
times  for  various  parts  of  the  city. 

Of  the  public  works  of  Philadelphia,  there  are  none  of 
which  its  inhabitants  are  more  justly  proud  than  those 
at  Fair  Mount,  by  which  the  city  is  supplied  with  wa- 
ter of  the  best  quality,  in  tho  greatest  plenty.  Fair 
Mount  is  in  the  rear  of  the  city  upon  the  bank  of  the 
Schuylkill,  the  neighborhood  of  which  affords  a  variety 
of  romantic  scenery.  The  situation  is  such  as  pecu- 
liarly adapts  it  for  the  purpose  to  which  it  has  been  de- 
voted. The  reservoirs  are  situated  on  the  top  of  a  hill 
rising  from  the  river,  a  part  of  it  perpendicular  rock ,  'ip- 
ward3  of  one  hundred  feet.  The  ascent  from  the  river 
to  the  reservoirs  is  by  a  flight  of  substantial  wooden 
steps,  with  resting  places,  over  one  of  which  is  a  tem- 
ple. The  reservoirs,  which  are  sut  r^tu  nded  with  a  pale 
fence,  outside  of  which  is  a  grave'  v/alk,  contain  up- 
WR'-'^s  of  twelve  millions  of  .7>»llo  supplying  the  city 
thr  -!)|;h  between  15  and  20  r  ]{■■>  h  pipes.    The  water 


■^i 


m 
1 

4"' 


:i 


PHILADELPHIA. 


71 


I 


was  formerly  forced  to  the  reservoirs  by  steam,  which 
IS  no  longer  used  ;  it  is  now  raised  by  machinery  pro- 
pelled by  the  Schuylkill.  The  machinery  is  simple, 
and  is  turned  by  larjre  water  wheels,  of  which  there  are 
five,  one  of  them  of  iron  of  24  tons  weight.  Their  speed 
may  be  j^raduated  to  any  required  number  of  revolu- 
tions per  minute  ;  and  if  all  arc  in  motion,  they  will 
raise  seven  millions  of  jL^iHons  in  24  hours.  To  turn 
them,  the  ISchuylUill  has  been  dammed  its  vi'hole breadth, 
by  which  the  water  is  thrown  back  into  a  reservoir 
lock,  whence  it  is  admitted  as  required  to  operate  upon 
the  wheels,  and  is  discharged  into  the  river  below  the 
dam.  The  whole  expense  of  these  works,  including 
estimated  cost  of  works  abandoned,  was  $1,783,000. 
That  required  to  keep  them  in  operation  is  compara- 
tively trifling.  The  quantity  of  water  thus  disseminated 
through  the  city,  is  not  only  sufficient  for  every  family, 
but  is  used  to  wash  the  streets.  It  is  of  immense 
service  in  case  of  fire,  as  it  is  only  necessary  to  screw 
the  hose  to  hydrants,  which  are  placed  at  convenient 
distances,  to  secure  a  constant  stream  of  sufficient  force 
to  reach  an  ordinary  height. 

The  jNavy  VaPvD  (on  the  Delaware)  receives  the  vis- 
its of  strangers  Liore  particularly  in  consequence  of  the 
immense  vessel,  the  Pennsylvania,  there  constructing. 
Her  length  on  deck  is  225  feet,  and  her  breadth  53  feet. 
She  is  large  enough  to  carry  2000  men — a  larger 
nurr.'  r  'hin.  the  v.  bole  American  army  that  fought  and 
g-  '  led  the  baule  <  f  Chippewa,  and  greater  than  the  po|)- 
,.'iation  of  a  considerable  sized  country  town.  She  is  of 
the  burthen  cf  3000  tons,  ana  could,  if  loaded  with  tiour, 
carry  a  c^rgo  of  thirty  thousand  barrels,  enough  to  sup" 
p2 


72 


philahelphia. 


m 


n% 


ply  bread  for  fifteen  thousand  people  for  a  whole  yenr. 
She  is  to  carry  140  cnns,  32  ponndcrs,  so  that  every  time 
she  discharges  a  full  broadsido,  she  will  dispose  of  pre- 
cisely a  ton  ofhdlets.  8he  will  draw  28  feet  of  water, 
and  thus  find  it  diflficult  to  navigate  in  shoal  rivers. 
One  of  her  anchors,  to  be  seen  in  the  yard,  is  said  to  be 
the  largest  in  the  world,  weighing  11,669  pounds,  which 
is  something  more  than  five  tons. 

The  New  Penitentiary,  located  on  elevated  ground 
near  the  city,  is  designed  to  carry  the  principle  of  soli- 
tary confinement  completely  into  etTect.  Ten  acres  of 
land  are  occupied  for  the  purpose,  forming  a  square  of 
650  feet  each  way,  and  enclosed  by  massy  walls  of 
granite,  35  feet  high,  with  towers  and  battlements.  The 
prison  is  in  the  cer  tre  of  the  square,  and  is  admirably 
calculated  for  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  designed. 
The  expense  incurred  in  its  erection  was  upwards  of 
$300,000. 

The  principal  Hotels  in  the  city  are,  the  United  States 
Hotel,  opposite  the  U.  S.  Bank  in  Chestnut  street ; 
Congress  Hall,  Chestnut  street,  near  T'lird  ;  Tremont 
House,  between  Third  and  Fourth  streets  ;  City  Ho- 
tel, Third  street,  between  Market  and  Arch  ;  North 
American  Hotel,  Chestnut  street,  between  Sixth  and 
Seventh  ;  Mansion  House  Hotel,  Third  street,  between 
Walnut  and  Spruce;  Red  Lion  Inn,  Market  street, 
between  Sixth  and  Seventh ;  Commercial  Hotel,  Chest- 
nut ctreet ;  White  l?waii  Hotel,  Race  street,  between 
Third  amd  Fourth  ;  Indian  Clueen  Hotel,  Fourth  st. ; 
Washington  Hotel,  do.;  Philadelphia  Hotel,  Second 
street ;  Second  Street  House,  do. ;  Third  Street  Hous«, 


PHILADEI.PHIA. 


7S 


evated  ground 
nciple  of  soli- 
Ten  acres  of 
ng  a  square  cf 
lassy  walls  of 
tlements.  The 
\  is  admirably 
was  designed, 
as  upwards  of 

United  States 
stnut  street ; 
ird;  Tremont 
ts ;  City  Ho- 
Arch;  North 
en  Sixth  and 
reet,  between 
larket  street, 
Hotel,  Chest- 
reet,  between 
!l,  Fourth  St.  ; 
lotel,  Second 
Street  House, 


Third  Stroot ;  Broad  Street  House,  Broad  street ;  Phil- 
adelphia House,  Chestnut  street. 

Private  Boarding  Houses. — Mrs.  Crim,  108  Walnut 
street;  Mrs.  Spencer,  Library  and  Fifth  street ;  Mrs. 
Israel,  91  South  Fifth  street;  Mrs.  Allihonc,  Fourth 
and  Willing's  Alley  ;  Mrs.  Newlin,  98  hiouth  Third 
street ;  Mrs.  Wilson,  121  Chestnut  street ;  Mrs.  Hays, 
Third  and  WiUing's  Alley. 

The  banks  of  the  Schuylkill,  near  Philadelphia,  con- 
tain numerous  elegant  country  scats,  and  several  pub- 
lic buildings.  Among  the  private  residences,  none  are 
perhaps  more  justly  admired  than  that  of  Henry  Pratt, 
Esq.  on  Lemon  Hill.  The  Mansion  House  is  situated 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  and  directly  above  the 
Fair  Mount  Water  Works,  about  a  mile  from  the  city. 
Connected  with  the  mansion  are  gardens --f  the  most 
extensive  kind,  laid  out  in  a  style  of  r  idi  elegance  and 
taste.  To  these  gardens  respectable  citizens  and  stran- 
gcra  have  free  access  ;  and  a  ride  to  them  is  among  the 
various  pleasant  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city. 

The  Shot  Tower  of  Mr.  Beck  is  also  an  object  of 
much  curiosity  to  strangers  visiting  Philat^olphia.  It 
stands  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  in  the  rear  of 
the  city,  and  is  a  lofty  edifice,  from  the  top  of  which  a 
very  extensive  view  can  be  had  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

The  Penn  Monument,  commemorative  of  the  spot 
where  William  Penn,  the  founder  of  the  colony  of 
Poniijylvania,  made  a  treaty  with  the  aborigines,  is 
near  the  intersection  of  Beach  and  Hanover  streets. 

Ster.'"'      .ats  leave  Philadelphia  every  morning  at  6 
,   5Uf  d:  ys  excepted,  tor  Baltimore  and  New- 
York. 


'ii;i 


74 


INTrUNAl.  IMPUOVKMENTS. 


The  Piui.ADELPHi.v  and  Liverpoo'.  Packets,  wliirh 
arc  u.'.t  (.<;  'utly  fittffl  up,  sail  Troni  Philadelphia  on  the 
20th  uiid  iVom  Liverpool  on  thu  8th  of  each  month. 

In  the  NEW  LINE  BY  WAT  OF  tsAVANNAii,  the  packct.s 
sail  from  Philadelphia  the  20th  of  each  month. 

INT'^n:.-*^   J  >IPr  .'^■VEMENTS. 

The  first  turnpike  in  America  was  made  in  Pennsyl- 
vania; and  the  state  at  this  time  contains  near  3000 
miles  of  turnpike  roads,  at  a  cost  of  about  $8,000,000. 
Among  the  bridges  built  across  its  principal  rivers,  for- 
ty-live are  estimated  to  havfi  cost  $3,000,000  ;  and  more 
than  $20,000,000  have  been  expended  within  the  slate 
on  canals  and  rail  roads* 

The  Union  Canal  was  commenced  about  43  yeara 
since,  by  a  private  company  ;  but  havi^.  to  encounter 
the  expense  of  an  extensive  tunnel  at  the  summit,  of 
236  yards  in  length,  and  an  insufficiency  of  water  for 
the  western  section,  which  is  drawn  up  twenty  feet  by 
a  steam  engine,  it  was  partially  abandoned  ;  but  since 
the  complotioii  and  successful  operation  of  the  Eric  and 
Champlain  canals,  and  a  stimulus  having  been  produc- 
ed hi  Pcnnsylvani  ,  this  canal  was  re-commenced  and 
completed,  and  is  in  successful  operation.  It  commen- 
ces near  Reading  on  the  Schuylkill  river,  51  miles 
north-west  of  Philadelphia,  and  extends  thence  in  a 
westerly  direction  to  Lebanon,  and  thence  along  the 
Swatara  creek  to  iviiddletown,  on  the  Susquehannah 
river,  nine  n  i  be^  >w  Harrisburgh,  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment of  the  state. 

The  length  of  the  canal  is  79  miles  ;  the  water  for 
the  principal  supply  of  the  eastern  section,  a  distance  ot 


"V^fvr-ynir'.Jtv 


PENNSYLVANIA    CA.N'AL. 


73 


Packets,  whirh 
ladrlphia  on  the 
:ach  month. 
All,  the  packets 
month. 

rs. 

ade  in  Pennsyl- 
ains  near  3000 
)out  $8,000,000. 
oipal  rivors,  for- 
>,000 ;  and  more 
within  the  slate 

about  43  years 
n.:  to  encounter 

the  summit,  of 
icy  of  water  for 

twenty  feet  by 
)ned  ;  but  since 

of  the  Eric  and 
\g  been  produc- 
ommenccd  and 

n.  It  commen- 
river,  51  rnilea 
ds  thence  in  a 
lencc  along  the 

Susquehannah 

he  seat  of  gov- 

the  water  for 
in,  a  distance  ot 


40  miles,  is  drawn  from  the  Tulpehocken  river,  a  branch 
of  the  Schuylkill.  The  lockage  on  this  section  is  27tt 
feet  in  53  locks  :  the  locks  are  of  various  lifts,  and  cost 
$650  per  foot.  The  western  section  extends  39  miles, 
having  a  lockage  of  226  feet  in  37  locks,  besides  an 
expensive  tunnel.. 

By  a  law  of  the  Pennsylvania  legislature,  chartering 
the  Union  Canal  Company,  passed  in  1826,  they  were 
prohibited  from  erecting  any  works  which  should  pre- 
vent the  descent  of  rafts  in  the  channel  of  the  Swatara 
river.  This  provision  having  been  repealed  in  1829,  the 
company  subsequently  resolved  on  extending  the  canal 
to  a  point  at  or  near  the  village  of  Pine  Grove,  about 
four  miles  from  what  is  called  "  The  Coal  Region,"  and 
to  complete  the  route  to  the  mines  by  rail  roads. 

By  mean?  of  the  Union  Canal  and  the  Schuylkill 
slack  w  ater  navigation,  there  is  also  a  communication 
from  Philadelphia  to  the  Susquehannah  river;  and  this 
rommunication  is  greatly  extended  by  means  of  the 

Pennsylvania  Canal,  which  commences  at  Colum- 
bia, 80  miles  north-west  of  P.iiladelphia,  and  unites 
with  the  Union  Canal  at  Middletown,  18  miles  farther. 
From  thence  it  proceeds  in  a  westerly  direction  to  the 
Juniata — thence  up  that  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Allegha- 
ny mountains,  which  are  crossed  by  a  rail  road,  37  nilles 
long ;  at  the  end  of  which  the  canal  re-commencofj, 
uniting  with  the  Alleghany  and  Ohio  rivers  at  Pittb- 
J  burg.  The  whole  length  of  this  canal,  including  the 
rail  road  across  the  mountains,  is  311  miles,  and  the 
lockage  rising  of  1 1 00  feet.  After  reaching  the  Juniata, 
a  singularly  romantic  and  beautiful  stream,  the  canal 
winds  along  a  gentle  and  practicable  acclivity,  follow- 


78 


PENNSTLVANIA  CANAL. 


' 


«^-". 


ing  tho  bed  of  the  river  for  nearly  a  hundred  miles. 
Two  mighty  ranges  of  mountains  rise  from  the  limpid 
Juniata,  like  two  ffrocn  loaves  of  an  immense  opening 
volume.  ThesL>  monntain>',  apparently  arranged  to  the 
course  of'this  stream,  srem  ta  lie  almost  at  ri«^ht  angles 
to  tho  ;bci(  at  [)aralltl  rid^'C.^.  The  Juniata  finds  a  pas- 
s^<ic  by  a  very  (Miuable  and  pontic  declivity  through  all 
the  mountains  except  tho  last  ridge  that  parts  its  wa- 
ters from  fho.'.o  of  tho  Ohio.  More  beautiful  forms  of 
mountains  than  those  which  skirt  this  river,  can  no 
where  be  seen.  Sometimes,  for  many  miles  together, 
they  rise,  smooth,  verdant  and  unbroken,  by  equable 
^Ippes,  from  the  very  verge  of  the  stream  to  tho  heighth 
of  twelve  hundred  feet ;  and  here,  apparently,  when 
the  fountains  of  the  great  deep  were  broken  up,  the 
rocky  summits  of  the  mountains  were  dismembered  at 
the  same  time.  For  miles  together,  and  in  many  pla- 
ces the  whole  sides  of  the  grand  slope,  from  summit  to 
base,  are  strown  with  large  fragments  of  smooth  build- 
ing stone ;  and  it  is  inconceivable  how  smoothly  and 
completely  they  line  the  sides  of  these  mighty  hills. 
Layers  of  these  rocks  cover  thousands  of  acres,  for  a 
dept|i  apparently  of  forty  or  fifty  feet ;  and  for  a  con- 
siderabte  distance  the  road  is  formed  by  the  removal  of 
these  layers  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  the 
carriage  winding  its  way  many  hundred  feet  above  the 
canal,  which  is  p.^rpendicularly  below. 

In  other  places,  more  recent  slides  of  the  earth  and 
rocks  from  the  summits  of  the  mountains  have  cut  away 
a  visible  and  uniform  path,  sweeping  trees  and  every 
obstacle  before  it,  until  the  spoils  are  accumulated  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains.    Indeed  every  foot  of  this 


PENNSYLVANIA  CANALS. 


77 


route  of  a  hundred  miles  is  onrichod  witli  scenery  of 
unexampled  sublimity  ;  nnd  we  can  iiiiafiine  no  liitjher 
treat  for  the  tourist  than  a  passage  along  ita  banks, 
connectea  vvith  the  crossing  of  the  Alleghanios,  and  a 
trip  to  Pittsburg. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  the  state  has  completed 
a  canal  from  the  mctutli  of  the  Juniata  up  the  Suscjuc- 
hannah  to  the  forks  at  Nortlnunherlaud  ;  thence  up  the 
north  branch  of  the  latter,  via  Wilkesbarre,  to  tho 
mouth  of  the  Lackawana — length  110  miles.  Also,  a 
canal  from  Nortluimberland,  at  the  forks  of  tho  Susquc- 
hannah  up  the  west  branch  to  the  mouth  of  Bald  Eagle 
creek — length  GGJ  miles.  Also,  the  French  Creek 
feeder,  designed  to  supply  with  water  the  future  com- 
munication between  the  Ohio  river  and  Lake  Erie- 
length  (including  that  part  of  the  creek  rendered  navi- 
gable to  its  junction  with  the  Alleghany  river)  45  miles. 
Also,  a  canal  from  Bristol  to  i^aston  on  the  Delaware-**; 
length  60  miles.  This  is  tiie  channnl  by  which  the  ... 
coal  trade  of  the  Lehigh  reaches  Philadelphia.  Also,!!^;;-^**^*''' 
canal  from  the  confluence  of  the  Beaver  ''Vith  the  Ohio 
river,  20  miles  below  Pittsburg^  v.p  i lie  former  river  lo 
Newcastle — distance  about  25  miles.  This  is  the  com- 
mencement of  a  communication  bclwe?p  thn  Ohio  and 
Lake  Erie,  which  will  pursue  a  northerly  direction  up 
the  valley  of  the  Chenango  to  the  Summit  at  Con- 
neaut  Lake,  and  from  thence  to  the  lake  at  the  town  of 
Erie.  From  Newcastle  to  Erie  the  distance  will  be 
about  78  miles.  The  whole  extent  of  these  canals  is 
S83  miles. 

The  following  canals  belong  to  private  incorpora- 
tions :  The  Union  canal,  already  noticed  at  page  74  ; 


v-r 


'.«'i 


V8 


PROM  PHlLADELPtllA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


Branch  canal  and  feeder,  22  miles  long,  with  a  rail  road 
of  4  miles,  extending  to  the  Pine  Grove  coal  mineH,  be- 
longing to  the  same  company ;  tho  Schuylkill  canal, 
from  Philadelphia  up  the  Schuylkill  river,  intersecting 
the  Union  canal  at  Reading,  to  the  Schuylkill  coal  mines 
at  Mount  Carbon — length,  including  46  miles  of  slack 
water  in  the  river,  108  miles  ;  the  Lehigh  canal,  from 
EastoR  on  the  Delaware,  up  the  Lehigh  river  to  the  coal 
mines  at  Mauch  Chunk,  and  from  thence  to  Stoddarts* 
villt — length  46  miles  ;  a  part  of  the  Hudson  and  Del- 
aware canal,  from  Honesdale  on  the  Lackawaxen  to 
the  mouth  of  that  stream — about  20  miles  ;  Conestoga 
Navigation,  an  improvement  of  the  Conestoga  creek  by 
locks  and  dams,  from  its  mouth  to  tho  city  of  Lancas- 
ter, 14  miles ;  and  the  Codorus  Navigation,  an  im- 
provement of  the  Codorus  creek  from  its  mouth  to  the 
borough  of  York,  10  miles.  Making  the  total  dis- 
tance of  canal  navigation  now  in  use  in  the  state  about 
760  miles. 

The  state  has  also  constructed  the  Columbia,  Alle- 
ghany Portage,  and  Norristown  rail  roads,  which  are 
noticed  in  subsequent  pages  of  this  work. 


FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG,  PENN* 

393  miles. 
The  usual  and  most  interesting  route  is  by  the  Co- 
lumbia rail  road  and  Pennsylvania  canal,  as  foUowi : 


FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


79 


Miles. 
By  rail  rond. 
Prom  Philadelphia  to 
the  viaduct  across 

the  Schnylkill,....  3 

Buck's  tavern, 7 

Paoli, 9 

Downincrtown, 10 

Co;itsville, 10 

Mine  Ridge, 10 

Soudersburgh, 10 

Lancaster,  M 

Columbia 12 

By  canal. 

Marietta, 3 

Bainl)iidije, 8 

Middlcto'wn, 17 

Harrisburjtrh, 10 

M'Allisterstown,  ....  7 

Juniata  river,  ..-.>...  8 


Miles. 

Millerstown, 17 

Mifriin, 17 

Lewistown, 13 

Waynesburjih, 14 

Hamiltonvilie,.. 11 

Huntino:don, 7 

Petersburjgh, 8 

Aleximdria, 23 

Franksto'vn, 3 

By  mil  road, 
HoUidaysbnriih  to 

Johnstown, 37 

By  canal. 

Blairsville, 34 

Saltzburgh, 17 

Warren, 12 

Alleghany  river, 15 

Freeport, 2 

Pittsburg, 28 


The  Columbia  Rail  Road  commences  at  the  depot 
at  the  intersection  of  Vine  and  Broad  streets,  and  ex- 
tends up  the  valley  of  the  Schuylkill  through  Pratt's 
Garden  to  the  river,  which  is  crossed  3  miles  from  the 
city,  on  a  handsome  viaduct  1045  feet  long,  41  feet  wide, 
and  30  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  It  is  built 
on  six  piers,  and  in  addition  to  a  double  track  of  rail- 
way, affords  ample  convenience  for  ordinary  carriages 
and  foot  passcn.orers.  Immediately  succeeding  the  via- 
duct is  an  inclined  plane  2805  feel  long,  rising  1  foot  in 
15,  which  is  surmounted  by  means  of  a  stationary  steam 
engine,  placed  at  the  head.  The  line  of  the  road  passes 
from  thence  over  an  undulating  surface,  requiiing  heavy 
excavations  and  embankments,   through  portions  of 


80 


FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


Philadelphia,  Montgomery  and  Delaware  connlies,  till 
it  reaches  the  viaduct  of  Valley  creek,  which  is  a  wood- 
en structure  about  600  feet  long,  supported  on  piers 
from  35  to  55  feet  high.  Immediately  beyond  the 
viaduct  the  traveller  catches  the  first  glimpse  of  the 
Great  Chester  Valley,  long  esteemed  to  be  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  fertile  sections  of  the  state.  At  the 
distance  of  21  miles  from  Philadelphia,  the  line  is  in- 
tersected by  a  branch  road  leading  to  Westchester,  the 
cost  of  which  was  about  $35,000.  At  30  miles,  a  little 
to  the  south  of  Downingtown,  the  road  crosses  the 
East  Brandy  wine  by  a  viaduct  465  feet  long  and  25  feet 
high.  Some  distance  farther,  the  line  crosses  the  West 
Brandywine  by  a  viaduct  835  feet  long  and  72  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  water.  Still  ascending  the 
main  valley  of  Chester,  the  line  reaches  the  summit, 
which  divides  it  from  that  of  Lancaster.  This  place  is 
known  as  the  Deep  Cut  through  Mine  Hill,  and  it  is 
believed  that  for  its  size  there  is  not  another  instance  in 
this  country  of  similar  difficulties  of  execution.  The 
cut  originally  proposed  at  this  place  was  37  feet  deep 
and  half  a  mile  long,  but  owing  to  the  discouragini^'  na- 
ture of  the  ground,  abounding  with  slips,  springs  and 
quicksands,  it  became  necessary  in  order  to  diminish 
the  cutting  to  raise  the  grade,  which  theretofore  had 
seldom  exceeded  30  feet  per  mile,  to  45  feet ;  and  even 
then,  thouuh  at  only  8  or  10  feet  deep,  it  required  heavy 
piling  and  subi^tantial  platlorMis  b;  fore  the  ro:)d  could 
be  carried  through.  'I' hence  descindini!  thn  Lancaster 
valh^y,  the  road  c.osses  thePrqua,bya  viaduct  150 feet 
long  and  24  feet  high,  and  soon  afier,  Aiill  creek,  by  a 
similar  construction  550  feet  long  and  40  ieet  high. 


FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


91 


Thence  it  follows  the  general  features  of  the  country 
till  it  reaches  the  immense  viaduct  over  Conestoga  riv- 
er. The  piers  are  60  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  wa- 
ter, and  the  whole  length  of  the  platform  1412  feet. 
Not  long  after,  the  road  enters  Lancaster  by  a  high  em- 
bankment, the  materials  of  which  were  obtained  from 
the  deep  rock  cutting  in  the  town.  From  Lancaster 
the  line  passes  through  a  beautiful  section  of  the  coun- 
ty of  the  same  name,  presenting  no  very  great  irregu- 
larities of  profile,  or  difficulties  of  construction  other 
than  the  viaduct  over  the  Little  Conestoga,  804  feet 
long  and  47  feet  high ;  not  long  after  the  passage  of 
which  it  arrives  at  the  summit  of  the  Columbia  inclined 
plane.  The  view  that  here  presents  itself,  of  the  broad 
and  noble  Susquehannah,  covered  with  arks  and  ves- 
sels bearing  the  varied  products  of  the  north  and  west, 
and  spanned  with  its  magnifieent  bridge  of  more  than 
thirty  arches,  and  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long,  is  such  as 
amply  to  repay  one  for  the  day's  journey  over  this  "  iron 
avenue  of  the  west."  The  Columbia  plane  is  1800  feet 
long,  with  a  rise  of  1  in  20  feet.  From  the  plane  the 
line  passes  through  Columbia  to  the  basin  of  the  east- 
ern division  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal.  Numerous  ex- 
aminations and  estin.ates  were  muls  in  relation  to 
joining  the  line  with  the  bridge,  which  resulted  in  the 
plan  of  an  inclined  plane,  with  horse  power,  running  at 
right  angles  to  the  line  of  the  bri'lgc,  and  communicat- 
ing with  it  by  means  of  revolving  platforms.  The  con- 
struction of  this  road  was  authorized  by  the  legislature 
in  1828,  but  owing  to  a  delay  in  the  appropriations,  it 
was  not  finished  till  1835.    The  cost  of  the  whole  line. 


82 


FROM  PHILADGLFHIA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


including  engines,  was  $3,595,809  98,  or  about  $43,851 
per  mile. 

After  ascending  the  inclined  plane  at  the  Schuylkill, 
the  first  village  passed  is 

Paoli,  19  miles  from  Philadelphia.  A  nent  monu- 
ment is  erected  here  in  honor  of  the  brave  soldierd  who 
fell  at  this  place  in  an  engagement  with  the  British 
during  the  revolution. 

DowNiNGTOWN,  10  milcs  farther,  is  a  pleasant  village 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Brandy  wine  creek. 

Lancaster,  41  miles  farther,  is  an  incorporated  city, 
and  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  state.  It  is  pleas- 
antly situated  on  ths  side  of  a  hill  1^  milps  west  ot  Con- 
estoga  creek,  which  fails  into  the  Susquehannah  9  miles 
below.  The  city  contains  several  handsome  public 
buildings  and  numerous  manufactories,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  country. 
Its  population  is  between  7  and  8000. 

Columbia,  12  miles  farther,  is  the  terminating  point 
of  the  rail  road,  and  is  generally  reached  by  steam  in 
about  8  hours  from  Philadelphia.  The  village,  which 
is  flourishing  and  bustling,  is  located  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Susquehannah  river,  and  contains  several  hand- 
some private  dwellings,  three  churches  and  a  bank. 
The  bridge  across  the  river  at  this  place  is  a  mile  and  a 
quarter  long,  resting  on  30  stone  piers,  and  is  of  itself 
an  object  sufficiently  imposing  to  a  stranger  to  authorize 
a  journey  from  Philadelphia. 


FROM  PHlLADELrUlA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


8i 


The  Pennsylvania  Cawal,  which  is  here  taken,  has 
already  been  noticed  at  p.  75.  It  passes  along  the 
bank  of  ihe  Susqnehannah  to  its  junction  with  the  Ju- 
n»ata ;  and  for  miles  the  traveller  is  floated  between 
the  river  and  its  lofty  shore,  separated  from  the  former 
only  by  the  breadth  of  the  tow  path,  which,  on  the 
side  towards  the  river,  is  solid  and  massive  mason- 
ry. On  the  other  side  of  the  canal  runs  the  turn- 
pike, and  so  scant  is  the  interval  between  the  river  and 
the  shore,  that  for  the  passage  of  these  thoroughfares  of 
trade  and  travel,  the  foundations  of  the  hills  have  been 
cut  away,  and  the  traveller  sails  along  their  bases,  with 
the  precipitous  crags  impending  many  hundred  feet 
above  him.  The  whole  number  of  locks  on  this  canal 
are  111 — dams,  18 — aqueducts,  33. 

The  first  village  after  leaving  Columbia  is 

Marietta,  3  miles — a  handsome   and  flourishing 
place.    From  which  to 

Bainbridge  is  8  miles, 

MiDDLETOWN  17,  and  from  thence  to 


Harrisbitrgii  10  miles.  The  village,  which  contains 
the  capital  of  the  state,  is  regularly  laid  out  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Susquehannah,  over  which  a  bridge  is  here 
erected,  one  mile  long.  The  village  contains  7  or  8 
public  buildings,  as  many  churches,  and  about  4S00  in- 
habitants. The  capitol  is  handsomely  situated  on  an 
eminence,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  town,  river 
and  surrounding  country.  To  the  north  the  mountain 
o2 


84 


FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


scenery  is  imposing,  and  the  opening  or  gap  through 
which  the  river  passes  presents  a  beautiful  appearance. 
The  building  in  which  the  legislature  meets  is  an  ex- 
tensive structure  of  brick,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
semicircular  portico  or  entrance,  which  is  approached 
by  a  flight  of  steps.  The  roof  of  the  portico  is  support, 
ed  by  six  massive  columns,  rising  to  the  height  of  the 
main  building.  From  the  portico  there  is  an  entrance 
into  the  rotunda  or  hall  of  the  building  which  separates 
the  chambers  of  the  two  houses.  To  the  rijiht  is  the 
hall  of  representatives — to  the  left  that  of  the  senate. 
Immediately  in  front,  as  you  enter  the  first  hall,  is  the 
speaker's  chair,  elevated  upon  a  ros*rum  above  those 
of  the  clerks,  which  derives  an  interest  from  the  fact 
that  it  is  the  same  chair  in  which  John  Hancock  first 
sat  when  he  was  chosen  President  of  the  continental 


congress. 


From  Harrisburgh  the  village  of  M'Allisterstown  7 
miles,  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata  8  miles,  and  the  villa- 
ges of  Millerstown  17  miles,  Mifflin  17  miles,  and  Lew- 
ISTOWN  13  miles,  are  successively  passed.  The  latter 
is  the  capital  of  Mifflin  county,  and  contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  about  1500  inhabitants.  The  villages  of 
Waynesburgh  14  miles,  Hamiltonville  1 1  miles,  Hunt- 
ingdon 7  miles,  Petersburgh  8  miles,  and  Alexandria 
23  mile^,  are  also  passed ;  from  whence  to  HoUidays- 
burgh  is  3  miles,*  the  termination  of  the  canal  at  the 

*  From  this  point  a  stage  coach  may  be  taken  for 
Bedford  Springs,  34  miles  south,  a  place  of  ver)^  con- 
siderable resort  in  the  summer  months.  The  mineral 
fountains  contain  gulphate  of  magnesia,  sulphate  of 
lime,  muriate  of  soda,  do.  of  lime,  carbonate  of  iron,  do. 
of  lime,  and  a  very  considerable  quantity  of  carbonic 
acid  gas. 


FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  PITTSBURG. 


85 


fort  of  the  Alleghany  mountains — a  trip  to  which  from 
Columbia  is  generally  accomplished  in  about  2^  days. 
Here  the  traveller  prepares  to  cross  the  mighty  division 
of  the  east  and  west — not  in  a  lumbpring  coach  drawn 
by  wearied  horses— but  in  a  rail  road  carriage  drawn 
by  steam.  The  change  from  the  slugrgi^h  motion  of 
the  boat  to  lh3  speed  of  the  car  is  very  acceptable,  and 
the  rail  road  over  the  mountains  proves  an  agreeable 
interlude  to  the  monotony  of  a  canal  passage. 

The  agjxretrate  of  ascent  and  descent  at  this  noint  is 
2570  feet — 1398  of  which  is  on  the  eastern  and  1 172  on 
the  western  side  of  the  mountain.  The  ascent  is  by 
live  inclined  planes,  of  nearly  a  mile  each  in  length. 
On  the  summit,  in  a  solitude  like  that  of  St.  Bernard 
upon  the  Alps,  stands  a  fine  mansion,  whose  spacious 
accommodations  and  welcome  cheer  invite  an  hour's 
delay.  Before  commencing  the  descent  of  the  moun- 
tain, the  traveller  comes  to  the  celebrated  tunnel,  hewn 
through  the  solid  rock,  870  feet  long  by  20  feet  in 
height!!  the  rumblins  of  the  cars  through  which  is  like 
the  reverberation  of  distant  thunder.  The  descent  is 
then  effected  like  the  ascent,  by  means  of  five  in- 
clined planes  of  about  a  mile  each.  After  leaving 
the  fourth,  the  road  crosses  a  stream  upon  a  magnifi- 
cent specimen  of  pontic  architecture,  70  feet  above 
the  water,  which  it  spans  with  a  single  arch  of  80 
feet.  It  is  beautifully  constructed  of  hewn  stone,  and 
curiously  contrasts  with  the  wildness  of  the  surround- 
ing scenery.  The  last  plane  being  descended,  the 
tourist  soon  finds  himself  at  the  termination  of  the  rail 
road  in  the  village  of  Johnstown,  36  miles  from  its 
commencement.    Here  a  packet  is  again  taken,  which 


86 


PITTSBURG. 


enters  tho  western  division  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal  ; 
which  follows  the  Conemaugh  river  for  a  distance  of 
78  miles,  until  it  intersects  with  the  Alleghany,  which 
terminates  at  Pittsburgh.  It  is  104  miles  long,  has  64 
locks,  10  dams,  2  tunnels,  16  aqueducts,  94  culverts, 
and  152  bridges.  *fter  leaving  Johnstown,  the  canal 
passes  through  a  tunnel  more  extensive  than  the  one 
on  the  Portage  rail  road.  The  heighth  of  tho  hill  which 
it  perforates  is  250,  and  the  length  of  the  tunnel  917 
feet.  The  traveller,  indeed,  passes  under  an  improved 
farm,  the  well  attached  to  which  is  directly  over  the 
tunnel  ! 

The  time  employed  in  reaching  Pittsburg  from  Hol- 
lidaysburgh  is  about  30  hours  ;  and  from  Philadelphia 
about  4  days.  Fare  for  the  whole  distance,  including 
meals,  about  $15. 


Pittsburg,  an  incorporated  city,  is  situated  on  a 
beautiful  plain,  on  a  broad  point  of  land,  where  the 
confluence  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela  forma 
the  Ohio  river.  The  population  of  the  city  proper  is 
about  15,000,  and,  including  the  suburbs,  about  25,000. 
It  is  compactly,  and  in  some  places  handsomely  built ; 
though  the  universal  use  of  pit  coa)  for  manufacturing 
and  cuUnary  purposes,  has  so  far  blackened  the  exte- 
rior of  every  building,  as  to  give  the  town  a  gloomy  ap- 
pearance. Its  position  and  advantages,  however,  will 
continue  to  render  it  v.  place  of  attraction  for  builders 
and  capitalists  ;  and  it  has  already  been  very  appro- 
priately termed  the  Birmingham  of  America,  there  be- 
ing not  less  thar-  290  manufacturing  establishments, 
many  of  which  are  very  extensive.  Independently  of  th« 


"'  ■^" 


■* 


THE  COAL  MINES. 


87 


immense  amount  of  iron  wrought  at  this  place,  boat 
and  steam  boat  buildiii^  \avebeon  puii.ucd  on  a  great- 
er scale  than  in  any  othjr  town  in  the  western  country. 
Small  boats  are  continually  depart!:!;':^  down  the  river 
at  all  seasons,  when  the  waters  will  admit.  In  moder- 
ate stages,  great  numbers  of  steam  boats  arrive  and 
depart.  The  city  has  also  immense  uuv.  i-afres  of  arti- 
ficial as  well  as  natural  water  communications.  Be- 
sides the  Pennsylvania  canal,  alrei'ly  described,  which 
terminates  hv  e,  another  canal  is  in  progress  to  connect 
it  with  T  ..'ie  Eric  through  Mcadville,  nd  another  pro- 
posed to  tnc  mouth  of  the  Mahoning,  where  it  will  con- 
nect with  a  branch  of  the  Ohio  and  Erie  canal  from  its 
summit  head. 

Among  the  public  buildings  in  Filtsburg  are  13 
churches,  a  university,  high  school,  exchange,  bank  and 
museum. 

From  Pittsburg,  steam  boats  may  be  taken  for  Cin- 
cinnati, Ohio,  465  miles  ;  to  Louisville,  Ken.  175  miles 
farther;  or  to  New-Orleans,  1400  mih  farther.  The 
time  employed  in  reaching  the  latter  ry  x-^e  is  about  12 
days,  and  the  usual  expenses  from  y$40  -o  $60. 

THE    COAL   MINES. 

Since  the  discovery  and  opening  o''  the  extensive 
coal  mi:ies  in  Pennsylvania,  and  the  grt.it  internal  im- 
provLMiients  which  have  been  made  in  l.ie  state,  pro- 
viding an  easy  coniinunication  to  them,  it  has  bccomo 
almost  a  matter  of  course  to  embrace  them  within  tho 
tour  of  the  middle  and  northern  states.  The  Lehioli 
aad  Schuylkill,  the  principal  mines  already  explored, 
are  located  from  100  to  120  miles  in  a  northeasterly 


w  ^^ 


THE  COAL  MINBS. 


uirection  from  Philadelphia,  between  a  r'i?in  of  moun- 
tains denominatrd  the  Blue  Rid^c  and  the  Susquehan- 
nah  liver.     The  anthracite  district  is  principally  occu- 
pied by  mountains  running  parallel  to  the  Blue  R-idge, 
often  broad  with  table  land  sumnuts,  and  rising  gen- 
erally about  1 500  feet  above  the  dccan.    These  sum- 
mits, by  repeated  fires,  have  been  principally  divested 
of  timber,  and  are  generally  too  stony  for  tilla^:e.    The 
beds  and  veins  of  anthracite  range  from  north-cast  to 
south-west,  and  may  often  be  traced  for  a  considerable 
distance  by  the  compass  ;  but  they  have  been  found  in 
the  greatest  quantity  in  sections  most  accessible  by 
water.     Extensive  beds  and  veins  range  from  the  Le- 
high to  the  Susquehannah,  crossing  the  head  waters  of 
the  Schuylkill  and  Swatara  about  ten  miles  north-west 
of  tb ;  Tilue  Ridge.    They  are  also  found  contiguous 
to  (ho  Pnsquehannah  and  Lackawana.     But  in  no  part 
oftne  di:itrict  docs  the  anthracite  exist  in  such  appa- 
rentij  iiexhaustible  beds  as  in  the  vicinity  of  Mauch 
Chunk,  a  village  situated  on  the  Lehigh,  35  miles  from 
Easton,  and  108  by  water  from  Philadelphia.  The  coal 
is  there  excavated  on  the  flat  summit  of  a  mountain 
that  rises  near  1500  feet  above  the  ocean.  It  is  disclos- 
ed for  several  miles  on  the  summit  wherever  excava- 
tions have  been  made,  and  is  indicated  in  many  places 
by  coal  slate  in  a  pulverulent  state,  on  the  surface. 
The  mountain  rises  with  steep  acclivity,  particularly  on 
the  north-west  side,  and  when  penetrated  at  various  al- 
titudes, discloses  coal  at  about  the  same  distance  from 
the  surface.   In  the  deep  excavations  made  on  the  sum- 
mit, no  termination  of  the  coal  has  been  found,  and  it  is 


ri^r^^.T  rr 


THE  COAL  MIMr.3. 


not  improbable  that,  anthracite  forms  the  nucleus  of  the 
mountain  for  a  considerable  djylance. 

The  coal  is  rendered  accessible  by  removinfi  from  the 
flat  summit  ginvelly  loam,  wliii  h  is  frot>'  a  few  inchea 
to  four  feet  in  depth,  and  disintei,'rat«  itr  \vith  im- 

pure coal,  from  two  to  four  feet.     The  sts  in  a 

horizontal  position,  narrow  paralh  of  ar;:illa- 

ccous  schist  interveninsj.     Stronjr  cIk.i\  sprinfrs, 

huldin£f  in  solution  sulphate  of  iron,  ib.suo  irom  the 
mountain's  side.  The  coal  excavation  on  the  surfiice  is 
extensive,  and  from  30  to  40  feet  deep,  formin<;  a  hol- 
low square,  bounded  by  lofty  nmral  precipices  of  coal. 
Waggons  are  admifted  by  avenue?*  that  serve  to  dis- 
charge water  from  the  mine. 

Next  to  IVlauch  Chunk,  Mount  Carbon, or  Pottsville, 
situated  at  the  head  of  the  Schuylkill  canal,  has  been 
the  principal  source  of  the  supply  of  anthracite.    Many 
large  veins  are  worked  within  three  miles  of  the  land- 
ing ;  and  some  have  been  opened  seven  miles  to  the 
northeast,  in  the  direction  of  the  Lehigh  beds.     The 
chief  veins  wrought  arc,  one  sifuat^d  on  an  eminence 
adjacent  to  the  vilhige  ;   Bailey's  mine,  nbout  2  miles 
from  Pottsville  and  near  the  turnpike  to  Lunl)ury;  and 
on  the  territory  of  the  IS ew- York  Sehiiylkill  company, 
about  3  n\il'\'='  Irom  the  viliarje.     On  almost  r vry  emi- 
nence a'jiic'  nt  1o  Pottsville,  indications  of  eoid  are  dis- 
closed.    The  vms  generiiily  run  in  a  no  i.h-east  direc- 
tion, with  an  ineiinution  of  about  4;!  di'g;ees,  and  are 
from  3  to  d  feet  in  lliicl;ne-s.     Commencing  at  or  near 
the  surface,  th'v  ()en  Irat'  to  an  unknown  d;"pl'),  luul 
can  ofr,  n  be  traced  on  hills  for  a  considerable  dislance 
by  Bounding  in  a  north-east  or  soutii-weat  direction* 


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Photogi-aphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTiR.N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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rat  COAL  MIKES. 


Some  veins  have  been  wrought  to  a  depth  of  200  feet 
without  a  necessity  for  draining,  the  inclined  slate  roof 
shielding  them  from  water.  Where  the  ground  admits, 
it  is  considered  the  best  mode  of  working  veins  to  com- 
mence ot  the  back  of  a  coal  mine  eminence,  or  as  low 
as  possible,  and  work  up,  filling  the  excavation  with 
slate  and  fine  coal,  leaving  a  horizontal  passage  for  the 
coal  barrows.  A  section  of  a  wide  vein  near  Pottsvillo 
has  been  excavated  by  this  mode  several  hundred  feet, 
into  the  hill. 

On  the  extensive  tract  occupied  by  the  New- York 
company,  five  miles  from  Pottsville,  there  are  also  in- 
exhaustible coal  beds,  in  the  excavating  of  which  from 
300  to  400  hands  are  employed. 

South-west  of  Pottsville  the  coal  becomes  more  ea- 
sily ignited,  and  that  at  Peter's  mountain,  a  few  miles 
east  of  Dansville,  is  said  to  contain  bitumen.  It  is 
probable  that  the  coal  in  that  vicinity  embraces,  like 
the  Wilkesbarre,  much  more  inflammable  gas  than  the 
Lehigh,  which  may  have  led  to  the  supposition  that  it 
was  bituminous. 

Anthracite  is  found  on  several  of  the  streams  that 
discharge  into  the  Susquehannah,  on  its  eastern  side. 
A  large  bed  exists  a  few  miles  easterly  from  Berwick, 
and  numerous  veins  occur  from  an  elevated  part  of  the 
Wilkesbarre  mountain,  to  the  Kingston  and  Shawncse 
mountains,  that  form  the  wfi^tern  borcc;  of  the  basin  of 
Wyoming.    Veins  of  coal  in  the  vula  of  the  latter,* 


"•'  The  vallpy  of  Wyoming  is  rendered  memorable  in 
history  from  the  bloody  massacre  of  the  white  settlers 
by  the  Indians  commanded  by  Col.  Butler  during  the 


It... 


iS.:.-v^<:v,!v,;liftw.,'--.*AJtt,; 


.;«*li>iiili.  i.iVM,.:tiASoEti  ' 


ftOUre  TO  TBB  SUHUTLKILL  COAL  MINES. 


91 


about  125  miles  north-west  of  Philadelphia,  are  not  on- 
ly very  numerous,  occurring  on  almost  every  farm,  but 
many  are  of  uncommon  thickness.''' 

Extensive  beds  of  coal  are  also  found  adjoining  the 
head  waters  of  Lycoming  creek,  which  lie  in  horizontal 
veins,  elevated  considerably  above  the  ordinary  level  of 
the  adjacent  country,  and  are,  of  course,  mined  with 
much  less  difficulty  than  in  many  other  districts.  These 
mines  are  advantageously  located  for  supplying  the  city 
of  New-Yoik  and  the  south-western  part  of  the  state, 
and  will  doubtless  prove  of  great  value  to  a  company 
which  has  been  chartered  to  explore  them.         -  .   i  : 

ROVTE  TO  THE  SCHUYLKILL  COAL  MINES. 

From  Philadelphia  to  Port  Carbon  is  108  miles,  and 
the  intermediate  distances  are  as  follow  :  -r/^ 


revolution,  and  immortalized  in  song  by  the  beautiful 
poem  of  Campbell.  The  village  of  Wilkesbarre,  on  the 
^usquehannah  river,  has  been  built  near  the  place  of 
this  massacre.  Solomon's  creek,  a  tributary  stream, 
and  which  unites  with  the  Susquehannah  in  this  valley, 
contains  two  very  romantic  falls,  a  short  distance  from 
Wilkesbarre. 

•  '■■ -'V 

♦  For  the  preceding  sketch  of  the  coal  region,  the 
editor  is  mostly  indebted  to  the  Journal  of  Science  and 
Arts,  an  invaluable  work,  published  at  New-Haven, 
Conn,  by  professor  Silliman. 


NORRISTOWN — RKADING. 


^..^  ^  MUes. 

By  rail  road. 
Prom  Philadelphia  to 

Germantown, 6 

Norfistown, 9 

By  stage  or  caiial. 

Phenixville, 13 

Pottstown, 14 

Union sville, ...  ^  ... .  4 


Miles, 

Birdsboro', 6 

Reading, 10 

Hamburgh,.* 23 

Port  Clinton, 4 

Schuylkill  Haven,. . .  12 

Pottsville, 5 

Port  Carbon, 2 


The  Norristown  rail  road  is  taken  at  Philadelphia, 
which  passes  through  Germantown,  distant  6  miles, 
distinguished  as  the  spot  of  a  sanguinary  contest  dur- 
ing  the  revolution  ;  and  from  thence  to 

Norristown,  9  miles  farther.  This  village  is  hand- 
somely located  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Schuylkill.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Montgomery  county,  and  contains  a 
number  of  elegant  dwellings.  It  was  formerly  the  res- 
idence of  the  celebrated  Doct.  Rittenhouse.  From  tins 
place  a  stage  or  canal  packet  is  taken,  which  passes 
through  Phenixvillei  to 

Pottstown,  or  Pottsgrove,  18  miles  above  Norris- 
town, which  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  oast  bank  of 
the  river. 

r  "'  . 

Reading,  20  miles  farther,  located  on  the  east  side 
of  the  river,  is  the  capital  of  Berk's  county.  It  is  a  flour- 
ishing town,  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  inhabited  princi- 
pally by  Germans.  Its  population  is  about  6000.  Near 
this  place  the  Union  Canal,  noticed  at  page  74,  com- 
mences.   Six  miles  from  Reading  is  an  excavation  of  60 


MOUNT  CARBON. 


93 


feet  in  depth  through  u  solid  rock  ;  the  contract  for  which 
having  been  taken  by  a  Mr.  Duncan,  the  spot  is  called 
Duncan's  Job.  From  this  place  to  the  Blue  Ridge,  the 
Schuylkill  winds  through  a  valley  in  which  there  is 
considerable  limestone,  the  fissures  and  cavities  of 
which  in  some  places  rendered  the  formation  of  a  re- 
tentive canal  difficult. 

Hamburgh  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
23  miles  above  Reading,  near  the  Blue  Ridge.  It  is  a 
pleasant  and  thriving  village,  near  which  is  what  is 
called  the  M&untain  Dam,  27  feet  high.  The  passage 
of  the  Schuylkill  and  canal  through  the  Blue  Ridge  is 
interesting  and  romantic.  The  mountains  bordering 
the  ravine  are  lofty  and  precipitous,  presenting  ledges 
of  old  and  red  sand  stone,  with  coarse  and  tine  silicious 
gray  wacke,  Tho  turnpike  winds  on  t'^e  mountain  side 
at  a  great  elevation  above  the  stream,  giving  to  the 
traveller  a  sublime  and  varied  scenery.  The  naviga- 
tion through  the  pass,  or  what  is  called  the  Schuylkill 
Water  Gap,  is  effected  by  stone  dams  of  magnitude 
and  permanent  construction  ;  and  groups  of  locks,  wa- 
ter falls  and  broad  sheets  of  water  are  frequent. 

After  passing  the  Water  Gap,  the  next  object  of  atr 
traction  is  the  Tunnel^  which  has  been  bored  through  a 
hill  375  yards  for  the  canal.  The  village  of  Orwisburgh 
is  3  miles  farther;  from  which  to 

Mount  Carbon  or  Pottsville  is  8  miles.  This 
place,  centrally  lacated  in  the  coal  region,  has  attained 
an  astonishing  growth  within  a  very  short  period.  Iq 
^824  it  was  a  wilderness ;  in  1829  it  contained  ^23  ten^ 


^  I  C  uaj^-:  -iitit.  -it.  y*  l' 


94 


RAIL  ROADS. 


ements,  and  a  population  of  2700  inhabitants  ;  in  1832, 
492  dwellings,  and  about  5000  inhabitants ;  in  1836, 
about  600  dwellings  and  7000  inhabitants;  several 
churches,  a  bank,  3  printing  offices,  and  a  large  num- 
ber of  stores,  shops  and  public  houses,  some  of  which 
are  very  elegant.  The  town  is  laid  out  in  regular 
squares,  and  the  main  street,  about  a  mile  in  length, 
presents  on  each  side  a  compact  row  of  large  and  sub- 
stantial buildings.  The  principal  streets  are  M'Adam- 
ized  in  the  centre,  with  brick  side  walks,  giving  a  neat 
and  durable  appearance  to  the  promenades. 

The  coal  in  this  region  has  been  described  in  the  pre- 
ceding pages  of  this  work.  Besides  the  numerous  fa- 
cilities afforded  for  its  transportation  by  water,  several 
rail  roads  have  been  constructed  in  the  vicinity  of 
Mount  Carbon.  Among  these  are  the  Schuylkill 
Valley  Rail  Road,  10  miles;  the  Mount  Carbon,  8 
miles ;  the  Mill  Creek,  3  miles  ;  the  West  Branch,  17 
miles  ;  the  Little  Schuylkill,  22  miles  ;  and  the  Dan- 
ville and  Pottsville,  45  miles — making  an  aggregate  of 
106  miles. 

The  Mount  Carbon  rail  road  commences  at  the  land- 
ing on  the  Schuylkill  and  passes  through  Pottsville  up 
to  the  heads  of  the  Norwegian  creek.  From  its  com- 
mencement to  its  tv  rminution,  there  is  not  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  which  it  does  not  cross  one  or  more  veins  of 
coal,  at  right  angles.  The  whole  valley,  indeed,  vva- 
tered  by  this  creek,  is  redolent  with  coal  of  the  finest 
quality. 

The  West  Branch  rail  road  commences  at  Schuylkill 
Haven,  and  extends  up  to  the  confluence  of  the  West 
and  west  West  Branches  of  the  Schuylkill,  from  whence 


RAIL  AOADS. 


95 


branches  follow  the  direction  of  the  two  streams  to  the 
foot  of  the  Broad  Mountain,  making  a  distance,  alto- 
gether,  of  about  17  miles.        ■ 'H  ''v;>iV'*«' 

TheLittle  Schuylkill  railroad  commences  at  Port  Clin- 
ton, at  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Schuylkill,  and  extends 
to  the  village  of  Tamaqua,  on  that  stream,  a  distance 
of  21^  miles — with  several  branches  to  the  coal  mines. 

The  Danville  and|Pottsville  railroad  extends  to  Lun- 
bury,  opposite  the  forks  of  the  Susquehannah,  and  is 
designed  to  connect  that  river  with  the  Schu}  Ikill  canaU 

Of  the  numerous  villages  which  have  sprung  up  in 
the  vicinity  of  these  mines  is  Port  Carbon,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Pottsville,  containing  150  to  200  buildings. 

Pursuing  up  the  route  of  the  Valley  Rail  Road,  the 
traveller  next  comes  to  Tuscarora,  Middleport,  Patter- 
son, New  Philadelphia,  and  Tuscarora  again.  The 
three  former  places  are  at  the  intersection  of  the  large 
lateral  road  which  leads  up  the  creek  tributary  to  the 
river — ^the  latter  is  at  the  head  of  the  main  rail  road, 
built  by  Messrs.  Lyons  and  Lawton. 

Up  the  Mill  Creek  Rail  Road,  about  2  miles,  is  St. 
Clairsville,  and  at  its  head  New-Castle,  where  the  road 
from  Port  Carbon  intersects  the  Centre  Turnpike. 
Both  these  places  have  extensive  water  powers,  and  are 
admirably  located  for  mills,  &c. 

At  the  junction  of  the  West  Branch  of  the  Schuyl« 
kill  with  the  main  river,  Schuylkill  Haven  is  a  beauti- 
fully situated  place,  which  will  be  a  mart  for  all  the  im- 
mense coal  region  of  the  West  and  west  West  Branch* 
es ;  this  location  is  destined  to  be  the  foe  *^  of  an  ex- 
tensive business.  Minersville  is  another  site  on  the 
same  branch,  nearly  west  of  Pottsville.  This,  from  its 
h2 


96  MAUCH  CHUNK. 

litaation  among  extensive  collieries,  has  already  become 
a  populous  place,  as  the  residence  of  those  engaged  in 
the  coal  business.  Further  up,  on  the  Broad  Moun- 
tain,  is  Carbondale,  which  also  promises  to  be  a  place 
of  some  importance ^    .  . 

ROUTE  TO  THE  LEHIGH  COAL  MINES. 

From  Pottsville,  a  stage  can  be  taken  to  Mauch 
Chunk,  at  the  Lehigh  coal  mines,  a  distance  of  32  miles 
in  a  north-eastwardly  direction.  This  route  is  recom- 
mended  to  travellers  from  the  south,  designing  a  gene- 
ral visit  to  the  coal  regions.  From  the  north,  the  most 
direct  route  is,  to  pursue  the  line  of  the  Morris  canal 
from  Newark,  N.  Jersey,  to  Easton,  or  the  route  from 
New- York  to  Schooley's  Mountain,  and  from  thence 
to  Easton,  proceeding  up  the  Lehigh  to  Mauch  Chunk. 
A  very  common  route  from  Philadelphia  to  the  Lehigh 
is  by  steam  boat  to  Bristol,  20  miles  up  the  Delaware, 
and  from  thence  by  stage  through  Newton  and  New- 
Hope  to  E&gton,  50  miles  farther.  This  route  is  mostly 
on  the  bank  of  the  Delaware,  and  passes  through  a 
pleasant  section  of  the  country,  affording  a  rich  and  di- 
vefsiiied  scenery. 


I '.it 


MAUCH    CHUXK. 

• '  The  village  of  Mauch  Chunk  is  situated  on  the  west- 
ern bank  of  the  Lehigh,  in  a  deep  romantic  ravine,  be- 
tween rocky  mountains  that  rise  in  some  parts  precipi- 
tously to  800  or  1006  feet  above  the  stream.  Space  was 
procured  for  dwellings  by  breaking  down  the  adjacent 
rocks,  and  by  fiUing  a  part  of  the  ravine  of  the  Mauch 
Chunk  creek.   A  portion  of  this  stream  has  been  trans- 


I 


MAUCH   CHUNK. 


97 


ferred  to  an  elevated  rail  way,  and  is  used  to  propel  a 
grist  mill.  The  village  contains  about  200  dwellings, 
belonging  principally  to  the  Lehigh  Company,  who 
have  between  SOO  and  1000  men  in  their  employ. 
Mauch  Chunk  seems  by  nature  designed  for  a  place  of 
business,  but  as  there  is  not  sufficient  room,  owing  to 
the  approach  of  the  mountains  to  the  Lehigh,  for  a 
town  of  much  size,  the  business  of  the  place  will  most 
likely  be  confined  principally  to  the  shipment  of  coal. 


i 


The  Mauch  Chunk  Rail  Road  leads  from  near  the 
coal  mines  on  the  mountain  down  an  inclined  plane  to 
the  Lehigh  river.    It  is  eight  miles  long,  and  has  been 
in  operation  7  or  8  years.    The  sleepers  on  which  the 
rails  rest,  as  well  as  the  rails,  are  of  wood ;  the  latter 
plated  with  iron.    Experiments  have  been  made  as  to 
the  velocity  that  might  be  obtained  for  the  cars  loaded 
with  coal,  and  the  horses  and  mules  to  draw  them  back 
to  the  summit  when  the  coal  had  been  discharged ;  and 
it  has  been  found,  that  though  the  speed  of  the  cars 
might  be  increased  to  thirty  or  forty  miles  an  hour  with 
safety,  yet  the  beasts,  as  well  as  the  men  who  guided 
the  cars,  became  in  a  few  days  sickly,  on  account  of 
the  rapid  and  confused  appearance  of  objects  as  they 
were  passed  on  the  way.    The  directors  of  the  compa- 
ny have  therefore  been  compelled  to  limit  the  velocity 
of  the  cars  to  14  miles  an  hour  in  their  descent,  to  ob- 
viate the  disagreeable  consequences  of  the  more  rapid 
motion.     Pleasure  carriages  sometimes  go  up  this  rail 
way  with  strangers ;  but  the  more  common  practice  is 
to  go  up  in  the  returning  cars.    The  road  generally 
passes  along  a  narrow  shelf,  with  precipices  on  its  side 


98  LEHIGH   RIVER. 

not  unfrequently  of  from  300  to  600  feet.  At  the  end 
of  the  rail  road,  the  cars  are  let  down  to  the  river  on  an 
inclined  plane  of  700  feet,  equal  to  a  perpendicular  de- 
scent of  200. 

The  same  company  have  also  constructed  a  rail  road 
54  miles  in  extent  from  Mauch  Chunk  up  the  Lehigh 
to  a  coal  mine. 

The  Lehigh  Canal  was  noticed  at  page  78.  The 
Lehigh  River  is  a  copious  rapid  stream,  and  rises  by 
various  mountain  branches  forty  miles  north-west  of 
Mauch  Chunk,  which  unite  below  Stoddartsville,  25 
miles  above  Mauch  (Dhunk.  The  fall  of  the  river  be- 
tween these  two  places  is  845  feet.  Eleven  miles  be- 
low Mauch  Chunk,  it  passes  through  the  Kittatinny 
range  of  mountains,  and  in  the  intermediate  space  falls 
245  feet.  From  the  Lehigh  Water  Gap,  or  passage 
through  the  Kittatinny,  to  its  junction  with  the  Dela- 
ware at  Easton,  35  miles,  it  falls  206  feet ;  making  the 
entire  fall  from  Stoddartsville  1210  feet.  To  overcome 
the  descent  from  Mauch  Chunk  to  Easton,  21  dams 
and  53  locks  have  been  found  necessary.  They  are  lo- 
cated at  the  head  of  rapids,  enabling  the  navigator  to 
command  an  artificial  freshet,  when  the  stream  from  its 
dispersion  would  not  otherwise  admit  of  the  passage  of 
boats.  Water  from  the  dam  is  copiousK  admitted  in- 
to a  rail  way  that  extends  to  the  foot  of  the  rapid.  The 
gates  are  attached  by  hinges  to  the  bottom  of  the  lock, 
and  rise  by  the  force  of  water  admitted  from  a  floom, 
constructed  parallel  with  the  lock,  and  remain  suspend- 
ed, forming  a  section  of  the  dam.  If  the  gate  of  the 
6oom  is  closed,  the  water  between  the  gates  passes  oif, 


m 


,  -  *."«  rti*-.  ■■.  tU'aSifi-  - 


LEHIGB    WATER   GAP. 


and  they  fall  by  their  own  weight  and  the  pressure  of 
the  water  from  the  dam. 


/ 


25 


The  Landing,  or  Lausnntie,  above  Mauch  Chunk, 
from  its  location  at  the  head  of  the  navigation,  and  at 
the  commencement  of  the  turnpike  road  leading  to  the 
Susquehannah,  is  a  place  of  deposit  for  merchandize  and 
produce  destined  to  and  from  the  upper  country.  The 
Nesquehoning  creek  here  empties  into  the  Lehigh, 
and  from  the  extensive  water  power  which  it  affords, 
manufactories  can  be  established  at  comparatively  a 
very  small  expense.  Eight  miles  below  Mauch  Chunk 
is  the  pleasant  village  of 

Lehighton.  The  ground  plot  of  the  town  is  laid  out 
upon  an  elevated  piece  of  table  land,  and  the  lots  are 
sufficiently  large  to  afford  an  extensive  garden  and 
yard  to  each  dwelling.  The  village  commands  a  pros- 
pect  of  the  river  and  canal ;  the  valley  in  which  the 
town  of  Weiss  Port  is  located  ;  the  Blue  Mountain  in 
the  distance,  and  a  nearer  view  of  the  Mahoning  moun- 
tain and  the  Lehigh  hills.  The  Mahoning  creek  flows 
at  the  foot  of  the  Mahoning  mountain,  and  es^iniies  in- 
to the  Lehigh  within  half  a  mile  of  the  village,  where 
has  been  discovered  a  mineral  spring,  the  waters  of 
which  have  proved  highly  beneficial  in  many  cases  of 
disease  and  debility. 

The  Lehigh  Water  Gap  is  3  miles  farther.  The 
river  is  herejqijnjned  withJn-V«ry;narrow.'limits,  b^ng 
bounded  on  jbH^^,  Aijp^vfi^  jka'bcldfajid  pjr^cypitoup 
Kittatinny.  moiyitaiijs.    The  scenery  Is*  lA  rf  lligh  da* 

■  .'  y  *^>  y  y    .'v  ;  "    ' .  .    .  . 
•.  \  . .   *  •  •  •-,.♦.  I  '  •       ' '  - 


too 


BETHLEHEM.    " 


gree  wild,  picturesquo,  and  frequently  sublime.  Below 
the  rnuuntain»,  the  features  of  nature  are  less  magnifi> 
cent,  but  still  follow  in  a  romantic  succession  of  strong- 
ly contrasted  and  elegant  landscapes.  .  . 


Bethlehem  is  U  miles  from  the  Water  Grap.  It  is 
a  settlement  of  the  Moravians,  or  United  Brethren. 
The  situation  is  healthful  and  pleasant,  and  it  is  a  place 
much  resorted  to  in  the  summer  months.  The  church 
belonging  to  the  society  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
state,  though  exhibiting  in  is  structure  much  plainness. 
From  its  steeple  a  yery  beautiful,  picturesque  and  ex- 
tended view  can  be  obtained.  In  one  direction  the 
scene  stretches  for  upwards  of  twenty  miles  along  the 
course  of  the  Lehigh  and  the  Water  Gap,  the  wander- 
ing explorations  of  the  eye  terminating  at  the  Blue 
Mountain  range. 

When  a  death  occurs,  a  part  of  the  choir  ascend  the 
steeple,  where  a  requium  or  funeral  hymn  is  sung  for 
their  departed  brother  or  sister.  The  body  is  subse- 
quently placed  in  what  is  termed  the  "  corpse  house,"  a 
building  detached  from  all  others,  where  it  remains 
three  days,  typical  of  the  death  and  burial  of  the  Sav- 
iour, and  then  is  interred  in  the  church  yard.  This  is 
divided  into  various  departments  and  methodically  ar- 
ranged, though  with  much  plainness  and  simplicity. 

The  society  take  charge  of  their  own  poor,  of  which, 
however,  there  are  very  few — a  strong  argument  in  fa- 
vor of  their  regulations,  r  ^  , 

The  town  is.supplied  yfitht  wa^er  ffdft^  the  Monocks- 
sy  tsre^k.  The  ^orks  ire .  ^id^o  '^  ike  eldest  in  the 
eQi£e,>ha\iirtg  been  in  opei^tion  more  than  eighty  years, 


MftRRtS    CANAL. 


lot 


Thoie  at  Fairmount,  Philadolphio,  are  constructed  up' 
on  similar  principles.  The  house  where  Gen.  La  Fuy* 
ette  lay  during  his  recovery  from  the  wound  he  receiv- 
ed at  the  battle  of  Brandywine,  is  pointed  out  iiere. 
His  nurse  on  that  occasion,  who  had  continued  to  re- 
side in  the  place,  received  a  visit  from  him  when  he 
was  last  in  this  country. 

Easton  is  12  miles  from  Bethlehem,  and  is  the  cfepl- 
ital  of  Northampton  county,  Penn.  It  is  located  on  the 
Delaware  river,  immediately  above  the  entrance  of  the 
Lehigh>  in  a  valley  between  the  Musconetcunk  moun- 
tains. Several  rude  and  isolated  hills  stand  in  the  Val- 
ley, commanding  extensive  views  and  giving  to  the 
place  a  picturesque  appearance.  The  town  is  tasteful- 
ly laid  out,  with  an  open  square  in  the  centre,  and  con- 
tains several  handisome  dwellings.  Its  public  buildings 
are  a  college,  court  house,  jail,  3  churches,  a  bank  and 
an  academy.  A  bridge  extending  across  the  Delaware 
at  this  place  cost  $60,000.  There  is  also  a  chain  bridge 
across  the  Lehigh. 

The  location  of  Easton  is  highly  favorable  for  trade. 
Besides  the  great  advantages  here  possessed  for  man- 
ufacturing purposes,  and  the  contiguity  of  the  place  to 
the  Delaware  and  Lehigh  river,  it  is  the  point  at  which 
three  important  canals,  the  Delaware,  the  Lehigh  and 
th6  Morris,  concentrate.    (See  p.  78.) 

The  Morris  Canal  extends  from  Easton  to  New- 
ark, N.  Jersey,  a  distance  of  86  miles,  and  from  thence 
to  Powles'  Hook,  opposite  New- York,  8  miles  further, 
lockage  1600  feet,  which  is  surmounted  by  irlclined 
planes.    From  Newark  to  Patterson,  the  country  thro' 


102 


DELAWARE   WATER   GAP. 


which  the  canal  passes  is  beautiful.  At  the  latter  place 
a  view  of  the  extensive  manufactories  is  had,  located 
on  the  north.  On  the  south,  the  canal  for  some  dis- 
tance is  bounded  by  mountainous  rugged  cHffs,  the 
rocky  excavations  through  which  were  attended  with 
great  labor  and  expense.  Four  miles  above  Pater- 
son  is  what  is  called  the  Grand  Aqueduct  across  the 
Passaic  river  at  the  Little  Falls.  This  aqueduct  may 
justly  be  ranked,  for  its  admirable  construction,  work- 
manship, space  of  the  arch  and  elevation,  with  the 
greatest  objects  of  curiosity  in  artificial  navigation,  and 
altogether  may  be  considered  superior  to  any  thing  of 
the  kind  in  this  country.  Half  a  mile  further  is  an 
aqueduct  across  the  Pompton  river,  a  work  of  consider- 
able magnitude.  The  whole  route,  indeed,  from  New- 
ark to  Easton  is  interesting,  and  worthy  the  attention 
of  the  tourist. 


From  Easton  to  the  Delaioare  Wind  Gap^  an  important 
passage  through  the  Blue  Mountains,  is  12  miles,  in  a 
northwardly  direction. 

From  Easton  to  the  Delaware  Water  Gap,  the  distance 
is  23  miles.  The  route  proceeds  up  the  river  to  Rich- 
mond, 14  miles  ;  from  thence  to  Williamsburgh,  4 
miles  ;  and  from  the  latter  place  to  the  Water  Gap,  5 
miles.  The  current  of  the  stream  is  here  contracted  at 
the  base  of  two  lofty  mountains  in  opposite  directions, 
between  which  the  passage  is  extremely  narrow.  It  is 
supposed  that  here  was  formerly  a  barrier  over  which 
the  river  flowed  in  the  form  of  a  cataract,  which  was 
subsequently  worn  away,  leaving  a  smooth  unruflled 
current.     The  scene  is  wild  and  highly  interesting. 


N&WAktt. 


lOS 


rap,  5 


PromEaston  to  Schooley^s  Mountain  and  thence  to  J^ew 
Vorkf  the  whole  distance  is  71  miles  as  follows  : 


Miles. 
From  Easton  to  Phil- 

ipsburgh, 1 

Top  of  Schooley's 

Mountain, 24 

Menclham, 12 


Miles, 

Morristown, 6 

Passaic  river, 7 

Newark, •  11 

New- York, 10 


Schooley's  Mountain,  in  New- Jersey,  is  a  place  of 
fashionable  resort  from  New- York,  in  the  summer 
months,  owing  to  its  cool,  airy  and  healthful  t^tnation, 
and  to  the  extensive  prospect  afforded  from  its  top  ;  on 
which  there  is  an  excellent  public  house.  Within  a 
mile  of  its  summit  there  are  mineral  springs,  which  are 
usually  resorted  to  by  visitants  at  the  mountain  house. 

Newark,  N.  J.,  which  is  located  on  the  route,  and 
which  is  within  10  miles  of  N.  York,  is  one  of  the  most 
elegant  cities  in  the  union.  It  is  situated  near  the 
west  bank  of  the  Passaic  river,  3  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  is  laid  out  in  regular  streets,  the  principal  being 
200  feet  wide.  The  public  square,  near  the  centre,  is 
very  handsome,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  number  of  ele- 
gant private  dwellings.  The  public  buildings  in  the 
place  are  a  court  house,  jail,  two  banks,  an  academy, 
and  eight  churches.  The  population  in  1830  was  10,705, 
and  cannot,  at  the  present  time,  (1837,)  be  less  than 
15,000.  A  rail  road  extends  from  this  place  to  Jersey 
City,  opposite  New-York,  so  that  the  intercourse  be- 
tween the  two  places  is  rapid  and  frequent. 

Having  thus  far  diverged  from  the  usual  route  to  the 
north,  for  the  purpose  of  describing  the  coal  region,  and 


-^.^,. ..„::,. ^r 


I'Z'^^:-''.''^'  '. 


104 


PROM    PltlLADF.LPItlA    TO  NEW-TORK. 


the  most  interesting  natural  and  artificial  objects  con- 
nected therewith,  we  return  to  Pliiladelphia,  to  reaun)e 
the  regular  excursion. 

PROM   PHILADELPHIA   TO   NEW-YORK. 

There  being  two  prominent  routes,  we  give  a  sketch 
of  each  for  the  convenience  and  choice  of  travellers. 


Route  by  the  Camden  and  Amboy  Rail  Road — 
85  miles. 
The  intermediate  distances  are  as  follow  : 

By  rail  road. 


By  steam  boat. 

Miles. 
Prom  Philadelphia  to 

Burlington,  N.  J. . .  18 
Bristol,  Penn........     1 

Bordentown,  N.  J... ,     9 


Miles. 

Hightstown, 14 

Amboy, 20 

By  steam  boat. 
Now- York, 23 


Burlington,  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  is  12  miles  below  Trenton  and  18  above  Phila- 
delphia. It  is  delightfully  situated,  and  contains  some 
handsome  public  and  private  houses. 

Bristol  is  one  mile  farther,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Delaware,  in  Bucks  county,  Pennsylvania.  This 
place  contains  several  fine  residences,  and  is  an  attrac- 
tive and  interesting  '^ountry  village.  Some  of  its  flow- 
er gardens,  which  are  unusually  elegant,  and  located 
on  the  margin  of  the  river,  add  much  to  the  beauty  of 
its  appearance. 


Borden  town,  9  miles  farther,  and  six  below  Tren- 
ton, is  noted  as  the  residence  of  the  Count  de  Sur- 


FROM    rHILADELPHlA    TO    NEW-YORK. 


Wtf 


\illicrs,  the  ex-king  of  Spain,  whose  flegant  manaion* 
was  within  a  few  years  burnt  by  accident,  but  is  now 
rebuilt  with  additional  embellishment  and  magnifi- 
concc  His  villa  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river. 
The  soil  around  it  is  unproductive ;  but  by  the  aid  of 
culture  and  art,  his  residence  now  exhibits  an  appear- 
ance of  taste  and  munificence  worthy  the  princely  for- 
tune and  dignity  of  its  proprietor. 


At  Bordentown  the  Camden  and  Ambot  Rail  Road 
is  taken,  which  extends  to  South  Amboy ;  from 
whence  a  steam  boat  is  again  taken,  which  lands  pas- 
sengers at  New-York.  The  charter  of  this  road  was 
granted  by  the  legislature  of  New-Jersey  in  1830,  and 
the  travel  between  Bordentown  and  Amboy  commenced 
in  1832.  Camden,  the  south-western  point  at  which 
the  road  terminates,  is  a  small  village  on  the  Delaware, 
opposite  Philadelphia,  27  miles  below  Bordentownj 
where  the  river  is  about  one  mile  in  breadth.  In  the 
winter,  passengers  are  generally  received  and  landed 
at  that  point ;  but  in  summer,  a  steam  boat  passage 
between  Philadelphia  and  Bordentown  is  generally  pre- 
ferred. South  Amboy  is  seated  at  the  head  of  the  Rar- 
itan  Bay,  61  miles  and  ten  chains  from-  Camden,  as 
measured  by  the  course  of  the  rail  road  ;  and  is  about 
23  miles  from  the  city  of  New- York,  (by  water,)  mak- 
ing the  whole  distance  from  Camden  to  New- York 
rather  less  than  85  miles. 

South  Amboy,  where  the  road  terminates  at  the  eas- 
tern end,  is  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  United 
States,  accessible  at  all  seasons  for  the  largest  vessels 
from  the  sea  and  from  New-York  ;  so  that  the  commu- 


106 


FROM    PHILADELPHIA    TO    NBW-TORK, 


nication  with  Philadelphia  and  foreign  countries  by  this 
route  will  be  uninterrupted.  Possessing,  too,  great  ad- 
vantages for  a  port  of  entry  and  departure,  during  the 
winter  months,  and  having  added  to  it  the  facilities  for 
transportation  of  the  cargoes  of  merchant  traders  by  the 
rail  road,  it  must  become  an  important  point  for  the 
mercantile  operations  of  Philadelphia,  independently  of 
the  advantages  of  its  nearer  connection  with  N.  York. 

A  single  track,  with  occasional  turnouts,  has  thus 
far  only  been  made  ;  but  the  workmanship  and  mate- 
rials are  of  the  best  and  most  durable  kind.  Entire  iron 
rails  are  used,  which  rest  on  stone  blocks  and  sleepers. 

The  carriages  are  among  the  best  which  have  been 
constructed  ;  and  a  trip  across  the  road  will  be  ranked 
among  the  novelties  and  pleasures  of  a  northern  tour. 

From  South  Amboy  a  steam  boat  is  taken  for  New- 
York,  23  miles  distant.  In  proceeding  up  the  bay, 
Staten,Bedlow  and  Governor's  Islands  are  successively 
passed — the  former  containing  several  beautiful  country 
seats,  and  the  latter  being  used  exclusively  as  a  milita-* 
ry  post. 

The  price  of  fare  from  Philadelphia  to  New- York  is 
from  $3  to  $3,50,  and  the  route  is  usually  performed  ia 
from  9  to  10  hours. 


PROM    PHILADELPHIA    TO   NEW-TORK. 


lOT 


Route  by  the  way  of  Trentonj 
85i  miles. 
The  intermediate  distances  are  as  follow  : 


Miles. 
By  rail  road. 
From  Philadelphia  to 

Bristol, 19 

Trenton, 8i 

By  stage. 

Princeton, 10 

Kingston, 3 

New-Brunswick,....  13 


Miles. 
By  rail  road. 

Rahway, 12 

Elizabethtown, ......  5 

Newark, 6 

Jersey  City, 8 

By  Steam-hoat. 

New- York, 1 


The  Philadelphia  and  Trenton  Rail  Road  is 
taken  at  the  depot  in  the  city.  This  road,  which  is  re- 
markably level,  extends  along  the  verdant  banks  of  the 
Delaware,  and  passes  through  the  village  of  Bristol  to 
Trenton ;  from  which  point  it  would  extend  to  New- 
Brunswick,  26  miles  farther,  and  then  unite  with  the 
New-Jersey  rail  road  to  Jersey  City  opposite  New- 
York,  were  it  not  for  the  charter  of  the  Camden  and 
Amboy  Rail  Road  Company,  which  secures  to  them 
the  exclusive  privilege  of  a  rail  road  across  New-Jer- 
sey. Passengers,  therefore,  in  taking  this  route,  trav- 
r\  a  distance  of  26  miles  by  stage ;  but  the  interesting 
villages  through  which  it  passes  will,  in  a  measure, 
compensate  for  the  change  and  the  extra  time  employ- 
ed in  performing  the  journey. 

Bristol,  19  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  the  first  vil- 
lage of  importance  on  this  route,  and  has  already  been 
noticed  at  p.  104. 

Trenton,  8^  miles  farther,  is  the  termination  of  the 
rail  road.    It  is  the  capital  of  New-Jersey,  and  con- 
l2 


las 


FROM    PHILADELPHIA   TO   NBW-TORR. 


tains  about  7000  inhabitants,  a  state  house,  two  banks, 
and  six  houses  of  public  worship.  At  this  place  the 
steam  boat  navigation  on  the  Delaware  terminates. 
The  river  here  forms  a  considerable  rapid  or  fall,  near 
which  is  an  elevated  bridj^e,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
long,  neatly  roofed,  and  the  sides  enclosed  to  secure  it 
from  the  weather. 

It  was  in  this  section  of  New-Jersey,  and  at  the 
gloomiest  period  of  the  contest,  that  some  of  the  most 
important  scones  of  the  revolution,  and  those  which 
gave  point  and  character  to  the  American  war,  trans- 
pired. It  was  for  a  length  of  time  in  the  possession 
oCthe  English,  and  was  the  theatre  of  much  carnage 
and  bloodshed.  The  capture  of  a  detachment  of  Eng- 
lish  and  German  troops  in  December,  177G,  at  Tren- 
ton, was  the  first  signal  victory  that  crowned  our  arms 
in  the  revolutionary  contest.  It  cheered  the  drooping 
and  depressed  spirits  of  our  little  army,  and  imparted 
new  vigor  to  the  cause  of  liberty.  The  retreat  of 
Washington  with  his  troops  from  Trenton,  considering 
the  circumstances  which  surrounded  him,  and  the  se- 
crecy with  which  it  was  accomplished,  may  be  justly 
considered  as  one  of  the  most  successful  movements  of 
that  eventful  period. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  rail  road  carriages  at  Trenton, 
stages  are  taken  for  N.  Brunswick,  which  pass  through 


Princeton,  10  miles  from  the  former  place.  The 
village,  which  is  handsome,  is  located  on  elevated 
ground,  and  overlooks  an  extensive  prospect.  It  con- 
tains a  college,  theological  seminary,  a  presbyterian 
church,  and  about  100  dwelling  houses.    The  college 


rnOM    rillLADELPHIA    TO   NEW-TORK. 


109 


j 


; 


;; 


of  Now-Jorsey  was  founded  in  1738.  It  has  a  presi* 
dent,  3  professors,  and  2  tutors. 

The  theological  seminary  was  established  in  1812, 
by  the  general  assembly  of  the  prcsbyterian  church. 
It  has  3  professors,  i]i  respectable  library,  and  upwards 
of  100  students. 

In  the  college  yard  are  the  remains  of  the  presidents 
of  the  institution.  Burr,  Edwards,  Davis,  Finley,  With- 
erspoon  and  Smith. 

New-Brunswick  is  13  miles  farther.  In  this  village 
is  the  theological  seminary  under  the  direction  of  the 
synod  of  the  Dutch  reformed  church.  The  village  also 
contains  a  court  house,  jail,  a  college  edifice,  and  five 
churches.'*' 

The  New-Jerset  Rail  Road  is  here  taken,  which 
passes  through  Rahway  and  Elizabethtown  to  New- 
ark ;  from  whence  the  Newark  rail  road  is  taken  to 
Jersey  City. 

Rahwat  is  a  small  village,  12  miles  from  New- 
Brunswick. 

Elizabethtown,  5  miles  farther,  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  a  creek  emptying  into  Staten  Island  Sound.  A 
steam  boat  plies  between  the  Point  and  New- York. 


Newark,  6  miles  farther,  has  been  already  noticed 
at  page  103. 

'''  A  steam  boat  or  rail  road  can  be  taken  at  this  place 
for  New- York ;  but  the  latter  is  generally  preferred. 


tio 


NEW-YORK. 


Between  five  and  six  miles  from  Newark,  the  rail 
road  unites  with  one  leading  to  Patterson,  noticed  in  a 
subsequent  page.  The  two,  passing  through  Bergen 
Hill,  a  deep  and  rocky  excavation,  are  used  in  common 
for  about  2^  miles  to  the  terminating  point  at 

Jersey  City  ;  from  whenco  a  steam  boat  crosses 
the  bay,  about  one  mile,  to 


ish 
wli 
am 
an( 


NEW-YORK. 

This  city  is  situated  on  the  point  of  Manhattan  Island, 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Hudson  and  East  rivers,  in  lati- 
tude 40.  It  was  founded  by  the  Dutch  in  1612,  under 
the  name  of  New- Amsterdam,  and  was  incorporated 
by  the  British  in  1696.  The  island  on  which  it  stands 
is  15  miles  long,  and  from  1  to  3  miles  broad.  Tho 
city  is  situated  on  the  south  part  of  the  island,  and  ex- 
tends along  the  Hudson  about  2^  miles,  and  from  tho 
Battery  along  East  river  nearly  4  miles.  The  early 
settlements  were  commenced  at  and  near  the  Battery, 
from  which  streets  were  extended  without  reference  to 
order  or  regularity  ;  and  this  accounts  for  the  seeming 
want  of  taste  in  laying  out  the  streets  towards  the 
docks  and  harbor. 

The  Battery  is  situated  at  the  south-west  point  of 
the  city,  opposite  to  Governor's  Island.  It  is  hand- 
somely laid  out  into  gravel  walks,  and  tastefully  deco- 
rated with  shrubbery  and  trees.  It  is  much  frequent- 
ed by  the  citizens  in  the  warm  season,  as  well  for  the 
purpose  of  partaking  of  the  refreshing  sea  breeze,  as 
for  enjoying  the  prospect,  which,  from  this  place,  in- 
cludes the  harbor  with  its  various  shipping,  Governor's 


3 

i 


NEW-TOUK. 


Ill 


inland,  HfMllovv's  island,  and  Ellis'  island,  on  each  of 
which  are  military  Htations,  the  shores  of  New-Jersey 
and  Lon^  Island,  with  the  Hourishin*;  city  of  Brooklyn, 
and  the  numerous  country  scuts  in  its  vicinity. 

Castle  Garden,  connected  with  the  Baltery  by  a 
brid|2re,  is  much  frequented  during  the  summer  eve- 
nings. It  has  a  fine  promenade,  and  is  often  rendered 
attractive  by  a  display  of  fire  works  from  its  enclosure, 
and  otlier  amusements. 

Broadway,  the  most  splendid  street  in  the  city,  runs 
through  the  centre  and  extends  3  miles  in  length  and 
about  80  feet  in  width.  It  is  the  great  and  fashionable 
resort  for  citizens  and  strangers,  and  is  much  crowded 
during  pleasant  weather.  In  this  avenue  are  Grace, 
Trinity  and  St.  Paul's  churches,  the  Astor  House,  City 
Hotel,  Congress  Hall,  American  Hotel,  Mansion 
House,  Atlantic  Hotel,  Franklin  House,  Washington 
Hotel,  and  a  variety  of  shops  with  elegant  and  exten- 
sive assortments  of  merchandize  of  every  description. 

Opposite  Trinity  church,  Wall  street  opens,  which 
contains  most  of  the  banks,  together  with  the  principal 
part  of  the  brokers'  and  insurance  offices. 

On  passing  up  Broadway  still  farther,  is  Courtlandt 
street,  which  leads  to  the  Hudson  river,  where  the 
steam  boats  start  for  Albany.  At  the  foot  of  Court- 
landt street,  also,  is  the  ferry  to  Jersey  city.  A  little 
further  up  is  Fulton  street,  on  the  corner  of  which  and 
Broadway  stands  St.  Paul's  church.  Fulton  street  leads 
to  the  East  river ;  along  the  docks  of  which  are  the 
steam  boats  for  Bridgeport,  Saybrook,  Hartford,  New- 
London,  Norwich  and  New-Haven.  At  the  foot  of 
Barclay  street,  extending  to  the  Hudson  river  west  of 


118 


NEW-YORK. 


the  Park,  are  a  part  of  the  Albany  boatfl,  and  also  iho 
Hoboken  ferry. 

Above  St.  Paul's  church  is  the  Park  and  City  Hall, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  the  former  containing 
about  1 1  acres,  which  are  ornamented  with  much  taste, 
and  enclosed  by  a  substantial  iron  railing.  It  furnish- 
es a  cool  and  fashionable  resort  for  men  of  business 
and  pleasure,  after  the  fatigue  and  heat  of  a  summer's 
day.  On  the  right  ia  the  Park  Theatre,  and  on  the  left 
Park  Place,  on  the  west  side  of  which  is  Columbia  Col- 
lege. The  next  street  above  Park  Place  is  Murray^ 
which  leads  to  the  Hoboken  ferry,  and  also  to  the  Prov- 
idence steam  boats. 

Of  the  public  buildings,  (besides  23  banks,  mostly 
located  in  Wall  street,)  the  most  prominent  and  im- 
portant is  the 

City  Hall,  the  fiont  of  which  is  built  of  white  mar- 
ble. It  is  216  feet  long,  105  feet  broad,  and,  including 
the  attic  story,  65  feet  high.  The  rooms  for  holding 
the  different  courts  of  law  are  fitted  up  in  a  rich  and  ex- 
pensive style.  The  room  for  holding  the  mayor's  court 
contains  portaits  of  Washington,  of  the  different  gov- 
ernors of  the  state,  and  many  of  the  most  celebrated 
commanders  of  the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States. 
The  foundation  stone  of  this  building  was  laid  in  1803, 
and  the  whole  finished  in  1812,  at  an  expense  of  $500,- 
000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  edifices  in  America, 
and  reflects  great  credit  on  the  inhabitants  for  their 
munificence  and  taste. 

The  New  City  Hall,  in  the  rear  of  the  City  Hall,  is 
an  extensive  brick  building,  formerly  the  Alms  House, 
which,  with  the  buildings  lately  composing  the  Eo- 


I 


tun 
Poi 


ruir 
edi 


•^■■^BwT  ■ 


KEW.tORK. 


113 


f.unda  and  Debtors'  Prison,  arc  now  occupied  for  the 
Post  OfTice  and  other  public  oflices. 

The  Merchants'  Exchange,  in  Wall  street,  which 
was  burnt  on  the  night  of  the  16th  of  December,  1935,* 
was  an  elegant  structure,  114  feet  long  by  150  feet 
deep,  and  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $230,000.  On  its 
ruins,  however,  a  much  more  splendid  and  extensive 
edifice  is  soon  to  be  erected. 

In  the  same  street,  on  the  corner  of  Nassau  and  ex- 
tending through  to  Pine  street,  a  site  has  been  selected 
for  a  new  custom  house,  which,  when  finished,  will  be 
one  of  the  most  substantial  and  elegant  buildings  in 
the  city.  It  is  to  be  177  feet  long  and  89  feet  wide,  and 
is  to  be  built  after  the  model  of  the  Parthenon  at  Ath- 
ens. The  fronts  will  present  splendid  colonnades,  with 
massive  columns  of  the  Doric  order.  The  centre  of  the 
building  will  be  surmounted  by  a  dome  about  60  feet  in 
diameter.  The  entire  structure  is  to  be  incombustible, 
and  the  cost  is  estimated  at  $500,000. 


/    I 


*  This  was  the  most  calamitous  and  by  far  the  most 
extensive  fire  which  ever  took  place  in  this  country. 
A  space  of  between  30  and  40  acres,  covered  with 
valuable  stores,  filled  with  merchandize,  extending 
on  the  east  river  from  Old- slip  to  Coenlies'-slip,  and 
back  to  Wall  and  nearly  to  Broad  street,  was  rendered 
a  mass  of  smoky  ruins.  The  number  of  buildings  de- 
stroyed was  648,  and  the  amount  of  property  lost  esti- 
mated at  between  seventeen  and  eighteen  millions  of 
dollars.  Of  the  twenty-six  insurance  con^'^ianies  then 
in  existence,  ten  were  rendered  insolvent.  Yet,  not- 
withstanding this  severe  conflagration  r..u  loss,  the 
whole  space  was  nearly  covered  with  new  and  more 
costly  buildings  in  less  than  one  year  thereafter  ! 


114 


Ur.w  YORK. 


Trinitt  Chduch,  in  Broadway,  at  the  head  of  Wall 
Btreet,  from  iis  antiqun  appearance,  generally  attracts 
the  notice  of  strangera.  Tho  first  church  on  this  spot 
was  erected  in  1G96.  Originally  small,  it  was  enlarged 
in  1737  ;  but  during  tho  fire  which  destroyed  the  west 
part  of  the  city  in  177G,  while  tho  British  troops  were  in 
possession,  it  was  destroyed,  and  not  rebuilt  till  1788t 
Tho  present  building  is  of  stone,  in  Gothic  style,  and 
much  like  tho  old  one,  except  a  diminution  in  size,  and 
has  a  steeple  198  feet  high.  It  contains  a  chime  of 
bells,  the  only  set  in  the  city,  and  an  excellant  organ. 

The  cemetery  surrounding  it  is  ancient,  and  is  enclos- 
ed by  a  substuiitial  and  costly  iron  railing.  No  inter- 
ments have  taken  place  in  this  cemetery  for  some  years^ 
owing  to  a  law  prohibiting  sepulture  within  tho  popu- 
lous parts  of  the  city  ;  but  it  has  been  ascertained  by 
authentic  records  kept,  that  more  than  om  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand  bodies  have  been  here  deposited,  exclu- 
sive of  the  7  years  of  the  revolutionary  war,  when  no 
records  were  kept.  Among  the  illustrious  dead  who 
repose  in  this  hallowed  spot,  are  the  remains  of  Gen< 
Hamilton  and  Capt.  Lawrence.  The  monument  over 
the  grave  of  the  former  contains  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : 

"  To  the  memory  of  Alexander  Hamilton,  the 
corporation  of  Trinity  Church  has  erecteu  this  monu- 
ment in  testimony  of  their  respect  for  the  patriot  of  in- 
corruptible integrity,  the  soldier  of  approved  valor,  the 
statesman  of  ^^on?,ummaie  wisdom,  whose  talents  and 
whose  virtues  will  e  admired  by  grateful  posterity^long 
after  this  marble  hb'>.^  have  mouldered  into  dust.  He 
died  July  2, 1804,  ageu  4V." 


^ 


r4KW-T0llK. 


US 


Tho  monument  to  the  memory  of  Capt.  Lawrpnco, 
who  was  killed  during  Iho  last  war,  in  nn  cngagemerit 
between  the  U.  S.  frigate  Chesapeake,  which  he  com- 
manded, and  the  British  fri!:;atc  Shannon,  represents  a 
broken  column,  ns  vmhi  'matical  of  his  premature  death. 
It  was  crccter'  at  i!ic  ■  X|  tiise  of  the  corporation. 

Within  Lhe  c.hMrch,  in  rear  of  the  altar,  and  directly 
facing  t'  'J  entrant';  of  the  aisle,  is  a  beautiful  and  costly 
moniv),  '  I,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  distinguished 
nnd  lamented  Bi  hop  Hobart.  The  desijrn  is  allegori- 
cal, and  highly  expressive  of  tho  poetry  of  the  art,  and 
the  inscription  chaste  and  appropriate. 

St.  Paul's  Chapel  is  a  superb  structure  further  up 
Broadway,  near  the  Park.     It  contains  a  portico  of  the 
Ionic  order,  consisting  of  four  fluted  pillars  of  brown 
stone,  supporting  a  pediment,  with  a  niche  in  the  cen- 
tre containing  a  statue  of  St.  Paul.     Under  the  portico 
is  a  handsome  monument  erected  by  order  of  Congress 
to  the  memory  of  Gen.  Montgomery,  who  fell  at  tho 
storming  of  Cluebec  in  1775,  and  whose  remains  were 
brought  to  New- York  and  interred  beneath  the  monu- 
ment in  1819.  The  spire  of  tho  church  is  234  feet  high  ; 
and  the  whole  building  is  esteemed  one  of  the  best 
specimens  of  architecture  in  ,  he  city.     In  the  church 
yard  adjoining  ip  an  elegant  monument  recently  erected 
the  ni      -rry  of  Thomas   Addis  Emmet,  an  eminent 
counsellor  at  law,  and  brother  of  the  unfortunate  Irish 
orator,  RobertEmmet.    Tfie  plinth  of  the  monument  is 
one  entire  block,  7  feet  square  and   12  inches  thick. 
The  Egyptian  obeUsk,  standing-  on  its  base,  is  rise  in  a 
single  piece,  and  is  rising  of  thirty -two  feet  high.    The 
face  towards  Broadway  is  embellished  with  the  Ameri- 


m 


Nfcw.routt. 


rnn  ph«?1(',  slicllcrinjja  hnrp  nnHtninn;,  with  tt  mcdnllion 
liknifSM  of  I'limuef,  aiul  with  twocluHpcil  handH,  hiwiiij; 
hUwa  unuititl  Olio  wriMl  iiiul  Hh!iiurocU«  arotind  thn  other. 
Ou  th«'  laco  iVontiniyf  IhoiuhvHy  in  uii  KtiiiHph  ;  on  that 
towards  St.  PimPn  chuirh,  a  Latin ;  and  on  that  to- 
wardM  I'^dton  Mmrt,  an  liiwh  inflcription. 

St.  John's  CiiArnL,  in  Variok  atirrt,  oppof^ito  llnd- 
son  Sipuirc,  is^  an  chMjant.  «Mhlici»,  wnd  the;  most  r.\|)nn- 
8ivo  rhuivh  in  the  city,  liavin»j;oo.stmorc  than  $'JOO,()00, 
Its  Hpiro  is  '210  t'crt  in  ht'i«»ht. 

St.  PATUirK'sCATHicnuAi.jUUonmnCatljolicM'ljurch, 
in  Mott  sfroct,  is  ono  of  tho  hirjsjfcst  rch/nony  cditicM'S 
in  Now-York.  It  ia  hnilt  ofwtonr,  120  tort  lon«r,  80 
t'oet  wido,  and  is  a  conspicuous  object  in  approaching 
tho  city  tVoni  tlio  cast. 

Thcro  arc  about  l.'iO  otiior  churches  in  tho  city,  many 
of  which  wcro  erected  at  u  very  considerable  oTcpense, 
and  arc  ornaments  to  those  sections  of  the  city  in  which 
they  stand. 

Ooi.uMniA  CoLLEOR,  obove  tho  City  Hall,  was  chnr- 
tored  m  17,">0,  tnuler  the  name  of  King's  College.  Tho 
cditiee  and  adjoininjr  jjronnds  arc  extensive,  and  are  ad- 
vantaireously  and  handsomely  located.  Tho  collego 
contains  a  cluipel,  lecture  rooms,  hall,  library,  nmsemn, 
and  an  cxten.'^ivo  philosophical  and  astronomical  appa- 
ratus. The  Hon.  Wim  iam  A.  Duer,  a  gentleman  of 
distinguished  talents  and  learning,  presides  over  the  in- 
stitution. 

The  New-York  University  is  situated  between 
Washington-place  and  Waveily- place,  and  fronts 
Washington  square  towards  the  west.  The  building  is 
of  marble,  100  tect  wide  and  180  feet  long,  exhibiting  a 


NRW-TOriK. 


117 


Bpecimon  of  iho  EngliHhcollo^iato  style  of  architfictiiro, 
and  forms  a  nohio  onmrriciit  to  the  Rquuro  und  to  the 
part  of  tlio  city  in  wliicli  it  HtiindH. 

Tho  Amkrican  Acadkmy  ok  tiik  Fink  Arts,  is  sit- 
uritcd  in  |]ar(;luy  Htroct,  near  iinmdway.  It  cxIiibitHan- 
nually  in  May  a  (ino  colh.ction  of  paintingn,  HCul|)turo, 
&.C.  A  part  of  tliOHc  woro  received  from  I^iapoleon, 
wliilo  l«'irHt  CooMul  of  Franco. 

'JMio  Nicw-YouK  llnHjoiucAi.  SociKTY  In  Clinmbcrs 
street,  corn<!r  of  IJroadvvay,  liaHa  library  of  JO,OUO  vol- 
umcH,  and  a  vahial>l(U'.ollection  ofcoioH  and  minerals. 

TIkjIMkvv-V'ohk  Socikty  Liit)iiAiiY,in  Nassau  street, 
was  commenced  in  1740,  and  at  tho  commoncomcnt  of 
tho  revolution  containfid  3000  volumes,  which  were 
dosfroycul  or  taken  away  by  tho  Britiuh  troops.  It 
was  ro  established  in  1780,  and  now  consists  of  about 
20,000  volumes,  many  of  which  aro  very  rare  and  val- 
uable. 

The  Mf.ucantii.k  LiBUAriY  Assosiation,  in  Clinton 
Hall,  has  a  library  of  about  10,000  volumes. 

The  CoLLKon  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons  is  at 
present  in  iJarclay  street,  near  Broadway,  but  is  soon 
to  be  removed  to  u  commodious  building  in  Crosby 
street. 

The  Park  Theatre  is  a  spacious  edifice,  adjoining 
the  Park.  It  was  originally  built  in  1 708,  at  an  expen:ie 
of  vS  1 79,000,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1820,  and  re-built 
the  following  year.  It  is  80  feet  long,  105  deep,  and  55 
high,  and  has  generally  been  more  liberally  patronized 
than  any  other  theatre  in  the  city. 

There  is  also  an  Italian  Opera  house  at  the  corner  of 
Church  and  Leonard  streets,  a  theatre  in  Chatham 


118 


NEW-TORK. 


Street,  and  a  circus  at  the  corner  of  Varick  and  Charl' 
ton  streets. 

The  American  Museum  is  opposite  St.  Paul's  church 
in  Broadway,  and  contains  an  immense  collection  of 
natural  and  artificial  curiosities. 

Peale's  Museum  and  Gallery  of  the  Fine  Arts 
is  opposite  the  Park,  and  contains  specimens  of  natural 
history,  paintings,  a  superior  cosmorama  and  lecture 
room. 

NiBLo's  Garden,  corner  of  Broadway  and  Prince 
street,  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  places  of  resort  in 
the  city.  Tt  has  been  laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  is 
decorated  with  shrubbery,  flowers,  &c.  In  the  saloon, 
which  is  airy  and  elegant,  theatrical  and  musical  enter- 
tainments are  frequently  given. 

Of  the  public  squares  and  parks,  besides  those  already 
noticed,  are  the  Bowlixg  Green,  located  at  the  south- 
ern termination  of  Broadway  ;  Hudson  Square,  or  St. 
John's  Park,  in  the  north-west  part  of  the  city,  be- 
longing to  Trinity  Cljurch;  Washington  Square,  a 
mile  and  a  half  north  of  the  City  Hall ;  Union  Place, 
at  the  junction  of  Broadway  and  the  Bowery;  and 
Gramency  Park,  two  miles  north  of  the  City  Hall. 


HOTELS. 

AsTOR  House,  Broadway,  near  St.  Paul's  church. 
This  building,  erected  by  John  Jacob  Astor,  is  compos- 
ed almost  entirely  of  eastern  granite,  and  presents  a 
most  noble  and  imposing  appearance.  It  contains  390 
rooms,  and  can  accommodate  about  300  guests. 

The  City  Hotel,  a  few  doors  north  of  Trinity 
church,  Broadway,  is  an  old  and  highly  respectable 


MEW-TORK. 


119 


establishment,  containing  more  than  100  parlors  and 
lodging  rooms,  (many  of  them  designed  for  private  fam- 
ilies) besides  an  assembly  room,  principally  used  for 
concerts.  The  rooms  are  furnished  in  good  style,  and 
the  house,  from  its  central  location  and  good  accommo- 
dations,  has  always  enjoyed  an  extensive  patronage. 

The  American  Hotel  is  delightfully  situated,  front- 
ing the  Park  in  Broadway,  and  is  among  the  most  fa- 
vored establishments  in  the  city.  It  is  five  stories  high, 
and  extends  on  Barclay  street  to  the  college  of  Physi- 
cians and  Surgeons.  Its  public  and  private  parlors  and 
lodging  rooms,  which  are  numerous,  are  furnished  in 
the  best  style,  and  it  is  extensively  patronized  by  a 
fashionable  and  respectable  company. 

The  Mansion  House,  (Bunker's)  39  Broadway,  is  a 
house  of  fashionable  resort,  with  extensive  and  neat 
acco  m  mod  ation  s. 

The  Atlantic  Hotel,  5  Broadway,  near  the  Batte- 
ry, is  a  charming  location  for  such  as  are  fond  of  partial 
retirement  from  the  bustle  incident  to  a  crowded  street. 

The  Franklin  House,  197  Broadway,  has  an  ex- 
cellent reputation,  and  is  well  patronized. 

Holt's  Hotel,  forming  an  allinemeni  on  three 
streets,  the  one  part  in  Water,  another  in  Pearl,  and  its 
eastern  limit  facing  on  Fulton  street,  and  occupying  the 
entire  block,  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  establish- 
ments in  the  city.  It  is  built  of  white  marble,  and  is 
six  stories  high,  exclusive  of  the  basement,  having  an 
attic  of  ample  dimensions,  and  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
quadrangular  tower,  around  which  there  is  an  extensive 
and  pleasant  promenade.  Above  this  there  is  a  spa- 
cious rotunda,  from  whose  exalted  summit  a  view  is 
k2 


! 


120 


NEW-TORE. 


:&■. 


obtained  of  nearly  the  whole  city,  the  East  river,  Brook- 
lyn,  part  of  Long  Island,  the  entire  upper  bay  and  har- 
bor, Staten  Island,  a  very  considerable  extent  of  the 
Hudson  river  and  the  Jersey  shore. 

Besides  the  above,  the  following  are  among  the  prin- 
cipal public  houses  in  the  city : 

Washington  Hotel,  282  Broadway ;  Clinton  Ho- 
tel, Beekman,  corner  of  Nassau  street;  Congress 
Hall,  142  Broadway;  Exchange  Hotel,  10  and  12 
Broad  street ;  Lovejoy's  Hotel,  Park  Row  ;  Nation- 
al Hotel,  112  Broadway ;  North  American  Hotel, 
30  Bowery  ;  Tammany  Hall,  166  Nassau  street. 

There  are  also  a  number  of  private  boarding  houses, 
kept  with  much  taste  and  on  an  extensive  scale.  They 
are  mostly  between  the  Battery  and  Grace  church,  in 
Broadway. 

The  prices  at  these  houses  vary  from  $1  to  $2,50  per 
day,  and  from  $8  to  $12  per  week. 

In  point  of  pooulation,  this  city  is  the  first  in  the 
United  States,  it  having  contained  in  1835,  269,873  in- 
habitants, and  in  respect  of  trade  it  is  now  and  will 
probably  continue  the  first  commercial  metropolis  in 
America.  Though  it  cannot  vie  with  Philadelphia,  in 
point  of  beauty  and  regularity.  New- York  exhibits  an 
air  of  novelty  and  grandeur  very  imposing  to  a  stran^ 
ger.  Its  ever  bustling  streets  and  crowded  wharves, 
indicate  an  uncommon  spirit  of  commercial  enterprise. 
Its  local  situation  embraces  every  advantage  for  com- 
merce ;  and  the  canals,  by  opening  an  easy  communi- 
cation between  the  fertile  regions  of  the  west  and  north 
and  the  city  of  New- York,  have  produced  an  astonish- 
ing change  in  its  growth  and  prosperity.    At  no  very 


NCW-TORE. 


181 


distant  period,  New* York,  with  all  its  natural  and  ar» 
tificial  advantages,  will  probably  become  the  greatest 
commercial  metropolis  in  the  world. 

Packets. — The  Liverpool  line  of  packets  consists  of 
sixteen  ships  of  the  first  class,  one  of  which  sails 
weekly  from  each  city. 

The  London  line  of  packets  consists  of  eight  large 
ships,  one  of  which  sails  from  each  city  once  in  two 
weeks. 

The  New- York  and  Havre  line  consists  of  sixteen 
ships,  one  of  which  sails  weekly  from  each  city. 

New-Orleans  packets  sail  from  New- York  on  the 
5th,  8th,  13th,  20th,  22d  and  28th,  and  from  New-Or- 
leans on  the  1st,  5th,  13th,  15th,  20th  and  28th  of  each 
month. 

There  are  also  lines  of  packets  to  Kingston,  (Ja- 
maica,) Carthagena,  Mexico,  and  to  all  the  principal 
southern  ports. 

The  Steam  Boats,  for  Philadelphia  start  from  the 
north  side  of  the  Battery;  for  Charleston,  S.  C.  near 
the  foot  of  Morris  street;  for  Providence  and  Boston; 
near  the  foot  of  Morris  street,  and  from  the  foot  of  Mur- 
ray street  on  the  North  river  side  of  the  city  ;  for  New- 
Haven  and  Hartford,  near  the  foot  of  Beekman  street, 
on  the  East  river ;  for  Albany  and  Troy  and  the  inter- 
mediate landings,  at  the  foot  of  Courtlandt  and  Barclay 
streets. 

Public  Coaches. — Strangers  visiting  New- York  are 
liable  to  suffer  from  exorbitant  exactions  for  coach  hire. 
To  guard  against  this,  the  corporation  have  licenced  an 
adequate  number  of  hackmen,  who  may  be  found  at 
several  convenient  stands  in  the  city,  each  coach  being 


122 


EXCURSIONS. 


numbereck  The  ruL^s  and  regulations  to  which  they 
are  subjected,  can  be  found  in  the  "Picture  of  New- 
York  and  Stranger's  Guide,"  published  by  Mr.  Good- 
rich, 124  Broadway. 

An  excursion  to  the  upper  parts  of  the  city,  and  to 
Greenwich,  can  be  effected  at  almost  any  finie  during 
the  day,  in  an  omnibus,  of  which  there  are  very  great 
numbers  constantly  passing  through  Broadvv^a}'  and 
Wall  street.  The  usual  charo^c  in  these  carriages, 
which  have  their  regular  routes,  is  12^  cents. 


mo 

cr 

wi 

est 
na 


EXCURSIONS. 

Among  the  numerous  places  of  fashionable  resort  in 
the  vicinity  of  New- York,  are  Governor's,  Bcdlow's 
and  Staten  Islands,  within  the  harbor;  Orange  Springs, 
near  Newark,  Paterson,  the  Passaic  Falls,  Hoboken 
and  Weehawk,  Schooley's  Mountain,  and  Long  Branch, 
in  New-Jersey,  on  the  west ;  Manhattan  IsIanJ,  on  the 
north  ;  and  the  tour  of  Long  Island  on  the  east. 

Governor's  and  BedloiD''s  Islands  are  usually  approach- 
ed only  in  row  boats,  and  are  less  frequented  on  that 
account. 

Staten  Island^  south  of  the  city,  was  noticed  at  page 
106. 

In  an  excursion  to  Paterson  and  to  lliu  Passaic  Falls 
the  Paterson  rail  road,  which  commences  at  Jersey 
City,  and  which  was  noticed  at  p.  1 10,  is  taken.  The 
whole  length  of  the  rond  is  about  15  miles,  in  a  north- 
westerly direction  from  New- York,  and  affords  an  easy 
conveyance  to  the  Passaic  Falls  and  the  thriving  man- 
ufacturing village  in  their  vicinity.  The  perpendicular 
pitch  is  70  feet  into  a  narrow  and  rocky  chasm,  though 


■I 


i 


RARLACM  RAIL  ROAD. 


123 


most  of  the  water  has  been  diverted  into  a  canal  in  anoth  • 
cr  direction,  for  hydraulic  purposes  ;  still  the  scenery  is 
wild  and  imposing,  and  the  falls  are  among  the  great- 
est natural  curiosities  of  this  country.  The  Morris  ca* 
nal,  noticed  at  p.  101,  passes  near  them. 

Hoboken  and  Weehawk  are  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson  river,  opposite  the  northern  parts  of  New- York, 
near  which  is  the  Hoboken  duelling  ground^  which  can- 
not be  easily  approached,  except  in  a  boat.  A  monu- 
ment was  here  erected  some  years  since  to  the  memory 
of  Gen.  Hamilton  :  but  it  has  since  been  removed. 

Schooley^s  JVfownfain,  50  miles  west  of  New- York,  was 
noticed  at  p.  103. 

Long  Branch,  is  30  miles  south  of  New- York,  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  New-Jersey,  and  on  the  immediate 
bank  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  an  extensive  view  of  which 
is  here  obtained.  A  bathing  establishment  is  erected, 
and  the  bank,  which  is  elevated  to  a  height  of  30  or 
40  feet  for  several  miles,  afibrds  a  beautiful  promenade. 
Sandy  Hook  and  Neversink  can  be  visited  on  this  route, 
the  heights  of  the  latter  affording  an  extensive  view  of 
the  marine  coast. 

The  Harlaem  Rail  Road  commences  at  Spring 
street  in  the  Bowery,  and  extends  to  Harlaem,  7i  miles 
distant.  The  tunnel  at  Yorkville,  about  5  miles  from 
Spring  street,  through  a  solid  rock  of  some  extent,  is 
an  object  of  curiosity,  and  will  of  itself  amply  compen- 
sate a  traveller  for  a  trip  over  the  road.  In  approach- 
ing Harlaem,  the  Assylum  for  the  insane,  on  very  ele- 
vated ground  and  the  heights  of  Fort  Washington  are 
readily  distinguished. 


1S4 


HURL  GATE—BROOKLTW, 


In  returning,  by  taking  n  private  carriage  and  pass- 
ing down  the  East  rivRr  side,  Hurl  Gate,  the  Aims- 
House  and  Houso  of  Ilcfujro  inny  bo  visited. 

Hurl  Gate  is  a  narrow  and  appiirontly  a  dangerous 
strait  in  the  river,  8  miles  from  tlio  city,  between  the 
islands  of  Manhattan  and  Parscll  on  the  N.  W.  and 
Long  Island  on  the  S.  K.  in  which,  at  low  water,  there 
are  numerous  whirlpools  or  currents,  occasioned  by 
huge  masses  of  rock  projcclinf?  in  various  places,  giv- 
ing to  the  river  only  a  very  contracted  passa<»e.  At 
high  water,  these  masses  arc  more  or  loss  concealed, 
and  the  current  is  in  a  degree  unrulTlc^d.  Losses  of 
vessels  were  formerly  experienced  here;  but  none  have 
been  known  in  some  years. 


th 

fja 

rn 

a 

Y( 

try 


il 


Brooklyn,  (on  Long  Island,)  directly  opposite  New- 
York,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  East  river,  is 
reached  by  steam  boats,  which  arc  constantly  plying  at 
the  ferry  between  Fulton  street  in  New- York  and  Ful- 
ton street  in  Brooklyn  ;  at  the  ferry  from  Catharine 
street  in  N.  York  to  Main  street  in  Brooklyn  ;  at  the 
Jackson  street  or  Navy  Yard  ferry;  and  at  the  south 
ferrv  between  Whitehall  in  New- York  and  Atlantic 
street  in  Brooklyn.  The  <>rowth  of  Brooklyn  (which 
was  chartered  as  a  city  in  1834)  lias  been  almost 
unexampled.  In  1820,  it  had  a  population  of  only 
7000  ;  in  1830,  of  l.'i,394  ;  and  in  1835,  of  about  25,000. 
Besides  several  public  buildings,  including  a  City  Hall, 
which  is  now  erecting,  the  city  contains  17  churches,  3 
banks,  2  insurance  companies,  and  several  literary  in- 
stitutions ;  among  which,  the  Collegiate  Institute  for 
Young  Ladies  stands  pre-eminent.     Its  contiguity  to 


nnOOKLTN. 


185 


all, 
s,3 
in- 
fer 


Oio  molropolis,  and  tho  facilities  afTorded  for  communi' 
fating  between  the  two  places,  have  induced  many 
merchants  and  men  of  business  to  select  Brooklyn  as 
a  residence  in  preference  to  the  upper  parts  of  New- 
York.  The  former  also  contains  several  elegant  coun^ 
try  seats  and  public  gardens.  Those  on  the  bank 
conti<rMons  to  the  East  river,  from  their  elevated  sit- 
uation, ovorlookinrr  iho  bay  of  New-York,  and  com- 
manding a  vit-'W  of  a  great  part  of  that  city,  arc  pecu- 
liarly attractive  and  romantic.  North'eastwardly,  on 
a  tract  of  land  called  the  Wallabout,  is  a  U.  S.  navy 
yard,  where  are  erected  a  house  for  the  commandant, 
several  spacious  ware  houses,  and  an  immense  wooden 
edifice,  under  which  the  largest  ships  of  war  are  built. 
The  steam  frigate  Fulton,  which  lay  near  the  navy 
yard,  and  which  was  an  object  of  attraction,  was  blown 
up  at  this  place  in  1829,  occasioning  the  loss  of  several 
lives. 

Brooklyn  is  intimately  connected  with  important 
events  of  the  revolution,  and  in  its  vicinity  are  pointed 
out  some  remaining  vestiges  of  fortifications  and  mili- 
tary works  erected  during  that  eventful  period.  The 
road  to  Flatbush  (4  miles  east)  crosses  tho  ground  on 
which  the  battle  of  the  27th  July,  1 776,  was  fought, 
which  resulted  in  a  severe  loss  to  the  Americans  and 
the  capture  of  Generals  Sullivan  and  Sterling.  The 
marshes  in  which  so  many  lives  were  lost  in  retreating 
from  the  British  army  are  south  of  this. 

The  Brooklyn,  Jamaica  and  Long  Island  Rail 
Road  commences  at  the  Atlantic  street  or  south  ferry, 
and  is  already  completed  to  Jamaica,  a  pleasant  village 
12  miles  distant.    From  thence  it  is  to  be  extended  to 


12A 


rnOM    NF.W.TOHK    TO    ALttANT. 


Snp  Ilnrbor  on  t)m  cnst  ond  of  Long  Island,  al)OUt  87 
milca  from  Janmicii,  und  i.s  inleiulrd  nt*  a  Mubntitutu  fur 
Rtotun  bout  navi<;ulion  un  tho  tSoiind. 

From  Juninicu  to  Uockaway,  bordorinir  on  the  At- 
lantir,  ia  9  nubs,  i^'xucv  tho  erection  of  Urn  Mnrino 
Pavilion,  one  of  the  most  elegant  pnblic,  cptublislnnonts 
in  the  nnioii,  this  Ima  beeoniv'  u  pljK-o  of  nnich  resort  in 
tho  sumnrn'  months.  Tho  buildinjj  is  plueed  npon  the 
margin  of  the  ocean,  and  as  near  to  it  as  the  nature  of 
the  ground  would  allow.  Ita  front  is  230  feel,  with  a 
piazza  the  whole  length  of  twenty  feet  wide,  Bupport- 
cd  by  columns,  and  with  one  in  tho  rear,  of  nearly 
the  same  dimensions.  The  depth  of  tho  main  body 
of  the  building  is  forty  feet,  with  wings  at  each  end. 
The  dining  room  is  110  feet  in  length,  and  as  it  is  the 
whole  width  of  the  buildin*]',  two  rows  of  largo  win- 
dows obviate  that  greatest  of  all  evils  in  a  public  houst, 
n  hot  atmosphere  arising  from  a  hot  dinner  on  a  hot 
day.  The  ladies'  drawing  room  is  spacious,  and  is 
lightly  and  most  appropriately  furnished,  and  the  house 
can  conveniently  accommodate  about  300  guests. 

A  fine  view  of  the  ocean  is  obtained  from  the  balco- 
ny of  the  Pavilion,  which,  from  its  unceasing  roar  and 
turbulence,  is  rendered  unusually  sublime. 


PROM  NEW-YORK    TO   ALBANY, 

A  distance,  by  water,  of  144  miles,  and  by  land, 
measuring  between  the  respective  post  olHcos,  of  IGO 
miles,  a  connnunication  is  alternately  kept  up  by  a  line 
of  stages  in  the  winter  season,  and  by  steam  boats  dur- 
ing the  absence  of  ice  in  tho  Hudson.  The  following 
is  a  table  of  distances  bo^'^^.en  the  two  places  : 


rilOM    NRW-TORK    TO    ALBANY. 


127 


Distance  by  water  from 


§    • 


o 

C 

a 


o 


New- York, 

Wcehawkcn, 6      6 

Palisadoes,  southern  termination, 2      8 

Fort  Washington, 4     12 

Tappan  Bay,  southern  extremity, 12    24 

Sing  Sing 8    32 

Haverstravv  Bay, 2    34 

Stoney  Point, 5    39 

Vcrplanck's  Point, 1     40 

Horse  Race,  (Highlands,) 4i...  2    42 

Anthony's  Nose, 3    45 

West  Point, 5    50 

PoUopcl  Island, 6    56 

Newburgh, 4    60 

Milton, 11     71 

Poughkeepsie, # 4    75 

HydePark, 5    80 

Rhinebeck, 10    90 

Redhook,  lower  landing, 7    97 

Redhook,  upper  do 3  100 

CatskiU, 11  111 

Hudson, 5  116 

Coxsackie, 8  124 

Kinderhook, 2  126 

New-Baltimore, 4  130 

Schodack, 4  134 

Albany, 10  144 


s 

< 

144 

138 

136 

132 

120 

112 

110 

105 

104 

102 

99 

94 

88 

84 

73 

68 

63 

53 

46 

43 

32 

27 

19 

18 

13 

9 


1S8 


PASSAGE   OF    THE   HUDSON. 


Bonts  loavo  New- York  for  Albany  at  7  o'clock  A. 
M.  and  at  5  P.  M.,  and  the  trip  is  usually  pcrfurmcd  in 
from  12  to  14  hours — fare  $3,  cxdusivc  of  mcala.  A 
morning  boat  will  prove  the  mo!*t  interesting  to  those 
who  have  never  performed  the  route  by  day- li^dit ;  aa 
it  will  afford  an  oj)portunity  of  witnessing  the  rich 
scenery  and  numerous  villages  and  country  scats  be- 
tween the  two  ci'ios. 

THE    PASSAGE   OF  THE   HUDSON. 

Besides  the  pleasure  of  a  steam  boat  passage,  the 
Hudson  river  presents  to  the  tourist  a  variety  of  natu- 
ral scenery  which  it  will  bo  dilBcult  to  find  elsewhere 
ill  a  journey  of  the  same  extent.  To  the  gratification 
derived  from  a  prospect  of  the  beautiful  and  sublime 
objects  of  nature,  the  effect  of  the  most  striking  contrast 
is  added,  to  render  the  scene  truly  picturesque  and  en- 
chanting. On  the  one  hand  are  seen  summits,  crown- 
ed with  forests,  apparently  impenetrable  to  the  foot- 
steps of  cultivation  ;  and  on  tiie  other,  beautiful  and 
extensive  lawns,  checkered  with  the  abodes  of  hus- 
bandry, and  glowing  in  all  the  rich  verdure  of  summer ; 
while,  in  the  same  circumstances  of  vision,  may  be  seen 
the  fading  view  of  some  town  or  city,  and  in  perspec- 
tive a  perpetual  opening  scenery  of  forests  and  cultiva- 
tion, plains  and  mountains,  towns  and  villages,  impart- 
ing to  the  beholder  all  the  charms  of  novelty,  with  the 
highest  emotions  of  the  subUme. 

Weehawken,  about  6  miles  from  the  city,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  pointed  out  to  the  traveller  as 
the  ground  on  which  Gen.  Hamilton  fell  in  a  duel  with 


pv 


PALISAD0I9— FORT    LEK. 


It9 


Col.  Burr.  It  is  a  small  spot  on  the  margin  of  the  riv- 
er, with  huge  rocks  on  three  sides,  eiToctuully  screen- 
ing  it  from  the  observation  of  man,  except  from  the  riv- 
er ;  and  probably  has,  for  that  cause,  been  selected  ai 
a  suitable  place  fur  settling  ofluirs  of  honor.  Till  with- 
in a  few  years,  it  cont:iined  a  monument  erected  to  tho 
memory  of  Gen.  Hamilton  by  the  St.  Andrews  society  ; 
but  it  has  been  removed.  His  body  was  deposited  in 
tho  ground  attached  to  Tftnity  Church  in  the  city, 
where  there  is  a  handsome  monument,  enclosed  in  an 
iron  railing.     (See  page  1 14.) 


The  Palis  A  DOES,  which  first  make  their  appearance 
on  the  Hudson,  about  8  miles  from  New- York,  are  a 
range  of  rocks  from  20  to  550  feet  in  height,  and  ex- 
tend from  thence  to  Tappan,  a  distance  of  about  20 
miles.  In  some  places  they  rise  almost  perpendicular- 
ly from  the  shore,  and  form,  for  several  miles  in  extent, 
a  solid  wall  of  rock,  diversified  only  by  an  occasional 
fishing  hut  on  tho  beach  at  their  base,  or  wood  slides 
down  their  sides,  and  sometimes  by  an  interval  of  a 
few  acres  of  arable  land,  affording  an  opening  for  a 
landing  place,  and  a  steep  road  leading  to  their  top. 
On  the  opposite  sitle  of  the  river,  the  land  is  varied  by 
hill  and  dale,  cultivated  fields  and  woods,  with  cottages 
and  country  seats.  The  land  in  this  place,  however, 
back  from  the  river,  rises  in  rocky  hills,  and  becomes 
more  precipitous  as  you  advance  into  Westchester 
county. 

Twelve  miles  from  New- York,  the  boat  passes  the 
site  of  Fort  Lee,  on  the  brow  of  the  Palisadoes,  at  the 
height  of  300  feet  above  the  river ;  nearly  opposite  to 


130 


TAPPAN  BAT — TARRTTOWN. 


which,  on  a  high  hill  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  stood 
Fort  Washington.  In  October,  1776,  after  the  evac- 
uation of  New- York  by  the  American  troops,  followed 
the  battle  of  White  Plains,  by  which  name  is  known 
the  high  ground  on  the  east,  between  the  Hudson  river 
and  the  Sound  above  Kingsbridge,  whence  Washington 
retreated  to  Peekskill.  Fort  Washington  was  then 
taken  by  the  Hessians  and  British,  and  the  garrison, 
composed  of  2600  militia  and  regular  troops,  surrender- 
ed prisoners  of  war.  The  surrender  of  Fort  Lee  fol- 
lowed soon  after  Washington  crossed  the  Hudson. 
There  was  also  on  the  east  side  another  fort,  called  In- 
dependence. 

Twenty-four  miles  above  New- York  the  river  ex- 
pands and  forms  what  is  called  Tappan  Bat.  The 
little  village  of  Tappan,*  a  place  of  much  note  during 
Andre  and  Arnold's  conspiracy,  is  situated  on  its  wes- 
tern shore.  The  spot  of  Andre's  grave  is  still  pointed 
out  near  this  village,  though  his  remains  were  conveyed 
to  England  a  few  years  since,  by  order  of  the  British 
government.  This  bay  is  from  2  to  5  miles  wide,  and 
8  miles  long,  terminating  at  Teller's  Point. 

About  a  mile  above  Tappan  village,  on  the  eastern 
shore,  is  the  village  of  Tarrytown,  where  Andre  was 
captured  by  Paulding,  Van  Wart  and  Williams,  the 
American  militia-men.  Paulding  died  some  years  ago, 
and  a  monument  was  erected  over  his  grave  by  the  cor- 
poration of  New- York.    Van  Wart  died  more  recent- 

*  This  is  the  point  at  which  the  New- York  and  Erie 
rail  road  commences,  and  which  it  is  contemplated  to 
extend  to  Lake  Erie,  a  distance  of  about  470  miles. 


HATERSTRAW  BAt — THE  HIGHLANDS. 


131 


ly,  and  a  monument  to  his  memory  has  been  erected  by 
the  citizens  of  Westchester  county.  It  is  a  neat  struc- 
ture of  white  marble,  consisting  of  a  base  of  three  as- 
cending steps,  and  a  pedestal  upon  which  stands  an 
obelisk ;  in  all,  being  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet  high. 
It  stands  by  the  road  side,  in  a  retired  valley  in  the 
town  of  Greenbush,  about  three  miles  east  of  Tarry- 
town. 

Near  the  northern  extremity  of  Tappan  Bay,  on  tho 
eastern  shore,  is  the  Sing  Sing  state  prison.  It  com- 
prises 800  dormitories  or  solitary  cells,  is  4  stories  high, 
and  occupies  about  50  by  500  feet  of  ground.  From 
each  end  of  the  main  building,  which  stands  parallel 
with  the  river,  in  a  westerly  direction,  are  carried  out 
wings,  300  feet  in  extent,  forming  a  spacious  inner 
yard,  open  only  to  the  river.  The  wings,  composed  of 
marble,  are  constructed  for  workshops,  a  chapel,  kitch- 
en, hospital,  &c.  The  chapel  is  of  sufficient  dimen- 
sions to  hold  900  persons.  The  keeper^a  house,  on  the 
south-eastern  end  of  the  main  building,  is  also  con- 
structed of  marble.  The  number  of  convicts  in  the 
prison  is  usually  from  800  to  1000.  Its  erection  was 
commenced  in  1825,  and  its  cost  is  estimated  at  rising 
of  $200,000. 

Havers  TRAW  Bat  commences  34  miles  from  New- 
York,  and  terminates  at  Stoney  and  Verplanck's 
Points ;  being  about  6  miles  in  length,  and  from  2  to  4 
in  width.  Haverstraw  village  is  on  the  west  side  of 
this  bay. 

The  Highlands,  or  Fishkill  Mountains,  which  firit 
appear  about  40  miles  from  New- York,  will  attract  no- 
l2 


132 


Caldwell's  landing. 


tice,  not  only  from  their  grandeur  and  sublimity,  but  al- 
so from  their  association  with  some  of  the  most  impor- 
tant events  of  the  revolution.  This  chain  of  mountains 
is  about  16  miles  in  width,  and  extends  along  both  sides 
of  the  Hudson,  to  the  distance  of  20  miles .  The  height 
of  the  principal  has  been  estimated  at  1565  feet.  Ac- 
cording to  the  theory  of  the  late  Doctor  Mitchell,  this 
thick  and  solid  barrier  seems  in  ancient  days  to  have 
impeded  the  course  of  the  water,  and  to  have  raised  a 
lake  high  enough  to  cover  all  the  country  to  Ctuaker 
Hill  and  the  Laconick  Mountains  on  the  east,  and  to 
Shawangunk  and  the  Catskill  Mountains  on  the  west; 
extending  to  the  Little  Falls  of  the  Mohawk,  and  to 
Hadley  Falls  on  the  Hudson — but  by  some  convulsion 
of  nature,  the  mountain  chain  has  been  broken,  and  the 
rushing  waters  found  their  way  to  the  now  New- York 
bay.  At  the  entrance  of  the  Highlands,  on  the  south, 
18  the  site  of  an  old  fort  on  Verplanck's  Point,  opposite 
to  which  stood  the  fort  of  Stoney  Point,  which  was  tak- 
en from  Gen.  Wayne  in  1778,  and  re-taken  by  him  the 
same  year. 


Caldwell's  Landing,  45  miles  north  of  New- York, 
is  the  first  landing  made  by  the  boats  m  ascending  the 
river;  directly  opposite  to  which  is  Peekskill,  pleas- 
antly situated  about  half  a  mile  from  the  river. 

A  short  distance  norlh  of  Caldwell's,  commences 
what  is  termed  the  Horse  liace.  This  consists  of  an 
angle  in  the  river,  which,  for  a  little  more  than  a  mile, 
takes  an  eastwardly  direction,  contracted  to  a  very 
narrow  space  within  bold  and  rocky  mountains  ;  one 
of  which,  Anthony's  Nose,  is  1228  feet  high,  and  is 


WEST   POINT. 


133 


opposite  the  mouth  of  Montgomery  creek,  overlooking 
Forts  Montgomery  and  Clinton.  These  forts,  under 
the  command  of  Gen.  Putnam,  were  captured  by  the 
British  troops  under  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  in  1777,  when 
on  his  way  to  co-operate  with  Gen.  Burgoyne  ;  the 
news  of  whose  surrender,  however,  reached  Sir  Henry 
when  he  had  proceeded  as  far  as  Kingston,  50  miles 
higher  up,  and  changed  his  advance  into  a  retreat. 
Bloody  Pond,  so  called  from  its  being  the  place  in 
which  the  bodies  of  the  slain  were  thrown  after  the 
defences  of  these  forts,  is  in  the  rear  of  Fort  Clinton. 

West  Point,  50  miles  from  New- York,  one  of  the 
most  impregnable  posts  during  the  revolutionary  war, 
is  situated  on  the  Avest  side  of  the  Hudson,  near  the 
entrance  of  the  Highlands  on  the  north,  it  formed  an 
important  fastness  of  the  American  army  during  the 
eight  years  contest  with  the  British  nation ;  and  the 
consequence  attached  to  it,  in  a  military  point  of  view, 
was  evinced  by  the  repeated  but  unsuccessful  efibrts  of 
the  enemy  to  obtain  it.  It  was  here  that  Arnold  con- 
ceived the  horrid  purpose  of  bartering  his  country  for 
gold.*  This  conspiracy,  however,  which  aimed  adeath 
blow  to  liberty  in  the  western  hemisphere,  resulted  only 
in  the  universal  contempt  and  ignominy  of  Arnold, 
and  in  the  lamented  death  of  the  unfortunate  Andre. 


*  The  residence  of  Gen.  Arnold  was  at  the  house 
and  farm  of  Col.  Beverly  Robinson,  opposite  West 
Point,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson.  The  house  is 
still  a  conspicuous  object,  as  well  as  the  one  in  which 
Arnold  fixed  his  head  quarters. 


134 


WEST  POINT. 


i^' 


There  are  here  at  present  a  number  of  dweUing-houses, 
and  a  military  academy,  built  on  the  plain  which  forms 
the  bank  of  the  river,  188  feet  in  height,  to  which  a  road 
ascends  on  the  north  side  of  the  point.  In  the  back 
ground,  and  elevated  on  a  mass  of  rocks  598  feet  in 
height,  is  the  site  of  Fort  Putnam.  Silence  and  decay 
now  mark  the  spot  of  this  once  formidable  fortress.  Its 
mouldering  ruins,  however,  convey  a  pretty  correctidea 
of  the  impregnable  barrier  its  ramparts  once  presented 
to  the  enemies  of  freedom. 

The  MiLiTiiRT  Academy  here  established  by  con- 
gress, was  first  organized  under  the  direction  of  the  late 
Gen.  Williams,  in  1802.  Of  the  number  of  applicants 
for  admission  to  this  institution,  a  preference  is  usually 
given,  first,  to  the  sons  of  officers  of  the  revolution ; 
and  secondly,  to  the  sons  of  deceased  officers  of  the  late 
war.  None  are  admitted  under  the  age  of  14  years, 
nor  above  the  age  of  22.  The  number  of  cadets  is  lim- 
ited to  250,  each  of  whom  costs  the  government  $336 
annually  ;  and  the  whole  establishment  is  maintained 
at  an  annual  expense  of  $115,000.  In  addition  to  the 
various  sciences  which  are  taught  here,  the  cadets  axe 
instructed  in  all  the  practical  minutiae  of  tactics ;  com- 
prehending the  lowest  duties  of  the  private  soldier,  as 
well  as  the  highest  duties  of  the  officer.  They  are  also 
required  to  encamp  for  6  or  8  weeks  in  a  year ;  during 
which  time  they  are  instructed  in  the  manner  of  pitching 
and  striking  tents,  yi  the  various  infantry  evolutions, 
and  in  all  the  details  of  the  camp. 

Several  of  the  buildings  at  West  Point  are  elegant, 
and  among  the  number  may  be  ranked  a  spaeiom  and 


WEST    POINT. 


135 


costly  hotel.  It  has  been  erected  in  a  style  and  on  a 
scale  which  render  it  a  great  ornament  to  the  grounds. 
It  is  substantially  built,  and  the  lower  story  is  surround- 
ed on  its  sides  with  extensive  piazzas,  forming  a  de- 
lightful promenade.  Its  rear  is  upon  the  Hudson,  and 
presents  a  delightful  view  up  the  river  through  the 
Highlands.  The  front  faces  the  parade  ground  and 
the  ground  used  for  the  encampment. 

In  the  morning,  the  cadets  drill  as  artillery  ;  in  the 
afternoon  as  infantry.  But  the  principal  attraction  to 
the  visitor  is  the  morning  and  evening  parade,  in  which 
the  whole  battalion,  with  the  exception  of  the  guard,  is 
drawn  out  and  carried  through  the  manual,  by  the  offi- 
cer commanding. 

Near  the  north  eastern  extremity  of  the  grounds,  at 
the  projecting  point  forming  the  abrupt  bend  of  the 
river,  stands  a  monument  of  white  marble,  consisting 
of  a  base  and  short  column,  on  the  former  of  which  is 
simply  inscribed  on  one  side,  "  Kosciusko,"  it  having 
been  erected  to  the  memory  of  that  distinguished  patriot 
who  resided  here.  Another  monument  stands  on  the 
north  west  corner  of  the  grounds  near  the  road  from  the 
landing  to  the  hotel,  upon  a  small  hillock.  It  is  a  plain 
obelisk,  about  20  feet  high,  erected  by  the  late  Gen. 
Brown,  to  the  memory  of  Col.  E.  D.  Wood,  a  pupil  of 
the  institution,  who  fell  leading  a  charge  at  the  sortie 
from  Fort  Erie,  on  the  17th  September,  1814. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Hudson  at  the  south-eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parade  ground,  and  several  yards  beneath, 
is  a  spot  called  Kosciusko's  garden,  or  Kosciusko's 
retreat.  It  is  the  place  to  which  the  Polish  patriot  was 
accustomed  to  retire  to  study,  and  which  was  cultivated 


136 


NEWBURGH. 


by  his  own  hands.  Though  now  neglected,  the  marks 
of  cultivation  are  perceptible  in  the  regularity  of  the 
walks  and  the  arrangement  of  the  trees.  A  more  de> 
lightful  spot  for  recreation  or  repose  cannot  bo  imagin- 
ed,  nor  one  more  suitable  as  a  retreat  from  the  cares  of 
the  great  world,  or  a  sanctuary  for  unfortunate  patriot- 
ism or  persecuted  virtue. 

PoLLOPEL  Island  is  situated  at  the  northern  entrance 
of  the  Highlands,  6  miles  above  West  Point.  It  consists 
of  a  mass  of  rock,  and  rises  near  the  centre  of  the  river 
between  Breakneck  Hill  on  the  east  and  Butter  Hill  on 
the  west.  The  altitude  of  the  latter  is  1529  feet — the 
former  is  1187  feet  in  height,  and  contains  the  rock 
called  the  Upper  Anthony's  Nose. 

NeW' Windsor.  Passing  the  Highlands,  the  pros- 
pect changes  into  a  very  agreeable  contrast.  The  bay 
of  Newburgh  with  the  village  of  the  same  name,  and 
New-Windsor,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  the  village  of 
Fishkill,  with  its  numerous  adjacent  manufactories  and 
country  seats,  together  with  a  view  of  the  Hudson  for 
many  miles  above,  form  a  prospect  which  cannot  fail 
to  impart  much  interest.  The  village  of  New- Windsor 
stands  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  7  miles  from  West 
Point.  It  is  calculated  for  a  pleasant  place  of  residence, 
but  in  business  it  must  yield  to  the  rival  village  of 

NeWburgh.  This  is  an  incorporated  village,  situa- 
ted on  the  declivity  of  a  hill  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson,  10  miles  north  from  West  Point,  and  84  south 
from  Albany.    It  contains  a  population  of  about  7800 


NEWBURGM. 


137 


lie  marks 
ty  of  the 
more  de- 
3  imagin- 
3  cares  of 
e  patriot- 


entrance 
t  consists 
'  the  river 
it  Hill  on 
feet — the 
the  rock 


the  pros- 
The  bay 
ime,  and 
village  of 
ories  and 
idson  for 
Lnnot  fail 
Windsor 
>m  West 
esidence, 
J  of 

:e,  situa- 
e  of  the 
84  south 
>ut  7800 


s 


inhabitants.  From  its  situation  it  commands  an  exten- 
8/ve  intercourse  and  trade  with  the  country  on  the 
west,  and  by  means  of  the  Hudson  river,  with  New- 
York. 

The  principal  public  houses  in  the  village  are  the 
United  States  Hotel  at  the  steam  boat  wharf;  Orange 
County  House,  Golden  street;  Kivholson's  Hotel, and 
Tuttle's  Hotel. 

The  Hudson  and  Delaware  rail  road,  which  is  to  ex- 
tend from  this  village  to  a  junction  with  the  Psew-York 
and  Erie  rail  road  at  the  Delaware  river,  has  been  com- 
menced. 

Newburgh  was  for  some  time  the  head  quarters  of 
the  American  army  during  the  revolutionary  war ;  and 
the"  stone  house" in  which  Gen.  Washington  quartered 
is  still  standing.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from 
Newburgh  is  Beacon  Hill,  one  of  the  highest  summits 
of  the  Fishkill  mountains,  where  parties  of  pleasure 
frequently  resort  in  the  summer  season,  to  witness  an 
extent  of  prospect  including  a  part  of  the  territories  of 
five  different  states.  This  hill  is  1471  feet  in  height. 
Haifa  mile  south  is  the  New  Beacon,  or  Grand  Sachem, 
1685  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Hudson.  They  are 
called  Beacon  Hills,  from  the  circumstance  that  bea- 
cons were  erected  on  their  summits  during  the  revolu- 
tionaiy  war.  The  continuation  of  this  chain  of  moun- 
tains is  lost  in  the  Appalachian  Range  on  the  north  east, 
and  extends  south  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  Dimin- 
ished in  distance,  is  seen  West  Point,  environed  by 
mountains,  apparently  reposing  en  the  surface  of  the 
Hudson,  and  bathing  their  rocky  summits  in  the 
clouds. 


138 


POUGHKCEPSIE. 


Milton  is  a  small  hamlet,  situated  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Hudson  river,  in  the  town  of  Marlborough,  1 1 
miles  from  Newburgh.  This  place  is  called  the  half- 
way place  between  New- York  and  Albany,  being  72i 
miles  distant  from  each.  Two  and  a  half  miles  south 
of  Milton,  on  the  cast  side  of  the  Hudson,  is  the  mansion 
house  of  the  late  Gov.  George  Clinton. 


PouGHKEEFsiE,  15  milcs  north  of  Newburgh,  is 
beautifully  situated  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  seen  for 
a  considerable  distance  on  the  river  both  above  and  be- 
low the  town.  It  contains  a  population  of  between  8 
and  9G00,  and  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  villages  in 
the  state.  It  contains  a  number  of  beautiful  private 
residences,  and  several  public  buildings  highly  creditable 
to  the  taste  of  the  inhabitants.  The  streets,  which  are 
numerous,  are  well  paved,  and  the  side  walks  ample 
and  neat.  The  prospect  from  Mansion  Square  and  the 
neighboring  hill,  whose  brow  is  to  be  crowned  with  a 
temple  of  learning,  affords  a  landscape  of  great  extent 
and  beauty.  On  the  south  it  overlooks  the  village  and 
the  beautiful  district  of  country  extending  tc  the  Fish- 
kill  range  of  mountains  and  the  Highland?.  On  the 
west  and  north  are  seen  in  the  distance  tha  Shawan- 
gunk  and  Cattskill  mountains,  the  Hudson  river  inter- 
vening; while  on  the  east  the  prospect  is  bounded 
only  by  the  mountainous  regions  of  western  ConnecU- 
cut  and  Massachusetts. 

Among  the  manufacturing  establishments  in  the  vi- 
cinity, of  which  there  are  many,  is  one  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  silk,  the  capital  of  the  company  being  $200,000. 


* 


CATSKII  L. 


139 


R  eal  estate  has  nearly  trebled  in  value  within  a  short 
time — streets  and  buildings  have  been  greatly  extend- 
ed— and  the  prospect  of  a  rapidly  increasing  and  very 
extensive  growth  is  highly  flattering. 

About  5  miles  north  of  Poughkcepj-ic  is 

Hyde  Park  Landing,  on  the  cast  side  of  the  Hud- 
son river,  near  which  arc  a  number  of  country  seats. 
From  thence  4  miles  up  the  river  is  a  landing  place, 
leading  to  Staatsburg,  one  mile  distant,  in  the  town  of 
Hyde  Park.  From  thence  to  Rhincbeck  Landing  is  5 
miles,* — thence  to  Rcdhook  Lower  Landing  is  7  miles 
— thence  to  Redhook  Upper  Landing,  3  miles — thence 
2  miles  to  the  seat  of  the  late  Chancellor  Livingston — 
thenco  7  miles  to  the  manor  house  of  the  late  Lord 
Livingston — thence  one  mile  to  Oakhill — thence  one 
mile  to 


Catskill.  This  village  takes  its  name  from  a  large 
creek  which  flows  through  it,  and  empties  into  the 
Hudson  at  that  place.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  river,  32  miles  from  Albany,  and  contains  about 


*  Near  this  place,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  is 
Kingston  Landing,  and  the  commencement  of  the 
Delaware  and  Hudson  canal.  It  extends  in  a  south- 
west wardly  direction  to  the  forks  of  the  Dyberry  on  the 
Lackawaxen  river,  Pennsylvania,  distant  103  miles, 
lockage  1438  feet.  It  was  originady  intended  by  the 
company  to  have  made  this  canal  to  Keen's  pond,  13 
miles  from  its  present  termination,  but  it  has  been 
abandoned  and  a  rail  road  substituted,  which  extends  3 
miles  west  of  Keen's  pond  to  the  anthracite  coal  mines 
of  Pennsylvania. 

M 


140 


FINE  ORCHAnO. 


350  dwellings,  and  a  population  of  about  5000  inhabi- 
tants. On  Catskill  creek  arc  a  number  of  mills  and 
manufactories,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  vil- 
lage is  highly  flattering,  as  it  respects  its  future  growth 
and  prosperity.  The  Catskill  and  Canajohario  rail  road, 
under  contract,  commences  at  this  place,  and  is  to  ex- 
tend to  Canajohario,  on  the  Mohawk  river,  distant 
about  70  miles. 

Catskill  is  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  tho 
Katsbergs  or  Catskill  mountains,  which  arc  seen  for 
many  miles  along  the  Hudson,  and  heve  assi^ume  a  truly 
majestic  aud  sublime  appearance.  The  highest  eleva- 
tion of  this  range  of  mountains  is  in  the  county  of 
Greene,  from  8  to  12  miles  distant  from  the  river,  in- 
cluding the  Round  Top,  3304  feet,  and  Hi[;h  PettJc,  3718 
feet  in  height.  The  village  of  Catskill,  which  was  for- 
merly visiecd  principally  by  men  of  business,  has  more 
recently  become  the  resort  of  people  of  fashion  and 
J  leasurc,  who  de:sign  a  tour  to  the 


Pine  Orchard,  a  place  which,  for  several  years  past, 
has  attracted  the  attention  of  all  classes  of  men,  and 
still  continues  to  draw  to  it  numbers  of  those  who  are 
fond  of  novelty,  and  especially  of  the  sublime  and  ro- 
mantic scenery  in  which  it  abounds.  Regular  stages 
leave  Catskill  for  the  I'ine  Orchard  tvvice  a  day.  The 
fare  is  the  moderate  price  of  one  dollar.  The  whole 
distance  is  12  miles,  computed  as  follows:  From  the 
village  to  Lawrence's  tavern,  7  miles- -from  thence  to 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  2  miles — from  thence  to  Pine 
Orchard,  3  miles.  This  distance  is  passed,  in  going,  in 
about  4  hours — in  returning,  in  about  2  hours.    Tho 


PfN'E  ournAun. 


141 


country  through  which  the  road  passes  has  nothing 
interesting  in  its  appearance  until  it  reaches  the  moun- 
tain, being  generally  uneven  and  barren,  and  diversified 
with  but  ono  or  two  connparatively  small  spots  of  cul- 
tivation, upon  which  the  eye  can  rest  with  satisfaction. 
A  short  timo  is  usually  taken  up  at  Lawrence's,  for  the 
purposr?  of  rofreshm'.Mit,  before  encountering  the  rugged 
ascent  of  the  mountains.  This  part  of  the  road  is  gen- 
erally good,  but  circuitous,  and  often  passes  on  the 
brmk  of  some  deep  ravine,  or  at  the  foot  of  some 
frowning  precipice,  inspiring  at  times  an  unwelcome 
degree  of  terror.  The  rock  upon  which  stands  the  hotel 
forms  a  circular  platform,  is  of  an  uneven  surface,  and 
includes  about  six  •\cres.  It  is  elevated  above  the  Hud- 
son upwards  of  2200  feet.*  The  Hotel  is  140  feet  in 
length,  24  feet  in  width,  and  4  stories  high,  and  has 
piazzas  in  front  the  whole  length,  and  a  wing  extending 
in  the  rear  for  lodging  rooms.  It  is  well  furnished,  and 
possesses  every  convenience  and  accommodation  requi- 
site to  the  comfort  and  good  cheer  of  its  numerous 
guests.  The  prospect  from  Pine  Orchard  embraces  a 
greater  extent  and  more  diversity  of  scenery  than  is  to 


*  Capt.  Partridge,  who  visited  the  Cats!<ill  mountains 
in  1S28,  made  the  foliow'ing  barometrical  observations: 

Altitude  of  the  Mountain  House,  at  the  Pine  Or- 
chard, above  the  surface  of  the  Hudson  river  at  Catskill 
village,  2212  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  the  site  of  Lawrence's  tavern, 
7  miles  from  Catskill,  1882  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  the  turnpike  gate  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  1674  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  Green's  bridge,  947  feet. 


142 


ATHENS. 


be  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  state,  or  perhaps  of 
the  United  States.  The  vast  variety  of  fields,  farms, 
villngf's,  towns  and  cities  between  the  Green  nnountains 
of  Vermont  on  the  north,  tiie  Highlands  on  the  south, 
and  thn  TaL^hkanick  mountains  on  the  east,  tocelher 
with  the  Hudson  river,  studded  with  isUmdH  and  vessels, 
some  of  which  may  he  seen  at  even  the  distance  of  CO 
miles,  are  apparent  in  a  clear  atmuspliore  to  the  naked 
eye  ;  and  when  the  scene  is  oradually  unfolded,  at  the 
opening  of  the  day,  it  assumes  rather  the  appearance  of 
enchantment  than  a  reality.  It  is  not  uncommon,  at 
this  place,  to  witness  storms  of  snow  and  rain  in  their 
seasons,  midway  the  mountain,  while  all  is  clear  and 
sereno  on  its  summit.  About  two  miles  from  the  Hotel 
arc  the  Kaaterskill  Falls,  which  take  their  name 
from  the  stream  on  which  they  arc  situated.  This 
stream  takes  its  rise  from  two  small  lakes,  half  a  mile 
in  the  rear  of  the  Hotel ;  and  after  a  westerly  course  of 
a  mile  and  a  half,  the  waters  fall  perpendicularly  175 
feet,  and  after  pausing  a  moment  on  a  ))rojection  of  the 
rock,  plunge  again  down  a  precipice  of  85  feet  more, 
making  the  whole  descent  of  the  flills  260  feet.  The 
road  to  the  falls  is  extremely  rough  ;  but  this  objection 
will  hardly  deter  the  traveller  from  a  visit  to  a  spot  so 
novel  and  romantic. 

Athens,  five  miles  above  Catskiil,  is  an  incorporated 
village,  and  contains  about  1.300  inliabitants.  Its  situ- 
ation on  a  gentle  slope  of  land  rising  gradually  from 
the  river,  gives  it  a  very  favorable  appearance.  The 
vicinity  of  Athens  to  Hudson,  immediately  opposite, 
seems  to  forbid  that  importance  in  point  of  trade  which 


nt'D'ON — COXSAtKIIt. 


143 


it«  location  nii^'ht  <itIior\vise  warrant.  Athens  furnishc!i 
a  number  of  hnautiful  sites  on  the  bank  of  the  river; 
ponic  of  which  arc  nlrcarly  occnpicd  by  the  clngont 
mansions  of  private  gentlemen. 

The  City  of  TIudbov  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  27  miU^s  south  from  Albany.  The  plain  on  which 
Hudson  is  situated  rises  abruptly  from  the  river,  by 
banks  from  50  to  GO  feet  in  height ;  and  terminates  on 
the. east,  at  the  foot  of  high  lands,  which  overlook  the 
city  at  an  elevation  of  some  hundred  feet,  and  furnish 
a  prospect  of  the  Hudson  river  and  scenery  for  many 
Tnilcs  in  extent.  The  city  contains  about  5500  inhabi- 
tants, and  is  daily  increasing  in  wraith,  population  and 
commerce.  Claverack  creek  on  the  cast,  and  Kinder- 
hook  creek  on  the  north,  aflujrd  every  facility  for  mills 
and  manufactories,  in  which  Hudson  abounds.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Hudson  appear  n  h  uiber  of  country 
seats,  with  the  farm  houses  and  i  i  itivation  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Athena  and  Cat  iv ill,  bounded  by  the  lofty 
Katsberghs,  rising  in  the  back  ground  and  mingling 
their  rugged  summits  with  the  clouds. 

The  Hudson  and  Berkshire  rail  road,  extending 
from  Hudson  to  the  Massachusetts  state  line,  will  be 
completed  the  present  season  (1837.)  It  is  designed 
ultimately  to  connect  with  a  line  through  Massachu- 
setts to  Worcester,  from  whence  there  is  already  a  rail 
road  to  Boston,  noticed  in  the  "  Route  from  Albany  to 
Boston,"  post. 


CoxsACKiE  Landin'g,  whcTc  are  several  houses  and 
stores,  is  eight  miles  north  of  Hudson.    From  thence 
m2 


144 


ALBANY. 


to  Kinderhook  landing  is  2  miles.  Here  are  about  50 
dwellings  and  a  post,  office.  The  village  of  Kinder- 
hook  is  situated  5  miles  cast.  Four  miles  further  north 
is  the  village  of  Ncw^-Baltimore  ;  thence  to  Coeymans 
2  miles — thence  to  Schodack  villapre  2  miles — thence  to 
Castleton  landing  2  miles — thence  to  Albany  8  miles. 


ALBANY 

Is  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New-York,  and  in  point 
of  wealth,  population,  trade  and  resources,  is  the  sec- 
ond city  in  the  state,  and  the  sixth  or  seventh  in  the 
Union.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson 
river,  and  near  the  head  of  tide  water.  It  was  settled 
in  1612;  and  next  to  Jamestown  in  Virginia,  is  the 
oldest  settlement  in  the  U.  S.  In  1614,  a  small  fort 
and  trading  house  were  built  by  the  Dutch  on  an  isl- 
and half  a  mile  below  the  site  of  the  present  city  ;  and 
soon  afterwards  fort  Orange,  where  the  city  now  stands. 
The  place  was  first  called  Aurania ;  then  Beverwyck, 
till  1625;  then  Fort  Orange  till  1647,  and  VVilliamstadt 
till  1664.  For  a  long  time  after  its  foundation,  it  was 
enclosed  with  palisadoes  or  pickets,  as  a  defence  against 
the  Indians,  who  were  then  numerous  and  powerful  in 
its  vicinity.  Its  charter  was  granted  in  the  year  1686, 
and  embraced  an  area  of  7160  acres.  A  great  propor- 
tion of  its  soil  is  sandy  and  unproductive,  and  under  no 
system  of  useful  cultivation. 

Though  the  first  appearance  of  this  city  is  not  pre- 
possessing to  a  stranger,  still  the  taste  which  has  been 
displayed  in  the  construction  of  its  public  and  private 
buildings — the  constant  din  of  commercial  business 
which  assails  the  ear  of  the  traveller—the  termination 


ALBANY. 


14« 


of  the  Erie  canal  and  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  rail 
road  at  this  place,  and  many  other  attendant  circum- 
Btanccs,  render  Albany  an  important  and  interesting 
spot. 

The  town  is  divided  into  five  wards,  and  contains 
many  superb  and  elegant  buildings.  The  principal 
streets  arc  Market,  Pearl,  and  State  streets.  The  two 
former  run  parallel  with  the  river,  and  the  latter  is  a 
spacious  one,  extending  from  the  Capitol  to  the  Hud- 
son, nearly  cast  and  west.  Besides  these,  there  are 
many  other  streets,  less  considerable  in  extent,  but  pop- 
ulous and  crowded  with  shops  and  stores. 

The  Capitol,  which  contains  the  legislative  halls, 
the  supreme  and  chancery  court  rooms  of  the  state,  the 
state  library,  and  other  apartments  for  public  business, 
stands  at  the  head  of  State  street,  on  an  elevation  of 
130  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river.  It  is  a  substan- 
tial stone  edifice,  erected  at  an  expense  of  ^120,000.  It 
is  115  feet  in  length,  90  in  breadth,  and  50  feet  high, 
consisting  of  two  stories,  and  a  basement  of  10  feet. 
The  east  front  is  adorned  with  a  portico  of  the  Ionic 
order,  having  4  magnificent  columns,  33  feet  in  height. 
In  the  senate  and  assembly  chambers  and  in  the  rooms 
used  by  the  governor  and  for  holding  the  court  of  chan- 
cery are  full  length  portraits  of  Washington,  of  the  va- 
rious executives  who  have  administered  the  government 
of  the  state,  of  the  chancellors  who  have  presided  in  the 
court  of  chancery,  and  of  Abraham  Van  Vechten,  Esq. 
an  eminent  counsellor  at  law  residing  in  Albany, 
There  is  also  in  the  senate  chamber  a  good  bust  of 
Doct.  Franklin. 


''^'^''^I^^^€  '^r.: 


.'.viis*n*p?^''"-"'' 


146 


AL3ANT. 


The  Public  Square,  on  the  S.  W.  of  which  stands 
the  Capitol,  arranged  in  the  style  of  a  park,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  costly  iron  railing,  having  several  delight- 
ful walks  and  avenues. 

North  of  the  Capitol  stands  the  Academy,  one  of  the 
most  elegantly  constructed  buildings  in  the  city.  It 
cost  about  $92,000  exclusive  of  the  ioi  on  which  it  is 
erected,  and  some  donations.  It  is  built  of  free  stone, 
3  stories  high,  and  90  feet  in  front.  It  has  5  teach- 
ers and  about  140  students,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
flourishing  institutions  in  the  sta^c. 

The  City  Hall,  fronting  the  foot  of  Washington 
street,  and  near  the  capitol  square,  is  a  costly  edifice  of 
white  marble,  displaying  much  taste  in  its  structure, 
and  is  ornamental  to  the  part  of  the  city  in  which  it 
stands.  The  dom^^  is  gilded,  and  is  a  conspicuous  ob- 
ject at  some  distance  from  the  city. 

The  new  State  Hall,  located  north  of  the  City 
Hall,  is  constructing  of  white  marble,  and,  when  finish- 
ed, will  not  be  surpassed  by  any  edifice  in  the  city.  It 
will  contain  the  offices  of  the  secretary  of  state,  comp- 
troller, treasurer,  surveyor  general,  attorney  general, 
register  in  chancery,  and  clerk  of  the  supreme  court. 

The  Female  Academy,  in  North  Pearl  street,  a 
beautiful  and  classical  edifice,  commanding  a  view  of 
the  eastern  part  of  the  city  and  opposite  shore  of  the 
Hudson,  under  its  popular  principal,  Mr.  Cruttendon, 
receives  an  extensive  patronage. 

The  Baptist  church  on  the  same  side  of  the  street, 
and  but  a  few  doors  from  the  Academy,  is  also  a  very 
elegant  structure.  The  pediments  of  both  buildings 
projecting  at  suitable  distances  from  each  other,  give  a 


se" 
tui 


Vf.^/'i 


ALBANY. 


147 


fine  appearance  to  the  street,  by  relieving  the  monoto- 
ny of  the  long  line  of  dwelling  houses  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, without  materially  obstructing  the  view  of  the 
whole. 

There  are  also  19  other  houses  of  public  worship, 
several  of  which  exhibit  mncli  taste  in  their  architec- 
ture, six  banks,  and  one  of  the  best  museums  in  the 
country. 

The  Merchant's  Exchange,  in  a  state  of  forward- 
ness, is  located  on  the  corner  of  State  and  North  Mark- 
et streets.  When  completed,  it  will  be  highly  orna- 
mental to  that  nr^vt  of  the  city. 

Hotels. — 1 1  ncipal  hotels  in  Albany,  are  the 

Eagle  Tavern,  .,,,uui  Market  street;  American  Hotel, 
State  street ;  Congress  H^all,  Capitol  Square ;  Man- 
sion House, City  Hotel,  and  Temperance  House,  North 
Market  street.  These  are  all  first  rate  estabUshraents, 
elegantly  furnished  and  well  kept. 

On  a  less  expensive  scale,  ore  the  Fort  Orange  Ho- 
tel, Columbian  Hotel,  Exchange  Coffee  House,  and 
Montgomery  Hall,  South  Market  street ;  and  the 
Franklin  House  and  Western  Hotel,  State  street. 

During  the  sessions  of  the  New-York  Legislature, 
Albany  is  crowded  with  strangers,  and  contains  much 
of  the  legal  talent  and  learning  of  the  state.  The  city 
is  eligibly  situat  jd  for  trade,  being  a  great  thorough- 
fare for  the  northern  and  western  sections  of  the  coun- 
try. 

The  Albany  Basin,  where  the  waters  of  the  Erie 
canal  unite  with  the  Hudson,  consists  of  a  part  of  the 
river  included  between  the  shore  and  an  artificial  pier 
erected  80  feet  in  width  and  4300  feet  in  length.    The 


148 


EXCURSIOIf  TO  THE  SPRINGS. 


pier  contains  about  8  acres,  and  is  connected  with  the 
city  by  drp'v  bridges.  It  is  a  grand  and  stupendous 
work,  on  ^/nich  spacious  and  extensive  stores  have 
been  erected,  and  where  an  immense  quantity  of  lum- 
ber and  other  articles  of  trade  are  deposited.  Its  ori- 
ginal cost  was  $130,000,  and  the  different  lots  were 
sold  at  public  auction  at  a  considerable  advance.  The 
basin  covers  a  surface  of  32  acres. 


far 

mil< 

ond 

fror 

roa(| 


EXCUUSION   TO   THE    SPRINGS. 

There  are  two  distinct  routes — one  by  the  way  of 
Schenectady,  the  other  by  the  way  of  Troy.  We  give 
a  sketch  of  each. 

Route  by  the  to  ay  of  Schenectady, 
36i  miles. 
The  intermediate  distances  are  as  follow  : 


MUes. 
From  Albany  to  Bu- 
d's Farm,! 3 

Schenectady, 12 


Milfs. 

Ballston  Lake, 10 

Ballston  Spa, 5 

Saratoga  Sprii.gs, ...     GJ 


The  route  is  by  the  v:.\y  of  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson 
and  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  roads,  the  line 
being  continuous  to  Saratoga  Springs,  and  a  passage  is 
effected  in  about  3^  hours.  The  carriages  of  the  Mo- 
hawk and  Hudson  company  start  several  ti.ies  a  day 
from  the  depot  on  the  north  side  of  State  Street,  a  lit- 
tle below  the  Capitol  Square  in  Albany,  and  the  trains 
on  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  road  are  made  to  cor- 
respond therewith. 

The  Mohawk  and  Hudson  Rail  Road  was  com- 
menced in  the  summer  of  1830,  and  a  single  track  so 


'■■m---'i^-  -"t--^ 


MOHAWK    AND    HUDSON    RAIL    ROAD. 


149 


far  completed  that  passengers  were  conveyed  over  12 
miles  thereof  in  one  year  thereafter.     Since  then  a  sec- 
ond track  has  been  made,  and  a  branch  constructed 
from  State  street  in  Albanv,  which  unites  with  the  main 
road  about  2^  miles  from  the  city.     The  main  line, 
which  commences  on  the  Hudson  river  about  a  mile 
south  of  State  street,  and  on  which  there  is  an  inclined 
plane,  is  used   exclusively  for   freight,  until   uniting 
with  the  branch  ;  from  whence  it  proceeds  in  a  per- 
fectly straight  lino  (with  the  exception  of  a  small  curve, 
which,  with  most  people,  passes  unnoticed,)  for   12 
miles,  crossing  the  heavy  embankment  called  the  BucI 
viaduct,  and  ascending  a  plane  of  about  three  miles,  of 
one  foot  in  225.    Afterwards  ascending  by  two  or  three 
other  planes  of  different  grades,  and  crossing  several 
water-ways  upon  embankments,  it  proceeds  to  the 
Schenectady  summit.   The  ascent  to  this  summit  from 
the  level  of  the  Hudson  is  335  feet.     At  this  point,  to 
which  we  have  in  imagination  conducted  our  readers, 
a  beautilul  view  is  obtained  of  the  Erie  canal,  the  Mo- 
hawk river,  and  the  city  of  Schenectady.  A  double  sta- 
tionary engine  is  placed  here,  which  is  used  in  letting 
carriages  down  a  declivity  of  i  15  feet,  half  a  mile  in  ex- 
tent.   From  thence  the  road  extends  to  the  city,  unit- 
ing with  the  Saratoga  ai.d  with  thcUtica  rail  roads,  the 
latter  of  which  is  noticed  in  the  route  to  Buffalo,  post. 
The  soil  over  which  the  Mohawk  road  passes  is  gene- 
rally sandy,  and  there  are  several  heavy  excavations 
and  embankments.    The  rails,  which  are  wood,  plated 
with  iron,  generally  rest  on  stone  blocks,  which  give 
to  the  road  a  very  firm  and  solid  basis.    Its  entire  cost 
was  about  ^S  1,000,000. 


150 


SCHENECTADY, 


The  Farm  op  Jesse  Buel,  Esq.  is  croBsed  by  the 
rail  .oad,  about  three  miles  from  Albany.  It  consists 
of  80  acres,  has  been  wholly  reclaimed  from  oommors 
since  1818,  and  is  now  under  profitable  cultivation. 
His  kitchen  and  flower  gardens,  abounding  in  the  fin- 
est native  and  foreign  fruits,  ornanienlal  trees,  shrubs 
and  flowers,  will  be  visited  with  interest.  Upon  the 
same  farm  is  the 

Albany  Nursery,  which  is  under  the  management 
of  Messrs.  Buel  &  Wilson.  It  already  covers  12  or  14 
acres,  and  is  extended  annually,  embracing  not  only  tho 
most  choice  American  fruits  and  ornamental  plants,  but 
also  the  finer  varieties  of  France,  Germany,  England, 
&.C.  many  of  which  have  been  received  from  the  Lon- 
don Horticultural  Societv,  of  which  Mr.  D.  is  a  corres- 
ponding  member.  Attached  to  ibis  establishment  is  a 
green  house,  containing  an  extensive  collection  of  beau- 
tiful exotics  and  rare  Asiatic  plants.  There  are  few  es- 
tablishment of  the  kind,  indeed,  in  the  country,  pos- 
sessing more  interest,  or  entitling  their  proprietors  to 
greater  conimendation. 


SCHENECTADY, 

Fifteen  miles  from  Albany,  and  21 J  fro:u  Saratoga 
Springs,  is  situated  on  the  Mohawk,  a  broad  and  beau- 
tiful river,  which  forms  its  northern  boundary.  It  was 
burnt  by  the  Indians  in  1690,  and  suffered  a  considera- 
ble conflagration  in  1819,  since  which  event  the  antique 
appearance  of  the  city  has  been  much  improved  by  the 
introduction  of  modern  archcitccture.  The  principal 
Hotel  is  kept  by  Mr.  Davis,  in  the  south-east  part  of 
the  city,  adjoining  the  Utica  rail  road.   The  main  build- 


SCHENECTADY. 


15t 


ing  contains  an  attic  story,  fronn  wiiich  a  view  may  be 
had  of  the  city  and  its  environs,  of  the  Mohawk  and  of 
the  canal  for  some  distance,  and  of  the  rich  and  varie- 
gated hindscape  which  spreads  on  the  south  and  west 
of  the  city.  The  Hotel  can  accommodate  about  130 
guests. 

Union  College  is  built  on  an  eminence,  which  over- 
looks the  city  and  the  Mokawk  for  a  number  of  miles. 
The  college  consists  at  present  of  two  brick  edifices, 
but  the  plan  includes  a  chapel  and  other  buildings  here- 
after to  be  erected,  in  the  rear,  and  between  those  al« 
ready  constructed.  At  this  institution  about  100  stu- 
dents are  annually  graduated.  The  expense  per  annum 
is  about  $150.  In  numbers  and  respcctabiliiy  Union 
College  may  be  ranked  among  the  most  favored  sem- 
inaries in  our  country. 

The  city  contains  two  banks,  two  printing  offices,  six 
churches,  a  spacious  and  handsome  city  hall,  and  a 
population  of  about  6000  inhabitants. 

The  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  Rail  Road  pass- 
ing through  the  city,  crof*scs  the  Mohawk  river  on  a 
substantial  bridge  between  8  and  900  feet  long,  and  ex- 
tends in  a  northerly  direction  over  a  heavy  embank- 
ment for  three-fourths  of  a  mile  to  a  deep  cut,  where 
the  Utica  .d  diverges  to  the  west,  and  the  Saratoiia 
to  the  norihcast.  This  course  is  pursued  until  it  en- 
ters the  valley  of  the  Eel  pi  ace  creek,  when  it  curves 
and  maintains  a  northerly  course,  passing  .along  the 
elegant  and  verdant  banks  of  the  Ballston  Lake,  and 
enters  the  eastern  part  of  the  village  of  Ballston  Spa, 
on  a  curvature  of  considerable  extent.  From  this  point 
the  road  passes  in  a  northerly  direction  over  the  main 

N 


.■:<t,*4livi.-:ri> 


153 


BALLSTON  I  AEE. 


Street,  on  a  bridge  about  15  feet  high,  and  by  means  of 
a  heavy  embankme...,  reaches  the  high  grounds  north 
of  the  village.  From  thence  a  north-easterly  course  is 
taken  across  the  Kayadcrosscras  creek,  over  a  sub« 
stantial  bridge,  and  com  inues  in  a  straight  line,  with 
the  exception  of  two  alight  curves,  to  Saratoga  Springs. 
The  road  is  about  twenty-one  and  a  half  miles  long, 
and  is  over  a  remarkably  level  country,  not  requiring 
the  use  of  stationary  power,  and  not  having  on  any  part 
an  inclination  of  more  than  16  feet  per  mile.  With  the 
exception  of  about  three  miles  of  stone  blocks,  near 
Saratoga  Springs,  the  road  is  made  of  wooden  materi- 
als, save  the  iron  plates.  Its  cost,  including  fixtures, 
carriages  and  engines,  was  $300,000. 


Ballston  Lake,  or  Long  Lake,  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  is  10  miles  from  Schei.«5ctady.  A  farm  house 
between  the  lake  and  rjad,  owned  by  Mr.  Elisha  Cur- 
tis, was  formerly  the  residence  of  a  Mr.  M'Donald,  the 
guide  of  Sir  "William  Johnson,  on  his  first  visit  to  the 
mineral  springs  at  Saratoga,  in  1 767.  Mr.  M'D.  was  a 
native  of  Ireland,  and  on  his  first  arrival  in  America, 
settled  with  his  brother,  in  1763,  on  this  spot,  where  he 
continued  to  reside  until  his  decease,  in  1823.  Sir 
William  passed  some  days  at  this  house  at  the  time  of 
the  visit  above  mentioned.  The  lake  is  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  5  miles  long  and  1  broad.  The  scenery 
around  atibrds  a  pleasing  landscape  of  cultivation  and 
wood  lands,  no  less  inviting  to  the  sportsman  than  the 
Boft  bosom  of  the  lake  and  its  finny  inhabitants  to  the 
amateurs  of  the  rod. 


BILLSTON  SPA. 


133 


BALLSTON   SPA, 

Is  5  miles  farther.  The  village  lies  in  the  town  of 
Milton,  in  the  county  of  Saratoga ;  and  is  situated  in  a 
low  valley,  through  the  centre  of  which  flows  a  branch 
of  the  Kayaderosseras,  with  whose  waters  it  mingles 
at  the  east  end  of  the  village.  The  natural  boundaries 
of  Ballston  Spa  are  well  defined  by  steep  and  lofiy  hills 
of  sand  on  the  north  and  west,  ai:d  by  a  ridge  of  land 
which  graduall  /  slopes  inwan',  and  encircles  the  vil- 
lage on  the  south  and  east.  The  broad  and  an.ple 
Kayaderosseras  flows  on  the  northeast  boundary  of  the 
village,  and  furnishes  a  favorite  resort  for  the  sports- 
man on  the  bosom  of  its  waters,  or  for  the  loiterer  along 
its  verdant  banks.  The  village  is  incorporated,  and 
under  the  direction  of  a  board  of  trustees,  who  are  cho- 
sen annually.  It  contains  150  houses,  and  about  1200 
inhabitants.  Besides  the  court  house  for  the  county, 
located  here,  there  are  3  churches,  2  printing  offices  and 
a  book-store,  with  which  a  reading  room  is  connected, 
for  the  accommodation  of  visitants. 

Ballston  Spa  principally  derives  its  celebrity  from 
the  mineial  springs  which  flow  heio  and  at  Saratoga 
in  equal  abundance.  The  spring  first  discovered  in  the 
vicinity  stands  on  the  flat  in  the  west  port  of  the  village. 
It  formerly  flowed  outof  a  common  barrel,  sunk  around 
it,  without  any  other  protection  from  the  invasion  of 
cattle,  who  often  slacked  their  thirst  in  its  fountain. 
Afterwards  the  liberality  of  the  citizens  was  displayed 
in  a  marble  curb  and  flagging,  and  a  handsome  iron 
railing.  The  curb  and  flagging  were  finally  removed, 
leaving  tho  railing,  which  still  serves  the  purposes  cf 


.,---:,v:  i^.  L£.-Mtti!^ik'£&ki.LA 


154 


BALLSTON  SPA. 


ornament  and  protection.  The  spring  flows  now,  prob- 
ably, from  the  place  where  it  orij^inally  issued,  some 
ieet  below  the  surrounding  surface,  which  has  be*en 
elevated  by  additions  of  earth,  for  the  purpose  of  im- 
proving the  road  in  which  it  stands. 

Near  this  spring,  in  boring  eight  or  nine  years  since, 
a  mineral  fountain  called  the  New  Washington 
Sprino,  was  discovered  ata  considerable  depth  beneath 
the  surface.  Its  qualities  are  somewhat  similar  to  those 
of  the  spring  last  mentioned. 

The  Sans  Souci  Spuing  is  situated  in  the  rear  of  the 
Sans  Souci,  and  is  considered  the  most  prominent  foun- 
tain in  the  village.  According  to  an  analysis  of  Doct. 
Steel,  one  gallon  of  the  water  contained  the  following 
ingredients:  chloride  of  sodium,  I43§grs. ;  bicarbonate 
of  soda  12i  grs.  ;  bicarbonate  of  magnesia,  39  grs. ; 
carbonate  of  lime,  nearly  6  grs. ;  hydriodate  of  soda,  IJ 
grs. ;  silex,  1  gr.  Near  this  fountain  a  large  and  com- 
modious bathing  house  has  been  erected  ;  to  which, 
not  only  the  waters  of  this,  but  of  a  number  of  other 
adjacent  springs,  are  tributary,  for  the  purpose  of  bath- 
ing. Between  the  springs  already  mentioned,  there  was 
discovered  in  the  summer  of  1817,  a  mineral  spring, 
called  the  Washington  Fountain.  This  latter  spring 
rose  on  the  margin  of  the  creek  in  front  of  the  factory 


building ; 


it  flowed  through  a  curb  28  feet  in  length 


sunk  to  the  depth  of  23  feet,  and  was  liberated  at  the 
top  in  the  form  of  a  beautiful  jcf  d'eau ;  but  the  spring 
disappeared  in  1821.  Numerous  attempts  have  since 
been  made  to  recover  it,  but  they  have  proved  fruitless. 
Low's  Spring  is  near  the  Sans  Souci,  and  is  very 
similar  in  its  qualities  and  properties. 


V.T" 


ballston  spa. 


15» 


The  Park  Spring  is  in  the  rear  of  the  Village  Hotel, 
and  was  obtained  by  borin;g^  to  a  depth  of  270  feet.  A 
copious  stream  flows  therefrom,  tastefully  displayed  in 
a  small  basin,  secured  at  the  top  of  the  tube  which  con- 
ducts the  water  to  the  surface.  The  water,  however, 
affords  much  less  of  the  saline  substances  than  either 
of  the  other  springs. 

The  principal  ingredients  of  these  waters  consist  of 
muriate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  lime, 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  carbonate  of  iron  ;  all  of 
which,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  entrr  into  the  com- 
position of  the  waters,  both  here  and  at  Saratoga. 

The  principal  boarding  houses  are  the  Sans  Souci  and 
the  Village  Hotel. 

The  Sans  Souci,  with  its  yards  and  out-houses,  occu- 
pies an  area  of  some  acres  in  the  east  part  of  the  village. 
The  plan  of  the  building,  with  the  extensive  improve- 
ments around  it,  do  much  credit  to  the  taste  and  Iibe« 
rality  of  its  proprietors.  The  establishment  is  kept  by 
Mr.  Andrew  Watrous,  under  whose  management  the 
most  entire  satisfaction  is  given  to  its  annual  visitants. 
The  edifice  is  constructed  of  wood,  three  stories  high, 
160  feet  in  length,  with  two  wings  extending  back  153 
feet,  and  is  calculated  for  the  accommodation  of  130 
boarders.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  yard,  orna- 
mented with  a  variety  of  trees  and  shrubbery,  which, 
with  its  extensive  piazzas  and  spacious  halls,  render  it  a 
delightful  retreatduringthe  oppressive  heat  of  summer. 

The  Village  Hotel  is  in  a  convenient  situation,  a 
few  rods  west  of  the  Sans  Souci.    It  is  kept  by  the  pro- 
prietor, Mr.  Clark,  and  is  in  every  respect  an  agreeable 
and  pleasant  boarding  place. 
n2 


156 


PROM  Al  BANT,  VIA  TROT,  TO  SARATOGA. 


I 


Mails  arrive  at  and  depart  from  Ballston  Spa,  every 
day  in  the  week.  Besides  a  post  office  at  the  village, 
there  is  one  in  the  town  of  Ballston,  about  three  miles 
d'w  .nt,  to  which  letters  are  frequently  misscnt,  owing 
to  the  neglect  of  correspondents  in  making  the  proper 
direction. 

The  reading  room  and  library  may  be  resorted  to  at 
all  times,  and  for  a  moderate  compensation.  Papers 
are  there  furnished  from  all  parts  of  the  Union. 

Route  from  Albany  by  the  way  of  Troy  to  Saratoga 
Springs — 3CJ  miles. 

The  intermediate  distances  are  as  follow : 

MUea. 
Mechanicsville, 8 


Ballston  Spa, 

Saratoga  Springs,, 


12 


By  stage  or  steam  boat. 
Miles. 
From  Albany  to  Troy,..  6 

By  rail  road. 
Waterford, 4 

A  stage  or  steam  boat  can  be  taken  hourly]at  Albany 
for  Troy.  By  the  former  mode  of  conveyance,  the  first 
object  which  usually  attracts  the  attention  of  the  tourist 
is  the  mansion  of  Gen.  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer,  the 
patroon  of  the  manor  of  Rcnsselaerwick,*  which  stands 
at  the  northern  extremity  of  Albany,  and  which  is  one 
of  the  most  elegant  situations  in  the  United  States. 
The  munificence  and  Uberality  of  its  opulent  and  dis- 
tinguished proprietor  are  proverbial.  There  are  few 
charitable  or  scientific  institutions  in  the  state  of  which 
he  is  not  a  benefactor ;  and  he  has  probably  contributed 


*  This  manor  comprises 'a  great  portion  of  the  coun- 
ties of  Albany  and  Rensselaer — the  city  and  several 
patents  excepted. 


>T.  S.  ARSENAL. 


IIV 


more  than  any  other  citizen  towarda  the  fostering  of 
agricultural  and  literary  improvements. 

The  McAdamized  Road  between  Albany  and  Wa- 
tervliet,  opposite  Troy,  commences  at  this  place.  It 
runs  parallel  with  the  Erie  canal,  near  its  western  bank, 
is  between  5  and  6  miles  long,  of  a  width  sufficient  for 
three  carriages  to  run  abreast,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
elegant  roads  on  the  continent.  The  vales  and  hills 
through  which  it  passes  have  been  sufficiently  elevated 
or  depressed  to  afford  either  a  level  or  a  very  moderate 
inclination  ;  so  that  the  speed  of  a  carriage  over  the 
whole  is  uninterrupted.  It  is  the  property  of  an  incor- 
porated company,  who  have  expended  betYV  -en  $90,000 
and  $100,000  in  its  construction. 

Five  miles  from  Albany  is  the  U.  S.  Arsenal,  con- 
sisting of  handsome  brick  and  stone  buildings,  beau- 
tifully located  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Hudson. 
There  are  here  a  large  quantity  of  arms  and  munitions 
of  war,  with  workshops  for  repairing  them,  manufac- 
turing locks,  &c.  The  muskets,  bayonets,  swords  and 
pistols  are  arranged  with  great  taste  and  kept  in  fine 
order.  Among  the  cannon  in  the  yard  are  four  12 
pounders,  one  24,  and  one  howitzer,  taken  at  Sarato- 
ga ;  four  12's  and  one  howitzer,  taken  at  Yorktown ; 
two  long  antique  pieces  and  one  eight  inch  mortar, 
taken  at  Stoney  Point ;  two  old  French  4  pounders 
and  14  guns,  sent  by  Louis  XVI.  to  the  coniinental 
congress  in  the  revolution — all  of  brass,  and  most  of 
them  highly  ornamented,  with  each  an  individual  name 
and  the  inscription  "ultima  ratio  regium."  There  are 
also  three  or  four  howitzers  cast  in  New- York  and 
Philadelphia  in  the  revolution,  some  of  the  oldest  spe- 


■fr 


159 


WATERVLIET — mOT. 


cimens  of  this  manufacture  in  the  country,  and  bearing 
the  initials  U.  C.  for  United  Colonies. 

Haifa  mile  further  is  the  village  of  Watervliet,  or 
rather  from  the  Arsenal  to  and  including  West  Troy  or 
Port  Schuyler,  is  a  continuous  village,  which  has  rap- 
idly increased  within  a  short  period.  It  already  con- 
tains a  bank  and  several  manufacturing  establishments, 
and  bids  fair  to  become  an  important  town.  The  river 
is  here  crossed  either  by  a  ferry  boat,  or  on  two  very 
permanent  and  beautiful  bridges,  one  of  which  is  used 
by  the  Saratoga  and  Rensselaer  rail  road,  to 


1 


TROY, 

The  city  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  range  of  hills 
rising  abruptly  from  the  alluvial  plane  on  which  the 
city  is  situated,  extending  to  the  Hudson  river.  In 
point  oi  location  and  beautiful  natural  scenery,  Troy  is 
exceeded  by  few,  if  any,  of  the  towns  and  villages  on. 
the  Hudson.  The  streets,  running  north  and  south, 
converge  together  at  the  north  end  of  the  city,  and  are 
crossed  at  right  angles  by  those  running  east  and  west. 
The  building!)  are  principally  built  of  brick,  and  ar« 
shaded  by  rows  of  trees  on  each  side  of  the  streets, 
wlitch  are  preserved  remarkably  clean  by  additions  of 
elate  and  gravel  instead  of  pavements.  The  city  con- 
tains four  banks,  twelve  churches,  a  court  house,  jail 
and  market.  The  Episcopal  Church  is  a  superb  speci- 
men of  Gothic  architecture,  probably  not  exceeded  in 
the  United  States.  Tt  has  a  venerable  and  imposing 
appearance,  and  need?  nothing  but  a  quantity  of  moss 
and  ivy  to  make  it  the  picture  of  one  of  those  ancient 
abbeys  so  oflen  to  be  met  with  in  the  writings  of  Sir 


In 


•^ifr;^piif^^.7T?7Tr^'^'''"r^;  '^ 


TROT. 


159 


Walter  Scott.  The  New  Presbyterian  Church  also 
displays  great  taste  and  liberality  in  its  construction  and 
is  highly  ornamental  to  that  part  of  the  city  in  which 
it  stands. 

The  Court  HousK,  bnilt  of  Sing  Sing  marble,  is  a 
splendid  edifice  after  the  Grecian  model,  perfectly  chasto 
and  classic  in  all  its  parts. 

The  Female  Seminary,  incorporated  by  an  act  of  the 
legislature,  is  a  large  three  story  brick  building  erect- 
ed by  the  city  corporation.  The  institution  is  under 
the  government  of  a  female  principal,  (Mrs.  Willard,) 
assisted  by  two  vice  principals  and  twenty-two  teach- 
ers, whose  exertions  have  given  it  a  deserved  celebrity 
over  similar  institutions  in  the  state.  The  number  of 
pupils  generally  varies  from  250  to  280  ;  and  of  those 
who  arc  thus  educated,  not  less  than  thirty  teachers  are 
annually  furnished  for  various  parts  of  the  union. 

PUBLIC    HOUSES. 

The  Troy  House,  near  the  termination  of  the  rail  road 
in  River  street,  is  a  spacious  and  elegant  establishment, 
with  a  court  yard  in  the  centre,  and  kept  in  a  style  cor- 
responding with  that  of  the  most  favored  estabUsh* 
ments  in  the  union. 

The  Mansion  House,  a  little  farther  north,  is  on  a 
scale  equally  chaste  and  spacious,  in  front  of  which  is 
a  handsome  square  and  a  beautiful  marble  fountain  or 
jet  Weau,  which  diffuses  a  delightful  ooolness  through 
the  atmosphere,  and  attracts  the  observation  of  every 
stranger. 

The  Washington  Hall,  National  Hotel  and 
American  Hotel  also  very  neat  establishments,  and 
well  patronized. 


-J>- 


160 


TROT. 


The  city  is  abundantly  supplied  with  excellent  water 
from  the  neighboring  hills,  on  the  Philadelphia  plan, 
except,  that  in  that  city  it  is  raised  by  artificial  means, 
and  in  this  by  its  natural  head,  being-  75  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  city.  On  the  corner  of  each  street  is  a  hy- 
drant, and  a  hose  placed  on  this  sends  the  water  up 
higher  and  with  much  greater  force  tharr  a  fire  engine. 
From  this  source  is  obtained  the  supply  for  several  ar- 
tificial fountains  on  the  public  squares  and  in  several 
private  gardens. 

Troy  is  proverbial  for  its  enterprise.  This,  with  its 
local  advantages,  have  given  it  a  growth  and  prosperi- 
ty equalled  by  few  and  excelled  by  none  of  the  cities  at 
the  north.  Its  population  in  1830  was  11,G05  ;  in  1835, 
16,959 ;  and  at  the  present  period  (1837)  cannot  be  less 
than  18,500. 

North  east  of  the  plain  upon  which  Troy  is  L  ];■),  and 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river.  Mount  Ida  ris- 
es abruptly  to  the  height  of  three  or  four  hundred  feet ; 
from  whose  summit  there  is  a  very  extensive  prospect 
of  the  Hudson  river  and  the  adjacent  country,  embrac- 
ing Waterford,  Lansingburgh,  the  locks  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Erie  andChamplain  canals,  nearly  the  whole 
of  Troy,  and  a  part  of  Albany. 

About  a  mile  ab  ve  the  city,  a  dam  has  been  thrown 
across  the  river,  and  a  lock  constructed,  afl'brding  a 
sloop  navigation  to  the  village  of  Waterford. 

One  mile  and  a  half  from  Troy  is  the  Rensselaer 
school,  which  was  established  by  and  is  under  the  pat- 
ronage of  Gen.  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer.  It  is  a  valts- 
able  and  flourishing  institution. 


■  .«' 


RENSSELAER  AND  SARATOGA  RAIL  ROAD. 


161 


The  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Rail  Road  wm 
commenced  in  1834,  and  completed  in  1836.  It  commen- 
ces in  River  street,  near  the  Troy  House,  and  passes 
up  that  street  to  the  northern  piirt  of  the  city,  where  it 
crosses  the  main  channel  of  the  Hudson  river  on  a  su- 
perb covered  bridge,  1512  feet  long,  to  Green  Island. 
From  thence  it  proceeds  in  a  northerly  direction  to  Van 
Schaick's  Island,  which  is  connected  with  Green  Isl- 
and by  a  bridge  482  feet  long  over  one  of  the  sprouts  of 
the  Mohawk  river.  Another  bridge  over  another  sprout 
is  then  passed  in  reaching  Hawver  Island  ;  and  from 
thence  to  the  village  of  Waterford  a  third  bridge  is 
crossed  in  passing  over  the  third  or  minor  sprout.     At 
Waterford  the  road  passes  through  one  of  the  principal 
streets,  and  from  thence  continues  a  northerly  course 
through  the  rich  valley  of  the  Hudson,  between  the  riv- 
er and  Champlain  canal,  for  a  distance  of  8  miles,  to 
Mechanicsvillc  ;  when  the  road,  after  crossing  the  ca- 
nal, curves  to  the  north-west,  and  pursuing  the  valley 
of"  the  creek,"  so  called,  passes  the  Round  lake,  about 
4  miles  from  Mechanicsville.     The  Mourning  creek  is 
reached  in  going  6  miles  farther;  from  whence  the  road 
runs  nearly  parallel  with  and  in  sight  of  the  Saratoga 
and  Schenectady  rail  road  for  a  distance  of  two  miles, 
to  the  vi''     e  of  Ballston  Spa ;  where  the  two  roads 
unite,  and  the  carriages  of  both  roads,  by  an  arrange- 
ment between  the  two  companies,  are  tal'en  in  the 
same  train  to  Saratoga  Springs. 

From  Green  Island,  a  bridge  extends  across  the  west 
channel  of  the  Hudson  to  West  Troy,  as  noticed  at 
page  158. 


■  ^l^'-  .■\'Tl-m.e.Jy-i- 


162 


LANSING  EURGH — WATEr.FORD. 


Van  Schaick's  Island  is  formed  by  the  sprouts  of 
the  Mohawk  river  joining  with  the  Hudson  river,  3 
miles  north  of  Troy.  This  spot  is  noted  for  being  the 
head  quarters  of  the  American  army  in  1777  ;  from 
whence  they  marched,  in  September  of  the  same  year, 
to  the  oecisive  victory  over  Burgoyne,  at  Bi^mus' 
Heights. 


Lansixgburgii,  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Hudson, 
directly  opposite  Van  Schaick's  Island,  is  principally 
built  on  a  single  street,  running  parallel  with  the  river. 
A  high  hill  rises  abruptly  behind  the  village,  on  ".vhich 
is  seen  the  celebrated  diamond  rock,  which  &t  limes 
emits  a  brilliant  lustre  from  the  reflected  rays  of  the 
sun.  The  appearance  of  Lansingburgh  by  no  means 
indicates  a  high  state  of  prosperity,  though  it  contains 
several  very  handsome  private  residences.  The  village 
has  a  bank,  three  places  of  public  worship,  and  an 
academy,    its  population  is  about  3000. 

Waterford  is  one  mile  farther.  This  village  is  sit- 
uated at  the  junction  of  the  Mohawk  with  the  Hudson, 
and  derives  cor.siderable  importance  from  the  naviga- 
tion of  small  vesrsels,  which,  by  means  of  the  lock  and 
dam  below,  at  most  seasons  of  the  year  arrive  and  de- 
part to  and  from  its  ducUs.  The  village  contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  about  16C0  inh-^bitants  It  enjoys  many  ad- 
vantages for  trade,  and  its  importance  is  much  increas- 
ed by  the  northern  canal,  which  here  comaiunicatcfi  with 
the  Hudson  river. 

A  very  permanent  bridge  crosses  the  Hudson  at  this 
place,  connecting  with  a  road  leading"  to  Lunsiiigburgh. 


COHOES  FALLS — MECHANICSVILLE. 


163 


At  Waterford,  if  leisure  will  permit,  the  tourist  will 
find  it  interesting  to  stop  a  day,  for  the  purpose  of  visit- 
ing the  GoiioEs  Falls,  on  the  Mohawk  river,  about  a 
mile  from  the  village.  The  perpendicular  fall  is  about 
40,  and  including  the  descent  above,  about  70  feet.  The 
lofty  barrier  of  rocks  which  confine  the  course  of  the 
Mohawk — the  distant  roar  of  the  cataract — the  dashing 
of  the  waters  as  they  descend  in  rapids  beneath  you — 
and  the  striking  contrast  of  the  torrent  with  the  solitude 
of  the  scenery  above,  contribute  to  render  the  whole  an 
unusual  scene  of  sublimity  and  grandeur.  It  was  in 
taking  a  view  of  these  falls,  several  years  since,  that 
the  poet  Moore  composed  one  of  his  best  fugitive  pie- 
ces. Indeed,  the  scenery  and  every  thing  connected 
with  this  interesting  spot,  are  calculated  to  afford  am- 
ple subjects  for  the  poet  and  painter. 

Between  this  place  ^and  Schenectady  (noticed  in  a 
subsequent  page)  the  canal  is  carried  twice  across  the 
Mohawk.   The  lower  aqueduct,  as  it  is  called,  two  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  falls,  is  1 188  feet  long,  and  rests 
on  26  stone  piers  and  abutments — the  other  aqueduct, 
12  miles  further,  is  750  feet  long,  and  rests  on  16  piers. 
The  Junction  of  the  Erie  and  Northern  canals,  about 
a  mile  from  the  falls,  should  also  be  visited  in  the  ex- 
cursion.   Here,  within  the  space  of  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  are  17  locks  ;  and  the  number  of  boats  constant- 
ly passing  through,  present  a  spectacle  of  u^ livity  and 
business  of  a  highly  novel  character.    The  locks  are  of 
the  best  workmanship,  and  are  jusly  ranked  among  the 
most  important  works  on  the  canal. 

Mechanicsville,  8  miles  from  Waterford,  (pursu- 
ing the  route  of  the  rail  road,)  is  a  small  manufacturing 


164 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


village  on  tho  ')ank  of  the  Hudson.  The  hydraulic 
power,  however,  here  deriwad,  is  from  "  the  creek,"  the 
cut-let  of  the  Hound  lake,  meniioRed  at  page  161. 

Ballston  Spa,  12  miles  farther,  h&B  been  r  Ireadj 
noticed  at  p.  1 53. 


SARATOGA  SPEINGS 

h  situated  six  and  ?  half  miles  north-castorly  from 
BailstoJi  Sp:i«  The  village  is  located  on  an  elevated 
spot  of  groun  1,  iurr  ;:t?ded  by  a  productive  level  coun- 
try, mi(f  enjovi?,  >f  no-,  the  advantage  of  prospect,  at 
least  a  saiubrioiis  ah'  and  climate,  contributing  much  to 
Ihn  heabh  aad  benefit  of  its  numerous  visitants.  The 
uprJngs,  so  justly  celebrated  for  their  medicinal  virtues, 
are  situated  on  the  margin  of  a  vale,  bordering  the  vil- 
lage on  the  east,  and  are  the  continuation  of  a  chain  of 
isprings  discovering  themselves  about  12  miles  to  the 
Boulh,  in  the  town  of  Ballstcn,  and  extending  easterly 
ii?  the  form  of  a  crescent,  to  the  Cluaker  village.  In  the 
inuiiediate  vicinity  aro  10  or  12  springs,  the  principal  of 
which  are  the  Congress,  Putnam's  Congress,  the  Ham- 
ilton, the  High  Rock,  the  Columbian,  the  Flat  Rock, 
the  Washington  and  the  Walton.  About  a  mile  east 
are  found  a  cluster  of  mineral  springs  which  go  by  the 
name  of  the  Ten  Sprir-gs. 

THE    CONGRESS   GPRING 

Is  situated  at  the  south  end  of  the  village,  anc  is 
owned  by  Doct.  John  Clarke  ,  to  whose  liberalitv  .; 
public  are  much  indebted  for  the  improvements  i'  ... 
have  been  made  in  V      grounds  adjoining  the  our  \, in, 


SARATOGA   SPRINOS. 

I6i 

•a            t 

\ 

1 

■^ 

*ar  the  purity  in  which  its  waters  are  preserved,  and  for 
»n.  elegant  colonnade  erected  over  the  spring,  affording 
a  convenient  promenade  to  visitants. 

The  spring  was  first  discovered  in  the  summer  of 
1792,  issuing  from  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  a  few  feet  from 
its  present  location.  Here  it  flowed  for  a  number  of 
y*.  irs,  until  an  attempt  to  improve  the  surface  around  it 
produced  an  accidental  obstruction  of  its  waters,  which 
afterwards  made  their  appearance  at  the  place  where 
they  now  flow.  It  is  enclosed  by  a  tube  sunk  into  th« 
earth  to  the  distance  of  12  or  14  feet,  which  secures  it 
from  the  water  of  a  stream,  adjoining  which  it  is  sit- 
uated. 

From  an  analysis  made  by  Doct.  Steel,  it  appears 
that  a  gallon  of  the  water  contains  the  following  sub- 
stances :  chloride  of  sodium,  385  grs. ;  hydriodate  of 
Boda,  3i  grs. ;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  nearly  9  grs. ;  bi- 
carbonate of  magnesia,  nearly  96  grs. ;  carbonate  of 
lime,  a  little  more  than  98  grs. ;  carbonate  of  iron,  up- 
wards of  5  grs. ;  silex,  1 J  grs. ;  carbonic  acid  gas,  311 
cubic  inches  ;  atmospheric  air,  7  do. 

To  this  spring  perhaps  more  than  any  other  spot  on 
the  globe,  are  aeen  repairing,  in  the  summer  mornings 
before  breakfast,  persons  of  almost  every  grade  and 
condition,  from  the  most  exalted  to  the  most  abject : 
.he  beautiful  and  the  deformed — the  rich  and  the  poor— 
the  devotee  of  pleasure  and  the  invalid — all  congre- 
gate here,  for  pur\  )BC!i  n^  varons  as  are  their  situa- 
tions in  life.  T  ;  one  fond  of  <vitnesf?ing  the  great  di- 
versity m  th  ■  uuman  character,  this  place  r fiords  an 
ample  field  ior  observation.  So  well,  indeea,  has  it  been 
improved  by  the  little  urchins  who  dip  water  at  the 


■*-, 


m 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


fountain,  that  an  imposing  exterior  is  sure  to  procure 
for  its  possessor  their  services,  whilo  individuals  less 
richly  attired,  or  whose  physiognomy  indicates  a  less 
liberal  disposition,  are  often  compelled  to  wait  till  it  is 
more  convenient  to  attend  to  their  wants. 

Most  persons  soon  become  fond  of  the  water ;  but 
the  effect  on  those  who  taste  it  for  the  first  time  is  fre- 
quently unpleasant.  To  such  the  other  fountains  are 
generally  more  palatable,  having  a  less  saline  taste 
than  the  Congress. 

PuTNAM^s  Congress  (deriving  its  name  from  the  dis- 
coverer and  owner)  is  a  few  rods  noith  of  the  Hamilton 
Spring.  A  mineral  fountain  flowed  from  the  same  lo- 
cality for  several  years,  without  ury  particular  notice, 
and  the  present  spring  has  been  obtained  by  sinking  a 
tube  to  a  considerable  depth.  It  is  a  valuable  fountain, 
and  piobably  is  second  only  to  the  old  Congress  in  its 
medical  qualities. 

The  High  Rock  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the 
valley,  skirting  the  east  side  of  the  village,  about  half  a 
mile  north  of  the  Congress.  The  rock  enclosing  this 
spring  is  in  the  shape  of  a  cone,  8  feet  in  diameter  at  its 
base,  and  five  feet  in  height.  It  soems  to  have  been 
formed  by  a  concretion  of  particles  thrown  up  by  the 
water,  which  formerly  flowed  over  its  summit  through 
an  apperture  of  about  12  inches  diameter,  regularly  di- 
verging from  the  top  of  the  cone  to  its  base.  This  spring 
was  visited  in  the  year  1767  by  Sir  'Wiliiam  Johnson, 
but  was  known  long  before  by  the  Indians,  who  were 
first  led  to  it  either  by  accident  or  by  the  frequent 
haunts  of  beasts,  attracted  thither  by  the  saline  proper- 
ties of  the  water.  A  builr"  ng  was  erected  near  the  spot 


l"C 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


167 


previous  to  the  revolutionary  war  ;  aflerwarda  aban- 
doned, and  aguin  resumed  ;  since  which  the  usicfulness 
of  the  water  has,  from  time  to  lime,  occasioned  frequent 
settlements  within  its  vicinity. 

The  water  now  rises  within  2  feet  of  the  summit,  and 
a  common  notion  prevails  that  it  has  found  a  passa  je 
through  a  fissure  of  the  rock,  occasioned  by  the  fall  of 
a  tree  ;  since  which  event  it  has  ceased  to  flow  over  its 
brink.  This  opinion,  however,  may  be  doubted.  It  is 
probable  that  the  decay  of  the  rock,  which  commenced 
its  formation  on  the  natural  surface  of  the  earth,  may 
have  yielded  to  the  constant  motion  of  the  water,  and 
at  length  opened  a  passage  between  its  decayed  base 
and  the  loose  earth  on  which  it  was  formed.  This  idea 
is  strengthened  from  the  external  appearance  of  tho 
lock  at  its  eastern  base,  which  has  already  been  pen* 
etrated  by  the  implements  of  curiosity  a  nur  .ber  of 
inches. 

Between  the  Red  spring  in  the  upper  village,  and  the 
Washington  in  the  south  part  of  the  lower  village,  are 
situated  most  of  the  other  mineral  springs  in  wliich  this 
place  abounds.  At  four  of  the  principal  fountains,  the 
Putnam's  Congress,  Hamilton,  Monroe  and  Washing- 
ton, large  and  convenient  batliing  houses  have  been 
erected,  which  are  constantly  resorted  to  for  pleasure 
as  well  as  health,  during  the  warm  season. 

The  mineral  waters  both  at  B&llston  and  Saratoga 
are  supposed  to  be  the  product  of  the  same  great  laba- 
ratory,  and  they  aii  possess  nearly  t,b^  same  properties, 
varying  only  as  to  the  quantity  of  the  different  articles 
held  in  solution.  '^\v.[  are  denominated  acidulous  sa- 
line and  acidulous  r  ^al^rloate.  Of  the  former  are  the 
o2 


'm 


168 


SAUATOCA    SPRrNGS. 


Congress,  Putnam's  Cf-nTCP^fl.  the  Hamilton,  High 
Rock  and  Walton  ai  i-^m'x' '  4a ;  and  oi*the  latter  arc 
the  Columbian,  Fiai.  Rick  and  Washington,  at  Sarato- 
ga, and  the  Old  Sprmg  and  Sans  Souci,  atBallston.  Tho 
waters  contain  muriate  of  soda,  hydriodate  of  soda,  car- 
bonate of  soda,  carbonate  of  lime,  carb'^n»»*o  of  magne^ 
sia,  oxide  of  iron,  and  some  of  them  a  minute  quanti- 
ty of  silica  and  alumina.  Large  quantities  of  carbonic 
acid  gti'  are  also  contained  in  the  waters,  giving  to 
them  a  sparkling  and  lively  appearance.  The  Con- 
gress, in  particular,  the  moment  it  is  dipped,,  contains 
nearly  one  half  more  than  its  bulk  of  gas—ji  quantity 
unprecedented  in  any  natural  waters  elsewhere  discov- 
ered. 

Doct  Steel,  in  his  geological  report  of  the  county  of 
Saratoga,  published  a  few  years  since,  remarks,  that 
*'  the  temperature  of  the  water  in  all  these  wells  is 
about  the  same,  ranging  from  48  to  52  degrees  on  Far- 
cnhtWs  scale ;  and  they  suffer  no  sensible  alteration 
from  any  variation  in  the  temperature  of  the  atmos- 
phere ;  neither  do  the  vatiations  of  the  seasons  appear 
to  have  much  effect  on  the  quantity  of  water  produced. 

"  The  waters  are  remarkably  limpid,  and  when  first 
dipped  sparkle  with  all  the  life  of  good  champaign. 
The  saline  waters  bear  bottling  verv  well,  particularly 
the  Congress,  immense  quantities  of  which  are  put  up 
in  this  way,  and  transported  to  v&'^ous  parts  of  the 
world;  not,  however,  without  ■  onsiderable  loss  of  its 
gaseous  property,  which  rendc  j  its  aste  much  more 
insipid  than  when  drank  at  the  well.  The  chalybeate 
.vater  is  likewise  put  up  in  bottles  for  transportation, 
but  a  very  trifling  loss  of  its  gas  produces  an  immediate 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


169 


precipitation  of  its  iron ;  and  hence  this  water,  when  it 
has  been  bottled  for  some  time,  frequently  becomes 
turbid,  and  finally  loses  every  trace  of  iron  ;  this  sub- 
stance fixing  itself  to  the  walls  of  the  bottle. 

"The  most  prominent  and  perceptible  efTects  of 
these  waters,  when  taken  into  the  stomach,  are  cathar- 
liCy  diuretic  and  tonic.  They  are  much  used  in  a  great 
variety  of  complaints ;  but  the  diseases  in  which  they 
are  most  efRcacious  are  jaundice  and  billious  affections 
generally,  dyspepsia,  habitual  costiveness,  hypochon- 
drical  complaints,  depraved  appetite,  calculous  and  en- 
phritic  complaints,  phagedenic  or  ill-conditioned  ulcers, 
cutaneous  eruptions,  chronic  rheumatism,  some  species 
or  states  of  gout,  some  species  of  dropsy,  scrofula,  par- 
alysis, scorbutic  affections  and  old  scorbutic  ulcers, 
ameno-'rhea,  dysmenorrhea  and  clorosis.  In  phthisis, 
and  ii..  3ed  all  other  pulmonary  affections  arising  from 
primary  diseases  of  the  lungs,  the  waters  are  manifest- 
ly injuriuud  and  evidently  tend  to  increase  the  violence 
of  the  disease. 

"  Much  interest  has  been  excited  on  tno  subject  of 
the  source  of  these  singular  waters ;  but  no  researches 
have  as  yet  unfolded  the  mystery.  The  large  propor- 
tion of  common  salt  found  among  their  constituent 
properties  may  be  accounted  for  without  much  difficul- 
ty— all  the  salt  springs  of  Europe,  as  well  as  tliose  of 
America,  being  found  in  geological  situations  exactly 
corresponding  to  these ;  but  the  production  of  the  un- 
exampled quantity  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  the  medium 
through  which  the  other  articles  are  held  in  solution,  is 
yet,  and  probably  will  remain  a  subject  of  mere  specu- 
lation.   The  low  and  regular  temperature  of  the  water 


m 


:V" 


m 

m 


U 


170 


SARATOGA    SPRINOS. 


seems  to  forbid  the  idea  that  it  is  the  cfTect  of  subterra- 
nean heat,  as  many  have  supposed,  and  the  total  ab- 
sence of  any  mineral  acid,  excepting  the  muriatic,  which 
is  combmcd  with  soda,  does  away  the  possibility  of  its 
being  the  effect  of  any  combination  of  that  kind.  Its 
production  is  therefore  truly  unaccountable."* 

In  addition  to  the  springs  already  enumerated,  a  val- 
uable SULPHUR  SPRING  was  discovered  a  few  years  since 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Hamilton  Spring,  in  the  rear  of  tho 
Congress  Hall,  It  rises  from  a  depth  of  about  twenty 
feci,  in  a  tube  of  about  4  feet  in  diameter,  and  affords  an 


♦  An  analysis  of  tho  waters  of  this  place  and  at  Balls- 
ton  Spa  was  made  and  published  by  Doct,  Steel  some 
years  since,  and  has  received  the  sanction  of  the  most 
scientific  men  in  this  country  and  in  Europe ;  since 
which  he  has  prepared  and  pubhshed  an  entire  new 
work,  embracing  not  only  an  analysis  of  the  various 
springs  and  directions  for  their  use  in  the  numerous  dis- 
eases in  which  they  have  proved  beneficial,  but  also  a 
full  and  interesting  history  of  their  discovery,  and  of  the 
rise  and  progress  of  the  villages  in  which  they  are  loca- 
ted. The  literary  attainments  of  Doct.  S.  and  his  great 
experience  from  a  long  residence  at  this  place,  have  en- 
abled him  to  render  this  work  far  superior  to  any  thing 
of  the  kind  which  has  appeared.  It  ought  also  to  be 
remarked,  that  no  invalid  should  attempt  the  use  of 
these  waters  without  the  direction  of  a  physician  well 
acquainted  with  their  properties,  A  contrary  course, 
under  the  too  prevalent  and  erroneous  impression  that 
they  may  be  drank  in  all  complaints,  in  any  quantity, 
and  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  has  been  attended  m  many 
instances  with  deleterious  and  sometimes  with  fatal 
consequences.  There  can  be  no  doubt  of  their  great 
efficacy  in  most  complaints,  when  properly  used  ;  yet 
ill-timed  and  too  copious  draughts  not  only  fail  of  re- 
moving complaints,  but  frequently  engender  them. 


— T'»". 


SARATOGA  IPRlNGt. 


171 


ample  supply  of  water  for  tho  bathing  cstabliahment 
with  which  it  is  connected.  It  has  already  proved  high- 
ly efficacious  in  n^ny  cases  of  salt  rheum,  scrofula 
and  other  cutaneous  eruptions ;  and  were  it  generally 
known,  would  undoubtedly  be  resorted  to  more  fre- 
quently by  persons  afflicted  with  these  complaints. 

The  boarding  establishments  of  the  first  class  at  Sar- 
atoga Springs  are  the  Congress  Hall  and  Union  Hall 
at  the  south  end  of  the  village,  the  Pavilion  at  the  north, 
and  the  United  States  Hotel  in  a  central  situation  be- 
tween them.  Besides  these,  th^e  are  a  number  of  oth- 
er boarding  houses  on  a  less  extensive  scale,  the  most 
noted  of  which  are  JV^ontgomery  Hall,  the  York  House 
and  the  Ad  el  phi  in  the  south  part,  the  Columbian  Ho- 
tel and  Washington  Hall  in  the  north  part  of  tho  vil- 
lage, and  the  Rail  Road  House  centrally  located.  Pros- 
pect Hall,  kept  by  Mr.  Benjamin  R.  Putnam,  is  on  a 
beautiful  site  about  one  mile  north-west  of  the  village, 
and  is  a  very  respectable  establishment.  Highland 
Hall,  half  a  mile  south  of  the  Congress  Spring,  is  also 
a  pleasant  house,  well  patronized. 

The  Congress  Hall,  kept  by  Mr.  C.  Munger,  is  sit- 
uated within  a  few  rods  of  the  Congress  Sprinp.  tr» 
which  a  handsome  walk  shaded  with  trees  has  been 
constructed  for  the  convenience  of  guests.  The  space 
in  front  of  the  building  is  occupied  by  three  apartments, 
each  of  which  is  enclosed  by  a  railing,  terminating  at 
the  front  entrance  of  the  piazza,  and  each  used  as  a 
flower  garden.  The  edifice  is  200  feet  in  length,  3 
stories  high,  besides  an  attic,  and  has  two  wings  ex- 
tending back,  one  60,  and  the  other  about  100  feet  In 
front  of  the  hall  is  a  spacious  piazza,  extruding  the 


■"%■■ 


172 


SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 


whole  length  of  the  building,  20  feet  in  width,  with  a 
canopy  from  the  roof,  supported  by  17  massy  columns, 
each  of  which  ia  gracefully  entwined  with  woodbine. 
There  is  also  a  back  piazza,  which  opens  upon  a  beau- 
tiful garden  annexed  to  the  establishment,  and  a  small 
grove  of  pines,  affording  both  fragrance  and  shade  to 
their  loitering  guests.  The  Congress  Hall  can  accom- 
modate from  250  to  300  visitants,  and  is  justly  ranked 
among  the  most  elegant  establishments  in  the  union. 

The  United  States  Hotel,  kept  by  Messrs.  Sea- 
man &  Marvin,  with  its  gardens  and  out  buildings,  oc- 
cupies a  space  in  the  centre  of  the  village  of  about  five 
acres.  The  main  building  is  composed  of  brick,  about 
200  feet  long  and  36  wide.  It  is  four  stories  high,  and 
has  a  wing  on  the  north  extending  west  60  feet,  three 
Btories  high.  A  building  on  the  south,  100  by  50  feet, 
also  extends  from  the  main  building  westwardly,  hav- 
ing a  number  of  parlors  and  lodging  rooms,  and  is  ap- 
propriated exclusively  to  the  use  of  families.  The  main 
building  has  a  broad  piazza,  running  the  full  length  in 
front  and  across  the  south  end,  connecting  with  one  in 
the  rear  and  with  one  fronting  the  apartments  for  pri- 
vate families.  The  interior  arrangements  are  on  a  pro- 
portionate scale — the  dining  and  drawing  rooms  being 
equalled  by  few  if  any  in  extent  and  elegance.  The 
ground  in  the  rear  of  the  hotel  is  handsomely  laid  out 
into  walks,  terminating  on  the  west  in  a  garden  belong- 
ing to  the  establishment,  and  the  whole  ir  tastefully  or* 
namented  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  iront  is  also 
shaded  by  a  row  of  forest  trees  extending  the  whole 
length  of  the  building.     The  hotel  is  situated  equally 


w^-^ 


SARATOGA   SPRINOfl. 


J  73 


distant  between  the  Confrrees  and  Flat  Rock  springs, 
and  commands  a  view  of  the  whole  village,  and  from 
its  fourth  story  a  distinct  prospect  is  had  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  for  a  number  of  miles.  This  estab- 
lishment can  accommodate  about  300  visitants,  and  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  splendid  edifices  in  the 
United  States. 

The  Pavilion  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  part  of  the  vil- 
lage, immediately  in  front  of  the  Flat  Rock  spring.  The 
building  is  constructed  of  wood,  136  feet  in  length,  with 
a  wing  extending  back  from  the  centre  of  the  main 
building  80  feet,  and  another  extending  along  Church 
street,  of  200  feet,  affording  numerous  private  parlors, 
communicating  with  lodging  rooms,  for  the  conven- 
ience of  families.  The  main  building  is  two  and  a  half 
stories  high,  with  the  addition  of  an  attic,  which,  with 
the  handsome  portico  in  front,  sustained  by  delicate 
colonnades,  renders  it,  in  beauty  and  proportion,  one  of 
the  first  models  of  architecture  this  country  can  pro- 
duce. The  large  rooms  of  the  Pavilion  are  so  construct- 
ed, that  by  means  of  folding  doors  the  whole  of  the  low- 
er apartments  may  be  thrown  into  one — an  advantage 
which  gives  much  additional  interest  to  the  promenade 
and  cotillion  parlies,  which  frequently  assemble  on  this 
extensive  area.  A  large  garden,  to  which  is  added  a 
fish  pond,  is  connected  with  the  establishment.  The 
Pavilion  is  calculated  for  the  accommodation  of  about 
250  visitants. 

The  Union  Hall  is  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  re- 
spectable establishments  in  the  vicinity,  and  is  situated 
directly  opposite  the  Congress  Hall.  It  presents  an  el- 
egant front,  120  feet  in  length,  3  stories  high,  with  I  wo 


llil 


174 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


wings  extending  west  60  feet,  and  also  an  adjoining 
building,  nearly  100  feet  long,  fitted  up  with  parlors,  &c. 
for  private  families.  The  Hall  is  ornamented  in  front 
by  10  columns,  which  rise  to  nearly  the  height  of  the 
building,  and  support  the  roof  of  a  spacious  piazza.  A 
garden  in  the  rear  also  contributes  to  the  pleasantness 
of  the  establishment.  It  is  kept  by  Messrs.  Putnam 
&  Taylor,  and  ranks  in  point  of  elegance  and  respect- 
abiUty  v/ith  the  most  favored  public  houses  in  the  vi- 
cinity. 

The  Adelphi  Hotel,  a  short  distance  south  of  the 
U.  States  Hotel,  is  composed  of  brick,  3  stories  high, 
and  is  well  furnished  and  well  kept  by  its  popular  ten- 
ant, Mr.  Cross. 

The  Columbian  Hotel  stands  a  few  yards  south  of 
the  Pavilion.  Annexed  to  the  establishment  is  a  hand- 
some garden,  lying  on  three  sides  of  the  building,  which 
adds  wmeh,  to  the  beauty  and  advantage  it  enjoys  in 
poi^ftt  of  natural  location. 

Irhe  Washington  Hall,  kept  by  Mr.  Root,  is  beau- 
tifully located  at  the  north  part  of  the  village,  and  is 
pati^onized  by  strangers  who  do  not  wish  to  mingle  in 
the  pleasures  of  the  larger  establishments. 

Th6  price  of  board  per  week  at  the  respective  houses 
is  from  4  to  12  dollars. 

The  Reading  Rooms.  There  is  in  the  village  a  print- 
ing office  and  bookstore,  with  which  is  connected  a 
reading  room,  a  mineralogical  room  and  a  library,  un- 
der the  superintendence  of  the  same  proprietor.  These 
rooms,  a  few  doors  north  of  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  are  con- 
tained in  the  same  building  with  the  library  and  book- 
store, but  have  their  separate  apartments*   That  appro- 


SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 


175 


priated  for  the  reading  room  is  furnished  by  the  daily 
mails  with  about  100  papers,  from  diflerent  parts  of  the 
United  States  and  from  the  Canadas,  besides  several 
periodical  publications.  The  mineralogical  apartment, 
on  the  second  story,  contains  specimens  of  all  the  min- 
erals discovered  in  this  vicinity,  together  with  a  variety 
from  different  parts  of  the  union  and  from  Eupope.  An 
apartment  adjoining  the  reading  room  contains  a  libra- 
aj  of  about  2500  volumes,  which  are  well  selected,  and 
receive  constant  additions  from  the  most  fashionable 
productions  of  the  day.  There  is  also  kept  at  the  rooms 
a  register  of  the  names  of  visitants  at  the  Springs,  their 
residence  and  places  of  board.  The  names  thus  en- 
tered frequently  number  from  8  to  10,000  in  the  course 
of  the  season. 

These  rooms  afford  a  pleasant  retreat  from  the  noise 
and  bustle  of  the  boarding  establishments,  and  are 
much  frequented  by  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  taste  and 
fashion. 

The  mail  arrives  at  the  Springs  every  day  in  16  or 
18  hours  from  New- York,  and  leaves  every  morning 
at  9  for  Albany,  intersecting  with  the  Boston  mail  at 
that  place.  Strangers  should  be  apprized  that  r  po  . 
office  is  established  in  the  town  of  Saratoga,  about  12 
miles  distant,  to  which  letters  intended  for  the  Springs 
are  often  mis-sent,  in  consequence  of  their  mis-di- 
rection. 

At  both  the  villages  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs, 
there  aio  always  sufficient  objects  of  amusement  to 
render  the  transient  residence  of  their  summer  guests 
pleasant  and  agreeable.  Those  whose  taste  is  not  other- 
wise gratified  can  always  enjoy  a  mental  recreation  at  the 


176 


SARATOGA  LAKE. 


reading  rooms ;  a  ride  on  the  rail  road,  carriages  for 
which  leave  both  villages  seveial  times  a  day ;  or  a  short 
excursion  in  the  neighborhood,  where  sufficient  beauty 
and  novelty  of  scenery  are  always  presented  to  render 
it  interesting.  The  amusements  of  the  day  are  usually 
crowned  wirti  (k.ball  or  promenade.  The  respective 
apartments  appropriated  for  these  occasions  are  calcu- 
lated to  accommodate  from  150  to  200  guests ;  but 
they  often  contain  a  much  greater  number. 

The  spacious  areas  of  the  cotillion  rooms  are  be- 
tween 80  and  120  feet  in  length,  and  when  enlivened 
by  the  associated  beauty  and  gaiety  resorting  to  the 
springs,  present  an  unusual  degree  of  novelty  and  fas- 
cination. 

About  two  miles  east  from  Saratoga  Springs  there  is 
also  a  small  fish  pond,  situated  on  the  farm  of  a  Mr. 
Barhyte.  Parties  often  resort  thither,  as  well  to  enjoy 
the  amusements  of  fishing  as  to  partake  of  a  repast  on 
trout,  the  proprietor  reserving  to  himself  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  serving  them  up.  Still  farther  east,  about 
four  miles  from  the  Springs,  is  situated  the 


Saratoga  Lake.  This  lake  is  9  miles  long  and  3 
broad,  A  resort  is  constantly  kept  up  at  Green's  and 
at  Riley's,  on  the  western  margin  of  the  lake,  the  for- 
mer about  four  and  the  latter  about  six  miles  distant 
from  Saratoga  Springs.  Sail  boats  are  here  fitted  up 
for  the  accommodation  of  parties  of  pleasure,  and  im- 
plements for  fishing  are  always  in  readiness  for  those 
who  take  pleasure  in  this  fashionable  diversion.  The 
western  shores  of  this  lake  are  accessible  but  in  a  few 
places,  in  consequence  of  the  adjacent  marshes  j  on  the 


BEMUS^  HEIGHTS. 


177 


east  side  the  land  is  more  elevated,  and  presents  a  fine 
prospect  of  farms  under  good  improvement.  The  lake 
is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Kayaderosseras  creek, 
which,  taking  its  rise  about  20  miles  in  a  northwest  di- 
rection, and  receiving  in  its  course  a  number  of  trib- 
utary streams,  flows  into  the  lake  on  the  west  side. 
Fish  cteek  forms  its  outlet,  through  which  the  waters 
of  the  lake  \re  communicated  to  the  Hudson  river  about 
8  miles  distant  in  an  easterly  direction.  This  creek 
empties  into  he  Hudson  river  at  Schuylerville,  noticed 
at  p.  179. 

Bemus'  Heights,  rendered  memorable  as  the  spot 
on  which  the  British  army  under  Gen.  Burgoyne  was 
defeated,  in  the  revolutionary  contest,  are  about  8  miles 
in  a  south-east v/ardly  direction  from  Green's  on  the 
Saratoga  Lake,  The  battle  ground  is  about  two  miles 
west  of  the  Hudson  river ;  and  though  without  much 
to  attract  in  its  location  or  surrounding  scenery,  will 
nevertheless  at  all  times  prove  interesting  from  its  as- 
sociation with  events  which  greatly  contributed  to  the 
establishment  of  American  independence. 

The  two  actions  which  preceded  the  surrender  of  the 
British  army  were  fought  on  the  iOth  of  September, 
1777,  and  on  the  17th  of  October  following.  On  the 
morning  of  the  8th,  the  American  army  marched  into 
the  British  camp,  which  had  been  deserted  the  evening 
previous.  The  enemy  continued  to  retreat  till  they  had 
reached  the  height  beyond  the  Fish  creek,  where  they 
encamped  on  the  10th.  Finding  his  retreat  cut  off  by  a 
party  of  troops,  who  had  taken  possession  in  his  rear, 
and  his  advance  impeded  by  suprior  numbers.  General 
Burgoyne  accepted  the  terms  of  capitulation,  proposed 


m-, 


178 


BBMUS^  HEIGHTS. 


by  General  Gates,  and  surrendered  his  whole  army  to 
the  American  forces  on  the  17th  October,  1777.  The 
surrender  took  place  at  Fon  Hardy,  where  the  British 
stacked  their  arms,  and  were  permitted  to  march  out 
with  the  honors  of  war.  This  fortunate  event  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  succession  of  brilliant  achievements,  and 
finally  led  to  the  surrender  of  Lord  Cornwallis,  which 
terminated  the  struggle  of  the  revolution,  after  a  period 
of  nearly  8  years  from  its  commencement. 

Freeman's  Farm,  on  which  the  principal  actions 
were  fought,  is  immediately  east  of  the  main  road  run- 
•  ;  ig  north  and  south,  a  road  passing  directly  across  it 
to  the  Hudson  river  in  an  eastwardly  direction.  I:"  a 
meadow  adjoining  the  first  mentioned  road,  about  ten 
rods  south  of  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  near  the  fence^ 
is  the  spot  where  Gen.  Frazer  fell.*  A  large  bass-wood 
tree  marked  the  place  for  a  time ;  but  having  been  cut 
down,  several  sprouts  which  have  sprung  up  from  tha 
parent  stock,  now  designate  the  spot.  A  few  rods  di- 
rectly south  of  this,  on  a  slight  eminence,  is  shown  the- 
place  where  Col.  Cilley  sat  a-straddle  of  a  brass  twelve 
pounder,  exulting  in  its  capture  ;  and  about  half  a  mile 
still  farther  south  is  shown  the  house,  still  standing,, 
which  was  used  by  Gen.  Gates  as  his  head-quarters. 

In  proceeding  to  the  river,  the  hill  on  which  Gen. 
Frazer  is  buried  is  pointed  out,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
east  of  the  battle  ground,  and  20  rods  north  of  the  road. 
His  remains  were  deposited,  at  his  request,  within  a 


*  Gen.  Frazer  was  second  in  command  to  Gen. 
Burgovne,  and  died  on  the  8th  of  October,  1777,  from 
wounds  received  in  battle  the  day  previous. 


8CHUTLER-TILLE. 


179 


redoubt  on  the  top  of  this  hill.  The  redoubt,  which  is 
of  an  oblong  form,  from  100  to  150  feet  in  diameter,  is 
still  perfectly  visible ;  and  the  spot  of  Gen.  Frazer's  in- 
terment is  near  the  centre,  though  no  monument  of 
any  description  has  ever  been  erected  to  mark  the  place 
where  repose  the  remains  of  this  gallant  warrior. 

Smithes  House,  in  which  General  Frazer  died,  and 
which,  at  that  time,  stood  near  the  foot  of  this  hill,  has 
been  removed  about  80  rods  in  a  north-eastwardly  di> 
rection  to  the  turnpike.  It  is  a  low  old  fashioned  Dutch 
building,  with  the  gable  end  to  the  river,  painted  yel- 
low— the  sides  red,  and  shingle  roof.  The  entrance  is 
towards  the  river,  under  an  old  dilapidated  portico — 
and  the  whole  bears  the  marks  of  antiquity — the  only 
addition  to  it  being  a  small  out-house.  The  room  in 
which  Gen.  Frazer  died  is  directly  in  front,  and  has  un- 
dergone no  material  change  since  that  period. 

Eight  miles  north  of  this,  on  the  turnpike,  is  the  vil- 
lage of 

Schuyler- ViLLE,  noted  as  the  residence  of  the  late 
Gen.  Schuyler,  and  still  more  so  as  the  place  where 
Gen.  Burgoyne  surrendered  to  the  American  army  in 
October,  1777. 

The  ground  on  which  the  surrender  took  place,  was 
IP  a  vale  nearly  east,  and  in  plain  view  of  the  stage 
house  on  the  turnpike  in  Schuyler- Ville,  and  still  ex- 
hibits the  remains  of  an  entrenchment  called  Fort  Har- 
dy. About  40  rods  in  a  south-east  direction,  at  the 
mouth  of  Fish  creek,  is  the  site  of  Fort  Schuyler.  The 
arms  of  the  British  were  stacked  in  the  vale  in  front  of 
p2 


m 


180 


rORT    EDWARD. 


Fort  Hardy,  and  from  thence  they  were  marched  to  the 
high  grounds  a  little  west  of  the  village,  and  admitted 
to  parol  as  prisoners  of  war.  At  the  southern  extremi- 
ty  of  the  vale  is  a  basin  for  the  northern  canal,  which- 
passes  through  this  place.  About  half  a  mile  south  of 
the  basin  stands  the  house  ol  I'hilip  Schuyler,  Esq.  lo- 
cated near  the  spot  where  once  stood  the  mansion  of 
his  pund-father,  the  intrepid  Gen.  Schuyler,  whidi,  with 
other  buildings,  were  burnt  by  the  British  army  on  their 
retreat  from  the  battle  of  the  7th  October. 

The  village  contains  80  or  90  houses,  and  an  exten<- 
sive  cotton  factory  and  machine  shop,  owned  by  Mr. 
Schuyler. 


Fort- Edward  is  12  miles  north  of  Schuyler-Ville. 
It  is  not  on  the  usual  route  of  travellers  from,  the 
Springs  to  Lake  George ;  but  being  a  short  distance 
only  from  Sandy-Hill,  it  may  be  easily  visited.  The 
fort,  once  situated  where  the  village  now  stands,  has 
long  since  been  demolished ;  though  its  former  loca- 
tion is  easily  traced  in  the  mounds  of  earth  which  aro 
still  visible.  About  100  rods  north  of  the  village  is  a 
dam  across  the  Hudson  river,  27  feet  high  and  900  feet 
long,  supplying  with  water  a  feeder  to  the  northern  ca- 
nal. Thecostofthisdam  was  $30,000.  There  is  also 
a  permanent  bridge  across  the  river  a  short  distance 
below, 

A  little  north  of  this,  on  the  west  side  of  the  road, 
the  traveller  is  shown  a  large  pine  tree,  with  a  spring 
near  its  foot,  memorable  as  the  spot  where  Miss  M'- 
Crsa  was  murdered  by  tiie  Indians  during  the  revolu- 
tionary war.    She  was  betrothed  to  a  Mr.  Jones,  an 


8ANDT   HILL. 


181 


American  refuges,  v/ho  was  in  F»  rgoyne's  army.  Anx- 
ious for  a  union  with  his  intends  r;  bride,  he  despatched 
a  party  of  Indians  to  r^scort  her  to  the  British  camp. 
Against  the  remonstrance  of  her  friends,  she  committed 
herself  to  the  charge  of  these  Indians.  She  wan  placed 
on  horseback,  and  accompanied  her  guides  to  the  spring 
in  question,  where  they  were  met  by  another  partj  .ent 
on  the  same  errand.  An  altercation  ensued  between 
them  as  to  the  promised  reward,  and  whi'e  t':iis  engag- 
ed they  were  atta^^'ieu  by  the  whites.  At  the  close  of 
the  conflict,  the  ;r«  happy  young  woman  was  lound  a 
short  distance  from  the  spring,  tomahawked  and  scalp- 
ed. There  is  a  tradition  that  her  scalp  was  divided  by 
the  respective  parties,  and  carried  to  her  agonized  lov- 
er. He  is  said  to  have  survived  the  shock  but  a  short 
time,  and  to  have  died  of  a  broken  heart.  The  name 
of  Miss  M'Crea  is  inscribed  on  the  tree,  with  the  date 
1777.  Her  remains  were  disinterred  a  few  years  since, 
and  depoBited  in  the  church- yard  at  Sandy  Hill. 

Sandt  Hill  is  two  miles  from  Fort  Edward,  o\\  the 
route  from  Saratoga  Springs  to  Lake  George.''  It  is 
situated  on  very  elevated  ground,  on  the  margin  of  the 
Hudson  river,  immediately  above  Baker's  Falls,  about 
19  miles  from  the  Springs.  The  streets  are  laid  out  in 
the  form  of  a  triangle.  In  the  centre  is  an  open  area, 
surrounded  by  handsomely  constructed    storet   and 

*  A  rail  road  is  now  constructing  from  Saratoga 
Springs  to  Whitehall,  on  Lake  Champlain,  40  mi:  ;s  in 
extent,  which  will  pass  through  this  place.  The  bridge 
across  the  river  will  be  1200  feet  long,  and  of  a  noble 
and  permanent  structure. 


iM 


%  ^' 


182 


CfTVN  FALLS, 


dwellings.  Tho  villige  contains  about  100  houses  s  to 
500  inhabitants.  The  courts  of  the  county  are  held  al- 
ternately here  and  at  Salem. 


Glcn*8  Falls,  a  village  more  populous,  is  3  miles 
further  up  the  Hudson  river,  on  the  direct  route  to  Lake 
George.    At  this  place  are  the  celebrated  falls  from 
which  the  village  takes  its  name.    These  are  situa- 
ted about  one  fourth  of  a  mile  south  of  the  village, 
near  a  bridge,  extending  partly  over  the  falls,  and 
from  which  the  best  view  of  them  may  be  had.    The 
falls  are  formed  by  the  waters  of  the  Hudson,  which 
flow  in  one  sheet  over  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  but 
are  immediately  divided  by  the  rocks  into  three  chan- 
nels.   The  height  of  the  falls  is  ascertained,  by  meas- 
urement, to  be  63  feet ;  though  the  water  flows  in  an 
angular  descent  of  4  or  500  feet.   Some  rods  below  the 
falls  is  a  long*  ^-ave  in  the  rocks,  extending  from  one 
channel  to  the  otliei'.    On  its  walls  are  inscribed  a  va- 
riety of  names  of  former  guests,  who  have  thought 
proper  to  pay  this  customary  tribute.  The  rocks,  which 
are  at  some  seasons  covered  with  water,  but  at  others 
entirely  dry,  are  chequered  with  small  indentations, 
and  in  many  places  considerable  chasms  are  formed, 
probably  by  pebbles  kept  in  motion  by  the  falling  wa- 
ter.   It  is  very  evident  that  these  falls,  like  those  of 
iNiagara,  were  once  a  considerable  distance  lower  down 
the  river — the  banks  below  being  composed  of  shelving 
rocks,  from  30  to  70  feet  perpendicular  height.    On  the 
north  side  of  the  river  is  a  navigable  feeder,  communi- 
cating with  the  Champlain  canal.    It  commences  near- 
ly two  miles  above  the  falls,  and,  with  the  exception  of 


GLEN*8   FALLS. 


183 


about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  which  appears  to  have  been 
cut  out  of  a  shelving  rock,  runs  along  a  ravine  east  of 
Sandy  Hill,  and  intersects  the  main  canal  some  dis- 
tance below.* 

There  are  extensive  quarries  of  black  und  vario''^ted 
marble  at  Glen's  Falls,  which  is  here  sawed  in         '^ 
and  transported  to  New- York  for  manufacture. 

Conveyances  from  Sandy  Hill,  via  Glen'?*  i  -       to 
Lake  George,  may  at  all  times  be  procured. 
Glen's  Falls  to  the  Lake  the  distance  is  9  miles  over  an 


*  Jessup's  Falls,  which  are  about  10  miles  abovo 
Glen's  Falls  on  the  Hudson,  are  worthy  the  attention 
of  travellers.  The  whole  scenery  is  highly  romantic 
and  picturesque,  and  the  descent  of  the  falls,  which  are 
perpendicular  and  embrace  the  wliole  river  in  an  entire 
sheet,  is  nearly  100  feet.  Five  miles  farther  north  are 
the  Hadlet  Falls,  which  are  a  succession  of  pitches 
over  a  rocky  and  uneven  bed.  The  whole  descent, 
commencing  at  the  upper  fall,  is  between  80  and  100 
feet.  Over  the  lower  fall  a  permanent  bridge,  about  50 
feet  from  the  water,  is  erected.  The  river  here  is  con- 
tracted to  a  vcr}-  narrow  space,  within  lofty  rocky  em- 
bankments, between  which  the  water  rushes  with  great 
force  and  wildness  into  the  basin  below,  uniting  with 
the  Sacondujra  river,  a  large  and  rapid  stream,  which 
rises  about  60  miles  at  the  north-west.  Both  of  these 
rivers  abound  with  trout  and  other  fish,  affording  ample 
employment  for  those  who  are  fond  of  angling.  The 
country  here  is  extremely  rugged  and  mountainous, 
and  presents  but  little  appearance  of  cultivation. 

Travellers  designing  to  visit  these  places,  will  find 
it  the  most  convenient  to  take  a  carriage  at  Saratoga 
Springs,  from  which  to  Jessup's  Falls  is  14  miles,  and 
to  Hadley  Falls  5  miles  further.  The  route  is  over  a 
good  road,  and,  including  a  visit  of  two  or  three  hours, 
may  be  easily  performed  (going  and  returning)  in  a  day. 


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184 


CALDWELL — LAKE  GEORGE. 


^  indifferent  road,  affording  little  other  variety  than 
mountains  and  forests,  with  here  and  there  a  rustic 
hamlet.  Within  three  and  a  half  miles  of  Lake  George 
on  the  right  hand,  and  a  short  distance  from  the  road, 
is  pointed  out  the  rock  at  the  foot  of  which  Col.  Wil- 
liams was  massacred  by  the  Indians,  durmg  the  French 
war.  At  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  farther,  on  the 
same  side  of  the  road,  is  the  "Bloody  Pondy"  so  called 
from  its  waters  having  been  crimsoned  with  the  blood 
of  the%8lain  who  fell  in  its  vicinity,  during  a  severe  en- 
gagement in  1755.  It  is  said  that  skulls  are  found  in 
the  neighborhood  of  this  pond,  and  that  numerous  oth- 
ers may  be  taken  from  the  bottom.  Three  miles  far- 
(ii      ther  is  situated  the  village  of 

Caldwell,  on  the  south-western  margin  of  the  lake. 
This  village  contains  a  number  of  neat  little  buildings, 
and  about  400  inhabitants.  The  Lake  George  Coffee 
House  is  fitted  up  in  good  style,  and  can  accommodate 
from  80  to  100  visitants.  There  are  here,  also,  a  post* 
office,  a  church,  and  a  court  house.  The  village  is  bor- 
dered on  the  east  by  a  range  of  hills,  to  the  highest  of 
which,  called  Prospect  Hill,  a  road  has  been  made,  and 
though  difficult  of  ascent,  the  toil  is  richly  compensated 
in  the  diversified  and  extensive  prospect  afforded  from 


its  summit. 

•■    "•  ( 

,'       LAinS  GEORGE 

[hv 

Is  situated  but  a  short  day's  ride  from  the  village  of 
Saratoga  Springs,  (27  miles,)  from  whence  an  excur- 
sion to  the  Lake  is  considered  as  a  matter  of  course. 
Indeed  there  are  few  places  where  a  greater  variety  of 


■*♦■■ 


LAKB  GEORGE. 


185 


inducements  attract  the  stranger  than  at  Lake  Geoi^e. 
Besides  the  interest  which  is  excited  from  an  associa- 
tion of  many  important  historic  events,  this  place  is 
Tendered  peculiarly  interesting  from  the  unrivalled  ex- 
hibition of  the  beautiful  and  romantic  scenery  presentp 
ed  by  the  lake  and  its  environ?.  At  the  village  of  Cald- 
well the  lake  is  about  one  mile  in  width,  but  it  general- 
ly varies  from  three  fourths  of  a  mile  to  four  miles.  The 
whole  length  is  36  miles.  The  waters  are  discharged 
into  Lake  Champlain,  at  Ticonderoga,  by  an  outlet 
which,  in  the  distance  of  2  miles,  falls  180  feet. 

Lake  George  is  remarkable  for  the  transparency  of 
its  waters.  They  are  generally  very  deep,  but  at  an 
ordinary  depth  the  clean  gravelly  bottom  is  distinctly 
visible.  The  great  variety  of  excellent  fish  which  are 
caught  here  renders  it  a  favorite  resort  for  those  who 
are  fond  of  angling.  The  salmon  trout  is  caught  in 
abundance,  weighing  from  12  to  20  pounds.  The  lake 
is  interspersed  with  a  great  number  of  small  islands, 
the  principal  of  which.  Diamond  Island,  once  contain- 
ing a  military  fortification,  and  Tea  Island,  on  which  is 
a  summer  house  erected  for  thd'  amusement  of  parties 
of  pleasure,  are  visible  from  the  head  of  the  lake.  The 
whole  number  of  islands  is  said  to  equal  the  number  of 
days  in  a  year. 

The  scenery  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  is  generally 
mountainous,  With  the  exception  of  some  intervals, 
chequered  with  fruitful  cultivation,  the  land  recedes 
from  the  lake  with  a  gentle  acclivity,  for  a  few  rods, 
and  then,  with  a  bolder  ascent,  to  an  elevation  of  from 
500  to  1500  feet.  The  best  view  of  the  lake  and  its 
environs  is  had  from  the  southern  extremity,  near  the 


It 


186 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


remains  of  old  Fort  George,'"  from  whence  the  prospect 
embraces  the  village  of  Caldwell  and  the  numerous  lit- 
tle islands  rising  from  the  calm  bosom  of  the  lake, 
whose  waters  are  beautifully  contrasted  with  the  par- 
allel ridges  of  craggy  mountains,  through  an  extent  of 
nearly  14  miles.  Ncolt  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake 
are  the  ruins  of  an  old  fortification,  called 

Fort  W:lliam  Henrt.    Vestiges  of  the  walls  and 
out-works  are  still  to  be  seen.    Previous  to  its  con- 
struction, the  site  of  the  fort  was  occupied  by  the  Eng- 
lish army  under  the  command  of  Sir  WilUam  John- 
son, who  was  making  preparations  for  an  attack  upon 
Crown  Point.    Before  any  movement  was  made  by 
Sir  William,  the  French  army,  under  the  command  of 
Baron  Dieskau,  marched  from  Ticonderoga  for  Fort 
Edward,  but  afterwards  changing  his  purpose,  he  was 
proceeding  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  when  he  unexpect- 
edly fell  in  with  a  party  of  the  English,  who  had  been 
detached  by  Sir  William  for  the  relief  of  Fort  Edward. 
A  severe  battle  ensued,  in  which  the  English  were  de- 
feated, and  compelled  hastily  to  retire  from  the  field. 
They  were  pursued  into  their  intrenchments  by  the 
French  army,  who  commenced  a  furious  assault  upon 
the  English  camp,  but  were  repulsed  with  great  slaugh- 
ter.   The  discomfited  Baron,  on  his  retreat  from  this 
unsuccessful  attack,  was  a  third  time  engaged  by  a  par- 
ty of  English,  who  had  been  despatched  by  the  garrison 


'*'  A  very  good  prospect  is  also  obtained  from  the  top 
of  the  Lake  George  House ;  but  one  far  better  from 
Prospect  Hill,  previously  mentioned. 


'r 


LAKE  6B0R6C. 


187 


at  Fort  Edward,  to  succor  Sir  William  Johnson,  and 
totally  defeated.    These   three  several  engagements 
took  place  on  the  same  day,  the  6th  September,  1755, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Bloody  Pond,  into  which  the  bodies  of 
the  slain  were  afterwards  thrown.    In  1757  Fort  Wil- 
liam Henry  contained  a  garrison  of  3000  men,  under 
the  command  of  Col.  Munroe.  The  Marquis  de  Mont- 
calm, after  three  attempts  to  besiege  the  fort  in  form, 
reinforced  his  army  to  about  10,000  men,  and  summon- 
ed Col.  Munroe  to  surrender.    This  summons  being 
refused,  Montcalm,  after  a  furious  assault,  obliged  the 
English  to  capitulate.    The  terms  of  the  capitulation, 
though  honorable  to  the  English,  were  shamefully  vio- 
lated by  the  Indians  attached  to  the  French  army,  who 
massacred  the  whole  garrison,  except  a  small  remnant 
who  made  their  escape  to  Forfl  Edward.    The  fort  was 
razed  to  the  ground  by  Montcalm,  and  was  never  after- 
wards rebuilt.    This  spot  was  the  scene  of  embarka- 
tion of  Gen.  Abercrombie,  who,  in  1758,  descended  the 
ike  with  an  army  of  15,000  men,  for  an  attack  on  Ti- 
conderoga.    About  80  rods  farther  south,  on  a  com- 
manding eminence,  are  situated  the  vestiges  of  old 
Fort  George.    This  fort,  though  not  distinguished  by 
any  event  of  importance,  yet,  in  connection  with  the 
history  of  Lake  George,  imparts  an  interest  which  a 
stranger  will  readily  embrace  in  a  visit  to  its  moulder- 
ing ruins.    A  part  of  the  walls,  which  were  originally 
built  of  stone,  are  still  visible,  from  30  to  40  feet  in 
height.    This  fort  was  the  depot  for  the  stores  of  Gen. 
Burgoyne,  for  some  time  during  the  revolutionary  war. 
A  steam  boat  usually  performs  a  daily  trip  on  Lake 
George,  so  as  to  intersect  the  boats  running  on  Lake 


' .  ■((.••• 


188 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


I    e 


Charaplain ;  leaving  Caldwell  in  the  morning,  and  re- 
turning at  evening.  The  length  of  the  lake,  on  which 
the  boat  runs,  is  36  miles — fare  $2.  From  the  steam 
boat  landing  to  Ticonderoga  is  a  distance  of  3  miles  ; 
for  which  a  conveyance  is  provided,  going  and  return- 
ing, for  50  cents  each  way.  Refreshments  are  provided 
at  a  taveni,  half  a  mile  from  the  landing,  after  which 
parties  usually  proceed  to  the  fort,  and  return  to  the 
tavern  the  same  evening,  from  whence  they  may  take 
the  boat  on  its  return  the  next  day  to  Caldwell. 

The  Passage  of  Lake  George  cannot  fail  to  im- 
part a  great  degree  of  interest,  even  to  the  most  indif- 
ferent observer.  The  Lake  is  interspersed  with  a  great 
variety  of  islands,  some  of  which  are  very  small,  but 
yet  serve  the  purpose  of  diversifying  the  prospect.  The 
smooth,  green  surface  of  the  water  is  strikingly  con- 
trasted!^ with  the  bold  and  rugged  shores  of  the  Lake, 
which  vaiy  their  distance  from  |  of  a  mile  to  4  miles 
in  width,  and  occasionally  rise  to  1,500  feet  in  height. 
These  circumstances,  added  to  the  numerous  historical 
associations  which  are  continually  suggested  to  the 
mind,  and  to  the  animation  which  a  fair  day  and  pros- 
perous passage  are  calculated  to  impart,  serve  to  create 
impressions  which  must  always  be  remembered  with 
peculiar  satisfaction. 

Ten  miles  from  Caldwell,  down  the  Lake,  are  a 
range  of  mountains  possessed  by  a  celebrated  hunter 
as  a  Deer  Pasture.  In  the  spring,  when  the  vegeta- 
tion of  the  previous  year  is  sufficiently  dry,  he  sets  fire 
to  the  mountains.  Subsequently,  green  and  tender 
herbs  spring  forth,  and  induce  droves  of  deer  to  resort 
thither  in  quest  of  food ;  by  which  means  the  hunter 


LAKE   GEORGE. 


189 


are  a 
lunter 
sgeta- 
ktsfire 
lender 
Iresort 
mnter 


succeeds  in  killing  hundreds  annually.  On  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  lake,  at  a  very  considerable  elevation,  is 
the  residence  of  a  wealthy  farmer  of  fiolton.  Two 
miles  further  is  Twelve  Mile  Island,  being  that  dis- 
tance from  Caldwell.  It  is  of  a  circular  form,  of  about 
20  acres,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  is  elevat- 
ed 30  or  40  feet  above  the  water.  From  thence  one 
mile,  on  the  north  west  side  of  the  lake,  is  '       i 

Tongue  Mountain,  with  West  Bat  on  its  west 
side,  one  and  a  half  miles  wide,  and  extending  in  a 
northerly  direction  6  miles.  What  are  called  the  Nar> 
rows  commence  here,  and  continue  for  6  or  7  miles,  be- 
ing three  fourths  of  a  mile  wide  and  very  deep.  A  line 
500  feet  long  has  been  used  in  sounding  without  reach- 
ing bottom. 

Black  Mountain,  18  miles  from  the  head  of  the 
Lake,  is  situated  on  the  east  side,  and  has  been  ascer- 
tained, by  admeasurement,  to  be  S200  feet  in  height. 
Opposite  to  Black  Mountain,  near  the  western  shore,  is 

Half  Wat  Island.  A  short  distance  north  of  this 
is  some  of  the  finest  mountain  scenery  on  the  conti- 
nent The  mountains  exhibit  an  undulating  appear- 
ance, are  thickly  studded  with  pines  and  firs,  and  inter- 
spersed with  deep  and  almost  impenetrable  caverns. 

Sabbath  Dat  Point,  24  miles  from  Caldwell,  is  a 
projection  of  the  main  land  into  the  Lake  from  the  west 
side.  It  is  a  place  on  which  the  English  troops  landed 
on  the  Sabbath  during  the  French  war,  and  is  the 
spot  on  which  a  sanguinary  battle  was  fought  witl.  the 
Indians.  The  English,  with  no  chance  of  retreat,  were 
all  killed.    From  thence,  3  miles,  is  a  small  island  call- 


190 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


I  . 


ed  the  Scotch  Bonnet.  Three  miles  further  on  the 
west  shore  of  the  lake,  is  a  little  hamlet  called  by  the 
inhabitants  the  city  of  Hague,  containing  only  two  or 
three  dwellings,  and  as  many  saw  mills.  The  lake  is 
here  4  miles  wide,  being  its  greatest  width.  From  this 
place  to 

Ro6ER*s  Slide  is  3  miles.  This  is  celebrated  as 
the  spot  where  Col.  Rogers  escaped  from  the  Indians 
during  the  French  war.  The  descent  is  an  angle  of 
about  25  degrees,  over  a  tolerably  smooth  rock,  200 
feet  in  height.  The  Col.  who  had  been  a  great  foe  to 
the  Indians,  was  nearly  surrounded  by  them  on  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  and  found  no  other  means  of  escape 
than  to  slide  down  this  precipice.  It  being  winter,  and 
having  snow  shoes  on  his  feet,  he  landed  safely  on  the 
ice;  The  Indians  aflerwards  saw  him ;  but  supposing 
that  no  human  being  could  have  made  the  descent,  and 
that  he  must,  of  course,  be  supernatural,  they  conclud- 
ed it  not  only  useless  but  dangerous  to  follow  him. 

Anthont^s  Nose,  so  called  from  its  singular  shape, 
is  a  high  rock,  nearly  opposite  fo  Roger's  slide.  The 
shores  here  are  bold  and  contracted,  and  exhibit  mas- 
sive rocks,  which  are  from  50  to  100  feet  in  height. 
From  thence  to 

Prisoner's  Island,  is  two  miles,  a  spot  where  pris- 
oners were  confined  during  the  French  war ;  and  di- 
rectly west  of  this  is  Lord  Howe's  Point,  so  called 
from  being  the  place  where  Lord  Howe  landed  imme- 
diately previous  to  the  battle  in  which  he  was  killed  at 
Ticonderoga.  He  was  a  brother  of  Lord  Howe,  who 
commanded  the  British  forces  at  Philadelphia  during 
the  revolutionary  war.    The  water  here,  from  a  deep 


TICOKDEROGA. 


191 


green,  assumes  a  light  color,  owing  to  a  clayey  bottom. 
From  thence  to  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  which  terminates 
the  steam  boat  passage,  is  one  mile.  Three  miles  fur- 
ther, over  a  circuitous  and  uneven  road,  in  an  easterly 
direction,  is  the  fort  and  ruins  of  i    >  :  <  ;  , .  ^  i ; 

'^'  TicoNDERooA.    The  point  projccts  between  the  lake 
on  one  side,  which  here  suddenly  expands  to  the  west, 
and  the  creek  on  the  other  side,  which  unites  the  waters  ^ 
of  lakes  George  and  Champlain,    On  the  opposite  side  , 
of  the  latter  lake,  in  a  south  east  direction,  stands 
Mount  Independence.    Mount  Defiance,  720  feet  in 
height,  is  situated  across  the  creek  directly  west  of  the< 
Fort    This  height  was  occupied  by  the  artillery  of 
Gen.  Burgoyne  in  1777,  when  the  Americans  were 
compelled  to  evacuate  Ticonderoga.    The  fortress  of  u 
Ticonderoga  was  first  constructed  by  the  French  in  % 
1 756.    The  works  appear  to  have  been  very  strong,  are  ^ 
elevated  about  200  feet  above  the  level  of  lake  Cham- 
plain,  and  fmany  of  the  walls  are  still  standing.    The 
magazine  is  nearly  entire.    It  is  35  feet  long,  15  feet 
wide,  and  8  feet  high,  constructed  under  ground,  of  i^^ 
stone,  and  arched.    A  subterraneous  passage  leader|; 
from  the  southwest  corner  of  the  works  to  the  lake,  20  t 
or  30  rods  in  length.   Through  this  passage  Gol.  Ethan  i 
Allen  passed  when  he  took  possession  of  the  fort  **  in  , 
the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Con^ 
grea»,"    The  remains  of  another  fortification,  built  dur- 
ing the  revoluti(Hiary  war,  are  still  to  be  seen  about  60 
rods  farther  south  on  the  point  adjoining  the  lake.  The 
walls  next  to  the  lake  are  nearly  60  feet  high. 
r2 


19S 


TICONDEROGA. 


In  1758  Ticonderoga  was  attacked  by  General  Aber- 
crombie,  who  was  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  2000  men. 
On  the  approach  of  Gen.  Amherst,  in  1759,  it  was  quiet- 
ly abandoned  by  the  French,  as  was  also  Crown  Point. 
It  continued  in  possession  of  the  British  until  the  year 
1775,  when  it  was  taken  by  Col.  Allen.  On  evacuating 
the  fort  in  1777,  Gen.  St.  Clair  ordered  a  detachment 
to  accompany  the  American  stores  and  baggage  to 
Whitehall,  where  they  were  pursued  by  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne,  and  from  thence  to  Fort  Ann.  At  the  latter 
place  a  smart  skirmish  ensued  between  the  two  parties, 
in  which  the  British  sustained  a  considerable  loss.  The 
main  army  retired  from  Ticonderoga  to  Hubbardton, 
where  a  party,  consisting  of  about  1000  under  Col. 
Warner,  were  overtaken  by  the  Briiish  advanced  guard, 
and  after  a  severe  action  abandoned  the  field  to  superior 
numbers.  From  thence  they  joined  Gen.  Schuyler  at 
Fort  Edward  on  the  12th  July,  1777.         .      : 

From  Ticonderoga,  travellers  may  beconveyed  across 
the  lake  to  Larrabee's,  in  Shoreham,  Vermont,  a  dis- 
tance of  one  mile,  where  those  designing  a  tour  to 
Montreal  and  Gluebec,  may  take  passage  in  a  Cham- 
plain  steam  boat,  for  St  Johns.  The  boat  arrives  at 
Larrabee^s  towards  evening,  and  the  passage  from 
thence  to  Plattsburgh,  with  the  exception  of  .-.bout  15 
miles  to  Crown  Point,  is  generally  in  the  night  At 
present  the  most  usual  arrangements  of  the  tourist  are, 
after  visiting  Lake  George  and  Tic(mderoga,  to  return 
to  the  Springs,  and  from  thence  proceed  by  the  rail 
road  to  Schenectady,  where  a  passage  can  be  taken 
twice  a  day  for  Niagara. 


KXCORIION  TO  THK  WEST. 


\n 


i ::  r 


* .   w  u  iiit^      EXCURSION  TO  THE  WEST. 


Travellers  who  design  to  visit  Niagara  and  return 
without  proceeding  down  Lake  Ontario  to  Montreal, 
will  find  an  excursion  the  most  pleasant  and  diversified 
by  taking  the  rail  roads  wherever  they  are  completed, 
and  stages  in  going  and  canal  boats  in  returning,  on 
the  intermediate  parts  of  the  route.    The  stage  route 
affords  a  better  prospect  of  the  populous  parts  of  the 
country ;  but  is  generally  so  far  from  the  canal,  that  no 
opportunity  is  given  of  witnessing  many  of  the  thriving 
villages  on  its  banks.    It  is  therefore  advisable  so  to 
arrange  a  tour  that  the  most  interesting  parts  of  both 
routes  may  be  seen  in  going  and  returning.    To  efllect 
this,  a  rail  road  passage  can  be  taken  at  Saratoga 
Springs  to  Utica,  100  miles,  which,  whenever  the  (Jtica 
and  Syracuse  and  Auburn  rail  roads  are  finished,  can  be 
extended  to  the  latter  place,  80  miles  farther ;  but  until 
then,  the  stage  route,  passing  through  Skaneateles, 
Auburn,  Geneva,  Canandaigua  and  Batavia  to  Buffalo, 
200  miles  from  Utica,  will  be  continuous,  unless  Ro- 
chester shall  be  taken  in  the  excursion — in  which  oa^e, 
the  Tonawanta  rail  road,  from  that  place  to  Batavia,  32 
miles  distant,  can  be  taken,  and  the  stage  route  pursued 
to  Buffalo,  40  miles  farther.    In  returning  the  tourist 
can  take  the  rail  road  from  Bufialoto  Niagara  Falls,  22 
miles ;  and  a  stage  from  thence  to  Lockport,  20  miles, 
(until  the  rail  road  between  the  two  places  is  finished ;) 
a  canal  packet  from  thence,  via  Rochester,  Palmyra, 
Syracuse  and  Rome  to  Utica,  223  miles ;  and  a  rail 
road  from  tiience  to  Saratoga  Springs  or  Albany. 


194 


EXCURIION  TO  THE  WEST. 


If  the  tourist  designs  to  return  by  the  way  of  Mon- 
treal, the  following  route  to  the  Falls  is  recommended 
as  the  most  interesting :  Rail  road  from  Saratoga 
Springs  to  Utica,  (as  before,)  100  miles ;  stage  or  canal 
packet  to  Syracuse,  61  miles;  rail  road  to  Auburn,  92 
miles ;  stage,  via  Seneca  Falls,  Waterloo,  Geneva  and 
Canandaigua,  to  Rochester,  66  miles ;  rail  road  to  Ba« 
tavia,  32  miles ;  stage  (until  rail  road  is  completed)  to 
Buffiilo,  40  miles ;  rail  road  to  the  Falls,  22  miles ; 
stage  to  Lewiston,  7  miles;  from  whence  (and  at 
Clueenston,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Niagara  river) 
the  Lake  Ontario  steam  boats  are  taken  for  Montreal.  , 

That  tourists,  however,  may  be  the  better  enabled  to 
gratify  their  taste  as  to  the  mode  of  travelling,  we  sub- 
Join  a  sketch  of  the  stage  and  canal  routes,  disconnect- 
ed, premising  that  a  change  from  one  to  the  other  may 
be  effected  at  various  points.      ,.    ., ,.  j,^  , ,  ,  , 

«:i;;v»  iB^»i  ^ 'k  .;.^.' i.ii  »'*.i  :■'■.,•' I;' ■"';. ;  ,,  ,,  '  '•  '.  .;^ 
.^!i<'>tK:>):75ilH  :irf.r?-^.iit  ;-;)'•,.  i>/ ;  ,  -  r'.'.  ■■•,  ■>:';'  :■)• 
^'-'ih'Muil  ii  -{Jvtvti;!*;  •  r.i;' riy-i-^  ir-::/^.J  ,(.■  ,•■  ':  ,  •  ■.:f^.^ 
'OV  %-.-j)ijro- ,>r!<i'J''Ui'fi'f^  :,;'■?  (il  ;/  ,■..>.':''.  ii'.n.'i  ■■■  !.rr  It*-'- 
,nv«  >  ihu':i  ■u—-r.\.  :;r'r'»  ill  ??,  ,,r^^l,i*  •,,[  i;.  ,;•  ^.,,;,  ,.y , 
}*lK3ivr?U;'i  o]  -v.r'  ;  t  )>!>  :.=<?■!'!  J>jr,-  Iv;/  s^k:-  ■^■.ao'V  •  r'; 

m.^iUi'i  Kti:v^i'/[  <irn\J)uii  nvn'  l>r«rTliifj  ';mI  Oii^j  rv. 
(ri^imrkbjiV  Jria-^ifjifT  cvHsih  i,;'^';'•w^f^r|  hn<n  Urn  :w':  "?t  <; 


!^, 


'■x.^r\   it  hnn  t -t'-jm;  t-r.^  .mn'J   ft]  M'^vli   Iri:  >^y- 


(••Vf»*>'.A,V, 


r^^'i^^h  ■"■}  >rpvr;riv ''^  .n'nr'!iKtt^  f.i  [■•^,u 


;,'•,, "i  h^^'j^ 


FROM  lARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO  BUFFALO. 


195 


I' 


FROM  SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO  BUFFALO — 302  milCS. 

[Rail  Road  and  Stage  Route.] 
-■]'•[  '    Distance  from 


■  '^   *!  t  y-     '    ■.  •' 

By  Rail  Road. 

Saratoga  Springs, 

Ballston  Spa,.  *  ...••..  • 

Schenectaay, 

Amsterdam, 

Fonda, 

Palatine  Bridge, 

Fort  Plain, 

St  Johnsville, 

Little  Falls, 

Herkimer, 

Utica, 

By  Stage. 

New  Hartford, 

Manchester, 

Vernon,  • .  • 

Oneida  Castle, 

Lenox, 

aualityHill 

Chitteningo, 

Manlius, 

Jamesville, 

Onondaga  Hollow,  .... 

Onondaga  Hill, .  • 

Marcellus,.. 

Skaneatele8,.«>  •••• 

Auburn,  .«..•< 


Q 


& 

O 


CQ 


a 


•a 


.a 

< 


0 

H 

15 
16 
10 
11 

3 

7 
10 

7 
14 

4 
5 
8 
5 
3 
3 
5 
8 
6 
4 
3 
8 
6 
7 


0 
6i 

21* 

37 

47 

58 

61 

68 

78 

85 

99 

103 
108 
116 
131 
124 
127 
132 
140 
146 
150 
153 
161 
167 
174 


21i 
15 
0 
16 
26 
37 
40 
48 
58 
65 
78 

82 

87 

95 
100 
103 
105 
111 
119 
125 
129 
132 
140 
146 
153 


99 
92i 
78 
62 
52 
41 
38 
31 
21 
14 
0 

4 

9 
17 
22 
25 
28 
33 
41 
47 
51 
54 
62 
68 
75 


174 

167 

153 

137 

127 

116 

113 

106 

96 

89 

75 

71 
66 
58 
53 
50 
47 
42 
34 
28 
24 
91 
13 
7 
0 


»*• 


6 


302 
295 
281 
265 
255 
244 
341 
334 
324 
317 
203 

199 

194 

186 

181 

178 

175 

170 

162 

156 

152 

149 

141 

135 

128 


)   i| 


196 


TJTICA    AND    SCHEN&CTADT   RAIL    ROAD. 


Distance  from 


• 

• 

a. 

^ 

a 

03 

'2 

CL, 

d 

5 

• 

2 
o 

bD 

1 

m 

to 

1 

V3 

1 
6 

s 

• 

o 

Cayuga, 

Seneca  Falls, 

Waterloo, 

Geneva, 

Canandaigua, . . . . 
East  Bloomfield, . . 
WestBloomfield,, 
Lima, ...... ...... 

East  Avon, 

Avon  Post  Office, 

Caledonia, 

Leroy, 

Batavia, 

Pembroke, 

Clarence, 

Williamsville,  ..» 
BuflTalo, 


8 
4 
4 
7 

16 
9 
5 
4 
5 
2 
8 
6 

10 

14 
8 
8 

10 


182 

161 

83 

186 

165 

87 

190 

169 

91 

197 

176 

98 

213 

192 

114 

222 

201 

123 

227 

206 

128 

231 

210 

132 

236 

215 

137 

238 

217 

139 

246 

225 

147 

252 

231 

153 

262 

241 

163 

276 

255 

177 

284 

263 

185 

292 

271 

193 

302 

281 

203 

8 

120 

12 

116 

16 

112 

23 

105 

39 

89 

48 

80 

53 

75 

57 

71 

62 

66 

64 

64 

72 

56 

78 

50 

88 

40 

102 

26 

110 

18 

118 

10 

128 

0 

A  passage  by  rail  road  between  Saratoga  Springs 
and  Utica  can  beeflected  twico  a  day — the  time  usually 
employed  being  7  hours — fare  on  both  roads  $4,25. 
The  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rait  lof'A  was  noticed 
at  page  151. 

The  Utica  and  Schenectady  Rail  Road  com- 
mences in  State  street  in  Schenectady,  and  crossing  the 
Mohawk  river  on  a  new  and  permanent  bridge  800  feet 
long,  continues  in  a  northerly  direction  parallel  with  the 
Saratoga  road  for  about  a  mile,  when  it  curves  to  the 


UTICA  AND  SCHENECTADY  RAILROAD. 


197 


£Q 
I2O 

116 
112 
105 
89 
80 
75 
71 
66 
64 
56 
50 
40 
26 
18 
10 
0 


>in- 
I  the 
feet 
the 
Ithe 


west,  and  pursues  the  direction  of  the  Mohawk  valley, 
which  it  reaches  in  about  8  miles.    From  thence  it  con- 
tinues along  the  northern  bank  and  generally  in  view 
of  the  river  till  within  3  or  4  miles  of  Utica,  when  it  re- 
crosses  the  river  and  the  southern  bank  is  taken  to 
Utica.    The  country  is  remarkably  level,  and  generally 
favorable  for  a  rail  road — the  acclivities,  with  a  solitary 
exception,  not  exceeding  15  or  16  feet  per  mile.    At 
Tripo  Hill,  about  20  miles  from  Schenectady,  there  is 
aa  excavation  of  some  magnitude  through  solid  rock ; 
after  passing  which,  the  valley  spreads  out  and  affords  & 
route  of  several  miles   through  some  of  the   finest 
meadows  in  the  state.    At  the  Nose,  12  miles  farther, 
the  passage  becomes  contracted   by  bold  and  lofly 
mountains,  affording,  for  some  distance,  a  scanty  width 
for  the  rail  road,  turnpike,  river  and  canal,  the  latter  of 
which  is  on  the  southern  side  of  the  Mohawk.    After 
passing  Palatine,  Canajoharie  and  FortPlain,  embraced 
within  a  distance  of  12  or  14  miles,  the  valley  again 
widens,  affording  a  charming  view  of  hill  and  dale,  un- 
til reaching  the  mountain  scenery  near  Little  Falls. 
This  is  by  far  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  route. 
Within  two  miles  of  the  village,  the  passage  of  the  river 
is  confined  within  very  narrow  hmits  between  two  lofly 
and  precipitous  mountains.    To  find  room  for  the  canal, 
it  became  necessary  to  excavate  and  remove  immenso 
masses  of  rock,  and  even  to  form  an  aqueduct  for  a 
portion  of  it  in  the  river.    Similar  labor  was  requi- 
site on  the  opposite  side  in  finding  a  passage  for  the  rail 
road.    For  a  considerable  distance  the  carriages  run 
very  near  a  rocky  barrier  of  great  height,  not  dissimilar 
in  appearance  to  the  Palisadocs  between  the  Highlands 


198 


UTICA  AND  gCHEN£CTADT  RAIL  ROAD. 


and  New- York.  Passing  this,  the  carriages  soon  cross 
what  is  called  "  the  Gulf,"  on  a  bridge  composed  of  one 
arch  of  160  feet  span,  at  an  elevation  of  50  or  60  feet 
above  the  water.  Succeeding  this,  are  alternate  rocky 
excavations  and  embankments  of  great  magnitude, 
until  the  road  passes  beyond  the  precincts  of  the  village. 
Seven  miles  farther,  after  crossing  the  West  Canada 
creek,  the  road  enters  upon  what  are  called  the  German 
Flats,  which  for  richness  and  beauty  are  not  surpassed 
by  any  lands  on  the  continent  Beyond  these,  the 
country  is  less  interesting  until  reaching  within  3  or  4 
miles  ofUtica;  when  the  finely  cultivated  farms  indi- 
cate their  contiguity  to  a  populous  and  flourishing  town. 
The  approach  to  Utica  is  peculiarly  fine, — a  full  view 
of  the  city  being  had  for  some  distance  previous  to  en- 
tering it,  together  with  the  depot  of  the  company,  and 
its  buildings,  which  are  spacious  and  handsome.  The 
whole  route,  indeed,  possesses  much  interest,  exhibiting 
a  scenery  unusually  rich  and  diversified,  and  of  itself 
abundantly  attractive  to  compensate  a  tourist  in  the 
excursion. 

The  road  is  graded  for  a  double  track,  and  ^he  cen- 
tral part,  for  a  distance  of  IS  or  20  miles,  affording  an 
ample  passing  place  for  the  trains,  completed.  The  resi- 
due is  a  single  track,  with  occasional  turnouts.  The 
work  was  commenced  in  1834,  and  so  far  finished  that 
the  transportation  of  passengers  was  effected  over  the 
whole  line  on  the  2d  of  Aug.  1838.  Length  78  miles — 
cost,  including  fixtures,  engines  and  carriages,  about 
$1,600,000. 


SCHBNECTADT.      (SeO  p.  150.) 


AMSTERDAM — FONDA. 


199 


Amsterdam,  16  miles  west  of  Schenectady,  is  the 
first  village  of  any  magnitude  that  is  reached  on  the 
route.  It  is  located  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk 
river,  over  which  there  is  a  substantial  bridge.  The 
village  contains  about  150  houses,  and  has  become  a 
place  of  considerable  importance  from  its  proximity  to 
the  river  and  the  Erie  canal,  but  more  especially  so 
from  the  creek  which  passes  through  the  village,  and 
which,  within  half  a  mile,  falls  over  a  number  of  beau- 
tiful cascades,  affording  admirable  facilities  for  manu- 
facturing operations. 

About  one  mile  from  Amsterdam,  on  the  south  side 
of  the  rail  road,  is  a  stone  building,  erected  by  Col.  Guy 
Johnson,  son-in-law  of  Sir  WiUiam  Johnson,  which 
was  occupied  by  the  former  previous  to  the  revolution  ; 
and  a  mile  farther,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  is  a 
stone  building  which  was  occupied  by  Sir  John,  the  son 
of  Sir  William.  Three  miles  farther,  the  road  passes 
around  the  base  of  Tripe  Hill,  affording  a  fine  prospect 
of  the  country  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  em- 
bracing the  broad  and  beautiful  valley  of  the  Mohawk, 
the  outlet  of  the  Schoharie  creek,  the  dam  and  bridge 
across  the  same,  and  the  Erie  canal ;  from  whence  to 
Gaughnawaga,  an  old  and  unimportant  village,  is  four 
and  a  half  miles,  and  to  the  village  of 


Fonda,  half  a  mile  farther.  This  place  has  been  re- 
cently selected  as  the  site  for  the  public  buildings  and 
courts  of  the  county.  A  new  court  house,  a  first  rate 
public  house  and  several  other  buildings  have  been 


.;-pp,M, 


200 


PALATINE  BRIDGE — FORT  PLAIN. 


lately  erected;  but  the  village  is  yet  in  its  infancy.* 
The  Nose,  a  rocky  point  originally  jutting  into  the 
river,  and  which]was  deformed  to  make  room  for  the  rail 
road,  is  six  miles  farther ;  from  whence  to  > 

Palatine  Bridge  is  5  miles.  A  bridge  here  crosses 
the  Mohawk  river  to  the  village  of  Canajohakie,  from 
whence  a  rail  road  to  Catskill,  noticed  at  page  140,  has 
been  commenced. 

Fort  Plain,  a  flourishing  little  village,  is  3  miles 
west  of  Palatine  Bridge,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  A  fort,  from  which  the  place  derives  its  name, 
was  constructed  here  during  the  revolutionary  war; 


*  Johnstown,  celebrated  as  the  former  residence  of 
Sir  William  Johnson,  is  4  miles  north  of  this  place,  and 
till  recently,  was  the  capital  of  the  county.  The  court- 
house and  jail  were  built  by  Sir  William.  The  Episco- 
pal church,  also  built  by  him,  and  beneath  which  his 
remains  were  interred,  was  accidentally  destroyed  by 
fire  in  the  autumn  of  1836.  The  house,  or  what  is 
called  the  "  Hall,"  formerly  occupied  by  him,  is  about 
a  mile  from  the  village.  Attached  to  it  is  a  building 
which  was  used  by  nim  as  a  fort ;  into  which  he  had 
occasion,  at  times,  to  retreat  from  the  assaults  of  the 
Indians.  The  marks  of  tomahawks  are  still  visible  on 
the  stair-case  in  the  main  building. 

The  battle  of  Johnstown,  October,  1781,  in  which 
the  British  and  Indians  were  defeated,  was  fought  on 
the  "  Hall"  farm.  The  American  troops,  consisting  of 
between  4  and  500,  were  commanded  by  the  venerable 
Col.  Willet,  who  lately  died  at  New-York.  After  the 
defeat,  the  enemy  w^ere  pursued  by  him  to  the  Canada 
creek,  where  several  were  killed,  including  Maj.  Butler. 
Out  of  607  of  the  hostile  force  sent  on  this  expedition, 
but  220  returned  to  Canada. 


LITTLE    FALLS. 


201 


though  but  little  of  its  remains  are  now  to  be  seen. 
The  place  was  originally  settled  by  Germans,  who  suf- 
fered severely  from  the  early  Indian  wars  of  this  coun- 
try. During  the  revolution,  those  who  had  taken  ref- 
uge in  the  fort,  were  surprised  by  Capt.  Butler,  on  his 
return  from  burning  Cherry  Valley,  and  became  a  prey 
to  similar  atrocities.* 

The  East  Canada  Creek  is  passed  by  a  substantial 
bridge,  in  going  4  miles  farther  ;t  from  which  to 

Little  Falls  is  6  miles.  This  place  takes  its  name 
from  a  cataract  in  the  vicinity,  which,  in  size,  is  much 
inferior  to  the  celebrated  Cohoes,  (noticed  at  p.  163,) 
and  has,  therefore,  been  denominated  the  Little  Falls  of 
the  Mohawk.  A  continuation  of  the  chain  of  the  Cats- 
bergs  crosses  the  river  at  this  place,  and  forms  a  rough 
bed  for  the  waters  of  the  cataract,  which  pour  over  the 
rocky  fragments  in  the  wildest  confusion.  Approach- 
ing from  the  east,  a  loftly  ridge  of  mountains,  frowning 
in  grandeur  on  either  side,  conceals  the  course  of  the 
river  and  the  falls,  whose  vicinity  is  announced  only 


*  The  Sharon  Springs,  a  few  miles  south  of  Fort 
Plain,  are  becoming  a  place  of  considerable  resort. 
The  waters  are  highly  impregnated  with  sulphur,  and 
have  proved  very  useful  in  cutaneous  eruptions,  rheu- 
matism, &c. ;  and  an  elegant  public  house  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  visitants  has  been  erected. 

t  jAl^out  3  miles  west  of  the  East  Canada  creek,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  river  and  canal,  a  brick 
house  is  seen,  standing  on  elevated  ground,  which  was 
the  former  residence  of  Gen.  Herkimer.  He  received 
a  wound  in  a  skirmish  during  the  revolution,  of  which 
he  died  at  his  residence.  His  remains  repose  in  an 
adjoining  field. 


I 


■sS". 


202 


LITTLE    FALLS. 


\  ?.i 


by  the  distant  din  and  foam  of  its  waters.  For  a  con- 
siderable distance,  a  narrow  pass  only  is  allowed  for 
the  road,  river,  and  canal,  with  immense  natural  battle- 
ments of  rock  on  either  side,  affording  a  sublime  and 
interesting  spectacle.  About  half  a  mile  from  the  vil- 
lage the  rail  road  curves  to  the  left,  presenting  a  view 
of  the  falls  tumbling  with  irresistible  violence  over  a 
gradual  rocky  descent  of  about  eighty  rods.  At  the 
termination  of  the  ascent  is  situated  the  village,  con- 
taining about  200  houses  and  ISOO  inhabitants.  A 
cluster  of  buildings,  rising  between  the  rushing  waters 
of  the  Mohawk  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  rugged  cliffs 
and  eminences  on  the  other ;  the  smooth  current  of  the 
stream  above  gently  gliding  to  the  tumultuous  scene  be- 
low, and  beyond  the  distant  vale  of  the  Mohawk,  diver- 
sified with  fields,  orchards,  meadows,  and  farm  houses, 
all  contribute  to  set  off*  the  romantic  appearance  for 
which  this  place  is  so  justly  celebrated.  This  village 
derives  most  of  its  importance  from  the  facilities  for 
trade  and  commerce  afibrded  by  means  of  the  Mohawk 
river  and  the  Erie  canal.  Boats  were  formerly  trans- 
ported around  the  falls  through  a  canal  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river.  This  old  canal  contained  eight  locks, 
and  is  now  connected  with  the  Erie  canal  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river  by  means  of  an  aqueduct  184  feet  in 
length.  The  descent  of  the  Erie  canal  here,  in  the 
distance  of  one  mile,  is  40  feet,  which  is  passed  by  five 
locks. 

Travellers  will  always  find  it  interesting  to  spend 
some  time  at  this  place,  in  viewing  its  great  natural 
and  artificial  works.  The  Aqueduct  across  the  river  is 
one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  masonry  on  the  whole 


LITTLE    FALLS. 


203 


line  of  the  canal,  though  less  stupendous  than  the  locks 
at  Lockport,  and,  in  extent,  falling  considerably  short 
of  the  aqueduct  at  Rochester,  The  river  is  passed  on 
three  beautiful  arches  of  from  40  to  50  feet  in  height, 
with  flagging  on  either  side  of  the  canal,  and  a  strong 
iron  railing.  After  crossing  on  the  flagging,  the  stran- 
ger should  return  on  the  stone  bridge  west  of  the 
aqueduct;  which  being  several  feet  lower,  aflfords  a 
fine  view  of  the  arches,  and  of  the  extensive  basin  in 
the  river  immediately  beneath  the  centre  arch,  formed, 
doubtless,  by  the  action  of  round  stones  set  in  motion 
by  the  water. 

The  Erie  canal,  which  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river,  winds  its  way  for  some  distance  along  the  side  of 
a  bold  and  lofty  mountain,  the  channel  resting  on  a 
wall  nearly  30  feet  high,  constructed  from  the  bed  of 
the  river  at  great  expense.  The  view  afforded  of  moun- 
tain  scenery  on  cither  side,  with  a  bare  passage  for  the 
dashing  waters  of  the  Mohawk  between,  is  highly  in- 
teresting and  sublime.    Whichever  way  the  eye  is 
turned,  it  rests  on  huge  masses  of  granite  and  lime- 
stone, piled  in  heaps.    These  rocks  in  some  places  rise 
to  a  great  height,  almost  perpendicular,  presenting  a 
bleak  dark  surface,  unbleached  by  the  thousand  storms 
which  have  beat  upon  them ;  others  present  a  rugged 
and  uneven  face,  crowned  and  overhung  by  dark  ever- 
greens, dipping  their  verdure  into  the  foaming  torrent 
below ;  the  fissures  between  others  of  these  huge  piles 
produce  hickory,  maple  and  other  trees,  which  hang 
from  them,  and  with  their  sombre  shadow  deepen  the 
gloomy  darkness  of  the  rocks  from  which  they  spring ; 
whilst  the  scanty  soil  upon  others  gives  life  t 


penu- 


82 


204 


HERKIMER. 


rious  nourishment  to  dwarf  oaks  and  vegetation  pecu- 
liar to  similar  inhospitable  regions.  In  this  8ceno,where 
the  rude  but  magnificent  works  of  nature  are  so  pro- 
fusely displayed,  the  imagination  is  overpowered,  in 
their  sublimity,  and  the  proudest  works  of  man,  and 
man  himself,  lose  their  importance.  Even  the  canal, 
cut  upon  the  mighty  and  enduring  precipice — the  road 
entrenched  upon  the  mountain  side,  and  the  substantial 
locks  and  gales — all  sink  into  comparative  insignif- 
icance under  the  mighty  shadows  of  the  everlasting 
hills. 

The  road,  after  leaving  Little  Falls  follows  the  bank 
of  the  river,  in  full  view  of  the  rich  alluvial  vale  called 
the  Herkimer  and  German  Flats.  This  region,  now 
glowing  in  all  the  beauty  of  successful  cultivation,  was 
once  the  theatre  of  the  most  sanguinary  warfare.  Du- 
ring the  French  and  revolutionary  wars,  it  was  the 
scene  of  many  barbarous  incursions  of  the  whites  as 
well  as  savages.  It  was  invaded  by  the  French  after 
the  capture  of  Fort  Oswego  in  1756,  and  in  1757  the 
settlements  were  desolated  by  fire  and  sword.  In  the 
centre  of  these  flats  is  situated  the  village  of 


Herkimer,  7  miles  from  Little  Falls.  West  Canada 
creek,  on  which  are  the  celebrated  Trenton  Falls,  no- 
ticed in  subsequent  pages,  enters  the  Mohawk  river 
about  half  a  mile  east  of  the  village,  and  is  passed  near 
its  mouth  by  a  well  constructed  bridge.  The  village  is 
principally  built  on  two  parallel  streets.  It  contains 
a  handsome  court  house  and  jail,  about  130  dwel- 
ling houses,  and  1000  inhabitants.  A  dam  has  been 
thrown  across  the  "West  Canada  creek  above  Herki- 


# 


UTICA. 


205 


mer,  and  a  canal  cut  therefrom  to  the  river,  which  is 
designed  for  hydraulic  purposes.  Between  Herkimer 
and  Ulica,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  is  the  village 
of  Frankfort,  about  5  miles  from  the  former  and  9 
from  the  latter  place.  The  country  after  leaving  Her- 
kimer is  quite  level,  and  remarkably  fertile,  though  not 
in  a  hifih  state  of  cultivation. 


UTlCA. 

This  flourishing  place  is  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Mohawk  river,  and  occupies  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schuy- 
ler, where,  a  garrison  v/as  kept  previous  to  the  revolu- 
tion. Some  remains  of  this  fort  are  still  to  be  seen  be- 
tween the  eastern  extremity  of  Main  street  and  the  riv- 
er. A  few  Germans  were  settled  here  previous  to  the 
revolutionary  war ;  but  a  part  were  captured  by  the  In- 
dians and  the  remnant  sought  a  place  of  more  security. 
The  first  permanent  settler  established  himself  about  4 
miles  west  of  Fort  Schuyler  in  1784.  Five  years  after- 
wards a  few  families  established  themselves  on  the 
site  of  the  present  town.  In  1708,  a  village  charter 
•was  granted  ;  and  in  1832,  the  place  was  incorporated 
into  a  city.  In  1813,  it  contained  1700  inhabitants  ;  in 
181G,  £823;  in  1820,2972;  in  1823,  4017;  in  1826, 
6040  ;  in  1823,  74G0 ;  in  1S30,  8323 ;  and  in  1835,  about 
9500.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  of  good 
width,  and  mostly  paved.  Genesee  street,  in  particular, 
is  peculiarly  pleasant,  and  for  the  most  part  adorned 
with  elegant  stores  and  dwelHngs. 

There  are  numerous  literary,  benevolent  and  religious 
institutions  in  this  place  ;  among  which  are  16  church- 
es, a  lyceum,  an  academy,  a  gymnasium,  high  school, 


S06 


TRENTON   FALLS. 


Female  Institute,  museum,  and  an  institution  called  the 
Young  Men*8  Association,  in  which  there  is  a  library 
and  reading  room,  which  are  gratuitously  opened  for 
the  use  of  strangers.  There  are  also  3  banks,  an  in< 
Burance  company,  and  from  6  to  8  newspaper  estab- 
lishments. 

The  principal  Hotels,  which  are  in  Genesee  street, 
are  Bagg's,  near  the  termination  of  the  rail  road ;  the 
National  Hotel,  and  the  Canal  Coffee  House,  near  the 
canal ;  and  the  City  Hotel  and  Franklin  House,  farther 
south. 

The  lands  adjoining  Utica  are  richly  cultivated,  pre- 
senting a  succession  of  beautiful  farms  and  country 
seats.  There  are  also  various  objects  of  attraction  in 
the  vicinity,  a  visit  to  which  may  be  ranked  among  the 
pleasures  of  an  excursion  to  the  west.  Of  these  are 
Trenton  Falls,  at  the  north ;  and  Whitesborough,  the 
York  Mills,  Clinton  Village  containing  Hamilton  col- 
lege, and  Rome,  all  within  a  few  miles  in  a  westerly 
direction. 

Two  rail  roads  are  now  constructing  from  the  city 
westwardly — one  to  Syracuse,  about  60  miles,  and  the 
other  to  Oswego,  on  Lake  Ontario,  about  75  miles  dis- 
tant 


Trbnton  Falls  are  15  miles  from  the  city,  and  a 
visit  thither  generally  occupies  a  day.  They  are  on 
the  West  Canada  creek,  about  22  miles  from  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Mohawk  river  at  Herkimer. 

The  creek  in  its  way  from  the  summit  of  the  high- 
lands of  Black  river  to  its  lower  valley,  crosses  a  ridge 
of  limestone  4  or  5  miles  in  breadth,  stretching  through 


TRENTON    FALLS. 


807 


the  country  from  the  Mohawk  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Its  course  over  this  ridge  by  its  tortuous  bed  is  6  or  7 
miles,  2J  of  which  are  above  the  falls.  The  waters, 
soon  after  reaching  the  limestone,  move  with  acceler- 
ated strides  over  the  naked  rocks  to  the  head  of  the  up- 
per fall,  where  they  are  precipitated  18  or  20  feet  down 
an  abrupt  ledge  into  a  spacious  basin.  The  whole  de- 
scent to  the  head  of  this  fail  in  the  last  2  miles  is  com- 
puted at  60  feet.  Hero  a  deep  and  winding  ravine  be- 
gins, which  extends  down  the  stream  more  than  9 
miles.  Its  average  depth  is  estimated  at  100  feet,  and 
its  average  breadth  at  the  top,  200.  The  sides  and 
bottom  consist  of  limestone  disposed  in  horizontal  lay- 
ers, which  abound  with  organic  remains.  The  sides 
are  shelving,  perpendicular  and  overhanging  ;  and 
some  of  the  trees  that  have  taken  root  in  the  fissures  of 
the  rocks  are  pendant  over  the  abyss,  where  they  form 
the  most  fanciful  appearances  imaginable.  The  coun- 
try adjoining  is  mostly  covered  with  forest  trees,  so  that 
no  appearance  of  the  ravine  is  visible  until  its  verge  is 
reached.  Of  the  six  falls,  that  above  the  high  bridge 
on  the  Black  river  road  is  called  the  Upper ;  the  second, 
a  mile  below,  the  Cascades ;  the  third,  a  little  lower 
down,  the  Mill-dam;  the  fourth,  40  rods  farther,  the 
High  Falls;  the  fifth,  about  70  rods  further,  Sher- 
man's ;  and  the  sixlh,  at  the  termination  of  the  ravine, 
Conrad's  Fall.  All  these  are  formed  by  solid  reefs  rf 
rocks  which  cress  the  bed  of  the  stream. 

The  water  at  the  Upper  Fall  descends  18  or  20  feet 
perpendicularly.  Below,  there  is  a  spci^-lous  basin, 
out  of  which  the  stream  issues  in  a  diminished  bed  in- 
to the  ravine,  the  entrance  of  which  is  between  lofty 


-!^-, 


803 


TRENTON   FALLS. 


barriers  of  rocks.  This  fall,  when  viewed  from  the 
bridge,  or  from  the  high  ground  west  of  the  crock,  has 
a  fine  appearance. 

At  the  Cascades,  consisting  of  2  pitches,  with  in- 
tervening rapids,  the  water  falls  18  feet.  The  bed  of 
the  stream  is  here  contracted,  and  the  sides  serrated, 
the  banks  of  the  ravine  rising  with  abruptness  almost 
directly  in  the  rear. 

The  Mill-dam  Fall,  which  is  the  second  within  the 
ravine,  has  an  abrupt  descent  of  14  feet,  the  stream  be- 
ing about  60  yards  broad  at  the  break. 

Of  the  High  Falls,  which  are  three  in  number,  the 
first  has  a  perpendicular  descent  of 48  feet;  in  floods 
the  water  covers  the  whole  break  and  descends  in  one 
sheet ;  but  at  other  times,  mostly  in  two  grooves  at  the 
west  side  of  the  fall.  The  second  has  a  descent  of 
about  11  feet ;  the  third  37  feet ;  and  the  three,  includ- 
ing the  slopes  and  pitches,  109  feet.  In  fro,':hets  and 
floods,  the  entire  bed  at  the  High  Falls  is  covered  M'ith 
water  of  a  milk  white  color,  and  the  spray  which  at 
such  times  ascends  in  pillars  towards  the  sky,  when 
acted  upon  by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  exliibits  the  rainbow 
in  all  its  brilliant  oolors. 

Sherman's  Fall  descends  about  33  feet  when  the 
stream  is  low,  and  37  when  high.  In  droughts,  the 
water  pitches  down  at  the  west  side. 

The  last  fall,  which  is  at  Conrad's  mills,  at  the  foot 
of  the  ravine,  is  6  feet. 

Besides  the  falls,  thoro  are  several  raceways  or 
chutes,  from  10  to  20  .v  's  long,  through  which  the 
waters  pass  with  great  :tK!.  iity.  The  whole  depres* 
flion  of  the  stream  from  Hho  ^o^j  o;  ihe  Upuei  Fall  above 


TRENTON    FALLS. 


209 


tlio  high  hridgo  to  tho  foot  of  Conrad's,  is  312  foet ; 
and  if  wo  add  tho  descent  above  the  Upper  Fall,  which 
is  computed  to  bo  60  foet,  and  that  below  Conrad's  fall 
in  half  a  inilo,  which  is  cptiinatrd  at  15  feet,  we  shall 
iind  that  tho  entiro  den  :.<■  'iv\  in  less  than  5  miles,  is 
387  feet. 

Tho  falls,  race'-ayr  and  rapids,  and,  indeed,  the 
whole  bed  wi0.in  tho  ruvino,  exhibit  very  diiierent  ap- 
pearances -xi  'liiijrent  times.  These  are  occasioned  by 
tho  elevations  and  depressions  of  the  stream.  In  floods, 
the  ^vholc  is  one  tremendous  rapid,  with  four  cataracts 
and  several  chutes. 

The  best  time  to  visit  these  fulls  is  when  the  stream 
is  low,  because  then  there  is  no  inconvenience  or  diffi- 
culty in  ascending  the  ravine  from  the  foot  of  Sher- 
man's stairway  to  the  head  of  the  upper  raceway. 
Few  persons  who  visit  them  have  resolution  to  ascend 
tho  ravine  from  tho  stairway  to  the  basin  at  the  upper 
fall.    This,  however,  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  because 
the  lofty  rocky  barriers  which  constitute  the  sides  of 
the  ravine  advance  to  the  water's  edge  in  many  places, 
and  terminate  in  frightful  projections,  which  cannot  be 
passed  without  the  most  imminent  danger.    Some  of 
these  difficulties,  however,  have  been  obviated  by  blast- 
jio  « vmy  portions  of  tho  rocks  and  putting  up  chains ; 
}<:  u     .sons  now  go  up  to  the  upper  raceway  without 
iiazard. 

A  fme  hotel  is  kept  near  the  falls,  from  whence  a 
pathway  leads  to  the  stairway,  which  descends  to  the 
bottom  of  the  ravine,  and  another  leads  up  to  the  High 
Falls.  The  former  is  usually  pr«  ferred.  On  reaching 
the  strand,  at  the  foot  of  the  stairway,  you  proceed  up 


1^  L.'r..!.^  w>.-i-.:  j*iA;;_ 


310 


TRENTON   FALLS. 


the  Btreom  at  first  upon  the  strand,  and  then  by  a  nar- 
row winding  foot  path  to  Sherman's  fall.  From  thence 
you  advance  to  the  High  Falls,  a  part  of  the  way  being 
overhung  by  large  jutting  rocks  which  menace  you 
with  destruction.  From  the  head  of  the  High  Falls  to 
the  uppper  end  of  the  raceway  above  the  Cascades,  the 
way  is  easy  when  the  stream  is  low,  but  from  thence 
upwardly  it  is  difficult  and  dangerous. 

While  you  are  passing  along  the  narrow  and  sinu- 
ous path  leading  by  the  projections,  and  by  the  brinks 
of  headlong  precipices,  you  tremble  with  reverential 
awe,  when  you  consider  that  one  false  step  might  pre- 
cipitate you  into  the  resistless  torrent  below,  and  in  an 
instant  consign  you  to  a  watery  grave.  You  see  what 
a  feeble  creature  man  is,  and  are  forcibly  impressed 
with  ideas  of  the  wisdom  and  power  of  that  mighty  Be- 
ing who  commanded  the  earth  to  emerge  from  the  deep 
and  the  waters  to  flow. 

The  organic  remains  arc  found  enveloped  in  the 
rocks  along  the  bottom  and  lower  parts  of  the  ravine, 
and  are  easily  divisible.  They  lie  flat  in  or  between 
the  lamince,  their  contours  and  component  parts  usual- 
ly being  little  distorted  from  their  original  shape  and 
dimensions.  Sometimes  there  is  a  defect  occasioned  in 
the  transition  from  the  animal  to  the  stony  or  fossil 
state ;  but,  in  most  instances,  all  the  parts  are  so  com- 
pletely defined,  that  not  only  the  order  but  the  genera 
and  specieg  may  be  recognized.  Their  exteriors  are 
commonly  glossy,  often  very  smooth,  and  ordinarily  of 
a  dark  color,  being  transformed  into  stone,  and  consti- 
tuting integral  parts  of  the  rocks  which  envelope  them. 
From  a  careful  examination  of  certain  of  these  remains, 


;'\;wr'?»^T::7rTi?^^.j-i---<  _. --^ 


STAGE    ROUTE — VERNON. 


211 


and  their  positions,  we  are  led  to  believe  that  their  pro- 
totypes lived  and  died  on  the  spot,  and  that  the  rocks 
in  which  they  are  entombed  are  of  posterior  formation. 

Ladies  visiting  the  Falls,  should  be  furnished  with 
calf  skin  shoes  or  bootees.  They  not  only  owe  it  to 
their  health  to  be  thus  provided,  but  the  best  pair  of 
cloth  shoes  will  be  ruined  by  a  single  excursion  over 
these  rocks. 

Returning  to  Utica,  the  traveller,  in  pursuing  a  jour- 
ney to  the  west  by  stage,  first  reaches  the  pleasant 
village  of 

New-Hartford,  4  miles  from  Utica,  containing 
about  150  dwellings  and  stores,  and  three  churches,  be- 
sides a  number  of  mills  and  manufactories,  located  on 
the  Sadaquada  creek.  The  land  between  Utica  and 
New-Hartford  is  level  and  of  an  excellent  quaUty,  and 
resembles,  with  its  neat  and  regular  enclosures,  an  ex- 
tensive and  highly  cultivated  garden.  There  are  in  the 
vicinity  many  country  residences,  constructed  and  im- 
proved with  much  taste  and  elegance. 

One  mile  from  New-Hartford,  a  tolerably  good  view 
of  Hamilton  college,  3  or  4  miles  distant  at  the  S.  W. 
is  obtained ;  but  on  ascending  a  more  elevated  posi- 
tion one  mile  farther,  the  prospect  of  the  college  and 
several  adjoining  buildings,  is  very  distinct  and  beau- 
itful. 

Manchester  is  5  miles  from  New-Hartford;  and 
the  country  between  the  two  villages  exhibits  some  of 
the  most  highly  cultivated  and  delightful  farms  in  the 
state. 

Vernon,  8  miles  from  Manchester,  is  a  flourishing 


212 


STAGE   ROUTE — CHITTENINGO. 


^  town  of  some  magnitude.    It  contains  two  churches,  a 

number  of  mills  and  a  glass  factory. 

Oneida  Castle,  5  miles  from  Vernon,  is  situated 
on  the  Oneida  creek,  within  what  was  formerly  the 
'*  Oneida  Reservation.    Here  was  a  considerable  settle- 

ment, possesed  by  the  Oneida  and  Tuscarora  Indi- 
ans ;  most  of  whom  have  removed  to  the  country  west 
of  the  Michigan  lake.  This  tribe  entered  the  service 
of  the  state,  as  volunteers,  during  the  late  war. 

The  lands  in  this  reservation  while  possessed  by  the 
Indians  were  but  indifferently  cultivated,  and  assumed 
a  miserable  aspect  in  comparison  with  the  rich  and 
highly  impoved  farms  on  either  side.  But  they  are 
now  yielding  to  the  culture  of  the  whites,  and  will  ulti- 
mately present  a  succession  of  beautiful  and  luxuriant 
farms.  In  passing  over  an  elevated  tract,  a  chain  of 
lofty  mountains  is  seen  skirting  the  horizon,  at  the 
north,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  extend ;  between  which 
and  the  tract  in  question,  are  seen  immense  and  appa- 
rently  impenetrable  forests. 

Lenox,  a  small  village,  is  3  miles  from  Oneida  Gas* 
tie.  One  mile  farther  the  flourishing  village  of  Canas- 
TOTA  is  seen  about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  turnpike 
on  an  extensive  plain  below,  with  the  Erie  canal  pass- 
ing through  it. 

CtuALiTT  Hill,  a  neat  httle  village  on  a  pleasant 
eminence,  is  3  miles  from  Lenox ;  and  5  miles  farther 
is  the  village  of 

Chitteningo,  situated  on  a  creek  of  that  name,  and 
from  which  a  feeder,  \jt  mile  long,  is  constructed  to  the 


■'■:4"-r 


•V" 


;as> 

lAS- 

iss- 

[ant 
Iher 


ind 
the 


STAGE   ROUTE--MANLIUS. 


213 


canal.  The  village  is  bounded  by  very  lofty  hills,  and 
cannot  be  considered  a  happy  location,  except  for  man- 
ufacturing purposes.  Gypsum  is  here  found  in  great 
quantities  ;  also  numerous  petrifactions,  specimens  of 
which  are  in  most  of  the  mineralogical  cabinets  in  the 
Union.  These  petrifactions  are  near  the  village  at  the 
foot  of  a  hill,  and  consist  of  the  trunk  of  a  tree  and 
scattered  fragments,  the  woody  structure  of  which  in 
most  cases,  is  remarkably  perfect,  and  bearing  a  strong 
resemblance  to  the  original.  Various  springs  of  wa- 
ter issue  from  the  sides  of  the  hill,  which  exhibit  nu- 
merous incrustations  (calcareous  tufa)  along  its  slope 
and  in  the  vale  below.  To  the  properties  of  these  wa- 
ters may  be  attributed  the  formation  of  these  incrusta- 
tions and  petrifactions. 

At  Chitteningo,  the  road  diverges,  forming  two  prom- 
inent routes  to  Auburn  ;  one  passing  through  the  vil- 
lages of  Manlius,  Onondaga  Hollow,  Onondaga 
Hill,  Marcellus  and  Skaneateles,  and  the  other 
passing  through  the  village  of  Syracuse,  noticed  in  the 
canal  route.  The  first  mentioned  route,  though  over  a 
less  even  country,  is  generally  preferred,  if  the  tourist 
designs  to  return  by  way  of  the  canal,  and  thus  take 
Syracuse  in  his  excursion.  Four  miles  from  Chitten- 
ingo, on  the  road  to  Manlius,  is  an  eminence  from 
which  a  beautiful  prospect  is  obtained  of  a  part  of  Onei- 
da Lake  and  a  wide  extent  of  hilly  country  beyond, 
Onondaga  Lake,  and  the  village  of  Onondaga  Hill,  15 
miles  distant.  Four  miles  further  is  the  flourishing 
village  of 

Manlius,  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Limestone 
creek,  containing  about  150  houses,  Z  churches,  2  cot- 


214 


STAGE   ROUTE— MARCELLUS, 


ton  factories,  mills,  &c.  There  are  in  the  vicinity  two 
considerable  falls,  the  principal  of  which  is  100  feet  in 
height. 

Jamesville  is  6  miles  from'  Manlius.  Green  Pond 
in  this  vicinity  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  water  is  200 
feet  deep,  and  of  a  deep  green  color,  emitting  a  strong 
smell  of  sulphur.  The  surface  of  the  pond  is  between 
100  and  200  feet  below  the  level  of  its  shores,  which 
are  precipitous  and  rocky.  Four  miles  farther  is  the 
village  of 

Onondaga  Hollow,  extending  1  mile  across  a  deep 
but  beautiful  valley,  through  which  the  Onondaga  creek 
passes.  The  village  contains  an  academy,  church,  &c.; 
but  its  business  has  declined  since  the  opening  of  the 
canal,  and  the  springing  up  of  the  village  of  Syracuse, 
which  is  4  miles  distant.  Three  miles  south  of  Onon- 
daga Hollow  is  a  considerable  settlement  of  Onondaga 
Indians,  where  once  was  held  the  grand  councils  of  tho 
Six  Nations. 

Onondaga  Hill,  2  miles  farther,  is  pleasantly  situa- 
ted on  very  high  ground,  with  a  commanding  view  of 
the  country  to  the  north  and  east  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, embracing  within  the  prospect  the  Onondaga 
Lake  and  the  villages  of  Syracuse,  Salina  and  Liver- 
pool. 

Marcellus,  8  miles  from  Onondaga  Hill,  is  a  neat 
village  of  70  or  80  houses,  situated  in  tho  valley  of  the 
Otisco  creek.  Two  miles  north  arc  falls  of  some  60  or 
70  feet  affording  facilities  for  a  variety  of  manufactories ; 
near  which,  water  lime  or  cement  is  found  in  inexhaust- 


'tho 


les; 
ist- 


STAGE  ROUTE — SKAMEATELES. 


215 


ible  quantities.  There  is  also  lying  on  the  bank  of  the 
creek  at  this  place  a  petrified  tree  of  large  dimensions, 
partly  covered  with  limestone. 

Skaneateles,  6  miles  from  Marcellus,  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  the  Skaneateles  Lake,  and  is  a  beautiful 
thriving  village,  containing  about  2000  inhabitants,  4 
churches  and  a  flourishing  academy,  a  variety  of  man- 
ufactories, mills  and  many  elegant  private  dvi^ellings. 
It  enjoys  a  commanding  view  of  the  lake  for  6  or  3 
miles  above  and  of  the  surrounding  country,  which  ri- 
ses in  a  gentle  acclivity  from  the  water  100  feet  or  more 
in  the  course  of  a  mile,  presenting  a  range  of  neat  white 
farm  houses  on  the  summit,  and  a  slope  of  highly  cul- 
tivated country  towards  the  lake  on  each  side.    The 
lake,  which  is  16  miles  long  and  from  half  a  mile  to 
two  miles  in  width,  abounds  with  fine  trout  and  other 
fish.    The  water  is  deep  and  remarkably  pure,  v/ith  a 
gravelly  bottom  and  bold  shorea.    The  prospect  from 
the  lake  is  highly  interesting,  particularly  towards  its 
head,  where  the  country  rises  abruptly  several  hundred 
feet,  presenting  a  miniature  picture  of  mountain  scene- 
ry.   Under  these  bluffs  on  the  east  side  and  on  a  level 
with  the  water  are  found  large  quantities  of  petrifac- 
tionsjthe  cornu  ammonite,imbodded  in  a  stratum  of  slate. 
Three  miles  north  of  the  village,  the  Skaneateles  creek 
falls  over  a  bed  of  rocks,  about  70  feet  in  a  short  dis- 
tance ;  but  in  low  water,  the  whole  is  lost  or  sinks 
among  the  rocks,  and  only  a  part  of  it  again  appears  at 
a  distance  of  half  a  mile  below,  presenting  the  novel 
spectacle  of  a  river  much  larger  at  its  fountain  than  at 
its  moutli.    A  rail  road  4|  miles  long,  is  about  being 
t2 


21G 


STAUTC   nOUTIC — AUIIUIIN. 


constmctctl  from  llio  villiiiCo  to  connoct  willi  tl'O  Au- 
burn nnd  SyriKMiso  mil  roiul.  Seven  niiloH  (Vorn  Skaii- 
oatolcs  stuiuls  tijo  llouritHliing  villugo  of 


«* 


AunuRN.  It  is  sitnated  on  tlio  Owasco  crock,  two 
milos  below  ifH  outlet  IVoni  the  lake  of  the  yiwno  name. 
TluH  villui^e  owefl  nnieh  of  its  iinporlaucu  to  tlie  ntuner- 
ous  mills  and  niarniiaetoiies  for  wiiieh  il.s  location  is 
extremely  eligible  It  contains  ubout  850  bonseH  and 
5500  inhabifants,  Amou*:;'  other  public  buildiii^ri<  tbero 
arc  neven  churches,  an  academy,  nniseum,tt  court  houso 
nud  jjaol,  and  a  j>rison  cr(  cted  lor  convicts  at  tho  ex- 
pense of  tho  stale.  There  has  also  been  ctitablibbcd 
u  theological  seminary,  Avhich  is  patronized  exclusively 
by  tho  Presbyti^riun  denonunalion,  and  is  ut  present 
tho  only  one  of  tho  kind  in  the  state.  Many  circum- 
stances combine  to  render  this  place  an  nnreeable  resi- 
tlenco  to  the  man  of  taste  or  business.  The  villago  in 
handsomely  built,  and  increases  annually  in  poi)ulalion 
nnd  wealth.  It  is  situated  7  miles  from  Wked's 
Pout,  on  the  canal,  to  which  place  sti\<;;cs  run  daily,  for 
the  accommodation  of  passengers  wishing  to  tako 
packet  boats  for  the  west  or  east. 

The  principal  public  houses  arc  the  American  Hotel, 
Western  Exchange  and  Bank  Coflec  House. 

The  State  Prison,  at  Auburn,  is  considered  one  of 
the  best  in  the  Union.  It  was  commenced  in  181G,  and 
is  constructed  upon  the  plan  of  a  hollow  square,  en- 
closed by  a  wall  2000  feet  in  extent,  being  500  feet  on 
each  side.  The  front  of  the  prison,  including  the  keep- 
er's dwelling,  is  about  300  feet,  and  the  two  wings  ex- 
tending west,  are  240  feet  each.    The  north  wing  con- 


STAGE   nOnTE — AUBUIIN. 


217 


I 


Inins  solitary  ccIIh  nnd  a  lioHpilal,  nnd  the  sonlli  win;:» 
irt  (livldofl  prinfipnlly  into  cpIIh.  lifitvvcon  llio  Ivvo 
winjj:H  is  a  ^^tuhh  plot  >vitU  <ii'av(;l  wallu; ;  to  tlio  woHt 
of  whir.li  is  the  interior  yard,  covcrcrl  with  ^^nivfl, 
contuiiiin;]^  nncrvoirH  of  water,  and  Horroundod  wilU 
workaljops.  Theno  .sIi(;[»h,  hf;si(h;H  tlio  paint  rdiop, 
form  a  conlinnod  ranjfe  oI'lJOO  feet ;  and  arc;  vvoll  li;,dit- 
cd  hy  window.^  in  tho  sides  and  fi-oin  Iho  roof.  Tiicy 
oro  huili  of  brick,  and  arc  well  occurcd  ngainfit,  lire. 
Tlio  oilier  wallf,  against  wiiich  the  whopa  are  built,  arc 
35  feet  bi;!^di  on  the  iriKi(U.',  and  tho  other  walln  about 
20.  They  are  four  fe-^t  thick,  and  tho  walls  of  the  pris- 
on 3  feet.  The  expense  of  the  wholn,  without  includ- 
infif  the  labor  of  the  convicta  employed,  was  above  $300,- 
000.  The  prison  being  erected  on  the  bank  of  the 
Owasco,  water  power  is  applied  in  many  cascH,  to  great 
advantage,  in  propelling  macliincry. 

The  most  interesting  period  for  witnessing  the  pris- 
oners is  early  in  the  morning,  from  the  time  they  arc 
brought  forth  to  labor  till  after  breakfast.  The  Ppec- 
tator  will  then  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of 
tho  prominent  features  of  the  order,  regularity  and 
system  with  which  every  thing  is  conducted.  He  will 
admire  the  precision  with  which  the  rulc3  arc  execu- 
ted, without  the  least  confusion,  noise,  or  even  com- 
mand. Tho  convicts  silently  marching  to  and  from 
their  rest,  rncals  and  labor,  at  precise  times,  moving  in 
separate  corps,  in  single  tile,  with  a  slow  lock  step, 
erect  posture,  keeping  exact  time,  with  their  faces  in- 
clined towards  their  keepers,  (that  they  may  detect  con- 
versation, of  which  none  is  ever  permitted,)  all  give  to 
the  spectator  somewhat  similar  feelings  to  those  excited 


S18 


STAGE  ROUTE — CAYUGA. 


!     « 


by  a  military  fiinoral ;  and  to  tlio  convicts,  iinproHsions 
nutciitiruly  ilisuiiuiliir  to  tlioso  ufculptitM  wlioii  march- 
ing to  tlio  jjrnlluws.  Tiio  samn  ttilonce,  soloinuity  and 
order,  iu  a  good  degree,  pervades  every  businosH  and 
department. 

Id  addition  to  divino  aervico  in  the  chapel  of  tl»o  pris- 
on every  Sabbatii,  a  Sunday  school  bus  been  establish- 
ed, superintended  by  the  students  of  the  theuIo;>ical 
seminary,  which  has  been  attended  with  very  bcuelicial 
crtects. 

So  admirable  has  been  tho  discipline  of  this  prison, 
that  a  large  proportion  of  tho  convicts  discharged  hovo 
become  honest,  industrious  men,  and  none  are  known 
to  havo  become  corrupted  or  made  worse. 

Tho  Auburn  and  Syracuse  Rail  Road  commences 
at  this  place,  and  extends  to  Syracuse,  a  distance  of  22 
miles.  It  will  probably  bo  linishcd  tho  present  season, 
(1837.) 

Cayuga,  7  miles  west  of  Auburn,  is  a  small  village; 
but  aflbrds  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  Cayuga  lake, 
and  tlie  bridge  extending  across,  which  is  one  mile  and 
eight  rods  long,  and  situate  within  2  miles  of  the  outlet. 
This  lake  is  33  miles  in  length,  and  is  generally  from 
1  to  2  miles  in  breadth.  The  water  is  shallow,  but 
of  suflicicnt  depth  for  a  good  sized  steam-boat,  which 
plies  daily  between  the  bridge  and  Ithica,  a  beautiful 
and  thriving  village,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  36  miles 
distant.  Travellers  designing  to  take  an  excursion  on 
this  lake  to  Ithica,  should  pay  for  stage  fare  no  farther 
tlian  the  Cayuga  Bridge.  From  this  point  they  can 
take  the  steam-boat  at  1  o'clock  P.  M.  which  reaches 


STAGE  ROUTE — WATKllI.OO. 


219 


Ithica  in  bctwnrn  tliroo  nnd  foiirlioura;  wlicrn  tlio  best 
oraccoinmodalioiiH  will  ho  found  at  ono  of  Iho  luriroHt 
pulilic  hoUHPH  in  liie  Mtalc.  rassin<jr  tlic  ni«rlit  at  Ithica, 
Iho  daily  Hta;:^!!  can  h(!  taken  llic  next  morning,  after 
break  fust,  for  iJath,  at  tho  head  of  tho  HcMieca  lake, 
distant  about  22  jnilen,  which  roaches  tho  latter  ploco 
in  tiuic  for  tho  ntoain-hoat  which  leaves  at  noon  for 
(Geneva,  noticed  in  a  Hul»HC([>ient  page;  and  thus  tho 
tonr  ofhotli  lakcH  be  performed,  and  a  full  view  of  their 
rich  scenery  had  in  the  short  s()ace  of  thirty  houia. 

Sknkca  Falls,  four  miles  west  of  Cayuga,  is  a  flour- 
ishintif  villa*:e,  located  on  the  hanks  of  the  Seneca  river, 
M'hich  here  fulls  4C  feet,  anordin<^  important  manufac- 
turin(j  facilities.  The  village  has  attained  a  very  rapid 
growth  within  tho  last  5  or  G  years.  It  contained  in 
I83G,  450  dwcllin*;  houses,  5  churches,  a  number  of 
flouring  mills,  and  about  4000  inhabitants.  In  addition 
to  its  manufacturing  privileges,  a  canal  extends  to  the 
Erie  canal  at  Lakciport,  20  miles  distant,  which,  con- 
nected with  the  river  at  the  village,  affords  an  uninter- 
rupted water  communication  from  Geneva  to  the  west- 
ern likes  and  the  ocean.  Four  miles  farther,  is  the 
handsome  village  of 


Waterloo,  a  half  shire  town  in  Seneca  count3\  It 
contains  about  300  houses,  a  court  house,  jail,  and  2 
printing  oflices.  The  village  is  principally  situate  on 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Seneca  outlet ;  which  here 
propels  several  mills.  Tho  commencement  of  this  vil- 
lage was  in  1S16  ;  since  which  it  has  become  a  place  of 
very  conGidcrablc  importance ;  though  it  is  probably 


220 


STAGE   ROUTE — GENEVA. 


destined  to  yield  in  magnitude  and  business  to  its  rival 
village  at  Seneca  Falls.    From  Waterloo  to 

Geneva,  7  miles  distant,  the  route  is  delightful,  em- 
bracing (a  part  of  the  vi'ay)  a  charming  rido  around  the 
north  end  of  the  Seneca  lake,  which  is  here  about  two 
miles  wide.    The  village  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  in 
the  state  ;  and,  with  its  beautiful  scenery,  cannot  fail 
of  caUing  forth  the  admiration  of  every  visitant.    It  is 
situate  on  the  western  margin  of  the  lake,  the  bank  of 
which  being  lofty,  affords  an  enchanting  view  of  one  of 
the  purest  sheets  of  water  in  America.    The  number  of 
private  and  public  buildings  in  the  place  is  about  600, 
many  of  which  are  very  handsome,  and  the  population 
about  3000.     Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  col- 
leg-e,  an  academy,  8  churches  and  a  bank.   The  college 
is  located  on  an  eminence  south  of  the  village,  on  the 
margin  of  the  lake,  in  the  vicinity  of  several  country 
seats,  enjoying  an  unusual  richness  of  prospect,  with 
an  almost  constant  breeze  from  the  water.    The  lake 
is  about  35  miles  long,  and  from  3  to  4  miles  wide.    It 
abounds  with  salmon,  trout  and  other  fish,  and  is  never 
closed  with  ice.    A  steam-boat  runs  daily  from  Geneva 
to  Jeffersonville,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  leaving  the 
former  place  at  7  A.M.,  and  returning  at  evening.* 

*  A  passage  on  the  lake  is  peculiarly  delightful  and 
interesting.  Leaving  Geneva  with  its  neat  stores,  and 
elegant  dwelhn^s,  its  luxuriant  hanging  gardens,  and 
the  glittering  spires  of  its  churches  and  college,  the  eye 
takes  in  a  southern  water  view  not  surpassed  in  any 
part  of  this  world  of  inland  seas.  The  first  village  of 
any  note  on  the  eastern  shore  is  Ovid,  18  miles  from 
Geneva.    The  lofty  eminence  on  which  it  stands,  and 


th 


STAGE    ROUTE — GENEVA. 


221 


I 


The  Genesee  turnpike  leads  through  Geneva,  and  the 
Eric  canal  passes  about  12  miles  to  the  north  of  it ;  with 
which  there  is  a  water  communication,  by  means  of 
the  outlet  of  the  Seneca  lake  and  a  lateral  canal,  no- 
ticed at  p.  232. 

the  rich  and  highly  cultivated  farms  in  its  vicinity,  ren- 
der it  a  most  conspicuous  and  interesting  object.  Di- 
rectly opposite  to  Ovid  is  Dresden,  one  of  the  most 
thriving  villages  in  Yates  county.  It  is  situated  on  the 
outlet  ef  Crooked  Lake,  and  extends  nearly  a  mile  back, 
of  the  shore.  Immediately  south  of  Dresden,  is  the 
farm  of  the  late  celebrated  Jemima  Wilkinson,  an  en- 
thusiast, who  pretended  that  she  was  the  Saviour  of 
mankind.  Until  her  death,  which  took  place  some 
years  since,  she  had  several  followers  ;  and  this  farm, 
which  is  very  beautiful,  has  passed  by  will  into  the 
hands  of  one  of  them.  Four  miles  south  of  Dresden  is 
Long  Point,  remarkable  for  a  tree  at  its  extremity, 
which,  by  a  little  aid  from  the  imagination,  puts  on  the 
semblance  of  an  Elephant.  Six  miles  south  of  Long 
Point  is  Rapelyea's  ferry,  near  which  is  still  standing 
the  frame  which  Jemima  constructed  to  try  the  faith 
of  her  followers.  Having  approached  within  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  the  lake  shore,  she  alighted  from  an 
elegant  carriage,  and  the  road  being  strewed  by  her 
followers  with  white  handkerchiefs,  she  walked  to  the 
platform,  and  having  announced  her  intention  of  walk- 
ing across  the  lake  on  the  water,  she  stepped  ankle  deep 
into  the  clear  element,  when  suddenly  pausing,  she  ad- 
dressed the  multitude,  inquiring  whether  or  not  they 
had  faith  that  she  could  pass  over :  for  if  otherwise,  she 
could  not ;  and  on  receiving  an  affirmative  answer,  re- 
turned to  her  carriage,  declaring  that  as  they  believed 
in  her  power,  it  was  unnecessary  to  display  it.  Six 
miles  and  a  half  south  of  Rapelyea's  ferry,  is  Starkie's 
Point,  where  the  shore  is  so  bold  that  the  steam-boat 
passes  within  10  feet  of  the  extremity  of  the  Point, 
Four  miles  further  on  the  west  shore  is  the  Big  Stream 


822 


STAGE    ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 


Canandaioua,  15  miles  from  Geneva.  This  vil- 
lage is  situated  near  the  outlet  of  the  lake  from  which 
it  takes  its  name,  on  a  gentle  ascent  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  lake  nt  the  distance  of  half  a  mile. 
The  principal  street  extends  2  miles  in  length,  and  is 
handsomely  decorated  with  trees,  through  which  ap- 
pear the  delicately  painted  dwellings,  ornamented  with 
Venetian  blinds.  In  an  open  square,  in  the  centre  of 
the  village,  is  the  court  house,  prison,  and  clerk's  office 
of  the  county,  the  town  house  and  Eagle  hotel.  Tho 
Episcopal  church,  situate  on  tho  main  street,  is  one  of 
the  most  elegantly  constructed  buildings  in  the  state. 
There  are  also  three  other  churches,  two  of  which  are 
neatly  constructed ;  a  male  and  female  academy,  a 
bank,  and  about  500  dwellings.  In  tho  vicinity  are  a 
number  of  delightful  villas,  surrounded  with  gardens 
and  orchards  of  various  kinds  of  fruit,  which,  with  tho 
view  of  the  lake  stretching  far  to  the  south,  beautifully 
set  off  the  scene  of  enchantment.  In  richness  and  va- 
riety of  natural  scenery,  and  the  taste  and  elegance  of 
its  edifices,  few  villages  can  compare  with  Canandai- 


Point,  at  which  there  is  a  mill  seat  with  a  fall  of  136 
feet.  The  land  puts  on  a  wilder  aspect  as  the  tourist 
approaches  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  the  eminences  are 
more  beetling  and  precipitous.  The  eastern  shore  also 
partakes  more  of  the  mountainous  character,  though 
cultivated  far  up  the  summit  lands,  and  is  here  and 
there  marked  by  ravines,  through  one  of  which  "  Hec- 
tor Falls"  tumble  from  a  height  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet,  and  carry  several  valuable  mills.  These  falls 
are  distant  three  miles  from  the  village  of  Jeffersonville, 
at  the  head  of  the  lake,  which  has  recently  sprung  into 
existence,  and  which  will  soon  become  an  important  in- 
land town. 


STAGE    ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 


123 


U 


}9  are 
also 

^ough 
and 

IHec- 
aiid 
falls 

[ville, 

into 

it  in- 


gua.  In  point  of  trade  and  wealth,  too,  ;  is  not  exceed- 
ed by  many  villages  in  the  state.  A  steam  mill  is  here 
in  operation,  which  annually  furnishes  a  very  largo 
supply  of  flour.  On  the  lake,  which  is  14  miles  long, 
and  from  one  to  two  in  breadth,  a  steam-boat  performs 
a  daily  trip,  which  is  rendered  unusually  interesting 
from  tho  varied  scenery  which  is  presented.  The  vil- 
lage is  situated  208  miles  from  Albany ;  from  Utica, 
1 14 ;  from  Buflalo,  80  ;  from  Niagara  Falls,  109.  Prin- 
cipal public  house?,  Blossom's  Hotel  (one  of  the  best 
in  the  western  district)  and  Pitt's  Eagle  Tavern. 

Canandaigua  was  one  of  tho  first  towns  settled  in 
what  was  formerly  called  the  "Genesee  country."    Tho 
entire  tract,  containing  six  millions  of  acres,  was  pur- 
chased of  Massachusetts  by  Oliver  Phelps  and  Nathan- 
iel Gorham,  in  1787,  for  $1,000,000;  and  Phelps,  then 
living  at  Gransvill,  in  that  state,  made  preparations  the 
spring  following  with  men  and  means  to  explore  tho 
country  thus  acquired.    With  great  resolution  and  in- 
trepidity, he  took  leave  of  his  family  and  his  neighbors, 
together  with  the  minister  of  the  parish,  who  assem- 
bled on  the  occasion,  and  started  on  his  expedition, 
leaving  them  all  in  tears,  bidding  him  a  final  adieu, 
scarcely  hoping  for  his  return  from  a  wilderness,  in  the 
Indian  country,  hardly  yet  pacified. 

He  persevered,  and  penetrated  the  forest  from  the 
German  Flats  to  Canandaigua,  a  distance  of  128  miles, 
by  the  present  improved  road— sent  out  runners,  and 
collected  the  Sachems,  Chiefs,  and  Warriors  of  the  Six 
Nations,  and  in  July  1788,  with  the  aid  of  the  Rev. 
Samuel  Kirtland,  as  State  Commissioner  and  Indian 
Missionary,  concluded  a  treaty  of  purchase  of  a  tract 

u 


iUii 


n1 


'  tl 


224 


STAGE    ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 


containing  2  J  millions  of  acres.  The  Indians  were  dis- 
posed to  conlinc  Mr.  Phcl[)s  to  the  GcncHce  river  as  his 
western  boundary.  Ho  however  proposed  the  erection 
of  mills  at  the  falls  of  tho  river,  (now  Rochester,)  and 
obtained  of  them  in  tho  purchase  what  wan  termed  a 
mill  yardj  embracing  a  tract  of  12  by  24  miles,  extend- 
ing 12  miles  west  of  Rochester,  and  north  to  Lake  On- 
tario. 

The  kindness  of  Mr.  Phelps,  and  the  good  faith 
always  observed  by  him  towards  the  Indians,  induc- 
ed them  to  adopt  him  and  his  son  ad  honorary  mem- 
bers of  their  national  councils.  The  leading  chiefs 
concerned  in  these  negotiations,  were  Farmer's  Broth- 
er and  Red  Jacket,  the  latter  of  whom  died  near  Buffalo 
in  i829. 

In  1789,  the  lands  thus  purchased,  having  been  divi- 
ded into  ranges,  Phelps  opened  a  land  office  at  Canan- 
daigua,  the  first  established  in  America,  where  he 
continued  to  make  sales  until  the  year  following, 
when  the  balance  of  the  tract  to  which  the  Indian  title 
had  been  cxtinguised,  being  1,264,000  acres,  was  sold 
to  Robert  Morris,  for  eight  pence,  lawful  money,  per 
acre,  who  sold  tho  same  to  Sir  William  Pultncy,  of 
England. 

Gorham  and  Phelps  not  being  able  to  pay  the  whole 
purchase  money,  compromised  and  surrendered  to  Mas- 
sachusetts that  part  of  the  land  to  which  the  Indian  title 
remained  ''nextinguished,  being  about  two-thirds  of  the 
western  part  of  it;  and  in  179G,  Morris  purchased  of 
Massachusetts  the  tract  thus  surrendered,  cxtinguisJi- 
ed  the  Indian  title,  sold  out  several  tracts  to  different 
persons,  and  mortgaged  the  residue  to  William  Wil- 


BURNINO    SPRIN08. 


225 


link  and  others,  of  Amsterdam,  called  the  Holland 
Company — under  the  foreclosure  of  which  mortgage 
the  company  acquired  the  full  title  to  their  large  tract, 
surveyed  it  into  ranges  and  townships,  after  the  man- 
ner of  Oliver  Phelps,  and  in  1801  opened  a  land  office 
at  Batavia,  under  the  agency  of  Joseph  Ellicot,  for  tho 
sale  thereof. 

Oliver  Phelps,  Esq.  grandson  of  the  original  propri- 
etor, is  tho  owner,  and  resides  on  the  premises  of  his 
ancestor  in  Canandaigua. 


title 

sold 

per 


Burning  Springs.    From  8  to  10  miles,  in  a  south- 
westerly direction  from  Canandaigua,  are  found  several 


springs,  charged  with  inflammable 


gas. 


They  are 


found  in  Bristol,  Middlesex,  and  Canandaigua.  The 
former  are  situated  in  a  ravine  on  the  west  side  of 
•Bristol  Hollow,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  North  Pres- 
byterian meeting  house.  The  ravine  is  formed  in  clay 
slate,  and  a  small  brook  runs  through  it.  The  gas 
rises  through  fissures  of  the  slate,  from  both  the  margin 
and  the  bed  of  the  brook.  Where  it  rises  through  tho 
water,  it  is  formed  into  bubbles,  and  flashes  only  when 
the  flame  is  applied  ;  but  where  it  rises  directly  from 
the  rock,  it  burns  with  a  steady  and  beautiful  flame, 
which  continues  until  extinguished  by  storms,  or  by 
design, 

Tho  springs  in  Middlesex  are  situated  from  one  to 
two  miles  south-westerly  from  the  village  of  Rushvillc, 
along  a  tract  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  partly  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  valley  called  Federal  Hollow,  and  partly  at 
an  elevation  of  40  or  50  feet  on  the  south  side  of  it. 
The  latter  have  been  discovered  will.'in  a  few  years, 


i 

Tl 
I 


22& 


BURNING  SPRINGS. 


in  a  field  which  had  been  long  cleared,  and  are  very  nu- 
merous.   Their  places  are  known  by  little  hillocks  of  a 
few  feet  in  diameter  and  a  few  inches  high,  formed  of 
dark  bituminous  mould,  which  seems, principally  to 
have  been  deposited  by  the  gas,  and  through  which  it 
finds  its  way  to  the  surface,  in  one  or  more  currents. 
These  currents  of  gas  may  be  set  on  fire,  and  will  bum 
with  a  steady  flame.    In  winter  they  form  openings 
through  the  snow,  and  being  set  on  fire,  exhibit  the 
novel  and  interestingphenomenonof  a  steady  and  lively 
flame  in  contact  with  nothing  but  snow.    In  very  cold 
weather,  it. is  said,  tubes  of  ice  are  formed  round  these 
currents  of  gas,  (probably  from  the  freezing  of  the  va- 
por contained  in  it,)  which  sometimes  rise  to  the  height 
of  two  or  three  feet,  the  gas  issuing  from  their  tops; 
the  whole  when  lighted  in  a  still  evening  presenting  an 
appearance  even  more  beautiful  than  the  former. 

Experiments  made  with  the  gas  seem  to  prove,  that 
it  consists  principally  of  a  mixture  of  the  light  and  heavy 
carburetted  hydrogen  gases,  the  former  having  greatly 
the  preponderance ;  and  that  it  contains  a  small  pro- 
portion of  carbonic  acid  gas.    It  seems  also  to  hold  a 
little  oily  or  bituminous  matter  in  solution.    It  burns 
with  a  lambent,  yellowish  flame,  scarcely  inclining  to 
red,  with  small  scintillations  of  a  bright  red  at  its  base. 
It  has  the  odour  of  pit  coal.    It  produces  no  smoke, 
but  deposits,  while  burning,  a  small  quantity  of  bitu- 
minous lampblack.    It  is  remarkable  that  the  hillocks, 
through  which  the  gas  rises,  are  totally  destitute  of 
vegetation.    Whether  the  gas  is  directly  deleterious  to 
vegetable  Ufe,  or  indirectly,  by  interrupting  the  contact 


STAGE  ROUTE— EAST  AVON. 


227 


of  tho  air  of  the  atmosphere,  it  is  certain  that  no  plant 
can  sustain  life  within  the  circle  of  its  influence. 

From  Canandaigua  stages  may  be  taken  for  Roches- 
ter, (see  "  Canal  Route,")  distant  27  miles  in  a  north- 
westerly direction,  and  the  route  continued  from  thence 
to  the  Falls  by  stage  or  canal,  or  to  Buffalo,  via  the 
Tonewanta  rail  road,  noticed  at  p.  229 ;  but  if  a  visit 
to  Montreal,  by  the  way  of  Lake  Ontario,  is  not  con- 
templated, it  is  generally  deemed  a  better  course  to 
proceed  directly  to  Buffalo  and  the  Falls,  and  return  by 
the  way  of  Rochester.  In  pursuing  the  usual  route 
from  Canandaigua  to  Buffalo, 

East  Bloomfield  is  reached  in  travelling  9  miles, 
and  West  Bloomfield  in  going  5  miles  farther.  They 
are  considered  among  the  richest  agricultural  town- 
ships in  the  state ;  presenting  a  succession  of  beautiful 
and  highly  cultivated  farms.  The  fruit  raised  on  these 
lands,  particularly  apples  and  peaches,  is  not  excelled 
in  any  section  of  the  country. 

Lima  is  4  miles  from  West  Bloomfield,  and  is  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  same  rich  and  fertile  soil,  divided  into 
highly  improved  and  productive  farms. 

East  Avon  is  5,  and  Avon  Post  Office  7  miles 
from  Lima.  The  Genesee  river  passes  through  the 
town  of  Avon,  and  is  navigable  for  boats  to  the  Erie 
canal  at  Rochester,  20  miles  distant,  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  a  feeder.  The  alluvial  flats  are  very  ex- 
tensive and  fertile ;  and  the  uplands  are  well  watered 
by  small  streams  and  springs.  A  remarkable  bulbous 
root  grows  on  tho  Genesee  fiats  in  this  town.  It  is 
from  3  to  4  feet  in  length,  from  6  to  8  inches  in  diame« 

u2 


228 


STAGE  ROUTE — LE  ROT. 


ter,  and  assumes  the  external  appearance  of  a  log  in 
the  earth.  A  small  creeping  vine  like  that  of  the  straw- 
berry, proceeds  from  the  root ;  and  its  natural  vegeta- 
ble productions  are  almost  infinitely  various. 

The  Avon  Spring  is  becoming  a  place  of  considera- 
ble resort  for  invalids.  Its  waters,  which  are  strongly 
impregnated  with  sulphur  and  alum,  are  found  benefi- 
cial in  various  diseases.  The  tourist  will  generally  find 
himself  amply  compensated  by  spending  a  day  at  this 
place. 

Caledonia,  8  miles  from  Avon  Post  Office,  is  more 
particularly  celebrated  as  the  location  of  a  large  Springy 
than  for  any  thing  else.  The  stage  usiially  stops  at 
the  village  long  enough  to  enable  passengers  to  visit 
this  natural  curiosity,  which  is  situate  a  few  rods  north 
of  the  principal  street.  Within  a  small  area,  sufficient 
water  rises  to  propel  a  mill,  (of  which  there  are  several 
or  the  stream  below,)  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The 
water  is  pure  and  appears  to  rise  from  a  rocky  bottom. 
A  stage  runs  daily  from  this  place  to  Rochester,  which 
is  20  miles  distant — a  part  of  the  route  being  along  the 
bank  of  the  Genesee  river. 

Pursuing  the  direct  route  from  Caledonia  to  Buffalo, 
the  next  place  of  importance  is  the  pleasant  and  thriv- 
ing village  of 

Leroy,  which  is  6  miles  west  of  Caledonia,  and  17 
miles  south  of  the  Erie  canal.  Allen's  creek,  which 
passes  through  the  village,  aflTords  important  mill  privi- 
lejies,  and  contributes  much  to  the  value  and  business 
of  the  place.  The  village  contains  4  churches,  250 
dwellings,  2  large  flouring  mills  and  several  raanufac- 


STAGE  ROUTB — BATAVIA. 


239 


tones.  At  this  place  the  creek  has  a  fall  of  18  feet ;  a 
mile  farther,  one  of  27  feet;  and  about  a  mile  farther, 
one  of  80  feet.  Before  reaching  the  latter,  however, 
the  stream  is  much  diminished — supplying,  as  is  sup- 
posed, the  Caledonia  spring,  already  noticed.  Nume- 
rous petrifactions  have  been  found  in  the  bed  of  the 
creek,  about  200  yards  north  of  the  village  bridge  ; 
among  which  are  petrified  turtles,  weighing  from  10  to 
300  poundj.  They  are  composed  principally  of  dark 
coloured  bituminous  limestone,  which  is  easily  split, 
and  often  discovers  crystalline  veins,  together  with  yel- 
low clay  or  ochre.  The  mineralogist  will  find  much 
here  to  gratify  his  taste  and  reward  his  researches. 
The  delightful  appearance  of  the  village,  also,  with  its 
charming  location  on  an  eminence,  will  often  induce 
the  traveller  to  make  it  a  temporary  resting  place  from 
the  fatigues  of  a  journey. 

Batavia  is  10  miles  from  Le  Roy.  It  is  the  capital 
of  Genesee  county  ;  and  assumes  more  the  appearance 
of  one  of  the  early  settled  villages  in  New-England, 
than  the  more  flourishing  villages  of  the  west.  It  is 
situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Tonewanta  creek,  on 
an  extensive  plain,  and  has  several  handsome  private 
mansions.  Besides  the  court  house  and  jail,  it  contains 
a  bank,  the  Holland  Company's  land  office,  and  about 
300  dwellings.  The  Tonewanta  rail  road,  leading  from 
Rochester,  terminates  at  this  place  ;  and  one  extend- 
ing to  Buffalo,  40  miles  farther,  is  soon  to  be  con- 
structed. 

This  village  has  become  somewhat  celebrated  as  the 
theatre  of  events  connected  with  the  masonic  fraternity. 


*■ 


830 


ERIB  CANAL. 


It  was  the  residence  of  the  noted  William  Morgan^ 
previous  to  his  abduction  ;  and  from  one  of  its  printing 
offices  was  first  issued  what  has  been  denominated  the 
secrets  of  masonry.  The  excitement  produced  for  a 
time  in  the  village,  and  in  other  sections  of  the  country, 
was  of  a  nature  the  most  rancorous  and  intolerant, 
and  unworthy  the  character  of  an  enlightened  people. 
Illiberal  feelings,  however,  have  in  a  measure  given 
place  to  reason  and  a  prevailing  disposition  to  establish 
peace  and  good  order. 

After  leaving  Batavia  for  Buffalo,  the  country  soon 
assumes  a  less  populous  appearance ;  and  the  travel- 
ling is  rendered  unpleasant  from  the  extensive  cause- 
ways which  intervene,  consisting  of  logs  placed  trans- 
versely in  the  road.  This,  however,  will  be  obviated 
whenever  the  rail  road  is  finished. 

The  intervening  places  between  Batavia  and  BuflTalo 
are  Pembroke,  14  miles — Clarence,  8 — Williamsville, 
8 — from  which  to  Buffalo  is  10  miles.  [For  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  latter  place,  see  "  Canal  Route."] 

ERIE  CANAL. 

This  magnificent  structure  was  commenced  under 
the  patronage  of  the  state,  on  the  4th  of  July,  1817, 
and  was  completed  in  1825,  uniting  the  waters  of  the 
Erie  and  Hudson,  at  an  expense,  including  interest  up- 
on loans,  of  $10,731,594 ;  of  which  sum,  however, 
there  was  of  outstanding  debt,  only  $7,737,770.  The 
canal,  beginning  at  Albany  on  the  Hudson,  passes  up 
the  west  bank  of  the  river  nearly  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Mohawk  ;  thence  along  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk  to 
Schenectady,  crossing  the  river  twice  by  aqueducts. 


.  _-'.'"j,i<'--'..i.--njy'V.i 


.,;!»: 


,■  iii.aSii;^  :.;i:^jv. , 


BRIE  CAKAL. 


231 


From  Schenectady  it  follows  the  south  bank  of  the 
Mohawk  until  it  reaches  Rome.    In  some  places  it  en- 
croaches so  near  as  to  require  embankments  made  up 
from  the  river  to  support  it.    An  embankment  of  this 
description,  at  Amstemam  village,  is  5  or  6  miles  in 
extent.    What  is  called  the  long  level,  being  :>.  distance 
of  69|  miles  without  an  intervening  lock,  commences 
in  the  town  of  Frankfort,  about  8  miles  east  of  Utica, 
and  terminates  three  fourths  of  a  mile  east  of  Syra- 
cuse ;  from  thence  the  route  proceeds  35  miles  to  Lake 
Port,  situated  on  the  east  border  of  the  Cayuga  marsh- 
es, 3  miies  in  extent,  over  which  to  the  great  embank- 
ment, 72  feet  in  height  and  near  2  miles  in  length,  is  a 
distance  of  52  miles ;  thence  SJ  miles  to  the  commence- 
ment of  the  Genesee  level,  extending  westward  to 
Lockport,  nearly  parallel  with  the  ridge  road,  65  miles. 
Seven  miles  from  thence  to  Pendleton  village  the  canal 
enters  Tonewanta  creek,  which  it  follows  12  miles, 
and  thence  following  the  cast  side  of  the  Niagara  river, 
communicates  with  Lake  Erie  at  Buffalo.    The  whole 
line  of  the  canal  from  Albany  to  Bufialo  is  363  miles 
in  length.    It  is  40  feet  wide  at  the  top,  28  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  the  water  flows  at  the  depth  of  4  feet  in  a 
moderate  descent  of  half  an  inch  in  a  mile.*    I'he  tow 


*  By  recent  acts  of  the  legislature,  the  canal  com- 
missioners have  been  authorized  to  increase  the  dimen- 
sions of  the  canal  to  a  width  of  60  or  70  feet,  and  to  a 
depth  of  6  feet ;  and  to  double  the  locks  ;  the  cost  of 
wliich  will  not  be  less  than  J  2  or  $15,000,000.  A  por- 
tion of  the  work  is  already  commenced,  especially  on 
the  eastern  division,  together  with  a  new  aqueduct  over 
the  Genesee  river  at  Rochester. 


''4  's 


232 


ERIE  CANAL. 


path  is  elevated  about  4  feet  from  the  surface  of  tho 
water,  and  is  10  feet  wide.  The  whole  length  of  the 
canal  includes  83  locks  and  18  aqueducts  of  various 
extent.  The  locks  are  constructed  in  the  most  durable 
manner  of  stone  laid  in  water  lime,  and  are  90  feet  in 
length  and  15  feet  in  width.  The  whole  rise  and  fall 
of  lockage  is  688  feet,  and  the  height  of  Lake  Erie 
above  the  Hudson  568  feet.  The  principal  aqueducts 
are,  one  crossing  the  Genesee  river  at  Rochester,  804 
I'eet  in  length ;  one  crossing  the  Mohawk  at  Little 
Falls,  supported  by  3  arches,  the  centre  of  70  feet,  and 
those  pn  each  side  of  50  feet  chord  ,•  and  two  crossing 
the  Mohawk  river  near  Alexander's  bridge,  one  of 
which  is  748  feet  and  the  other  1188  feet  in  length. 
The  whole  workmanship  evinces  a  degree  of  beauty 
and  proportion  consistent  with  the  greatest  strength. 
In  many  places  the  sides  of  the  canal  are  either  paved 
with  small  stones  or  cov  )red  with  thick  grass,  designed 
to  prevent  the  crumbUng  of  the  soil  by  the  motion  of 
the  water.  To  the  main  canal  are  a  number  of  side 
cuts  or  lateral  canals :  one  opposite  Troy,  connecting 
with  the  Hudson ;  one  at  Utica  to  Binghampton  (the 
Chenango  canal)  97  miles  long;  one  at  S3nracuse,  a 
mile  and  a  half  in  length,  to  Salina ;  one  from  Syaacuse 
to  Oswego,  38  miles  in  length ;  one  at  Orville ;  one  at 
Chitteningo ;  one  at  Lake  Port,  extending  to  the  Cay- 
uga lake,  5  miles,  and  from  thence  to  the  Seneca  lake 
at  Geneva,  a  distance  of  15  miles ;  and  one  at  Roches- 
ter of  two  miles  in  length,  which  serves  the  double 
purpose  of  a  navigable  feeder,  and  a  mean  of  commu- 
nication for  boats  between  the  canal  and  the  Genesee 
river.    The  Chemung  canal,  extending  from  the  head 


r 


ERIE  CANAL. 


•ryi 


waters  of  the  Seneca  lake  to  the  Chemung  river,  18 
miles  distant,  with  a  navigable  feeder  of  13  miles,  from 
Painted  Post  on  the  Chemung  river  to  the  summit  level 
of  the  canal ;  and  the  Crooked  lake  canal,  7  miles  in 
length,  extending  from  the  outlet  of  the  Seneca  lake  to 
the  Crooked  lake,  near  Pen  Yan,  have  also  been  con- 
structed. 

The  whole  lino  of  navigation  which  is  connected 
with  the  Erie  canal  by  these  last  improvements,  com- 
prehending the  Seneca  and  Cayuga  lakes,  is  146  miles. 
The  construction  of  a  lateral  canal  from  Rome  to  Black 
river  in  Jefferson  county, — and  the  Genesee  Valley  ca- 
nal, from  Rochester  to  Olean  on  the  Alleghany  river, 
have  been  authorized  by  the  state  legislature. 

The  receipts  in  1835  from  the  different  canals,  and 
from  the  sources  connected  therewith,  including  auc- 
tion and  salt  duties,  was  $1,911,555;  and  in  1836, 
$1,975,735. 

Though  the  "  canal  route,"  now  that  a  rail  road  is 
completed  to  Utica,  properly  commences  at  that  place, 
we  nevertheless  give  a  table  of  distances  throughout 
the  line,  commencing  at  Albany  : 


234 


CANAL   nOUTE. 


Distance  from 


NAMES  OF  PLACES. 


Albany, 

Port-Schuyler,.. 

Washington,  (Gibbonsville,) .... 

West  Troy, 

Junction, 

Gahoes, 

Lower  aqneduct, 

Willow  Spring, 

Upper  aqueduct, •  •  • 

Schenectady, , 

Rotterdnm, 

Phillips'  locks, 

Amsterdam, 

Schoharie  creek, 

Smithtown,  ( Auriesville,) 

Caughnawaga,  (Fultonville,) . . . 

Big  Nose, 

Spraker's  basin, 

Canajoharie, 

Fort  Plain 

DiefendorPs  landing, 

Minden  dam,  (St.  Johnsville,)  . . 

East  Canada  creek, 

Indian  Castle,  (Nowandaga  cr'k) 

Fink's  terry, 

Little  Falls, ^ 

Rankin's  lock,  (No.  7,) , . 

Herkimer  lower  bridge, 

Herkimer  upper  bridge, 

Fulmer's  creek,. .............. 

Morgan's  landing, 

Steel's  creek, 

Frankfort, • • 


O 

a 

"5. 

o 
«d 

u 
-2 

0 

5 

1 

I 

2 

1 

3 

6 

7 

4 

9 

5 

3 

5 

2 

3 

7 

2 

3 

3 

3 

2 

4 

2 

3 

2 

3 

4 

1 

1 

1 

1 

2 


>-. 

B 
e9 
jQ 

<_ 

0 

5 

6 

7 

9 

10 

13 

19 

26 

30 

39 

44 

47 

52 

54 

57 

64 

66 

69 

72 

75 

77 

81 

83 

86 

88 

91 

95 

96 

97 

98 

99 


• 

*-> 

0) 

«^ 

(O 

ej 

J3 

u 

o 

■*^ 

o 

tD 

a 

o 

1 

3 
CQ 


IOl| 


no 

105 
104 
103 
101 
100 
97 
91 
84 
80 
71 
66 
63 
58 
56 
53 
46 
44 
41 
38 
35 
33 
29 
27 
24 
22 
19 
15 
14 
13 
12 
11 
9 


269 
264 
263 
262 
26) 
259 
256 


364 
359 
353 
357 
355 
354 
351 


250  345 
243' 338 
239334 
230'325 


225 

222 

247 

215 

212 

205 

203 

200 

197 

194 

192 

188 

186 

183 

181 

173 

174 

173 

172 

171 

170 

168 


320 
317 
312 
310 
307 
300 
298 
295 
292 
289 
287 
283 
281 
278 
276 
273 
269 
268 
267 
266 
265 
263 


I 


CANAL  ROUTE. 


235 


Distance  from 


o 

§ 

CQ 
3t>4 
359 
358 
357 
355 
354 
351 


320 
317 
312 
310 

2  307 
300 
298 
295 

7  292 
289 
287 
283 
281 
278 
276 
273 
269 
268 
267 
266 
265 
263 


NAMES  or  PLACES. 


• 

V 

CI 

• 

u 

Ou 

V 

O 

o 

c 

4d 

QD 

cu 

< 

D 

cd 

I 


Ferguson's 

Utica, 

York  Milb,  (Wetmore's,) 

Whitesboro', 

Oriskany, 

Rome, 

Wood  creek  aqueduct/ (Ft.  Bull,) 

Ilawley's  basin, 

Stony  creek, 

New  London, • 

Higgins', 

Loomis,' 

Oneida  creek,  (Durhamville,) . . . 

Canastota, •• 

New  Boston,  (Canasaraga,)  . . . . 

Chitteningo, 

Pool's  brook, • 

Kirkville,. 

Little  lake, 

Manlius,  (Reel's,) 

Limestone  feeder, 

Orville  feeder, 

Lodi, 

Syracuse, 

Geddes, 

Belisle, 

Nine-mile  creek, 

Camillus, 

Canton, 

Pern, , 

Jordan, , 

Cold  Spring, 

Weedspor^ , , 

V 


6 

107 

3 

162 

257 

3 

no 

0 

159 

254 

a 

113 

3 

156 

251 

1 

114 

4 

155 

250 

3 

117 

7 

152 

247 

8 

125 

15 

144 

239 

2 

127 

17 

142 

237 

2 

12S 

19 

140 

235 

1 

130 

20 

139 

234 

2 

132 

22 

137 

232 

4 

136 

26 

133 

228 

2 

138 

28 

131 

226 

3 

141 

31 

128 

222 

5 

146 

36 

123 

218 

4 

150 

40 

119 

214 

3 

153 

43 

116 

211 

3 

156 

46 

113  208 

3 

158 

48 

111,206 

2 

160 

50 

109 

204 

2 

162 

62 

107 

202 

1 

163 

53 

106 

201 

2 

165 

55 

104 

199 

6 

170 

60 

99 

194 

1 

171 

61 

98 

19a 

2 

173 

63 

96 

191 

4 

177 

67 

92 

187 

1 

178 

68 

91 

186 

1 

179 

69 

90 

18S 

5 

184 

74 

85 

180 

2 

186 

76 

83 

178 

4 

190 

80 

79 

174 

1 

191 

81 

78 

17a 

5 

196 

86 

73 

16a 

236 


TANAl.  ROUTE. 


Distance  from 


NAMES  OF  PLACES. 


Centreport, 

Port  Byron 

Montezuma,  (Lakeport,) 

Lockpit, 

Clyde, 

Lock  Beilin, 

Lyons, 

Lockville, 

Newark, 

Port  Gibson, 

Palmyra, 

Macedonville, 

Wayneport,  (Barrager's  basin,).. 
Perrinton,  (LindePs  bridge,) .... 
Perrinton  Centre,  (Col.  Peter's,) 

Fairport, 

FuUam's  basin, 

Bushnel's  basin, 

Pittsford, 

Billinghast's  basin, 

Lock  No.  3, 

Rochester, 

Brock  way's, 

Spencer's  basin, 

Adam's  basin, , 

Cooley's  basin, 

Brockport, 

Holley, 

Scio, 

Albion, 

Gaines'  basin,.. , 

Eagle  harbor,. 

Long  bridge, 


• 

9J 

O 

a 

.  • 

eu 

o 

o 

C 

• 

en 

o 

03 

8 

■  m^ 

i 

Q- 

< 

o 

ai 

o 

3 
P3 


1 

197 

87 

72 

167 

2 

199 

89 

70 

165 

6 

205 

95 

64 

159 

G 

211 

101 

58 

153 

5 

216 

106 

53 

148 

5 

221 

111 

48  143 

4 

225 

115 

44  139 

ti 

231 

121 

38  133 

1 

232,122 

37 

132 

3 

235  125 

34 

12U 

5 

240  130 

29 

124 

4 

2441134 

25 

120 

3 

247 

137 

22 

117 

2 

249 

139 

20 

115 

2 

251 

141 

18 

113 

1 

252 

142 

17 

112 

1 

253 

143 

16 

111 

3 

256 

146 

13 

108 

3 

259 

149 

10 

105 

4 

263 

153 

6 

101 

2 

265 

155 

4 

99 

4 

269 

159 

0 

95 

10 

279 

169 

10 

85 

2 

281 

171 

12 

83 

3 

284 

174 

15 

80 

3 

237 

177 

18 

77 

2 

289 

179 

20 

75 

5 

294 

184 

25 

70 

4 

298 

188 

29 

66 

6 

304 

194 

35 

60 

2 

306 

196 

37 

58 

1 

307 

197 

38 

57 

2 

309 

199 

40 

55 

! 


WIIITRSBOROCCII. 


i04 


cefroin 


o 
(n 


ai 


s 
pa 


72 

167 

70 

165 

G4 

159 

58 

153 

53'148 

48 

143 

44 

139 

38:i33 

37  i  132 

34 

129 

29 

124 

25 

120 

22 

117 

20 

115 

18 

113 

17 

112 

16 

111 

13 

108 

10 

105 

6 

101 

4 

99 

0 

95 

10 

85 

12 

83 

15 

80 

18 

77 

20 

75 

25 

70 

29 

66 

35 

60 

37 

58 

38 

57 

40 

55 

Distance  from 


NAMES  OF  PLACES. 


6 

V 

a 

a. 

0) 

o 

• 

H 

"3. 

c 

■a 
L3 

Si 
OS 

o 

i 

9 


Knowleiivillu, 

Road  culvert, 

Medina, 

Shelby  basin, 

Middleport, 

Reynold's  basin,.... 

Gasport, ,.. 

Lock  port, 

Pendleton 

Welch's, 

IT.  Brock  way's, .... 

Tonnawanta, 

Lower  Black  Rock,, 
Black  Rock, ....... 

Buffalo 


2 

ill 

2U1 

42 

1 

312 

203 

43 

3 

315 

205 

46 

3 

318 

208 

49 

3 

321 

211 

52 

3 

324 

214 

55 

2 

326 

216 

57 

7 

333 

223 

64 

7 

340 

230 

71 

2 

342 

232 

73 

4 

346 

236 

77 

6 

352 

242 

83 

8 

360 

250 

91 

1 

361 

^.,1 

1)2 

3 

3(i. 

254 

95 

53 
52 
49 
46 
43 
40 
38 
3i 
24 
23 
IS 
12 
4 
3 
0 


For  a  description  of  Albany,  Trot,  the  Jumctiok, 
ScHENECTADT,  Utica,  and  the  intermediate  places,  see 
pages  144, 150, 153,  163,  196  to  205. 

Whitksborouoh,  4  miles  north-west  of  Utica,  is  a 
beautiful  and  wealthy  village,  located  on  a  rich  and 
fertile  plain.  The  principal  street  is  a  short  distance 
from,  and  *nms  parallel  with  the  canal ;  from  which 
through  branches  of  trees  half  enshrouding  the  vil- 
lage, may  be  seen  several  elegant  country  seats.  It 
may  be  considered,  indeed,  as  better  adapted  for  a 
country  residence  than  a  place  of  business.  At  the 
eastern  extremity  of  the  village  is  shown  the  first 


■i ...  rfi 


238 


CANAL   ROUTE. 


framed  houao  erected  in  the  county  of  Oneida ;  half  a 
mile  from  which  the  canal  passes  over  the  Sauquait 
creek.  Within  11  miles  of  the  canal,  on  this  creek, 
there  are  nearly  100  mills  of  various  descriptions,  in- 
cluding several  factories,  some  of  which  cost  rising  of 
$120,000.  The  York  mills,  or  cotton  factories,  half  a 
mile  south  of  the  canal,  are  considered  among  the  best 
m  the  state,  and  constitute  of  themselves,  with  the 
houses  for  laborers,  a  compact  village, 

Oriskant,  3  miles  from  Whitesborough,  is  a  flour- 
ishing village  of  about  100  houses.  It  is  situated  on 
the  Oriakany  creek,  which  here  enters  the  canal  as  a 
feeder.  The  Oriskany  Manufacturing  Company  have 
a  woollen  factory  here,  which  is  the  most  extensive  of 
the  kind  in  the  state.  The  capital  of  the  company  is 
$200,000,  one  half  of  which  has  been  paid  in  ;  and  the 
amount  of  wool  annually  consumed  is  160,000  pounds. 


H  '  ' 


Rome,  8  miles.  This  is  a  half  shire  town  of  the  coun- 
ty of  Oneida,  contains  a  court  house,  jail  and  bank, 
and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  old 
canal  connecting  Wood  creek  with  the  Mohawk  river, 
and  about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  Erie  canal.*  It  con- 
tains a  bank  and  about  350  dwelling  houses,  principally 
located  on  one  street,  running  east  and  west  The  ruins 
of  Fort  StanwiXf  near  the  village  between  Wood  creek 
and  the  Mohawk,  are  still  visible.  This  fort  was  erect- 
ed in  1758  by  the  British,  was  Buffered  to  decay,  and 
was  afterwards  rebuilt  by  the  Americans  during  the 

*  In  the  improvement  of  the  canal,  it  is  to  pass  thro* 
the  village. 


.;»-■ 


NEW-LONDON. 


239 


revolution.    15  or  1800  men,  including  Indians,  were 
sent  from  Montreal  by  Burgoyne,  in  1777,  to  besiege 
the  fort.    They  were  commanded  by  the  Baron  St. 
Legcr.    Gen.  Herkimer,  commandant  of  the  militia  of 
Tryon  county,  (embracing  the  present  counties  of 
Montgomery  and  Herkimer,)  was  sent  against  them 
with  about  800  men.  On  meeting  a  detachment  of  Le- 
ber's forces,  the  militia  mostly  fled  on  the  first  fire,    A 
few,  however,  remained  and  fought  by  the  side  of  Gen. 
H.,  who  was  mortally  wounded  in  the  road  between 
Whitestown  and  Rome.    The  Americans  lost  160  kill- 
ed and  240  wounded.    The  fort,  which  was  command- 
ed by  Col.  Gansevoort,  was  afterwards  assaulted  by 
Leger's  army  ;  but  they  were  driven  off  by  a  sortie,  di- 
rected  by  Col.  Willet,  and  their  camp  plundered.    Sub- 
sequently the  fort  was  summoned  to  surrender ;  but 
through  a  stratagem  of  Gen.  Arnold,  who  sent  two  em« 
issaries  from  the  camp  at  Stillwater,  an  Indian  and  a 
white  man,  to  inform  Leger  of  the  approach  of  a  pow- 
erful American  army  for  the  relief  of  the  besieged,  he 
ordered  a  precipitate  retreat  to  the  Oneida  lake,  leav- 
ing all  his  baggage  behind. 

An  arsenal  belonging  to  the  U.  S.  is  situate  about 
half  a  mile  west  of  the  village  and  300  yards  north  of 
the  canal. 


New-London,  a  small  village,  is  passed  7  miles  from 
Rome  ;  and  the  village  of  Loomis,  6  miles  farther ;  3 
miles  from  which  the  canal  crosses  the  Oneida  Creek. 
From  thence  to  Lenox  Basin  is  3  miles  ;  to  Canasto- 
TA,  a  flourishing  village  of  about  150  houses,  2  miles  j 
and  to  New  Boston,  4  miles. 

v2 


ii'i 


240 


CAKAL  ROUTE. 


Chittenikgo  is  4  miles  farther.  A  navigable  feeder 
enters  the  canal  at  this  place.  It  is  taken  from  the 
Chitteningo  creek  at  the  village  of  that  name,  a  mile 
and  a  half  distant  {See  p.  212.)  From  Chitteningo  to 
ManUus  {seep.  213)  is  8  miles ;  from  thence  to  Orville 
3  ;*  and  from  thence  6  miles  to 

Syracuse.    The  appearance  of  this  village  as  you 
approach  it  is  handsome.    It  is  built  on  both  sides  of 
the  canal,  and  the  stores  and  warehouses  are  substan- 
tial and  lofty.    On  the  left,  as  you  come  up  the  canal, 
is  one  of  the  most  splendid  Hotels  in  the  state.  It  is  of 
brick,  four  stories  high,  and  surrounded  with  piazzas. 
There  are  also  about  700  dwellings  and  stores,  several 
handsome  churches,  a  bank,  court  house  and  jail,  and 
every  thing  has  the  appearance  of  a  commercial  bust- 
ling  town.    This  thriving  village  owes  its  importance 
principally  to  the  salt  produced  in  its  neighborhood,  the 
whole  adjacent  country  being  impregnated  with  it,  and 
springs  from  which  immense  quantities  are  manufac- 
tured rising  in  various  directions.^  A  little  west  of  Sy- 
racuse, a  plain  of  300  acres  is  nearly  covered  with  vats 
for  the  manufacture  of  salt  by  solar  evaporation.    The 
water  is  brought  in  log  3  from  the  great  spring  at  Sali- 
na,  one  mile  distant,  which  supplies,  with  very  little  at- 
tention, the  various  ranges  of  vats.   A  light  roof  is  con- 
structed to  each  vat,  which  can  be  shoved  off  or  on  at 
pleasure,  to  permit  the  rays  of  the  sun  to  act  upon  the 

*  At  this  place  are  inexhaustible  beds  of  water  lime, 
used  for  hydraulic  cement  j  large  quantities  of  which 
are  annually  exported. 


SALINA. 


241 


water,  or  to  prevent  the  dampness  of  the  atmosphere 
from  commingling  therewith.  The  salt  is  taken  out  of 
these  vats  during  the  warm  season,  and  removed  to 
store  houses  ;  from  whence  it  is  conveyed  in  barrels  to 
the  canal  for  transportation.  Two  companies,  with 
each  a  capital  of  $150,000,  have  been  incorporated,  who 
annually  manufacture  160,000  bushels. 

The  Onondaga  creek,  affording  valuable  water  pow- 
er, runs  through  the  village,  over  which  the  canal  is 
carried  in  a  stone  aqueduct  of  4  arches. 

Salina  is  one  and  n  /  '"  miles  north  of  Syracuse, 
and  though  not  on  thr  i;slly  travelled  route  to  the 
west,  should  be  visited  for  the  purpose  of  examining 
the  principal  spring,  and  the  various  salt  establishments 
connected  therewith. 

The  spring  at  Salina  was  first  discovered  by  the  In- 
dians many  years  since,  by  being  the  resort  of  deer  and 
other  animals.    The  first  white  settlers  were  in  the 
habit  of  boiling  the  water  in  small  vessels  for  domestic 
purposes.    Since  then  the  spring  has  been  excavated 
to  a  very  considerable  depth,  and  affords  the  strongest 
saline  water  yet  discovered  in  the  world,  40  gallons 
yielding  about  a  bushel  of  pure  salt.    The  water  is 
forced  up  to  the  top  of  an  adjoining  hill  by  a  powerful 
hydraulian,  driven  by  ihe  surplus  waters  of  the  Os- 
wego canal,  which  runs  through  this  place.    The  salt 
water  is  in  this  way  conveyed  85  feet  above  the  canal 
to  a  large  reservoir,  into  which  it  is  discharged  at  the 
rate  of  300  gailons  per  minute.    It  is  hence  carried  to 
the  different  factories  in  Salina  and  Svracuse.  Of  these 
there  are  77  at  Salina  and  15  at  Syracuse ;  there  are 


242 


CANAL    ROUTE. 


also  25  at  Liverpool,  about  6  miles  north-west  of  Sali- 
na,  and  Id  at  Geddes,  ^  miles  west  of  Syracuse.  Tho 
works  and  springs  all  belong  to  the  state,  to  which  im- 
posts are  payable,  which,  by  tho  constitution  of  the 
state,  are  applied  towards  the  extinguishment  of  tho 
canal  debt.  Tho  water  is  conveyed  from  the  reservoir 
to  the  different  manufactories  and  evaporating  fields, 
by  means  of  wooden  pipes.  The  salt  is  manufactured 
generally  by  boiling  and  evaporation.  There  are,  how- 
ever, two  establishments  in  v/hich  it  is  made  in  large 
wooden  vats,  by  means  of  hot  air  passing  through 
them  in  large  metallic  pipes.  The  manufactories  con- 
tain from  15  to  40  potash  kettles,  under  each  of  vhich 
a  constant  fire  is  kept  up,  so  that  the  water  may  not 
cease  to  boil.  The  first  deposit  of  the  water  is  thrown 
away.  The  pure  salt  soon  after  makes  its  appearance, 
and  is  refined  for  the  table  by  means  of  blood,  milk, 
rosin,  &c.  The  springs  are  considered  as  inexhausti- 
ble ;  and  the  amount  of  salt  manufactured  at  Saiina, 
Liv^rpool,  Syracuse  and  Geddco,  in  1835,  was  2,282,- 
694  bushels,  on  which  there  was  a  duty  paid  of  $118,- 
364. 

Saiina  is  a  flourishing  village,  but  of  less  magnitude 
than  Syracuse ;  though,  from  tho  rapidly  increasing 
growth  of  both,  it  is  not  improbable  that  they  will  ere 
long  become  a  continuous  town.  A  fine  view  of  the 
Onondaga  Lake,  about  a  mile  distant,  is  had  from  the 
place.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  two  broad.  At  its  north- 
western extremity  is  seen  the  pleasant  village  of  Liver- 
pool, of  more  recent  origin,  but  promising  to  become  a 
place  of  some  importance.  Gypsum  and  petrifactions 
are  found  in  great  quantities  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake. 


OSWEGO  CANAL — GEDDES. 


243 


The  Oswego  canal,  from  Syracuse  to  Lake  Onta- 
rio at  Oswego,  is  38  miles  long,  including  20  miles  of 
the  Oswego  river,  on  which  are  several  locks  and  dams. 
The  whole  lockage  of  tho  canal  and  river  is  123  feet.* 

Geddes,  2  miles  by  canal  from  Syracuse,  is  becom- 
ing a  place  of  some  importance,  in  consequence  of  tho 
recent  discovery  of  several  valuable  salt  springs.  They 
are  mostly  within  a  few  rods  of  the  canal,  as  well  as 
numerous  establisliments  for  the  manufacture  of  salt. 
A  short  distance  west  of  the  village,  a  fine  prospect  is 
had  of  tho  Onondaga  lake  and  the  villages  of  Liver- 
pool and  Salina. 

Nine  Mile  Creek,  6  miles  from  Gcddes.  It  is  a 
stream  of  some  magnitude,  and  is  crossed  by  the  canal, 
over  two  arches. 

Camillus,  1  mile. 


tude 
sing 
1  ere 
the 
the 
Dfth- 
iver- 
ne  a 
ions 
ake. 


*  Packets  run  daily  between  Syracuse  and  Oswego, 
and  steam-boats  every  other  day  from  the  latter  place 
to  Lewi&ton,  7  miles  below  Niagara  Falls.  The  inter- 
mediate distances  on  the  canal  are  as  follow  : 


Miles. 
From  Syracuse  to  Sa- 
lina,   2 

Liverpool, 3 

Cold  Spring, 3 

New  Bridge, 5 

Three  Rivers  Point, .  2 


Miles, 

Phoenix,..  •. «.  2 

Sweet's  Lock, 3 

Ox  creek, 3 

Fulton, 4 

Brad  Jock's  Rapid, ...  4 

Tiffany's  Landing,  . .  4 

High  Dam, 1 


Oswego, 3 

The  scenery  is  interesting — surpassing  any  of  the 
same  extent,  with  few  exceptions,  on  tlie  Erie  canal. 


244 


CAJAL   UOUTB. 


Canton,  a  small  village,  5  miles. 

Peru,  2  miles. 

Jordan,  4  miles.  A  short  distance  east  of  the  vil* 
lage,  the  canal  crosses  the  Jordan  creek. 

Weed's  Port,  6  miles.  A  thriving  village  of  about 
120  houses.  A  stage  can  be  taken  here  daily  for  Au- 
burn, 7  miles  south,    {See  p.  216.) 

Centre  Port,  1  mile. 

Port  Btron,  2  miles.  The  canal  here  crosses  the 
Owasco  creek,  a  stream  issuing  from  a  lake  of  that 
name,  two  miles  south  of  Auburn.  The  state  prison  is 
erected  on  the  bank  of  this  creek,  the  waters  of  which 
are  used  for  propelling  the  machinery. 

Five  miles  farther  are  the  Montezuma  salt  works, 
about  I  of  a  mile  north  of  the  canal,  with  a  lateral  cut 
leading  thereto ;  one  mile  from  which  is  the  small  vil- 
lage of 

Lake  Port.  The  western  section  of  the  canal  (con- 
tradistinguished from  the  middle  and  eastern  sections) 
commences  at  this  place.  From  Utica  to  Lake  Port, 
the  mean  descent  of  the  canal  is  45  feet ;  and  there  are 
9  locks,  ascending  and  descending.  From  Lake  Port 
to  Lockport  the  ascent  is  1S5  feet,  and  the  number  of 
intervening  locks  21.  The  waters  of  the  canal  at  the 
former  place  are  remarkably  pure  and  chrystaline  in 
their  appearance,  not  unfrequently  exhibiting  largo 
quantities  of  fish  at  their  bottom. 


CLYDE — PALMIRA. 


245 


One  niilo  from  Lake  Port,  the  canal  enters  the  Mon- 
tezuma marshes,  3  miles  in  extent.  These  marshes 
are  formed  by  the  outlets  bf  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca 
lakes,  and  exhibit  a  most  dreary,  desolate  and  stagnant 
appearance.  The  water  is  generally  from  4  to  8  feet 
deep,  and  the  bottom  covered  with  long  grass,  the  usu- 
al growth  of  swamns,  extending  frequently  to  ihe  sur- 
face. A  long  bridge  is  used  for  a  tow-path  over  a  part 
of  these  marshes.  Shortly  after  leaving  them,  the  ca- 
nal crosses  and  uniteu  with  the  outlet  of  the  Canandai- 
gua  lake,  a  sluggish  streaia,  which,  with  the  outlets  of 
Cayuga  and  Seneca,  socn  form  the  Seneca  river,  which 
enters  and  constitutes  a  considerable  part  of  the  Oswe- 
go river. 

Clyde,  11  miles  from  Lake  Port,  is  a  flourishing  vil- 
lage, containing  glass  works.  From  thence  to  Lyons, 
a  handsome  village,  containing  a  court  house,  jail,  bank 
and  about  250  dwellings,  is  9  miles  ;  and  from  thence 
to  LocKviLLE  6  miles,  to  Newark  1  mile,  and  to  Port 
Gibson  3  miles. 


Palmyra,  8  miles  farther,  is  a  thriving  village  in 
Wayne  county.  It  is  built  chiefly  on  a  wide  street, 
along  the  south  S?"  ^k  of  the  canal,  and  contains  be- 
tween 2  and  300  dwellings.  Mud  creek  runs  eastward 
about  40  rods  north  of  the  main  street,  and  the  canal 
passes  between  the  creek  and  the  atreet.  There  are 
several  factories  and  mills  on  this  creek.  Palmyra  and 
Port  Gibson  are  landing  places  for  goods  designed  for 
Canandaigua. 

Fair  Port,  1 1  miles. 


246 


CAXAL   ROUTE. 


Fullom's  EasiN)  12  miles.    From  this  place  to  Ro- 
chester, by  cunal,  is  16milej> ,  while  the  distance  by 
land  is  but  7|.  Travellers,  accordingly,  who  have  seen 
the  Great  Emhankment  over  the  Irondequoit  creek,  fre- 
quently take  a  stage,  to  shorten  the  excursion ;  but 
those  who  have  never  passed  over  this  artificial  work, 
should  continue  on  the  canal  route.   The  embankment 
is  reached  in  about  4  miles  from  Fullom's  Basin,  and  is 
continued  for  nearly  two  miles,  at  an  average  height  of 
about  70  feet.    The  novelty  of  a  passage  at  so  great 
an  elevation  is  much  increased  in  the  fine  prospect  af- 
forded of  the  surrounding  country.    Two  miles  from 
the  embankment  is  the  handsome  village  of 

PiT'iSPORD,  containing  about  100  houses  and  seve- 
ral stores ;  and  10  miles  farther  is  the  flourishing  and 
important  city  of 

ROCHESTER.* 

It  is  situated  on  the  east  and  west  side  of  the  Gene- 
see river,  which,  at  this  place,  is  50  yards  wide,  and  is 
crossed  by  two  substantial  bridges  within  the  limits  of 
the  city.  On  the  north  side  of  the  lower  bridge,  the 
leal  distinctions  of  East  and  West  Rochester  have 
been  in  a  measure  annihilated,  by  the  erection  of  the 
Market  and  Exchange  buildings  over  the  Genesee, 
making  the  twain  a  continued   town.     Within  its 


*  For  a  description  of  Rochester  and  the  surround- 
ing country,  the  editor  is  principally  indebted  to  Ltman 
B.  Lanowortht,  Esq.  of  that  place. 


gf 
Pi 

01 


ROCHESTER. 


247 


limits  are  two  of  the  six  falls  on  the  river ;  the  upper  a 
small  fall  of  12  feet  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  and  imme- 
diately above  the  canal  aqueduct ;  and  the  other  the 
great  fall  of  97  feet,  about  80  rods  below.  From  a 
point  of  rock  above  the  centre  of  these  falls,  at  the  foot 
of  a  small  island,  the  colebr>»*eH  Sam  Patch  made  his 
last  and  fatal  leap  in  the  autumn  of  1829.  From  a 
scaffold  elevated  25  feet  above  the  table  rock,  making 
the  entire  height  125  feet,  he  fearlessly  and  carelessly 
precipitated  himself  into  the  abyss  beneath.  He  did 
not  rise  at  that  time  to  the  surface ;  nor  was  his  body 
found  until  the  following  spring,  when  it  was  discover- 
ed at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  river,  6  miles  below. 

From  a  complete  wilderness,  Rochester  has  been  re- 
deemed in  the  comparatively  short  period  of  about  25 
years,  the  first  settlement  having  been  made  in  1812. 
Its  situation  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  canal,  and 
only  7  miles  from  Lake  Ontario,  with  a  ship  navigation 
within  two  miles  of  the  iown,  and  a  rail  road  connected 
with  the  Erie  canal  at  the  east  end  of  the  aqueduct, 
enable  its  inhabitants  to  select  a  market  cither  at  New- 
York,  Ctuebec,  or  on  the  borders  of  the  great  western 
lakes  ;  and  the  many  other  natural  advantages  which 
it  enjoys  for  trade  and  manufactures,  destines  it  to  be- 
come one  of  the  most  important  places  in  the  interior 
of  the  state.    The  population  of  Rochester  in  1825  was 
5278  ;  in  1830,  9269  ;  and  in  1835,  14,404.    The  Eric 
canal  strikes  the  river  in  the  south  part  of  the  city,  and 
after  following  the  eastern  bank  for  half  a  mile,  crosses 
the  river  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  in  an  aqueduct,  which 
w 


84S 


CANAL  ROUTE. 


cost  rising  of  $80,000.*    This  aqueduct  is  constructed 
of  red  free  stone,  and  from  the  eastern  extremity  of  its 
parapet  walls  to  the  western  termination,  is  804  feet 
long.    It  is  built  on  1 1  arches,  one  of  26,  one  of  30,  and 
9  of  50  feet  chord,  under   which   water  passes  for 
flouring  mills  and  other  hydraulic  establishments.  The 
piers,  which  are  placed  on  solid  rock,  in  the  bed  of  the 
river,  are  4),  and  the  arches  resting  thereon  11  feet 
high.    On  the  north  wall,  which  is  of  sufficient  thick- 
ness for  the  towing  path,  is  an  iron  railing ;  and  at  the 
west  end,  the  whole  is  terminated  by  a  highway  and 
towing  path  bridge,  of  the  most  solid  and  elegant  work- 
manship.   The  canal  is  supplied  by  a  navigable  feeder 
from  the  Genesee,  which  it  enters  within  the  limits  of 
the  city,  and  through  which  boats  may  enter  and  as- 
cend the  river  from  70  to  90  milefs.f     It  has,  indeed, 
been  recently  ascertained  that  the  river  is  navigable  for 
steam  boats  of  light  burthen  ;  and  a  boat  has  been 
built  by  a  company  for  that  purpose.   The  height  of  the 
canal  at  Rochester  above  the  tide  waters  of  the  Hudson 
is  501  feet ;  above  Lake  Ontario,  270  feet  j  and  below 
Lake  Erie,  64  feet. 

*  The  new  aqueduct,  now  constructing,  is  to  be  com- 
posed of  limestone  from  the  Onondaga  quarries,  to  be 
much  increased  in  its  dimensions,  and  to  cost  about 
$500,000. 

t  The  construction  of  tiie  Genesee  Valley  canal  was 
authorized  by  the  legislature  in  1836.  It  is  to  extend 
from  Rochester  to  Olean  Point  on  the  Alleghany  river, 
about  100  miles  in  a  southerly  direction  ;  a  considera- 
ble proportion  of  which  will  consist  of  slack  water  in 
the  Genesee  river,  by  means  of  locks  and  dams. 


,\    ^^ 


Wl^fcii  'i,f>r:'j  ul^'it.ii.tSloJlS'fi- 


,^^, 


■^i-Tr^;  -^77rv7"'?>*T  J^JgW^fr; 


ROCHESTER. 


249 


slructcd 
y  of  its 
04  feet 
30,  and 
ses  for 
ts.  Tlio 
d  of the 
II  feet 
t  thick- 
d  at  the 
ay  and 
t  work- 
i  feeder 
imits  of 
and  as- 
indeed, 
able  for 
IS  been 
t of the 
ludson 
below 


e  coni- 
to  be 
about 

il  was 
!Xtend 
river, 
idera- 
ter  ia 


Among  tho  public  buildings  in  the  city,  arc  a  court 
house,  15  churches,  3  markets,  3  banks,  (one  of  which 
is  very  splendid,)  and  a  museum,  together  with  two 
valuable  institutions,  tho  Franklin  Institute  and  Athe- 
ncum.  There  are  also  several  extensive  cotton  and 
woollen  manufactories,  together  with  various  opera- 
tions in  iron  and  wood,  suited  to  the  wants  of  a  great 
and  growing  country.  The  Globe  buildings,  a  majes- 
tic pile,  rising  from  the  water's  edge,  5  stories,  exclu- 
sive of  attics,  with  between  130  and  140  apartments 
suitable  for  workshops,  and  several  stores,  wore  de- 
Btroyed  by  fire  in  tho  winter  of  1834,  and  rebuilt  tlie 
following  year.  The  principal  public  houses  are  the 
Rochester  House,  Clinton  House,  Eagle  Tavern,  Man- 
sion House,  Arcade  House,  Monroe  House,  and  City 
Hotel.  There  are  also  two  daily  and  several  weekly 
newspapers. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  city  are  more  than  20  flour- 
ing mills,  containing  nearly  100  run  of  stones,  capable 
of  manufacturing  more  than  5000  barrels  of  flour  and 
consuming  more  than  20,000  bushels  of  wheat  every 
24  hours.  Some  of  the  mills  are  on  a  scale  of  magni- 
tude perhaps  not  equalled  in  the  world.  One  of  them 
contains  more  than  four  acres  of  flooring,  and  all  are 
considered  unrivalled  in  the  perfection  of  their  machine- 
ry. Indeed,  so  powerful  and  complete  is  the  whole 
flouring  apparatus,  that  there  are  several  single  run  of 
stones  which  grind,  and  the  machinery  connected 
therewith,  bolt  and  pack  100  barrels  of  flour  per  day. 

The  Arcade  is  100  feet  in  front,  135  feet  in  depth, 
and  four  stories  high,  exclusive  of  the  attic  and  base- 
ment.   It  has  6  stories  in  front,  with  a  large  opening 


250 


TONBWANDA  RAIL  ROAD. 


for  a  passage  to  the  Arcade^  where  the  post  office,  Athe- 
ncum,  Arcade  Housc,and  a  variety  of  offices  arc  located. 
From  the  centre  arises  an  observatory  in  the  form  of  a 
Chinese  Pagoda,  which  overlooks  the  surrounding 
country  ;  and  in  clear  weather  the  lake  can  be  seen  like 
a  strip  of  blue  cloud  in  tho  horizon.  The  front  of  this 
edifice  is  stuccoed,  in  imitation  of  marble,  except  tho 
first  story,  which  is  of  tho  Oswego  red  free  stone. 

The  geological  structure  of  this  region  can  be  easily 
traced,  and  is  beautifully  illustrated  in  the  banks  of  tho 
river,  which  are  from  100  to  200  feet  in  height,  with  a 
descent  of  270  feet  to  the  lake.  At  Carthage,  two 
miles  below,  are  a  great  variety  of  petrifactions,  which 
have  been  blasted  from  the  rocks  in  forming  a  canal  for 
mill  privileges.  Seven  miles  from  Rochester,  a  part  of 
the  way  on  the  ridge  road,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
is  Irondequoit  bay,  with  a  high  sand  ridge  running 
across  it,  except  about  two  rods,  where  there  is  a  chan- 
nel ;  the  shore  is  fine  and  sandy,  and  equals  any  in 
America  for  bathing.  The  bay  is  also  celebrated  for 
fishing  and  fowling. 

TheToNEWANDA  Rail  RoAD,from  Rochester  to  Ba- 
tavia,  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  has  already  been 
noticed  at  pages  194  and  229.  It  is  over  a  remarkably 
level  country,  requiring  but  slight  acclivities,  and  con- 
sists of  a  single  track  only,  with  occasional  turn-outs. 
It  is  constructed  mainly  of  heavy  timbers,  taken  from 
the  adjacent  forests,  placed  longitudinally  in  the  earth 
— the  surface  levelled,  and  an  oak  ribbond,  or  thin 
piece  of  scantling,  placed  thereon,  surmounted  by  an 
iron  plate  of  tho  usual  thickness.  It  has  proved  an 
economical  mode  of  structure — the  entire  cost,  includ- 


ROCHES  "ZR. 


251 


ing  fixtures,  carriages,  and  engines,  having  been  only 
about  $10,000  per  mile.  The  time  employed  in  going 
over  the  road,  32  miles  in  extent,  is  about  two  hours — 
fare  $1,50.  [From  Batavia  a  railroad  is  soon  to  be 
constructed  to  Buffalo,  as  noticed  at  p.  230.] 

A  rail  road  is  also  to  be  completed  in  a  short  timo 
from  Rochester  to  Charlotte,  the  mouth  of  the  Qene- 
see,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  to  avoid  the  unpleas- 
ant  navigation  up  the  river,  and  the  rugged  ascent  from 
Carthage.  Length  of  the  proposed  road,  7  miles — 
ascent,  about  220  feet. 

Stages  leave  Rochester  daily  for  Niagara  Falls.  81 
miles  distant,  by  way  of  Lewiston,  passing  over  the 
ridge  road;*  and  the  rail  road  and  stage  lino  can  be 
taken  twice  a  day  for  Buffalo,  by  way  of  Batavia,  72 
miles. 

Packet  Boats  also  leave  Rochester  every  morning 
for  Buffalo  and  Utica. 

The  Lake  Ontario  Steam-Boats  have  heretofore 
touched  at  Carthage,  two  miles  below  Rochester,  af- 
fording a  passage  every  other  day  to  Lewiston  and 
Clueenston,  on  the  Niagara  river,  and  to  Ogdensburgh 
and  Prescott,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  as  well  as  the  inter- 
mediate ports  on  the  lake.  So  much,  however,  has  the 
travel  by  this  mode  of  conveyance  been  augmented 


*  The  ridge  road  commences  2^  miles  from  Roches- 
ter, over  which  the  following  arc  the  intervening  dis- 
tances between  that  place  and  Buffalo  :  Carthage  Falls 
2  miles,  Parma  9,  Clarkson  7,  Murray  7,  Ridgeway  15, 
Hartland  10,  Cambria  12,  Lewiston  12,  Niagara  Falls 
7,  Buffalo  22. 

w2 


252 


CANAL  ROUTE. 


within  a  year  or  two,  that  a  daily  line  will  probably  be 
run  hereafter.  [This  route  is  more  fully  noticed  under 
the  head  of  Lake  Ontario.] 

Before  leaving  Rochester,  (unless  the  ridge  road  or 
steam  boat  route  should  be  taken,)  the  traveller  will 
find  it  an  object  of  interest  to  visit 

Carthage,  2  miles  down  the  Genesee  river.    This 
village  derived  its  consequence  fro^.n  an  elegant  bridge, 
which,  during  its  existence,  formed  the  most  eligible 
route  to  the  western  part  of  the  state.     The  bridge  was 
erected  across  the  river  just  below  the  basin  of  the  falls, 
which  are  70  feet.    It  consisted  of  a  single  arch,  whoso 
chord  measured  300  feet.    The  distance  from  the  cen- 
tre to  the  river  was  250  feet.    This  stupendous  fabric 
stood  a  short  time  after  its  construction,  but  at  length 
fell  under  the  pressure  of  its  own  weight.    One  of  the 
abutments  is  still  stciiidmg ;    and  from  its  situation, 
visitants  may  judge  of  the  former  position  of  the  bridge, 
and  the  almost  impious  presumption  of  man  in  attempt- 
ing to  overcome  height,  space,  gravity,  and  the  resist- 
less fury  of  the  elements.    Vessels  from  the  lake,  5 
miles  distant,  ascend  up  the  river  to  these  falls,  where 
they  are  laden  and  unladen  by  means  of  an  inclined 
plane — the  descending  weight  being  made  to  raise  a 
lighter  one  by  its  superior  gravity. 

A  rail  road  from  Rochester  ends  here,  and  is  con- 
nected W't^  the  navigation  of  the  Lake — the  carriages 
both  for  passengers  and  for  burthen  passing  up  and 
down  every  half  hour. 

The  great  western  level  on  the  canal  commences  two 
miles  east  of  Rochester ;  from  whence  to  Lockport  a 
distance  of  65  miles,  there  is  no  lock.    Several  new 


ALBION — MEDINA. 


253 


bridge, 


and  flourishing  villages  have  sprung  up  since  the  con- 
struction of  the  canal ;  and  the  period  cannot  be  dis- 
tant when  the  whole  country  between  the  two  places 
will  contain  a  dense  population. 

Brock  way's  Basin  is  10  miles  from  Rochester ;  from 
whence  to  Spencer's  Basin,  a  small  village,  is  2  miles. 
Adam's  Basin  is  3  miles  farther ;  from  whence  to  Coo- 
ley's  Basin  is  3  miles,  and  to 

Brockport  8  miles.  This  is  a  fine,  thriving  vil- 
lage, containing  between  3  and  400  houses,  about  2500 
inhabitants,  12  or  14  respectable  stores,  3  churches,  a 
seminary  of  learning,  and  all  the  other  concomitants  of 
a  neat  and  industrious  town.  At  this  place  are  annu- 
ally purchased  from  4  to  500,000  bushels  of  wheat  for 
the  Rochester  mills. 

IIoLLEYj  a  beautiful  and  thriving  little  village,  5 
miles.  A  short  distance  east  of  the  village  is  the  Holley 
Embankment  and  culvert,  over  Sandy  creek,  elevating 
the  canal  87  feet  above  the  level  of  the  creek. 

Scio,  4  miles. 

Albion,  10  miles  :  n  pleasant  and  improving  village, 
with  a  bank,  court  bouse,  jail,  230  dwellings,  and  about 
2000  inhabitants.  It  has  some  mill  privileges,  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  fine  agricultural  country.  Eight  miles 
farther,  in  the  town  of  Ridgeway,  a  public  road  passes 
under  the  canal,  through  a  handsome  arch  ;  one  mile 
from  which,  is  the  village  of 

Medina,  on  the  bank  of  Oak  Orchard  creek.  It  con- 
tains about  250  dwellings  and  2000  inhabitants,  who 
derive  much  advantage  from  the  water  privileges  af- 
forded by  the  creek,  and  from  the  rich  and  fertile  coun- 


*l 


r 


234 


CANAL  ROUTE. 


try  in  the  vicinity.  The  village  is  in  a  thriving  condi- 
tion, and  bids  fair  to  become  a  place  of  some  importance. 
The  canal  here  crosses  the  creek  over  the  largest  arch 
on  the  whole  route.  There  are  circular  steps  leading 
to  the  bottom  ;  from  whence  is  a  foot  path  passing  un- 
derneath and  leading  to  the  village.  As  the  boat 
"  waits  for  no  man,"  passengers  desirous  of  seeing  this 
artificial  work,  should  go  ashore  before  reaching  it,  and 
gain  time  by  a  rapid  'walk.  They  can  bo  received  on 
board  again  at  the  village,  where  the  boat  stops  to  land 
and  receive  passengers. 

MiDDLEPORT,  6  miles. 

Gasport,  5  miles.  It  derives  its  name  from  an  in- 
flammable spring,  which  rises  in  the  canal  basin  at  the 
village. 

LocKPORT,  7  miles.  By  far  the  most  gigantic  works 
on  the  whole  hne  of  the  canal  are  at  this  place.  After 
travelHng  between  60  and  70  miles  on  a  perfect  level, 
the  traveller  here  strikes  the  foot  of  the  "  Mountain 
Ridge,"  which  is  surmounted  by  5  magnificent  locks  of 
12  feet  each,  connected  with  5  more  of  equal  dimen- 
sions for  descending — so  that  while  one  boat  is  raised 
to  an  elevation  of  60  feet,  another  is  seen  sinking  into 
the  broad  basin  below.  The  lock  are  of  the  finest  im- 
aginable workmanship,  with  stone  steps  in  the  centre 
and  on  either  side,  guarded  with  iron  railings,  for  the 
convenience  and  safety  of  passengers.  Added  to  this 
stupendous  work,  an  excavation  is  continued  through 
the  mountain  ridge,  composed  of  rock,  a  distance  of 
three  miles,  at  an  average  depth  of  20  feet.  When 
viewing  this  part  of  the  canal,  we  are  amazed  with  the 


BUFFALO. 


255 


consiileration  of  what  may  be  accomplished  by  human 
means. 

The  village  of  Lock  port  is  partly  located  on  the 
mountain  ridge,  immediately  above  the  locks,  and  part- 
ly below  J  and  though  "founded  on  a  rock,"  surround- 
ed with  rocks,  and  with  little  or  no  soil,  it  has  already 
become  a  place  of  much  importance.    In  1821,  there 
were  but  2  houses  in  the  place ;  now  there  are  500, 
and  upwards  of  4000  inhabitants.    The  villagfe  also 
contains  7  churches,  a  bank,  court  house  and  jail,  and 
several  commodious  public  houses.     The  canal  here 
being  on  the  highest  summit  level,  and  supplied  with 
water  from  Lake  Erie,  (distant  30  miles,)  an  abundance 
is  obtained  for  hydraulic  purposes,  affording  to  the  vil- 
lage a  lasting  and  permanent  power  for  mills  and  man- 
ufactories of  various  kinds. 

A  rail  road  is  now  nearly  finished  from  Lockport  to 
Niagara  Falls  ;  so  that  passengers  desirous  of  visiting 
that  place  will  leave  the  canal  at  Lockport. 

Seven  miles  from  Lockport,  at  Pendleton,  the  canal 
enters  the  Tonncwanta  creek,  and  continues  therein  12 
miles  to  its  mouth,  at  Tonawan da,  where  is  a  dam  4i 
feet  high.  From  thence  it  is  continued  on  the  bank  of 
the  Niagara  8  miles  to  Black  Rock,  (noticed  in  a  sub- 
sequent page)  v'  re  it  unites  with  the  harbor,  and 
from  thence  on  the  bank  of  the  river  3  miles,  to  the 
city  of 


BUFFALO, 

Which  is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie.    It  is  a 
beautiful  and  thriving  town,  and  with  the  advantages  of" 
both  a  natural  and  artificial  navigation,  is  destined  to 


I 


256 


BUFFALO. 


become  ono  of  the  most  important  places  in  the  state. 
Its  present  population  is  estimated  at  about  18,000,  and 
the  number  of  buildings  at  nearly  2500.    The  Erie  ca- 
nal commences  in  this  village,  near  the  outlet  of  the 
Buffalo  creek,  and  pnsses  through  an  extensive  and  per- 
fectly level  plot,  equidistant  from  the  shore  of  the  lake 
and  the  high  grounds  called  the  Terrace.    From  the 
canal  are  cut,  at  very  suitable  distances,  lateral  canals 
and  basinSy  ren tiering  the  whole  of  what  has  heretofore 
been  termed  the  loioer  foion,  contiguous  to  water  com- 
munication.   Stores  and  ware-houses  are  so  construct- 
ed as  to  receive  the  boats  along  side.    In  its  location, 
Buffalo  is  in  the  midst  of  the  enterprize  and  business  of 
this  new  world.    All  the  manufactures  and  migrating 
population  from  the  north  and  east  here  find  a  resting 
place,  and  the  agricultural  products  of  the  westf  coming 
from  the  long  extended  lakes,  here  seek  a  new  avenue 
to  the  Atlantic.    At  the  Terrace,  which  was  formerly 
the  dividing  line  between  the  upper  and  lower  towns, 
but  which  are  now  rendered  continuous,  a  gentle  and 
equal  rise  of  ground  commences,  continuing  nearly  and 
perhaps  quite  two  miles,  and  then  falls  away  to  a  per- 
fect level  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  bounded  only  by 
the  horizon.    Upon  this  elevated  ground  there  is  a 
charming  view  of  the  lake,  Niagara  river,  the  canal 
with  its  branches,  the  Buffalo  creek,  the  town  itself, 
and  the  •  anada  shore  j  a  prospect  from  which  every 
one  parts  with  reluctance.    The  streets  are  very  broad, 
and  passing  from  the  high  grounds  over  the  Terrace  to 
the] water,  are  interscted  with  cross  streets.    There  are 
three  public  squares  of  some  extent,  which  add  much 
to  the  beauty  of  the  town.    The  public  buildings  are  a 


BUFFALO. 


257 


|he  state. 

,000,  and 
|£rio  ca- 

itofthe 

and  per- 
|the  lake 

om  the 
canals 
sretofore 
er  com- 
nstruct- 
ocation, 
ineas  of 
igrating 
resting 
coming 
avenue 
)rmerly 
towns, 
tie  and 
rly  and 
a  per- 
nlyby 
B  is  a 
canal 
itself, 
every 
)road, 
ice  to 
re  are 
much 
area 


court-house,  situated  on  the  highest  part  of  Main-street, 
well  proportioned  and  handsomely  ornamented,  with  a 
large  park  in  front,  enclored  and  sot  round  with  forest 
trees;  15  churches,  a  literary  and  scientific  academy, 
a  lyceum,  a  female  seminary  and  3  banks.  The  Uni- 
versity of  Western  New- York,  chartered  in  1836,  is 
now  erecting  in  the  city,  on  grounds  furnished  by  the 
corporation.  The  Presbyterian  meeting  house,  stand- 
ing near  the  Episcopal  church  upon  a  semi-circular 
common  on  Main-street,  is  an  edifice  of  very  command- 
ing appearance;  and  several  of  the  other  churches 
are  beautiful  specimens  of  architecture,  and  would  do 
credit  to  any  city  in  America. 

There  are  several  spacious  public  houses ;  among 
which,  the  American  Hotel  is  probably  not  surpass- 
ed by  any  in  the  United  States,  either  as  to  size,  furni- 
ture or  the  style  in  which  it  is  kept.  The  Eagle  Tav- 
ern, Buffalo  House  and  Citt  Hotel  are  also  exten- 
sive and  highly  respectable  establishments,  and  share 
liberally  in  the  public  patronage. 

The  place  (then  a  village)  was  burnt  by  the  British 
in  1814,  when  there  was  but  one  house  left  standing. 
This  is  still  pointed  out  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town. 
It  was  not  until  considerable  time  had  elapsed  after 
this,  that  Buffalo  began  to  be  rebuilt,  nor  until  the  canal 
was  located,  did  it  rise  with  much  promise.  It  is  now 
a  city,  having  been  incorporated  as  such  in  1832,  I- 
rapidly  rising  into  importance,  and  will  become  inevi- 
tably the  Liverpool  of  Western  New- York.  Five  years 
have  made  more  improvements  in  that  place  than  in 
any  other  town  of  the  west.  A  ship  canal  80  feet  wide 
and  13  feet  deep,  extends  across  from  the  harbor,  near 


258 


BUFFALO. 


! 


m     i 


the  outlet  of  BunUlo  creek,  to  the  canal,  a  distance  of 
about  700  yards  ;  and  a  boat  canal  from  the  Big  Buffa- 
lo creek  to  tho  Little  Buffalo  creeL,  a  distance  of  1,800 
feet.    A  rail  road  has  also  bcv^tn  constructed  to  Black 
Rock,  and  from  thence  to  Niagara  Falls.    Withjn  a 
short  period,  several  blocks  of  extensive  stores  and 
warehouses  have  been  erected,  and  the  commerce  of 
the  place  has  i; creased  at  an  unexampled  rate.    Be- 
tween forty  as>  J  ii»'ty  f<tcs«  ii^boats  ply  betw»?en  the  city 
and  various  places  on  the  ■:  I.e..    A  morning  and  even- 
ing boat  leave  the  harbor  da?iy  ikiX  Detroit,  and  addi- 
tional boats  are  building  whiot    vili  even  increase  tho 
facilities  of  communjcation.     A  large  number  of  square 
rigged  schooners  whitcw.  the  lake  with  their  canvass, 
an 'J  bear  to  and  from  Buflalo  immense  quantities  of 
merchandize  and  agricultural  products. 

As  iiiH  place  was  ti^G  theatre  of  important  events 
during  the  last  war,  the  writer  had  expected  to  find  in 
the  city  chu*  c!i  ycrds  some  monuments  to  the  memory 
of  the  brave  who  fell  during  that  period.  But  ho  dis- 
covered only  oRe ;  it  contained  the  following  inscrip- 
tion :  '^  To  the  memory  of  Maj.  Wm.  Howe  Cuyleh, 
who  was  killed  at  Black  Rock  by  a  shot  from  the  ene- 
my, on  the  night  of  the  9th  October,  1812,  while  hu- 
manely admhiistering  to  the  relief  of  the  wounded  sol- 
diers, who  intrepidly  crossed  to  the  British  shore,  and 
brought  0'  or  the  Adams  frigate,  that  had  been  surren- 
dered by  Gv  ..  Hull,  and  the  Caledonia  ship  belonging 
to  the  enemj'.  He  was  in  the  35th  year  of  his  age,  and 
son  of  the  late  Hoary  Cuyler,  Esq.  of  Grecnbush,  iu 
this  state." 


f. 


THE  WESTERN  LAKES. 


259 


The  Sencco-  Village^  settled  by  about  900  Indians, 
principally  St:  ■' ocas,  with  some  Onondagas  and  Cayu- 
gari  dw^^llini.*'  ?.:.ion^st  them,  is  from  3  to  4  miles  south 
east  of  BulHilo.  They  own  49,000  acres,  reaching  to 
the  very  bounds  of  the  city,  a  greater  part  of  which  is 
Juxuriantlv  fei  ■  lie.  A  mission  is  established  on  the  re- 
servatioMv  and  a  school  kept  for  the  instruction  of  In- 
dian 'hildren.  Near  the  Seneca  Village  is  a  sulphur 
spring,  which  is  much  resorted  to  during  the  summer 
season. 

THE  WESTERN  LAKES. 

Before  proceeding  down  the  Niagara  river  to  the 
Falls,  it  may  be  interesting  to  tourists  to  examine  a 
brief  description  of  the  great  chain  of  lakes  whoso  wa- 
ters flow  through  this  channel.  It  will  give  a  more 
adequate  idea  of  the  vast  amount  of  waters  which  are 
united  in  this  stupendous  river.  We  will  also  append 
to  this  description  a  notice  of  the  most  prominent 
towns  on  the  Lakes,  with  a  sketch  of  the  routes  to 
each. 


Il 


Laice  Superior,  the  first  and  westernmost  of  these 
inland  seat,  lies  between  46®  and  49"  of  north  latitude, 
and  betwe»^n  84"  and  93"  west  longitude  from  London. 
Its  length  is  459,  and  its  average  width  109  miles. 
About  40  small  and  3  large  r'vers  enttr  nto  this  lake, 
on  ore  of  which,  just  beibrc  .3  eiiLiTticc,  are  pernen- 
djcular  falls  of  n^ore  tl\  oOO  feet.  Th;.  vate*-  of  the 
lake  is  remarkably  transparent,  so  much  so,  that  a  c  i- 
noe  over  a  depth  of  six  fathoms  seems  ratlier  suspend- 
ed in  air  than  ;  isting  on  the  water.    The  outlet  of  the 


**.;■■ 


860 


LAKB   MlCillOAN. 


lake  is  called  tho  river  St.  Mario,  which  is  00  miles 
long,  its  waters  flowing  into 

Lake  Hurok.  This  lake  is  on  tho  boundary  bo< 
tween  tho  U.  States  and  Canada,  218  miles  long  from 
cast  to  west,  and  180  broad.  Besides  tho  waters  of 
Luke  Superior,  it  receives  tho  waters  of 

Lake  MicHiOA>f,  which  i^  300  miles  long  and  about 
50  miles  wide.  At  its  northwest  corner  a  largo  inlet 
opens,  called  Green  Bay,  about  100  miles  lonpf,  and 
from  15  to  20  broad,  into  which  Fox  river  empties. 
Three  miles  from  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  Green  Bay 
village,  a  very  considerable  settlement,  and  a  U.  States 
military  post,  called  Fort  Howard.  The  fort  is  built  of 
stone,  and  is  on  a  beautiful  rise  of  ground.  Steam-boata 
from  Buffalo  visit  this  place  occasionally  during  the 
summer — distance  807  miles.  Beside  the  Fox,  the  St. 
Joseph  and  Grand,  two  very  important  rivers,  and  in- 
numerable smaller  streams,  discharge  tlicir  waters  into 
Lake  Michigan. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  straits  which  unite  the  Michi- 
gan with  tho  Huron  Lake,  and  within  the  latter,  is  the 
island  of  Michilimackinac,  commonly  called  Mackinaw, 
distinguished  as  a  military  post  during  the  French  war, 
and  occupied  as  such  by  the  government  of  the  U.  S. 
at  the  present  time.  The  island  is  about  9  miles  in  cir- 
cumference ;  the  village  of  Mackinaw,  which  is  on  its 
south  east  side,  is  surrounded  with  a  steep  cliff  150  feet 
high.  On  the  top  of  this  cliff  stands  a  fort ;  half  a  mile 
from  which,  on  another  summit,  300  feet  above  the  lev- 
el of  the  lake,  is  Fort  Holmes,  comr  anding  an  exten- 


.'ROM  OCrrALO  TO  DETROIT. 


261 


sivo  prospect  oi'  holli  iakns.  Mackinaw  in  180  miles 
NE.  of  Fort  Howard,  313  N.  of  Detroit,  and  027  NW. 
of  Buffalo. 

Tho  waters  of  tlioKO  lakes  thus  congregated,  enter 
ibo  St.  Clair  river,  40  milos  long,  to  tho  St.  Clair  Luke, 
which  is  about  90  miles  in  eireumfironcc.  From  this 
lake  they  enter  tlio  Detroit  river,  on  which  tlio  city  of 
Detroit  stands,  1)  miles  below  tlic  lake,  and  communi- 
cate with  Lake  Erie,  19  miles  from  Detroit. 

Lake  ERi»i:  is  on  the  boundary  lino  between  the  U.S. 
and  Upper  Canada.  It  is  290  miles  loiig  from  SW.  to 
NE.,  and  in  the  widest  part,  63  broad.  IJcsides  the 
waters  of  tho  upper  lakes,  it  receives  the  Cuyahoga 
river  and  several  tributary  streams. 

Such  arc  the  sources  of  the  Niagara  ;  a  river  infe- 
rior in  splendor  to  none,  perhaps,  in  the  world. 

Travellers  designing  a  tour  through  the  Lakes  or  to 
the  western  states,  without  returning  to  Buffalo,  will, 
as  a  matter  of  course,  visit  Niagara  Falls,  20  miles 
north  of  the  city,  before  commencing  the  steam  boat 
excursion.  We  will,  however,  in  imagination,  convey 
the  tourist  to  some  of  the  prominent  points  on  the 
Lakes— return  to  BuflUlo— proceed  to  the  Fails,  and 
from  thence  continue  the  northern  tour  to  its  consum- 
mation. 


FROM   BUFFALO  TO    DETROIT — 305  mileS. 

A  steam  boat,  of  which  there  are  several,  can  be  tak- 
en daily  from  BufTiilo  to  Detr-  i  fare  $8.  The  rime 
<MTiployed  in  passing  from  one  ».  ,,  c  the  other  is  i^bout 


I 


262 


PROM    BUFFALO   TO   DETROIT. 


36  hours.    The  intermediate  pla^'cs  \n  pi  >  ninence  and 
distances  are  as  follow  : 


Miles. 

Fairport, 32 

Cleveland, 30 

Sandusky, .  ,yk 

Cunnindiam's  Island  12 
North  Bass  Island, . .  10 
Middle  Sister  Island,  10 
Amherstburgh,  U.  C.  20 
Fighting  Island,.,..,  6 
Detroit,  Mich 12 


Miles. 
From  Buflfalo  to  Sf  nr- 
geon  Point,  N.  Y..  10 

Cattaraugus 10 

Dunkirk, 13 

Van  Buren, .,..,.,,    2 

Portland, 16 

Burycit's  Town,  Pen    i3 

Erie, 17 

Fairvicw, 11 

Ashtabula,  Ohio, ....  28 

Dunkirk,  N.  Y,,  is  at  present  a  small  village ;  but 
its  fine  harbor,  which  is  frequently  clear  of  ice  much 
earlier  in  the  season  than  the  Buffalo  harbor,  together 
with  the  termination  of  the  New- York  and  Erie  rail 
road  within  its  precincts,  will  soon  render  it  a  place  of 
much  commerce  and  importance. 

Van  Burgn,  2  miles  fa/ther,  is  a  new  and  flourish- 
ing village,  handsomely  laid  out,  and  is  destined  to  be 
a  place  of  considerable  trade. 

Portland,  16  miles. 

Burcett's  Town,  Penn.  18. 

Erie,  !7  miles  farther,  contains  a  court  house,  2 
banks,  5  churches,  and  about  2500  inhabitants,  and  in 
its  local  advantages  is  equalled  by  few  towns  '  the  in- 
terior. Besides  a  water  communication  wi'  all  the 
towns  on  the  western  lakes,  it  is  the  terminating  point 
of  the  Pennsj'  inia  canal,  which  connects  Philadel- 
phia and  Pittsburgh  with  Lake  Erie.  It  is  also  to  be 
the  terminating  point  of  the  Philadelphia,  Northumber- 


FROM    BUFFALO    TO    DETROIT, 


2G3 


mce  and 


Miles, 

•  •  •     oi 

...  30 

and  12 

1,..  10 

ind,  10 

.  C.  20 

.  c*  6 

...  12 


ge;  but 
CO  much 
together 
Erie  rail 
place  of 

flourish- 
ed to  be 


ouse,  2 
anrl  ill 
the  in- 
ill    he 
ig  point 
hiladel- 
30  to  be 
lumber- 


land  and  Erie  rail  road.    The  village  is  distant  from 
Pittsburgh  120  miles,  and  from  Philadelphia  380. 

Fairview,  11  miles. 

Ashtabula,  Ohio,  28  miles.    It  has  a  good  harbor 
and  is  a  thriving  village. 

Fairport,  32  miles,  is  located  at  the  junction  of 
Grand  river  with  the  lake. 

Cleveland,  30  miles.  It  is  the  capital  of  Cuyahoga 
county,  and  is  handsomely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a 
creek  of  that  name.  From  a  small  village,  it  has  with- 
in a  few  years  attained  an  astonishing  growth,  and  is 
r.^'W  one  of  tlic  "^lost  prominent  towns  in  the  state. 
This  may  be  attri'  'ted,  in  a  rcat  measure,  to  the  ter- 
mination of  the  OiL.o  and  Erk  canal  at  this  place — thus 
rendering  it  not  only  '^  point  of  great  commerce  with 
the  lake,  but  also  with  ciie  Ohio  river. 

The  entire  length  of  this  anal  is  307  miles.  Coai- 
mencing  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga,  568  feet  above 
the  Ohio  river,  it  follows  the  bank  of  that  river  37 
miles  ;  from  whence  it  crosses  Portage  summit  to  the 
Tuscarawas  river,  along  the  banks  of  which  it  descends 
to  the  Tomoka  creek.  Ascending  this  creek  for  a 
short  distance,  it  crosses  over  to  the  Licking  river,  a 
branch  of  the  Muskingum,  which  it  ascends  to  a  point 
on  the  South  Fork,  a  few  miles  south  of  Newark ; 
thence  it  crosses  over  to  Walnut  creek,  a  small  stream 
which  falls  into  the  Scioto  ;  after  reaching  that  river,  it 
descends  along  the  eastern  bank  to  Circleville,  and 
there  crosses  over  to  the  west  bank,  along  which  it  de- 
scends, passing  Chillicothe,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto 

x2 


2C4 


FROM  BUPFALO   TO   DETROIT. 


at  Portsmouth.  Thn  dimensions  arc  similar  to  those  of 
tho  N.  York  Eric  canal.  Lockage  11S5  feet.  Pack- 
ets run  daily  on  tho  cannl,  reacl-.ing  Portsmouth  in 
ahout  3i  days  ;  from  whence  steam-boats  arc  taken  for 
Cincinnati,  Louisville,  and  New-Orlcans.* 

From  Clcavcland  to  Sanduskt,  by  steam-boat,  the 
distance  is  54  miles.    Tho  village  is  handsomely  locat- 


♦To  travellers  who  design  an  excursion  to  Cincinnati, 
or  to  Columbus,  tho  scat  of  government  of  the  state, 
the  following  tabic  of  distances  on  this  canal  will  be 
useful ; 


Miles. 
From  Cleveland  to  the 
CuyahogaAqueduct,  22 

Old  Portage, ,..  12 

Akron, 4 

New -Portage, 5 

Clinton, 11 

Mazillo  w, 11 

Bethlehem, 6 

Bolivar, 8 

Zoar, 3 

Dover, 7 

N.Philadelphia, 4 

New-Comer's  town,..  22 


Miles. 

Irville, 26 

Newark,* 13 

Hebron, 10 

Licking  Summit, ....  5 

Lancaster  Canaan,...  11 

CoLUMDUs,  (side  cut,)  18 

Bloomfield, 8 

CiRCLEVILLE, 9 

Chillicothe, 23 

Piketon, 25 

Lucasville, 14 

Portsmouth,    (Ohio 
river,) 13 


Coshocton, 17 

From  Portsmouth,  the  distance  by  steam-boat  to 
Cincinnati  is  113  miles,  as  follows  :  Vanceburgh,  Ken. 
20— Manchester,  Ohio,  16— Maysville,  Ken.  11— 
Charleston,  Ken.  4 — Ripley,  Ohio,  6 — Augusta,  Ken. 
8 — Neville,  Ohio,  7 — Moscow,  Ohio,  7— Point  Pleas- 
ant, Ohio,  4 — New  Richmond,  Ohio,  7 — Columbia, 
Ohio,  15 — Fulton,  Ohio,  6— Cincinnati,  Ohio,  2.  From 
the  latter  place  to  Lousville,  Ken.,  the  distance  is  143 
miles  ;  from  thence  to  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  with  the 
Mississippi  river,  366 ;  and  from  thence  to  New-Or- 
leans, 1284  miles. 


FROM  BUFFALO  TO  DETROIT. 


265 


cd  on  the  south  ehorc  of  Sandusky  Bay,  3  miles  from 
jta  entrance,  and  is  a  flourishing  town.  A  rail  road  is 
constructing  from  this  place  to  Dayton,  on  the  Miami 
canal.  It  will  be  1  j3  miles  long,  and  when  completed, 
will  form  a  rail  road  and  water  communication  between 
Lake  Erie  and  the  Ohio  river. 

Amherstburgii,  U.  Canada,  (mouth  of  the  Detroit 
river)  52  miles.  It  was  more  particularly  known  dur- 
ing the  last  war  between  the  U.  S.  and  Great  Britain 
as  a  locality  of  some  importance  by  the  name  of  J^a/(2«n. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  shown  the  battlo 
ground  of  Brownstown,  where  the  Americans,  under 
disadvantageous  circumstances,  and  with  slight  a  loss, 
routed  the  British  force.  The  former  were  on  their 
way  to  relieve  the  fort  at  Frenchtown,  a  short  distance 
below  ;  and  in  a  narrow  pass,  where  escape  was  im- 
possible, the  British  were  posted  to  receive  them.  The 
artillery  of  the  latter  was  stationed  directly  in  front  on 
a  rise  commanding  the  road  ;  on  the  right  flank  were 
the  regulars  and  on  the  lefl  the  Indians,  secreted  in  the 
woods.  The  Americans,  under  Gen.  Miller,  approach- 
ed and  were  almost  entrapped  when  the  enemy  was 
discovered.  With  the  rapidity  of  thought  the  regulars 
were  charged  and  soon  driven  on  to  the  cannon — the 
cannoniers  afraid  to  apply  the  match  against  tlieir  own 
friends,  threw  away  their  linestocks  and  fled.  The 
Indian  opponents  were  soon  dispersed,  and  confusion 
and  total  flight  ensued.  The  Americans  collected  the 
spoil  and  pursued  their  way  ;  but  they  came  too  late. 
The  massacre  at  Frenchtown  had  been  perpetrated  ; 
and  the  bones  of  seven  hundred  of  the  noblest  sons  of 
Kentucky  lay  bleaching  on  the  earth,  the  victims  of 


266 


DETROIT. 


the  most  wanton  perfidy.    Their  fate,  however,  was 
soon  afterwards  avenged  at  the  battle  of  the  Thames. 


Detroit  is  18  miles  from  Amherstburgh.  In  natu- 
ral beauty  and  advantages  of  locality,  it  is  surpassed  by 
few  cities  at  the  west.  The  greater  part  of  the  town  is 
situated  on  a  bluff  terminating  a  few  feet  from  the  wa- 
ter, in  a  very  extensive  and  beautiful  plain.  As  the 
boat  approaches  the  city,  the  shores  display  a  succes- 
sion of  handsome  country  seats,  and  the  town  exhibits 
an  imposing  appearance.  Jefferson  Avenue,  extend- 
ing along  the  river  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  with 
its  neat  buildings,  shaded  with  forest  trees,  its  bus- 
tle, life  and  gay  equipages,  is  justly  the  pride  of  every 
inhabitant.  There  are  few  streets,  indeed,  in  any  city 
of  equal  beauty,  or  possessing  greater  interest.  For- 
merly, it  was  principally  lined  with  low  French  dwell- 
ings ;  but  these  have  given  place  to  those  of  modern 
style  and  improved  architecture.  The  business  and 
population  of  the  city,  and  the  value  of  real  estate,  have 
greatly  increased  within  2  or  3  years — many  lots  hav- 
ing been  sold  for  more  than  1000  per  cent,  above  their 
former  prices.  So  long  as  the  present  tide  of  emigra- 
tion shall  continue  to  Michigan,  Illinois  and  Wiscon- 
pin,  and  Detroit  remain  the  thoroughfare  of  this  mov- 
ing mass,  and  also  the  emporium  of  trade  for  all  the 
np^^er  lake  country,  it  must  of  necessity  increase  in 
wetilth  and  importance.  Its  present  population  is  from 
10  to  12,000. 

Stages  leave  Detroit  daily  for  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Joseph's  river,  emptying  into  Lake  Michigan,  distant 
202  miles  ;  from  whence  a  steam-boat  can  be  taken  for 


f 


DETROIT — ST.  JOSEPH. 


267 


Chicago,  Illinois,  92  miles  farther.  The  route,  by  land, 
is  over  what  is  termed  the  government  road,  and  passes 
thiDugh  the  village  of  La  Fayette,  12  miles  ;  Ypsalanti, 
20  miles  ;  Jonesvilie,  C8  miles  ;  Coldwatcr,  20  miles  ; 
Sturge's  Prairie,  25  miles;  Mottville,  17  miles;  from 
whence  to  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Joseph  is  40  miles. 
Most  of  the  villages  arc  new,  but  flourishing  ;  and  the 
forests  are  daily  giving  place  to  cultivation. 

The  town  of  St.  Joseph,  located  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  (which  is  navigable  for  steam-boats  for  50  miles) 
is  rapidly  increasing  in  population,  and  will  soon  be- 
come a  place  of  much  importance.  Its  harbor  is  good, 
and  it  has  been  selected  as  the  terminating  point  of  the 
public  improvements  which  are  to  extend  from  Detroit 
across  the  peninsula. 

Steam-boats  also  leave  Detroit  once  a  fortnight,  by 
way  of  Lake  Huron,  for  Chicago,  touching  on  the 
route  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Clair  river,  40  miles.  Palmer 
17,  Fort  Gratiot  14,  White  Rock  40,  Thunder  Island 
70,  Middle  Island  25,  Presque  Isle  65,  Mackinaw  58, 
Isle  Brule  75,  Fort  Howard  (Wisconsin  Territory)  100, 
and  Milwaukee  (W.  T.)  310  miles ;  from  whence  to 
Chicago  is  90  miles. 

But  the  more  common  route,  and  especially  for  those 
who  are  desirous  of  visiting  Detroit  as  well  as  Chicago, 
is  to  take  a  steam-boat  for  Toledo,  and  from  thence 
complete  the  excursion  by  rail  road,  stage  and  steam^ 
boat,  as  follows : 


i'l 


268 


TOLEDO — ADRIEN — TECUMSEH. 


FROM    DETROIT    TO   CHICAGO, 

Via  Toledo— 3Qd  miles. 


Miles, 
Nilos, 100 

Michigan  City,  (Ind.)  40 


JBy  steam-hoat. 
Chicago,  (Illinois,) , , 


55 


Miles. 
By  steam-hoat. 
Detroit  to  Toledo, ...  71 
By  rail  road.  * 

Adrien,  (Ohio,) 33 

By  stage. 
Tecumseh, 10 

ToLED0.7l  miles  from  Detroit,is  the  terminating  point 
of  the  steam  boat  passage.  It  is  located  on  the  Maumee 
river,  nine  miles  from  its  junction  with  Lake  Erie,  and 
is  within  what  has  heretofore  been  termed  the  disputed 
territory  between  Ohio  and  Michigan.  In  1834,  the 
space  now  occupied  for  the  village,  with  a  slight  excep- 
tion, was  a  dense  forest.  Now  it  numbers  between 
two  and  three  thousand  inhabitants.  Only  one  large 
steam  boat  entered  the  river  that  year ;  in  1836,  there 
were  more  than  600  arrivals  of  boats  and  schooners, 
besides  small  craft  ;  and  there  had  then  been  erected 
6  extensive  ware  houses,  41  stores,  6  hotels,  and  others 
were  in  a  state  of  forwardness.  From  its  location,  it 
cannot  be  otherwise  than  a  place  of  much  importance. 

Adrien,  33  miles,  is  the  present  termination  of  the 
rail  road. 

Tecumseh,  10  miles  farther,  is  a  flourishing  village 
of  between  two  and  three  thousand  inhabitants.  Be- 
tween Tecumseh  and 

*  This  road  is  soon  to  be  completed  to  Michigan 
city. 


MICHIGAN  CITY — CHICAGO. 


269 


NiLE8,\  ^hich  is  100  miles,  there  are  very  few  villages 
of  importance.  Tiie  country,  however,  is  rapidly  im- 
proving, and  will  ere  long  be  settled  with  an  extensive 
population.  The  village  of  Niles  is  located  on  the 
St.  Joseph's  river,  and  contains  a  population  of  about 
1500  inhabitants. 


Michigan  City  (Indiana)  is  40  miles  farther,  and  is 
the  termination  of  the  stage  route,  (unless,  indeed,  the 
traveller  prefers  passing  around  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  lake.)  The  town  is  situated  on  the  south-east- 
ern corner  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Trail 
creek,  in  a  glen,  surrounded  by  sand  hills.  It  is  the 
only  point  where  Indiana  sends  any  stream  into  the 
Lake,  and  consequently  the  only  spot  where,  by  any 
possibility,  she  can  build  a  city.  In  1834,  the  place 
contained  only  a  solitary  family  ;  now  it  has  a  popula- 
tion of  1500,  and  its  business  operations  are  very  ex- 
tensive. It  is  the  commercial  depot  for  the  entire  north 
of  Indiana — her  emporium — and  the  great  mart  for 
her  produce.  A  canal  from  this  place,  to  unite  with 
the  Wabash  and  Erie  canal  at  Fort  Wayne,  on  the 
Maumee,  is  in  progress.  The  stock  has  also  been 
subscribed  for  a  canal  from  Michigan  city  to  Kenka- 
kee  river,  uniting  with  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal. 
From  Michigan  city  to 

Chicago,  (Illinois,)  the  distance  across  the  lake  is 
55  miles.  It  is  located  on  the  Chicago  river,  at  its 
junction  with  the  lake,  at  that  precise  point  on  the 
grrat  chain  of  northern  lakes  which  is  most  nearly 
approached  by  the  Mississippi  river.  The  lUinois  river, 


I.li 


270 


CHICAGO. 


through  one  of  its  b'anchca,  approaches  within  ten 
miles  of  Chicago.  T»irougli  its  whole  course,  from 
near  the  June  lion  of  the  two  streams,  by  which  it  is 
formed  to  its  mouth,  navigation  is  unimpeded;  and 
when  connected  with  the  waters  of  the  great  chain  of 
lakes  by  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  whose  com- 
mencenn  iu  was  celebrated  on  the  4th  of  July,  1836,  a 
line  of  mtornal  communication  between  the  waters  of 
the  Atlantic  and  Mississippi  will  be  completed,  which 
must  be  the  vehicle  of  a  vast  commerce,  bearing  the 
mineral  and  affricultural  resources  of  one  of  the  most 
fertile  regions  of  the  Union  to  an  eastern  market,  and 
recompensing  the  produc  Jr  of  the  west  with  the  com- 
forts and  luxuries  of  other  and  distant  climes,  Chica- 
go, it  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  map,  will  be  the 
thoroughfare  of  this  commercial  intercourse ;  and  to 
this  calculation,  though  but  recently  made,  may  be 
attributed  its  unparalleled  growth.  In  1833,  there 
were  but  a  few  scattering  tenements  in  the  place,  and 
only  four  or  five  arrivals  from  the  lower  lakes.  In  1836, 
the  number  amounted  to  456,  the  buildings  to  more 
than  1000,  and  the  population  to  nearly  5000.  It  al- 
ready contains  6  churches,  a  bank,  and  a  marine  and 
fire  insurance  cotnpany  ;  and  its  stores,  ware  houses 
and  public  buildings  are  continually  augmenting. 

By  far  the  fairest  portion  of  the  site  of  Chicago  is 
now  occupierl  by  Fort  Dca/born,  and  is  the  property  of 
the  United  Statca.  It  i:^  the  southern  angle  formed  by 
the  river  and  the  lake;  the  surface  high,  level  and  dry., 
extending  nearly  ciglity  rods  up  the  river,  and  one. 
hundred  and  sixty  on  ttte  lake.  The  public  works, 
with  the  necessary  exercise  and  la!)oring  groimds  com* 


CIIIOAOO. 


271 


pHse  eighty  acres.  It  is  in  contemplation  to  remove 
the  garrison  from  DcarborrS,  dismantle  the  fortifica- 
tions, and  to  extract  this  thorn  from  the  side  of  Chicago. 
When  this  is  thrown  into  market,  if  the  present  rage 
for  speculation  shall  have  subsided,  it  will  burst  forth 
with  renewed  po\i'er  and  energy ;  fortunes  will  then 
be  made,  and  the  reaction,  if  ever,  will  be  subsequent 
to  that  period. 

Steam-boats  leave  Chicago  daily  for  various  ports  on 
the  lake ;  a  visit  to  none  of  which,  for  a  short  excur- 
sion, will  prove  more  interesting  than  that  of  Milwau- 
kee, (Wisconsin  Territory,)  90  miles  in  a  northerly 
direction.  It  is  the  largest  town  in  the  territory,  though, 
like  most  of  the  western  villages,  its  origin  is  very  re- 
cent. In  1835,  it  was  scarcely  known.  During  the 
following  year,  it  numbered  1300  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  Milwaukee  river,  and  must,  ir 
time,  in  consequence  of  the  fertility  of  the  soil  by  which 
it  is  surrounded,  and  the  advantages  which  it  possesses 
of  a  fine  natural  harbor,  be  one  of  the  most  important 
cities  of  the  west. 

Stages  leave  Chicago  daily  for  Galena,  (the  locality 
of  the  celebrated  lead  mines,)  100  miles  west,  on  the 
Mississippi  river,  to  which  a  rail  road  is  about  being 
constructed. 

Stages  also  leave  daily  in  a  SW.  direction,  for  Peru, 
the  head  of  steam-boat  navigation  on  the  Illinois  river, 
passing  through  Juliette,  a  flourishing  village,  30  miles 
distant ;  Ottawa,  at  the  junction  of  the  Fox  river  with 
the  Illinois,  53  miles  farther ;  from  whence  to  Peru  is 
17  miles.  This  is  to  be  the  terminating  point  of  a 
canal  from  Chicago,  and  also  of  what  is  termed  the 


272 


FROM  BUFFALO  TO  NIAGARA  FJlLLS. 


central  rail  road,  commencing  near  the  junction  of  the 
Ohio  with  the  Mississippi  river,  and  must  become  an 
important  town.  From  Peru,  steam*boats  are  taken 
for  Peoria,  60  miles  distant ;  also  for  Alton,  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, (3  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,)  149 
miles  farther ;  from  whence  to  St  Louis  is  21  miles* 
At  Alton,  a  stage  can  be  taken  daily  for  Vandalib,  the 
present  oeat  of  government  of  Illinois,  50  miles,  in  an 
easterly  direction.  From  Yandalia,  down  the  Kaskas- 
kia  n  /cr,  to  the  village  of  that  name,  is  95  miles ;  from 
whence  to  the  junction  of  the  Kaskaskia  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi IB  miles ;  and  from  thence  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Ohio  river,  100  miles. 


FROM  BUFFALO  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS, 

On  the  American  aide, 

A  rail  road  carriage  is  taken  twice  a  day,  passing 
through  the  village  of  Black  Rock  3  miles,  Tonawanda 
9  miles,  (where  the  canal  enters  the  Tonawanda  creek,) 
Niagara  Falls  11  miles.  The  time  employed  in  reach- 
ing the  Falls,  by  locomotive,  is  an  hour  and  a  half. 

On  the  Canada  side. 

After  reaching  Black  Rock,  the  river,  which  is  a  mile 
wide,  is  crossed  in  a  horse  boat  to  Waterloo;  from 
whence  to  the  Chippewa  battle  ground  is  15  miles, 
Chippewa  village  1  mile,  Niagara  Falls  2  miles. 


Black  Rock,  three  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  a  village  of 
considerable  magnitude  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Niag- 
ara river.  It  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1814 ;  but  has 
been  rebuilt,  and  is  much  increased  from  its  former 


WATERLOO. 


275 


Size.  Among  its  prominent  buildings  is  the  mansion 
lately  owned  by  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter,  formerly  secre- 
tary of  war,  which  has  a  very  handsome  appearance 
from  the  water.  A  pier  in  the  river,  about  2  miles  long, 
Affords  a  harbor  to  the  village,  and  is  used  as  a  part  of 
the  grand  canal.  The  dam,  however,  has  been  found 
insufficient  to  withstand  the  force  of  the  current.  Re- 
peated injuries  are  sustained,  and  vessels  now  seldom 
enter  the  harbor.  Opposite  Black  Rock,  on  the  Can- 
ada side,  is  the  small  village  of 


a  mile 

from 

milosy 


Waterloo  ;  a  little  south  of  which  stand  the  ruins 
of  Fort  Erie,  rendered  memorable  as  the  theatre  of 
several  severe  engagements  during  the  last  war.  The 
last  and  most  decisive  battle  fought  at  this  place,  was 
on  the  night  of  the  15th  of  August,  1814.  The  fort 
was  occupied  by  the  Americans ;  and  its  possession 
was  considered  an  object  of  importance  to  tlie  British. 
Taking  advantage  of  the  d  -kness  of  the  night,  they 
made  repeated  and  furious  assaults,  and  were  as  often 
repulsed  ;  until,  at  length,  they  succeeded,  by  superior 
force,  in  gaining  a  bastion.  After  maintaining  it  for  a 
short  time,  at  the  expense  of  many  lives,  accident  placed 
it  again  in  the  hands  of  the  Americans.  Several  cer- 
tridges  which  had  been  placed  in  a  stone  building  ad- 
joining exploded,  producing  tremendous  slaughter  and 
death  among  the  British.  They  soon  retreated,  leav- 
ing on  the  field  221  killed,  among  whom  were  Cols. 
Scott  and  Drummond,  174  wounded,  and  186  prisoners. 
The  American  loss  was  17  killed,  56  wounded,  and  11 
missing. 

This  action  was  followed  by  a  splendid  sortie  near 


274 


CHIPPEWA  BATTLE  GROUND. 


fill 


the  fort  on  the  17th  of  the  following  month,  which  r^ 
suited  in  a  loss  to  the  British  of  near  1000,  including 
385  prisoners,  and  to  the  Americans  of  511  killed, 
wounded  and  missing. 

From  Waterloo  to  Chippewa  Battle  Ground  is 
15  miles,  over  a  tolerably  good,  though  sandy  road. 

The  Batik  of  Chippewa  was  fought  on  the  5th  of  July, 
1314,  and  has  been  described  as  one  of  the  most  bril- 
liant spectacles  that  could  well  be  conceived.  The 
day  (says  a  writer)  was  clear  and  bright;  and  the  plain 
such  as  might  have  been  selected  for  a  parade  or  a 
tournament ;  the  troops  on  both  sides,  though  not  nu- 
merous, admirably  disciplined  ;  the  generals  leading  on 
their  columns  in  person  ;  the  glitter  of  the  arras  in  the 
sun,  and  the  precision  and  distinctness  of  every  move- 
ment, were  all  calculated  to  carry  the  mind  back  to 
the  scenes  of  ancient  story  or  poetry — to  the  plains  of 
Latium  or  of  Troy,  and  all  those  recollections  which  fill 
the  imagination  with  images  of  personal  heroism  and 
romantic  valor. 

Aft  or  some  skirmishing,  the  British  Indians  were 
discovered  in  the  rear  of  the  American  camp.  Gen. 
Porter,  with  his  volunteers  and  Indians,  were  directed 
to  scour  in  the  adjoining  forest.  This  force  had  nearly 
debouched  from  the  woods  opposite  Chippewa,  when 
it  was  ascertained  that  the  whole  British  force,  under 
Gen.  Riall,  had  crossed  the  Chippewa  bridge.  Gen. 
Brown  gave  immediate  orders  to  Gen.  Scott  to  advance 
with  his  brigade,  and  to  Gen.  Ripley  to  be  in  readiness 
to  support.  In  a  few  minutes,  the  British  line  was  dis- 
covered formed  and  rapidly  advancing,  their  right  on 
th»>ooda,  and  their  left  on  the  river.    Their  object 


*. 


CHIPPEWA  VlXl. AGE- -BRIDGE WA^'.R. 


«75 


"was  to  gain  the  bridge  across  a  small  crec'i.  ^n  front  of 
the  American  encampment,  which,  if  done,  would  have 
coir.pelled  the  Americans  to  retire.  The  bridge,  how- 
ever, v.'a3  socn  gained  by  Gen.  Scott  and  crossed,  un- 
der a  tremendous  fire  of  the  British  artillery,  and  hib 
line  formed.  The  British  orders  were  to  give  one  vol- 
ley at  a  distance,  and  immediately  charge.  But  such 
was  the  warmth  of  our  musque*  y  that  they  coulu  not 
withstand  it,  and  were  obtii  •:  1  to  retreat  before  the  ap- 
pearance of  Ripley's  brigade,  which  had  been  directed 
to  make  a  movement  through  the  woods  upon  the  ene- 
my's right  flank.  The  British  rocrossed  the  Chippewa 
bridge,  which  they  broke  down  on  their  retreat,  having 
suffered  a  loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  missing,  of  514. 
The  American  loss  was  328. 


Chippewa  Village  is  one  mile  north  of  the  battle 
ground.  It  contains  a  small  cluster  of  buildings  and  a 
few  mills  situate  on  the  Chippewa  creek,  which  nms 
through  the  village.    One  mile  farther  is 

Bridgewater  orLuNDi's  Lane,  celebrated  as  the 
ground  on  which  ati  important  battle  was  fought,  20 
days  after  the  battle  of  Chippewa.  The  scene  of  ac- 
tion was  near  the  mighty  cataract  of  Niagara,  within 
the  sound  of  its  thunders,  and  was,  in  proportion  to  the 
numbers  engaged,  the  most  sanguinary,  *nd  decidedly 
the  best  fought  of  any  action  which  ever  took  place  on 
the  American  continent.  The  following  letter,  written 
by  a  surgeon  of  one  of  the  regiments,  the  day  after  the 
engagement,  contains  many  interesting  particulars  : 

"**In  the  afStemoon,  the  enemy  advanced  towtr'?* 

t2 


.^! 


876 


BR*liG£WA  fEH. 


Chippewa  with  a  powerful  force.  At  6  o'clock,  Gem. 
Scott  wa8  ordered  to  advance  with  his  brigade  and  at- 
tack them.  He  was  soon  reinforced  by  General  Rip- 
ley's brigade ;  they  met  the  enemy  below  the  Falls. 
They  had  selected  their  ground  for  the  night,  intend- 
ing to  attack  our  camp  before  day-light.  The  action 
began  just  before  7,  and  an  uninterrupted  stream  of 
musketry  continued  till  half  past  8,  when  there  was 
some  cessation,  the  British  falling  back.  It  soon  be- 
gan again  with  some  artillery,  which,  with  slight  inter- 
ruptions, continued  till  half  past  10,  when  there  was  a 
charge,  and  a  tremendous  stream  of  fire  closed  the  con- 
flict. Both  armies  fought  with  a  desperation  bordering 
on  madness ;  neither  would  yield  the  palm,  but  each 
retired  a  short  distance,,  ^.vearied  out  with  fatigue. 
Such  a  constant  and  dr;- tmciive  fire  was  never  before 
sustained  by  American  troopa  without  falling  back. 

"  The  enemy  had  collettfd  their  whole  force  in  the 
peninsula,  and  were  reinforced  by  troops  from  Lord 
Wellington's  army,  just  landed  from  Kingston.  For 
two  hours  the  two  hostile  lines  were  within  20  yards  of 
each  other,  and  so  frequently  intermingled,  that  oflen 
an  officer  would  order  an  enemy's  platoon.  The  moon 
shone  bright ;  but  part  of  our  men  being  dressed  like 
the  Glengarian  regiment  caused  the  deception.  They 
frequently  charged,  and  were  as  often  driven  back. 
Our  regiment,  under  Colonel  Miller,  was  ordered  to 
storm  the  British  battery.  We  charged,  and  took  eve- 
ry piece  of  the  enemy's  cannon.  We  kept  possession 
of  the  ground  and  cannon  until  12  o'clock  at  night, 
when  we  all  fell  back  more  than  two  miles.  This  was 
done  to  secure  our  camp,  which  might  otherwise  have 


i\ 


* 


' 


BURNING   BPRING. 


277 


been  attacked  inthercnr.  Our  horses  being  most  of 
them  killed,  and  there  being  no  ropes  to  the  pieces,  wo 
got  off  but  two  or  thrco.  The  men  were  so  cxcesaive- 
ly  fatigued  they  could  not  dra«i:  them.  We  lost  one 
howitzer;  the  horses  being  on  full  gallop  t(  wards  the 
enemy  to  attack  them,  the  riders  were  shot  off  and  the 
horses  ran  through  the  enemy's  line.  We  lost  one 
piece  of  cannon,  which  was  too  much  advanced,  every 
man  being  shot  that  had  charge  of  it  hut  two.  Seve- 
ral of  our  caissons  were  blown  up  by  their  rockets, 
which  did  some  injury,  and  deprived  our  cannon  of 
ammunition.  The  lines  were  so  near  that  cannon  could 
not  be  used  with  advantage." 

The  British  loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  prisoners 
was  878,  and  the  American  loss  860. 

The  road  to  the  Falls,  passes  directly  over  the  hill 
where  the  British  artillery  was  posted  at  the  time 
Scott's  brigade  commenced  the  action ;  and  the  houses 
in  the  village  of  Bridgewater — the  trees  and  fences  in 
the  vicinity,  still  retain  marks  of  the  combat.  Many 
graves  arc  seen  upon  the  hill ;  among  others  that  of 
Capt.  Hull,  son  of  the  late  Gen.  Hull,  who  distinguish- 
ed himself  and  fell  in  this  action.  Most  of  the  slain 
were  collected  and  burned  upon  the  battle  ground ;  on 
which  spot  it  is  in  contempletion  to  erect  a  church. 


i\ 


BURNING   SPRING. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  Lundy's  Lane,  and  within 
a  few  feet  of  the  rapids  in  the  Niagara  river,  is  a  Burn- 
ing Spring.  The  water  is  warm  and  surcharged  with 
Bulphuretted  hydrogen  gas.  The  water  rises  in  a  bar- 
rel, which  is  covered,  and  the  gas  escapes  through  a 


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Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STRCET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4S03 


S78 


KIAGARA  FALtS. 


tube.  On  applying  a  candle  to  the  tube,  the  gas  takes 
fire,  and  burns  with  a  brilliant  flame  until  blown  out; 
and  on  closing  the  building  for  a  short  time  in  which 
the  spring  is  contained,  and  afterwards  entering  it  with 
a  lighted  candle,  an  explosion  may  be  produced.  A 
small  fee  for  the  exhibition  is  required  by  the  keeper  of 
the  spring. 

Hatt'amile  from  the  Burning  Spring  are  the  cele- 
t>rated 

NIAGARA  VALLS. 

They  are  situated  on  the  Niagara  river,  which  unites 
tlie  waters  of  Lake  Erie  and  the  upper  lakes  with  Lake 
Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  river  is  35  miles  in 
length,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  5  or  6  miles  in  width. 
The  banks  of  the  river  vary  in  their  height  above  the 
Falls,  from  four  to  lOD  feet.  Immediately  below  the 
Falls,  the  precipice  is  not  less  than  300  feet,  and  from 
thence  to  Lake  Ontario  it  gradually  diminishes  to  the 
height  of  25  or  30  feet.  The  Niagara  river  contains  a 
number  of  islands,  the  principal  of  which  is  Grand  Isl- 
and, which  was  ceded  to  the  state  of  New- York  by 
the  Seneca  nation  of  Indians,  in  1815.  For  the  grant 
the  state  paid  $1000  down,  and  secured  an  annuity  of 
$500.  This  island  is  12  miles  long,  and  from  2  to  7 
broad. 

The  Falls  are  situated  below  Grand  Island,  about  20 
miles  distant  from  Lake  Erie,  and  14  from  Lake  Onta- 
rio, At  Chippewa  creek,  2  miles  above  the  Falls,  the 
width  of  the  river  is  neariy  2  miles,  and  its  current  ex- 
tremely rapid.  From  thence  to  the  Falls  it  gradually 
narrows  to  about  1  mile  in  width.    The  descent  of  the 


■-'.s'•'i^^.■i■£"XJi^■^«iift3<tii^i'J^^<J^/v-l:y■■^l-^l.:A■;'^--Ji^- 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


279 


rapids  has  been  estimated  at  58  feet.  The  course  of  the 
river  above  the  Fails  is  north-westwardly,  and  below  it 
turns  abruptly  to  the  northeast,  flowing  about  a  mile 
and  a  half,  when  it  assumes  a  northern  direction  to 
Lake  Ontario.  The  cataract  pours  over  a  summit  in 
the  form  of  a  crescent,  extending  some  distance  up  the 
stream.  The  sheet  of  water  is  separated  by  Goat  Isl- 
and, leaving  the  grand  fall  on  the  Canada  side  about 
600  yards  wide,  and  the  high  fall  on  the  American  side 
about  300.  The  fall  on  the  American  side  drops  al- 
most perpendicularly  to  the  distance  of  164  feet.  The 
grand  or  horse-shoe  fall,  on  the  Canada  side,  descends 
to  the  river  below  in  the  form  of  a  curve,  158  feet,  pro- 
jecting about  50  feet  from  the  base.  The  whole  height, 
including  the  descent  of  the  rapids  above,  is  216  feet, 

'  On  the  Canada  side. 

The  view  from  the  table  rock  has  been  generally 
considered  preferable ;  but  this  point  must  be  decided 
by  the  different  tastes  of  visitors.  The  table  rock  pro- 
jects about  50  feet,  and  between  it  and  the  Falls  an  ir- 
regular arch  is  formed,  which  extends  under  the  pitch 
almost  without  interruption,  to  the  island.  The  de^ 
scent  from  the  table  rock  is  by  means  of  a  spiral  stair- 
way, which  is  enclosed.  Visitants  desirous  of  passing 
in  the  rear  of  the  great  sheet  of  water,  are  supplied  by 
the  keeper  of  the  stairs  with  dresses  for  that  purpose, 
and  with  a  guide.  On  reaching  the  bottom  a  rough 
path  winds  along  the  foot  of  the  precipice  and  leads 
under  the  excavated  bank,  which,  in  one  place,  over- 
hangs about  40  feet.  The  entrance  into  the  tremen- 
dous cavern  behind  the  falling  sheet,  should  never  be 
attempted  by  persons  of  weak  nerves.    The  humidity 


280 


MIACARA  f ALLS. 


ef  the  atmosphere,  which,  at  times,  almost  prevents 
respiration ;  the  deafening  roar  of  the  foaming  torrent, 
and  the  sombre  appearance  of  surrounding  objects,  is 
oilentimes  calculated  to  unnerve  the  stoutest  frame. 
The  farthest  distance  that  can  be  approached,  is  to 
what  is  called  Termination  Rockf  153  feet  from  the  com- 
mencement of  the  volume  of  water  at  Table  Rock. 
Few,  however,  have  the  courag<e  to  proceed  that  dis- 
tance, and  seldom  go  farther  than  100  feet. 

A  large  crack  in  the  table  rock,  which  has  increased 
annually  for  some  yenrs,  renders  it  very  certain  that  a 
considerable  proportion  will  ere  long  fall  into  the  abyss 
below.  The  part  thus  cracked  is  nearly  50  feet  in 
width,  and  might  be  blasted  off  without  difficulty.  The 
height  of  this  rock  has  been  ascertained  to  be  163  feet ; 
while  that  of  the  Falls,  measuring  from  the  bridge  near 
the  terrapin  rocks,  has  proved  to  be  1 58  feet  4  inches. 

The  Pavilion,  on  the  Canada  side,  is  on  a  loftv  -^u 
nence  above  the  Falls;  affording  from  itspiaz'^'  id 
roof  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  surrounding  scenery. 
It  is  a  handsomely  constructed  building,  and  can  ac- 
commodate from  100  to  150  guests.  Connected  with 
the  establishment  is  a  platform  along  what  is  called  the 
upper  bank,  between  the  house  and  river,  giving  an 
easy  descent  to  the  Table  Rock.  This  with  the  stair 
«ase  from  the  rock  to  the  bank  below,  affords  a  pleas- 
ant and  safe  means  of  obtaining  one  of  the  best  views 
of  the  Falls. 

From  the  Table  Rock  the  traveller  passes  by  the 
museum  along  the  wooded  bank  of  the  river,  until  he 
Arrives  at  the  road  leading  down  to  the  Ferry  House, 
lialf  a  mile  below  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall.    At  this  point 


MIAOARA  FAtLS. 


881 


of  the  road  he  obtains  a  full  view  of  the  plot  designed 
for  the  village  of  "Clifton."  When  the  « Crescent" 
shall  be  occupied  by  tasteful  cottages,  and  a  little 
shrubbery  added  to  the  beautiful  trees  and  plants  which 
grow  luxuriantly  at  present  along  its  front,  there  will 
be  few  retreats  more  desirable,  more  picturesque,  or 
healthful,  as  a  summer  residence,  than  this  spot. 

From  the  "Clifton  House,"  a  large  and  handsomely 
furnished  public  establishment,  located  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  ferry  road,  a  splendid  view  of  both 
falls,  the  river,  islands,  &c.  may  be  had.  Row  boats 
are  continually  crossing  the  river  from  the  termination 
of  this  road.  The  rapidity  of  the  current,  the  numer- 
ous eddies,  and  the  agitated  appearance  of  the  water, 
are  calculated  to  impress  a  stranger  with  the  idea  tiat 
a  passage  is  hazardous ;  but  ve  believe  few  if  any 
accidents  have  ever  happened.  The  boatmen  are  skil- 
ful, and  the  crossing  is  generally  effected  in  about  15 
minutes. 

The  Falls  on  the  Ameriean  ridet 

Though  less  gigantic,  are  nevertheless  beautiful; 
and  would  alone  be  considered  one  of  the  greatest  nat- 
ural curiosities  in  the  world.  A  flight  of  stairs  has  been 
constructed  from  the  bank  a  few  rods  below  the  falls  to 
the  bottom.  In  consequence  of  a  rocky  barrier  in  front 
of  the  falling  sheet,  it  can  be  approached  to  within  a 
few  feet ;  though  not  without  encountering  a  plentiful 
shower  of  the  spray.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above 
the  fall  a  bridge  has  been  construceed  from  the  shore 
to  Bath  Island ;  which  is  connected  by  means  of  anoth- 
er bridge  with  Goat  Island.    The  sensation  in  crossing 


983 


MUOARA   FALLS. 


these  bridges,  and  particularly  the  first,'*  over  the  trt* 
mendous  rapids  beneath,  is  calculated  to  alarm  the 
traveller  for  his  safety,  and  hasten  him  in  his  excursion 
to  the  Island.  On  Bath  Island,  mills  have  been  erect- 
ed, contiguous  to  what  is  termed  the  race-toat/,  which 
divides  Bath  from  Goat  Island.  The  latter,  which  is 
330  yards  broad,  is  principally  a  wilderness.  On  the 
southern  and  western  banks  an  extensive  view  is  had 
of  the  rapids  above  and  of  the  grand  fall  on  the  Can  ida 
side*  But  the  best  view  of  the  latter  is  obtained  from  a 
small  bridge  which  has  been  erected  from  the  island  to 
the  Terrapin  rocks,  adjoining  the  falls,  300  feet  from  the 
shore.  From  the  end  of  this  bridge,  which  is  placed  on 
the  very  verge  of  the  precipice,  the  frightful  abyss,  cov- 
ered with  a  foam  of  snowy  whiteness,  is  seen  beneath. 


♦  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter,  to  whom  the  public  are  in- 
debted for  the  construction  of  this  bridge,  informed  me 
that  its  erection  was  not  effected  without  considerable 
danger.  Two  large  trees,  hewed  to  correspond  with 
their  shape,  were  first  constructed  into  a  temporary 
bridge,  the  huts  fastened  to  the  shore,  with  the  lightest 
ends  projecting  over  the  rapids.  At  the  extremitv  of 
the  projection,  a  small  pier  of  stone  was  first  placed  in 
the  rivet',  and  when  this  became  secure,  loss  were  sunk 
around  it,  locked  in  such  a  manner  as  to  form  a  frame, 
which  was  filled  with  stone.  A  bridge  was  then  made 
to  this  pier,  the  temporary  bridge  shoved  forward,  and 
another  pier  formed,  until  the  whole  was  completed. 
One  man  fell  into  the  rapids  during  the  work.  At  first, 
owing  to  the  velocity  with  which  he  was  carried  for- 
ward, he  was  unable  to  hold  upon  the  projecting  rocks ; 
but  through  great  bodily  exertions  to  lessen  the  motion, 
by  swimming  against  the  current,  he  was  enabled  to 
seize  upon  a  rocK,  from  which  he  was  taken  by  means 
of  a  rope. 


',i'<'f:*ii;' 


it  the  tr^ 
ilarm  the 
excursion 
sen  erect- 
at/,  which 
which  ia 
On  the 
iw  is  had 
e  Can  ida 
ed  from  a 
island  to 
:  from  the 
placed  on 
jyss,  cov- 
beneath. 


ic  are  in- 
rmed  me 
siderable 
end  with 
mporary 
}  lightest 
remitT  of 
»laced  in 
ere  sunk 
a  frame, 
en  made 
ard,  and 
tnpletedk 
At  first, 
tied  for- 
g rocks; 
motion, 
^bled  to 
r  means 


MIAGARA   FALLS. 


383 


: 


No  one  can  witness  it  at  first,  without  involuntarily 
shrinking  back.  A  fear  that  the  frail  structure  on  which 
he  stands  may  possibly  give  way,  induces  him  to  re- 
trace his  steps  with  as  little  delay  as  practicable;  and 
it  is  not  until  after  repeated  visits,  that  this  alarm 
wholly  subsides. 

At  the  foot  of  Iris  Island  (adjoining  Goat  Island)  is 
what  is  called  the  Biddle  stair-wayy  erected  by  N.  Did- 
dle, Esq.  president  of  the  U.  S.  Bank.  This  aflbrds 
a  safe  and  easy  passage  to  a  position  more  favorable 
than  any  other  for  viewing  this  stupendous  work  of 
nature.  The  elevation  of  the  island  above  the  margin 
of  the  river  or  basin  below,  is  185  feet.  The  descent  of 
the  first  40  feet  is  effected  by  a  flight  of  steps,  commen- 
cing in  the  interior  of  the  island,  and  descending  in  a 
rapid  declivity  to  the  brow  of  the  perpendicular  work, 
through  a  dugway  walled  on  both  sides  ;  the  second 
flight  is  by  a  spiral  stair  way  of  88  steps,  down  a  per- 
pendicular building  in  the  shape  of  a  hexicon,  resting 
on  a  firm  foundation — the  whole  handsomely  enclosed. 
From  the  foot  of  this  building  to  the  river  below,  (about 
80  feet,)  are  three  paths  formed  of  stone  steps,  and 
leading  to  the  water  in  different  directions.* 

The  amount  of  water  which  passes  over  the  respec- 
tive falls  has  been  estimated  by  Dr.  Dwight  at  more 
than  100  millions  of  tons  an  hour !  No  method  can  be 
devised  for  ascertaining  the  depth  at  the  principal  fall ; 


*  It  was  from  ladders  erected  ai.  this  place  that  the 
celebrated  Sam  Patch  made  a  descent  of  118  feet  into 
the  water  below,  a  short  time  previous  to  his  fatal  leap 
at  Rochester,  in  the  fall  of  1829. 


284 


NIAOIRA   FALLS. 


but  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  may  be  6  or  800  feet ;  as 
the  depth  of  the  stream  half  a  mile  below  is  from  250  to 
260  feet. 

To  a  stranger  who  shall  examine  the  rapids  above 
the  falls,  it  will  seem  incredible  that  Qoat  Island  should 
ever  have  been  visited  previous  to  the  construction  of 
the  bridge.  Yet  as  early  as  1765,'*'  several  French  ofH* 
cers  were  conveyed  to  it  by  Indians  in  canoes,  care- 
fully dropping  down  the  river;  and  it  is  but  a  few 
years  since  Gen.  Porter,  of  Black  Rock,  with  some  oth- 
er gentlemen,  also  made  a  trip  to  the  Island  in  a  boat. 
They  found  but  little  trouble  in  descending;  but  their 
return  was  difficult  and  hazardous.  It  was  effected  by 
shoving  the  boat  with  setting  poles  up  the  most  shallow 
part  of  the  current,  for  half  a  mile,  before  making  for 
the  shore. 

Falling  into  the  current  within  a  mile  of  the  falls,  is 
considered  fatal.  Several  accidents  of  this  kind  have 
happened ;  and  no  one  (save  in  the  instance  mention- 
ed in  a  preceding  page)  has  ever  reached  the  shore. 
Many  bodies  have  been  found  below  the  falls — those 
that  have  fallen  in  the  centre  of  the  stream,  without 
any  external  marks  of  injury ;  and  those  that  have 
fallen  near  the  shore,  much  lacerated  and  disfigured. 
The  latter  has  probably  been  occasioned  by  coming  in 
contact  with  rocks  in  shallow  water,  before  reaching 
the  cataract.  It  is  but  a  few  years  since  an  Indian, 
partially  intoxicated,  in  attempting  to  cross  the  river 
near  Chippewa,  was  forced  near  the  rapids ;  when, 


*  Trees  marked  1765  and  1769,  are  still  to  be  seen 
on  the  island. 


>*i.,k« 


WELLAND   CANAL. 


S85 


finding  all  efTorts  to  regain  the  shore  unavailing,  he  lay 
down  in  hie  canoe,  and  was  Boon  plunged  into  the 
tremendous  vortex  below.  He  was  never  seen  after- 
wards. 

There  are  two  respectable  boarding  establishments 
on  the  American  side,  in  what  is  called  the  village  of 
Manchester;  and  a  third,  on  a  much  larger  scale,  has 
been  commenced,  and  will  soon  be  completed.  The 
village  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1813;  but  it  has 
been  rebuilt,  and  though  small,  is  larger  than  it  was 
previous  to  that  event. 

In  giving  a  general  description  of  the  Falls,  we  have, 
in  crossing  to  the  American  side,  diverged  from  our 
proposed  route.  While  on  the  Canada  shore,  it  is  re- 
commended to  the  tourist  to  visit  the  Deep  Cut  on  the 
Welland  canal,  eight  miles  west  of  the  Falls  ;  return ; 
proceed  down  the  Niagara  river  through  Ctueenston  to 
Fort  George  or  Newark ;  cross  over  to  Fort  Niagara  or 
Youngstown,  and  proceed  up  the  river,  through  Lew- 
iston  to  Manchester.  For  a  short  excursion,  there  are 
many  objects  of  attraction  on  this  route,  which  are  no- 
ticed hereafter. 


The  Welland  Canal  unites  the  waters  of  Lakes 
Erie  and  Ontario,  and  is  constructed  for  sloops  of  125 
tons  burthen.  The  canal  commences  at  Port  Mait- 
land,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Grand  river  on  Litke  Erie,  40 
miles  west  of  Buffalo,  and  follows  the  channel  of  that 
stream  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  thence  up  Broad 
creek  nearly  a  mile,  where  the  artificial  channel  com- 
mences by  a  cut  of  10  miles  through  a  marsh.  It  then 
proceeds  down  mill  creek  2^  miles  until  it  intersects 


-;i!L;.(/!**hi:-'i!iiii-S;l4-*^  :v  S,;  '.^^ 


€96 


WELLAMD   CANAL. 


the  Welland  river,  into  which  it  descends  by  a  lock  of 
eight  feet  lift;  thence  a  towing  path  is  constructed 
along  the  banks  10  miles— the  marsh  excavation  from 
10  to  16  feet.  From  Welland  river  the  canal  runs  in  a 
northerly  direction  winding  up  a  ravine  66  chains,  hav- 
ing 8  or  10  feet  cutting ;  where  commences  the  deep 
cutting  or  dividing  ridge,  an  almost  abrupt  height  of  27 
feet  above  the  canal  bottom.  It  thence  runs  gradually 
to  56  feet  6  inches  in  a  distance  of  100  chains ;  thence 
descends  to  30  feet  in  28  chains,  which  as  abruptly 
breaks  off  in  another  ravine ;  whole  distance  through 
the  deep  cut  1  mile  54  chains ;  average  depth  44  feet. 
To  the  depth  of  from  12  to  IS  feet  from  the  surface,  it 
is  a  compound  of  clay,  mixed  with  sand,  and  below  this 
a  tenacious  blue  clay.  From  the  termination  of  the 
deep  cut  to  that  part  where  the  mountain  descends,  is 
a  distance  of  4  miles  and  23  chains,  to  lock  No.  1,  as  it 
is  called,  although  it  is  properly  lock  No.  2.  From 
lock  No.  1  the  canal  continues  in  a  ravine  53  chains, 
gradually  descending  by  4  locks  of  22  feet  width ;  and 
thence  for  1  mile  and  55  chains  it  winds  around  the 
brow  of  a  hill.  There  are  17  locks  in  this  distance, 
and  60,000  yards  of  rock  excavation.  From  this  place 
the  canal  enters  another  ravine  to  St.  Catharine^s,  a 
distance  of  2|  miles,  in  which  tiiere  are  12  locks.  This 
may  be  termed  the  mountain  descent,  as  in  a  distance 
of  4  miles  and  72|  chains  from  lock  No.  1,  there  aro 
32  locks,  with  a  declination  of  322  feet,  22  feet  wide 
and  100  feet  in  the  pool.  From  this  to  Lake  Ontario,  a 
distance  of  5  miles,  the  canal  is  mostly  in  the  bed  of 
the  Twelve  Mile  creek. 
The  whole  length  of  this  canal  ia  43]^  miles,  a  little 


BATTLE  OF  QUEENSTON. 


887 


more  than  19  of  which  are  iilack  water;  the  total 
amount  of  lockage  334  feet. 

The  Deep  Cut  is  considered  the  most  gigantic  artifi- 
rial  work  in  America,  if  we  except  the  Desague  near 
Mexico  ;  and  with  the  precipice  of  locks  which  descend 
the  mountain  ridge,  forms  altogether  one  of  the  most 
interesting  improvements  of  the  age. 

From  the  Falls  on  the  Canada  side  to  Q,tteenst0N| 
the  distance  is  7  miles,  over  a  good  road  which  passes 
the  former  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  since 
owned  by  Sir  Peregrine  Maitland.  Clueenston  lies  on 
the  bank  of  the  Niagara,  and  has  little  in  its  appear- 
ance indicating  a  prosperous  or  thriving  village. 

The  Battle  of  Queen5(on,  which  was  fought  at  this 
place,  occurred  on  the  13th  of  Oct.  1812.  Gen.  Van 
Rensselaer,  who  had  command  of  the  American  troops 
at  Lewiston,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  determin- 
ed on  crossing  over  and  taking  possession  of  Queens- 
ton  heights.  The  crossing  was  effected  before  day 
light ;  and  the  ascent,  which  was  up  a  precipitous  ra- 
vine, rising  near  300  feet  above  the  river,  was  accom- 
plished amid  the  fire  of  the  enemy  from  his  breast  works 
on  the  heights.  As  the  Americans  approached,  the 
British  retreated  to  the  village  below  ;  where  their  com- 
mandant, Gen.  Brock,  in  forming  his  lines  to  reascend 
the  heights,  was  mortally  wounded  by  a  random  shot. 
His  aid,  Col.  M'Donald,  then  took  command  and  as- 
cended the  heights,  where  he  was  also  wounded  mor- 
tally. The  Americans  continued  in  possession  but  a 
few  hours,  when  they  recrossed  the  river.  The  pickets 
and  breast  works,  though  in  a  state  of  decay,  are  still 
visible. 


ftSd 


brock's  monument. 


The  spot  on  which  Brock  fell  is  pointed  out  to  stnn* 
gers.  It  was  in  a  small  field,  since  called  Brock's  lot ; 
and  is  reserved  for  the  erection  of  a  church  at  a  future 
period. 


BROCK  S  MONUMENT 

Is  on  the  heights,  one  fourth  of  a  mile  southwest  of 
the  village  of  Ctueonston.  It  is  composed  of  free  stone ; 
and,  excepting  the  base,  is  of  a  spiral  form.  It  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  architecture ;  and  from  its  elevation,  is 
seen  for  many  miles  around.  Its  height  is  126  feet ;  and 
the  heights  on  which  it  is  erected  nre  270  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  Niagara  river.  The  ascent  to  the  top 
of  the  monument  is  by  means  of  winding  steps,  170 
in  number.  It  is  extremely  fatiguing ;  but  the  prospect 
afforded  of  the  surrounding  country,  for  50  miles  in  ex- 
tent, will  richly  repay  the  tourist  for  the  time  and  trou- 
ble in  visiting  its  pinnacle.  The  following  inscription 
appears  on  the  monument : 

"The  Legislature  of  Upper  Canada  has  dedicated 
this  monument  to  the  many  civil  and  military  services 
of  the  late  Sir  Isaac  Brock,  Knight,  Commander  of 
the^most  honorable  Order  of  the  Bath,  Provincial  Lieut. 
Governor  and  Major  General,  commanding  his  Majes- 
ty's forces  therein.  He  fell  in  action  on  the  13th  of 
October,  1812,  honored  and  beloved  by  those  whom  he 
governed,  and  deplored  by  his  Sovereign,  to  whose  ser- 
vices his  life  had  been  devoted.  His  remains  are  depos- 
ited in  this  vault,  as  also  his  aid-de-camp,  Lieut.  Colo- 
nel John  M'Donald,  who  died  of  his  wounds  the  l4th 
of  October,  1812,  received  the  day  before  in  action." 


Ltwistoir. 


189 


to  itran* 
>ck'8  lot ; 
t  a  future 


Lhwcst  of 
90  stone ; 
t  is  a  fine 
nation,  is 
*cct ;  and 
3ot  above 
0  the  top 
eps,  170 
prospect 
es  in  ex- 
nd  trou- 
scription 

edicated 
services 
inder  of 
il  Lieut. 
Majes- 
13th  of 
i^hom  he 
ose  ser- 
Q  depos- 
it. Colo- 
he  I4th 
ion." 


Four  GioRGE,  or  Newark,  is  seven  miles  north  of 
Ctueenston,  and  is  located  at  the  entrance  of  the  Niag- 
ara river  into  Lake  Ontario.  The  village  was  burnt 
during  the  last  war ;  which  event  was  followed  by  tho 
burning  of  several  frontier  villages  on  the  American 
shore,  as  retaliatory.  Fort  George,  near  the  village,  is 
the  most  prominent,  and  perhaps  the  only  object  of  in- 
terest presented.  It  is  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preserva- 
tion, and  has  generally  since  the  war  been  occupied  as 
a  garrison  by  a  Hmall  number  of  soldiers.  The  river  is 
crossed  in  a  horse  boat,  to 

YouNGSTOWN,  containing  from  40  to  50  houses,  one 
mile  north  of  which,  and  directly  opposite  Newark,  is 
Fort  Niagara.*  It  was  built  by  the  French  in  1725, 
passed  into  British  hands  by  the  conquest  of  Canada, 
and  was  surrendered  to  the  U.  States  in  1796.  It  was 
taken  by  the  British  by  surprise  during  the  last  war, 
and  abandoned  on  the  restoration  of  peace.  The  works 
are  now  in  a  state  of  decay. 

Lewiston  is  7  miles  south  of  Youngstown,  and  ia 
directly  opposite  the  villag-e  of  dueenston.  It  is  loca- 
ted at  the  foot  and  termination  of  the  Mountain  Ridge, 
or  alluvial  way,  (noticed  hereafter,)  and  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Niagara  river.  With  the  other  fron- 
tier villages,  it  was  laid  in  ruins  during  the  late  war, 
and  was  deserted  by  its  inhabitants,  from  Dec.  1813, 
to  April,  1815;  but  is  now  in  a  flourishing  condition, 


*  This  is  the  place  where  tlic  celebrated  WiUiam 
J\lorgan  was  confined  after  his  abduction. 


S90 


LBWISTON. 


and  its  buildings  exhibit  much  taste  and  neatness.  A 
ferry  is  established  between  this  place  and  dueenston, 
and  a  suspension  bridge  is  soon  to  be  erected,  a  com- 
pany having  been  chartered  for  that  purpose,  and  the 
stoclc  subscribed.  In  crossing  the  ferry,  the  boat  is 
carried  down  for  a  considerable  distance  with  much 
rapidity,  but  without  danger.  Every  appearance  con- 
firms the  supposition,  that  at  this  place  the  falls  once 
poured  their  immense  volumes  of  water,  but  by  a  con- 
stant abrasion  of  the  cataract,  have  receded  to  their 
present  position,  7  miles  distant. 

Stages  leave  Lewistown  |every  morning  for  Roches- 
ter, distant  80  miles,  passing  on  the  Ridge  Road,  or  al- 
luvial way,*  and  reach  Rochester  at  evening.    Stages 


*  This  ridge  extends  along  the  south  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  from  the  Genesee  river  to  Niagara  river,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  80  miles.  The  road  is  handsomely  arch- 
ed in  the  centre,  and  is  generally  from  4  to  8  rods  wide. 
In  some  places  it  is  elevated  120  or  130  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  lake,  from  which  it  is  distant  from  6  to  10 
miles.  The  first  40  miles  from  Lewiston,  of  this  natu- 
ral highway,  is  broken  for  a  considerable  extent,  by  log 
roads  or  causeways,  bordered  by  impervious  forests, 
occasionally  relieved  by  the  temporary  huts  of  the  re- 
cent settlers ;  but  tiie  remaining  distance  is  unusually 
lovel ;  and,  with  some  intermissions,  bordered  by  a  line 
of  cultivation.  It  is  generally  believed  that  this  was 
once  the  southern  boundary  of  the  lake,  and  that  the 
ridge  was  occasioned  by  the  action  of  the  water.  The 
gravel  and  smooth  stones,  of  which  the  ridge  is  com- 

f)osed,  intermingled  with  a  great  variety  of  shells,  leave 
ittle  room  to  doubt  the  correctness  of  this  opinion.  It 
is  a  great  natural  curiosity,  and  should  be  travelled 
over  by  the  tourist  in  going  to  or  returning  from  the 
Falls. 


DEVIL*sJ  HOLE, 


891 


also  run  to  Lockport  every  day,  distant  20  miles,  (to 
which  place  a  rail  road  is  soon  to  be  constructed,)  pass- 
ing through  the  Tuscarora  village,  occupied  by  a  tribe 
of  Indians  of  that  name.* 

In  pursuing  this  rout  from  Lewiston  to  the  Falls  on 
the  American  side,  the  traveller  soon  begins  to  climb 
the  height  or  mountain  describing  the  difference  of  al- 
titude between  Lakes  Ontario  and  Eric.  The  ascent 
is  somewhat  precipitous,  but  is  overcome  without  difS- 
culty.  At  the  distance  of  two  miles,  rh<i  top  is  gained, 
and  nflbrds  an  imposing  prospect  of  the  almost  inter- 
minable expanse  below.  The  course  of  the  mighty 
Niagara  is  easily  traced  to  its  outlet :  where,  from  their 
prominence,  are  distinctly  seen.  Forts  Niagara  and 
George.  The  waters  of  the  distant  lake  and  the  sur- 
rounding plains  are  so  charmingly  picturesque,  that  the 
traveller  withdraws  reluctantly,  cvjn  to  participate  in 
the  enjoyment  of  scenes  more  sublime.  Three  and  a 
half  miles  from  Lewistown  is  what  is  called  the 


Devil's  Hole,  a  most  terrific  gulf,  formed  by  a 
chasm  in  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Niagara,  150  or  200 
feet  deep.  An  angle  of  this  gulf  is  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  road  ;  affording  to  the  passing  traveller,  without 


*  Doct  Spafford,  in  his  Gazeteer  of  New-York,  re- 
marks, that  this  tribe  came  from  North  Carolina  about 
1712,  and  joined  the  confederacy  of  the  Five  Nations, 
themselves  making  the  Sixth.  They  still  hold  an  in- 
terest in  a  very  large  and  valuable  tract  of  land  in  N, 
Carolina,  which  will  not  be  extinct  before  A.  D,  1911. 
They  also  own  a  very  considerable  tract  of  land  in  this 
state,  deeded  to  them  by  the  Holland  Company. 


S93 


LAKE  ONTARIO. 


alighting,  an  opportunity  of  looking  into  the  yawning 
abyss  beneath.  During  the  French  war,  a  detachment 
of  the  British  army,  whilst  retreating  from  Schlosser  in 
the  night,  before  a  superior  force  of  French  and  Indians, 
were  destroyed  at  this  place.  Officers,  soldiers,  wo- 
men and  children,  with  their  horses,  waggons,  bag- 
gage, &c.  were  all  precipitated  down  the  gulph.  Those 
who  were  not  drowned  in  the  river  were  dashed  in 
pieces  on  the  naked  rocks ! 

The  Whirlpool  is  one  mile  farther  south.  It  is 
formed  by  a  short  turn  in  the  river,  and  can  be  viewed 
on  either  side:  though  the  best  view,  connected  with 
the  rapids,  is  on  the  American  shore.  One  mile  far- 
ther, is  a 

Sulphur  Spring,  used  principally  for  bathing. 

The  American  Fall  at  Manchester,  is  a  mile  and  a 
half  farther,  and  has  been  already  noticed  in  this  work. 


LAKE   ONTARIO. 

This  lake  is  in  length  171  miles,  and  in  circumfer- 
ence 467.  In  many  places  its  depth  has  not  been  as- 
certained. In  the  middle  a  line  of  350  fathoms  has 
been  let  down  without  finding  bottom.  Of  the  many 
islands  which  this  lake  contains,  the  principle  is  Grand 
Isle,  opposite  to  Kingston.  At  this  place  the  lake  is 
about  10  miles  in  width,  and  from  thence  it  gradually 
contracts  until  it  reaches  Brockviile,  a  distance  of  about 
50  miles,  where  its  width  is  not  over  2  miles.  About 
40  miles  of  this  distance  is  filled  with  a  continued  clus- 


nOUTB  FROM  NIAGARA  TO   MONTREAL. 


293 


ter  of  small  islands,  ivhich,  from  their  number,  have 
been  distinguished  by  the  name  of  the  Thousand  Isl- 
ands. 

Though  inferior  in  extent  to  the  remaining  four  great 
western  lakes,  Ontario  is  far  from  being  the  least  inter- 
esting. The  north-east  shore  of  the  lake  consists  prin- 
cipally of  low  land,  and  is  in  many  places  marshy.  On 
the  north  and  north-west  it  is  more  elevated,  and  grad- 
ually subsides  towards  the  south.  The  margin  of  the 
lake  is  generally  bordered  by  thick  forests,  through 
which  are  occasionally  seen  little  settlements  surround- 
ed with  rich  fields  of  cultivation,  terminated  by  lofty 
ridges  of  land  here  and  there  assuming  the  character  of 
mountains.  Some  of  the  highest  elevations  of  land  are 
the  cliffs  of  Toronto,  the  Devil's  Nose,  and  the  Fifty 
Mile  Hill.  The  principal  rivers  which  empty  into  the 
lake  on  the  south,  are  the  Genesee  and  Oswego. — 
York,  Kingston  and  Sackett's  Harbor,  all  situated  on 
the  borders  of  the  lake,  are  well  known  in  connection 
with  the  history  of  the  late  war. 


ROUTE   FROM   NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAL. 

Stages  are  taken  at  the  Falls  for  Lewiston  orCtueens. 
ton,  seven  miles  distant ;  from  whence  a  boat  leaves 
Niagara  three  times  a  week,  touching  at  all  the  prom- 
inent points  on  the  American  and  Canada  shores  of  the 
lake,  and  arriving  either  at  Ogdensburgh  or  Prescott, 
on  the  St.  Lawrence  river,  in  two  days ;  from  whence 
stages  and  steam-boats  alternate  to  Montreal,  which  is 
reached  the  third  day.  The  increase  of  travel,  how- 
ever, on  this  route  within  a  few  years,  renders  it  highly 
probable  that  a  daily  line  will  soon  be  established.  The 


S94 


TORONTO—CHARLOTTE. 


distance  between  Ctueenston  and  Prescott  (pursuing 
the  Canada  side  and  touching  at  Toronto)  is  250  miles; 
from  whence  a  coach,  running  in  connection  with  the 
boats,  is  taken  to  Cornwall,  50  miles ;  steam-boat  to 
Coteau  du  Lac,  via  St.  Regis  Indian  village,  41  miles ; 
coach  to  Cascades,  16  miles  ;  steam-boat  to  Lachine, 
84  miles ;  coach  to  Montreal,  9  miles.  Distance  from 
the  Falls  to  Montreal,  414  miles—fare  $16. 

On  the  American  side,  the  distance  is  as  ibllows : 


MUes. 
From  the  Falls  to 

Fort  Niagara, 7 

Genesee  River, 74 

Great  Sodus  Bay,....  35 

Oswego  River, 28 

Sacket's  Harbor, 40 

Capo  Vincent, 20 

Total, 


Miles, 

Morristown, 50 

Ogdensburgh, ........  12 

Galloup  Islands, 5 

Hamilton...... 19 

St.  Re^is, 35 

La  Chine, 53 

Montreal 


7 
.385 

The  distance,  however,  as  traversed  by  the  steam- 
boats, in  touching  at  several  ports  on  both  sides  of  the 
lake,  is  very  much  increased* 

Toronto,  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada,  is  40  miles 
in  a  north  easterly  direction  from  Ctueenston.  It  is 
beautifully  situated  within  an  excellent  harbor,  made 
by  a  long  peninsula,  which  confines  a  basin  of  water 
sufficiently  large  to  contain  a  formidable  fleet.  The 
population  of  the  city  is  about  5000. 

Charlotte,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  river,  74 
miles  from  Lewiston,  is  a  port  of  entry  where  there  is 
a  light  house,  and  the  commencement  of  extensive  piers 
building  by  the  United  States,  for  improving  the  navi- 


(pursuing 
I  250  miles; 
an  with  the 
Etm-boat  to 
!,  41  miles ; 
;o  Lachine, 
tance  from 


dUows  : 

Mlet. 

50 

12 

', 5 

19 

35 

53 

7 

385 

the  steam- 
ides  of  the 


s  40  miles 
ton.    It  is 

|Dor,  made 
of  water 

leet.    The 


river,  74 
e  there  is 
sive  piers 
the  navi- 


<}REAt  S0DU3  BAT-^OSWEOO. 


295 


i 


gation.  The  river  is  navigable  to  the  Carthage  falls,'*' 
4  miles;  from  thence  to  Rochester*  id  2  miles;  to 
which  place  passengers  can  always  be  conveyed  by 
rail  road  carriages  in  readiness  on  the  arrival  of  the 
boat 

Great  Sodus  Bat,  35  miles.  This  embraces  East- 
Port  and  Little  Sodus  Bays,  and  has  three  islands  of 
considerable  size.  The  whole  circumference  of  the 
bay,  with  its  coves  and  points,  is  about  15  miles.  Its 
waters  are  deep  and  clear,  and  its  shores  have  several 
elegant  sites  for  buildings. 

Oswego,  28  miles.  It  is  here  that  the  Oswego  canal, 
38  miles  in  length,  including  20  miles  of  the  Oswego 
river,  unites  with'  the  Erie ;  thus  joining  the  waters  of 
Lake  Ontario  With  the  Hudson.  There  is  a  daily  line 
of  packet  boats  running  from  Utica  to  Oswego,  passing 
from  Syracuse  to  Oswego  by  day  light,  affording  the 
traveller  an  opportunity  of  viewing  a  great  variety  of 
scenery,  and  an  interesting  part  of  the  Western  canal 
navigation.  These  boats  are  new,  of  the  largest  di- 
mensions, and  in  the  latest  style  of  accommodation. 
On  this  route,  12  miles  douth  of  Oswego,  the  traveller 
passes  the  flourishing  village  of  Fulton,  at  which  place 
there  are  numerous  mills,  and  also  a  fall  of  some  beau- 
ty. Oswego  is  beautifully  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
river — a  bridge  connecting  the  two  parts  of  the  village, 
and  the  streets  which  are  wide,  laid  out  at  right  angles. 


*  For  a  description  of  these  places,  see  pages  246  to 
252.  : 

AA 


Ai...i. 


S96 


OSWEGO. 


and  extending  in  a  parallel  line  from  one  side  of  the 
river  to  the  other.  Although  this  place  has  long  been 
noted  in  the  historic  page  of  our  country,  still  it  may  be 
said  to  have  taken  its  rise  since  1826,  the  year  in  which 
the  state  sales  of  surplus  waters  from  the  canal  were 
made.  The  village  owes  much  of  its  importance,  not 
only  to  the  numerous  mills  and  manufactories  for  which 
its  location  is  extremely  eligible,  being  unsurpassed  by 
any  place  in  the  country  for  hydraulic  power,  but  also 
to  the  extensive  commercial  intercourse  that  it  has  with 
the  Canadas.  and  the  western  lakes. 

The  surplus  waters  of  the  canal,  by  an  arrangement 
with  the  state,  belong  to  the  Oswego  Canal  Company, 
who,  by  a  subsidiary  canal,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
have  conveyed  them  to  the  village,  where  they  have 
a  fall  of  19  feet,  and  propel  a  great  number  of  mills. 
Mr.  Abraham  Varick,  the  owner  of  an  extensive  prop- 
erty at  this  place,  has  also  constructed,  at  great  ex- 
pense, a  canal  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  affording 
a  similar  fall,  and  equally  important  facilities  for  mills 
and  manufactories.  At  the  mouth  of  the  river,  jutting 
into  the  lake,  the  U.  S.  government  have  erected  a  pier 
or  mole  at  the  expense  of  $100,000,  rendering  the  har- 
bor the  safest  and  best  on  the  American  shore.  To  the 
party  of  pleasure  for  the  Falls,  a  route  from  Syracuse 
{see  p.  243)  to  Oswego,  and  from  thence  by  steam-boat 
direct  to  Niagara,  will  always  prove  interesting,  without 
the  fatigues  attendant  on  stage  travelling. 

Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  village,  are  a 
court  house,  6  churches,  2  banks,  and  an  academy. 
The  population  is  about  5000. 

The  Welland  House  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best 


OGDENSBURGH. 


297 


public  establishments  in  the  state.  From  its  upper  sto- 
ry an  extensive  and  uninterrupted  view  is  had  of  the 
lake,  which  is  here  60  miles  broad.  The  Oswego  Ho- 
tel is  also  a  large  and  respectable  establishment. 

There  is  still  pointed  out  to  the  tourist,  the  remains 
of  two  forts  erected  during  the  French  war,  which 
were  besieged  by  Gen.  Montcalm  in  1756,  and  also 
one  built  during  the  revolution. 

A  steam-boat  runs  daily  from  Oswego  to  Kingston, 
Upper  Canada,  60  miles  distant.  Stages  also  leave 
daily  for  Utica,  70  miles,  to  which  a  rail  road  is  soon 
to  be  constructed. 

Sackct's  Harbor,  40  miles.  This  was  an  import- 
ant military  and  naval  station  during  the  last  war. 
The  Barracks  are  situate  about  400  yards  north-easter- 
ly of  the  village,  on  the  shore.  They  are  a  solid  range 
of  stone  buildings,  and  add  much  to  the  appearance  of 
the  place.  Two  forts  erected  during  the  war  are  now 
in  ruins.  On  Navy-Point,  which  forms  the  harbor, 
there  is  a  large  ship  of  war  on  the  stocks ;  but  which, 
probably,  will  never  be  finished. 

Cape  Vincent,  20  miles.  Kingston  in  Upper  Can- 
ada, is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  1 1  miles  dis- 
tant, with  Grand  Island  intervening. 

MoRRiSTOWN,  50  miles.  The  river  here  is  but  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  wide,  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  is 
the  village  of  Brock  ville. 


Ogdensburgh,  which  terminates  the  passage  of  the 
steam-boat,  is  12  miles  farther,  and  is  situated  on  the 


893 


BITER  8T.   LAWRENCE. 


cast  Bide  of  the  Oswegatche  river,  at  its  confluence  with 
the  St.  Lawrence.  Ttiis  is  a  thriving  village,  contain- 
ing about  300  houses,  and  a  population  of  about  3000 
inhabitants.  A  military  fortification,  consisting  of  two 
stone  buildings  and  a  number  of  wooden  barracks  was 
formerly  erected  here  by  the  British  government,  but 
was  ceded  to  the  United  States  in  1796. 

A  regular  stage  leaves  Ogdensburgh  three  times  a 
week  for  Plattsburgh ;  from  whence  a  steam-boat  can 
be  taken  on  Lake  Champlain  for  St.  John's  or  White- 
hall. 

Stages  also  arrive  and  depart  twice  a  week,  to  and 
from  Montreal ;  and  by  crossing  the  river,  the  coach 
and  steam-boat  line  can  be  taken  at  Prescott  for  that 
place  daily.  Passage  boats,  also,  leave  Ogdensburgh 
about  every  day,  and  descend  the  river  as  far  as  La 
Chine,  7  miles  above  Montreal,  in  3  days.  The  boats 
are  usually  furnished  with  every  necessary  implement 
for  their  good  management,  and  with  skilful  pilots. 
The  latter  are  more  particularly  requisite,  as  the  cur- 
rent of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  generally  very  rapid,  and 
obstructed  by  numerous  shoals  and  islands,  which,  by 
an  inexperienced  navigator,  could  not  without  difficulty 
be  avoided.  The  principal  rapids  are  three  in  number — 
the  Longue  Sault,  the  Rapids  of  the  Cedars*  and  the 


*  It  was  at  this  place  that  Gen.  Amherst's  brigade  of 
300  men,  coming  to  attack  Canada,  were  lost.  The 
French  at  Montreal  received  the  first  intelligence  of  the 
invasion,  by  the  dead  bodies  floating  past  the  town. 
The  pilot  who  conducted  their  first  batteaux  committed 
an  error  by  running  into  the  wrong  channel,  and  the 
other  batteaux  following  close,  all  were  involved  in  tbo 
camo  destruction. 


icnce  with 
»,  contain- 
bout  3000 

ingoftwo 
racks  was 
ment,  but 

e  times  a 
•boat  can 
►r  White- 

Ic,  to  and 
he  coach 
t  for  that 
ensburgh 
ar  as  La 
he  boats 
iplement 
1  pilots, 
the  cur- 
pid,  and 
lich,  by 
ifficulty 
imber — 
and  the 


gade  of 
The 
e  of  tho 
B  town, 
imitted 
ind  the 
in  the 


GALLOP   ISLANDS— ST.    REGIS. 


899 


Cascades  of  St  Louis.  The  first  of  these  are  9  miles 
in  length,  and  are  usually  passed  in  20  minutes,  which 
is  at  the  rate  of  27  miles  an  hour.  The  Rapids  of  the 
Cedars  terminate  about  3  miles  from  the  Cascades, 
which,  after  a  broken  course  of  about  2  miles,  pour 
their  foaming  waters  into  Lake  St.  Louis.  Lake  St. 
Francis,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  25  miles  long,  and  its 
greatest  breadth  15.  The  borders  of  the  lake  are  so 
low  that  they  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  in  passing 
along  its  centre.  At  the  northern  extremity  of  Lake 
St  Francis  is  situated  the  village  of  St.  Regis,  through 
which  passes  the  boundary  line  between  the  Ganadas 
and  the  United  States. 

The  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  exhibit  a  country  re- 
markably fertile,  and  in  many  places  under  good  culti- 
vation. The  perpetual  varying  scenery  along  its  banks, 
occasionally  diversified  with  smiling  fields  and  flourish- 
ing villages,  together  with  the  islands  and  rapids  of  the 
St  Lawrence,  present  a  succession  of  novelties  with 
which  the  traveller  cannot  fail  to  be  gratified. 

Gallop  Islands,  5  miles  from  Ogdensburgh.  The 
river  is  here  divided  into  two  currents,  the  commence- 
ment of  the  great  rapids  below.  From  these  rapids  the 
river  descends  231  feet  in  280  miles.  On  Stoney  Isl- 
and (one  of  the  Gallop  cluster)  the  French  had  a  strong 
fortress,  which  was  taken  and  demolished  by  Gen.  Am- 
herst, in  1760. 

St.  Regis,  54  miles,  is  a  village  occupied  by  a  tribe 
of  Indians  of  that  name,  who  have  a  reservation  of  land 
here  of  considerable  extent.    One  of  their  chiefs,  aged 

aa2 


i 


1 
I 


}00 


MONTREAL. 


about  90,  remarked  to  a  gentleman  of  our  acquaintante 
not  long  since,  that  he  visited  the  High  Rock  Spring 
at  Saratoga  nearly  70  years  ago,  when  the  water  flowed 
ever  the  top  of  the  aperture.* 

Lachine,  53  miles.  From  thence  to  Montreal,  which 
is  7  miles  farther,  the  river  road  is  generally  preferred ; 
from  which  a  charming  view  of  the  rapids  and  of  sev* 
cral  islands  is  enjoyed.  It  also  crosses  the  Lachine 
canal. 

MONTREAL 

Is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  island  of  the  same 
name,  131  miles  from  Ogdensburgh,  and  170  from  due- 
bee.  The  length  of  the  island  is  30  miles,  its  mean 
breadth  7,  and  its  circumference  about  70.  The  city 
extends  along  the  St  Lawrence,  about  2  miles  in  length 
and  half  a  mile  in  width.  The  buildings  are  mostly 
constructed  of  stone,  and  arranged  on  regularly  dispos- 
ed but  narrow  streets.  A  stone  wall  formerly  encircled 
the  city,  which,  by  the  sanction  of  the  government,  was 
some  years  ago  totally  demolished.  Montreal  is  di- 
vided into  the  upper  and  lower  towns.  The  latter  of 
these  contains  the  Hotel  Dieu,  founded  in  1644,  and 
under  a  superior  and  thirty  nuns,  whose  occupation  is 
to  administer  relief  to  the  sick,  who  are  received  into 
that  hospital.  The  French  government  formerly  con- 
tributed to  the  support  of  this  institution  ,*  but  since  the 


*  No  one  living  near  the  Spring  remembers  to  have 
seen  the  water  rise  higher  than  within  8  or  10  inches  of 
the  top  of  the  rock.  At  present  it  is  considerably  lower. 


''■'■^^T'^'I^^T^' 


MONTREAL. 


301 


m 


revolution,  which  occasioned  the  loss  of  its  principal 
funds,  then  vested  in  Paris,  its  resources  have  been 
confined  to  the  avails  of  some  property  in  land.  The 
upper  town  contains  the  Cathedral,  the  English  Church, 
the  Seminary,  the  Convent  of  RecoUets,  and  that  of  the 
Sisters  of  Notre  Dame.  The  general  hospital,  or  Con- 
vent of  Grey  Sisters,  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  a  Httle  distance  from  the  town,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  a  small  rivulet.  This  institu- 
tion was  established  in  1753,  and  is  under  the  manage- 
ment of  a  superior  and  19  nuns. 

Some  of  the  public  buildings  are  beautiful.  Among 
these,  the  new  Catholic  Church,  in  grandeur,  capacious- 
ness, style  and  decoration,  is  probably  not  exceeded  by 
any  edifice  in  America.  It  is  255  feet  long  and  34  feet 
wide,  and  is  sufRciently  capacious  to  hold  10,000  per- 
sons. 

Jfelson''s  Monumtnty  near  the  Market  place,  is  an  ob- 
ject also  meriting  an  accurate  survey. 

The  Museum,  belonging  to  the  Society  of  Natural  His- 
tory, contains  a  numerous  assemblage  of  indigenous 
and  exotic  specimens,  an  examination  of  which  will 
prove  highly  interesting  to  visitors  of  taste  and  science. 

A  visit  to  the  Nunneries  can  generally  be  effected 
without  difficulty ;  though  a  trifling  purchase  of  some 
of  the  manufactures  of  the  nuns  is  generally  expected. 

The  C«Uege  is  a  large  stone  edifice,  3  stories  high, 
and  has  a  spacious  yard  on  tlie  flouth,  adjoining  to 
which  is  a  beautiful  garden.  It  generally  contains 
about  300  students,  an'l  the  ierms  of  tuition  are  80  dol- 
lars per  annum.  Connected  with  the  college  there  is 
«Jso«  preparatory  school,  under  excellent  regulations. 


^fil 


■ij-  tji*-   ^.  .jf- 


802 


MONTREAL. 


The  Parade  is  a  beautiful  public  ground,  on  which 
the  troops  are  usually  drilled. 

The  prevailing  religion  here,  as  well  as  at  duebec,  is 
the  Roman  Catholic.  The  clergy  derive  a  revenue  from 
grants  of  land  made  to  them  under  the  ancient  regime, 
and  from  contributions  ordained  by  the  church.  Be- 
sides these,  a  principal  source  of  revenue  is  from  the 
fines  for  alienation,  which  amount  to  about  8  per  cent., 
paid  by  the  purchaser  of  real  estate,  every  time  the 
same  is  sold,  and  which  extends  to  sales  of  all  real  es- 
tates in  the  seignory  or  island  of  Montreal. 

The  city,  including  its  suburbs,  contains  rising  of 
40,000  inhabitants. 

The  Mountain  of  Montreal,  from  which  the  city  takes 
its  name,  rises  about  2i  miles  distant.     It  is  elevated 
700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  extends  from 
north  to  south  2  miles.    This  ^\)ot  has  already  been  se- 
lected for  the  residence  of  some  private  gentlemen, 
whose  elegant  white  mansions  appear  beautiful  in  con- 
trast with  the  surrounding  foliage.    The  iuland  of  St. 
Helena,  immediately  opposite  the  'city,  is  a  dehghtful 
little  spot,  from  whence  is  had  a  fine  view  of  Montreal, 
with  its  lof\y  mountain  in  the  back  ground,  the  settle- 
ment of  Longueil,  St.  Lambert  and  La  Prairie  de  la 
Madalene,  on  the  east  side\)f  the  river,  and  the  r  <..icr ' 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  dashing  ovcv  the  rocks  of  Le  '^^r^t., 
and  sweeping  their  course  around  a  variety  of  idiaaus. 
The  principal  public  houses  in  the  city  are,  Masonic 
Hall,  in  the  north  part ;  Goodonough's,  St.  Paul  street; 

and  Iv!l!  'nsion  House,  do. 
The  c\    at-5  of  Montreal  is  salubrious,  and  the  city 

had  gc'^^itay  bosn  free  of  epidemic  diseases  until  the 


ti 

I 

tl 

r 
s 
ii 
I 

1 


LACBINB— TAREMNES. 


frammer  of  1839,  when  it  Buffered  severely  from  the  fav- 
agos  of  the  Asiatic  cholera.  It  first  made  its  appear- 
ance in  the  early  part  of  June,  and  in  two  months 
swept  off  SOOO  emigrants  and  inhabitants. 


'a 


EXCURSIONS. 

LACRi.v'F.,  9  miles  from  Montreal,  with  which  it  k 
€(<imected  by  a  canal,  is  a  place  of  considerable  resort, 
fiy  taking  the  river  road,  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  Rap- 
ids, Nuns  and  Heron  Islands,  and  the  Indian  village  of 
Caughnawaga. 

Varennes.   a  stage  and  steam-fooat  leave  Montreal 
for  Varennes,  a  beautiful  village  15  miles  distant,  every 
morning  and  afternoon,   returning  the  ensuing  day. 
The  lines  of  steam*boat8  plying  daily  between  Mon- 
treal and  Ctuebec,  also  touch,  both  ascending  and  de- 
scending, to  receive  and  land  passengers.    From  iho 
Varennes  Spring  Hotel,  located  in  the  village,  is  one  of 
the  most  interesting  views  fh  North  Ameriea,  com- 
manding in  front  the  mountainous  land  on  the  north 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence ;  to  the  west,  the  city  and 
island  of  Montreal,  the  island  and  fortification  of  St. 
Helens,  and  the  winding  course  of  the  river ;  and  on 
iLj  east  a  most  picturesque  group  of  islands,  with  their 
varied  channels ;  while  the  rear  presents  the  most  fer- 
tile and  highly  cultivated  district  in  Lower  Canada, 
with  the  magnificent  mountains  of  Chambly  and  Beloil 
in  the  distance.    The  Hotel,  as  a  building,  is  capacious 
and  furnished  in  a  style  of  superior  neatness  aad  ele- 
gance. 


Al 


r.. .  .1 1  ^. 


304 


RIDEAU   CANAL. 


The  Springs  are  one  mile  from  the  village,  and  are 
approached  by  a  road  on  the  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
forming  a  delightful  promenade,  where  an  extensive 
and  commodious  bath  house  has  b&on  erected.  By  an 
analysis  of  the  waters,  they  prove  to  be  possessed  of 
valuable  medicinal  qualities,  and  are  free  from  substan- 
ces which  can  be  deemed  deleterious.  Varennes  and 
its  vicinity,  therefore,  present  to  those  travelling  in 
pursuit  of  health  and  pleasure,  many  attractions. 

The  RiDEAU  Canal.  This  work,  which  has  been 
made  at  the  expense  of  Great  Britain,  forms  a  naviga- 
ble communication  between  Lake  Ontario  and  the  Ot- 
towa  or  Grand  River,  which  empties  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence opposite  Montreal.  The  object  of  its  construc- 
tion has  been  to  secure,  in  time  of  war,  the  transporta- 
tion of  military  stores,  &c.  by  an  interior  route,  less  ex- 
posed to  the  U.  States,  and  practicable  in  lake  vessels 
of  125  tons.  The  junction  of  the  Rideau  river  with  the 
Ottowa,  which  is  the  lower  extremity  of  the  canal,  is 
120  miles  from  Montreal;  and  from  Kingston,  near 
where  the  canal  enters  Lake  Ontario,  it  is  160  miles  by 
water,  and  130  by  land.  The  discharge  of  the  Rideau 
into  the  Ottowa,  is  marked  by  an  extensive  cove  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  latter  river,  in  a  gulley  existing  be- 
tween the  falls  of  the  Ghaudiere  and  Rideau.  This 
point  appears  to  have  been  reserved  by  nature  for  the 
purpose  to  which  it  is  adapted ;  and,  indeed,  bears  eve« 
ry  characteristic,  both  as  to  its  banks  and  valley,  of 
having  been  formerly  the  bed  of  the  Rideau.  The  ele- 
vation of  the  mouth  of  the  canal  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  is  estimated  at  110  feet,  while  it  is  considered  to  bo 


RlDBAtT  CANAL. 


305 


283  Feet  below  the  summit  level  on  "Rideau  Lake,** 
and  129  below  the  level  of  Lake  Ontario,  at  Kingston^ 

Directly  above  the  mouth  of  the  canal,  may  be  seen 
the  beautiful  and  magnificent  cataract  of  the  Chaudiere. 
It  consists  of  a  series  of  falls,  more  or  less  extensive^ 
and  amounting  in  all  to  31 1  feet  perpendicular.  But 
that  which  stands  most  prominent  to  view,  and  gives  an 
appearance  of  grandeur  to  the  whole,  is  at  the  broadest 
channel  of  the  river,  and  known  by  the  name  of  the 
Grande  ChattdierCf  or  Big  KettUf  from  the  peculiar  for- 
mation of  the  cauldron  into  which  the  waters  fall.  This 
formation  consists  of  a  hard  laminated  lim^'Stone,  in 
horizontal  strata,  and  worn  into  its  present  horse-shoe 
shape  by  the  constant  abrasion  of  the  rolling  water 
over  its  surface.  The  depth  of  the  cauldron  is  said  to 
be  over  three  hundred  feet — at  least,  a  sounding  line 
of  that  length  could  not  be  made  to  touch  bottom. 

Next  in  interest  to  these  may  be  mentioned  the  cata* 
ract  of  the  Rideau,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
where  its  dark  green  waters  fall  from  an  eminence  of 
37  feet,  in  a  single  unbroken  sheet.  The  river  finds  its 
source  in  the  Rideau  Lake,  85  miles  from  the  Ottowa, 
but  is  not  occupied  as  the  bed  of  the  canal  till  about  6 
miles  above  its  entrance,  it  having  been  found  more 
expedient  to  make  use  of  the  natural  valley  and  bay 
already  alluded  to. 

At  this  point  it  became  necessary,  in  consequence  of 
the  rugged  and  precipitate  nature  of  the  banks  of  the 
Ottowa,  to  overcome  the  dilTerence  of  level  between 
the  river  and  canal  by  the  construction  of  a  series  of 
locks,  eight  in  number,  and  each  rising  ten  feet,  giving 
an  aggregate  of  eighty  feet  perpendicular  rise ;  con- 


,  -  -jJipV;  ■ 


306 


RID<>AU  CAKAL. 


structed  in  a  liberal  workmanlike  manner,  and  pre-' 
senting  an  elegant  and  commanding  appearance*  The 
estimated  cost  was  £45,700.  In  the  vicinity  of  the 
locks  are  two  spacious  basins  for  the  reception  of  boats ; 
over  one  of  which  there  is  a  stone  arch,  connecting 
Upper  and  Lower  Bytown. 

About  seventy  miles  of  the  route  passes  through  ei- 
ther extensive  lakes  with  bold  and  rocky  shores,  or  soil 
swampy  meadows,  where  good  foundations  were  unat- 
tainable, save  at  great  additional  expense.  Hence  it 
became  necessary  to  do  away  with  the  ordinary  tow- 
ing path,  tind  enlarge  the  canal  to  a  surface  of  48  feet, 
with  a  depth  of  5  feet  throughout,  to  admitt  the  passage 
of  steam-boats  from  one  extremity  to  the  other. 

The  towns  of  Upper  and  Lower  By,  so  named  after 
the  commandant  of  engineers,  Lieut«  Col.  John  By, 
under  whose  superintendence  the  works  were  con- 
structed, have  already  assumed  a  character  and  import- 
ance which,  when  their  brief  existence  is  taken  inta 
consideration,  is  truly  marvellous.  The  towns  already 
contain,  in  addition  to  their  numerous  dwelling-houses, 
two  large  store-houses  for  the  use  of  the  Ordinance 
and  Commissariat  Departments ;  three  substantial 
buildings  for  the  accommodation  of  the  troops,  erected 
en  the  highest  eminence,  so  as  to  command  both  the 
river  and  canal ;  and  at  a  short  distance  an  excellent 
military  hospital. 

In  the  vicinity  may  also  be  seen,  in  the  <*  Union 
Bridge,''  the  execution  of  one  of  the  most  daring  plans 
ever  conceived.  It  connects  Upper  with  Lower  Cana- 
da, and  is  thrown  directly  over  the  falls  of  the  Chau- 
diere,  taking  advantage  of  the  numerous  rocky  islands^ 


RIDEAU  CANAL. 


307 


embraced  by  the  diverging  branches  of  the  river  at  this 
place ;  and  forming  altogether  a  most  magnificent  and 
imposing  specimen  of  civil  architecture.  The  bridge 
ia  composed  of  six  distinct  arches,  two  of  stone  and  four 
of  wood,  stretching  from  island  to  island  with  various 
spans,  as  circumstances  required ;  and  forming  an  ag- 
gregate length  of  bridge- way  of  781  feet.  Taking 
leave  of  Bytown  and  its  vicinity,  and  proceeding  along 
the  line  until  it  strikes  the  river,  little  of  interest  occurs, 
saving  a  singular  break  in  an  interesting  ridge  of  land, 
extending  for  several  miles  at  an  average  depth  of  about 
thirty-five  feet.  It  is  known  under  the  name  of  the 
"  Notch  in  the  Mountain,"  and  affords  an  opportune 
passage  for  the  canal,  which  would  otherwise,  in  order 
to  pass  it,  have  had  to  encounter  a  heavy  excavation. 

At  the  point  where  the  canal  enters  the  channel  of 
the  river,  are  found  strong  rapids,  confined  on  one  side 
by  a  high  clay  bank,  and  on  the  other  by  a  rocky  shore. 
To  overcome  the  fall  existing  here,  which  is  about  30 
feet,  it  was  necessary  to  drown  the  rapids  by  the  erec- 
tion of  a  large  dam,  and  surmount  the  elevation  by 
three  locks.  This  dam  backs  the  water  as  far  as  the 
"  Black  Rapids" — to  which  point,  and  indeed  thence  all 
the  way  to  its  source  in  the  "Rideau  Lake,"  the  chan- 
nel of  the  river  continues  to  be  used.  The  Rideau,  like 
other  rivers  in  Canada,  is  a  combination  of  rapids  and 
long  sheets  of  still  water,  alternately  intervening,  and 
to  overcome  which  it  is  ever  necessary  to  have  recourse 
to  locks  and  dams.  There  are  fourteen  rapids  between 
Bytown  and  the  Rideau  Lake,  which  are  destroyed  by 
as  many  dams,  and  20  locks  of  various  lifts,  amounting 
in&llto283iflet. 

BB 


308 


RIDEAU  CANAL. 


The  ^*  Rideau  Lake,"  which  is  the  proper  summit  oh 
the  canal,  is  a  beautiful  expanse  of  clear  green  water^ 
30  miles  long  and  12  broad,  surrounded  on  all  sides  bj 
bold,  rocky  and  precipitous  banks.  The  only  inter- 
ruptions which  the  navigation  encounters  across  this 
lake  are  at  **  Oliver's  Ferry"  and  the  "  Rideau  Nar- 
rows," where  considerable  extra  expense  was  incurred 
to  overcome  the  currents  there  created  by  the  contrac- 
tion of  the  waters.   : 

Continuing  the  use  of  the  Rideau  waters  for  the 
■pace  of  45  miles  on  the  summit  level  of  the  route,  its 
course  finally  bends  towards  the  "Cataraqui  River," 
which  has  an  outlet  in  Lake  Ontario  near  Kingston. 
An  excavation  of  10  feet  for  the  distance  of  a  mile  and 
a  half  across  the  isthmus,  existing  between  the  '^  Ri- 
deau" and  "  Mud"  lakes,  was  necessary  to  eficct  this 
object  The  latter  lake  is  3|  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
Rideau,  and  has  a  length  of  12  miles,  with  an  average 
breadth  of  10,  studded  all  over  with  innumerable  small 
islands,  which  give  it  quite  a  picturesque  appearance. 
It  is  intended  eventually  to  raise  the  waters  to  the  lev- 
el of  the  summit  lake. 

Leaving  this  lake»  the  canal  enters  the  "  Indian^"  and 
thence,  instead  of  making  the  long  detour  of  the  river, 
encounters  a  shallow  cut,  by  which,  in  a  more  direct 
line,  the  distance  is  considerably  shortened.  Thence 
following  the  course  of  the  "  Cataraqui"  to  within  55 
miles  of  Kingston,  a  dam  is  met  with,  backing  the  wa- 
ters as  far  as  the  last  mentioned  lake.  The  rapids  con- 
necting this  with  "  Davis'  Lake,"  on  the  right  side  of 
the  river,  are  surmounted  by  dams  and  locks,  so  that 


FROM   MONTREAL  TO   QUEBEC 


309 


the  navigation,  which  was  befoi>e  haztrdouB,  it  now 
perfectly  safe. 

Again,  following  the  course -of  the  "Cataraqui  river** 
for  the  further  distance  of  eight  miles,  and  (successively 
passing  "  Davis"  and  "  Opinicon"  lakes,  together  with 
their  intervening  rapids,  surmounted  as  usual  by  a  dam 
and  lode,  the  tourist  arrives  at  a  point  called  **  Jones' 
Falls,"  35  miles  from  Kingston.  These  falls  descend 
61  feet  within  the  mile,  and  connect  "  Opinicon  Lake" 
with  "Cranberry  Marsh,"  where  the  river  holds  its 
course  through  a  narrow  rocky  ravine.  This  fall  is 
overcome  by  a  dam  and  six  locks.  Thence,  passing 
three  more  smaller  rapids,  with  their  customary  works, 
the  line  at  length  reaches  "  Kingston  Mills,"  where  the 
Cataraqui  empties  itself  into  the  Kingston  Bay,  a  part 
of  Lake  Ontario,  and  tive  miles  distant  from  Kingston. 
This  is  the  upper  extremity  of  the  canal  on  the  Canada 
side,  and  is  terminated  at  its  junction  with  Lake  Ontt- 
Tio  by  the  erection  of  four  locks  of  nine  feet  each. 

The  entire  cost  of  this  canal,  which  with  the  Welland 
canal  (heretofore  noticed)  forms  a  chain  of  internal 
communication  between  Halifax  and  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico, was  rising  of  £600,000. 

FROM  MONTREAL  TO  qUEBEO — 170  miles. 

The  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal  to  duebec  is  nav- 
igarted  by  a  number  of  excellent  steam-boats,  and  the 
passage  between  the  two  cities  is  delightful.  A  large 
majority  of  the  inhabitants  of  Lower  Canada  are  crowd- 
ed together  near  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
few  interruptions  of  forest  land  intervene  in  the  whole 
distance  between  the  two  principal  cities.    The  dwell- 


310 


WILLIAM  HBMRT. 


inga  and  cultivated  grounds  are  so  frequent  and  con- 
tinuous that  each  side  of  the  river,  in  fact,  becomes  al- 
most an  unbroken  street;  with  groups  of  houses  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  several  churches,  which  are  erected  gen- 
erally in  sight  of  the  passing  steam-boat,  except  on 
Lake  St  Peter.  The  churches  are  from  six  to  nine 
miles  distant  from  each  other,  and  upwards  of  twenty  in 
number,  forming,  many  of  them,  prominent  objects  to 
give  embellishment  and  charm  to  the  novel  and  other- 
wise very  attractive  scenery.  All  travellers  sleep  one 
night  at  least  on  board  the  steam-boat  while  journeying 
between  the  two  cities;  and  it  is  recommended  that 
they  should  arrange  the  hour  of  departure  from  Clue- 
bee,  (which  is  always  at  low  water,)  so  that  they  may 
view  by  day-light  that  part  of  the  river  which  had  been 
before  passed  in  the  night.  A  journey  to  Cluebec  and 
back  again,  which  a  few  years  since  was  the  labor  of 
some  weeks,  may  now  be  accomplished,  by  means  of 
Bteam-boats,  in  less  than  three  days.  The  distance 
between  the  two  cities  is  170  miles — fare  $4. 

From  Montreal,  the  boat  first  passes  near  the  Fort 
on  St.  Helen's  Island,  and  soon  enters  the  rapids  of  St. 
Mary ;  in  returning  up  which,  steam-boats  are  often 
drawn  by  cattle.  Proceeding  down  the  river,  the  vil- 
lages of  Longueil,  Longue  Pointe,  Vercheres,  Va- 
rennes.  Point  aux  Trembles,  Contrecoeur,  Repentigny, 
St.  Sulpice,  La  Morage,  Berthier  and  Machiche  are 
successively  passed,  before  reaching  the  town  of 

William  Henry,  which  is  40  miles  from  Montreal. 
It  stands  on  the  site  of  an  old  fort,  built  in  1665,  on  the 
right  bank  of  tlie  river  Sorel,  at  its  confluence  with  the 
St.  Lawrence.    The  present  town  was  commenced  in 


LAKE  8T.  PETER — THREE  RIVERS. 


311 


1785.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  etreots,  crossing 
each  other  at  right  angles,  leaving  a  space  in  the  cen- 
tre about  500  feet  square.  The  number  of  dwellings 
does  not  exceed  200,  and  its  population  2000.  Near 
the  town  is  a  seat  which  was  formerly  the  residence  of 
the  Governor  General  of  Canada,  during  the  summer 
months.  Opposite  the  town,  the  river  Sordi  is  250  yards 
broad,  and  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  150  tons,  for 
twelve  or  fourteen  miles.  On  the  river,  which  unites 
the  waters  of  Lake  Champlain  with  the  St.  Lawrence, 
are  two  considerable  forts,  the  one  at  St.  Johns  and  the 
other  at^hambiy.  Sorel  was  occupied  in  May,  1776, 
by  a  part  of  the  American  army,  under  General  Thom- 
as, on  their  retreat  from  Gluebec. 

Lake  St.  Peter,  some  miles  below  the  town-of  Sor- 
«1,  is  formed  by  an  expansion  of  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence to  15  or  20  miles  in  width,  and  is  21  in  length. 
The  waters  of  the  lake  have  but  little  current,  and  are 
from  8  to  11  feet  deep.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  a 
variety  of  small  islands  are  interspersed,  which  are  tho 
only  ones  that  occur  in  the  St.  Lawrence  till  you  reach 
the  island  of  Orleans,  a  distance  of  117  miles.  On  the 
north  side  of  this  lake  is  the  town  of 

Three  Rivers,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice, 
which  is  divided  by  two  small  islands  into  three  branch- 
es. This  town  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Colonial 
Government,  and  is  now  considered  the  third  in  impor- 
tance in  the  Province.  It  contains  about  400  houses, 
including  a  Roman  Catholic  and  an  Episcopal  church, 
and  a  Convent  of  UrsuUnes — also  the  barracks  former- 
ly occupied  by  the  governor, during  the  French  regime. 
The  number  4)f  inhabitants  is  estimated  at  3000.  Some 

bb2 


312 


RICHBLIEU  RAPIDS* 


miles  up  the  St.  Maurice  are  the  celebrated  falls  of 
Shawinnegamei  a  beautiful  cataract  of  about  100  feet 
descent. 

Seven  miles  below  Three  Rivers,  the  Richelieu  rap- 
ids commence.  The  river  is  compressed  within  less 
than  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  the  water  moves  with 
great  velocity  for  three  or  four  miles ;  but  being  deep 
and  the  current  unbroken,  except  at  the  shores,  the  de- 
scent is  made  by  steam-boats  without  danger,  except 
in  the  night,  when  a  descent  is  never  attempted. 

The  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  occasionally  re* 
lieved  by  the  prospect  of  the  distant  mountains,  the 
highest  of  which  does  not  exceed  1000  feet,  but  rising 
in  the  back  ground  of  the  cultivated  vales  along  the 
borders  of  the  river,  give  an  additional  degree  of  beau- 
ty and  novelty  to  many  of  its  landscapes.  The  alter- 
nate variety  of  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  now  re- 
posing in  stillness  on  the  bosom  of  an  expanded  lake, 
and  now  rushing  with  the  rapidity  of  a  cataract,  added 
to  the  pleasing  efibct  of  the  landscape  scenery,  afibrd 
an  agreeable  repast  to  the  tourist,  until  he  reaches  the 
classic  scenes  of  Ctuebec.  Soon  after  leaving  Cape 
Rouge,  and  the  little  village  of  St.  Nicholas,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river,  the  towers  and  citadel  of 
this  famous  city  open  to  view,  situated  on  a  rock  of  345 
feet  in  height,  called  Cape  Diamond,  from  the  gem-like 
quality  of  the  chrystals  which  are  found  intermingled 
with  the  granite  beneath  its  surface.  In  approaching 
the  city,  you  pass  Sillery  River  and  Cove,  and  Wolfe's 
Cove,  where  he  landed  his  army  to  gain  the  heights  of 
Abraham,  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  Ctuebec. 
Point  Levi  appears  on  the  right,  a  rocky  pj^ecipioe,cov- 


qUBBBC. 


313 


ered  with  white  dwellings,  and  commanding  the  cita- 
del of  Gtuebec  from  ther opposite  shore. 

QUEBEC* 

Is  situated  upon  a  high  peninsular  point  of  land,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  St. 
Charles,  the  junction  of  which  forms  a  capacious  and 
beautiful  bay  and  harbor. 

From  the  New  Exchange  at  the  extremity  of  the 
point  on  the  north  east,  the  limits  of  the  city  jurisdic- 
tion extend  in  a  direct  line  about  north-west  to  a  bend 
in  the  St.  Charles  river,  near  the  General  Hospital. 
On  the  St.  Lawrence  river  the  south-west  point  of  the 
Banlieu  is  about  equi-distant  from  the  Exchange,  the 
whole  plat  approximating  to  a  triangle,  the  longest  side 
of  which  passes  a  short  distance  to  the  west  of  the 
Martello  Towers,  measuring  one  mile  and  five  furlongs 
or  2860  yards  from  the  St.  Charles  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

A  straight  line  drawn  from  one  river  to  the  other,  at 
the  Barrier  on  the  south  and  west,  is  rather  more  than 
a  mile  in  length,  and  the  whole  wall  is  two  miles  and 
three  quarters  in  circuit ;  but  including  the  Citadel,  the 
Esplanade,  the  different  large  gardens,  and  other  va- 
cant spaces,  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  interior 
area  within  the  fortification  remains  unoccupied  for 
buildings. 

The  city  and  environs  are  thus  subdivided :  That 
part  which  is  within  the  walls  is  called  the  Upper 


*  For  a  description  of  this  place,  the  writer  is  princi- 
pally indebted  to  the  "Picture  of  Ctuebec,"  recently 
published  in  that  city. 


S14 


(QUEBEC. 


Town,  mnd  can  be  approached  solely  by  five  gates.  On 
the  eastern  side  of  the  Cape  towards  the  St,  Lawrence, 
there  is  only  one  avenue  to  enter  it,  by  a  circuitous 
steep  hill,  through  Prescott  Gate,  which  is  the  chief 
thoroughfare  for  all  the  commercial  business  of  the 
port,  especially  during  the  navigable  season ;  and  then 
Mountain  street,  as  this  route  is  named,  presents  the 
appearance  of  a  crowded  and  active  population.  On 
the  north  of  the  city,  and  where  the  promontory  hat; 
considerably  declined  in  height,  there  are  two  entran- 
ces— Hope  Gate,  not  far  from  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  rampart,  and  Palace  Gate  adjoining  the  Armory 
and  the  Artillery  Barracks.  These  gates  are  on  that  side 
of  the  city  which  is  washed  by  the  St.  Charles.  From 
the  land  there  are  two  avenues  to  the  interior  of  the  for- 
tifications :  that  to  the  east  is  known  as  the  St.  Louis 
Gate,  which  conducts  by  a  beautiful  road  to  the  Plains 
of  Abraham  ;  the  other  is  at  the  end  of  St.  John  street, 
and  thence  denominated  St.  John^s  Gate.  This  is  the 
route  through  which  the  chief  part  of  the  country  trade 
passes. 

The  long  street  from  the  termination  of  the  Banlieu 
on  the  south-west,  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  skirting  the 
Cape  round  to  the  Wood  Yard  belonging  to  the  gov- 
ernment, including  Mountain  street  to  the  Prescott 
Gate,  and  all  the  other  shorter  streets  below  the  hill 
and  the  river,  are  generally  denominated  the  Lower 
Town.  The  portion  between  the  road  outside  of  the 
Gate  of  St.  Louis  and  that  of  St.  John  street,  to  the 
line  of  the  Banlieu,  is  called  the  suburbs  of  St.  Louis. 
From  St.  John  street  northerly  to  the  Cote  St.  Gene- 
vieve, and  returning  to  the  end  of  the  BanUeu,  all  the 


■.  rrf^r'^''  '*•  t^t*^- 


QUEBEC. 


315 


buildings  are  included  ia  the  St.  Juhn  suburbs ;  and 
the  large  district  extending  from  the  Wood  Yard  along 
by  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  western  extremity  of  the 
Banlieu,  and  bounded  on  the  north-west  by  the  St. 
Charles  river,  bears  the  appellation  of  the  suburbs  of 
St.  Roch. 

As  travellers  are  generally  restricted  to  time,  they 
have  often  failed  to  gratify  their  curiosity  for  want  of  a 
directory  or  guide,  by  which  they  might  with  the  great- 
est facility  view  the  most  important  objects,  and  also 
from  not  having  previously  obtained  a  letter  of  intro- 
duction to  some  respectable  citizen  who  would  accom- 
pany them  in  their  explorations.  To  remove  these  ob- 
stables,  the  following  methodical  plan  of  an  excursion 
through  the  city  and  the  accompanying  descriptions  are 
given.  They  will  be  found  to  be  accurate,  and  will 
save  the  tourist  from  innumerable  perplexities,  to  which 
he  would  otherwise  be  subjected. 

Taking  the  Upper  Town  Market-House  as  the 
place  of  departure,  the  observer  has  on  the  west  the 
ancient  Monastery  of  the  Jesuits,  now  used  as  the  Bar' 
racks  for  the  troops  of  the  garrison.  It  is  a  capacious 
quadrangular  edifice  of  75  yards  by  67,  encircled  by  a 
wall  which  measures  on  the  north  the  whole  length 
of  Fabrique  street,  and  more  than  200  yards  on  Anne 
street.  The  area  enclosed,  and  which  now  is  appropri- 
ated for  the  parades  and  exercises  of  the  troops,  was 
formerly  an  elegant  garden.  Fronting  on  the  east  side 
of  Market-Place  is  the  principal 

Roman  Catholic  Church,  which  is  open  nearly  the 
whole  hours  of  day-light.  It  is  a  massive  unomament- 
ed  and  spacious  stone  building.    From  the  vestibule^ 


Sid 


QUEBEC. 


the  body  of  tho  interior  is  subdivided  into  equal  pro- 
portions. At  the  termination  of  the  nave  is  the  grand 
altar  in  the  middle  of  the  ellipse  constituting  the  sanc- 
tum, the  walls  of  which  are  ornamented  with  represen- 
tations and  figures,  commingled  with  various  other 
graphical  emblems.  Among  the  pictures  are  the  con- 
ception— the  Apostle  Paul  in  his  extatic  vision — the 
Saviour  ministered  unto  by  angels — the  flight  of  Jo- 
seph and  Mary — the  Redeemer  and  the  cross — the  na- 
tivity of  Christ — the  Saviour  under  the  contumelious 
outrages  of  the  soldiers — the  day  of  Pentecost — and  the 
Holy  Family.  During  the  siege  of  Cluebec,  in  1759, 
this  church  was  set  on  fire  by  shells  discharged  from  a 
battery  on  Point  Levi,  and  all  the  paintings  and  orna- 
ments consumed  except  the  first  above  mentioned, 
which  was  afterwards  found  among  the  ruins.  The 
avenue  north  of  the  church  conducts  the  tourist  to 

The  Stminaryy  a  capacious  superstructure  of  stone, 
in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram.  It  is  encircled  by  a 
large  garden,  walled  in,  measuring  in  the  whole  about 
seven  acres.  This  institution  was  established  in  1663, 
and  was  originally  designed  for  the  education  of  eccle- 
siastics ;  but  this  exclusive  system  was  long  since 
abandoned,  and  it  is  now  open  for  the  reception  of  all 
who  comply  with  its  regulations.  Attached  to  the 
Seminary  is  a  museum  of  natural  curiosities  ;  and  on 
the  left  of  the  grand  entrance  from  Market-Place  is 
the  vestibule  of  the  chapel,  in  which  are  a  great  varie- 
ty of  sacred  paintings.  From  this  the  tourist  can  pro- 
ceed to  the  church  ;  and  from  thence  to  the 

Place  tPt^rmeSf  where,  on  the  east  of  the  Pentagon, 
•tood  the  Castle  of  St.  Lewis,  the  former  residence  of 


qUKBEC. 


817 


[ual  pro- 
he  grand 
the  sanc- 
represen- 
us   other 
>  the  con- 
sion — the 
ht  of  Jo- 
— the  na- 
tumelious 
—and  the 
,  in  1769, 
;ed  from  a 
and  oma- 
lentioned, 
ins.    The 

BttO 

of  stone, 
sled  by  a 
ole  about 
in  1663, 
of  eccle- 
|ng   since 
ion  of  all 
id  to  the 
and  on 
Place  is 
leat  vari(s 
can  pro- 
pentagon, 
idence  of 


the  Governor,  and  which  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  tho 
winter  of  1834.  On  tho  west  comer  of  the  Place 
d'Armes  stood  the  Episcopal  church,  which  was  burnt 
a  few  years  since.  On  the  south  side,  and  nearly  ad- 
joining, is  the 

Court  House f  a  plain  neat  building  of  stone  about 
140  feet  long,  and  as  many  broad.  It  stands  where 
once  stood  a  church  belonging  to  the  order  of  the  Rec- 
ollets,  which  was  burnt  in  1796. 

On  the  comer  of  Fort  street,  south  of  the  site  of  the 
castle  of  St.  Lewis,  is  a  large  building  used  for  pub- 
lic offices,  the  front  room  of  which  on  the  first  story 
contains  the  Museum  of  the  "  Society  for  promoting 
Literature,  Science,  Arts  and  Historical  research  in 
Canada."  A  visit  to  it  will  prove  extremely  interest- 
ing. Crossing  tho  Placo  d'Armes  to  Des  Carrieres 
street,  the  visitor  will  next  inspect  tho 

J\Ionumentf  erected  in  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Mont- 
calm. This  consists  of  a  base  and  a  pillar,  surmounted 
by  a  vignette  of  graphic  delineation.  The  base  is  about 
5  by  6  feet,  and  the  whole  height  of  the  monument 
is  sixty'five  feet.  It  contains  two  Latin  inscriptions. 
After  viewing  from  the  promenade  at  the  exterior  of  the 
Governor's  quarters  the  beauteous  landscape  diverging 
to  the  north-east,  the  visitor  will  return  to  St.  Lewis 
street,  where,  after  passing  the  office  of  the  Commissa- 
riat, he  will  turn  by  Parloir  street,  to  the 

Ursuline  Gunnery  and  Church,  This  nunnery  and 
the  land  adjoining  it  occupy  a  space  of  about  sevea 
acres,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  high  barrier  of  stone. 
The  institution  was  founded  in  1639,  and  the  edifice, 
which  is  of  stone,  is  two  stories  high,  114  feet  long, 


313 


(QUEBEC. 


and  about  40  broad.  At  the  east  projec;tion  is  the 
chapel,  about  100  feet  long  and  50  in  breadth,  the  inte- 
rior of  which  is  highly  decorated.  The  convent  is  neat 
and  includes  a  superior,  42  assistants  and  7  novices, 
the  chief  employment  of  whom  is  the  tuition  of  a  large 
number  of  girls  in  common  knowledge  and  other  qual- 
ifications. They  are  more  rig-id  and  retired  than  the 
inmates  of  any  other  conventual  institution  in  Canada. 
Persons  of  distinction  only  are  permitted  to  examine 
the  domestic  departments ;  but  the  Chaplain,  whose 
apartments  are  on  the  right  of  the  entrance,  permits 
strangers  to  examine  the  church  on  application  to  him. 
Among  the  paintings  there  exhibited,  are  the  portraits 
of  some  of  the  Popes — the  birth  of  Immanuel — the  Sa- 
viour exhibiting  his  heart  to  the  Religieuses — the  Sa- 
viour taken  down  from  the  cross — a  cargo  of  Christians 
captured  by  the  Algerines — Louis  xiii  of  France — and 
several  devices  taken  from  the  scriptures.  The  altars 
are  highly  ornamented  and  imposing. 

Leaving  the  nunnery,  the  visitor  will  next  proceed  by 
Anne  street,  with  the  south  wing  of  the  barracks  on 
his  right  to  the  Presbyterian  church.  Passing  its  front 
he  will  leave  the  jail  on  the  right,  where  he  pursues  his 
course  to  the 

Esplanade,  If  he  has  no  citizen  as  a  companion,  and 
no  other  mode  of  visiting  the  fortification,  he  should 
turn  up  St.  Ursule  to  St.  Louis  street,  and  at  the  mili- 
tary offices  request  from  the  adjutant  general  a  card  of 
admission  to  walk  round  the  interior  of  the 

Citadel.  This  stupendous  fortress  circumscribes  the 
whole  area  on  the  highest  part  of  Cape  Diamond,  and 
is  intended  not  only  to  accommodate  the  garrison  as  a 


dUEBEC. 


319 


residence,  parade,  &c.  but  also  to  include  all  the  mate- 
rials of  war.  It  perfectly  commands  the  city  and  river 
St.  Lawrence ;  and  when  completed,  will  be  not  only 
the  most  powerful  specimen  of  military  architecture  on 
the  western  continent,  but  also  a  rival  of  many  of  the 
renowned  works  in  the  Netherlands.  All  attempts  to 
describe  the  Citadel  in  its  present  unfinished  state  would 
be  nugatory. 

Having  entered  the  grand  western  gate,  where  the 
visitor  leaves  his  ticket  with  a  soldier  on  guard,  and 
examined  the  edifice,  he  will  first  proceed  round  the 
course  of  the  citadel  to  the  flag  staff  and  telegraph ; 
thence  southerly  by  the  parapet  bordering  on  the  river 
to  the  machinery  at  the  head  of  the  rail-way,  or  in- 
clined plane,  which  is  500  feet  long,  extending  from 
the  wharf  to  the  Cape,  where  its  perpendicular  eleva- 
tion is  345  feet  above  the  stream.  This  rail- way  is  used 
by  the  government  alone,  to  convey  stones  and  other 
articles  of  great  weight  and  bulk,  for  the  erection  of  the 
new  fortress. 

Having  surveyed  from  the  highest  point  the  majestic 
scene  in  every  diversified  aspect  of  hill  and  dale,  land 
and  water,  the  visitor  will  follow  the  course  of  the  wall 
on  his  left  hand,  until  he  returns  to  the  same  gate,  and 
pursue  his  walk  by  it,  over  St  Louis  gate  along  the 
Esplanade,  until  he  arrives  opposite  the  church  of  the 
Congreganistes,  immediately  below  which  is  the  nation- 
al school-house. 

Proceeding  along  St.  John  street,  he  will  turn  north 
of  St.  Stanislaus  street,  on  the  east  side  of  which  stands 
Trinity  chapel,  whence  crossing  Carle^on  street,  he 
arrives  at  the  artillery  barracks  and  the  armory— -the 

CO 


320 


<IUEBEC. 


latter  of  which  may  bo  inspected,  if  a  resident  of  tho 
city  be  in  company. 

Opposite  the  armory  is  the  anatomical  room  of  the 
medical  society.  Thence  walking  up  Palace  street,  on 
the  right  hand  is  St.  Helen  street,  where  is  Mr.  Chas- 
seur's natural  museum.  Returning  into  Palace  street, 
the  visitor  crosses  obliquely  above  to  Collins'  Lane,  in 
which  stands  on  the  left,  the 

Chapel  of  the  Hotel  Dieu.  These  premises  include  a 
large  proportion  of  the  northern  part  of  the  interior  of 
the  city — commencing  from  the  gate  of  Ihe  burial  ground 
on  Couillard  street  and  extending  to  Palace  street, 
with  a  wall  on  the  north,  parallel  to  the  fortifications ; 
the  whole  space  occupying  about  twelve  acres.  The 
institution  was  commenced  in  1637,  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Duchess  of  Aiguillon,  and  was  consecrated  to 
the  reception  and  care  of  the  sick,  who  are  indigent 
and  distressed.  It  is  a  capacious  edifice,  the  longest 
portion  of  which  extends  nearly  one  hundred  and  thir- 
ty yards  by  seventeen  in  depth,  and  three  stories  high^ 
On  the  north-west  side  from  the  centre,  a  range  is  erect- 
ed  two  stories  high,  fifly  yards  in  length,  and  nearly  as 
many  feet  broad,  plain  and  unadorned.  This  wing  is 
appropriated  for  the  patients  ;  the  upper  story  of  which 
is  occupied  by  the  females.  All  proper  attendance 
both  from  the  nuns  and  physicians,  with  every  neces- 
sary comfort,  is  gratuitously  administered. 

In  the  convent  the  sisterhood  reside,  who  now  include 
the  Buperieure,  thirty-three  religeuses  professes,  two  no- 
vices and  one  postulante.  The  regularity,  neatness 
and  purity  with  which  the  establishment  is  conducted^ 


QUEBEC. 


321 


and  the  solace  of  the  wretched  who  find  refuge  in  this 
hospitable  domain,  are  highly  exemplary. 

The  church  of  the  Hotel  Dieu  externally  is  perfectly 
plain,  and  the  interior  is  little  adorned.  The  paintings 
may  be  examined  upon  application  to  the  chaplain. 

Having  completed  an  examination  of  the  Hotel  Dieu, 
with  the  surrounding  garden,  the  visitor  may  hcaI  fol- 
low Couiilard,  St.  Joachin  and  St,  George's  streets  to 
the  Grand  Battery  and  the  ancient  palace  of  the  Catho- 
lic bishop,  now  used  by  the  provincial  parliament ;  or 
he  can  return  to  Palace  street,  and  continue  his  pro- 
gress to  the  gate,  where,  by  passing  the  guard  house 
and  pursuing  his  walk  easterly,  he  may  accurately  un- 
derstand the  nature  of  the  defence  which  the  city  can 
make  against  external  assault. 

The  first  house  at  which  he  arrives  is  distinguished 
as  the  residence  of  the  renowned  Montcalm.  There  he 
may  turn  to  the  right,  which  willlead  him  to  Couillard 
street,  or  he  can  continue  his  walk  passing  Hope  Gate, 
until  he  arrives  at  the  Look-out  from  the  north-east 
platform  of  the  battery. 

In  the  lower  town,  the  only  objects  which  merit  no- 
tice, besides  the  inclined  plane  or  rail-way  to  the  Cita- 
del, are  the  Exchange  Reading  Room,  and  the  Cluebec 
Library,  which  are  always  open  for  the  admission  of 
strangers,  if  regularly  introduced,  and  are  worthy  of 
inspection. 

About  one  hundred  yards  from  the  lower  end  of  the 
rail-way.  General  Montgomert  and  his  aids  with  other 
men  were  killed  on  the  morning  of  December  31, 1775, 
when  proceeding  to  the  assault  of  Cluebec.  The  plare 
may  be  easily  recognized,  notwithstanding  the  altera- 


323 


QUEBEC. 


tions  which  have  occurred.  At  that  period,  a  narrow 
path  only  was  made  between  the  foot  of  the  hill  and 
the  river,  so  that  vessels  were  fastened  to  the  rock  by 
large  iron  bolts,  one  of  which  still  remains,  near  the 
very  spot  where  the  American  General  and  his  ad- 
vanced party  were  discomfited.  The  wharves,  houses, 
&c.  all  have  been  long  since  constructed.  At  the  top 
of  the  small  ascent  on  the  street  immediately  below, 
the  small  battery  had  been  erected,  near  the  plat  where 
the  southerly  forge  is  now  stationed.  As  Montgomery 
led  on  the  attack,  the  British  retreated  before  him.  In 
passing  round  Cape  Diamond,  the  ice  and  projecting 
rocks  rendered  it  necessary  for  the  Americans  to  press 
forward  in  a  narrow  file,  until  they  arrived  at  the  block 
house  and  picket.  The  General  was  himself  in  front, 
and  assisted  with  his  own  hands  to  cut  down  and  pull 
up  the  picket.  The  roughness  of  the  way  had  so 
lengthened  his  line  of  march,  that  he  was  obliged  to 
wait  for  a  force  to  come  up  before  he  could  proceed. 
Having  re-assembled  about  200  men,  he  advanced 
boldly  and  rapidly  at  their  head  to  force  the  barrier. 
One  or  two  of  the  enemy  had  by  this  time  ventured  to 
return  to  the  battery,  and  seeing  a  match  standing  by 
one  of  the  guns,  touched  it  off,  when  the  American 
force  was  within  forty  paces  of  it  This  single  and  ac- 
cidental fire  struck  down  General  Montgomery  and  his 
aids,  Captain  M'Pherson  and  Captain  Cheesman. 

The  remains  of  Montgomery  were  interred  by  a  sol- 
dier of  the  name  of  Thompson  within  a  wall  that  sur- 
rounded a  powder  magazine  near  the  ramparts  bound- 
ing on  St.  Lewis*  gate ;  and  in  IS  18  were  removed  to 


PLAINS   or  ABRAHAM. 


323 


New- York,  where  they  w^ere  deposited  beneath  a  mon- 
vment  in  front  of  St.  Paul's  church. 

The  Plains  of  Abraham  lie  south  and  west  of  Clue- 
bee.  The  visitor,  on  leaving  St.  Louis  gate,  should  turn 
up  the  stairs  of  the  Glacis,  continue  his  course  under 
the  citadel,  and  pursue  a  path  to  the  right.  At  the 
termination  of  the  enclosure,  the  bank  is  ascended  to 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  near  the  spot  where  Wolfe  died. 
The  large  house  at  a  distance  in  the  front  is  erected  on 
the  site  of  a  French  redoubt,  which  defended  the  as- 
cent from  Wolfe's  Cove,  and  was  the  primary  object  of 
assault  and  capture,  after  the  top  of  the  hill  had  been 
gained  by  the  British  troops.  The  precipice  at  the 
Cove,  from  150  to  200  feet  in  height,  and  full  of  projec- 
tions of  rocks  and  trees,  seemed  to  be  rendered  almost 
impassable.  General  Wolfe,  however,  with  unparal- 
leled fortitude,  led  the  way  in  the  night  (Sept.  12, 1759) 
through  a  narrow  path  winding  obliquely  up  the  hill, 
which,  with  the  assistance  of  boughs  and  stumps,  na- 
bled  him  and  his  troops  to  gain  the  summit.  Here,  by 
day-light  the  next  morning,  they  were  formed  in  line  of 
battle,  in  readiness  to  meet  the  enemy. 

General  Montcalm,  on  receiving  information  that 
the  British  had  possession  of  the  heights,  broke  up  his 
camp  at  Beaufort,  crossed  the  St.  Charles  river,  and  at 
about  10  o'clock  in  the  morning  commenced  the  attack. 
After  a  desperate  struggle  of  about  two  hours,  in  which 
both  commanders  had  been  mortally  wounded,  the 
French  gave  way,  and  left  the  field  in  possession  of  the 
victors. 

Wolfe  fell  at  the  critical  moment  that  decided  tho 
victory.    He  was  wounded  in  the  early  part  of  the  en- 

cc2 


324 


FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCI. 


gagement  by  a  bullet  in  his  wrist— soon  after  by  a  ball 
which  passed  through  his  groin — and  it  was  not  until  a 
third  had  pierced  his  breast,  that  he  sufTcred  himself  to 
be  carried  from  the  field.  "  I  die  happy,»»  w  as  his  ex- 
clamation, when  in  the  arms  of  death  he  heard  the  joy- 
ful shouts  of  victory. 

The  Martello  ToioerSy  consisting  of  four  circular  forts, 
are  situated  at  the  northern  extremity  of  tho  Plains  of 
Abraham,  about  half  a  mile  in  advance  of  .he  exterior 
grand  wall  of  the  fortifications.  They  arc  numbered 
from  the  river  St.  Lawrence  to  the  General  Hospital, 
and  guard  the  approaches  to  the  city  on  the  south  and 
west.  They  are  nearly  40  feet  in  height,  with  a  base 
diameter  almost  equal ;  and  the  exterior  wall  is  of  ample 
strength  to  resist  a  cannonade. 

Ctuebec,  like  Montreal,  sufiered  severely  from  tho 
Asiatic  cholera  in  the  summer  of  1832.  From  the 
commencement  of  the  disease  in  June,  until  its  termi- 
nation about  the  first  of  September,  it  is  estimated  there 
were  not  less  than  2,600  deaths ;  being  equal  to  about 
one  tenth  of  its  population. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  are  situated  about  8 
miles  north-east  of  Ctuebec,  on  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  near  its  junction  with  the  St.  Lawrence.  These 
falls  pour  over  a  perpendicular  precipice  240  feet  in 
height,  and  may  almost  compare  in  beauty  and  gran- 
deur with  the  cataract  of  Niagara. 

The  effect  from  the  summit  of  the  cliff  is  awfully 
grand  and  sublime.  The  prodigious  depth  of  the  de- 
scent of  the  waters  of  this  surprising  fall ;  the  bright- 
ness and  volubility  of  their  course ;  the  swiftness  of 
their  movement  through  the  air  ]  and  the  loud  and  hoi- 


■-.J,.-.?  ■  T"  ■'".';-" 


Falls  of  montmorbnci. 


325 


r  by  a  ball 
not  until  a 
himself  to 
as  his  ex- 
d  the  joy- 

;ular  forts, 
I  Plains  of 
he  exterior 
numbered 
Hospital, 
south  and 
k^ith  a  base 
is  of  ample 

from  the 
From  the 
its  termi- 
kated  there 
1  to  about 

1  about  8 
the  same 
e.  These 
10  feet  in 
Eind  gran- 

s  awfully 
of  the  de- 
le bright- 
iftness  of 
1  and  hol- 


low noise  emitted  from  the  basin,  swellii  g  with  inces- 
i9ant  agitation  from  the  weight  of  the  dashing  waters, 
forcibly  combine  to  attract  the  attention,  and  to  impress 
the  mind  of  the  spectator  with  sentiments  of  grandeur 
and  elevation.  The  breadth  of  the  fail  is  100  feet;  and 
the  basin,  which  is  boi^t  ded  by  steep  cliffs,  forms  an 
angle  of  forty-five  degrees.  When  viewed  from  the 
beach,  the  cataract  is  seen,  with  resplendent  beauty,  to 
flow  down  the  gloomy  precipice,  the  summit  of  which 
is  crowded  with  woods.  The  diffusion  of  the  stream, 
to  the  breadth  of  1,500  feet,  and  the  various  small  cas- 
cades produced  by  the  inequalities  of  its  rocky  bed,  on 
its  way  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  display  a  very  singular 
and  pleasing  combination. 

Remains  of  entrenchments  and  fortifications  erected 
during  the  French  war  are  still  to  be  seen  near  the  falls. 
A  battery  occupied  by  Gen.  Wolfe,  in  June,  1759,  on 
the  precipice  north-east  of  the  falls  is  yet  visible.  The 
French  occupied  the  opposite  bank;  and  Wolfe  at- 
tempted to  storm  their  works  by  fording  the  river  be- 
low the  falls  and  ascending  the  heights.  Without 
forming  in  a  regular  manner,  and  without  waiting  for 
additional  reinforcements  which  were  on  their  way  from 
Point  Levi,  Wolfe's  men  rashly  ascended  the  hill, 
eager  for  the  onset,  and  were  cut  down  by  the  French 
artillery  and  musquetry,  and  obliged  to  retreat.  The 
English  loss  was  about  500 ;  while  that  of  the  French 
was  trifling.  A  storm  coming  on,  further  attempts  to 
dislodge  the  French  were  abandoned.  The  British  af- 
terwards ascended  the  river,  and  the  action  on  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  which  has  already  been  noticed, 
took  place  in  the  month  of  September  following. 


326 


NATURAL  STEPS. 


There  are  three  points  which  afford  the  best  views  of 
the  Falls.  1.  From  the  upper  window  of  the  mill, 
whence  the  projecting  leap  is  safely  seen.  2.  Having 
crossed  the  bridge,  the  visitor  proceeds  along  the  brow 
of  the  hill  until  he  arrives  nearly  in  front  of  the  whole 
cataract ;  from  this  summit,  the  view,  with  the  concom- 
itant circumstances,  inspire  commingled  emotions  of 
awe,  1  error  and  astonishment.  From  the  same  spot 
there  is  u  lucid  and  beauteous  prospect  of  Cluebec, 
with  its  encircling  scenery ;  and  with  an  ordinary  mag- 
nifying glass,  the  observer  can  discern  all  the  promi- 
nent objects — the  steeples,  towers,  fortifications,  prin- 
cipal edifices,  the  shipping,  the  course  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, until  it  is  lost  among  the  hills — Point  Levi  and 
its  vicinity — the  north  side  of  the  island  of  Orleons — 
the  point  of  Angel  Garden — and  the  shores  of  the  river 
as  far  as  Cape  Tourment.  3.  Hence  the  visitor  de« 
scendd  the  hill,  and  pursuing  its  course  to  the  right,  he 
may  ordinarily  advance  to  the  rock  which  interrupts 
the  turbulence  of  the  stream  when  discharged  into  the 
chasm.  In  the  view  from  below,  th«  most  vivid  im- 
pressions of  this  gorgeous  cascade  aro  produced ;  and 
travellers  who  do  not  thus  survey  tha  falls,  can  form 
only  a  faint  and  incorrect  idea  of  its  apparently  chang- 
ing efiect. 

At  a  considerable  distance  above  the  Falls,  the  chan- 
nel of  the  river  is  contracted  between  high  vertical 
rocks,  and  the  water  rushes  with  proportionate  velocity. 
In  one  part,  at  about  half  a  mile  from  the  bridge,  cas- 
cades of  three  or  four  yards  in  depth  ar;3  adjacent  to 
two  fine  geological  curiosities,  familiarly  denominated 
the  JVofuroi  StepSf  which  appear  to  have  been  formed 


i 


LORETTIS. 


327 


Tiew8  of 
the  mill, 
Having 
the  brow 
le  whole 
concom- 
)tions  of 
me  spot 
Ctuebec, 
ry  mag- 
3  promi- 
is,  prin- 
5t.  Law- 
levi  and 
rleons — 
the  river 
litor  de- 
right,  ho 
;errupts 
into  the 
vid  im- 
d;  and 
in  form 
chang- 

e  chan< 
vertical 
elocity, 
*e,  cas- 
cent  to 
(linated 
formed 


by  the  attrition  of  the  stream,  occasioned  by  the  melt- 
ing  of  the  snows  and  the  augmented  rapidity  of  the 
flood.  Many  of  these  steps  are  so  regular,  that  they 
almost  develope  the  process  of  human  art.  The  per- 
pendicular attitude  of  the  rocks  on  the  east  side — the 
tree-crowned  summit — the  uniformity  of  appearance, 
resembling  an  ancient  castle  wall  in  ruins — the  preci- 
pices on  the  western  bank — and  the  foaming  noisy  cur- 
rent, pourtray  a  romantic  wildness,  which  is  highly 
attractive.  Observers  are  amply  remunerated  for  their 
walk,  as,  conjoined  with  this  interesting  object,  they 
witness  the  continuous  descent  and  the  accelerating 
force  and  celerity  with  which  the  river  is  propelled  to 
the  point,  whence  it  is  precipitated  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence. 

LoRETTE,  an  Indian  village,  about  8  miles  from  the 
city,  can  be  taken  in  the  route  to  or  from  the  falls  of 
Montmorenci.  It  is  built  upon  an  elevated  situation, 
whence  there  is  an  extensively  varied  and  agreeable 
landscape,  in  many  points  similar  to  that  from  Cape 
Diamond,  but  also  including  some  interesting  novelties 
of  outline.  It  exhibits  a  bold  and  beautiful  view  of 
Ctuebec  and  its  suburbs,  and  in  its  extent  it  is  bounded 
solely  by  the  distant  southern  mountains.  The  Indian 
inhabitants  of  the  village  retain  many  of  the  prominent 
characteristics  of  the  aboriginal  roamers  of  the  forest, 
combined  with  vicious  habits  contracted  by  their  proX' 
imity  to  a  large  sea-port,  and  their  intercourse  with  its 
migratory  population.  At  this  village  is  a  very  charm- 
ing view  of  the  river  St.  Charles,  tumbling  and  foaming 
over  the  rocks  and  ledges  to  a  great  depth.  The  rug- 
ged and  perpendicularly  elevated  woody  cliffs,  in  con- 


,.l-.v  .■  An'mn'it-    .i  .A  '.'  ..I-.,-  i-     t£r...  A"\ti 


398 


CHAUDIERE  FALLS. 


nection  with  the  impetuoudrush  of  the  waters,  although 
circumscribed  in  extent,  and  therefore  affording  no  ex- 
panded prospect  in  immediate  front,  yet,  as  seen  from 
the  Saw-Mill,  and  from  the  bank  and  the  bridge  at  the 
head  of  the  dell,  in  its  different  positions  and  aspects, 
constitute  an  object  which,  when  contrasted  with  the 
more  majestic  cataracts  of  Montmorenci  and  the  Chau- 
diere,  or  recollected  in  combination  with  them,  furnishes 
in  memorial  an  addition  to  the  varieties  which  those 
stupendous  natural  curiosities  embody. 

The  Chaudiere  Falls  can  be  approached  by  land 
or  water.  The  former  is  generally  preferred,  the  dis- 
tance to  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  being  nine  miles 
from  Ctuebec.  From  thence  visitors  can  cross  at  the 
ferry  and  take  an  indirect  path  to  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  or  diverge  from  the  St.  Lawrence  some  distance 
north  of  the  Chaudiere,  and  arrive  within  a  short  walk 
of  the  falls  on  the  eastern  bank.  The  river  at  the  cas- 
cade is  much  compressed,  being  only  about  400  feet 
across ;  and  the  depth  into  the  Pof,  as  it  is  usually 
termed,  is  about  135  feet.  Many  rocks  divide  the 
stream,  precisely  at  the  fall,  into  three  chief  currents,  of 
which  the  westerly  is  the  largest — these  partially  re- 
unite before  their  broken  and  agitated  waves  are  re- 
ceived into  the  basin ;  where  each  dashing  against  the 
other  maintains  a  turbulent  whirlpool.  The  form  of 
the  rock  forces  a  part  of  the  waters  into  an  oblique  di- 
rection, advancing  them  beyond  the  line  of  the  preci- 
pice, while  the  cavities  in  the  rocks  increase  the  foaming 
fury  of  the  revolving  waters  in  their  descent,  displaying 
globular  figures  of  brilliant  whiteness,  which  are  richly 
contrasted  with  the  encircling,  dark  and  gloomy  clifis, 


ST.  LAWRXNCE  RITGR. 


329 


■ 


while  the  ascending  spray  developes  all  the  variety  of 
the  coloured  cloudy  arch,  and  enlivens  the  beauty  of 
the  landscape :  the  wild  diversity  of  rocks,  the  foliage 
of  the  overhanging  woods,  the  rapid  motion,  efful- 
gent brightness  and  the  deeply  solemn  sound  of  the 
cataracts,  all  combining  to  present  a  rich  assemblage  of 
objects  highly  attractive,  especially  when  the  visitor, 
emerging  from  the  wood,  is  instantaneously  surprised 
by  the  delightfui  scene.  Below,  the  view  is  greatly 
changed,  and  the  falls  produce  an  additional  strong  and 
vivid  impression.  If  strangers  only  view  the  falls  from 
one  side  of  the  river,  the  prospect  from  the  eastern 
shore  is  recommended  as  preferable. 

The  Mo!'tmorenci  and  Chaudiere  Falls,  the  village 
of  Lorette  and  Lake  St.  Charles,  together  with  the 
scenery  of  Orleans,  a  beautiful  island  six  miles  down 
the  St.  Lawrence,  Beaufort  and  Point  Levi,  will  always 
afford  interesting  excursions  to  the  tourist  at  Gtuebec 


The  St.  Lawrence  below  GIuebec. — ^Those  who 
have  not  seen  this  part  of  this  greatest  of  the  navigable 
rivers  in  the  world,  can  form  but  a  very  imperfect  idea 
of  its  grandeur,  and  the  magnificence  of  its  scenery. 
Above  the  island  of  Orlrjans,  the  St.  Lawrence  is  com- 
paratively confined  to  a  narrow  channel  passing  through 
a  level  country,  offering  much  sameness  on  the  south 
shore,  with  the  mountains  on  the  north,  too  distant  to 
produce  much  effect.  The  views  on  the  great  Lakes 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  in  the  Upper  Province,  stretching 
out  of  sight  of  land,  differ  little  from  those  on  any  ex- 
tended sea  coast  studded  with  islands,  and  bordered 
with  towns  and  habitations. 


330 


ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


Tho  St  Lawrence  below  the  Island  of  Orleans,  from 
many  points  on  its  northern  banks,  lays  open  to  the 
view  a  hundred  miles  of  a  river  varying  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  miles  in  width,  the  whole  course  and  coast 
of  which,  in  this  clear  atmosphere,  can  bo  distinctly 
discerned.  Beautiful  islands  covered  with  neat  dwell- 
ings and  cultivated  fields,  contrast  with  those  that  are 
of  bare  rock,  or  covered  with  wood ;  the  crowded  set- 
tlements, the  villages  and  distant  highlands  on  tho 
south  shore,  are  opposed  to  the  bold  and  lofly  moun- 
tains of  the  north,  crowned  with  the  native  forests,  and 
impending  over  the  margin  of  the  river,  while  the  val- 
leys formed  by  tho  streams  and  torrents  of  these  moun- 
tain regions,  leave  openings  in  which  the  village  spires 
are  discernible  in  front  of  the  bare,  rugged  and  stupen- 
dous ranges  in  the  interior.  In  other  places  the  set- 
tlements extend  nearly  to  the  tops  of  the  mountains, 
presenting  to  the  view  neat  dwellings,  luxuriant  har- 
vests, and  green  fields,  etched  out  on  the  face  of  the 
wildest  of  nature's  domains.  Along  the  main  channel 
of  the  river,  numbers  of  the  thousands  of  vessels  which 
frequent  Ctuebec  during  the  season  of  navigation,  are 
continually  passing  up  or  down  under  crowded  sails, 
or  quietly  anchored,  waiting  the  tides  or  winds,  and 
from  behind  every  cape  and  promontory,  among  the  isl- 
ands, and  in  every  bay  and  creek,  the  smaller  vessels 
and  boats  are  constantly  plying  in  the  industrious  pur- 
suits of  the  inhabitants,  or  on  excursions  of  social  in- 
tercourse. It  is  a  scene  which  elevates  the  mind  to 
devout  contemplation,  and  a  just  appreciation  of  the 
benefits  o^  peaceful  industry. 


I 


8A0UENAT   RIVKR. 


331 


cans,  from 
pen  to  the 
I  twenty  to 
)  and  coast 
I  distinctly 
neat  dwell- 
le  that  are 
owded  set- 
ids  on  the 
ofty  moun- 
brests,  and 
lile  the  val- 
bese  moun- 
llage  spires 
ind  stupen* 
es  the  set- 
mountains, 
uriant  har- 
ace  of  the 
in  channel 
sels  which 
;ation,  are 
ded  sails, 
inds,  and 
|ng  the  isl- 
er  Tessels 
rious  pur- 
social  in- 
mind  to 
Ion  of  the 


The  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are 
estimated  at  about  100,000. 

The  Sagucnat,  which  enters  the  St.  Lawrence  on 
its  northern  shore,  about  100  miles  below  Ctuebec,  is 
one  of  the  most  extraordinary  rivers  in  the  world.  It 
is  the  grand  outlet  of  the  waters  from  the  Sagucnay 
country  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  although  only  a 
tributary  stream,  has  the  appearance  of  a  long  mountain 
lake,  in  an  extent  of  fifty  miles,  rather  than  that  of  8 
river.  The  scenery  is  of  the  most  wild  and  magnificent 
description.  The  river  varies  from  about  a  mile  to  two 
miles  in  breadth,  and  follows  its  impetuous  course  in  a 
south-east  direction,  through  a  deep  valley  formed  by 
mountains  of  gneiss  and  sienitic  granite,  which  in  some 
places  rise  vertically  from  the  water  side  to  an  elevation 
of  two  thousand  feet. 

There  is  a  feature  attending  this  river^  which  renders 
it  a  natural  curiosity,  and  '  probably  the  only  instance 
of  the  kind.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  about  eighteen  miles 
wide  at  their  confluence,  and  has  a  depth  of  about  two 
hundred  and  forty  feet.  A  ridge  of  rocks  below  the 
surface  of  the  water,  through  which  there  is  a  channel 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  deep,  lies  across  the 
mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  within  which  the  depth  in- 
creases to  eight  hundred  and  forty  feet,  so  that  tl  bed 
of  the  Saguenay  is  absolutely  six  hundred  feet  below 
that  of  the  St.  Lawrence  into  which  it  falls,  a  depth 
which  is  preserved  many  miles  up  the  river.  So  extra- 
ordinary a  feature  could  only  occur  in  a  rocky  country, 
such  as  is  found  in  some  parts  of  Canada,  where  the 
beauties  of  nature  are  displayed  in  their  wildest  form. 
The  course  of  the  tide,  meeting  with  resistance  from 

DD 


332 


SAOnSNAT  RIVER. 


the  rocks  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sag-uenay,  occasions  a 
violent  rippling  or  surf,  which  is  much  increased  and 
exceedingly  dangerous  to  boats  during  the  ebb  tide. 
The  extraordinary  depth  of  the  river,  and  the  total  want 
of  information  concerning  it,  has  given  rise  to  an  idea 
among  the  credulous  fishermen,  of  its  being  in  many 
parts  unfathomable.  This  effect  is  admissible  on  unin- 
formed minds,  for  there  is  always  an  appearance  of 
mystery  about  a  river  when  its  water  is  even  discol- 
oured so  as  to  prevent  the  bed  from  being  seen,  and  the 
delusion  is  here  powerfully  assisted  by  the  lofty  over- 
shadowing precipices  of  either  shore. 

Following  the  course  of  the  river  upwards,  it  pre- 
serves a  westerly  direction  to  the  distance  of  about  60 
miles,  in  some  parts  about  half  a  mile  broad,  in  others 
expanding  into  small  lakes,  about  two  miles  across  to 
their  borders,  being  interspersed  with  a  few  low  islands. 
In  the  narrow  parts  of  the  river,  the  depth  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  few  yards  from  the  precipice  forming  the 
bank  is  six  hundred  feet,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  river 
it  increases  to  nearly  nine  hundred.  Here  the  navigation 
is  suddenly  terminated  by  a  succession  of  falls  and 
rapids,  near  which  is  situated  the  trading  port  of  Chi- 
cotimy.  At  this  place  there  is  an  old  church,  built 
about  two  centuries  ago  by  the  Jesuits,  who  were  ac- 
tive in  civilizing  the  native  Indians.  The  church  is  still 
kept  in  decent  repair  by  the  Indians,  and  is  annually 
visited  by  a  missionary  priest.  These  people  are  few 
in  number  and  are  not  to  be  met  with  between  this  tra- 
ding post  and  the  mouth  of  the  river.  A  fine  tract  of 
country  commences  here,  intersected  by  several  rivers 
issuing  from  Lake  St.  John,  distant  about  sixty-seven 


FROM  QUEBEC  TO  MONTREAL, 


333 


ccasions  a 
eased  and 
)  ebb  tide, 
total  want 
to  an  idea 
y  in  many 
le  on  unin- 
earance  of 
^en  discol- 
en,  and  the 
lofty  over- 

rds,  it  pro- 

)f  about  60 

d,  in  others 

s  across  to 

ow  islands. 

at  the  dis- 

)rming  the 

of  the  river 

navigation 

f  falls  and 

art  of  Chi- 

urchy  built 

3  were  ac- 

iirch  is  still 

s  annually 

e  are  few 

in  this  tra- 

e  tract  of 

leral  rivers 

ixty-seven 


miles  farther  to  the  westward.  The  little  communica- 
tion  which  is  carried  on  with  this  lake  is,  by  means  of 
these  rivers,  in  bark  canoes  and  batteaux  and  flat- 
bottomed  boats  of  the  country  ;  but  it  is  subject  to 
much  interruption  from  the  portages  or  carrying  places 
necessary  to  avoid  the  numerous  falls  in  them.  The 
tide  of  emigration  is  directed  in  this  quarter. 

It  was  in  this  river  that  the  ships  of  the  French 
squadron  found  a  secure  retreat,  at  the  memorable  siege 
of  Cluebec  under  Gen.  Wolfe. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  360  miles  below 

Cluebec,  the  river  is  100  miles  wide.    It  here  connects 

with  the  Gulph  of  St.  Lawrence,  350  miles  long  and 

1 50  wide,  which  communicates  with  the  Atlantic  by 

y         three  different  passages. 

FROM   QUEBEC   TO  MONTREAL. 

In  returning  to  Montreal,  the  traveller  (as  before  re- 
marked) should,  if  practicable,  take  a  boat  at  such  an 
hour,  as  to  give  him  a  chance  of  viewing  by  day-light 
on  the  river  the  scenery  which,  in  descending,  was 
passed  in  the  night. 

The  approach  to  Montreal  in  ascending  the  river  is 
extremely  beautiful.  The  mount  behind  the  city  cloth- 
ed in  a  rich  and  unbroken  foliage,  the  numerous  adja- 
cent country  seats,  the  spires  and  edifices  of  the  city, 
and  the  beautiful  woody  island  in  front,  all  conspire  in 
presenting  a  rich  and  truly  diversified  landscape,  and 
one  that  will  not  be  easily  effaced  from  the  memory, 
[For  a  description  of  Montr edf  tetp,  300.] 


334 


PROM  MONTREAL  TO  WHITEHALL. 


FROM  MONTREAL*  TO  WHITEHALL 

Is  178  miles,  and  the  intervening  distances  are  as 
follows : 


MUes. 
By  steam  ho<U. 
From  Montreal  to  La 
jL  rairiGj*  •■•••••••••     / 

By  rail  road. 

St.  Johns, 17 

By  steam  boat. 

Isle  Aux  Noix, •  14 

Rouse's  Point, 10 

Chazy, 12 


Miles. 

Plattshurgh, 15 

Port  Kent, 15 

Burlington, 11 

Split  Rock, 12 

Essex, 2 

Basin  Harbor, 12 

Crown  Point, 12 

Ticonderoga, 15 

Whitehall, 24 


La  Prairie,  7  miles  from  Montreal,  is  reached  by 
steam  boat.  It  is  a  village  of  between  two  and  three 
hundred  houses,  and  is  the  grand  thoroughfare  of  trade 
between  Montreal  and  St.  Johns. 

The  La  Prairie  and  St.  Johns  Rail  Road  com- 
mences at  this  place  and  extends  to  St.  Johns,  the  termi- 
nating point  of  steam  boat  navigation  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  The  road,  which  is  17  miles  long,  is  very  straight, 
and  over  a  remakrably  level  country ;  and  the  time  usu- 
ally employed  in  passing  over  it  by  steam  is  one  hour. 

St.  Johns,  17  miles.  This  place  was  an  important 
post  during  the  French  and  Revolutionary  wars.    In 


*  At  Montreal  a  stage  can  be  taken  twice  a  week  for 
Danville,  Vt.,  distance  100  miles  ;  from  thence  to  the 
Notch  in  the  White  Mountains,  28  miles  ;  from  thence 
to  Concord,  N.  H.,  75  miles ;  and  from  thence  to  Bos- 
ton, 68  miles.  The  whole  route  is  performed  in  four 
days.  [For  a  description  of  the  White  Mountains,  see 
**  Route  from  Burlington  to  Boslon.^^] 


^' 


LAKE  CHAMPLAIir. 


335 


:es  are  as 

Miles, 

15 

15 

11 

12 

2 

12 

12 

15 

24 

reached  by 
)  and  three 
are  of  trade 

OAD  com- 
I,  the  termi- 
ike  Cham- 
•y  straight, 
time  usu- 
one  hour, 
important 
wars.    In 


week  for 
ice  to  the 
)m  thence 
;e  to  Bos- 
bd  in  four 
itainSf  see 


the  latter  it  was  taken,  after  a  gallant  defence,  by  Gen. 
Montgomery,  as  was  also  Chambly.  It  contains,  at 
present,  150  houses  and  1000  inhabitants.  Though  a 
place  of  considerable  business,  it  possesses  nothing  in 
its  appearance  or  accommodations  inviting  to  a  stran- 
ger. Steam  boats  leave  St.  Johns  daily  for  Whitehall, 
and  touch  at  all  the  intermediate  places  on  the  Lake. 
Fare  through,  $5. 

LAKE  CHAMPLAIN 

Forms  part  of  the  boundary  line  between  the  states 
of  New-Yo'-k  and  Vermont.  Its  length  is  140  miles, 
and  the  grt  .  ,  •  breadth  14.  A  great  proportion  of  the 
lands  on  tLo  uiargin  of  the  lake  are  still  unredeemed 
from  a  state  of  nature,  and  in  some  places,  particularly 
at  the  north  end,  are  low  and  marshy.  After  entering 
the  territories  of  the  United  States,  the  country  is  more 
populous,  and  under  a  better  state  of  improvement. 
The  villages  seen  from  the  lake  all  exhibit  a  cheerful 
and  thriving  appearance.  The  lake  properly  terminates 
at  Mount  Independence ;  from  whence  to  Whitehall,  a 
distance  of  23  miles,  it  assumes  the  appearance  of  a 
river,  in  which  little  more  than  room  is  left  at  any  point 
to  turn  the  boat.  The  history  of  Champlain  involves 
many  interesting  events  associated  with  the  French  and 
Revolution ::.ry  wars.  During  those  periods  several  for- 
tifications were  constructed,  which  have  since  under- 
gone some  repairs,  but  are  now  in  a  state  of  decay. 
The  ruins  of  the  ancient  fortresses  at  Ticonderoga  and 
Crown  Point  are  still  visible. 

Isle  Aux  Noix,  14  miles  from  St.  Johns.    This  is  a 
fltrong  military  and  naval  post  possessed  by  the  Eng- 

dd2 


336 


rLATTSBUROH. 


Hsh.  The  works  are  generally  in  good  preservation  ; 
and  a  '  occupied  by  a  small  military  corps.  In  the  ex- 
pedition against  Canada  in  1775,  the  troops  under  Gen- 
erals Schuyler  and  Montgomery  went  down  the  lake 
in  rafts  and  landed  at  this  island,  from  whence  they 
proceeded  to  St.  Johns.  The  other  detachment,  under 
General  Arnold,  marched  by  land  through  the  present 
state  of  Maine  (then  a  wilderness)  to  duebcc. 

Rouse's  Point,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain, 
and  10  miles  from  the  Isle  aux  Noix,  contains  strong 
Btone  fortifications,  erected  by  the  United  States,  but 
which  by  the  decision  of  the  commissioners  appointed 
to  settle  the  boundary  line  between  the  American  and 
British  governments,  fell  within  the  territories  of  the 
latter. 

The  Village  op  Plattsburch,  27  miles  further,  is 
handsomely  located  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  river, 
t>n  th.)  west  side  uf  Lake  Champlain.  It  contains  about 
350  dwellings,  besides  the  court  house  and  prison  for 
the  county,  a  bank  and  several  churches.  The  num- 
ber of  inhabitants  is  about  3000.  This  place  is  render- 
ed celebrated  by  the  brilliant  victory  of  M'Donough  and 
Macomb,  over  the  British  land  and  naval  forces  unuer 
Sir  George  Provost  and  Commodore  Downie.  The 
naval  engagement  took  place  in  fron*  of  the  village, 
which  overlooks  the  extensive  Bay  of  I'lattsburgh  for 
several  miles.  Here  the  American  Commodore  waited 
at  anchor  the  arrival  of  the  British  fleet,  which  appear- 
ed passing  Cumberland  Head,  about  8  in  the  morning 
of  the  11th  September,  1814.  The  first  gun  from  the 
fleet  was  the  signal  for  commencing  the  attack  on  land. 
8ir  George  Provost,  with  abont  14,000  men,  furiously 


^  i 


•''.'iv^)t'.HFfffir>.i*'«r;:«  '  ■■"(^";r''r«'x*'i';^f7^;  ■■  v.>T"f ;."■: ^v>r 


PLATTSBURGH. 


337 


eservation ; 
In  the  ex- 
under  Gen- 
m  the  lake 
hence  they 
nent,  under 
the  present 
►ec. 

Champlain, 
tains  strong 
States,  but 
s  appointed 
nerican  and 
:>ries  of  the 

3  further,  is 

ranac  river, 

itains  about 

i  prison  for 

The  num- 

e  is  render- 

)nough  and 

)rces  under 

irnie.    The 

the  village, 

sburgh  for 

ore  waited 

ch  appear- 

e  morning 

from  the 

:k  on  land. 

furiously 


assaulted  the  defences  of  the  town,  whilst  the  battle 
raged  with  increasing  ardor  between  the  fleets,  then 
contending  in  full  view  of  the  respective  armies.  Gen- 
eral Macomb,  with  his  gallant  little  army,  consisting 
of  about  3000  men,  mostly  undisciplined,  foiled  the 
repeated  assaults  of  the  enemy,  until  the  capture  of  the 
British  fleet,  afl;er  an  action  of  two  hours,  obliged  him 
to  retire,  with  the  los?  of  2500  men,  together  with 
considerable  baggage  and  ammunition.  The  Ameri- 
can force  on  the  lake  consisted  of  86  guns,  and  820 
men  j  and  was  opposed  to  a  force  of  95  guns,  and  1050 
men.  Thus  ended  the  affair  at  Plattsburgh,  no  less 
honorable  to  American  valor  than  derogatory  to  the 
British  arms.  Commodore  Downie  was  killed  in  the 
engagement.  He  was  represented  as  a  brave  and 
skilful  officer;  but  was  opposed  to  the  method  of  at- 
tack on  the  American  flotilla.  Both  fleets  are  now  dis- 
mantled, and  moored  at  Whitehall. 

A  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Commodore 
Downie,  in  the  church  yard  at  Plattsburgh,  contains 
the  following  inscription : 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  George  Downie,  Esq. 
a  Post-Captain  in  the  Royal  British  Navy,  who  glori- 
ously fell  on  board  his  B.  M.  S.  the  Confiance,  while 
leading  the  vessels  under  his  command  to  the  attack  of 
the  American  flotilla  at  anchor  in  Cumberland  Bay,  off" 
Plattsburgh,  on  the  11th  September,  1814.  To  mark 
the  spot  where  the  remains  of  a  gallant  officer  and  sin- 
cere friend  were  honorably  interred,  this  stone  has  been 
erected  by  his  affectionate  sister-in-law  Mary  Downie." 

The  remains  of  a  number  of  officers  of  both  armies, 
who  fell  in  the  engagement,  repose  near  the  Commo- 


338 


PLATTIBURGH. 


dore,  with  no  monument  to  infoim  tho  stranger,  zad 
with  no  record  but  tradition  to  denote  the  spot  of  their 
interment.  East  of  Downie  are  five  graves,  occurring 
in  the  following  order :  Commencing  south — Captain 
Copeland,  an  American  officer — ^Lieut.  Stansbury,  of 
the  American  navy — Lieut.  Runk,  of  the  American  ar- 
my— Lieut.  Gamble,  of  the  American  navy — and  a 
British  Sergeant.  On  the  north  side  of  Downie  are  the 
remains  of  the  British  Lt  Col.  Wellington — on  the 
south,  two  British  Lieutenants — on  the  west.  Captain 
Purchase  and  four  other  ofiicers,  three  of  whom  were 
British. 

The  traveller  will  find  many  objects  of  interest  at 
Plattsburgh,  which  will  warrant  his  continuance  there 
for  one  or  two  days.  A  short  distance  from  the  village 
are  the  cantonement  and  breast  works  occupied  by 
Gen.  Macomb  and  his  troops  during  the  last  war.  A 
mile  north  is  shown  the  house  possessed  by  Gen.  Pre- 
vost  as  his  head  quarters  during  the  siege  in  1814;  be- 
tween which  and  the  village,  the  marks  of  cannon->shot 
on  uees  and  other  objects,  are  still  visible.  Farther 
onward,  about  5  miles,  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  village 
of  Beekmantow^n,  is  shown  the  spot  where  a  sanguina- 
ry engagement  took  place  between  the  American  and 
British  troops,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  the  Brit- 
ish Col.  Wellington,  and  several  men  of  both  armies. 
Col.  W.  was  killed  in  the  centre  of  the  road,  about 
equi-distant  from  the  summit  and  foot  of  the  hill. 

M^Donmgh^s  Farm,  granted  by  the  legislature  of 
Vermont,  lies  on  Cumberland  Kead,  nearly  east  of 
Plattsburgh ;  a  ride  to  which,  around  the  bay,  in  the 
warm  season,  is  refreshing  and  delightful. 


PORT  KENT — HIGH  BniDGE. 


3S9 


Port  Kent,  15  miles  southerly  from  Plattsburgh  by 
water,  and  15  by  land.  It  contains  a  few  buildings 
and  a  wharf,  at  which  passengers  are  landed  from  the 
steam  beat.  From  this  place  may  be  seen,  on  the 
north,  the  Isle  La  Mott,  26  miles  distant.  Grand  Island, 
the  Two  Sistera,  Point  La  Roche,  Cumberland  Head, 
and  Lslcore  and  Macomb^s  Islands ;  on  the  east.  Stave, 
Providence  and  Hog  Islands,  Colchester  Point,  and  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont;  on  the  south,  the  vil- 
lage of  Buritngton,  about  1 1  miles  distant,  with  the 
high  peak  tailed  the  Camel's  rump  ;  the  whole  form- 
ing a  most  delightful  and  pleasant  landscape  not  ex- 
celled at  any  other  point  of  the  lake  passage.  Three 
miles  west  from  Port  Kent,  are  the  celebrated 

Adgate's  Falls.  They  are  situated  on  the  river 
A'Sable,  and  take  their  name  from  a  person  residing 
there,  who  is  the  proprietor  of  some  valuable  mills  in 
the  vicinity.  The  water  pours  over  a  preci"  'ce  about 
80  feet  in  height,  into  a  narrow  channel  o»  the  river, 
the  banks  of  which  consist  of  rock,  rising  perpendicu- 
larly to  the  height  of  from  60  to  100  feet.  At  what  is 
called  the 

High  Bridge,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  falls,  the 
channel  is  narrowed  to  27  feet.  The  height  of  the  rocks 
here,  . ,  hich  are  perpendicular,  is  93  feet,  and  the  water 
35  feet  deep.  Over  this  chasm  a  bridge  was  once 
erected,  by  throwing  timbers  across  ;  but  it  has  since 
decayed.  The  sensations  produced  on  looking  into 
this  gulf  are  terrific,  and  the  stoutest  heart  involun- 
tarily shrinks  from  the  contemplation.  There  is  an 
indifferent  road  from  the  falls  to  the  High  Bridge,  but, 
with  this  exception,  the  spot  is  yet  a  wilderness. 


340 


BURLINGTUN— CROWN   POINT. 


About  4  roUes  in  a  westerly  direction  from  this,  is  the 
thriving  village  of  Kbeseville,  which  contains  several 
manufactories,  a  bank,  two  newspaper  establishments 
and  several  handsome  residences.  It  is  a  place  of  much 
enterprize,  and  is  destined  to  become  a  large  town. 

BiTRLiNOTON  is  situatcd  on  the  east  side  of  Lake 
Cliamplain,  about  24  miles  sooth-east  of  Plattsburgh. 
This  is  one  of  those  beautiful  villages  which  so  often 
attract  the  notice  of  a  stranger  in  the  New-England 
states.  The  ground  rises  with  a  moderate  ascent  from 
the  lake,  and  presents  a  slope  covered  with  handsome 
houses  and  trees.  On  the  highest  part  of  the  eminence, 
which  is  330  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  stands  the 
University  of  Vermont.  This  summit  commands  a 
noble  view  of  the  lake  and  the  adjacent  country  for 
many  miles.  There  aro  here  about  350  houses  and 
stores,  a  bank,  court  house,  jail,  and  four  churches."* 
About  12  miles  from  Burlington,  in  the  town  of  Wills- 
borough,  (N.  Y. )  is  what  is  called  tho 


Split  Rock.  This  curiosity  is  a  part  of  a  rocky 
promontory  projecting  into  the  lake,  on  the  west  side, 
abottt  150  feet,  and  elevated  above  the  level  of  the  wa- 
ter about  12  feet.  The  part  broken  off  contains  about 
half  an  acre,  covered  with  trees,  and  is  separated  from 
the  main  rock  about  20  feet  The  opposite  sides  ex- 
actly fit  each  other — the  prominences  in  the  one  cor- 


♦  Travellers  designing  to  visit  Boston,  frequently 
take  a  stage  at  this  place,  on  a  route  which  is  noticed 
in  a  subsequent  part  of  this  work. 


'W 


CROWN  POINT — TICOMDEROGA. 


34! 


this,  is  the 
ins  several 
)lishment8 
e  of  much 
town. 

e  of  Lake 
attaburgh. 
h  so  often 
ir-England 
nccnt  from 
handsome 
eminence, 
stands  the 
mmands  a 
ountry  for 
>uses  and 
hurches.* 
of  Wills. 


*  a  rocky 
irest  side, 
the  wa- 
ns about 
ted  from 
sides  ex- 
one  cor- 


jquently 
noticed 


responding  with  the  cavities  in  the  other.  Through 
this  fissure  a  line  has  been  let  down  to  the  depth  of  500 
feet  without  finding  bottom. 

Crown  Point  is  situated  36  miles  from  Burlington, 
on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.  It  is  formed  by 
an  extensivti!  deep  bay  on  the  west,  skirted  by  a  steep 
mountain,  and  on  the  north  and  east  by  the  body  of 
the  lake.  The  elevated  plain  was  first  occuined  by  the 
French,  in  1731,  as  a  military  position,  and  abandoned 
by  them  in  1759,  when  Gf.iieral  Amherst  look  posses- 
sion  of  it,  and  built  Fort  Frederick.  The  ruins  of  this 
fort  may  still  be  traced,  being  situated  directly  opposite 
to  Chimney  Point  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay.  After 
the  peace  of  1763,  it  was  occupied  by  a  subaltern  and 
a  mere  safe-guard,  until  it  was  burnt  by  accident  some- 
time previous  to  the  American  revolution.  In  1775  it 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Americans,  and  was  after- 
wards evacuated  by  them,  on  the  advance  of  Burgoynu, 
in  1776.  A  few  years  since  a  number  of  British  guineas 
were  found  here,  from  the  accidental  crumbling  of  the 
earth  from  the  banks  where  they  had  been  deposited. 

TicoNDBROGA,  which  has  already  been  noticed,  {see 
p.  191,)  is  situated  15  miles  south  of  Crown  Point,  and 
24  miles  north  of  Whitehall. 

One  mile  from  Ticonderoga  is  Mount  Indepen- 
dence, on  the  east  side  of  the  lake ;  near  the  foci;  of 
which  the  remains  of  a  small  battery  are  still  to  be 
seen.  What  was  called  the  Horse-Shoe  battery  was 
on  an  elevation  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  the  rear. 

Nine  miles  farther,  the  lake  ia  contracted  into  four 


342 


WHITEHALL — CHAMPLAIN  CANAL. 


narrow  channels,  bounded  on  the  west  and  east  by  lof- 
ty mountains. 

South  and  East  Bats  are  soon  reached,  each  of 
about  five  miles  in  extent.  The  former  was  tak  jn  by 
Gen.  Dieskau  and  his  army,  in  their  route  towards 
Fort  Edward  in  1755.  From  the  latter  bay  to  White- 
hall, the  passage  is  extremely  narrow  and  of  a  serpen* 
tine  course,  and  cannot  be  pursued  in  safety  during  a 
dark  night. 

Whitehall,  terminates  the  steam-boat  navigation 
of  Lake  Champlain.  It  is  an  incorporated  village  sit« 
uated  on  the  west  bank  of  Wood  creek  at  its  entrance 
into  the  lake,  73  miles  north  of  Albany,  and  contains 
about  250  dwellings  and  stores,  and  2000  inhabitants. 
The  situation  of  this  place  is  low  and  unpleasant. 
It  derives  its  principal  consequence  from  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  lake,  which  is  passable  for  sloops  of  SO  tons 
burthen,  and  from  the  Champlain  canal,  which  here  en- 
ters the  lake.  Burgoyne  occupied  this  place  for  a  short 
time,  preparatory  to  his  march  to  Saratoga;  and  on  the 
heights,  over  the  harbor,  are  the  remains  of  a  battery 
and  block  housC" 

THE   CHAMPLAIN  CAITAL, 

Commencing  at  Whitehall,  proceeds  south  five  and  a 
half  miles,  when  it  enters  Wood  creek,  a  narrow  slug- 
gish stream,  averaging  15  feot  in  depth.  This  creek  is 
connected  with  the  canal,  and  is  rendered  navigable  for 


*  A  route  from  this  place  to  Boston  is  noticed  in  a 
subsequent  part  of  this  work. 


-•*' 


FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  TROT  AND  ALBANY. 


343 


east  by  lof- 

id,  each  of 
9  tabjn  by 
te  towards 
r  to  White- 
f  a  serpen- 
ty  during  a 

navigation 
village  sit- 
ts  entrance 
d  contains 
nhabitants. 
mpleasant. 
he  naviga> 

of  80  tons 
;h  here  en- 
for  a  short 
and  on  the 

a  battery 


five  and  a 
rrow  slug- 
is  creek  is 
igable  for 

iced  in  a 


boats,  for  about  C^  miles,  to  Fort  Ann  village.  From 
thence  the  canal  proceeds  through  Fort  Ann,  Kings- 
bury, and  Fort  Edward,  to  Fort  Miller  falls,  below 
which  the  canal  enters  the  river,  which  is  made  naviga* 
ble  3  miles  to  Saratoga  falls,  where  the  canal  is  taken 
out  of  the  river  on  the  west  side,  and  proceeds  through 
Saratoga,  Stillwater  and  Halfmoon,  to  Waterford,  where 
it  enters  the  Hudson,  and  by  a  branch  canal  enters  the 
Mohawk,  which  it  crosses  by  a  dam,  and  continuing 
I  of  a  mile,  joins  the  Erie  canal  in  the  town  of  Water- 
vleit.  The  whole  length  of  the  Champlain  canal  is  63 
miles.  The  cost  to  the  state,  exclusive  of  the  feeder 
from  Glen's  Falls,  was  $875,000. 

The  intervening  distances  on    the  canal  between 
Whitehall  and  Albany  are  as  follows : 


Miles. 

Fort  Ann, 12 

Sandy  Hill 8 

Fort  Edward, 2 

Fort  Miller  Falls, 8 

Saratoga  Falls, 3 

Schuylerville, 2 

Bemus'  Heights, 12 


MUea. 

Stillwater  V 3 

Mechanics  Ville, 3 

Waterford, 8 

Watervleit, 2 

Gibbon's  Ville, 2 

Albany, 6 


FAOM  WHITEHALL  TO  TROT  AND  ALBANT. 
BT  STAGE  AND  RAIL  ROAD. 

Stages  leave  Whitehall*  every  morning  on  the  ar- 
rival of  the  Champlain  steam-boats,  and  reach  Saratoga 
Springs  in  time  to  dine ;  from  whence  the  rail-road  is 


*  A  rail-road  is  now  constructing  from  this  place  to 
Saratoga  Springs,  which  will  render  the  travelling  by 
steam  continuous  from  Cluebec  to  the  southern  states. 

KB 


i. 


.Lf^iiduitK^'kii-V. 


344 


rORT  ANNE. 


taken  for  Troy  or  Albany  immediately  after  dinner^ 
The  whole  distance  to  the  former  place  is  70  miles — 
to  the  latter  7G,  and  the  intermediate  distances  as  foU 
low  : 


J)SiliS. 
By  stage. 
From  "Whitehall  to 

Fort  Ann, 11 

Sandy  Hill, 10 

FortViUe, 7 

Wilton 4 

Saratoga  Springs, .  > , .    7 


By  rail  road. 

♦Ballston  Spa, 7 

Balluton  Lake, 5 

Schenectady, lU 

Buel'sFarm, 12 

Albany, S 


The  route  is  in  a  southern  direction  near  the  line  of 
the  canal,  until  reaching  Fort  Ann  ;  half  a  mile  north 
of  which  place,  at  an  elbow  made  by  Wood  creek, 
leaving  barely  room  between  the  creek  and  a  precipi- 
tous bill  for  the  road,  a  severe  engagement  took  place 
in  1777,  between  a  detachment  of  Burgoyne's  troops 
and  a  party  of  Americans,  under  the  command  of  Col. 
Sterry,  who  were  on  their  retreat  from  Ticonderoga. 
The  Americans  were  on  the  plain  south  of  the  hill, 
which  served  as  a  cover  to  the  British.  Their  fire  on 
Sterry's  forces  below  was  destructive^  ainl  compelled 
him  to  abandon  his  position. 

The  village  of  Fort  Anne,  11  miles  from  Whitehall, 
contains  70  or  80  houses,  and  is  located  on  the  site  of 
the  old  fort  erected  during  the  French  war.  It  was  at 
the  north  part  of  the  village  on  the  bank  of  the  creek. 

Burgoyne's  road,  commencing  about  2  miles  south  of 


*  For  the  rail  road  route  to  Troy,  see  pages  161  to 
164. 


"^ 


■FORT  VILLB. 


345 


ier  dinner^ 
'0  miles — 
CCS  as  fol* 


Milts. 
oad. 

7 

5 

10 

12 

3 

he  lino  of 
milo  north 
ood  creek, 

a  precipi- 
took  place 
le's  troops 
ind  of  Col. 

onderoga. 
the  hill, 

eir  fire  on 
OQipellcd 

Vhitehall, 
le  site  of 
It  was  at 
e  creek, 
s  south  of 

es  161 1(^ 


tho  village,  and  pursuing  nearly  the  course  of  the  pres- 
ent road,  is  still  visible.  It  was  a  causeway,  fermcd 
by  logs  laid  transversely,  a  labor  which  became  neces- 
sary in  conveying  his  cannon  and  baggage  waggons  to 
Saratoga. 

Sandt  Hill,  10  miles  farther.    {Seep.  181.) 

Fort  Villg,  a  small  village  in  the  town  of  Moreau, 
is  7  miles  farther.  About  half  a  mile  west  of  the  vi!  • 
lagc,  there  is  a  large  Spring,  which  ebbs  and  flows  reg- 
ularly with  the  tide.  It  rises  through  a  body  of  beauti- 
ful fine  sand,  containing  yellow  pa:  .icles  of  a  metalio 
substance,  and  has  been  found  to  answer  every  purposo 
of  the  purest  emery.  It  partakes,  also,  so  much  of  the 
character  of  quick  sand,  that  every  weighty  substance 
placed  in  the  spring,  even  the  longest  sticks  of  timber^ 
are  soon  drawn  beneath  the  surface.  Falling,  or  even 
stepping  into  the  fountain,  therefore,  is  considered  ex- 
tremely dangerons.  At  low  water,  the  surface  is  near- 
ly dry ;  but  at  high  tide,  the  water  is  seen  boiling  up  at 
several  points,  covering  an  area  of  near  a  quarter  of  an 
acre. 

About  a  mile  south  of  Fort  Villc,  the  stage  passes 
over  an  eminence,  which  alTords  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
Oreen  Mountains  of  Vermont  at^the  east  and  ihe  inter- 
mediate country ;  three  miles  from  which  is  Wilton 
church  ;  from  whence  to  Saratoga  Springs  is  7  miles 
{For  a  description  of  the  latter  place,  together  loith  thi 
routes  by  rail  road  to  Troy  and  dlbany^  see  pages  148  to 
J  76. 


'/ 


346 


FROM  ALBANY  TO  BOSTON. 


ROUTES  TO  BOSTON. 


These  are  so  various,  that  the  traveller  may  always 
be  governed  by  his  own  taste  and  judgment  in  a  selec- 
tion. The  route  from  Albany  has  been  chosen  by  ma- 
ny on  account  of  enjoying  in  the  excursion  a  visit  to  the 
Lebanon  Springs  ;  while  others  have  preferred  a  course 
which  should  embrace  the  rich  mountain  scenery  of 
Vermont  and  I^sw-Hampshire ;  commencing  their  ex- 
cursions either  at  Saratoga  Springs,  Whitehall  or  Bur- 
lington. We  therefore  subjoin  a  description  of  the 
different  routes. 

FROM  ALBANY  TO  BOSTON. 

From  Albany,  stages  leave  daily  for  Boston,  which 
is  distant  164  miles,  and  the  route  is  performed  in  two 
days.  One  line  passes  through  Bennington  and  Brat- 
tbborough,  Vt.,  but  the  most  usual  route  is  through 
New-Lebanon,  Pittsfield,  Northampton  and  Brookfield 
to  Worcester,  from  whence  a  rail  road  is  taken  for  the 
residue  of  the  excursion. 

The  distances  on  the  last  mentioned  route  are  as  fol- 
low; 


Miles, 
By  sta^"., 

Schodack, 5 

Nassau, 12 

New-Lebanon, 8 

Pittsfield, 9 

Dalston, 8 

Peru, 7 

Worthington, 8 

Chesterfield, 0 

Northampton,  ........  1 3  | 


MUes. 

Hadley, 2 

Belchertc'.vn, 10 

Ware, 9 

Brookfield, •     8 

Spencer,, 7 

Leicester, 5 

Worcester, 6 

By  rail  road. 
Boston, 43 


ay  always 
in  a  selec- 
3n  by  ma- 
visit  to  the 
id  a  course 
scenery  of 
g  their  ex- 
all  or  Bur- 
on  of  the 


ton,  which 
led  in  two 
land  Brat- 
through 
Brookfield 
en  for  the 

ire  as  fol- 


Miles, 
..  2 
..  10 


9 

8 
7 
5 
6 

.43 


NEW-LEBANON. 

Albany,  (sflap.  144.) 


547 


New-Lebanon,  ia  a  pleasant  village  in  the  town  of 
Canaan,  N.  Y.  bordering  on  Pittsfield,  Mass.  and  is  25 
miles  from  Albany.  It  contains  a  mineral  spring  of 
considerable  importance,  which  is  much  frequented  in 
the  summer  months  by  invalids.  It  is  principally  used 
for  the  purpose  of  bathing ;  but  is  much  inferior  to  the 
Saratoga  waters  either  as  a  medicine  or  beverage. 
The  fountain  issues  from  the  side  of  a  high  hill,  in  great 
abundance,  discharging  at  the  rate  of  18  barrels  per 
minute ;  and  is  used  as  a  feeder  for  several  mills.  The 
water  is  remarkably  pure  and  soft,  and  is  perfectly 
tasteless  and  inodorous.  Gas,  in  considerable  quanti- 
fies, escapes  from  the  pebbles  and  sand,  and  keeps  the 
water  in  constant  motion.  It  contains  small  quantities 
of  muriate  of  lime,  muriate  of  soda^  sulphate  of  lime, 
and  earboaatc  of  lime ;  and  its  temperature  is  73  de* 
grees  of  Fahrenheit. 

Convenient  bathing  houses  are  kept  in  readiness  at 
all  times  for  the  accommodation  of  strangers ;  and 
there  are  a  r  umber  of  boarding  establishments  which, 
at  different  rates,  afford  proportionate  fare.  Among 
these,  the  Navarino  Hotel  is  a  spacious  and  well  fur- 
nished establishment,  calculated  to  accommodate  from 
100  to  150  guests. 

Near  the  spring  is  what  is  called  the  Shakers'  Village, 
containing  a  number  of  neat  plain  buildings,  generally 
painted  yellow.  The  property  of  this  society  is  held  in 
common  ;  and  th2y  are  said  to  possess  nearly  3000 
acres  of  fertile  land.  Besides  agricultural  pursuits,  they 
(Carry  on  several  branches  of  manufactures,  which  ar« 

ee2 


348 


PITTSFIELD. 


distinguished  by  excellence  of  workmanship.  The  sin- 
gular regulations  and  ceremonies  of  these  people,  con- 
stitute an  object  of  attention  to  tourists.  Nine  miles 
from  New-Lebanon  is  the  village  of 

PiTTSFiELD,  rendered  elegant  from  its  local  situation, 
and  from  the  neatness  of  its  buildings.  The  village 
contains  from  150  to  200  houses,  a  bank,  a  medical  col- 
lege containing  one  of  the  best  anatomical  museums  in 
the  U,  States,  an  academy,  2  printing  offices  and  seve- 
ral stores.  Here  are  annually  held  the  cattle  show  and 
fair  of  the  celebrated  Berkshire  Agricultural  Society, 
which  has  been  incorporated  by  act  of  the  legislature ; 
and  which  has  done  more  towards  improving  the  con- 
dition of  agriculture  than  any  other  institution  of  the 
kind  in  the  Union.  The  show  and  fair,  which  occupy 
two  days,  never  fail  to  impart  an  unusual  degree  of  in- 
terest, and  are  always  attended  by  immenso  crowds  of 
citizens.* 


*  About  24  miles  north  of  Pittsfield,  in  the  town  of 
Adams,  there  is  a  J^atural  Bridge,  but  little  inferior  to 
the  celebrated  Natural  Bridge  in  Virgiriia.  The  exca- 
vation or  gutter  is  in  solid  lime  rock,  40  rods  in  length, 
varying  from  50  to  60  feet  in  height,  through  which 
runs  Hudson  »  Brook  or  the  north  branch  of  the  Hoo- 
Bic,  occupying  from  13  to  14  feet,  which  is  the  uninter- 
rupted width  of  the  cup.  Over  this  the  bridge  is 
thrown,  being  62  feet  from  the  bed  of  the  brook,  15 
feet  long,  10  wide,  arched  beneath,  and  what  renders  it 
a  matter  of  greater  curiosity,  the  arch  is  perfectly 
smooth,  and  beautifully  white.  On  the  west  side  of 
the  arch  is  a  circular  cut  room,  large  enough  to  contain 
ten  persons.  The  whole  place  bears  the  marks  of  be- 
ing wrought  by  the  irrigation  of  the  waters  in  a  most 


-.,.  ..,,^^,,.^.^-..„,  ^„,^^, 


The  ain- 
•ple,  Con- 
ine miles 


situation, 
le  village 
dical  col- 
seuins  in 
ind  seve- 
jhow  and 

Society, 
;islature ; 

the  con- 
on  of  the 
I  occupy 
ee  of  in- 
rowds  of 


town  of 
ferior  to 
he  exca- 
1  length, 

which 
le  Hoo- 
uninter- 
ridge  is 
ook,  15 
nders  it 
terfectly 

side  of 
contain 
9  of  be- 
a  most 


NORTHAMPTON. 


349 


Northampton  is  43  miles  from  Pittsfield,  and  is  one 
of  the  finest  towns  in  New-England.  It  is  situated  a 
mile  and  a  half  west  of  Connecticut  river,  and  was  set- 
tled as  early  as  the  year  1654.  It  contains  two  acade- 
mies, several  churches,  a  bank,  2  printing-offices,  a  court 
house,  jail,  and  350  dwellings,  some  of  which  are  very 
elegant.  The  Congregational  church  is  considered 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  structures  of  the  kind  in  the 
state.  There  are  several  manufactories  here;  and  the 
place  exhibits  an  unusual  degree  of  enterprize  and 
wealth.  The  Farmington  and  Hampshire  canal  com- 
mences at  this  place,  and  extends  to  New-Haven,  Conn. 
87  miles.  Over  the  Connecticut  river,  there  is  a  sub- 
stantial bridge,  1080  feet  long,  resting  on  six  stone  piers. 

Mount  Holtoke,  in  the  vicinity  of  Northampton,  is 
much  frequented  by  tourists.    It  is  situated  on  the  east 

workmanlike  manner.  For  ages  this  cause  must  have 
operated  in  producing  the  result.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  bridge  the  rocks  are  somewhat  open ;  up- 
on examining  which,  they  are  found  leading  to  large 
caverns,  worked  out  by  the  constant  friction  of  the  water. 
The  roar  of  water  and  the  sublimity  of  the  scenery, 
produce  an  indescribable  sensation  upon  the  visitor, 
Wii.oh  induces  him  to  retreat,  being  warned  that  he 
stands  on  slippery  places.  There  are  many  traditions 
respecting  the  precipice — one  is,  thiit  a  war  party  of 
Indians,  on  an  expedition  to  Brookfield,  in  one  of  the 
early  Indian  wars,  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks 
below.  Some  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago,  a  Mr. 
Briggs,  then  a  student  in  Williams'  college,  visited  the 
place  unaccompanied.  Curiosity  tempted  him  to  ex- 
plore more  fully  the  precipice,  and,  by  the  assistance 
of  poles,  he  descended  to  the  base  of  it.    Here  his  eyes 


350 


MOUNT  BOLTOEE — HADLEY. 


side  of  the  river  opposite  to  Northampton.  The  height 
of  this  mountain  above  the  level  of  the  river  is  1070 
feet.  In  consequence  of  the  resort  to  this  place,  which 
has  not  been  less  than  from  two  to  five  thousand  annu- 
ally, two  buildings  have  been  erected  on  its  summit 
'.br  tha  purpose  of  accommodating  visitors  with  re- 
freshments. The  beautiful  and  extensive  prospect  af- 
forded from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  will  amply  com- 
pensate the  labor  and  difficulty  of  the  ascent.  The 
view  embraces  eminences  160  miles  apart,  with  several 
beautiful  villages  and  a  rich  and  fertile  country  interven- 
ing, and  is  said  to  be  unrivalled  in  the  eab'.ern  states. 

Hadlet,  2  miles  from  Northampton,  is  one  of  the 
oldest  towns  in  the  state.  It  was  the  head  quarters  of 
the  army  employed  for  the  defence  of  the  towns  on  the 


feasted  upon  the  wonders  of  nature.  His  curiosity  be- 
ing gratified,  he  began  to  think  of  returning.  Alter  re- 
peated trials  he  gave  it  up,  and  inscribed  on  the  rock 
his  farewell  to  his  friends  and  the  world.  Hi?  voice 
could  not  reach  the  habitation  (  f  man,  and  the  rocks 
were,  to  all  appearance,  to  be  his  grave.  He,  however, 
began  to  repeat  the  notching  in  the  side,  which  was  mar- 
ble, and  after  a  painful  labor  of  several  hours,  he  effect- 
ed his  escape.  But  the  exertion  proved  too  much ; 
it  undermined  his  health,  and  in  a  few  months  he  was 
conveyed  to  his  grave.  Thi3  place  was  discovered  by 
a  Mr.  Hudson,  while  travelling  the  wildenxss,  a  few 
years  before  the  French  war.  He  came  to  it  in  the 
night,  where  he  remained,  and  heard  tho  roaring  of  the 
mighty  torrent  beneath  him.  The  next  morning  he  per- 
ceived that  had  he  advanced  a  few  steps  more  he  would 
have  been  plunged  into  eternity.  From  this  circum- 
stance,  the  brook  and  the  falls  bear  his  name. 


:*fel.iiK» 


HADLET. 


351 


le  height 
is  1070 
e,  which 
id  annu- 
summit 
with  re- 
spect af- 
ply  com- 
it.  The 
\i  several 
interven- 
states. 

e  of  the 
arters  of 
tB  on  the 


isity  be- 
\.tler  re- 
he  rock 
is  voice 
le  rocks 
owever, 
as  mar- 
e  effect- 
much  ; 
he  was 
red  by 
,  a  few 
in  the 
I  of  the 
he  pcr- 
would 
nrcum- 


Connecticut  river,  in  the  war  with  Philip  in  1675 — 6  ; 
a.nd  was,  for  a  long  time,  the  place  of  residence  of  the 
two  regicides  or  judges,  Whalley  and  Goffe,in  the  time 
of  Charles  the  second.  On  the  town  beingattacked  by 
the  f  nciians  during  this  war,  a  stranger,  venerable  in 
appearance,  and  differing  in  his  apparel  from  the  rest 
of  the  inhabitants,  suddenly  presented  himself  at  the 
head  of  the  colonial  troops,  and  encouraged  them  by 
his  advice  and  example  to  perseverance  in  defending  the 
place.  To  his  experience  in  military  tactics  and  cour- 
age, in  a  great  measure,  was  a  defeat  of  the  Indians  at- 
tributable. When  they  retreated,  the  stranger  disap- 
peared ;  and  in  those  times  of  superstition  it  was  verily 
believed  by  many  that  he  was  the  guardian  angel  of  the 
place.  But  he  was  no  other  than  Col.  Goffe,  who  see- 
ing the  village  in  danger,  left  his  concealment  to  unite 
with  its  inhabitants  in  a  vigorous  defence. 

In  connection  with  the  history  of  this  place,  the  fol- 
lowing biographical  sketch  of  Goffe,  Whalley  and  Dix- 
well  will  prove  interesting : 

On  the  restoration  of  the  English  monarch,  Charles 
2d,  in  1660,  several  of  the  judges  who  sat  on  the  trial  of 
Charles  1st,  were  seized,  condemned  and  executed. 
Others,  foreseeing  the  result,  escaped.  Whalley  and 
Goffe,  two  of  the  number,  came  to  Boston ;  where,  for 
a  time,  they  received  the  hospitality  <?m3  to  their  rank. 
But  on  learning  that  several  of  the  regicides  had  l»cen 
executed,  and  that  Whalley  and  Goffe  had  not  been 
included  in  the  act  of  pardon,  the  people  who  had  har- 
bored them  began  to  be  alarmed;  and  the  two  judges 
abruptly  departed  for  Connecticut.  Subsequently,  the 
King's  proclamation  was  received,  requirirg  their  ap- 


li«,ii*i;:i«i;:iiiU, 


'■"Mi 


M 


■ill! 


352 


HADLET. 


prehension.  They,  however,  eluded  the  vig^ii  'riee  of 
their  pursuers,  bjif  secreting  themselves  in  a  cave  r.nd 
other  secret  places  at  New  Haven,  where  they  continu- 
ed, between  three  nnd  four  years,  until  .heir  n  treat  was 
discovered  by  the  liidiaos.  1  aiding  that  they  could 
no  longer  remain  at  New-Haven  in  safety,  and  that  i?. 
vigilant  search  for  them  was  st;!!  continued,  they  re- 
solved to  remove  into  a  more  secluded  pat  of  the  coun- 
try, A  fy-iend  had  succeeded  in  inducing  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Ras  'll,  of  Badley,  to  receive  them;  and  after  a  toil- 
jsome  jovirncij  hy  night,  they  reached  his  house  in  Octo- 
ber, i  36  i  In  a  chamber  of  this  house,  (which  was  sit- 
malrt  on  ihe  east  side,  and  near  the  centre  of  the  present 
main  street,)  having  a  secret  passage  to  the  cellar,  they 
remained  undiscovered  for  fifteen  or  sixteen  years. 
During  this  period,  Goffe  held  a  correspondence  with 
his  wife  in  England,  under  an  assumed  name  ;  and  in 
a  letter  of  April,  1679,  it  i?  stated  that  Whalley  had  di- 
ed some  time  previous,  at  Mr.  Russell's.  His  bones 
were  discovered  not  many  years  since  in  a  sort  of  tomb 
■adjoining  the  cellar  wall  of  Mr.  Russell's  house. 

Not  long  after  Goffe  and  Whalley  arrived  at  Hadley, 
they  were  joined  by  Col.  John  Dixwell,  another  of  the 
judges.  After  remaining  some  time,  he  went  to  Now- 
Haven,  assumed  the  name  of  Davids,  was  married,  had 
fieveral  children,  and  his  real  name  was  not  known  un- 
til his  death  in  16S9.  He  was  buried  in  the  church- 
yard at  that  place ;  where  a  coarse  stone  s  U  marks 
the  spot  of  his  interment,  with  this  inscripti'  "  J.  D. 
Esq.  deceased,  March  18,  in  the  82d  year  c 
1688-9." 


age-* 


'W 


BaOOKFIELD. 


353 


V!{^J 


(ce  of 
ft  cave  r.nd 
icy  continu- 
•  Tt  treat  was 
t  they  could 
,  and  that  v. 
ed,  they  re- 
of  tbecoui> 
ho  Rev.  Mr. 
after  a  toil- 
use  in  Octo- 
lich  was  sit- 
f  the  present 
0  cellar,  they 
ixcen  years, 
ndence  with 
me ;  and  in 
alley  had  di- 
His  bones 
sort  of  tomb 
lOUse. 
at  Hadley, 
lother  of  tho 
int  to  Now- 
arried,  had 
known  un- 
Ithe  church- 
fe  iU  marks 

age- 


After  the  death  of  Whalley,  GofTo  travelled  to  the 
south,  and  no  certain  information  relative  to  his  fate  has 
ever  been  obtained. 

From  Hadley  to  Bclchertown,  a  pleasant  village,, 
is  10  miles,  and  from  thence  to 

Ware  Factory  Village,  is  9  miles  farther.  This 
place,  located  on  the  Ware  River,  has  attained  to  an 
astonishing  growth  within  five  or  six  years.  There  arc 
few  places  in  the  country  exhibiting  so  barren  and  rug- 
ged a  soil  as  the  site  and  lands  adjacent  to  this  flour- 
ishing little  city  in  miniature.  As  you  approach  from 
the  west  or  east,  it  bursts  upon  the  view  with  its  long 
range  of  manufactories,  its  neat  white  bouses,  and 
glittering  spires,  producing  the  same  sensation  in  the 
bosom,  as  the  prospect  of  a  beautiful  garden  in  the 
midst  of  a  desert.  It  contains  several  public  buildings 
which  would  be  an  ornament  to  our  most  flourishing 
inland  towns  of  more  ancient  date. 

Brookfibld,  8  miles  from  Ware,  is  a  handsome  town, 
though  very  little  improved  by  any  recent  additions  of 
buildings.  This  place  was  burnt  by  the  Indians  in 
1675.  On  the  first  alarm,  the  inhabitants,  in  all  about 
70,  repaired  to  a  house  slightly  fortified  externally  with 
logs,  and  internally  lined  with  feather  beds,  to  check 
the  force  of  mi  ketiy.  Tbij  spot  was  soon  surround- 
ed by  the  er  r/sy,  and  a  ccrstant  fire  poured  upon  it  in 
alldirecti^  .>.  But  the  well  directed  ^hola  of  the  be- 
sieged kept  the  Indians  at  a  considerable  distance. 
Various  devices  were  used  by  the  latter  for  burning  the 
budding;  but  tt/^ir  plana  were  thwarted  by  the  whites, 


354 


WORCESTER. 


aided  by  a  plentiful  shower  of  rain.  The  attack  con- 
tinued for  three  days ;  when  the  appearanee  of  a  body 
of  troops  from  Lancaster  induced  the  Indians  to  seek 
their  own  safety  in  a  precipitate  retreat.  All  the  build* 
ings  in  the  village  except  the  one  fortified,  were  de- 
stroyed. Only  one  of  the  inhabitants,  however,  was 
killed ;  while  the  loss  of  the  Indians  was  80. 

Leicester,  1 2  miles.  The  village  contains  an  acad- 
emy, 3  churches  and  about  80  dwellings.  The  princi- 
pal employment  of  the  inhabitants  is  the  manufacture 
of  cotton  and  woollen  cards  j  of  which  a  very  large 
amount  is  annually  made. 

Worcester,  (6  miles,)  s  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
important  towns  in  the  state.  It  contains  from  four  to 
five  hundred  houses,  generally  well  built,  a  bank,  four 
printing  offices,  a  court  house,  jail,  and  several  public 
buildings.  A  newspaper  which  was  commenced  by 
Isaiah  Thomas  some  time  previous  to  the  revolutionary 
war,  is  still  published  here,  and  is  one  of  the  oldest  pa- 
pers in  the  Union.  Mr.  Thomas  was  the  author  of  an 
elaborate  history  of  the  art  of  printing,  and  continued  to 
reside  here  until  his  decease,  a  few  years  since.  He 
erected  in  the  village,  vX  a  very  considerable  expense,  a 
handsome  building,  fcr  the  reception  of  the  library  and 
cabinet  of  the  American  Antiquarian  Society,  of  which 
he  was  president.  The  library  consists  of  about  6000 
volumes,  many  of  them  of  great  antiquity,  and  the 
cabinet  is  also  very  valuable. 

The  Blackstone  Canal  commences  at  this  place, 
and  extends  to  Pvovidence,  R.  I.  Length,  45  nv '':■'} — 
expense  rising  oi'  $500,000. 


ick  con- 
f  a  body 
to  seek 
le  build- 
vere  de- 
ver,  was 

an  acad- 
le  princi- 
mfacture 
jry  large 

ind  most 

n  four  to 

ink,  four 

al  public 

meed  by 

utionary 

West  pa- 

of  of  an 

inued  to 

ce.    He 

cpense,  a 

|rary  and 

)f  which 

mt  6000 

land  the 

lis  place, 

It."'-  f — 


''W^ 


BOSTON  AND  WORCESTER  RAIL  ROAD. 


355 


1  he  Boston  and  Worcester  Rail  Road  was  com- 
menced in  1832,  and  completed  in  1835.  Leaving 
Worcester,  it  crosses  the  Black  stone  river,  through  the 
valley  of  which  it  passes  for  some  distance,  until  strik- 
ing a  ridge  of  slate  rock,  the  cut  through  which  is  37 
feet  deep  for  a  distance  of  1500  feet ;  thence  descend- 
ing at  the  rate  of  30  feet  to  the  mile  over  a  rough  coun- 
try, it  enters  the  valley  of  Long  Pond,  which  is  passed 
on  a  high  embankment,  until  reaching  Cutler's  Peak  ; 
from  whence  the  valley  of  Elizabeth  river  is  pursued  to 
the  town  of  Westborough ;  where,  passing  the  West- 
borough  Swamp,  the  head  of  the  Concord  river,  the 
valley  of  the  latter  stream  is  taken  until  reaching  the 
direction  of  Natic  Pond,  the  south  end  of  which  is 
doubled  by  a  strong  curve.  Ascending  at  the  rate  of 
30  feet  to  the  mile,  the  line  soon  enters  Nat' .,  which  it 
leaves  by  a  rock  excavation  of  20  feet,  and  passes  the 
south  end  of  Morse's  Pond  on  an  embankment  47  feet 
high  and  700  feet  long.  Following  for  some  distance 
a  parallel  line  with  the  central  turnpike,  the  road  crosses 
the  Worcester  turnpike  and  reaches  a  pond  half  a  unlo 
long,  the  waters  of  which  were  originally  7  feet  above 
the  grade  line.  From  thence  there  is  an  excavation 
through  granite  31  feet  deep  and  500  feet  long.  Passing 
the  town  of  Needham,  there  is  a  succession  of  heavy 
embankments  and  excavations;  until  reaching  Charles 
river,  which  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  120  feet  long,  com- 
posed of  a  ring!?  span.  Proceeding  down  the  valley  of 
the  river,  the  line  passes  Newton  in  ,^oing  two  miles,  an4 
reaches  Boston  in  ;  ing  8  miles  larther — terminating 
not  far  from  th?  icoi  ^f  the  common. 


■<P** 


356 


FROM  SARATOGA  SPRINGS    TO  DOSTON. 


Worcester  '^  4  ••>  v  el  abovo  Boston,  but  the  greatest 
descent  ir  nny  mi  piaco  la  30  feotto  the  mile,  and  the 
average  descent  about  lOj^  feet.  The  cittire  length  of 
the  road  is  43^  miles,  and  the  time  employed  in  passing 
from  one  place  to  the  other  by  steam,  is  from  2^  to  'i 
hours. 

Boston.     {See  subsequent  pages. ) 

FROM  SARATOGA  SFRmGS  TO  BOSTON. 

161  miles.    Intervening  distances  as  follow : 


Miles. 

Schuylerville, 12 

Union  Village, 5 

Cambridge, 8 

Arlington, 12 

Manchester, 12 

Landgrove,.. 15 

Chester 15 

Bellows  Falls, 14 

Walpole  Village 4 

Walpole, 4 

ICeene, 14 

M  arlborough, 5 


Miles. 

Jeffrey, 5 

New  Ipswich, 10 

Townsend, 12 

Pepperel, 6 

Groton, 3 

Littleton, 8 

Acton, 3 

Concord, 7 

Lexington, 7 

Cambridge,. 7 

Boston, 3 


A  stage  leaves  Saratoga  Springs  every  morning 
(Sundays  excepted)  at  5  o'clock,  reaching  Manchester 
the  first  day,  Keene  the  second,  and  Boston  the  third, 
to  dine.    Fare  $7,50. 

ScHUTLERviLLE,  12  .  s.  {See  p.  179.)  Passing 
across  the  vale  where  the  surrt  ider  of  Burgoyne  took 
place  to  the  river,  (on  the  bank  of  which  in  a  field  ad- 
joining the  roaa  on  the  north,  are  seen  the  remains  of 
an  intrenchment,)  the  stage  crosses  it  in  a  horse-boat. 


i 


MANCHESTER — CHESTER. 


357 


greatest 

and  the 

ength  of 

1  passing 

n  2i  to  3 


r. 

to; 

Miles. 

5 

10 

12 

6 

3 

8 

3 

...  7 

...  7 

...  7 

•  .  .  *  •  w 


morning 
nchester 
he  third. 


Passing 
ne  took 
field  ad- 
nains  of 
e-boat. 


i 


Union  Village,  5  miles.  The  Battenkill  river  passes 
through  the  village,  on  the  banks  of  which  are  several 
mills  and  factories.  There  are  about  200  houses  in  the 
place  ;  and  the  number  is  constantly  augmenting, 

Cambridgr  and  Arlington  arc  good  agricuhural 
townships.  In  the  latter  place,  the  route,  for  a  consid- 
erable distance  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Battenkill,  near 
^hich  are  several  valuable  and  extensive  quarries  of 
white  marble. 

Manchester,  12  miles  from  Arlington,  is  a  neatvil- 
lap'e,  located  near  the  foot  ot  the  Green  Mountains, 
which  are  seen  stretching  to  the  south  and  north  as  tar 
PS  the  eye  can  extend.  Leaving  the  village,  the  stage 
8oon  commences  ascending  the  great  natural  barrier 
which  separates  the  eastern  and  western  sections  of 
\  mont.  No  exertions  have  been  spared  to  improve 
the  ro».d ;  and  it  may  be  considered  by  far  the  best  of 
any  \\\ic\i  crosses  the  mountain .  The  ascent,  which  is 
not  precipitous,  continues,  with  occasional  descents,  for 
10  or  12  mil(  3  before  the  summit  is  reached.  During 
the  first  six  miles,  a  most  extensive  and  variegated 
prospect  at  the  west  is  enjoyed ;  and  after  attaining  the 
greatest  elevation,  this  is  suddenly  exchanged  for  a 
prospect  nearly  co-extensive  at  the  east. 

Chester,  30  miles  from  Manchester,  is  a  pleasant 
village,  situated  on  a  handsome  plain,  and  contains  two 
churches,  an  excellent  academy,  and  about  60  dweUings 
and  stores. 

Bii^LLows  Falls,  14  miles,  lies  on  the  western  bank 
of  the  Connecticut  river.    The  village  is  flourishing, 


'i&i: 


■■•.Wj.  rJ.-;  ..  . .  :'^.-,\  ,iJiii,Si.-^ 


358 


BILLOWS   FALLS. 


contains  some  very  pleasant  houses,  a  number  of  man* 
ufacturing  establishments,  and  a  beautiful  church,  which 
stands  on  an  eminence,  and  is  seen  for  some  miles 
distant 

A  canal,  having  9  locks  and  affording  water  for  a 
number  of  mills,  has  been  constructed  around  the  falls. 
It  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length.  The  whole  descent  of 
the  river  for  this  distance  is  fitly  fuet,  and  assumes  tho 
appearance  of  rapids  rather  than  a  cataract.  Over  the 
greatest  descent,  where  the  water  is  compressed  bj 
ledges  of  rocks  to  a  very  narrow  space,  a  handsome 
toll  bridge  is  erected,  fifty  feet  in  height,  from  which 
the  water  is  seen  rushing  through  the  pass  with  great 
rapidity,  and  dashing  upon  the  rocks  in  the  wildest  dis- 
order — presenting  a  scene  truly  sublime  and  inter- 
esting. 

A  short  distance  below  the  falls  are  two  rocks  con- 
taining specimens  of  Indan  workmanship.  On  one  of 
the  rocks  are  the  indistinct  traces  of  a  number  of  hu- 
man faces,  represented  by  marks  in  the  stone,  and 
probably  intended  as  a  memorial  of  their  deceased 
friends  or  chietltains.  That  this  place  was  once  the 
haunt  of  our  savage  predecessors,  is  evident  from  the 
arrow  points  and  bits  of  their  earthen  pots  and  frag- 
ments of  other  utensils  which  may  be  found  in  a  short 
walk  over  the  adjacent  fields.  * 

*  From  Bellows  Falls,  stages  can  be  taken  every  day 
for  Concord,  N.  H.  and  for  Hartford,  Conn.  On  the 
latter  route,  the  course  is  generally  near  the  bank  of 
the  Connecticut  river,  and  through  a  most  delightful 
country,  interspersed  with  several  elegant  villages  and 
country  seats. 


iii&; 


WALPOLE— KEENE—GROTON—CONCORD.         359 

On  the  Now-Hampahiro  aide  is  a  chain  of  lofty 
mountains,  which  leave  but  a  narrow  passage  between 
their  base  and  the  river.  Around  one  of  these  impend- 
ing barriers  the  road  winds  its  course  to  the  pleasant 
village  of 

Walpole,  which  contains  about  100  houses,  includ- 
ing some  very  handsome  mansions.  This  place  was 
the  scene  of  many  savage  incursions  during  the  French 
war.  It  was  once  in  the  entire  possession  of  the  Indi- 
ans, and  retaken  from  them  by  Col.  Bellows,  who  made 
the  tirst  settlement  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The 
scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  remarkably  striking  and  ro- 
mantic.   Ten  miles  farther  is  the  flourishing  village  of 

Keene.  This  is  one  of  the  handsomest  villages  in 
New-England,  and  is  situated  a  few  miles  east  of  the 
Connecticut  river.  It  contains  about  300  dwellings,  a 
bank,  a  court  house  and  jail,  3  churches,  and  a  popula- 
tion of  about  3000.  For  a  distance  of  40  miles  from 
this  place,  no  village  of  importance  inte^-venes,  though 
many  handsome  dweUings  and  ricn  farms  are  discov- 
ered on  the  route. 

Groton,  41  miles  from  Keene,  is  a  pleasant  village, 
containing  about  100  houses  and  an  academy  ;  seven 
miles  from  which  is  the  town  of 

Concord,  rendered  memorable  as  the  place  where 
the  first  efficient  opposition  was  made  to  the  British 
troops,  in  1775.    It  is  a  large  town,  and  contains  many 

ff2 


m.. 


360 


I.BXINGTON. 


handsome  dwellings.    Eight  miles  from  which  is  the 
town  of 

Lexingtok,  containing  a  few  plain  houses ;  but  cel- 
ebrated in  history  as  the  spot  where  the  first  American 
blood  was  shed  in  the  strugj^le  for  independence.  This 
occurred  on  the  19th  of  April,  1775.  A  quantity  of  mil- 
itary stores  had  been  collected  at  Concord,  which  the 
British  General  Gage  proposed  to  destroy.  Though 
secret  in  his  operations,  and  though  precaution  had 
been  taken  the  evening  previous  to  scour  the  roads  and 
secure  such  citizens  as  the  British  officers  fell  in  with, 
yet  the  plan  was  discovered  by  Doctor  Warren,  of  Bos- 
ton, who  sent  out  messengers  to  alarm  the  inhabitants 
and  prepare  them  for  resistance.  On  the  arrival  the 
next  morning  at  Lexington  of  the  British  troops,  S  or 
900  strong,  it  was  found  that  the  militia  of  the  town,  to 
the  number  of  70,  were  in  arms.  Major  Pitcairn,  who 
led  the  British  van,  ordered  the  "  rebels"  to  disperse. 
Some  scattering  guns  were  fired,  which  were  followed 
by  a  general  discharge,  and  continued  till  the  militia 
disappeared.  Eight  men  were  killed  and  several 
wounded.* 

The  detachment  then  proceeded  to  Concord,  a  part 
of  which  took  possession  of  two  bridges  beyond  the 
town,  while  the  remainder  destroyed  the  military  stores. 
A  number  of  militia,  who  had  collected  in  the  vicinity, 
but  with  orders  not  to  give  the  first  fire,  attempted  to 


*  A  handsome  monument  now  marks  the  spot  where 
this  action  was  fought,  beneath  which  are  interred  the 
remains  of  the  Americans  who  were  slain. 


# 


■ '  'J '  •;:^vm:^'  '■'"  ■■  "'.'„'' uii  :^:it''- 


CAMBRIDGE. 


361 


hich  is  the 


ea ;  but  cel- 
3t  American 
ience.  This 
intityofmil- 
1,  which  the 
y.    Though 
zaution  had 
le  roads  and 
fell  in  with, 
rren,  of  Bos- 
!  inhabitants 
3  arrival  the 
troops,  S  or 
the  town,  to 
'itcaim,  who 
to  disperse, 
jre  followed 
I  the  militia 
md   several 

cord,  a  part 
beyond  the 
itary  stores, 
he  vicinity, 
tempted  to 


|spot  where 
iterred  the 


pass  one  of  the  bridges  in  the  character  of  travellers. 
They  were  fired  on,  and  two  men  killed.  The  fire  was 
returned  and  a  skirmish  ensued,  which  resulted  in  the 
discomfiture  of  the  regulars,  and  a  precipitate  retreat. 
Skirmishing  continued  during  the  day,  and  though  the 
British  received  reinforcements,  they  were  harrassed  in 
their  retreat  to  Bunker's  Hill,  where  thev  remained  se- 
cure under  the  protection  of  their  ships  of  war. 

The  loss  of  the  British,  during  this  day,  in  killed, 
wounded  and  prisoners,  was  273  j  while  that  of  the 
provinciaUsts  did  not  exceed  90. 

The  blow  thus  struck  was  the  precursor  of  more  im- 
portant events,  and  was  soon  followed  by  the  battle  of 
Breed's  or  (as  it  is  generally  denominated)  Bunker's 
Hill ;  which  is  noticed  in  subsequent  pages. 

Cambridge  is  situated  7  miles  from  Lexington.  It 
is  a  large  and  handsome  town,  but  derives  its  impor- 
tance from  Harvard  Universty)  which  is  located  here, 
and  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  celebrated  literary  in- 
etitutions  in  the  United  States.  It  takes  its  name  from 
the  Rev.  John  Harvard,  who  died  in  1638,  leaving  to 
the  institution  a  legacy  of  779Z.  ]7».  2d.  sterling.  The 
edifices  belonging  to  the  University  are  Harvard,  Mas- 
sachusetts, Hollis,  Stoughton,  Holworthy  and  Univer- 
sity Halls,  Holden  Chapel,  a  new  stone  building  re- 
cently erected,  and  3  College  houses,  besides  that  for 
the  President.  These  buildings  are  all  situated  in  a 
spacious  square,  and  are  handsomely  shaded  with  a 
variety  of  trees.  There  are  annually  educated  here 
about  300  students.  The  amount  of  property  belong- 
ing to  the  institution,  it  is  said,  falls  little  short  of  5600,- 


Kh:Ji^"-.i-:«r-  ..-.'..~A  J vw-Jtiife.-;t^J«S« 


362 


FROM   WHITEHALL   TO  BOSTON. 


000.  It  contains  an  extensive  philosophical  aparatus, 
and  a  library  of  about  25,000  volumes.  Cambridge 
contains  3  handsome  villages,  a  court  house,  jail,  state 
arsenal,  8  houses  of  public  worship,  and  about  5000  in- 
habitants. 

Two  miles  from  Cambridge  is  the  city  of  Boston, 
The  two  places  are  connected  by  a  bridge  3846  feet 
long  and  40  wide,  with  a  causeway  of  3344  feet.  The 
eost  of  the  whole  was  $76,700.  [For  a  descripti(m  qf 
Boston f  stt  subsequent  pages.] 

FROM  WHITEHALL   TO  BOSTON — 178  mileS. 

A  stage  leaves  Whitehall  daily,  (Sundays  excepted) 
passing  through  the  villages  of  Cast'.eton  and  Rutland,* 
connecting  at  Chester  with  the  route  from  Saratoga 
Springs,  and  reaches  Boston  the  third  day. 


Fairhaven,  9  miles  from  Whitehall,  contains  sever- 
al mills  and  manufactories  of  iron,  and  about  fifty 
houses. 


Castleton,  5  miles  farther,  is  a  handsome  village  of 
about  too  houses,  and  contains  a  medical  college  and 
classical  seminary,  the  latter  located  on  an  eminence 
south  of  the  village,  and  commanding  an  extensive 
view  of  a  rich  and  beautiful  country.  It  is  160  feet  in 
length  and  40  in  breadth,  with  projections  in  the  cen- 
tre and  ends  of  46  and  55  feet,  and  is  3  stories  high. 


*  A  rail  road  is  about  being  constructed  from  White- 
ball  to  this  place. 


CASTLETON. 


363 


exclusive  of  a  basement.  To  the  building  is  attached 
a  play-ground  of  about  six  acres,  a  part  of  which  is  to 
be  devoted  to  a  garden.  The  course  of  instruction  in 
this  institution,  which  is  liberally  patronized,  corres- 
ponds with  that  of  the  most  favored  seminaries  of  learn- 
ing in  the  country. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  the  village,  at  the  junction 
of  the  Hubbardton  with  the  main  road,  are  slight  re- 
mains of  a  fort  and  breast  work,  which  were  occupied 
during  the  revolutionary  war ;  two  miles  north  of  which 
the  Hubbarton  road  passes  over  the  ground  where  a 
severe  action  was  fought  bet'.Vocii  a  detachment  of  Bur- 
goyne's  army  and  a  body  of  American  troops.  The 
latter  composed  the  rear  guard  of  the  Americans 
which  evacuated  Ticonderoga  in  July,  1777,  and  were 
commanded  by  Col.  Warner.  They  wero  about  1000 
strong,  and  were  overtaken  by  a  force  of  nearly  the 
same  number  under  Gen.  Frazer.  A  long,  severe  and 
obstinate  conflict  ensued  ;  when  the  arrivcl  of  General 
Reidsell,  with  his  division  of  Germans,  compelled  the 
Americans  to  give  way  in  all  directions.  The  British 
loss  was  stated  by  Gen.  Burgoyne  at  35  k}\l  J  and  144 
wounded ;  and  the  American  loss  was  estimated  by 
Gen.  St.  Clair  at  50  killed  and  wounded.  It  is  gener- 
ally supposed  that  the  loss  of  both  armies  was  much 
greater. 

The  Americans  retreated  to  the  south,  and  took  part 
in  the  Bennington  battle  on  the  16th  of  August,  and  in 
the  capture  of  Burgoyne  ai  Saratoga  in  October  fol- 
lowing. 


^i^-^A.  iLut^HUli  < 


-'.•-fc  .J-A  .i^  J  ^^^u^t_ 


39i 


FROM   BURLINGTON   TO   BOSTON. 


^i 


Rutland,  10  miles  from  Castleton,  is  the  capital  of 
Rttland  county.  It  is  situated  3  miles  west  of  the 
Green  Mountains,  in  view  of  Killington  Peak,  and  for 
beauty  of  local  situation  is  not  surpassed  by  any  vil- 
lage in  the  northern  states.  It  contains  about  200  hou- 
ses, three  churches,  a  bank,  court  house  and  jail. 

Ten  miles  from  Rutland,  in  the  town  of  Shrewsbu- 
ry, the  road  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
which  are  crossed  in  travelling  12  miles  farther.  No 
part  of  the  passage  is  precipitous  ;  though  the  road  is 
less  pleasant  than  that  leading  from  Manchester.  {See 
p.  357.) 

Chester  is  40  miles  from  Rutland,  from  whence  the 
route  to  Boston  is  the  same  as  that  noticed  at  page 
357. 

FROM  BURLINGTON  TO   BOSTON, 

{through  WindsoVy  Vt.) 

From  Burlington,  Vt.  where  the  Champlain  steam- 
boats touch  in  the  passage  up  and  down  the  lake,  sta- 
ges depart  for  Boston  daily,  passing  through  Montpe- 
lier  and  Windsor,  Vt.,  Claremont  and  Amherst,  N.  H., 
Biilerica  and  Medford,  Mass.,  and  reach  Boston  on  the 
third  day.  Distance  206  miles— fare  jS8.  The  inter- 
vening distances  are  as  follow : 


R 


FROM   BURLINGTON  TO   BOSTON. 


3G5 


Miles. 

Williston, S 

Richmond, , .  9 

Bolton, 2 

"Waterbury, 8 

Moretown, 4 

Montpelier, 7 

Wiiliamsto  wn, 10 

Brookfield, 8 

Randolph, 12 

Royalton, ,  3 

Barnard,...^ 6 

Woodstock, 8 

Windsor, 14 

Claremont,..  ••»....  9 


Lempster, 1'2 

Washington, 7 

Hillsborough, 9 

Francistown, 9 

Mount  Vernon, 9 

Amherst, 6 

Merrimack, 3! 

Dunstable, 7 

Tyngsborough, ,  6 

Chelmsford, 7 

Billerica, 4 

Woburn, 9 


Boston, 10 


Burlington.    {Seep.SiO.) 


Montpelier  is  situated  on  the  Onion  river^  a  little 
north  of  the  centre  of  the  state,  38  miles  from  Burling- 
ton. It  is  at  present  the  seat  of  government,  and  has 
a  new  and  elegant  state  house,  a  court  house,  jail  and 
3  houses  of  public  worship,  besides  a  number  of  man- 
ufacturing establishments.  It  contains  about  2000  in- 
habitants. 

With  the  eiMieption  of  a  narrow  vale,  through  which 
the  river  passes,  the  villag-e  is  surrovmded  by  lofty  hills 
and  mouii,tains,  which  give  it  the  appearance  of  seclu- 
sion from  the  rest  of  the  world.  The  road  for  several 
miles  previous  to  reaching  the  village,  and  after  leaving 
it,  is  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  the  mountain  scene- 
ry is  unusually  romantic. 

In  passing  from  Montpelier  to  Randolph,  the  route 
is  on  what  is  termed  the  gulph  road.    This  gulph  is  6 


366 


^'^■'  ^■_  ",'■ 


WOODSTOCK — WINDSOR, 


miles  in  extent,  between  lofty  mountains,  with  barely 
a  sufficient  space  for  a  road  and  the  White  river,  a 
beautifully  transparent  stream,  exhibiting,  in  most  in> 
stances,  a  bottom  of  white  gravel. 

Randolph,  30  miles  from  Montpelier,  is  on  a  lofty 
ridge  of  land  affording  some  of  the  finest  farms  in  the 
state.  The  village  is  small,  buc  much  admired  for  its 
location  and  neatness. 


RoTALTON,  3  miles.    A  pleasant  village. 

Woodstock,  14  miles,  the  capital  of  Windsor  coun- 
ty, is  a  place  of  considerable  business.  The  principal 
village,  called  Woodstock  Green,  is  on  the  bank  of  the 
Clueechy  river,  and  contains  a  bank,  court  house,  jail^ 
five  churches  and  a  woollen  factory — also  an  extensive 
manufactory  of  scythes. 

Windsor,  14  miles,  is  a  beautiful  town  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut.  The  houses  exhibit  a  very 
neat  and  handsome  appearance,  and  stand  in  a  fertile 
and  richly  cultivated  tract  of  country.  It  contains  a 
bank,  female  seminary,  a  number  of  churches,  and 
the  Vermont  Penitentiary.  The  bridge  built  across  the 
Connecticut  at  this  place  is  one  of  the  handsomest  on 
the  river,  ^scutneyj  a  mountain  in  the  south-west  part 
of  the  town,  is  1732  feet  in  height,  and  is  well  worthy 
the  attention  of  those  who  take  delight  in  the  rich  and 
diversified  prospects  afforded  from  mountain  summits. 

At  Windsor  the  route  crosses  the  Connecticut  river 
into  New-Hampshire,  and  proceedj  through  a  fertile 


FROM  BURLINGTON  TO  BOSTON. 


367 


country,  occasionally  interspersed  with  a  plenaant  vil- 
lage, to  Boston. 


FROM  BURLINGTON  TO  BOSTON, 

{By  way  of  the  White  Mountains  and  Concord^  JWw- 
Hampshire) — 275  miles.* 

The  interraediate  distances  on  this  route  are  as  fol- 
low : 


*■ 


J\Siles» 
From  Burlington  to 

Montpelier,*...  38 
Littleton,  N.  H. . .  40 
E.  A.  Crawford's,.  18 
Notch  of  the  White 

Mountains, 5 

Notch  House,...  2 
Crawford's  Farm,    6 

Bartlett, 7 

Conway 10-126 

Six  Mile  Pond,..  11 
Centre  Harbor,,,  24 
Guildford, 13 


Miles, 
Union  Bridge,. . , ,     7 
Winnepiseogee 

Bridge, 4 

Concord 17-202 

Hookset,. ,, 8 

Amoskeag, 7 

Piscataqua, 2 

Merrimack, 10 

Nashua, ,,,.     6 

Tyngsboro', 8 

Lowell, 7 

By  rail  road. 
Boston, 25-275^ 


*  Strangers  designing  to  proceed  directly  to  Boston 
from  Burlington,  via  Concord,  N.  H.  without  visiting 
the  White  mountains,  continue  on  the  route  from  Mont- 
pelier to  Randolph,  as  noticed  at  p.  365,  and  from  thence 
to  Hanover,  25  miles,  and  to  Concord  55  miles  farther. 
(The  route  from  the  latter  place  to  Boston  is  noticed  at 
p.  378.)  Hanover  is  located  on  a  handsome  plain,  half 
a  mile  from  the  Connecticut  river,  and  contains  the 
buildings  of  Dartmouth  college  and  about  80  dwelling 
houses.  The  college  derives  its  name  from  William, 
Earl  of  Dartmouth,  one  of  its  principal  benefactors.  It 
was  founded  in  1769,  by  the  late  Doct.  Eleazer  Whee- 
lock,  and  is  in  a  flourishing  condition.    A  medical  iiv 

UG 


363 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


A  stage  can  be  taken  at  Burlington  daily  for  Mont- 
pelier,  Vt.  distant  3S  miles,  where  it  is  recommended  to 
travellers  to  proceed  to  Littleton,  N.  H.  40  miles  cast 
of  Montpelier,  from  vhence  a  stage  passes  three  times 
a  week  through  the  J^'otch  of  the  White  Mountains  to 
Conway ;  and  from  thence  to  Portland,  (Maine,)  throe 
times  a  week.  From  Littleton  to  Ethan  A.  Crawford's 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  18  miles,  about  half  the 
distance  is  through  a  cultivated  country ;  but  the  re- 
maining part  is  through  an  extensive,  and,  but  for  the 
road,  an  impenetrable  forest. 

The  first  view  of  the  White  Mountains,  as  distin- 
guished from  the  multitude  of  peaks  and  summits 
which  meet  the  eye  in  every  direction,  is  obtained  a 
short  distance  from  Littleton  ;  but  Mount  Wasliington 
is  not  seen  till  arriving  near  to  Crawford's.  The  first 
view  of  these  mountains  is  magnificent,  and  as  they 
are  approached,  they  become  moro  and  more  so,  until 
the  bare  bleak  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  rising 
far  above  the  immense  piles  which  surround  it,  strikes 
the  traveller  with  awe  and  astonishment.  But  the  emo- 
tions which  one  receives  from  the  grand  and  majestic 
scenery  which  surrounds  him  here,  are  utterly  beyond 
the  power  of  description.  There  is  no  single  object  up- 
on which  the  eye  rests  and  which  the  mind  may  grasp. 


stitution  is  connected  with  the  college,  and  is  accom- 
modated with  a  brick  edifice,  containing,  besides  rooms 
for  students,  a  la^'oratory,  anatomical  museum,  minsr- 
alogical  cabinet,  library  and  lecture  rooms.  The  num- 
ber of  students  educated  at  this  college  annually  is  be- 
tween 2  and  300. 


i 


WHITE  mountains/ 


S69 


)r  Mont- 
ended  to 
liles  cast 
ee  times 
atains  to 
e,)  thrive 
awford'fl 
half  the 
t  there- 
tfor  the 

a  distin- 

summits 

tained  a 

sliington 

The  first 

as  they 

so,  until 

n,  rising 

strikes 

he  emo- 

majestic 

beyond 

ect  up- 

grasp, 


accom- 
rooms 
minsr- 

^e  num- 
is  be* 


^ 


but  the  vaet  and  multiplic  \  features  of  the  landscape 
actually  bewild>  •  while  ihey  delight. 

These  mountains  are  the  loftiest  in  the  U.  States  east 
of  the  Rocky  mountains ;  and  their  heights  above  the 
Connecticut  river  have  been  estimated  »»a  follows : 
Washington,  5350  (i. ;  Jefferson,  6261 ;  Auams,  5383; 
Madison,  5039 ;  Monroe,  4932  ;  Ctuincy,  4470.  From 
the  summit  of  Mount  Washingtc -i,  t!  3  Atlantic  octan 
is  seen  at  Pouland,  65  miles  S.  E. ;  the  Katahdin 
Mountains  '  •  the  N.  E.  near  the  sources  of  the  Penob- 
scot river ;  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on  the 
west;  Mount  Monadnock,  120  miles  to  the  S.  W. ;  and 
numerous  lakes,  rivers,  &c.  within  a  less  circumference. 
The  J^otch  or  Gap  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains, 
and  is  a  deep  and  narrow  defile,  in  oni.  /lace  only  22 
feet  wide.  A  road  passes  through,  which  crosses 
the  river  Saco ;  into  which  several  tributary  streams 
enter  from  the  mountain  heights,  forming  many  beau- 
tiful cascades.  Lafayette  Mountain  is  bi  Mated  in  the 
northeast  part  of  the  township  of  Francoi.l9,  nearly 
equidistant  from  Mount  Washington]at  ihe  northeast, 
and  Moose-Hillock  at  the  southwest,  being  about  20 
miles  from  each ;  and  it  is  obviously  more  elevated 
than  any  other  summit  in  sight  excep,  ihe  White 
Mountains. 

At  the  Franconia  Notch,  near  the  road  leading  from 
Franconia  to  Plymouth,  and  about  three  miles  south  of 
Mount  Lafayette,  a  foot  path  has  been  clear-  <^  out  frori 
the  road  to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  The  point  where 
the  path  commences  is  six  miles  from  the  Franconia 
iron  works,  and  the  length  of  it  from  the  road  to  the 
summit  is  three  jniles ;  and.  througho'it  this  distance 


370 


WIIITB  MOUNTAINS. 


it  is  almost  uniformly  steep.  The  ascent  for  the  dis- 
tance of  about  two  miles  is  through  a  thick  forest  of 
hemlock,  spruce,  &,j.  Higher  up,  the  mountain  is  en- 
compasEod  with  a  zone,  about  half  a  mile  in  width,  cov- 
ered witli  Btinted  treps,  chiefly  hemlock  and  spruce. 
Above  tl)G  upper  edge  of  this  zone,  wJiich  is  about  half 
a  mile  from  the  top,  trees  and  shrubs  disappear.  Tho 
summit  is  composed  chiefly  of  bare  rocks,  partly  in 
large  masses,  and  partly  broken  into  small  pieces, 

Ths  view  from  the  top  is  exceedingly  picturesque 
and  magnificent.  Although  it  is  not  so  extensive  as 
that  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  yet  ow- 
ing to  the  more  advantageous  situation  of  Lafayette, 
being  more  ccniral  as  it  respects  this  mountainous  re- 
gion, it  is  not  inferior  to  eith(?r  in  beauty  or  grandeur. 
The  vic.v  ti  the  northeast,  east,  south  and  southwest, 
is  on?  ii'^inl  panorama  of  mountain  scenery,  present- 
ing r.io.c  tlian  fifty  summits,  which  when  viewed  from 
this  cicv  'lion  do  not  appear  to  dift'or  greatly  in  height. 
Some  of  these  mountains  are  covered  with  verdure  to 
the  top,  while  the  summits  of  others  are  composed  of 
naked  rocks ;  and  down  the  sides  of  many  of  them 
may  be  seen  slides  or  avalanches  of  earth,  rocks  and 
trees,  more  or  less  extensive,  which  serve  to  diversify 
the  scene.  Tho  only  appearance  of  cultivation  in  this 
whole  compass  is  confined  to  a  few  farms  seen  in  a  di- 
rection west  of  south,  on  the  road  to  Plymouth,  extend- 
ing along  the  Pcmigewasset  branch  of  the  Merrimack. 
To  the  w^est  is  seen  the  territory  watered  by  the  Con- 
necticut and  the  Ammonoosuck. 

At  a  place  in  the  road  through  the  Pranconia  Notch 
wher3  the  path  up  the  mountain  commences,  is  exhi- 


HTDITE  MOUNTAIRS. 


S7I 


ir  thodis* 
c  forest  of 
ain  is  en- 
V'idth,  cov- 
id  spruce, 
about  half 
ear.    Tho 
partly  in 
ieccs, 
icturesque 
tcnsivo  as 
[1,  yet  ow- 
Lafayette, 
ainous  re- 
grandeur, 
southwest, 
f,  present- 
wed  from 
in  height. 
Iverdure  to 
posed  of 
of  them 
ocks  and 
diversify 
>n  in  this 
In  in  a  di- 
in,  extend- 
lerrimack. 
the  Con- 

iia  Notch 
is  exhi- 


bited  to  the  view  of  the  traveller,  on  the  mountain 
opposite  to  Lafayette,  the  Profile  or  the  Old  J\Ian  of  tha 
JVIountainf  a  singular  lusus  nn/rrrce,  and  a  remarkable 
curiosity.  It  is  situated  on  tho  brov  *h'  peak  or 
precipice,  which  rises  almost  perpendicu  '-om  the 

surface  of  a  small  lake,  directly  in  fn  the  height 

(as  estimated)  of  from  600  to  1000  fcef.  front  of 

this  precipice  is  formed  of  solid  rock,  but.  an  viewed 
from  the  point  where  the  profile  is  seen,  the  whole  of  it 
appears  to  be  covered  with  trees  and  vegetation,  ex- 
cept about  space  enough  for  a  side  view  of  the  Old 
Man's  bust  All  the  principal  features  of  the  human 
face,  as  seen  in  a  profile,  are  formed  with  surprising 
exactness.  The  little  lake  at  the  bottom  of  the  preci- 
pice, is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  Pemigewasset  river.  Half  a  mile  to  the 
north  of  this  there  is  another  lake,  surrounded  with 
romantic  scenery,  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  more 
than  half  a  mile  in  breadth.  This  is  one  of  the  sources 
of  the  southern  branch  of  the  Ammonoosuck,  which 
flows  into  the  Connecticut.  These  lakes  are  both  sit- 
uated in  the  Notch,  very  near  tho  road,  and  near  to 
the  point  where  the  steep  ascent  of  Mount  Lafayette 
commences.  The  northern  lake  is  900  feet  above  the 
site  of  the  Franconia  iron  works,  and  the  highest  point 
in  the  road  through  the  Notch  is  1028  feet  above  the 
same  level.  Other  curiosities  in  this  vicinity  are,  the 
Basin  and  the  Pulpit. 

A  portion  of  the  Gap,  including  the  Notch  in  the 
White  Mountains,  which  is  the  most  sublime  and  inter- 
esting, is  about  5  or  6  miles  in  length.  It  is  composed 
of  a  donble  barrier  of  mountains,  rising;  very  abruptly 

gg2 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145S0 

(716)  872-4503 


^ 


;\ 


372 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


from  both  sides  of  the  wild  roaring  river  Saco,  which 
frequently  washes  the  feet  of  both  barriers.  Sometimes 
there  is  not  room  for  a  single  carriage  to  pass  between 
the  stream  and  the  mountains,  and  the  road  is  cut  into 
the  mountain  itself.  This  double  barrier  rises  on  each 
Bide  to  the  height  of  nearly  half  a  mile  in  perpendicular 
altitude,  and  is  capped  here  and  there  by  proud  castel- 
lated turrets,  standing  high  above  the  continued  ridgei^ 
These  are  not  straight,  but  are  formed  into  numerous 
zigzag  turns,  which  frequently  cut  off  the  view  and 
seem  to  imprison  the  traveller  in  the  vast,  gloomy  gulf. 
The  sides  of  the  mountains  are  deeply  furrowed  and 
scarred  by  the  tremendous  effects  of  the  memorable 
deluge  and  avalanches  of  1826.  No  tradition  existed 
of  any  slide  in  former  times,  and  such  as  are  now  ob- 
served to  have  formerly  happened,  had  been  complete- 
ly veiled  by  forest  growth  and  shrubs.  At  length,  on 
the  28th  of  June,  two  months  before  the  fatal  avalanche, 
there  was  one  not  far  from  the  Willey  house,  which 
so  far  alarmed  the  family,  that  they  erected  an  encamp- 
ment a  little  distance  from  their  dwelling,  intending  it 
as  a  place  of  refuge.  On  the  fatal  night,  it  was  impen- 
etrably dark  and  frightfully  tempestuous ;  the  lonely 
family  had  retired  to  rest,  in  their  humble  dwelling,  six 
imiles  from  the  nearest  human  creature.  The  avalan- 
ches descended  in  every  part  of  the  gulf,  for  a  distance 
of  two  miles ;  and  a  very  heavy  one  began  on  the 
mountain  top,  immediately  above  the  house,  and  de- 
scended in  a  direct  line  towards  it;  the  sweeping  tor- 
rent, a  river  from  the  clonds,  and  a  river  full  oi'  trees, 
earth,  stone  and  rocks,  rushed  to  the  house  and  mar-* 
vellously  divided  within  six  feet  of  it,  and  just  behind 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


873 


),  which 
rnetimes 
between 
cut  into 
on  each 
ndicular 
i  castel- 
d  ridgen. 
iimerous 
iew  and 
my  gulf, 
ved  and 
morable 
1  existed 
now  ob- 
jmplete- 
igth,  on 
alanche, 

which 
encamp- 
nding  it 
i  impen- 

lonely 

ling,  six 

avalan- 

distance 

on  the 
and  de- 
)ing  tor- 
M  trees, 
nd  mar-* 

behind 


it,  and  passed  on  either  side,  sweeping  away  the  stable 
and  horses,  and  completely  encircling  the  dwellings  but 
leaving  it  untouched.  At  this  time,  probably  towards 
midnight,  (as  the  state  of  the  beds  and  apparel,  &C 
showed  that  they  had  retired  to  rest,)  the  family  issued 
from  the  house,  and  were  swept  away  by  the  torrent. 

Search,  for  two  or  three  days,  was  made  in  vain  for 
the  bodies,  when  they  were  at  length  found.  They 
were  evidently  floated  along  by  the  torrent  and  covered 
by  the  diiflt  wood.  A  pole,  with  a  board  nailed  across 
it,  like  a  guide  post,  now  indicates  the  spot  where  the 
bodies  were  found.  Had  the  family  remained  in  the 
house  they  would  have  been  entirely  safe.  Even  the 
little  green  in  front  and  east  of  the  house  was  undis- 
turbed, and  a  flock  of  sheep,  (a  pail  of  the  possession 
of  the  family,)  remained  on  this  small  spot  of  ground, 
and  were  found  there  the  next  morning  in  safety — al- 
though ths  torrent  dividing  just  above  the  house,  and 
forming  a  curve  on  both  sides,  had  swept  completely 
around  them,  again  united  below,  and  covered  the 
meadows  and  orchard  with  ruins,  which  remain  there 
to  this  day.  Nine  persons  were  destroyed  by  this  ca- 
tastrophe, and  the  story  of  their  virtues  and  tiieir  fate 
is  often  told  to  the  traveller  by  the  scattered  popula- 
tion of  these  mountain  vallies,  in  a  style  of  simple 
pathos  and  minuteness  of  detail,  which  has  all  the  in- 
terest of  truth  and  incident  of  romance  in  its  recital. 
The  scene  of  this  disaster  was  about  7  miles  from 
Ethan  A.  Crawford's,  and  2  miles  from  the  commence- 
ment of  the  Notch,  where  Thomas  Crawford,  a 
brother  of  Ethan,  now  resides. 


.^.<^ 


U!.*^:. 


374 


WHITB  MOUNTAINS. 


The  number  of  visitors  to  the  White  Mountains  has 
been  considerably  increased,  on  account  of  the  interest 
excited  by  these  avdanches.  The  most  sublime  views  of 
them,  (several  of  which  are  nearly  equal  to  the  memo- 
rable one  which  swept  away  the  unfortunate  Willey 
family,)  may  be  seen  all  along  for  several  miles,  in 
passing  through  the  Notch.  They  are  also  observed 
from  various  points  in  the  country  around,  extending 
down  the  sides  of  many  of  the  elevated  mountains ; 
and  the  astonishing  effects  of  this  extraordinary  inun- 
dation are  also  witnessed  in  the  great  enlargement  of 
the  channels  of  the  streams  which  rise  in  these  clusters 
of  mountains.  This  is  the  fact  especially  with  regard  to 
the  channel  of  the  principal  branch  of  the  Ammonoo- 
euck,  which  rises  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Wash* 
ington. 

The  camp  which  was  built  by  Mr.  Crawford  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors  over  night,  two  miles  and  a 
quarter  from  the  summit  of  Mount  ''"^'•shington,  was 
situated  near  this  branch,  and  war  rried  away  by 
the  swelling  of  the  stream,  A  small  camp  has  been 
erected  in  its  place,  but  it  is  of  little  use,  and  affords  no 
accommodations  for  lodging  visitors  over  night. 

The  distance  from  Crawford's  house  to  the  summit 
of  Mount  Washington,  is  nine  miles.  Through  a  part 
of  this  distance  a  carriage  road  is  now  made,  leaving 
only  4  or  5  miles  to  be  ascended  on  foot.  The  time 
usually  occupied  in  ascending  the  mountain,  reckoning 
from  the  time  of  leaving  Crawford's  house  to  the  time 
of  returning  to  it  again,  is  from  ten  to  fourteen  hours ; 
and  the  shortest  time  in  which  the  enterprise  has  been 
performed  is  about  eight  hours* 


PRTBBURGH. 


375 


Continuing  the  route  through  the  Notch,  the  first 
bouse  reached  is  the  elder  Crawford's,  six  miles  from 
the  "  Notch  house/*  as  that  once  occupied  by  the  un- 
fortunate Willey  is  called.  From  thence  to  Bartlett  is 
seven  miles.  From  this  place  to  Conway,  which  is  ten 
miles,  there  are  more  appearances  of  cultivation,  par- 
ticularly in  the  little  valley  through  which  the  road 
passes.  The  country  around,  however,  is  still  wild  and 
unimproved,  displaying  a  succession  of  bold  and  lofty 
mountain  scenery.  The  prospect  at  the  village  of 
Conway  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  high 
mountains,  and  the  several  summits  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains, rising  at  30  miles  distance,  are  more  easily  distin- 
guished than  at  any  point  near  them. 

Fryeburgh,  in  Maine,  is  10  miles  from  Conway 
and  is  generally  taken  in  the  route  to  the  White 
Mountains  from  the  east.  It  is  a  considerable  village, 
built  upon  a  wide  plain  upon  two  broad  streets,  and 
has  a  respectable  acadf^my.  It  is  chiefly  interesting 
as  being  associated  with  the  early  history  of  our  coun- 
try. About  a  mile  from  the  village  is  Lovell's  pond, 
the  scene  of  the  bloody  fight  in  1725  between  a  gallant 
band  of  Americans  under  Capt.  Lovell,  and  the  rem- 
nant of  the  Pequawket  tribe  under  the  renowned  Chief 
Paugus.  From  Fryeburgh  to  Portland,  distant  52 
miles,  the  road  is  over  a  dull  and  uinteresting  country ; 
but  travellers  designing  to  visit  that  place  in  connec- 
tion with  the  White  Mountains  will  find  it  the  most  di- 
rect route.  [For  a  description  of  PorUandf  see  the  ronU* 
from  Boston  to  that  place  in  subsequent  pages-l 


r'X- 


376 


FROM   CONWAT   TO   CONCORD. 


,   .y 


>*«:■ 


SMKc; 


FROM  CONWAT  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H. — 76  OlileS. 

Returning  to  Conway,  and  proceeding  on  the  route 
to  Concord,  Six  Mile  Pond  is  passed  in  going  11  miles, 
and  Centre  Harbor  is  reached  in  going  24  miles  far- 
ther. The  road  for  20  or  30  miles,  is  through  a  valley 
bordered  with  lofly  mountains,  exhibiting  only  an  oc- 
casional settlement. 

Centre  Harbor  is  on  Lake  Winnipiseogee,  the  lar- 
gest lake  in  the  state.  It  is  23  miles  long  and  from  6 
to  14  broad,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  beautiful  and 
sublime  scenery.  It  discharges  its  waters  through  the 
Winnipiseogee  river  into  the  Merrimack,  232  feet  be- 
low the  lake.  From  the  top  of  Red  Mountain  in  Cen- 
tre Harbor,  1500  feet  high,  and  which  is  accessible  for 
about  two  thirds  of  the  way  in  a  carriage,  there  is  an 
extensive  prospect.  At  the  distance  of  70  miles  to  the 
southwest  may  be  seen  Mount  Monadnock ;  at  the 
west^  the  Kyarsage  and  Simson  mountains;  at  the 
north-west,  the  Moose  Hillock ;  at  the  north,  the  Sand- 
wich mountains,  with  the  Squam  lake  intervening ;  at 
the  south-east,  the  Winnipiseogee  lake,  with  its  nu- 
merous islands,  bays,  and  the  mountains  M'hich  rise 
from  its  borders,  including  Ossippee  on  the  north-east, 
Gunstock  on  the  south,  and  a  semi-circular  mountain 
at  the  termination  of  the  lake  at  the  south-east ;  the 
whole  forming  a  vast  billowy  ocean  of  lofly  mountains, 
with  their  grand  intersecting  curves,  exhibiting  a  com- 
plete panorama  of  the  sublimest  mountain  scenery. 

Squam  Lake,  which  lies  west  of  the  mountain,  is  10 
miles  long  and  6  wide,  and  like  the  Winnipiseogee,  ia 


f 


COKCORD. 


377 


miles. 

the  route 
11  miles, 
miles  far- 
h  a  valley 
ily  an  oo- 

e,  the  lar- 

nd  from  6 

iitiful  and 

rough  the 

(2  feet  be- 

n  in  Cen- 

essible  for 

bere  is  an 

liles  to  the 

tc ;  at  the 

;  at  the 

he  Sand- 

ening;  at 

h  its  nu- 

hich  rise 

orth-east, 

mountain 

east;  the 

ountains, 

ig  a  com- 

nery. 

ain,  is  10 
seogee,  ia 


sprinkled  with  numerous  small  and  beautiful  islands. 
The  finest  of  trout  are  caught  in  these  lakes,  and  their 
I  shores  abound  with  an  abundance  of  game,  affording 
to  the  angler  and  fowler  ample  means  of  employment 
as  well  as  amusement. 

The  route  from  Centre  Harbor  to  Concord,'*'  41  miles, 
passes  through  an  interesting  country,  affording  a  view 
ofseveral  flourishing  manufacturing  villages.      . 

Concord  is  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire.  The 
village  is  principally  composed  of  two  streets  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Merrimack  river,  and  contains  a  state 
house,  state  prison,  town  house,  bank,  several  church- 
es, 4  or  5  printing  offices,  and  about  300  dwelling  hou- 
ses. The  state  house,  located  near  the  centre  of  the 
village,  is  an  elegant  building  of  hewn  granite,  100 
feet  long,  with  a  large  hall  on  the  first  floor,  and  the 
senate  and  representatives'  chamber  on  the  second. 
The  building  is  surrounded  by  a  spacious  yard,  which 
is  enclosed  by  a  handsome  wall.  The  state  prison,  a 
strong  building,  is  a  short  distince  from  the  state 
house. 


I  *  Another  route  from  Centre  Harbor,  and  which  will 

be  preferred  by  those  who  do  not  wish  to  visit  Concord, 
is  to  take  the  steam  boat  which  crosses  the  lake,  (which 
is  here  25  miles  wide,)  3  times  a  week  to  Alton  Bay ; 
from  whence  stages  are  taken  to  Dover,  N.  H.  40  miles 
distant;  and  from  thence  to  Boston,  through  Ports- 
mouth, N.  H.,  Newburyport  and  Salem,  Mass.,  60 
miles  farther.  By  this  route,  passengers  leaving  Con- 
way in  the  mommg,  reach  Dover  the  same  evening, 
andf  Bostoii  the  next  day  at  noon.  Fare  on  the  entira 
route,  $9, 


y#s^aiii«4<;" 


■T'v^l-. 


378 


FROM  CONCORD   TO   BOSTON. 


The  Merrimack  river  is  navigable  for  largo  boats 
from  Concord  to  Chelmsford  ;  from  whence  to  Boston 
the  communication  is  continued  in  the  Middlesex  ca- 
nal,  28  miles  long. 

FROM   CONCORD   TO   BOSTON — 73  lUileS. 

Stages  leave  Concord  every  day,  passing  through 
Hookset,  Amoskeag,  Piscataqua,  Merrimack,  Nashua,, 
and  Tyngsboro*  to  Lowell,  from  whence  a  rail  road 
is  taken  to  Boston.  The  route  is  mostly  along  the 
bank  of  the  Merrimack  river;  which,  owing  to  its  rapid 
descent,  afibrds  many  important  manufacturing  facil- 
ities. 

Nasaua,  33  miles  from  Concord,  is  the  most  impor- 
tant village  between  that  place  and  Lowell.  It  is  con- 
nected with  the  Merrimack  river  by  means  of  a  canal 
one  and  a  half  male  long,  and  contains  several  manu- 
factories and  about  3000  inhabitants. 


Lowell,  15  miles  from  Nashua,  is  an  incorporated 
city,  and  the  largest  manufacturing  town  in  the  United 
States.  It  is  located  on  the  Merrimack  river  and  the 
MidcDesex  canal  leading  to  Boston.  The  falls  of  the 
river  at  this  place  are  30  feet,  and  afford  the  most  am- 
ple means  for  extensive  operations  by  water  power. 
The  first  dwelling  and  factory  were  commenced  in 
1813,  and'  the  place  now  assumes  the  character  of  a 
large  bustling  city,  laid  into  streets  with  much  taste 
and  elegance,  and  the  whole  appearance  of  the  place 
is  rendered  peculiarly  interesting  from  the  magnificent 
and  numerous  factories  and  public  buildings  with  which 


LOWELL. 


379 


3  boats 
Boston 
sex  ca- 


through 
^ashua^ 
111  road 
)ng  the 
ts  rapid 
ig  faciU 


,  impor- 

t  is  con- 

'  a  canal 

manu- 


porated 
United 
land  the 
of  the 
lost  ani' 
power, 
iced  in 
Ler  of  a 
Ih  taste 
le  place 
tificent 
which 


it  is  adorned.  Its  population  at  the  census  in  1830  was 
6474,  in  1835, 12,363,  and  at  present  (1837)  is  estimat- 
ed at  1 7,000.  This  place  has  been  not  inaptly  termed 
the  "Manchester  of  America.''  The  whole  amount  of 
capital  invested  is  about  $8,000,000,  and  the  number  of 
large  mills  in  operation,  24.  These  mills  are  each 
about  157  feet  long  and  45  broad — of  brick,  five  stories 
high,  each  story  averaging  from  10  to  13  feet  high, 
thus  giving  opportunity  for  a  free  circulation  of  air. 
The  aggregate  number  of  spindles  used  is  90,000 — 
looms  3500.  The  whole  number  of  operatives  employ* 
ed  is  about  5000,  of  which  1200  are  males  and  3800  fe- 
males. The  quantity  of  raw  cotton  used  in  these 
mills  per  annum  exceeds  80,000,000  pounds  or  20,000 
bales.  The  number  of  yards  of  cotton  goods  of  vari- 
ous qualities  manufactured  annually  is  about  27,000,- 
000.  Were  the  different  pieces  united,  they  would 
reach  to  the  distance  of  15,300  miles !  In  this  esti- 
mate is  included  about  2,000,000  yards  of  coarse  mixed 
cotton  and  woollen  negro  clothing,  in  the  manufs.rture 
of  which  about  80,000  pounds  of  wool  are  used  per  i  n- 
num. 

The  quantity  of  wool,  manufactured  annually  into 
cassimeres,  is  about  150,000  pounds,  making  about 
150,000  yards. 

The  Lowell  Carpet  Manufactory  is  in  itself  a  curios* 
ity.  Sixty-eight  looms  are  kept  in  operation  by  hand 
labor,  viz.  fifty  for  ingrained  or  Kidderminster  carpet- 
ing, ten  for  Brussels,  and  eight  for  rugs  of  various  kinds. 
One  hundred  and  forty  thousand  pounds  of  wool  in  tho 
course  of  a  year  are  manufactured  into  rich  and  beau- 
tiful carpets,  the  colors  of  which  will  vie  with  any  im- 

HH 


380 


LOWELL. 


ported.  The  number  of  yards  of  carpeting  made  per 
annum  is  upwards  of  120,000,  besides  rugs.  The  op- 
eratives at  present  employed  in  all  these  mills  receive 
for  their  labor  about  $1,200,000  per  annum. 

The  edifice  in  which  all  the  machinery  employed  in 
the  mills  is  manufactured,  is  termed  the  *  Machine 
Shop,'  belonging  to  the  Locks  and  Canal  Company, 
and  is  probably  the  largest  *  shop'  in  the  country,  be- 
ing built  of  brick,  four  stories  high,  two  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  in  length  and  forty-five  feet  in  width. 

The  great  water >powcr  is  produced  by  a  canal  a 
mile  and  a  half  long,  sixty  feet  wide,  and  eight  feet 
deep  from  its  commencement  above  the  head  of  Paw- 
tucket  falls  on  the  Merrimack,  to  its  termination  in 
Concord  river.  The  entire  fall  is  thirty-two  feet  The 
water  is  taken  from  this  canal  by  smaller  canals,  and 
conveyed  to  the  factories,  and  thence  into  the  Merri- 
mack. There  are  room  and  water  power  sufficient  for 
fifty  additional  factories. 

The  Boston  akd  Lowell  Rail  Road  commences 
at  the  basin  of  the  canal  in  Lowell,  and  afler  passing 
through  a  heavy  excavation  of  rock,  proceeds  over  an 
undulating  country  to  the  Charles  river  at  Boston, 
which  is  crossed  by  a  wooden  viaduct,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Warren  bridge.  The  length  of  the  road  is 
25  miles,  and  the  inclination  on  no  part  of  the  route 
exceeds  10  feet  in  a  mile.  At  first  a  single  track 
only  was  constructed,  but  a  second  has  since  been 
completed.  The  materials  employed  are  principally 
stone  and  iron,  and  the  workmanship  is  highly  cred- 
itable to  the  company  and  to  the  individuals  engag- 
ed in  t!7e  construction.    The  cost  of  the  road,  thus 


BOSTON. 


381 


kde  per 
["he  op 
receive 

)yecl  in 
lachine 
mpany, 
try,  bc- 
'ed  and 
ti. 

canal  a 
vht  feet 
)f  Paw- 
fttion  in 
t  The 
a)s,  and 
p  Merri* 
sient  for 

mences 
)assing 
over  an 
Boston, 
le  west 
road  is 
le  route 
track 
e  been 
acipally 
ly  cred- 
engag- 
d,  thui 


far, has  been  $1,500,000 ;  and  thorecoipts  have  exceed- 
ed the  original  estimates.  At  Wilmington,  a  branch 
7j|  miles  long,  extends  to  Andover ;  from  whence  it  is 
proposed  to  continue  it  to  Haverhill.  The  time  em- 
ployed in  passing  between  Lowell  and  Boston  is  about 
an  hour — fare  $1.         , 

THE  CITY  OP  BOSTON,* 

is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  bottom  of  Massachusetts 
Bay,  on  a  peninsula  of  an  uneven  surface,  two  miles 
long,  and  in  the  widest  part  about  one  mile  broad.  The 
town  owes  its  origin  to  a  spirit  of  civil  and  religious 
liberty,  which  was  excited  to  action  by  the  persecutions 
that  prevailed  in  England  during  the  reigns  of  Ctueen 
Elizabeth,  and  Kings  James  and  Charles  the  First. 
Most  of  those  who  can  properly  be  considered  as  first 
settlers  arrived  prior  to  the  year  1643.  The  place  was 
first  ealied  Trimountain,  in  consequence  of  three  hills 
which  were  on  the  peninsula.  It  was  afterwards  call- 
ed Boston,  in  honor  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cotton,  a  minster 
of  the  first  church  in  the  town,  whose  native  place  was 
Boston  in  England.  ^ 

The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States. 
It  has  1  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  largest  vessels 
at  all  times  of  tide,  and  is  accessible  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year.  It  is  safe  from  every  wind,  and  so  capacious 
that  it  will  allow  500  vessels  to  ride  at  anchor,  while 
the  entrance  is  so  narrow  as  scarcely  to  admit  two 
ships  abreast.    It  contains  about  75  square  miles,  with- 

*  Bowen's  Picture  of  Boston  will  prove  a  valuable 
guide  to  strengers  visiting  that  city  and  its  environs, 


iT:h>: 


389 


BOSTON. 


in  which  are  upwards  of  100  islands  or  rocks ;  and  re- 
ceives within  its  bosom  the  waters  of  the  Mystio, 
Charles,  Neponset  and  Manatticut  rivers,  besides  sev^ 
eral  streams  of  less  magnitude. 

Boston  is  very  extensively  engaged  in  commerce,  and 
there  are  probably  few  cities  in  the  world  where  there 
is  so  much  wealth  in  proportion  to  the  population. 
The  trade,  too,  received  from  an  extensive  inland  coun- 
try,  is  very  great,  the  facilities  for  approaching  the  city 
being  rendered  easy  by  means  of  excellent  roads. 

The  appearance  of  Boston  is  much  admired  by  stran- 
gers, particularly  when  approaching  from  the  sea.  Its 
.streets  do  not  exhibit  so  great  a  regularity  as  some  oth- 
er cities ;  but  its  beautiful  location  and  elegant  public 
and  private  buildings,  together  with  its  richly  ornamen- 
tal grounds  for  promenading,  render  it  altogether  a  pe- 
culiarly delightful  and  attractive  place. 

The  city  is  divided  into  five  local  districts,  called 
North  Boston,  East  Boston,  West  Boston,  South  End 
and  South  Boston ;  and  its  population  is  now  over 
80,000.  From  Copp's  Hill,  in  North  Boston,  which  is 
partly  occupied  for  a  church  yard,  the  British  cannon- 
aded the  town  of  Charlestown  in  1775,  during  the  bat- 
tle of  Bunker  Hill,  when  the  village  was  mostly  de- 
stroyed by  conflagration. 

In  the  south-western  part  of  the  city,  and  in  front  of 
the  state  house,  is  the  celebrated  Common,  presenting 
an  area  of  about  SO  acres,  enclosed  by  an  elegant  iron 
fence,  built  in  1836,  at  an  expense  of  $35,000,  and  con- 
taining the  Mall,  a  very  beautiful  public  walk,  adorned 
with  rows  of  trees.  This  is  a  delightful  promenade 
during  the  summer  months,  and  is  a  place  of  general 


BOSTON. 


383 


resort.  In  iho  ccntro  of  the  Common  is  an  eminence 
«till  exhibiting  marks  of  the  fortification  erected  by  the 
British  hero  during  the  revolution  ;  north  of  which  is 
the  Crescent  Pond,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surround- 
ed with  trees.  Near  the  Mall,  in  Mason  street,  is  tho 
Medical  college,  an  edifice  belonging  to  tlie  Harvard 
University,  surmounted  by  a  dome  with  a  sky-light  and 
balustrade. 

The  Boston  »/Ilheneum  is  located  near  tho  head  of 
Pearl  street,  and  is  a  very  spacious  building,  containing 
appropriate  rooms.  The  number  of  volumes  attached 
to  the  institution  is  about  35,000.  It  also  contains  near- 
ly 14,000  medals  and  coins,  some  of  which  are  very  rare 
and  interesting.  The  rooms  are  open  from  S  A.  M.  to 
9  P.  M.  and  can  be  visited  by  strangers  introduced  by 
subscribers. 

The  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts  is  a  handsome  structure  in 
the  rear  of  the  Athcneum,  and  is  appropriated  fur  sci- 
entific lectures,  the  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  tho 
Massachusetts  Medical  Library,  a  philosophical  appa- 
ratus of  the  Mechanic  Institution,  and  for  paintings  ^ 
the  latter  of  which  are  exhibited  in  the  upper  story,  and 
are  generally  very  elegant. 

Among  the  other  literary  institutions  in  the  city  are 
the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society^  who  have  an  ex- 
tensive library  in  a  spacious  apartment  over  the  arch  in 
Franklin  street ;  the  Boston  Library  Society ^  who  have 
a  collection  of  8000  volumes  ;  and  the  Columbian  Li" 
hrary^  which  contains  about  4500  volumes.  There  are 
also  numerous  other  libraries  of  less  note.  Among  the 
benevolent  institutions  are  the  House  of  Industry  at 
South  Boston,  of  rough  dimension  stone,  220  feet  long, 

HU2 


384 


BOSTON. 


and  43  wide;  the  Massachusetts  General  Hospital, 
founded  in  1818,  which  has  been  richly  endowed  by  the 
state  and  individuals ;  the  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary  ;  a 
Hospital  for  the  Insane,  the  buildings  of  which  are  at 
Gharlestown  ;  the  New  England  Institute  for  the  Edu- 
cation of  the  Blind,  situated  in  Pearl  street,  and  richly 
endowed  by  Col.  Perkins  and  the  munificence  of  the 
state ;  and  the  Farm  School  for  boys,  on  Thompson's 
Island. 

The  first  houses  built  in  the  city  were  plain,  and  the 
streets  narrow  and  crooked ;  but  a  few  years  have 
wrought  a  striking  and  almost  incredible  change ;  new 
streets  have  been  laid  out,  old  ones  straightened  and 
improved,  and  neat  brick  and  granite  dwellings  have 
been  substituted  for  the  ill-shapen  and  decaying  houses 
of  wood.  The  private  buildings,  and  many  of  the 
stores  recently  erected,  are  more  splendid  than  in  any 
other  city  of  the  United  States.  In  1817,  there  was 
erected  on  each  side  of  Comhill,  a  block  of  brick 
stores  more  than  400  feet  in  length,  and  4  stories  high ; 
and  on  Central  Wharf  another  immense  pile  of  build- 
ings was  completed  the  same  year,  1240  feet  long,  con- 
taining 54  stores  4  stories  high,  having  a  spacious  hall 
in  the  centre,  over  which  is  erected  an  elegant  obser- 
vatory. Other  costly  works  have  been  constructed 
w^hich  do  honor  to  the  town  j  but  the  project  which  ex- 
ceeded them  all  in  boldness  of  design,  in  promise  of 
public  benefit,  and  in  energy  of  execution,  is  that  which 
within  a  few  years  has  been  accomplished  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  Fanueil  Hall  Market.  The  extensive  rows 
of  granite  stores,  four  stories  high,  constructed  after 
the  best  model,  bound  this  newly  perfected  enterprise. 


BOSTON. 


38S 


lospital, 
;d  by  the 
mary ;  a 
:h  are  at 
the  Edu- 
nd  richly 
,ce  of  the 
ompson's 

,  and  the 
3ars  have 
ige;  new 
ened  and 
ngs  have 
ng  houses 
,ny  of  the 
m  in  any 
here  was 
of  brick 
ries  high ; 
i  of  build- 
]ong,  con- 
pious  hall 
Int  obser- 
[nstructed 
irhich  ex- 
romise  of 
lat  which 
in  the  vi- 
tive  rows 
tted  after 
iterprise. 


Between  these  two  ranges  of  stores  stands  the  new 
Market  House,  at  the  distance  of  102  feet  from  those 
on  the  south  side,  and  65  feet  from  the  north.  The 
centre  part  of  the  building  is  74  by  55  feet,  having  a 
hall  in  the  second  story.  The  wings  are  each  231  feet 
long  by  50  wide,  and  2  stories  high.  They  have  each 
a  portico  of  four  columns,  23  feet  high ;  the  shafts  of 
granite  in  a  single  piece.  The  construction  of  the  whole 
is  of  hammered  granite  of  a  uniform  color. 

Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  State  House, 
which  is  built  on  elevated  ground,  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  containing  an 
elegant  statue  of  Washington,  which  cost  $15,000;  the 
County  Court  House,  built  of  stone  at  an  expense  of 
092,000 ;  the  municipal  Court  House ;  a  stone  Jail ; 
Fanueil  Hall,  where  all  public  meetings  of  the  citizens 
are  held ;  three  Theatres,  one  of  which  (the  Tremont) 
was  erected  in  1827,  at  a  cost  of  about  $120,000,  being 
135  feet  in  length  and  about  80  in  breadth,  the  front 
of  Hallowell  and  Cluincy  granite,  in  imitation  of  the 
Ionic  order,  with  four  pilasters  supporting  an  entabla- 
ture and  pediment,  and  elevated  on  a  basement  of  17 
feet ;  the  Custom  House,  City  Hall,  Masonic  Temple, 
ISoylston  Market  and  Boylston  Hall ;  Congress,  Amory, 
Artist's  Gallery,  Concert,  Corinthian,  Pantheon,  Wash- 
ington and  Chauncey  Halls. 

Bridges, — ^There  are  seven  bridges  connecting  Boston 
with  the  adjacent  towns.  Charles  River  Bridge,  which 
connects  it  with  Charlestown  on  the  North,  1503  feet 
long ;  Warren  free  bridge,  nearly  parallel  with  the  for- 
mer, and  also  running  to  Charlestown,  1420  feet  long, 
on  piers  and  Macadamized ;  West  Boston  Bridge,  con- 


386 


BOSTON. 


necting  it  with  Cambridge  Port  on  the  west,  7810  feet 
long;  Cragie's  Canal  bridge,  between  the  last  two, 
connecting  it  with  Lechmere  Point,  2796  feet  long ;  and 
two  free  bridges  uniting  it  to  South  Boston.  The  other 
avenue  is  a  mill  dam,  nearly  two  miles  long  and  fifty 
feet  wide,  across  the  bay  on  the  southwest  side  of  the 
city .;  which  not  only  furnishes  a  bridge,  but  puts  in  op- 
eration extensive  tide-mills  and  other  water  works. 
This  dam  was  built  in  1823-4,  and  cost  upwards  of 
$600,000.  There  is  a  branch  from  Craige's  bridge  also, 
which  runs  to  Charlestown  Point,  near  the  Massachu- 
setts state  prison. 

Churches. — ^There  are  rising  of  50  churches  in  Boston, 
many  of  which  have  been  built  at  great  expense,  and 
are  very  elegant.  On  one  of  the  quoins  at  the  south- 
west corner  of  the  Bratlle  s^-.et  church,  of  which  Gov. 
Hancock  was  a  benefactor,  his  name  had  been  inscrib- 
ed ;  but  it  was  effaced  by  the  British  soldiery  during 
the  revolution,  and  the  stone  has  been  permitted  to  re- 
main as  they  left  it.  A  shot  from  the  Americans  on 
the  night  previous  to  the  evacuation  of  Boston  by  the 
British,  still  remains  in  the  tower  where  it  originally 
struck.  In  St.  Paul's  church,  in  Tremont  street,  there 
is  an  elegant  monument  to  the  memory  of  Gen.  War- 
ren, who  was  slain  on  Bunker  Hill,  and  whose  remains 
are  entombed  in  the  cemetry  beneath  this  church. 

Burial  Grounds. — In  the  Chapel  burial  ground,  north 
of  the  stone  chapel,  there  are  several  ancient  monu- 
ments ;  and  among  others  that  of  Gov.  Winthrop,  who 
died  in  1649.  In  the  Copp^s  Hill  ground  similar  me- 
mentoes of  antiquity  are  found.  In  the  Cr )*anart/ ground, 
the  cenotaph  erected  to  the  memory  of  Doct.  Franklin 


10  feet 
it  two, 
g;and 
e  other 
id  fifty 
!  of  the 
3  in  op- 
works. 
;ards  of 
ge  also, 
ssachu- 

Boston, 
ise,  and 
e  south- 
ich  Gov. 
inscrib- 
during 
Id  to  re- 
lans  on 
by  the 
ginally 
t,  there 
War- 
cmains 

north 

monu- 

)p,  who 

[ar  me- 

ijround, 

ranklin 


BOSTON. 


387 


stands  over  the  tomb,  in  which  repose  the  remains  of 
both  his  parents.  The  tombs  of  Governors  Bellingham, 
Sumner  and  Sullivan  are  also  in  this  grouud. 

The  J^tO'England  Museunit  in  Court  street,  is  prob- 
ably the  best  in  the  United  States,  containing  60,000 
curiosities,  and  should  be  visited  by  every  stranger  be- 
fore leaving  the  city. 

Hotels, — Tremont  House  is  the  most  superb  hotel  in 
Boston,  and  not  inferior  to  any  in  the  Union.  It  is 
three  stories  high  in  front  and  four  on  the  wings,  ex- 
clusive of  the  basement.  The  front  and  two  circular 
ends  facing  Beacon  street,  and  the  open  ground  south 
of  the  building,  are  of  Cluincy  granite,  and  surmounted 
by  an  entablature,  supported  by  antes  at  each  extrem- 
ity. The  portico,  which  is  of  the  same  material,  is  37 
feet  long  by  7  feet  in  width,  and  25  feet  high.  Four 
fluted  columns  support  the  roof  of  the  portico,  the  pro- 
portions of  which  are  copied  from  those  of  the  Doric 
portico  at  Athens,  with  the  exception  that  the  portico 
of  the  Tremont  House  di-triglyph,  the  inter  columnia* 
tions  being  nearly  equal.  The  whole  number  of  rooms 
is  one  hundred  and  eighty ;  and  the  principal  entrance 
is  nearly  opposite  the  Tremont  theatre.  From  the  top 
of  this  structure,  an  extensive  and  beautiful  landscape, 
comprising  a  view  of  the  harbor  and  the  amphitheatre 
of  hills  to  the  west,  and  of  the  towns  of  Charlestown 
and  Chelsea  to  the  north,  presents  itself. 

The  next  hotel  in  extent  is  the  American  House,  in 
Hanover  street,  erected  in  1S35,  and  beautifully  fitted 
up  in  the  most  modern  style.  It  is  kept  by  A.  M. 
Brigham  ;  is  lighted  throughout  with  gas,  and  in  point 
of  reputation  will  compare  with  any  house  in  the  coun- 


SS9 


BOSTON. 


try.  The  New-England  Coffee  House,  by  Colinan,  is 
a  popular  establishment ;  the  Pearl  street  House,  built 
in  1836,  is  a  spacious  hotel ;  then  there  arc  Iho  Ex- 
change Coffee  House,  Bromfield  House,  Lafayette  Ho- 
tel, Marlboro'  Hotel,  Franklin  House,  Hanover  House, 
Commercial  Coffee  House,  City  Tavern,  Blackstono 
House,  National  House,  the  Maverick  House  at  East 
Boston  and  the  Mount  Washington  House  at  South 
Boston.  The  Shawmut  Ho^ae,  in  Hanover  street, 
opened  in  1837,  by  Gould  and  Rice,  is  conducted  on 
the  European  plan,  and  is  the  most  elegant  establish- 
ment of  the  kind  in  the  country ;  the  Albion  and  How- 
ard street  House  are  conducted  in  the  same  way. 

The  Hancock  House^  the  former  residence  of  Gov. 
Hancock,  is  still  in  good  preservation  in  Beacon  street, 
near  the  state  house.  There  are  also  several  ancient 
buildings  in  the  vicinity  of  Ann  street  and  Market 
square ;  in  one  of  which,  opposite  the  Golden  Key,  a 
relative  of  Doct.  Franklin  formerly  resided,  to  whom  he 
was  in  the  habit  of  paying  frequent  visits. 

Notwithstanding  the  immense  travel  on  the  three 
rail  roads,  the  number  of  stage  coaches  which  regular- 
ly leave  Boston  is  much  larger  than  that  of  any  other 
place  in  the  Union.  There  are  between  eighty  and 
ninety  distinct  lines  of  stages ;  which,  according  to 
their  established  arrangements,  not  including  extras, 
make  about  125  departures  and  as  many  arrivr^ls  daily, 
or  more  than  1500  departures  and  arrivals  each  week. 
For  the  benefit  of  public  houses  and  travellers,  a  Stage 
"Register  is  published,  once  in  two  months,  by  Messrs* 
Badger  and  Porter,  at  the  office  of  the  American  Trav- 
eller, No.  47,  Court  street,  containing  an  account  of 


Imnn,  is 
se,  built 
Iho  Ex- 
ctte  Ho- 
f  House, 
ickatono 
3  at  East 
at  South 
ir  street, 
acted  on 
jstablish- 
ndHow- 

ay. 

!  of  Gov. 
on  street, 
il  ancient 
1  Market 
n  Key,  a 
whom  he 

the  three 
I  regular- 
my  other 
ghty  and 
►rding  to 
extras, 
ais  daily, 
;h  week. 
a  Stage 
Messrs* 
U  Trav- 
count  of 


1^" 


VAST  BOSTON. 


399 


the  principal  lines  of  stages,  steam  boats,  rail  roads  anci 
canal  packets  in  New-England  and  New- York, 

The  country  around  Boston  is  the  admiration  of  eve- 
ry traveller  of  taste.  The  view  from  the  dome  of  the 
state  house  surpasses  any  thing  of  the  kind  in  this  comi' 
try,  and  is  not  excelled  by  that  from  the  castle  hill  of 
Edinburgh,  or  that  of  the  Bay  of  Naples  from  the  cas- 
tle of  St.  Elmo.  Here  may  be  seen  at  one  view,  the 
shipping,  the  harbor,  variegated  with  islands  and  alive 
with  business  j  Charles  river  and  its  beautiful  country^ 
ornamented  with  elegant  private  mansions ;  and  more 
tlian  twenty  flourishing  towns.  The  hills  are  finely 
cultivated,  and  rounded  by  the  hand  of  nature  wltli 
singular  felicity. 

East  Boston  is  a  new  part  of  the  city,  recently  built 
on  what  was  formerly  called  Noddle's  Island,  a  tract 
nearly  as  large  as  the  peninsula  of  Boston.  The  isl- 
and, like  *'  Winnisimmet,"  in  Chelsea,  has  grown  up 
under  the  management  of  an  incorporated  company. 
In  1830  there  was  but  one  house  on  the  island  ;  since 
which  it  has  been  laid  out  into  lots  and  streets ;  many 
handsome  dwelUngs  have  been  erected,  and  the  place 
now  contains  several  hundred  inhabitants.  There  aro 
three  steam  boats  on  the  ferry  connecting  it  with  the 
city,  which  ply  constantly  from  morning  till  midnight. 
The  Maverick  House,  located  here,  keipi  by  Maj.  Bar- 
ton, is  a  large  and  well  conducted  hotel.  The  Eastern 
rail  road,  now  in  progress,  terminates  here.  The  most 
extensive  sugar  refinery  in  the  country,  of  brick,  seven 
stories  high,  is  erected  near  the  ferry  landing.    Here  is 


:  LiiLv 


390 


IIOUKT  AUBURN — <IKINCT. 


also  a  large  malleable  Cast  Iron  Foundry,  and  a  busy 
ship  yard. 

MouKT  Auburn.  Every  traveller  of  taste  should 
visit  the  new  cemetry  at  Mount  Auburn,  in  Cambridge, 
5  miles  from  Boston.  It  is  the  pere  la  chaise  of  this 
country,  and  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most  delightful 
spots  ever  selected  for  the  repose  of  the  dead.  The 
grounds  are  very  extensive,  comprising  every  variety  of 
hill  and  dale,  covered  with  trees  and  shrubbery  of  al- 
most every  kind.  There  are  numerous  "  avenues"  for 
carriages,  and  **  paths"  for  pedestrians,  designated  by 
botanical  names.  The  interments  as  yet  have  not  been 
numerous ;  though  the  lots  are  all  laid  out,  and  many  of 
them  finished.  Miss  Hannah  Adams,  the  historian  of 
the  Jews,  was  the  first  tenant  of  Mount  Auburn.  She 
died  in  December,  1831.  Nature  made  this  retreat  ro* 
mantic — art  has  rendered  it  beautiful, — the  Creator 
formed  it  lovely — man  has  made  it  sacred ! 

Q.U1NCT,  which  is  distinguished  for  having  furnished 
two  Presidents  of  the  United  States,  is  10  miles  from 
Boston,  in  a  southerly  direction.  About  half  a  mile 
northwest  of  the  village  is  the  mansion  of  the  late  John 
Adams,  the  second  president.  His  remains  and  those 
of  his  wife  reposee  beneath  the  new  church  at  Ctuincy, 
within  which  a  handsome  monument  to  their  memory 
has  been  erected  by  his  eon,  John  Ctuincy  Adams, 
with  a  suitable  inscription. 

The  south  west  part  of  the  town  is  mostly  composed 
of  inexhaustible  beds  of  granite,  for  the  transportation 
of  which  a  eail  road  has  been  constructed  firoiQ  the 


%  busy 


should 
bridge, 
of  this 
lightful 
I.    The 
metyof 
y  of  al- 
lies" for 
atcd  by 
lot  been 
many  of 
;orian  of 
n.    She 
treat  ro- 
Creator 


iposed 
>rtation 
)m  the 


DORCHESTER — BRIGHTON. 


391 


ueds  to  tide  water,  3  miles  long.  This  was  the  first 
rail  road  made  in  the  country.  For  a  great  part  of 
the  distance  it  is  on  an  inclination  of  one  and  a  half 
inch  to  the  rod,  and  the  ordinary  load  drawn  by  a  horse 
is  between  8  and  9  tons.  It  will  be  found  an  object 
worthy  the  attention  of  strangers. 

Dorchester,  is  an  ancient  town,  about  4|  miles 
south  of  Boston,  having  been  settled  in  1630,  soon  after 
Plymouth  and  Salem.  The  roads  are  numerous  and 
crooked,  but  mostly  level  and  kept  in  good  repair.  Ma- 
ny fine  country  seats  and  substantial  farm  houses  are 
thickly  arranged  on  their  sides.  They  have  a  town  house, 
three  congregational  churches,  and  one  for  methodists. 
The  population  is  about  4000.  The  peninsula,  called 
Dorchester  Neck,  borders  on  Boston  harbor,  and  a  part 
of  it  is  incorporated  with  the  town  of  Boston.  Savin 
Hill,  in  this  town,  is  a  place  of  considerable  resort,  and 
the  peninsula  of  Squantum  is  famous  for  its  yearly  feast 
of  shells.  On  the  4th  of  March,  1776, 1200  men,  sent 
by  Gen.  Washington,  threw  up  works  on  Dorchester 
heights  in  the  night,  which  commanded  Boston  harbor 
and  drove  the  British  army  away.  Traces  of  these 
works  still  remain. 

Brighton,  5  miles  west  of  Boston,  was  formerly  a 
part  of  Cambridge,  and  lies  between  that  place  and 
Brookline.  Here  is  held  the  famous  Cattle  Fair  and 
mart,  which  was  commenced  during  the  revolutionary 
war,  and  has  been  increasing*  in  importance  ever  since. 
Most  of  the  cattle  for  the  supply  of  the  Boston  market 
are  brought  in  droves  to  this  place ;  ofleu  irom  2  to 

II 


S99 


WATBRTOWM— CIIARLBITOWN. 


3000  a  week ;  «vory  Monday  ii  tho  fair  day,  when  Uie 
dealers  resort  thither  to  make  their  purchased. 

Watirtown  is  on  Charles  river,  7  miles  northwest 
from  Roston,  and  is  tho  seat  of  sovoral  extensive  manu- 
facturing establishments.  Tho  provincial  congress  sat 
hero  in  1775,  and  woro  in  scsHion  during  the  battle  of 
Bunker  Hill.  Tho  United  States  have  an  Arsenal  es- 
tablished in  this  town.  Fresh  Pond,  ono  of  the  most 
enchanting  retreats  in  the  vicinity  of  the  metropolis, 
hes  partly  in  this  town  and  partly  in  Cambridge. 

Cambridge,  S  miles  west  of  Boston.    {Seep.  361.) 

Charlsstown,  is  a  place  of  singular  shopc,  extend* 
ing  in  a  northwesterly  direction  from  Boston  harbor, 
about  9  miles  in  length,  and  not  averaging  a  breadth  of 
one  mile,  and  in  some  parts  it  is  not  a  quarter  of  a  milo 
wide.  The  compact  part  of  the  town  is  situated  on  a 
peninsula  next  to  Boston,  and  is  laid  out  in  regular 
streets.  Charlestown  contains  a  population  of  near 
9000.  It  has  five  houses  for  public  worship,  threo 
banks,  a  spacious  alms  house,  and  a  handsome  town 
hall  and  market  house.  Besides  Charles  Uiver,  War- 
ren and  Prison  Point  brid|fes,  which  connect  this  town 
with  Boston,  there  is  Chelsea  bridge  on  tho  Salem 
turnpike,  and  Maiden  bridge,  both  over  tho  Mystic  riv- 
er. Breed's  Hill  and  Bunker's  Hill  both  lie  within 
this  peninsula ;  the  former  is  62  feet  in  height,  the  lat- 
ter 1 10  feet  The  U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  in  this  town,  con- 
sists of  about  60  acres  of  land,  on  which  are  built  a 
large  brick  ware  house,  several  arsenals,  magazines 
for  various  kinds  of  storesi  ropewalk,  and  a  large  brick 


briccd'm  iriLt. 


303 


mnnsion  Iiouia  for  tho  iiupnrintonding  ofl\cer.  Tht 
Dry  Dock  in  thin  yard,  is  tho  tincnt  in  tho  United  Statcf . 
ItA  coNt  han  bo«n  about  hulf  a  inilHon  of  dollars.  Tho 
State  Prison  is  at  tho  wost  ond  of  tho  town  and  is  built 
ofgrnnito,  '200  {'cvX  by  41,  of  5  Htorios.  Extonsivo  addi- 
tions to  tho  hiiildinpH  wero  mndo  in  1827,  on  tho  Auburn 
phm,  at  an  ox|>(miho  of  $8(»,000.  Tho  Massachusotta 
Insano  ll(>K|>ital  is  doIiKhtfuUy  situated  upon  Pleasant 
}Iill,  on  tho  west  sido  of  the  town.  On  Mount  llcne- 
dict,  about  2^  miles  from  Boston,  commanding  one  of 
tho  most  rich  and  variegated  prospects  in  tho  United 
States,  are  to  bo  seen  the  ruins  of  tho  Ursulino  Con- 
vent, burnt  in  tho  night  by  a  mob  in  1835. 

Hrrrd^s  f  Iill  is  situated  one  fourth  of  a  mile  north- 
oast  of  the  village  of  Charlcstown,  and  affords  a  pleas- 
ant prospect  of  Boston,  (2  miles  distant,)  tho  harbor, 
Cambridge  and  its  colleges,  and  of  an  extensive  tract 
of  highly  cultivated  country. 

In  the  month  of  May,  after  tho  battlo  of  Lexington, 
it  wns  conjectured  from  tho  movements  of  the  British 
army  that  Qon.  Qago  intended  to  penetrate  into  the 
country.  It  was  accordingly  decided  by  the  provincial 
congress  to  attempt  a  defence  of  Dorchester  Neck,  and 
to  occupy  Bunker's  Hill,  just  within  tho  Peninsula  on 
which  Charlcstown  stands.  A  detachment  of  1000 
men,  under  Col.  Prescott,  proceeded  to  execute  these 
orders  ;  but  by  some  mistake,  Breed's  Hill,  situated  on 
tho  farther  part  of  the  peninsula,  was  selected  for  tho 
proposed  entrenchments. 

Tho  party  under  Col.  Prescott  proceeded  in  their 
work  with  so  much  diligence  and  secrecy,  that  by  tho 
dawn  of  day,  thoy  had  thrown  up  a  square  redoubt  of 


..ti. 


394 


BREED'S  RILL. 


1 1 


about  forty  yards  on  each  side.  Day  light  discovered 
this  new  work  to  the  British,  and  a  heavy  cannonade 
was  commenced  upon  it  from  the  shipping  in  the  river. 
The  fire  was  borne  with  firmness  by  the  Americans, 
and  did  not  prevent  them  from  soon  constructing  a 
breast  work,  which  extended  from  the  redoubt  to  the 
bottom  of  the  hill. 

*^  As  this  eminence  overlooked  Boston,  Gen.  Gage 
thought  it  necessary  to  drive  the  provincials  from  iL 
To  efllect  this  object,  he  detached  Major  Gen.  Howe 
And  Brigadier  General  Pigot,  at  the  head  of  ten  com- 
panies of  grenadiers  and  the  same  number  of  light  in- 
fantry, with  a  proper  proportion  of  field  artillery. 
These  troops  landed  at  Moreton's  Point,  where  they 
immediately  formed ;  but  perceiving  the  Americans  to 
wait  for  them  with  firmness,  they  remained  on  their 
ground  until  the  success  of  the  enterprise  should  be 
rendered  secure  by  the  arrival  of  a  reinforcement  from 
Boston,  for  which  Gen.  Howe  had  applied.  During 
this  interval  the  Americans  also  were  reinforced  by  a 
body  of  their  countrymen,  led  by  Generals  Warren 
and  Pomeroy ;  and  they  availed  themselves  of  this  de- 
lay to  increase  their  security,  by  pulling  up  some  ad- 
joining post  and  rail  fences,  and  arranging  them  in  two 
parallel  lines  at  a  small  distance  from  each  other ;  the 
apace  between  which  they  filled  up  with  hay,  so  as  to 
form  a  complete  cover  from  the  musketry  of  the  en- 
emy. 

"  On  being  joined  by  their  second  detachment,  the 
British  troops,  who  were  formed  in  two  lines,  advanced 
slowly  undercover  of  a  very  heavy  discharge  of  cannon 
and  howitzers,  frequently  halting  in  order  to  allow  their 


scovered 
nnonade 
;he  river, 
ncricans, 
ructing  a 
3t  to  the 

sn.  Gage 
3  from  it. 
m.  Howe 
ten  com- 
i"  light  in- 
artillery. 
tiere  they 
ericans  to 
on  their 
(hould  be 
lent  from 
During 
reed  by  a 
Warren 
f  this  de- 
lome  ad- 
intwo 
^  the 
30  as  to 
the  en- 

^ent,  the 
Ivanced 
cannon 
)W  their 


ler 


BREED'S  HILL. 


395 


mrtlUery  time  to  demoUsh  the  works.  While  they  were 
advancing,  orders  were  given  to  set  fire  to  Charlestown, 
a  handsome  village  containing  about  500  houses,  which 
flanked  thoir  line  of  march.  The  buildings  were  chief- 
ly of  wood,  and  the  flames  were  quickly  communicated 
so  extensively,  that  almost  the  whole  town  was  in  one 
great  bfozo. 

"It  k  not  easy  to  conceive  a  more  grand  and  a  more 
awful  spectacle  than  was  now  exhibited ;  nor  a  mo- 
ment of  more  anxious  expectation  than  that  which  was 
now  presented.  The  scene  of  action  was  in  full  view 
of  the  heights  of  Boston  and  of  its  neighborhood,  which 
vere  covered  with  spectators  taking  deep  and  opposite 
iiterests  in  the  events  passing  before  them.  The  sol- 
<iiers  of  the  two  hostile  armies  not  on  duty,  the  citizens 
*f  Boston  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  country, 
4II  feeling  emotions  which  set  description  at  defiance, 
were  witnesses  of  the  majestic  and  tremendous  scene. 

"  The  provincials  permitted  the  enemy  to  approach 
unmolested  within  less  than  one  hundred  yards  of  their 
works,  when  they  poured  in  upon  them  so  deadly  a  fire 
of  small  arms,  that  the  British  line  was  totally  broken, 
and  fell  back  with  precipitation  towards  the  landing 
place.  By  the  very  great  exertions  of  their  officers, 
they  were  rallied  and  brought  up  to  the  charge,  but 
were  again  driven  back  in  confusion  by  the  heavy  and 
incessant  fire  from  the  works.  General  Howe  is  said 
to  have  been  lefl  at  one  time  almost  alone,  and  it  is 
certain  that  very  few  ofHcers  about  his  person  escaped 
unhurt. 

"  The  impression  to  be  made  by  victory  or  defeat,  in 
this  early  stage  of  the  war,  was  deemed  of  the  utmost 

ii2 


396 


BREED^S  HILL. 


consequence;  and  therefore  very  extraordinaiy  exer* 
tions  were  made  once  more  to  rally  the  English.  With 
great  difficulty,  they  were  a  third  time  led  up  to  the 
works.  The  redoubt  was  now  attacked  on  thne  sidccr 
at  once,  while  some  pieces  of  artillery,  which  hod  been 
brought  to  bear  on  the  breast  work,  raked  it  fron  end 
to  end.  The  cross  fire  too,  from  the  ships  and  fbatinp^ 
batteries,  not  only  annoyed  the  works  on  Breed*!  HiH, 
but  deterred  any  considerable  reinforcements from*>i,-?- 
ing  into  the  peninsula  and  coming  to  their  aF^iistince. 
The  ammunition  of  the  Americans  was  now  so  nearly 
cxhauated,  that  they  were  no  longer  able  to  keep  up  the 
same  incessant  stream  of  fire,  which  had  twice  repuls- 
ed the  enemy  ;  and  on  this  third  attempt,  the  redoubt, 
the  walls  of  which  the  English  mounted  with  ease,  wos 
carried  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet.  Yet  the  Ameri- 
cans, many  of  w!iom  were  without  bayonets,  are  said 
to  have  maintained  the  contest  with  clubbed  muskets, 
until  the  redoubt  was  half  filled  with  the  king^s  troops. 

"The  redoubt  being  lost,  the  breastwork  which  had 
been  defended  with  equal  courage  and  obstinacy,  was 
necessarily  abandoned ;  and  the  very  hazardous  ope- 
ration undertaken,  of  retreating  in  the  face  of  a  victori- 
ous enemy,  over  Chariest© wn  neck  ;  where  they  were 
exposed  to  the  same  cross  fire  from  i;ic  'Jlc^gow  man 
of  war  and  two  floating  batteries,  'A ^u'  '  '  deteri  * 
the  reinforcements  ordered  to  theiv  aid  irom  coming  to 
their  assistance,  and  had  probably  prevented  their  re- 
ceiving proper  supplies  of  ammunition." 

The  number  of  British  troops  engaged  in  this  action 
was  about  3000,  and  their  loss  in  killed  and  wounded 
WM  1050.    The  American  force  has  been  variously 


^ 


ly  exer- 
I.  With 
pto  the 
rte  sides 
lod  been 
Van  end 
(bating 
id'j  Hill, 

3istince. 
o  ntarly 
3p  up  the 
e  repuls- 
rcdoubt, 
lasc,  was 
e  Ameri- 
are  said 
nuskets, 
s  troops, 
lich  had 
■cy,  was 
us  ope- 
victori- 
|ey  were 
iw  man 
eten   * 
ling  to 
oir  re- 
action 
)unded 
Iriously 


CniLSRA. 


397 


stated  from  1500  to  4000;  and  their  losi,  if)  killed, 
wounded  and  missing,  amounted  to  450.  General 
Warren  was  among  the  number  of  the  slain,  and  a 
handsome  monument  now  marks  the  spot  where  he 
i-"]!.  The  spot  of  ground  on  which  this  monument 
-  ands,  was  recently  purchased  by  Dr.  J.  C.  Warren,  of 
Boston,  a  nephew  of  the  lamented  General,  for  the  pur- 
pose, it  is  said,  of  preserving  uninjured  the  few  remain- 
ing traces  of  the  memorable  battle  of '75. 

The  corner  stone  of  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument, 
on  Breed's  Hill,  was  laid  on  the  15th  of  June,  1^25  : 
on  which  occasion  the  Marquis  La  Fayette  was  pres- 
ent. The  depth,  however,  proving  insufficient,  tne 
foundation  was  subsquently  re-laid ;  and  the  work  has 
since  progressed  about  80  feet  from  the  foundation. 
The  Cluincy  granite  is  used  for  its  structure.  Its  base 
is  50  feet  in  diameter,  and  its  height  is  to  be  220  feet. 

Chelsea  is  situated  about  three  miles  north-east  of 
Boston,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mystic  river.  The  surface 
of  the  town  is  broken  into  several  beautiful  eminences, 
the  highest  of  which  is  Richmond  Hill,  known  in  the 
period  of  the  revolution  as  Powder  House  Hill ;  its 
height  is  220  feet  above  the  sea.  Mount  Bellingham  is 
another  eminence  of  gradual  slope  ;  it  is  laid  out  into 
streets,  and  affoids  delightful  building  lots  over  its  whole 
surface.  Chelsea  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in 
the  vicinity  of  Boston  ;  and  is  now  the  only  one  which 
remains  connected  with  the  city  to  form  the  county  of 
Suffolk.  The  principal  communication  with  the  city  is 
by  thf  Chelsea  bridge,  through  Charlestown,  and  by 
the  Winnissimmet  ferry,  wliich  usually  has  thiee  steam 


398 


NAHANT. 


boats  constantly  plying.  At  the  ferry  landing,  Winnis- 
eimmet  village  has  grown  up  within  a  few  years,  and 
is  now  the  moat  thickly  settled  part  of  the  town.  Here 
are  situated  the  U,  S.  Marine  Hospital  and  the  U.  S. 
Navy  Hospital.  The  Chelsea  Bank  was  established 
here  in  1836  ;  but  owing  to  the  mismanagement  of  its 
directors,  its  doors  were  closed  and  its  charter  repealed 
in  1S37.  Chelsea  Beach  is  a  great  attraction  to  stran- 
gers during  the  summer  season. 

Fort  Independence  is  situated  on  an  island  at  the 
outlet  of  Boston  harbor,  3  miles  distant ;  opposite  to 
which  is  Governor's  Island,  containing  a  fort  erected 
during  the  late  war.  These  two  forts  command  the 
entrance  into  the  harbor  of  Boston.  Seven  or  eight 
miles  belov  Is  the  light  house,  at  the  north-east  extrem- 
ity of  the  channel,  where  vessels  enter  the  Atlantic. 


NAHANT, 

Is  a  peninsula  running  three  or  four  miles  into  the 
sea,  and  is  situated  fifteen  miles  north-easterly  from 
Boston,  It  is  approached  from  the  town  of  Lynn  over 
a  beautiful  beach  of  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  At 
the  extremity  of  this  beach  commences  the  peninsula, 
which  is  about  two  miles  in  length,  and  in  some  parts 
half  a  mile  broad,  although  its  shores  are  extremely 
irregular,  and  indented  with  small  bays  worn  into  the 
rocks  by  the  unceasing  action  of  the  waves. 

The  surface  is  uneven,  rising  in  some  places  to  the 
elevation  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  shore  is  very  bold,  and  presents,  on  all 
sides,  a  grand  enbankment  of  broken  massy  rocks. 
At  several  points  these  rocks  are  worn  into  fantastic 


I 


Hnnis- 
*g,  and 
.  Here 
,  U.S. 
blished 
t  of  its 
epealed 
)  Btran- 


at  the 
osite  to 
erected 
and  the 
or  eight 
extrem- 
intic. 


Into  the 

ly  from 

inn  over 

kh.    At 

[insula. 

le  parts 

;remely 

ito  the 

to  the 

level  of 

on  all 

rocks. 

Lntastic 


NAHANT. 


399 


shapes,  and  at  the  time  of  high  tide,  or  a  swell  of  the 
sea,  the  roar  and  foam  of  the  waters  among  them  pre- 
sents a  most  interesting  spectacle,  which  is  contempla- 
ted by  the  quiet  observer,  seated  on  the  summit  above, 
with  awe  and  admiration.  The  whole  expanse  of  the 
ocean  spreads  out  towards  the  east,  and  after  a  storm, 
the  rolling  waves  come  pouring  in  their  immense  bur- 
den upon  these  rocks,  with  such  a  power,  sublimity 
and  uproar  of  contending  elements,  as  can  hardly  be 
conceived  by  any  one  who  has  not  witnessed  the 
scene.  And  again  when  the  sea  is  tranquil,  it  may 
be  seen  covered  with  shipping  of  all  sizes,  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  extend,  moving  in  different  directions  up  and 
down  the  coast,  and  exhibiting  an  animating  picture  of 
the  industry  and  activity  of  commerce.  In  short,  for 
picturesque  beauty  and  sublimity  of  scenery,  as  well  as 
for  the  many  advantages  arising  from  its  peculiar  local 
situation,  this  place  is  not  surpassed  by  any  on  the 
coast. 

Besides  a  view  of  the  ocean,  Nahant  presents  a  great 
i?ariety  of  other  interesting  prospects.  On  one  side  is 
seen  the  village  of  Lynn,  Swanscut,  Phillips*  Beach, 
Marblehead,  Egg  Rock,  Baker's  Island,  and  the  north 
shore  as  far  as  the  highland  of  Cape  Ann ;  on  the  oth- 
er, Charlestown,  Boston,  the  islands  in  Boston  harbor, 
part  of  Dorchester,  Braintree,  Nantucket  and  Scituate, 
with  the  light-houses  of  Boston,  Scituate  and  Baker's 
Island,  forming  together  a  panorama  hardly  to  be 
equalled  in  beauty  or  variety. 

The  peninsula  extends  farther  into  the  sea  than  any 
other  head  land  in  the  bay.  It  is  distant  from  the 
nearest  island  in  Boston  harbor,  to  the  south,  seven 


4j 

i'  1 


'■■%:■.. 


400 


KAHANT. 


miles — from  the  nearest  point  of  the  south  shore,  about 
twelve  miles— from  the  north  shore  between  two  and 
three  miles.  It  is  on  this  side  connected  with  the  main 
land  by  a  beach  a  few  rods  wide.  Thuik  insulated  and 
surrounded  by  water,  Nahant  enjoys  a  climate  and 
temperature  very  cool,  and,  comparatively,  very  equa- 
ble— a  circumstance  of  much  importance  to  the  invalid, 
And  which  will  determine  the  choice  of  a  great  portion 
of  those  who  anntially  leave  the  city  for  the  purpose  of 
health  or  amusement. 

Accommodations  for  visitors  have  lately  been  multi- 
plied and  greatly  improved.  A  spacious  and  elegant 
stone  edifice  has  been  erected  as  a  Hotel,  near  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  peninsula,  in  a  very  commanding  and 
pleasant  situation.  This  building  contains  70  cham- 
bers, constructed  on  a  plan  of  peculiar  convenience, 
both  for  families  and  single  persons.  In  1836,  an  ex- 
tensive w^ing  was  added,  containing  40  rooms  more. 
The  dining  hall  is  sufficiently  spacious  to  accommodate 
150  persons  at  table,  besides  which  there  are  drawing 
rooms  and  private  parlors.  Large  and  commodious 
stables  are  appended  to  the  Hotel,  and  a  bathing  house 
for  warm  and  cold  baths,  and  floating  baths  for  those 
who  may  prefer  the  bracing  action  of  sea-water,  make 
a  part  of  the  establishment.  The  Hotel  is  surrounded 
by  piazzas,  which  afford  a  most  delightful  prospect  in 
every  direction,  and  receive  the  cool  and  refreshing 
breezes  every  part  of  the  day.  In  a  small  village,  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  Hotel,  are  several  private 
boarding  houses,  where  every  accommodation  can  be 
had  for  invalids  and  for  those  who  seek  retirement. 


NABANT. 


401 


about 

0  and 
imain 
id  and 
,e  and 

equa- 
nvalid, 
lortion 
>OBe  of 

1  multi- 
jlegant 
the  ex- 
ng  and 

cham- 
jnience, 
an  ex- 
I  more, 
modate 
rawing 
odious 
house 
r  those 
make 
unded 
pect  in 
eshing 
lage,  a 
private 
can  be 
ement. 


Numerous  cottages,  too,  have  been  erected  by  several 
individuals  for  the  purpose  of  affording  more  extensive 
and  elegant  accommodations  to  those  who  may  pass 
the  summer  in  this  delightful  place  of  residence. 

Nahant  has  many  amusements.  Angling  with  the 
rod  may  be  enjoyed  as  a  pleasant  recreation,  standing 
on  the  rocks ;  and  those  who  would  try  their  skill  in 
decoying  larger  prey,  may  go  out  in  boats,  which  are 
always  in  readiness,  and  furnished  with  suitable  appa- 
ratus. Game,  too,  is  abundant  in  the  vicinity.  But 
there  are  few  amusements  or  pleasures  superior  to 
that  of  riding,  at  suitable  hours  of  the  day,  on  the 
beach. 

A  beautiful  building,  in  imitation  of  a  Grecian  tem- 
ple, has  been  erected  on  an  eminence,  near  the  Hotel, 
in  which  are  two  elegant  billiard  rooms.  There  are 
also  convenient  covered  bowhng  alleys,  and  such  other 
means  of  amusement  as  are  usually  connected  with 
the  most  extensive  and  elegant  establishments  at  wa- 
tering  places. 

On  the  whole,  the  proximity  of  Nahant  to  Boston — 
its  facility  of  access — the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  its 
scenery — and  above  all,  the  singular  local  advantages 
it  affords  for  invigorating  the  constitution,  the  salubrity 
and  bracing  tone  of  its  atmosphere,  and  the  excellent 
accommodations  it  offers  to  visitors — will  undoubtedly 
make  it  a  place  of  general  resort  during  the  summec 
months,  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States. 


/! 


402 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON, 

Erected  during  the  Revolvtion, 

The  fortifications  which  were  thrown  up  around  Bos* 
ton,  which  held  a  British  army  besieged  during  eleven 
months  of  the  revolution,  and  which  finally  compelled 
them  to  carry  their  arms  and  warfare  into  other  lands, 
will  always  be  regarded  as  objects  of  interest  by  every 
stranger  visiting  that  section  of  country.  Many  of 
these  works  are  still  in  fine  preservation,  while  others 
have  become  defaced  by  the  hand  of  time,  or  have  been 
removed  to  give  place  to  modern  improvements.  The 
following  description  of  those  remaining  is  extracted 
from  Silliman's  Journal,  and  will  prove  a  guide  to 
strangers  in  determining  their  localities. 

At  Breed^s  HiU,  that  blood-stained  field,  the  redoubt 
thrown  up  by  the  Americans  is  nearly  effaced ;  scarce- 
ly the  slightest  trace  of  its  remains ;  but  the  entrench- 
ment, which  extended  from  the  redoubt  to  the  marsh, 
is  still  marked  by  a  slight  elevation  of  the  ground.  The 
redoubt  thrown  up  by  the  British  on  the  summit  of  the 
hill,  may  be  easily  distinguished. 

Bunker  HiU.  The  remains  of  the  British  fort  are  tIs* 
ible ;  the  works  must  have  been  very  strong,  and  oc- 
cupied a  large  extent  of  ground — they  are  on  the  sum- 
mit and  slope  of  the  hill  looking  towards  the  peninsula. 

Ploughed  HUl,  The  works  upon  this  hill  were  com- 
menced by  the  Americans  on  the  night  of  August  26th, 
1775,  and  received  more  fire  from  the  British  than  any 
of  the  other  forts ;  in  a  few  days,  more  than  three  hun- 
dred shells  were  fired  at  these  fortifications.  A  small 
part  of  the  rampart  remains,  but  the  whole  hill  is  sur- 


L 


\ 


■^"'■"■"T 


FORTS   AROUND   BOSTOK. 


40S 


rounded  by  the  mounds  and  fosse  of  the  ancient  fort, 
which  has  been  nearly  obliterated. 

Cobble  or  BarreWs  Hill  was  fortified,  and  occupied  m 
a  strong  post,  in  the  war  of  the  revolution,  by  General 
Putnam,  and,  in  consequence  of  its  strength  was  call- 
ed  Putnam's  impregnable  fortress.  It  was  commenced 
on  the  night  of  November  22d ;  and  the  activity  of  its- 
fire  is  well  known  to  those  who  have  studied  the  de* 
tails  of  the  siege  of  Boston.  This  fort  has  been  de- 
stroyed ;  but  the  position  is  easily  identified. 

Lechmere  Point  Redoubt,  one  hundred  yards  from 
West  Boston  bridge,  displays  more  science  in  its  con- 
struction, and  has  a  wider  and  deeper  fosse  than  most 
of  the  other  fortifications.  It  was  commenced  on  Dec. 
]  1th,  1775,  and  it  was  several  days  before  it  was  com- 
pleted, during  which  time  it  was  much  exposed  to  the 
fire  of  the  English  in  Boston.  Two  or  three  soldiers  of 
the  revolutionary  army  were  killed  at  this  redoubt,  and 
the  Prunus  virginiana,  with  its  red  berries,  marks  the 
spot  where  they  were  probably  interred.  Upon  one 
angle  of  the  fort,  where  the  cannon  were  pointed  witb 
most  destructive  eflTect,  a  church  is  now  erected. 

A  causeway  made  across  the  marsh,  the  covered 
way  which  crosses  the  brow  of  the  hHl,  and  the  lines 
^hich  flanked  Willis'  creek,  are  still  perfect,  and  may 
be  traced  with  great  facility. 

Winter  HiU  Fort  appears  to  have  been  the  most  ex-^ 
tensive,  and  the  entrenchments  more  numerous,  than 
any  of  the  other  positions  of  the  American  army.  The 
fort  on  the  hill  is  almost  entirely  destroyed;  only  a 
small  part  of  the  rampart  still  remains  perfect* 

KK 


L^-^i;i4ftsifis^fia]r^t"> 


404 


rOETS  AROUMD  BOITON. 


A  redoubt  situated  upon  Ten  Hill  Farm,  which  com- 
manded  the  navigation  of  the  Mysticriver,  is  complete, 
as  are  also  some  slight  entrenchments  near. 

A  redoubt,  situated  between  Winter  and  Prospect 
hills,  has  been  completely  carried  away,  and  a  quarry 
has  been  opened  on  the  spot.  In  the  general  orders, 
issued  at  Cambridge,  guards  were  directed  to  be  sta- 
tioned at  White  House  Redoubt,  and  this  it  is  believed 
was  the  post  intended.  General  Lee  is  said  to  have 
had  his  head  quarters  in  a  farm  house  immediately  in 
the  rear  of  this  redoubt. 

Prospect  Hill  has  two  eminences,  both  of  which  were 
strongly  fortified,  and  connected  by  a  rampart  and 
fosse ;  about  two  hundred  yards  are  quite  entire ;  they 
are  ornamented  with  the  aster,  solidago,  rosa,  &c. ; 
and  those  who  feel  any  curiosity  about  these  lines,  will 
be  much  gratified  by  the  view  here  afforded.  The  forts 
on  these  hii!s  were  destroyed  only  a  few  years  ago,  but 
their  size  can  be  distinctly  seen.  On  the  southern  em- 
inence a  part  of  the  fort  is  still  entire,  and  the  south- 
west face  of  the  hill  is  divided  into  several  platforms. 
There  are  also  evident  marks  of  the  dwellings  of  the 
soldiers.  The  extensive  view  from  this  hill,  the  walk 
on  the  ancient  ramparts,  and  the  sight  of  the  various 
stations  occupied  for  the  American  army,  will  render 
this  spot,  at  a  future  period,  a  favorite  resort. 

The  Cambridge  LineSf  situated  upon  Butler^s  Hill, 
appear  to  have  consisted  of  six  regular  forts,  connected 
by  a  strong  entrenchment.  The  most  northerly  of 
these  forts  is  perfect.  With  the  exception  of  one  of  its 
angles  destroyed  by  the  road,  it  appears  as  if  just  quit- 
ted by  the  army  of  America ;  ite  bastions  are  entire^ 


r(:-s-; 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 


405 


the  outline  ia  perfect,  and  it  seems  a  chief  d'cduvre  of 
the  military  art 

A  square  fort  may  be  seen  near  the  southern  extrem- 
ity of  these  lines,  in  fine  preservation  ;  it  is  in  a  field 
within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  road  to  Cambridge. 
The  eastern  rampart  is  lower  than  the  others,  and  the 
gateway  with  its  bank  of  earth  still  remains. 

The  second  Line  of  Defence  may  be  traced  on  the  col- 
IiPg6  green  at  Cambridge,  but  its  proximity  to  the  pub- 
lic halls  may  have  produced  some  inconvenience,  and 
it  has  been  carefully  destroyed. 

•4  semicircular  hatteryj  with  three  embrasures,  on  the 
northern  shore  of  Charles  river,  near  its  entrance  into 
the  bay,  is  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation.  It  is  rath- 
er above  the  level  of  the  marsh,  and  those  who  would 
wish  to  see  it,  should  pass  on  the  road  to  Cambridge 
until  they  arrive  at  a  cross  road  which  leads  to  the 
bank  of  the  river ;  by  following  the  course  of  the 
stream,  they  may  arrive  at  this  battery  without  cross- 
ing the  marsh,  which  is  its  northern  boundary,  and  dif- 
ficult to  pass. 

Brookline  Fort,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  the  annals  of  the 
revolution,  the  fort  on  Sewell*s  Point,  was  very  exten- 
sive, and  would  still  be  perfect,  were  it  not  for  the  road 
which  divides  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  With 
this  exception,  the  rampart  and  an  irregular  bastion, 
which  commanded  the  entrance  of  Charles  river,  are 
entire.  The  fort  was  nearly  quadrangular,  and  the 
fortifications  stronger  than  many  of  the  other  positions 
of  the  American  army. 

A  battery,  on  the  southern  shore  of  Muddy  river, 
with  three  embrasures,  is  only  slightly  injured. 


:M.,  ...jtiK.-..<^ibLi£^kj#ii;t^-^'^;;£*. 


406 


rORTS   A&OUND   BOSTON. 


Forts  at  Roxbury.  The  lower  fort  at  Roxbury  ap- 
pears to  have  been  the  earliest  erected,  and  by  its  ele- 
vation commanded  the  avenue  to  Boston  over  the  pe- 
ninsula,  and  prevented  the  advance  of  the  English 
troops  in  that  direction.  It  is  of  the  most  irregular 
form,  the  interior  occupies  about  two  acres  of  ground, 
and  as  the  hill  is  bare  of  soil,  the  places  may  still  bo 
seen  whence  the  earth  was  taken  to  form  the  ramparts. 
This  fortification  has  not  been  at  all  injured,  and  the 
embrasures  may  still  be  noticed  where  the  cannon 
were  placed  which  fired  upon  the  advanced  lines  of  the 
enemy. 

On  a  higher  eminence  of  the  some  hill  is  situated  a 
quadrangular  fort,  built  on  tho  summit  of  a  rock,  and 
being  perhaps  their  first  attempt  at  regular  fortification, 
it  was  considered  by  the  militia  of  unparalleled  strength, 
and  excited  great  confidence  in  that  wing  of  tho  army 
stationed  at  Roxbury. 

The  Roxbury  Lines^  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in 
advance  of  the  forts,  and  two  hundred  yards  north  of 
the  town,  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
peninsula,  and  may  be  distinguished  by  any  person  go- 
ing the  nearest  road  to  Dorchester,  over  Lamb's  dam. 

At  this  period  it  may  be  proper  to  mention  the  Brit- 
ish fortifications.  The  lines  situated  upon  the  Neck 
may  be  seen  to  great  advantage  on  the  western  side  of 
the  isthmus,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  green 
stores.  There  appear  to  have  been  two  lines  of  en- 
trenchments carried  quite  across  the  peninsula,  and 
the  fosse,  which  was  filled  at  high  water,  converted 
Boston  into  an  island.  The  mounds,  ramparts  and 
wide  ditches  which  remain,  attest  the  strength  of  the 


rORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 


407 


rit- 

ick 

of 

ten 


original  works.  The  small  battery  on  the  common^ 
erected  by  the  British,  may  perhaps  remain  for  a  long 
period  of  years,  as  a  memorial  of  ancient  times. 

The  Dorchester  Lines,    Of  these  some  very  slight 
traces  may  be  distinguished. 

Forts  on  Dorchester  Heights.  We  now  hasten  to  the 
last  forts,  the  erection  of  which  terminated  the  contest 
in  this  portion  of  the  eastern  states  of  America.  It  is 
to  be  regretted  that  the  entrenchments  thrown  up  by 
the  army  of  the  revolution,  on  the  heights  of  Dorches- 
ter, are  almost  entirely  obliterated  by  the  erection  of 
two  new  forts  in  the  late  war.  But  some  traces  of  the 
ancient  works  may  be  seen  on  both  hills ;  the  old  forts 
were  constructed  with  more  skill  and  display  more  sci- 
ence than  the  recent  works,  the  ramparts  of  which  are 
even  now  falling  down ;  and  we  would  gladly  see 
them  destroyed,  if  from  their  ruins  the  ancient  works 
could  re-appear. 

A  noble  octagonal  fort  and  two  batteries,  which  may 
be  seen  in  perfect  preservation  upon  the  promontory, 
were  erected  af\er  the  departure  of  the  English  from 
Boston.  The  fort  is  situated  at  the  point ;  one  battery 
is  in  the  rear  of  the  House  of  Industry,  whose  inmates 
will  probably  soon  destroy  it,  and  the  other  upon  a  ris- 
ing ground  immediately  below  the  heights  of  Dor- 
chester. 

At  J^ook  Hill,  near  South  Boston  bridge,  maybe  seen 
the  last  breast-work  which  was  thrown  up  by  the  for- 
ces of  America  during  this  arduous  contest.  Its  appear- 
ance on  the  morning  of  March  17, 1776,  induced  the 
departure  of  the  British  troops  from  Boston  in  a  few 
hours,  and  thus  placed  the  seal  to  the  independence  of 

kk2 


* 


iiii.iP 


408 


FROM   BOSTON   TO  PORTLAND. 


the  N«w-England  states.  But  those  who  would  wish 
to  see  this  entrenchment  must  visit  it  soon.  The  ene- 
my have  attacked  it  on  three  sides,  and  are  proceeding 
by  sap  and  by  mine ;  part  of  the  fosse  is  already  de- 
stroyed, and  the  rampart  nods  to  its  fall. 

PROM   BOSTON  TO   PORTLAND,  (Maine.) 

A  stage  leaves  Boston  daily  at  8  A.  M.  (Sundays 
excepted,)  reaching  Newburyport  at  1  P.M.  and  Ports- 
mouth, N.  FJ.  at  5.  Leaves  Portsmouth  the  ncx;  morn- 
ing at  8,  and  readies  Portland  at  5  P.  M.  Distance 
120  miles — fare  $6.  The  intervening  distances  are  as 
follow : 

J^iles.  I  Miles. 


Lynn,* 9 

8alem,'*' 5 

Newburyport, 24 

Portsmouth, 24 


York, 9 

Kcnnebimk, 24 

Saco,., 10 

Portland,  » 15 


Lynn  is  a  large  township,  with  a  population  of 
10,000.  It  contains  8  churches  and  many  large  man- 
ufacturing establishments  for  ladies'  shoes,  which  are 
sent  to  the  southern  states  and  the  West  Indies.  The 
Lynn  beach  connects  the  peninsula  of  Nahant  with 
the  main  land,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  in  summer. 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  New-England, 
and  several  records  of  its  early  history  have  been  re- 
cently collected  and  published  in  Boston.  The  author, 
Alonzo  Lewis,  Esq.  has  given  a  mass  of  interesting 


*  These  places  are  not  on  the  direct  route  from  Bos- 
ton to  Newburyport;  but  it  is,  nevertheless,  recom- 
mended to  travellers  to  pass  through  them. 


■•*,;;, 


SALEM — NKWBURTPORT. 


409 


facts  and  occurrences  of  **  olden  time/*  furnishing  alto- 
gether a  curious  compendium,  not  only  to  antiquarians 
and  the  immediate  descendants  of  tiie  first  settlers  of 
that  place,  but  to  readers  of  every  class  and  section  of 
the  country.  All  the  quaintncss  and  original  simplici- 
ty of  the  original  langua/^e  has  been  preserved,  and 
such  remarks  of  the  compiler  introduced  as  are  neces- 
sary to  explain  the  meaning  or  increase  the  interest. 


Salem  is  considered  the  second  town  in  New-Eng- 
land in  commerce,  wealth  and  population.  It  is  locat- 
ed on  a  peninsula  formed  by  two  inlets  of  the  sea,  call- 
ed North  and  South  rivers.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
North  river  is  the  town  of  Beverly,  to  which  a  bridge 
leads,  1500  feet  in  length.  JMIarblchcad  is  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  South  river,  which  forms  the  harbor,  de- 
fended by  two  forts.  Salem  contains  a  court  house,  3 
banks,  an  atheneum,  a  museum,  an  orphan  asylum  and 
13  churches.  The  SquarCf  near  ihc  centre  of  the  town, 
is  a  beautiful  tract  of  ground,  and  is  surrounded  by  nu- 
merous elegant  private  dwellings. 

Salem  was  settled  as  early  as  1626.  Its  Indian  name 
was  Naumkeag.  In  1692,  and  for  some  time  after- 
wards, several  of  its  inhabitants  became  a  prej  to  the 
greatest  credulity  and  bigotry.  Its  prison  was  crowd- 
ed with  persons  accused  of  witchcraft,  many  of  whom 
paid  their  life  as  a  forfeit  for  their  supposed  crimes. 
The  present  population  of  the  town  is  from  12  to 
15,000. 


/ 

t 


Newburtport  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Merrimack  river,  three  miles  from  its 


410 


POftTSlHOUTU. 


month,  rising  on  a  gradual  acclivity  from  the  water. 
The  streets  are  wide,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right 
angles ;  and  many  of  the  houses  are  elegant.  The 
court  house,  standing  at  tho  head  of  one  of  the  princi- 
pal streets  leading  from  the  river,  adds  much  to  the 
beauty  of  the  place.  The  village  contains  2  banks,  7 
churches  and  7000  inhabitants,  and  is  a  place  of  con- 
siderable trade ;  though  it  suffered  much  during  the  ro- 
■trictive  system,  previous  to  the  late  war. 


Portsmouth  is  the  largest  town  and  only  seaport  in 
KeW'Hampshire.  It  is  located  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Piscataqua  river,  2  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  town 
contains  5  banks,  an  atheneum,  an  asylum  for  females, 
an  alms  house,  custom  house  and  7  churches.  A  bridge 
2371  feet  long  crosses  the  river  at  this  place  to  Kittery, 
Me.,  on  the  opposite  side.  On  an  island  between  the 
two  places  is  a  navy  yard.  The  town  is  handsome  in 
its  appearance,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and 
contains  a  population  of  about  8000. 

In  1695  this  place  was  assaulted  by  a  party  of  In- 
dians, and  14  of  its  inhabitants  killed,  one  scalped,  who 
recovered,  and  four  taken  prisoners.  After  burning 
several  houses,  the  Indians  retreated  through  what  is 
called  the  great  swamp.  They  were,  however,  overtak- 
en the  next  morning  by  a  company  of  militia,  dispers- 
ed, and  the  prisoners  retaken. 

After  leaving  Portsmouth,  the  villages  of  York, 
Welles,  Kennebunk  and  Saco,  are  successively  passed 
before  reaching  Portland ;  affording  very  little  to  inter- 
est, if  we  except  an  old  fort  about  three  miles  and  a 
half  Qorthpeast  of  Welles,  and  the  falls  at  Saco,  on  the 


PORTLAND. 


411 


river  of  that  name,  which  rises  in  the  White  Moun- 
tains of  New-Hampshire.  These  falls  are  about  30 
feet,  and  afford  facilities  for  extensive  manufacturing 
operations. 

Portland,  the  capital  of  Maine  and  a  port  of  entry, 
is  a  beautiful  town,  located  on  a  peninsula  projecting 
into  Casco  bay.    This  peninsula  has  two  prominences, 
on  one  of  which  stands  several  elegant  dwelling  hou- 
«es,  and  on  the  other  an  observatory.    The  harbor  is 
safe,  well  defended,  and  has  a  light- house  at  its  en- 
trance.     Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  town  are 
an  elegant  court  house,  a  jail,  custom  house,  2  banks, 
an  academy,  athcneum  and  10  churches.    Population 
about  1 5,000.   From  the  observatory  an  extensive  pros- 
pect is  had  of  the  oconn  and  of  the  country  at  the  north- 
west, terminated  by  the  White  Mountains.    On  Bang's 
and  House  Islands,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  aro 
Forts  Preble  and  Scammel.    At  the  east,  32  miles  dis- 
tant, is  seen  the  light-house  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ken- 
nebec river,  with  a  great  variety  of  islands  intervening. 
West  of  the  observatory  is  Fort  Sumner,  on  a  hill,  with 
several  intrenchmonts  made  during  the  revolutiona- 
ry war. 

Portland  (then  called  Falmouth)  was  nearly  laid  in 
ruins  in  October,  1775.  The  inhabitants  were  required 
by  Capt.  Mowatt,  of  the  British  sloop  of  war  Canceau, 
to  surrender  their  arms  ;  and  on  a  refusal,  he  com- 
menced a  bombardment  of  the  town,  which  Irsted  nine 
hours,  resulting  in  a  destruction  of  130  houses,  three 
fourths  of  the  whole  number. 

Stages  leave  Portland  three  times  a  week  for  the 
White  Mountains  in  New-Hampshire,   (see  p.  376.) 


418 


FROM   PORTLAND   TO  (lUBBEC. 


passing  through  Westbrook,  Qorham,  Standish,  Bald- 
win, Hiram,  Brownsfield  and  Fryeburgh  to  Conway, 
which  thoy  reach  at  evening.  Distance  62  miles — fare 
$3.  From  Conway  a  stago  leaves  on  Monday  and 
Thursday  mornings,  passing  through  Bartictt,  HarCs 
Location,  over  the  Avalanches  at  the  Notch  of  the 
White  Mountains,  through  Nash  and  Swain's  Loca- 
tion, Britton  woods  and  Bethlehem  to  Littleton  on  the 
Connecticut  river.  Distance  48  miles— fare  $3.  [Lit- 
tleton is  17  miles  below  Lancaster,  100  miles  north  of 
Concord,  N.  H.,  and  is  located  at  the  moutli  and  falls 
of  the  Amanoosuc  river.    See  p,  368.] 

FROM  PORTLAND  TO  quEBEC — 258  miles. 

A  road  is  now  finished  from  Portland  to  Ctuebec, 
principally  over  the  route  pursued  by  Gen.  Arnold  and 
his  troops  in  1775,  previous  to  the  assault  of  that  place 
by  Gen.  Montgomery.  The  completion  of  this  road 
will  frequently  induce  strangers  to  take  the  state  of 
Maine,  as  well  as  Montreal,  in  their  route  to  or  from 
Cluebec. 

The  intermediate  distances  on  this  route  are  as 
follow : 


J^Ues. 
From  Portland   to 
North  Yarmouth,..  12 

Freeport 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bowdointown.......  13 

Hallowell, 15 

Augusta,.  ........••     3 

Sidney, 12 

Watcrville » ,     5 

Fairfield, 4 


MUes. 

Bloomfield, •...  7 

Norridgework,.. 5 

Anson, .....'..  11 

Dead  River, 30 

Forks  of  Kennebeck 

River, 15 

Moose  River, 24 

Chaudiere  River, 37 

Cluebeo, 60 


NORTH  TARMOTTTH— MALLOWBLL. 


413 


North  Yarmouth,  12  miles  north  of  Portland,  is 
located  on  Casco  bay,  about  35  miles  from  the  ocean, 
and  is  a  village  of  some  magnitude,  containing  four 
churches,  an  academy,  and  about  4000  inhabitants. 
The  bay  affords  fine  anchorage  for  vessels,  and  the  sur- 
rounding country  is  picturesque  and  interesting. 

Frceport,  G  miles  farther,  is  at  the  head  of  Casco 
bay,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  2500  inhabi- 
tants. 

Brunswick,  9  miles.  The  village,  which  is  pecul- 
iarly pleasant,  is  situated  on  the  south-west  bank  of  the 
Androscoggin,  river,  at  the  falls,  which  furnish  valua- 
ble scuts  for  mills  and  manufactories.  Boiodoin  coUegCf 
at  this  place,  is  located  on  an  elevated  and  beautiful 
plain,  enjoying"  a  rich  and  diversified  view  of  the  river 
and  surrounding  country.  The  college  originally  re- 
ceived a  donation  of  $10,000  from  the  late  James  D. 
Bowdoin,  Esq.  and  five  townships  of  land  from  the 
state.  It  also  receives  $3000  annually  from  the  latter. 
From  130  to  150  students  are  yearly  educated  at  this 
institution. 


6 
U 
30 

15 
24 
37 
60 


BowDoiNTOWN,  13  miles. 

Hallowell,  15  miles,  is  a  very  flourishing  village, 
on  tho  Kennebeck  river,  at  the  head  of  tide  water.  U 
contains  an  academy,  a  bank,  three  churches,  between 
2  and  300  dwelling  houses,  some  of  which  are  very  el- 
egant, and  about  3000  inhabitants.  Granite  is  here  ob- 
tained, which  is  considered  equal  to  any  evei;  discover- 


414       AUGUSTA — WATERVILLB — NORRIDGEWORK. 


ed  in  the  Union.    Vessels  of  150  tons  burthen  ascend 
the  river  as  far  as  this  place. 

Augusta,  3  miles,  is  the  scat  of  government  of  the 
state,  and  is  located  on  both  hhIcb  of  the  Kennebeck 
river,  over  which  is  a  substantial  bridge.  A  part  of  the 
village  is  on  a  very  elevated  plain  above  the  river,  and 
a  part  of  it  on  its  banks.  Many  of  tiie  dveelUngs  ex- 
hibit much  taste  and  elegance  in  their  structure,  and 
the  whole  appearance  of  the  place  is  pecuharly  inviting 
and  pleasant. 

The  new  Slate  Housc^  lately  erected  here,  is  an  orna- 
ment to  the  town,  and  highly  creditable  to  the  munifi- 
cence of  the  state. 

Sidney,  12  miles  farther,  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the 
Kennebeck  river. 

Waterville,  5  miles,  on  the  same  river,  is  a  place 
of  considerable  magnitude,  containing  a  bank.  At  Te- 
conick  Falls  in  this  town,  at  the  head  of  boat  naviga- 
tion, there  are  several  manufactories,  and  a  flourishing 
village  is  springing  up.  Waterville  College^  under  the 
direction  of  the  Baptist  denomination,  is  located  in  this 
town.  It  was  commenced  in  1818,  and  educates  be- 
tween 50  and  60  students  annually  for  the  ministry. 

Bloomfield,  1 1  miles.  A  pleasant  village,  contain- 
ing a  respectable  academy. 

NoRRiDOBwoRK,  5  miles,  is  situated  on  both  banks 
of  the  Kennebeck  river.    It  is  the  capital  of  Somerset 


county 

lago  is 

countr 

lation 

The 

lous  cc 

ing  dis 

an  occi 

cr,  arc 

few  yej 

of  settle 

FRO 

Thel 

North  ^ 

Preepor 

Brunswi 

Bath,... 

Wiscass 

Newcas 

Waldob 

Warren, 

Thoraast 

Camden, 

Lincolnv 

Belfast, . 

Buckstoi 

Penobsc( 

Therd 
of  highl> 
Yarmout 
noticed. 


FEOM   IPORTLAND   TO   EASTPOET. 


415 


county,  and  contains  a  court  house  and  jail.  Tho  vil- 
lage is  centrally  located  for  tho  trade  of  a  fcrtilo  back 
country,  and  is  a  flourishing  place,  containing  a  popu- 
lation of  about  2000  inhabitants. 

The  route  to  duebcc  continues  through  a  less  popu- 
lous country  for  a!)out  50  miles ;  when,  for  the  remain- 
ing distance,  it  passes  through  extensive  forests,  with 
an  occasional  settlement  only.  The^e  forests,  howev- 
er, are  giving  way  to  the  arts  of  husbandry,  and  in  a 
few  years  will  doubtless  bo  succeeded  by  a  succession 
of  settlements  and  cultivated  farms. 


.m- 


P»OM  PORTLAND  TO  EASTPORT — 287  lUileS. 

The  following  are  the  intermediate  distances  : 


Miles. 
North  Yarmouth,...  12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bath, 7 

Wiscasset, . » li 

Newcastle, 11 

Waldoboro* 12 

Warren, ;  • . . .    8 

Thomastown ,....., .     5 

Camden, 11 

Lincolnvillc, 7 

Belfast, 11 

Buckstown, 18 

Penobscot,.... 13 


Miles. 

Castine, 4 

BlueHill, 10 

Surry, 8 

Trenton, 12 

Sullivan, 9 

Steuben,  t 14 

Harrison, 8 

Columbia,... «...., ..  12 

Jonesboro', .,.., 9 

Machias, ,.«  9 

E.  Falls  of  JVLachias,..  G 

Dcnnysvillc, 23 

Easport  Ferry, 14 

Eastport, 4 


The  route  is  near  the  coast,  and  embraces  an  extent 
of  highly  interesting  and  romantic  country.  North 
Yarmouth,  Freeport  and  Brunswick  have  already  been 
noticed. 


IL 


416 


BATH — THOMASTOWN. 


■.V 


Bath,  34  miles  north*  east  of  Portland,  is  a  port  of 
entry,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Kennebeck  river,  fifteen 
miles  from  its  mouth.  The  river  is  here  a  mile  wide^ 
and  the  town  is  built  on  an  acclivity  for  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  extent,  and  assumes  a  very  handsome  appear- 
ance from  the  water.  It  is  a  place  of  extensive  busi- 
ness, and  contains  two  banks,  an  academy,  five  church- 
es, and  a  population  of  nearly  5000  inhabitants. 

WiscASSET,  15  miles,  is  a  port  of  entry,  located  on 
the  west  side  of  Sheepscot  river,  with  an  excellent  har- 
bor. The  place  contains  a  court  hou:^e,  jail,  bank,  in- 
surance office,  and  some  other  public  buildings,  and  a 
population  of  about  2500. 


Newcastle,  11  miles,  is  located  on  the  west  side  of 
Sheepscot  river. 

Waldoboro^  12  miles,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  a  place 
of  considerable  trade,  containing  a  population  of  about 
3000  inhabitants. 

Warren,  8  miles,  is  located  on  St  George's  rivor, 
which  is  navigable  to  this  place  for  sloops. 


ThomastowNj  5  miles,  is  a  place  of  extensive  busi- 
ness, situated  on  the  west  side  of  Penobscot  bay  and 
on  St.  George's  river,  12  miles  from  its  mouth.  The 
state  prison  of  Maine  is  at  this  place,  and  is  in  a  lot  of 
10  acres,  enclosed  by  a  solid  wall,  within  which  is  an 
extensive  quarry  of  limestone.  There  are  also  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  town  inexhaustible  quarries  of  lime  and 


.>/■ 


CAMOBN'^CASTINB. 


417 


marble,  of  which  large  quantities  are  annually  export- 
ed. The  village  contains  a  bank  and  a  population  of 
about  3000  inhabitants.  About  a  mile  from  the  vil- 
lage is  the  ancient  residence  of  the  late  Gen.  Knox, 
now  in  a  state  of  decay. 

Camden,  11  miles,  and  Likcolnvillb,  7  miles  far- 
ther, are  both  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Penob- 
scot bay. 

Belfast,  1 1  miles  from  Lincolnville,  is  on  the  same 
side  of  the  bay,  and  is  a  flourishing  village. 

BucKSTOWM,  18  miles,  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Pe- 
nobscot, the  largest  river  in  the  state.  J*  is  navigable 
for  large  vessels  to  Bangor,  50  miles  from  its  entrance 
into  the  bay. 

Penobscot,  13  miles,  on  the  east  side  of  a  bay  of 
that  name. 

Castinb,  4  miles,  is  situated  on  a  promoi  tory,  near 
the  head  of  the  east  side  of  Penobscot  bay,  witii  a  beau- 
tiful harbor  stretching  out  before  the  town.  Castine 
can  be  easily  defended  from  assault ;  as  the  narrow* 
ness  of  the  isthmus  which  connects  it  with  the  main 
land  couid  be  insulated  with  comparatively  a  small  ex- 
pense ;  added  to  which,  strong  batteries  would  enable 
it  to  resist  any  force  which  would  probably  be  brought 
against  it  This  would  be  the  more  important  in  time 
of  war,  as  an  enemy  in  possession  of  the  place  would 
have  command  of  the  intermediate  country  from  Pe- 


-''M-LAl-.-uXL'-'' 


418 


MACHUt—BASTPORT. 


nobscot  to  St.  Croix.  The  place  was  taken  during  tho 
last  war,  and  the  British  entrenchments  on  a  hill  above 
the  town  are  still  visible. 

Blue  Hill,  Surry,  Trenton,  Sullivan,  (in  which  there 
is  a  bridge  across  Hog  bay  1400  feet  long,)  Steuben, 
Harrison,  Columbia  and  Joncsborough  are  successive- 
ly passed  in  travelling  from  Castine  to 

Machias,  a  port  of  entry  and  capital  of  Washington 
county.  Me.  The  town  contains  two  villages — one  sit- 
uated at  tho  falls  of  the  east  branch  of  the  Machias 
river,  and  the  other  at  the  falls  of  the  west  branch  of 
the  same  stream.  Between  the  two  villages  a  bridge 
is  erected  across  middle  river,  which,  with  the  cause- 
way, is  1900  feet  long.  Machias  contains  a  court 
house,  jail,  4  churches,  a  very  flourishing  academy,  and 
i9  a  thriving  place. 

Eastport  is  a  port  of  entry  on  Moose  island  in  Pas- 
samaquoddy  bay.  The  island  is  4  miles  long,  with  a 
bold  shore,  the  tide  ordinarily  rising  here  25  feet.  The 
town  is  principally  built  on  the  southern  part  of  the  isl- 
and, and  contains  a  bank,  4  churches,  and  about  3000 
inhabitants.  There  are  also  fortifications  in  the  vicini- 
ty, which  were  constructed  during  the  last  war.  The 
view  from  the  heights  on  the  island  is  very  extensive 
and  romantic,  taking  in  the  bay  with  its  numerous  isU 
ands  and  the  adjacent  coast.  Between  Eastport  and 
(he  town  of  Perry  on  the  main  land,  a  bridge  has  been 
constructed,  rising  of  1200  feet  long.  A  line  of  steam 
boats  is  established  between  this  place  and  Boston, 


.JSvir.-...-;!,:.*.: 


■r^'s^-;-r^.i;^^f. 


FROM   BOSTON   TO   PROTIDBNCE. 


419 


touching  at  Portland,  so  that  travellers  can  take  either 
«  water  or  land  route  to  that  city. 


RoBiNSTOWN,  13  miles  north-west  of  Eastport,  locat- 
ed at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix  river  at  its  entrance 
into  the  Passamaquoddy  bay,  is  on  the-  boundary  line 
between  the  United  States  and  the  British  Province  of 
New-Brunswick,  anc,'  is  opposite  St.  Andrews. 

FROM  BOSTON   TO  PROVIDENCE,  R.  I. — 40  mileS. 

The  route  is  over  the  Boston  and  Providence  Rail 
Road,  which  was  begun  in  1831,  and  completed 
in  1835.  The  road  commences  in  Boston,  near  the 
south-west  corner  of  the  common,  and  crossing  the 
Boston  and  Worcester  rail  road,  it  proceeds  in  a  south- 
westerly direction  through  Roxbury,  Canton,  Sharon, 
Mansfield  and  Attleborough.  The  greatest  elevation  is 
at  Sharon,  23  miles  from  Boston,  the  ascent  in  reach- 
ing which,  for  a  distance  of  five  miles,  is  at  the  rate  of 
37  feet  per  mile.  The  descent  from  this  ridge  towards 
Providence  averages  from  10  to  12  feet  per  mile.  Be- 
tween Roxbury  and  Canton  a  branch,  two  miles  long, 
has  been  constructed  to  the  village  of  Dedham  ;'*'  and 
from  Mansfield,  a  branch,  eleven  miles  long,  has  also 


*  Thij  is  a  large  and  beautiful  town,  containing  a 
court  house,  jail,  6  churches,  and  between  3  and  3^0 
inhabitants.  Charles  and  Neponset  rivers  run  through 
the  place,  and  afford  numerous  sites  for  mills  and  man-> 
ufacturing  establishments.  Silk  is  reeled  and  throws^ 
ed  here  on  a  small  scale — ^the  first  experiment  «f 
tbr^wsting  in  the  U.  S. 

Ll2 


420 


PROVIDENCE. 


been  constructed  to  the  village  of  Tannton.  The  main 
road  and  branches  are  each  laid  with  a  single  track, 
but  of  the  most  permanent  materials.  The  viaduct  at 
Canton  is  a  work  of  magnitude,  and  as  an  object  of  cu- 
riority,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  on  this  road.  It 
is  450  feet  long  and  from  40  to  50  feet  above  the  natu- 
ral surface,  built  entirely  of  granite,  in  the  most  per- 
manent manner. 

Two  trains  of  carriages  for  passengers  pass  daily 
(Sundays  excepted)  from  and  to  Boston  and  Provi- 
dence, and  also  a  train,  whose  time  of  arrival  and  de- 
parture is  accommodated  to  the  time  of  the  boats  ply- 
ing between  New- York  and  Providence.  The  pass- 
age on  the  rail  road  is  generally  effected  in  two  hours 
and  a  half;  and  connected,  as  this  road  is,  with  a  line 
of  splendid  steam  boats  to  New- York,  it  enables  the 
traveller  to  pass  between  Boston  and  that  city  in  14  or 
.  15  hours. 


A 

V 


PBOVIDENCE 

Is  situated  at  the  head  of  tide  waters  on  Narragan- 
set  bay,  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Seekonk  river, 
and  about  33  or  34  miles  from  the  sea.  It  was  founded 
in  1636,  by  Roger  Williams,  wh  ose  name  is  so  deserv- 
edly celebrated  in  the  history  o .'  religious  liberty.  lie 
was  a  puritan  minister  at  Salem,  but  differing  in  some 
points  of  faith  from  many  of  his  brethren  in  the  colony, 
he  was  banished  from  the  limits  of  Massachusetts,  and 
came  to  a  place  called  by  the  Indians  Mooshausick. 
Here  he  began  a  settlement  on  the  principle  of  entire 
"freedom  in  religious  conGemments"~to  which,  in  to- 
ken of  his  gratitude  for  the  protection  and  guidance  of 


P&OTIDBKCE. 


421 


Heaven,  he  gave  the  namo  of  Providence.  The  town 
is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  river  which  bears  its  name, 
on  the  declivity  of  a  hill  that  commands  an  extensive 
view  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  of  the  beautiful 
bay  that  lies  below.  It  received  a  charter  of  incorpora- 
tion and  became  a  city  in  1832.  Its  situation  is  not  fa- 
vorable to  extensive  commerce.  Its  wealth  and  enter- 
prise are  on  this  account  principally  devoted  to  manu- 
factures, for  which  the  numerous  streams  in  its  neigh- 
borhood afford  abundant  facilities.  It  contains  a  num- 
ber of  attractive  public  buildings — among  which  de- 
servo  to  be  mentioned,  a  court  house,  market,  an  ar- 
cade, a  new  hotel  recently  erected  in  the  south  part 
of  the  city,  near  the  depot  of  the  Boston  and  Prov- 
idence rail  road,  and  especially  several  of  the  houses  for 
public  worship,  which  are  built  with  unusual  taste  and 
elegance.  It  is  also  well  supplied  with  institutions  of 
charity  and  learning.  In  addition  to  nearly  20  houses 
of  public  worship,  it  has  an  asylum  for  the  poor,  a 
number  of  academies  and  a  college.  For  the  healthi- 
ness of  its  situation  and  the  morals  of  its  people.  Prov- 
idence stands  among  the  first  cities  in  the  Union.  Its 
population  is  about  18,000. 

Brown  UniversUyf  established  in  this  city,  was  incor- 
porated in  1764,  and  has  always  held  a  respectable 
rank  among  the  colleges  of  New-England.  Since  1827 
the  Rev.  Francis  Wayland,  D.  D.  has  been  its  Presi- 
dent. Under  the  able  and  well  sustained  administra- 
tion of  this  distinguished  gentleman,  its  character  has 
been  very  much  elevated,  and  its  means  of  instruction 
greatly  enlarged.  A  full  and  elegant  philosophical  ap- 
paratus was  a  few  years  fiince  presented  to  the  institu- 


422 


PROVIDENCE. 


lion  by  a  lale  munificent  merchant  of  Providence,  and 
fitill  more  recently  a  fund  of  25,000  dollura  has  been 
raised  for  the  increase  of  its  library.  The  college  edi- 
fices are  situated  on  a  commanding  eminence,  a  little 
to  the  east  of  the  city,  in  the  midst  of  a  spacious  inclos- 
ure,  adorned  with  trees  and  approached  through  a  beau- 
tiful street,  lined  on  either  side  by  over-hanging  elms. 
Tho  buildings  aro  three  in  number — University  Hall, 
Hope  College  and  Manning  Hall.  The  latter  was 
erected  in  1835,  and  is  a  beautiful  model  of  chaste  and 
simple  architecture.  It  is  devoted  to  tho  purposes  of  a 
chapel  and  library.  The  catalogue  of  this  seat  of  learn- 
ing, for  1836-7,  gives  as  its  present  faculty  6  professors 
besides  Che  president,  who  is  also  professor  of  moral 
and  intellectual  philosophy,  3  tutors,  and  an  instructor 
in  modern  languages.  The  number  of  its  students  is 
not  far  from  ^00. 

About  half  a  mile  north-east  of  t'.ie  university  is  a 
large  building  called  the  duaker  College.  It  was 
built  by  the  society  of  Friends,  and  is  occupied  as  a 
boarding  school  for  that  denomination.  The  building, 
which  is  of  plain  brick,  and  the  spacious  grounds 
around  it,  are  made  attractive  by  the  appearance  of 
neatness  and  good  order  that  pervades  them.  A  little 
to  the  south  of  this  and  of  corresponding'  dimensions, 
but  richer  architecture,  stands  the  Dexter  Asylum,  a 
noble  edifice,  erected  by  the  town  from  the  avails  of  a 
legacy  left  by  a  late  munificent  citizen,  whose  name  k 
bears. 

The  city  abounds  with  the  most  delightful  private 
residences.  The  new  town  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  has  more  the  appearance  of  a  flourishing  eonr 


STOHIMOTOM  AKD  PROTIDtNCB  RAa  ROAD.       423 


a 
a 
it 


raercial  city  than  tho  old.  It  also  contains  many  spa- 
cious dwellings,  which  impart  to  it  an  air  of  superiori- 
ty.  The  Hill,  or  East  Providence,  as  it  ia  called,  is  oc- 
cupied by  gentlemen's  private  mansions,  or  country 
seats,  all  advantageously  located,  with  fine  court  yards 
in  front,  thickly  planted  with  ehubbcry,  while  highly 
cultivated  and  beautiful  gardens  adorn  tho  rear,  and 
add  immeasurably  to  their  comfort.  The  charming  res- 
idence of  Messrs.  Brown,  Ives  and  Governor  Fenncr 
are  entitled  to  particular  notice.  It  was  on  tho  present 
domains  of  Governor  Fenncr  that  Roger  Williams  first 
planted  himself,  and  it  has  so  happened,  that  from  that 
day  to  this  that  situation  has  belonged  to  a  governor  of 
Rhode  Island. 

The  Blackstone  Canal  terminates  at  this  place.  It 
commences  in  tlie  Blackstone  river  at  Worcester,  45 
miles  distant,  and  pursues  the  valley  of  the  river  to 
Woonsokett  falls,  near  the  Massachusetts  Lne;  from 
whence  there  is  an  excavation  to  Providence. 

The  Stonington  and  Providence  Rail  Road 
commences  at  Providence,  and  extends  to  Si  onington, 
(Conn.)  a  distance  of  48|  miles,  which,  being  nearly 
completed,  will  very  much  shorten  the  distance  and  im- 
prove the  passage  to  New- York.  To  this  will  soon  bo 
added  the  Long  Island  rail  road,  97  miles  long,  extend- 
ing from  the  Greenport  ferry,  24  miles  from  Stonning- 
ton,  to  the  Brooklyn  ferry,  1  mile  from  New- York ; 
which  will  give  an  uninterrupted  communication  by 
rail  road  from  the  latter  place  to  Boston,  excepting  25 
miles  of  ferriage. 


434 


FROM  PROTIDBNCE  TO  NEWPORT. 


Steam  Boats  leave  Providence  liz  timei  a  week  for 
New- York— fare  $6. 

Stages,  also,  leave  Providence  three  times  a  week 
for  Norwich  and  Middletown,  and  daily  (except  Sun- 
days) for  Hartford,  Conn.,  arriving  at  those  places  at 
evening.  Fare  to  Norwich,  45  miles,  $3 — to  Middle- 
town  $4 — to  Hartford,  74  miles,  $4.  A  stage  also 
leaves  Providence  twice  a  week  for  New-London, 
Conn.,  distant  59  miles,  connected  with  a  steam  boat 
line  for  New- York. 

FBOM  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEWPORT. 

Stages  leave  Providence  daily,  except  Sundays,  at  9 
A.  M.,  reaching  Bristol  at  1 1  and  Newport  at  4  P.  M. 
Fare  from  Providence  to  Bristol,  15  miles,  $1 — from 
Providence  to  Newport,  30  miles,  $2,33. 

Bristol  is  a  pleasant  town,  with  a  population  of 
about  1500  inhabitants..  The  village  is  located  on  the 
east  shore  of  the  Narraganset  bay,  affording  an  excel- 
lent harbor  for  vessels  of  the  largest  dimensions. 
About  two  miles  from  the  ferry  in  this  town  an  exten- 
sive mine  of  anthracite  coal  was  opened  a  few  years 
since,  from  which  very  considerable  quantities  are  an- 
nually taken. 


Newport  is  a  large  town,  with  an  extensive  harbor, 
which  is  defended  by  Forts  Adams  and  Dumplings  at 
its  entrance,  and  by  Fort  Wolcott  on  Goat  Island,  op- 
posite the  town.  There  is  also  a  small  battery  about 
a  mile  above  the  town,  called  Fort  Green.    The  vil- 


NEWPORT. 


49f 


Uge  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  rises  in  a  gentle  ac- 
clivity from  the  harbor,  giving  it  a  fine  appearance  when 
approached  from  the  water.  It  contains  a  state  house, 
theatre,  five  banks,  12  churches,  several  manufactories, 
and  a  population  of  about  8000. 

Newport  was  possessed  by  the  British  for  a  conside- 
rable time  during  the  revolutionary  war.    In  1778,  un- 
der an  expectation  of  aid  from  the  French  fleet,  which 
had  sailed  into  the  harbor,  an  American  force,  of  about 
10,000  strong,  commanded  by  Gen.  Sullivan,  and  aided 
by  Gen.  Lafayette,  made  preparations  for  attacking 
the  place.    On  tho  approach  of  the  Americans,  the 
British  abandoned  their  outposts  and  retreated  to  their 
works  within  the  town.     These  posts  were  immediate- 
ly possessed  by  the  Americans ;  and  the  most  flatter- 
ing prospects  existed,  that  the  allied  forces  would  be 
enabled  to  capture  the  entire  British  army.    But  the 
French  admiral,  who  had  been  a  military  oflicer,  and 
who,  by  a  previon"  trrangement,  was  to  superintend  a 
part  of  the  land  as  well  as  naval  operations,  took  of- 
fence at  some  ot  vhe  movements  of  Gen.  Sullivan,  and 
refused  a  co-operation     While  an  attempt  at  reconcil- 
iation wae*  going  forward^  a  British  fleet  suddenly  ap- 
peared off  Newport,  which  induced  the  French  admiral, 
as  a  precautionary  measure,  to  sail  out  of  the  harLor. 
A  severe  storm  coming  on,  prevented  a  n  <val  engage- 
ment ;  and  both  fleets,  being  left  in  a  shattered  condi- 
tion at  the  close  of  the  tempest,  retired — tiie  British  to 
New- York,  and  the  French  to  Newport.    During  this 
time,  Gen.  SuUivan  had  laid  siege  to  the  town  ;  and 
though  interrupted  by  the  storm,  in  which  his  army 
suffered  considerably,  he  had  succeeded  in  annoying  the 


426 


HBWrO&T. 


onetnj,  and  keeping  him  within  tho  lino  of  the  village. 
On  tho  return  of  tho  Freridi  fleet,  another  effort  was 
niado  to  induco  tho  admiral  to  co-operate  with  the 
Americans  ;  but  his  ships  had  received  so  much  injury 
in  tho  galo,  that  he  considered  it  necessary  to  repair  to 
Boston,  pursuant  to  previous  instructions  from  his  gov- 
ernment. Under  these  circumstances,  Sullivan  de- 
termined on  raising  tho  siege.  A  retreat  was  effected 
in  tho  night;  but  on  its  being  discovered  tho  next 
morning,  tho  Americans  wcro  pursued  by  the  British 
to  Ctuaker  Hill,  where  a  sharp  contest  ensued,  which 
resulted  in  the  loss  of  between  2  and  300  of  each  army. 
Sullivan  aflorwards  retreated  to  Massachuietts,  with 
little  or  no  interruption ;  and  his  retreat  was  consider- 
ed fortunate,  as  a  British  reinforcement,  which  arrived 
at  Newport  tho  day  after,  would  have  been  enabled  ef- 
fectually to  cut  him  off  from  tho  main  land. 

During  tho  possession  of  Newport  by  the  British,  a 
bold  party  of  men  under  Colonel  Barton,  landed  from  a 
boat  in  the  night,  proceeded  to  tho  enemy's  head  quar- 
ters, captured  Gen.  Prescott,  and  conveyed  him  away 
before  they  could  bo  prevented  by  tho  land  or  naval 
forces  then  in  the  harbor. 

From  its  elegant  and  healthy  situation,  its  proximity 
to  the  ocean,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  climate,' Newport, 
for  several  years,  has  been  a  place  of  considerable  re- 
sort in  tho  summer  months.  Were  there  a  direct  com- 
munication from  this  place  by  stage,  or  steam-boat,  to 
New-London,  Hartford  or  New-Haven,  Conn.it  would 
add  much  to  the  convenience  of  tourists.  But,  unfor- 
tunately for  this  purpose,  the  steam  boats  which  leave 
Providence  and  Newport  five  or  six  times  a  week  for 


KINO  I'UILIP. 


437 


Now- York,  do  not  touch  at  iiny  of  the  Connecticut 
porta ;  and,  in  order  to  reach  New-London  hy  Btage,  it 
is  necessary  to  return  to  I'rovidonco.  Those  who  have 
travelled  down  hy  land,  generally  return  hy  water. 

Passing  Fort  Green,  a  prospect  is  soon  obtained  of 
Mount  Hope,  a  few  miles  to  the  northeast  of  which  was 
tlio  former  residence  of  King  Philipj  of  the  Narragan- 
eet  tribe  of  Indians,  and  was  also  the  placo  of  his  death. 
Tho  well  known  energy  and  ontcrpriso  of  his  charac- 
ter niado  him  an  ol>ject  of  great  jealousy  and  appre- 
hension, and  he  was  accused  of  always  cherishing  a 
secret  and  implacable  hostility  towards  tho  English. 
A  rcnegado  Indian  subject  had  heightened  this  jealousy, 
by  revealing  to  tho  whites  tho  pretended  hostilo  pro- 
jects of  Philip.  This  informer  was  shortly  aflcrwards 
found  murdered  in  a  pond,  having  fallen  a  victim  to  tho 
vcngeanco  of  his  tribe.  Three  Indians,  one  of  whom 
was  a  friend  and  counsellor  of  Philip,  were  seized  by 
tho  whites,  tried,  and  on  rather  slight  grounds  execu- 
ted. This  outraged  the  pride  and  exasperated  tho  pas- 
sions of  Philip,  and  a  long  and  bloody  war  was  tho 
consequence.  Tho  whites  possessed  more  military 
skill,  were  generally  victorious,  and  PhiHp  was  driven 
from  his  paternal  domains  and  compelled  to  take  refuge 
in  the  depths  of  forests  or  tho  glooms  and  thickets  of 
swamps.  At  one  timo  ho  was  driven,  with  a  band  of 
followers,  into  the  great  swamp  of  Pocasset  Neck, 
where  tho  English  forces  did  not  dare  to  pursue  him, 
fearing  to  venture  into  these  dark  and  frightful  recesses. 
They  therefore  invested  the  entrance  into  the  neckj  and 
began  to  build  a  fort,  with  the  intention  of  starving  out 
the  foe ;  but  Philip  and  his  companions,  leaving  their 

MM 


t 


A  K«-Y  :■■ 


428 


KINO  PHILIP. 


women  and  children  behind,  wafted  themselves  on  a 
raft  over  an  arm  of  the  sea,  in  the  dtad  of  night,  and 
escaped  away  to  the  westward,  kindling  the  flames  of 
war  among  the  tribes  of  Massachusetts  and  the  Nip- 
muck  country,  and  threatening  the  colony  of  Connect- 
icut. 

One  of  the  most  faithful  friends  that  Philip  had  in  the 
time  of  his  adversity,  was  Canonchet,  chief  sachem  of 
all  the  Narragansets.  Though  he  had  forborne  to  take 
an  active  part  in  this  hopeless  war,  yet  he  received 
Philip  and  his  shattered  forces  with  open  arms,  and 
gave  him  the  most  generous  countenance  and  support. 
This  at  once  drew  on  Canonchet  the  hostility  of  the 
English ;  and  it  was  determined  to  strike  a  single  blow 
that  should  involve  both  sachems  in  a  common  ruin. 
A  great  force  was  therefore  gathered  together  from  Mas- 
sachusetts, Plymouth  and  Connecticut,  and  sent  into 
the  Narraganset  country,  in  the  depth  of  winter,  when 
the  swamps  being  frozen  and  leafless,  no  longer  af!brd« 
ed  impenetrable  fortresses  to  the  Indians.  Apprehen- 
sive of  attack,  Canonchet  had  sheltered  the  greater  part 
of  his  stores,  together  with  the  old,  the  infirm,  the  wo« 
men  and  children  of  his  tribe,  in  a  strong  fortress,  where 
he  and  Philip  had  likewise  drawn  up  the  flower  of  their 
forces.  This  fortress,  deemed  by  Uie  Indians  impreg- 
nable, was  situated  upon  a  i^ising  mound,  or  kind  of 
island,  of  five  or  six  acres,  in  the  middle  of  a  swamp, 
constructed  with  a  judgment  and  skill  vastly  superior 
to  the  usual  fortifications  of  the  Indians ;  and  indicative 
of  the  martial  genius  of  these  two  chieflains. 

Guided  by  a  renegado  Indian,  the  English  penetrat- 
ed, through  December  snows,  to  this  strong  hold,  and 


KING  FHILIP. 


429 


came  upon  the  garrison  by  surprise.  The  fight  was 
fierce  and  tumultuous.  The  assailants  were  repulsed 
in  their  first  attack ;  and  several  of  their  bravest  officers 
were  shot  down  in  the  act  of  storming  the  fortress, 
sword  in  hand.  The  assault  was  renewed  with  greater 
success ;  a  lodgment  was  effected ;  the  Indians  were 
driven  from  one  hold  to  another  ;  they  disputed  their 
ground  inch  by  inch,  fighting  with  the  fury  of  despair; 
most  of  their  veterans  were  cut  to  pieces,  and  after  a 
long  and  bloody  battle,  Philip  and  Canonchet,  with  a 
handful  of  surviving  warriors,  retreated  from  the  fort 
and  plunged  into  the  depths  of  the  surrounding  forest, 
Th  "'♦•-tors  set  fire  to  the  wigwams  and  the  fort ;  the 
w'  >  -  '/as soon  in  a  blaze;  and  many  of  the  old  men, 
the  women  and  the  children  perished  in  the  flames. 
This  last  inhuman  outrage  overcame  the  stoicism  of  the 
savage.  The  neighboring  woods  resounded  with  the 
yells  of  rage  and  despair,  uttered  by  the  fugitive  war- 
riors, as  they  beheld,  with  anguish  of  heart,  the  desola- 
tion of  their  dwellings,  and  heard  the  agonizing  ciies  of 
their  wives  and  offspring.  "  The  burning  of  the  wig- 
wams," says  a  contemporary  writer,  "  the  shrieks  and 
cries  of  the  M'omen  and  children,  and  the  yelling  of  the 
warriors,  exhibited  a  most  horrible  and  affecting  scene, 
so  thait  it  greatly  moved  some  of  the  soldiers." 

The  defeat  of  the  Narraganset  fortress,  and  the  death 
of  Canonchet,  were  fatal  blows  to  the  fortunes  of  King 
Philip.  He  made  an  ineffectual  attempt  to  raise  a  head 
<yf  war,  by  stirring  up  the  Mohawks  to  take  up  arms  ; 
but  though  possessed  of  the  native  talents  of  a  states- 
man, his  arts  were  counteracted  by  the  superior  arts  of 
his  enlightened  enemies,  and  the  terror  of  their  warlike 


li 


/i 


430 


KINO  f  unip. 


skill  began  to  subdue  the  resolution  of  the  neighboring 
tribes. 

With  a  scanty  band  of  followers,  who  still  remained 
true  to  his  desperate  fortunes,  the  unhappy  Philip  wan> 
dered  back  to  the  vicinity  of  Mount  Hope,  the  ancient 
dv/elling  of  his  fathers.  Here  he  lurked  about  like  a 
spectre,  among  the  desolated  scenes  of  former  power 
and  prosperity,  now  berefl  of  home  and  friends.  Even 
in  this  last  refuge  of  desperation  and  despair,  a  sullen 
grandeur  seems  to  gather  round  his  nicmory.  Defeat" 
ed,  but  not  dismayed — crushed  to  the  earth,  but  not  hu- 
miliated, he  seemed  to  grow  more  haughty  beneath  dis- 
aster, and  to  receive  a  fierce  satisfaction  in  draining  tho 
last  dregs  of  bitterness.  The  very  idea  of  submission 
awakened  the  fury  of  Philip,  and  he  even  smote  to  death 
one  of  his  followers  who  proposed  an  expedient  of  peace. 
The  brother  of  the  victim  made  his  escape,  and,  in  re- 
venge, betrayed  the  retreat  of  his  chieftain.  A  body  of 
white  men  and  Indians  was  immediately  dispatched  to 
the  swamp  where  Philip  lay  crouched,  glaring  with  fury 
and  despair.  Before  he  was  a^vare  of  their  approach, 
they  had  begun  to  surround  him.  In  a  little  while  ho 
saw  five  of  his  trustiest  followers  laid  dead  at  his  feet ; 
a  resistance  was  vain  ;  he  rushed  forth  from  his  covert, 
and  made  a  headlong  attempt  at  escape,,  but  was  shot 
through  the  heart  by  a  renegado  ^  'dian  of  his  own  na- 
tion. 


my» 


After  leaving  Fort  Green,  the  steam  boat  successively 
passes  Prudence,  Patience,  Hope  and  Despair  islands, 
and  Providence  is  reached  in  going  20  miles  from  tho 
northern  extremity  of  tho  latter. 


*■% 


."■"■•^iv"    -W 


FROM  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEW-LOMDON. 


431 


FROM  PROVIDENCE  TO  NEW^LCr^DON,  65^  milefi. 

The  rail  road  mentioned  at  p.  423,  is  taken  to 

Stoninoton,  48^  miles.  The  village  is  incorpora- 
ted ;  contains  a  U.  S.  arsenal,  several  factories,  a  bank, 
an  academy,  4  churches,  and  a  population  of  about  4000. 
It  has  a  good  harbor,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable 
trade. 

The  settlement  oC  the  place  commenced  as  early  as 
1649.  It  had  previously  been  a  part  of  the  territory  of 
the  Pequots,  a  powerful  and  warlike  tribe  of  Indians. 
The  early  £nglish  settlers,  in  different  parts  of  Connec- 
ticut, had  been  frequently  annoyed  by  this  tribe ;  and, 
in  1637,  it  became  necessary  to  take  efficient  steps  for 
their  expulsion.  An  expedition  was  entrusted  to  Capt. 
Mason  ;  who,  with  about  300  colonists  raised  in  Con- 
necticut and  Massachusetts,  and  200  Mohegan  pnd 
Narraganset  Indians,  encamped  on  the  night  of  the 
26th  of  May  at  a  place  called  Porter's  rocks,  a  short 
distance  from  the  present  village  of  Stonington,  and 
about  three  miles  from  one  of  the  principal  forts  of  the 
Pequotfl,  which  was  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  hill. 
Two  hours  before  day  the  little  army  was  in  motion ; 
and  on  approaching  the  fort,  it  was  found  that  the  ene- 
my, abou*,  700  strong,  were  in  a  profound  sleep,  with- 
out their  usual  watch,  having  spent  the  previous  night 
in  revelry  and  drunkenneso.  On  a  close  approxima- 
tion of  Mason's  men,  a  dog  within  the  fort  commenced 
barking,  which  awakened  one  of  the  Pequots ;  who, 
perceiving  the  approach  of  the  assailants,  aroused  his 
comrades  from  their  slumbers.    Mason  immediately 

mm2 


432 


MEW-LONDON. 


r* 


advanced,  and  through  the  apertures  of  the  palisades 
poured  in  a  fire,  and  then  rushed  in  through  a  part  of 
the  fort  slightly  barricaded.  Notwithstanding  their  con- 
fusion, the  Pequots  defended  themselves  with  bravery ; 
but  having  but  few  other  weapons  than  bows  and  ar- 
rows, they  were  unable  to  withstand  the  assailants, 
who  cut  them  down  without  mercy  with  their  swords 
and  bayonets.  To  render  the  victory  complete,  Ma- 
son ordered  their  wigwams  to  be  fired.  The  blaze 
Boon  spread  in  all  directions,  compelling  the  besieged 
to  ascend  the  palisades ;  from  whence  more  than  one 
hundred  were  shot  down  by  the  assailants  who  had 
then  surrounded  the  fort  Others,  attempting  to  break 
through  the  lines  of  the  troops,  were  either  shot  or  cut 
down,  and  several  perished  in  the  flames.  The  scene 
continued  about  an  hour,  when  it  was  found  that  sev- 
enty wigwams  had  been  destroyed,  and  that  the  ground 
was  strewed  with  the  bodies  of  between  five  and  six 
hundred  of  the  slain.  Mason's  loss  was  only  two  men 
killed  and  sixteen  wounded. 

In  August,  18 14,  a  bombardment  of  Stonington  took 
place  from  a  British  74,  a  frigate,  a  sloop  of  war  and  an 
armed  brig;  but  with  the  aid  of  two  18  pounders  and 
a  four  pounder,  the  inhabitants  defended  the  place,  pre- 
vented the  landing  of  troops  from  barges,  and  finally 
compelled  the  enemy  to  haul  ofT,  with  his  brig  consid- 
erably shattered. 


NEW-LONDON 


Is  17  miles  from  Stonington,  and  is  a  city  and  port  of 
entry.  It  has  the  best  harbor  in  Connecticut,  and  is 
defended  by  Forts  Trumbull  and  Griswold.    The  city 


■■.r.-T~'.-v^^:p-' 


--:^^ 


NBW-LONDON. 


433 


13  on  tho  west  bank  of  the  Thames,  within  3  miles  of 
its  mouth,  and  contains  a  court  house,  two  banks,  six 
churches,  and  a  population  of  about  4500  inhabitants. 
Many  of  tho  houses  on  the  heights,  back  of  the  town, 
and  a  few  in  the  city,  are  handsome ;  but  the  general 
appearance  of  the  place  is  uninteresting. 

New-London,  like  Stonington,  was  once  within  the 
territory  of  the  Pequot  Indians,  and  was  settled  at  the 
same  time.  About  4  miles  east  of  the  city,  on  what  is 
called  Fort  Hill,  this  nation  had  their  strongest  fortress. 
But  slight  remains  of  it,  however,  are  now  to  be  seen. 

In  September,  1781,  after  the  treason  of  Arnold,  an 
expedition  was  entrusted  to  his  care  against  New- Lon- 
don. A  strong  detachment  landed  on  both  sides  of  the 
harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Arnold,  who  com- 
manded in  person  the  troops  which  landed  on  the  west 
side,  immediately  advanced  against  Fort  Trumbull,  an 
adjoining  redoubt,  and  New-London.  These  posts  be- 
ing untenable,  were  abandoned  on  his  approach.  Col. 
Eyere,  who  commanded  the  detac^  ont  which  landed 
on  the  eastern  side,  proceeded  to  storm  Fort  Griswold, 
situate  on  Groton  Hill.  It  was  occupied  by  a  garrison 
of  160  men,  commanded  by  Col.  Ledyard,  apart  of 
whom  had  just  evacuated  the  works  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  Ledyard  defended  the  fort  until  the 
British  succeeded  in  entering  the  embrasures  with 
charged  bayonets.  Further  resistance  being  useless, 
Ledyard  surrendered  his  sword  to  the  British  colonel ; 
who,  in  defiance  of  every  rule  of  civilized  warfare, 
plunged  it  into  the  bosom  of  the  conquered  officer,  and 
continued  the  carnage  until  the  greater  part  of  the  gar- 
rison was  destroyed.    Eyere,  however,  lost  his  own  life 


434 


PROM  NEW-LONDON  TO  NORWICH. 


in  the  affair,  and  2U0  of  his  men  were  either  killed  or 
wounded.  New-London  was,  at  the  same  time,  set  on 
fire  b^  the  direction  of  Arnold,  and  most  of  its  build- 
ings and  all  the  public  stores  deposited  in  the  plac.) 
consumed  in  the  conflagration. 

Forts  Griswold  and  Trumbull  are  still  in  tolerable 
preservation  ;  and  were  garrisoned  by  the  government 
during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain. 

A  steam  boat  leaves  New-London  three  times  a 
week  for  New- York,  on  the  arrival  of  the  Stonington 
stage. 

Stages  also  leave  New-London  on  Tuesday,  Thurs- 
day and  Saturday  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrive  at  Hartford  at 
6  P.  M.  passing  through  Waterville,  Montville,  Salem, 
Colchester,  Hebron,  Marlborough,  Glastonbury  and 
East  Hartford.  Distance  47  miles — fare  $2.  This  is 
the  most  direct  route ;  but  the  traveller  will  find  it  inter- 
esting to  take  &  trip  up  the  Thames  to  Norwich ;  from 
whence  i  conveyance  may  be  had  to  Hartford,  as  no- 
ticed hereafter. 

FROM  NEW-LONDON  TO  NORWICH,  by  steam-boat, 

14  miles. 

Previous  to  the  settlement  of  New-London,  in  1648, 
the  Thames  was  called  the  Pequot  river ;  but  at  that 
period  it  received  its  present  name.  It  rises  in  the 
Massapaeug  pond  in  Union,  3  miles  N.  E.  of  Hartford, 
passes  into  Massachusetts,  re-enters  Connecticut,  and 
pursues  a  southerly  course  till  it  falls  into  Long  Island 
Sound.  It  is  navigable  for  large  vessels  no  farther  than 
Norwich.  During  the  late  war,  while  New-London 
was  blockaded,  the  U.  S.  ships  Macedonian,  United 


NORWICH. 


435 


States  and  Hornet,  were  moored  in  a  co? o  aboye  Mas- 
eapeaug  Point,  and  a  small  battery  erectod  for  their 

protection. 

■    *  t 

1,1  I 

MoHEOAN  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Thames,  fonr 
miles  south  of  Norwich,  and  is  the  residence  of  about 
300  Mohegan  Indians,  the  only  remnant  of  that  once 
po\/erful  tribe,  who  formerly  owned  this  section  of  coun- 
try. On  HortovCa  HiUy  not  far  from  this  place,  the  lines 
of  an  old  Indian  fort  can  still  be  traced. 

Trading  Cove,  about  1  mile  farther,  is  a  bay  extend- 
ing a  short  distance  into  what  was  once  the  Indian 
country,  and  derived  its  name  from  the  traffic  which  was 
here  carried  on  between  the  colonists  and  theMohegans. 
The  residence  of  U'ncas,  their  sachem,  and  early  friend 
of  the  whites,  was  near  this  cove,  now  the  centre  of  the 
Indian  reservation. 

NORVWCH 

Is  an  incorporated  city.  It  contains  three  compact 
settlements ;  of  which  Chelsea  Landing,  situate  at  the 
point  of  land  between  the  Shetiicket  and  Yantic  rivers, 
is  the  principal.  Its  location  is  peculiarly  romantic  ; 
and  it  is  a  place  of  much  enterprise  and  business. 
What  is  called  the  Town  is  2  miles  northwest  of  Chel- 
sea, containing  the  court  house  and  some  other  public 
buildings  ;  and  a  third  settlement  is  Bean  Hill,  in  the 
western  part  of  Norwich.  The  city  contains  a  bank, 
4  or  5  churches,  and  several  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. The  Yantic  Falls,  1  mile  from  Chelsea,  arc 
handsome,  and  afford  facilities  for  mills  and  manufac- 


436 


KORWICH. 


tones.  From  a  rock  70  or  80  feet  in  height,  which 
overhangs  the  stream,  tradition  uays  a  number  of  Nar- 
ragansets  once  precipitated  themselves  when  pursued 
bj  the  Mohegans. 

Settlements  were  commenced  at  Norw'ch  as  early 
as  1660.  A  part  of  the  town  was  first  conveyed  to  Thom- 
as Leffingwell,  a  colonial  militia  officer,  by  the  sachem 
Uncas,  in  consideration  of  services  rendered  him  in  a 
war  with  a  neighboring  tribe.  A  fort  belonging  to  Un- 
cas, on  the  Pequot  river,  was  closely  besieged  by  the 
Narragansets ;  and  the  provisions  being  nearly  ex- 
pended, it  was  reduced  to  the  last  extremity.  In  this 
fiituation,  Uncas  contrived  to  notify  the  English  at  Say- 
forook  fort  of  his  distressed  condition.  Leffingwell,  who 
commanded  that  fort,  immediately  conveyed  to  the  be- 
sieged a  supply  of  provisions ;  which  being  soon  known 
to  the  assailants,  they  were  induced  to  raise  the  seige. 
For  this  generous  conduct  of  Leffingwell,  Uncas  con- 
veyed to  him  the  land  about  the  fort,  and  afterwards 
gave  him  a  formal  deed  of  a  township,  embracing  most 
of  the  present  town  of  Norwich. 

On  an  elevated  bank  north  of  what  is  called  the  Cove, 
and  near  the  Yantic  falls,  is  the  burying  ground  of  the 
royal  family  of  the  Mohegans,  commonly  called  "  the 
burying  ground  of  the  Uncases."  Many  of  their  graves 
are  still  designated  by  coarse  stones,  on  some  of  which 
are  English  inscriptions.  Uncas  was  buried  here  and 
many  of  his  descendants ;  but  his  family  is  now  nearly 
extinct.  There  are  one  or  two  living  who  claim  a  kin- 
dred, but  who  have  very  little  of  the  magnanimity  or 
valor  for  which  he  was  so  conspicuous. 


FROM  NORWICH  TO  HARTFORD. 


437 


The  Plain  near  the  burying  ground  was  the  summer 
residence  of  the  Mohegana,  and  is  a  most  delightful 
spot 

FROM  NORWICH   TO   HARTFORD. 

Stages  leave  Norwich  in  the  morning,  and  arrive  at 
Hartford  at  8  P.  M.  Distance,  39  miles— fare  $2,50. 
The  intermediate  distances  and  places  are  as  follow : 

Bozrah, * 5 

Lebanon, 4 

Coventry, 12 


Bolton,. . . . .  • 4 

East  Hartford,  ••...••  13 
Hartford, 1 


East  Hartford,  is  located  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  directly  opposite  Hartford,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  an  elegant  bridge,  which,  including 
the  cause-way,  is  nearly  a  mile  long.  The  village  con- 
tains 4  churches,  several  manufacturing  establishmentst 
and  between  2  and  3000  inhabitants. 


•ly 
n- 
or 


HARTFORD. 

A  settlement  was  commenced  by  the  English  at  this 
place  in  1634.  The  Dutch,  from  New-Netherlands, 
had  previously  established  a  trading  house  and  a  port 
at  the  place,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  a  commerce 
with  the  Indians,  and  were  disposed  to  prevent  the 
English  from  participating  in  the  traffic.  But  finding 
that  this  could  not  be  effected,  without  a  bloody  contest, 
they  abandoned  the  design. 

The  charter  which  was  originally  granted  to  the  col- 
onists of  Connecticut,  having  been  demanded  by  the 
English  monarch  in  1686,  through  the  medium  of  an 


438 


UARTFOUD. 


agont,  it  waa  regularly  surrendered  by  the  colonial 
legislature.  'Hub  took  place  in  an  evening ;  and  while 
it  remained  on  a  tabic  in  a  room  where  an  agent  and 
several  BritiBh  oflicers  had  assembled,  tlio  windows  be- 
ing open,  on  a  preconcerted  signal,  the  candlus  were 
extinguished  by  persons  in  the  street,  and  the  charter 
seized  by  a  citizen  in  the  room,  and  conveyed  to  a  tree ; 
in  the  cavity  of  which  it  remained  for  several  years* 
This  tree  is  still  standing  ;  and  is  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Charier  Oak.  It  is  located  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  town,  in  the  street  running  cast  from  the  south 
church,  and  is  directly  in  front  of  the  ancient  mansion 
of  the  Wyllis  family.  The  charter  is  still  preserved  in 
the  office  of  the  secretary  of  state. 

Hartford  is  now  the  largest  city  in  the  state.  It  is  lo* 
cated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  at  the 
head  of  sloop  navigation,  and  50  miles  from  its  mouth. 
The  city  is  handsomely  laid  out,  and  contains  a  number 
of  elegant  buildings  and  private  residences.  Among 
its  public  buildings,  are  a  state  house,  arsenal,  3  banks, 
a  museum,  an  academy,  a  college,  an  asylum  for  the 
deaf  and  dumb,  an  asylum  for  the  insane,  and  12  church- 
es.   Popolation  about  14,000. 

Washingtm  College  is  in  Main  street,  in  the  south  part 
of  the  city.  It  was  opened  in  1824,  and  consists  of  two 
edifices ;  one  of  which  is  150  feet  long  and  4  stories 
high,  and  contains  the  rooms  of  the  students.  In  the 
other  is  the  chapel,  recitation  rooms  and  library. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  ^tylum  is  on  Tower  Hill,  one 
mile  west  of  the  city ;  and  was  the  first  institution  of  the 
kind  cstAblisbed  in  the  United  States.    The  permanent 


lone 
the 
lent 


HARTFORD. 


439 


fund  of  the  institution,  including  a  donation  of  land  by 
congress,  amountn^to  ||215,539,  of  which  sum  ^80,000 
are  available.  The  number  of  pupils  is  generally  about 
70,  many  of  whom  are  supported  by  public  and  private 
charities. 

A  visit  to  the  institution  is   unusually  interesting. 
The  utmost  order  and  decorum  prevail ;  and  the  stran- 
ger will  be  delighted  with  means  here  en~;)loyed  for 
enlightening  and  cultivating  the  minds  of  an  unfortu- 
nate class  of  the  community ;  and  with  the  rapid  im" 
provement  they  make,  not  only  in  writing,  but  in  a  stuiiy 
of  .many, of  the  sciences.    Everything  is  communicat- 
ed by  means  of  signs.     Afrer  being  taught  the  mode 
of  conveying  the  most  necessary  ideas,  they  proccc».  to 
study  the  alphabet  employed  at  the  institution  ;  tiien 
the  names  of  visible  objects,  and  the  order  of  the  letters 
used  in  designating  them  ;  and  finally  a  knowledge  of 
absent  objects  and  abstract  ideas,  by  means  of  ingenious 
devices  and  definitions.    Many  soon  attain  a  knowl. 
edge  of  writing  conectly;  and  some  are  enabled  to 
communicate  their  ideas  in  chaste  and  even  elegant  lan- 
guage. 

The  J^ew  Exchange  BuUdingSf  on  the  r-^mer  of  Main 
and  State  streets,  are  deserving  of  notice  i  ^  a  specimen 
of  good  taste,  and  as  ornamental  to  the  city. 

The  J^exo  City  Hall  is  an  elegant  structure,  creditable 
to  the  taste  and  munificence  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  ^ew  EpUcopal  Church,  and  the  High  School  in 
Washington  street,  occupy  a  prominent  place.  The 
latter  is  delightfully  situated  on  a  commanding  emi- 
nence, and  ranks  in  spaciousness  and  beauty  with  the 
most  favored  establishments  of  the  kind  in  other  cities. 

MN 


440 


HARTFORD. 


The  Episcopal  Church  is  a  monument  of  liberal  public 
spirit  guided  by  good  tastC|  and  is  surpassed  in  design 
and  e:iecution  by  few,  if  any  similar  buildings  in  our 
country. 

The  Hospital  for  the  Insane^  is  a  stone  building,  150 
feet  long  and  50  wide,  4  stories  high,  with  wings  of  3 
stories.    It  is  located  a  little  south  of  the  city. 

Hartford  has  undergone  a  surprising  change  within 
a  few  yeirs.  Its  streets  have  been  greatly  improved  ; 
many  of  its  old  buildings  have  given  place  to  new  and 
elegant  dwellings,  and  the  whole  appearance  of  the 
city  exhibits  an  unusual  degree  of  enterprise  and  pros- 
perity. 

STEAM-BOATS. 

A  steam  boat  leaves  Hartford  for  New- York  daily  at 
11  A.  M.  reaching  New- York  the  next  morning  ;  and 
leaves  New- York  daily  at  4  P.  M.  reaching  Hartford 
the  next  day  at  noon — fare  3,50. 

STAGES. 

To  J^Tew-Haven*  mid  Jfew-  York. — 'A  stage  leaves  Hart- 
ford every  morning,  (Sundays  excepted)  which  reaches 
N*iW-Haven  at  noon,  and  New- York  the  next  morning. 
Fare  to  New-Haven,  40  miles,  $2 ;  to  New- York,  123 
miles,  $3,50. 

To  B'^'^lon — A  stage  leaves  on  Monday,  Wednesday 
and  Friday,  at  12  M.and  reaches  Boston  at  2  P.  M.  the 
next  day.    Distance,  136  miles — fare  $5. 


'*'  A  rail  road  is  now  constructing  between  Hartford 
and  New-Haven. 


FROM  HARTFORD   TO  NEW-HAVEN. 


441 


To  Litchfield^  Ct. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  daily  at 
8  A.  M.  and  arrives  at  Litchfield  at  3  P.  M. — Distance 
30  miles,  fare  $2. 

To  HanoveVj  JV*.  H.  {up  Connecticut  river. ) — A  stage 
leaves  Hartford  daily,  (except  Sundays)  arrives  at 
Brattleborough,  Vt.  the  first  day,  and  Hanover,  N.  H. 
the  second — passing  through  Windsor,  Ct.  Springfield, 
Northampton,  Deerfield,  and  GreenfieUl,  Mass.  Brat- 
tleborough and  Westminster,  VtWalpole  and  Charles- 
town,  N.  H.  Windsor  and  Hartford,  Vt.  to  Hanover. 
[This  line  intersects  the  daily  stage  for  Boston  at 
Northampton,  and  the  daily  stnge  for  Saratoga  Springs 
at  Charlestown.j  Distance  from  Hartford  to  Hanover, 
152  miles — fare  $7,25. 

To  ^ew-London. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  on  Mon- 
day,  Wednesday  and  Friday,  at  7  A.  M.  and  reaches 
New-London  at  2  P.  M. — Distance  47  miles — fare  $2. 

To  Albany. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  and  Albany  ev- 
ery morning  (Sundays  excepted)  at  2,  and  arrives  at 
each  place  at  7  P,  M. — Distance  96  miles— fare  $5, 

FROM  HARTFORD  TO  NEW-HAVEN,  40  milcS. 

The  intermediate  places  and  distances  are  as  follows : 


MUes. 

Wethersfielcl, 4 

Rocky  Hill, 3 

Middletown, 8 


Miles, 

Durham, 7 

Northford, 8 

New-Haven, 10 


Wetmersfiet.d  is  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  4  miles  below  Hartford.  The  soil, 
which  is  of  the  finest  order,  is  principally  devoted  to  the 
culture  cf  onions ;  of  which  large  quantities  are  export- 


44d 


MIDDLETOWN. 


«d  annually.  The  labor  is  principally  performed  by 
women  and  children.  The  new  penitentiary  of  the 
state  is  erected  at  this  place. 

Rocky  Hill,  3  miles  ;  a  parish  in  the  town  of  Wcth- 
crsfield,  containing  a  lofty  eminence,  from  which  a  rich 
and  variegated  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country  is 
enjoyed.  Six  miles  farther  is  a  village,  called  Middle- 
town  Upper  Houses ;  from  which  to  the  city  of  Middle- 
town  is  2  miles. 


MIDDLETOWJ* 

la  a  port  of  entry,  and  is  handsomely  located  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  31  miles  from  its 
mouth.  Among  its  public  buildings  are  a  court  house, 
jail,  alms-house,  2  banks,  7  churches,  and  a  university 
sustained  by  the  Methodists.  There  are  also  several 
extensive  manufactories  of  rifles,  swords,  buttons,  ivo- 
ry combs,  woollen  and  cotton  goods^  .xc.  The  popula- 
tion of  the  city  is  about  8000. 

The  Wcskyan  Universityj  founded  in  1831,  is  an  insti- 
tution of  great  promise,  under  the  patronage  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  church.  Its  buildings  are  eligibly 
situated,  on  a  hill  adjacent  to  the  city,  and  command  a 
fine  view  of  the  surroundini^  couniry.  It  possesses  a 
valuable  library,  cabinet  of  minerals,  chemical  and  phi- 
losophir  I  apparatus,  &c. 

On  the  east  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  opposite  to 
Middletown,  are  several  quarries  of  free  stone,  used  for 
building.  Immediately  below  the  city,  the  river  turns 
abruptly  to  the  west ;  and  passes  between  two  lofty 
hills,  forming  what  arc  called  the  Narrows.    Within 


MIDDLETOWN. 


443 


the 


these  Narrows,  on  me  south  oanic  ot  tne  river, 
mine,  which  was  used  during  the  revolutionary  war. 
It  can  be  approached  only  in  boats  or  by  means  of  a 
foot  path.* 

In  proceeding  on  the  stage  route  to  New-Haven,  the 
only  object  witnessed  worthy  of  remark,  is  a  natural 
ice  house  in  the  parish  of  Northfield,  18  miles  from 
Middletown,  and  7  from  New- Haven.  It  is  on  the  de- 
clivity of  a  trap  ridge  near  the  road,  and  contains  ice 
throughout  the  year. 

A  natural  ice  house  of  still  greater  extent  is  in  the 
town  of  Meriden,  on  another  route  from  Hartford  to 
New-Haven,  and  nearly  equi-distant  from  those  places. 
It  is  in  a  country  composing  a  part  of  the  secondary 
trap  region  of  Connecticut,  and  is  marked  by  numer- 
ous distinct  ridges  of  green  stone,  which  present  lofty 
mural  precipices,  and  from  their  number,  contiguity 
and  parallelism,  they  often  form  narrow  precipitous  de- 
files, filled  more  or  less  with  fragments  of  rocks  of  va- 
rious sizes,  from  that  of  a  hand-stone  to  that  of  a  cot- 
tage. 


*  Continuing  a  course  down  the  river,  the  steam  boat 
successively  passes  Middle  Haddam,  Haddam,  East 
Haddam,  Essex  or  Pettipaug,  and  Saybrook,  where  tho 
river  enters  Long  Island  Sound.  The  shores  are  gen- 
erally bold  and  rocky,  and  present  but  few  objects  of 
interest.  Saybrook  was  the  first  town  settled  on  the 
river ;  at  which  time  (1635)  a  small  fort  was  erected  at 
the  place.  The  town  was  originally  granted  to  Lord 
Say  and  Seal,  Lord  Brook  and  others,  and  derived  its 
name  from  these  proprietors.  Yale  college  was  locat- 
ed here  for  a  time,  and  afterwards  removed  to  New- 
Haven. 

nn2 


444 


NEW-HATEN. 


It  is  in  tho  cavities  beneath  theso  masses  of  rock  that 
the  ice  is  formed.  The  ground  descends  a  little  to  tho 
south,  and  a  small  brook  appears  to  have  formed  a 
channel  among  tho  rocks.  The  ice  is  thick  and  well 
consolidated,  and  its  gradual  melting,  in  the  warm  sea- 
son, causes  a  stream  of  ice-cold  water  to  issue  from 
this  defile.  This  fact  has  been  known  to  the  people  of 
the  vicinity  for  several  generations,  and  the  youth  have, 
since  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  been  accustomed 
to  resort  to  this  place  in  parties  for  recreation,  and  to 
drink  the  waters  of  the  cold  flowing  brook. 


NEW-HAVEN, 

Twenty-five  miles  from  Middleto'.vn,  is  usually  pro- 
nounced by  travellers  to  be  one  ot  the  handsomest 
towns  in  tho  Union.  It  is  located  around  a  harbor 
which  sets  up  about  4  miles  from  Long  Island  Sound, 
and  is  the  semi-capital  of  the  state.  The  city  is  built 
on  a  largo  plain,  encircled  on  all  sides  except  those  oc- 
cupied by  the  water,  by  hills  and  lofty  mountains.  It 
is  divided  into  two  parts,  called  the  old  and  new  town- 
ships, in  each  of  which  is  an  open  square.  The  hou- 
ses are  generally  neat,  and  aome  are  very  elegant.  To 
each  dwelling  there  is  generally  attached  a  garden,  and 
frequently  a  beautiful  yard  in  front.  Added  to  which 
several  of  the  streets  arc  adorned  with  lofty  trees,  giv- 
ing the  whole  a  rural  and  most  delightful  appearance. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  state  house,  the  col- 
lege edificer ,  6  churches,  a  court  house,  jail,  2  banks,  a 
custom  house  and  3  or  4  academies.  The  population 
is  between  12  and  14,00X 


NEW-UAVEN. 


445 


'k'he  Public  Square  or  Green^  near  the  centre  of  the 
city,  ia  an  elegant  spot,  contcining  several  acres,  and 
is  surrounded  by  stately  elms.  In  the  centre  are  three 
churches  and  the  state  house ;  on  the  west  side,  the 
college  buildings ;  and  on  the  east  side,  frontring  the 
state  house,  the  Tontine  Coffee  House.  The  space 
immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  churches,  called  the  Up- 
per Green,  was  formerly  used  as  a  burying  ground ;  but 
in  1821  the  monuments  were  removed  to  the  new  bu- 
rying ground,  in  the  north-western  part  of  the  city. 
The  ancient  monument  of  Dixwell  {see  p.  352)  is  still 
to  be  seen,  and  it  is  believed  by  many  that  the  other 
regicides,  Goffe  and  Whalley,  were  also  interred  here  ; 
but  this  opinion  is  unsupported  by  evidence.  Goffe 
died  at  Hadley,  and  was  probably  buried  there  ;  and  of 
Whalley  no  certain  information  was  ever  obtained  af- 
ter he  left  Hadley. 

Yale  College  was  founded  in  1701,  and  was  named 
after  its  early  benefactor,  Elihu  Yale,  governor  of  tho 
East  India  Company.  It  was  originally  located  at  Kil- 
lingworth ;  afterwards  removed  to  Say  brook,  {see  p, 
443  ;)  and  from  thence,  in  1717,  to  New-Haven.  The 
faculty  is  composed  of  a  president,  10  professors,  a  li- 
brarian and  8  tutors.  The  library  consists  of  about 
10,000  volumes  ;  and  the  literary  societies  anr.  igthe 
students  have  librancs  amounting,  collectively,  to  5000 
more.  The  cabinet  of  minerals  is  very  extensive,  and 
by  far  the  most  valuable  of  any  in  the  Union.  The 
college  buildings  consist  of  f  .ur  spacious  edifices,  each 
4  stories  high,  104  feet  long  and  40  wide,  i  id  each  con- 
taining 32  rooms  for  students  ;  two  chapels,  one  con- 
taining a  philosophical  chamber ;  a  Lyceum,  con^ain- 


I 


um 


446 


WEST    ROCK. 


ing  the  library  and  recitation  rooms — all  of  brick  ;  and 
a  hnndsome  dining  hall  in  the  rear  of  tJ)C  other  binid- 
ings,  built  of  ytone.  Seven  of  these  buiklin,^!!  starvi  in 
a  line  fronting  the  green,  the  Lyceum  occnpyuig  a  cen- 
tral posiiion  ;  and  the  whole,  wit  1;  the  r5iF,.riiain^  set  le- 
ry  around,  form  a  most  enchantiug  and  '"ilegant  land- 
scape. The  meJical  institu'son  fronting  College  street 
is  connected  with  l.he  college,  and  has  a  valuable  ana- 
tomical museum.  The  nun^her  of  Btiiuents  at  Yale  is 
generallj  from  450  to  500.  Tlie  iluv.mi  of  the  io^titu- 
iion  nmo'inted,  in  1826,  to  upwaids  of  4000 — ofv^nom 
inovG  thnii  2200  were  then  living. 

'The  J^'^nc  Burying  Ground^  containing  several  acres, 
is  di\  /  ed  into  parallelograms,  which  are  subdivided  for 
fwmilies.  The  ground  is  planted  with  trees,  mostly 
willows  ;  and  the  white  monuments,  several  of  which 
are  obelisks,  seen  through  the  foliage,  with  the  taste 
and  uniformity  every  where  discovered,,  give  to  the 
whole  !i  most  impressive  and  solemn  appearance. 

The  Tontine  Coffee  House  is  one  of  the  best  establish- 
ments of  the  kind  in  the  U.  S.  It  is  located  directly  in 
front  cf  the  state  house  and  college  edifices,  the  public 
square  intervening,  commanding  from  its  upper  or 
fourth  story  a  beautiful  and  extensive  view  of  the  city 
and  the  surrounding  country.  The  Tontine,  whichi  is 
built  of  brick,  is  80  feet  long,  with  a  wing  extendiLsr 
back  100  feet.  It  contains  a  spacious  dining  hall,  co- 
tillion room,  8  private  and  public  parlours,  and  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  lodging  chambers  to  accommodate 
from  80  to  100  guests. 

West  Rock  is  2  miles  north-west  o^  N  -i  w-Haven.  It 
is  the  southern  extremity  of  the  east  of  the  Green 


FARMINOTON   CANAL. 


447 


Mountains,  and  is  a  perpendicular  bluff  fronting  the 
south,  400  feet  in  height.  The  village  of  Hotchkiss- 
townisatits  foot.  The  cave  in  which  the  regicide 
judges,  Whalley  &  Goffe,  secreted  themselves  for  three 
or  four  years,  {see  p,  352,)  is  on  the  summit  of  the  rock, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  bluff.  The  cave  is  formed  by 
the  crevices  between  several  large  rocks,  apparently 
thrown  together  by  some  convulsion,  and  is  entirely 
above  g/ound.  Near  the  top  of  one  of  the  rocks  is  this 
inscription  :  "  Opposition  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to 
God."  During  the  continuance  of  the  regicides  at  this 
place,  they  were  furnished  daily  with  food  by  a  family 
who  resided  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

East  Rock  is  2  miles  north-east  of  New-Haven,  and 
is  the  southern  termination  of  the  Mount-Tom  range  of 
mountains.  It  is  370  feet  high,  and  from  its  top  a  fine 
view  is  had  of  New-Haven,  its  harbor,  the  Sound  and 
Long  Island.  It  was  for  some  years  the  residence  of  a 
hermit,  who  was  found  dead  in  his  habitation  a  few 
years  since. 

The  Farmington  Canal,  which  was  originally  com- 
menced at  the  north  line  of  the  state,  terminates  at 
New-Haven — distance  58  miles,  lockage  218  feet.  This 
f  anal  hus  si.ice  been  extended  to  Northampton,  Mass. 
between  20  and  30  miles  farther ;  and  a  branch  has 
been  constructed  from  Farmington  up  the  Farming- 
ton  river,  to  New-Hartford,  15  miles. 

The  towns  bordering  on  the   Sound,  near  New- 

Elav  n,  Kio  visitc  •  in  the  summer  months  by  numerous 

in'"nlius  for  iiii  benefit  of  the  sea  breeze  and  a  salubri- 

us  climate.    Anjcng  these  towns,  Guilford,  15  miles 

^st  of  New-Haven,  is  gencji  ally  preferred.    It  has  two 


448 


FROM  ;;ew-haven  to  new-tork. 


harbors,  is  a  placo  of  considerable  trade,  and  is  con- 
stantly supplied  with  the  best  of  oysters,  lobsters  and 
fish,  taken  in  and  near  the  habors. 

Sleam  Boats  ply  between  New-Haven  and  N.  York 
daily,  leaving  the  former  place  at  8  P.  M.  and  the  latter 
at  7  A.  M.  The  passage  is  generally  performed  in  8 
or  9  hours.    Fare  $2, 

Stages  leave  New-Haven  daily  for  Hartford,  Boston, 
Albany  and  New- York.  Distance  to  Hartford  40 
miles;  to  Boston,  136  miles;  to  Albany,  110  miles; 
to  New- York,  86  miles.* 


ces. 


*  This  route  is  usually  performed  in  12  or  14  hours, 
and  the  intervening  places  and  distances  are  as  fol- 
low ; 


MUes. 

Stratford, * 13 

Bridgeport, 3 

Fairfield, 5 

Norwalk, 10 


Stamford, 11 

Greenwich, 6 

Harloem, 30 

New- York, 8 


Bridgeport  is  handsomely  situated  on  both  banks 
of  the  Pughquo7>nuck  river.'  The  village  contains  a 
bank  and  two  churches. 

Fairfield  k  a  port  of  entry  on  Long  Island  Sound, 
containing  a  court  house,  academy,  several  churches, 
and  a  populatioji  of  about  2000.  It  was  on  a  low  lev- 
el piece  of  ground,  whicl'  is  seen  on  the  left  side  of  the 
road,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  after  leaving  the  village, 
that  the  remnant  of  the  Pequot  tribe  of  Indians,  after 
the  destruction  of  their  fort  by  Capt.  Mason  at  Mystic, 
{see  p.  431,)  were  either  killed  or  captured.  The  battle 
was  severe  and  bloody,  and  some  fe''"s  of  arms  used 


FROM  KEW-UAVEN  TO  LITCHFIELD. 


449 


PROM  NEW-HAVEN  TO  LITCHFIELD. 

A  stage  leaves  New-Haven  daily  for  Litchfield,  pass- 
ing through  Waterbury  and  Watertown— distance  38 
miles. 

Passing  West  Rock,  {see  p.  446,)  and  proceeding 
from  thence  for  a  considerable  distance  in  a  northerly 
direction,  through  a  beautiful  valley,  having  on  its  right 
a  lofty  rocky  barrier,  with  rude  perpendicular  precipi- 
ces, Beacon  Mountain  is  reached  in  travelling  14  miles 
from  New-Haven.  This  mountain  is  a  ridge  of  almost 
naked  rocks  stretching  to  the  southwest.  "  The  road, 
which  is  formed  in  the  natural  gap  of  the  mountain, 
here  winds  through  a  bold  gulf  or  defile,  so  narrow, 
that  at  one  place  only  a  single  carriage  can  pass  at 
once.  On  both  sides,  the  cliffs  are  loft^,  particularly 
on  the  left ;  and  on  the  right,  a  lit'^o  distance  from  the 


in  the  contest  ore  at  this  day  occasionally  found  by  the 
inhabitants. 

NoRWALK  is  on  the  Sound,  nud  is  a  pleasant  village, 
containing  an  academy  and  3  churches. 

West  Chester  County,  which  is  entered  in  a  few 
miles  after  leaving  Greenwich,  and  which  was  "  neu- 
tral ground"  during  the  revolutionary  war,  was  selected 
by  Mr.  Cooper,  the  novelist,  as  the  principal  scene  cf 
his  «  Spy." 

At  Horseneck,  3n  miles  from  N.  York,  the  traveller 
is  shown  the  steep,  down  which  Gen.  Putnam  descend- 
ed on  horse-back  during  the  revolution. 

At  Harljem,  8  miles  from  New- York,  the  road  pass- 
es ner*   the  East  river,    iTbrding  the  traveller  a  view  of 

Hu  7i  r..  i>  aTE.    (  See  jt.  1  ii4, ) 


450 


LITCIiriCLD. 


road,  they  overhang  in  a  frightful  manner."  Beyond 
this  ga\  *))(  .'oti<l  turns  moro  to  tho  left,  running  along 
ariv'.ilot;  ami  vfter  Ihruc  or  four  miles,  on  rising  an 
eminence,  tho  Naugatuck,  a  branch  of  tlio  Ilouaatonic 
rivor,  is  discovored.  It  runs  tiirough  a  docp  and  narrow 
gulf,  which  is  seen  from  tho  road. 

Watertown,  26  miles  from  Ncw-Havon,  is  on  a 
commanding  hill,  and  iu  a  beautiful  little  village,  con- 
taining: two  churches. 


Litchfield  is  on  a  handjomo  eminence,  and  is  con-' 
sidcred  ono  of  tho  moot  pleasant  villages  in  tho  state. 
Tho  principal  street  extends  more  than  a  mile  in  length, 
and  contains  a  collection  of  neat  houses,  adorned  with 
giirdens  and  court  yards.  Among  the  public  buildings 
are  a  court  house,  jail,  bank  and  two  churciice.  There 
is  also  at  this  place  a  young  ladies'  school,  which  has 
obtained  much  celebrity  ;  and  a  distinguished  law 
scliool,  established  in  1784,  by  the  late  Tapping  Reeve, 
and  now  under  the  charge  of  the  Hon.  James  Gould. 
The  number  of  students  educated  at  this  institution 
since  its  cstablir.hment  is  between  C  and  700. 

Mount  Tonif  near  the  south-west  corner  of  this  town 
is  700  feet  above  the  river  at  its  base,  and  affords  from 
its  top  aii  extensive  proc^pect. 

The  Great  Pond  m  Litchfield,  comprises  on  area  of 
about  900  acres,  is  the  'argcst  in  tho  state,  and  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  '<  *er,  aflfording  at  its  outlet  a  num- 
ber of  valuable  mih  cites. 

•^  Chalybeate  Spying  has  been  discovered  within  u 
few  years,  on  the  east  side  of  Mount  Prospect,  four 


I-ROM  LITCnriKI.D  TO  HARTFORD. 


451 


miles  weit  of  the  village  of  Litchfiold.  It  issues  from 
an  extensive  bed  of  sulphuret  of  iron,  and  is  copious 
and  perronnial,  exhibiting  in  its  course  much  oxide  of 
iron,  ochre,  and  a  white  deposit. 

Mount  Prospect,  is  a  rocky,  wood  clad,  elevated  ridge, 
of  two  miles  extent.  From  its  summit  an  interesting 
and  diversified  view  is  presented  of  villages  and  lakes, 
and  of  a  well  cultivated,  healthy  country. 

From  Litchfield,  a  stage  may  be  taken  daily,  passing 
through  East  Goshen,  Norfolk,  Canaan,  Sheffield,  Great 
Barrington,  West  Stockbridgc,  Chatham,  Nassau,  Scho* 
dack  and  Grcenbush  to  Albany,  and  reaching  the  latter 
place  in  about  24  hours.  Distance  72  miles — fare  $4. 
This  is  the  most  direct  route,  also,  from  Litchfield  to 
Saratoga  Springs ;  but,  to  make  the  tour  of  New-Eng- 
land  more  complete,  it  is  recommended  to  proceed  from 
Litchfield  to  Hartford,  and  from  thence  v.p  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Connecticut  river,  which  is  variegated  with 
villages  and  country  seats,  and  presents  some  of  the 
finest  scenery  on  tho  continent. 


FROM  LITCHFIELD  TO  HARTFORD. 

A  stage  may  be  taken  at  Litchfield  daily,  except 
Sundays,  at  4  A.  M.  passing  through  Harwintt^n,  Bur- 
lington and  Farmington,  and  reaching  Hartford  at  1 1 
A.  M.    Distance  30  miles— fare  $2. 


n  tt 
four 


Harwintom  is  a  small  village,  7  miles  from  Litch- 
field, on  the  Naugatuck  river. 

Burlington,  7  miles. 

00 


452 


ROUTE  UP  THB  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


Farmington,  6  miles.  This  is  a  pleasant  village, 
located  on  the  Farmington  river,  which,  after  leaving  the 
village,  takes  a  northerly  course  for  1 5  miles,  where  it 
is  joined  by  the^Salmon  river.  It  then  turns  to  the 
southeast,  passing  between  lofty  mountains,  and  de- 
scends a  cataract  of  150  feet;  afler  which  it  is  called 
the  Windsor  river,  and  joins  the  Connecticut  4  miles 
above  Hartford.  Farmington  contains  3  churches  and 
a  population  of  between  2  and  3000.  [For  a  notice  «f 
the  Farmington  canal,  which  passes  through  this  place, 
see  page  349.] 


<-  * 


Hartford,  10  miles.    (Seep.  437.) 

BOUTE  UP  THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  CONNECTICUT 

RIVER. 

Stages  run  daily  between  Hartford,  Conn,  and  Han- 
over, N.  H.  up  the  Connecticut  river,  as  noticed  at  page 
441.  Passing  through  East  Hartford,  (see/). 437,)  the 
first  village  reached  is 


Windsor,  7  miles  from  Hartford,  located  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  river.  Settlements  were  commenced 
at  this  place  as  well  as  at  Hartford,  in  1633. 


river. 


Enfield,  9  miles.  A  canal  has  been  constructed 
around  the  falls  at  this  place,  of  sufficient  dimensions 
to  receive  steam-boats ;  and  they  now  pass  as  far  up 
as  Springfield  without  difficulty,  and  except  in  very 
low  water,  for  a  considerable  distance  above  Windsor, 
Vt.    This  canal  commences  at  the  head  of  the  Falls, 


•i^l^r^-'frr--  yw 


ENFIELD. 


4fy3 


by  a  wing  dam  700  feet  long,  which  reaches  to  the  mid- 
dle of  the  river.  From  the  lower  end  of  the  wing  dam 
a  pier  extends  down  200  feet  parallel  to  and  100  feet 
from  the  west  bank,  and  is  raised  above  the  river  so  as 
to  form  a  basin  and  safe  entrance  to  the  guard  lock. 
At  right  angles  to  this  pier,  a  breast  wall  of  solid  ma- 
sonry, strengthened  by  buttresses,  extends  70  feet 
towards  the  bank,  and  is  there  united  to  the  guard  lock  • 
This  and  the  breast  wall  are  sixteen  feet  higher  than 
the  surface  of  the  water  in  the  canal,  presenting  a  firm 
defence  against  the  highest  floods.  The  breast  wall 
covers  twelve  sluices,  with  sliding  gates,  for  the  free 
admission  of  water  for  hydraulic  purposes.  The  river 
banks  are  generolly  high  and  rocky,  for  about  three 
miles  below  the  guard  lock,  and  the  canal  is  formed  by 
an  embankment  of  earth  raised  in  the  bed  of  the  river, 
and  protected  on  the  outside  by  a  stone  wall.  Two 
miles  below  the  guard  lock.  Mill  brook  crosses  the  line 
of  the  canal,  and  is  passed  by  an  aqueduct  90  feet 
long-  and  60  feet  wide,  having  6  piers  and  abutments  of 
substantial  masonry.  The  height  of  the  artificial  em- 
bankment increases  gradually,  as  it  passes  down  the 
river,  until  it  rises  to  a,  perpendicular  elevation  of  25 
feet,  when  the  high  river  bank  ^cti-ei:  io  the  west,  and 
the  canal  is  carried  about  two  miles  over  land  to  its  ter- 
mination below  the  falls.  Here  are  three  locks  of  ma- 
sonry of  ten  feet  lift  each.  The  locks  are  separated  by 
pools  50  feet  wide,  in  which  ascending  and  descend- 
ing boats  may  pass  each  other,  without  the  detention 
which  is  unavoidable  where  several  locks  are  combined 
in  a  connected  line.  The  dimensions  of  the  locks  are 
90  feet  by  20  in  the  clear,  and  they  are  calculated  to 


k-jH^. 


454 


SUFFIELD— SPRINGriELD« 


have  four  feet  depth  of  water.  The  depth  of  the  canal 
varies  from  four  to  twenty  feet  The  average  width,  at 
the  surface  of  the  water,  is  about  seventy  feet  and  the 
total  length  five  and  a  half  miles. 

SuFFiELD,  1  mile  from  Enfield,  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  river,  is  a  beautiful  town.  The  village,  which  is  on 
an  eminence  about  a  mile  west  of  the  river  road,  is 
composed  principally  of  one  street,  half  a  mile  in  ex- 
tent. The  houses,  with  their  handsome  gardens  and 
yards,  present  a  picturesque  and  elegant  appearance. 
A  sulphur  spring,  a  mile  or  two  southwest  of  the  village, 
is  a  place  of  some  resort  by  invalids. 

West  Springfield,  9  miles,  is  located  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  and  contains  several 
handsome  private  dwellings.  A  bridge  here  crosses  the 
river,  connecting  the  place  with 

Springfield,  on  the  opposite  side ;  which  is  a  large 
and  handsome  village.  The  houses  are  principally  lo- 
cated at  the  foot  of  a  hill ;  on  the  west  side  of  which  are 
several  elegant  residences,  and  on  the  summit  a  U.  S. 
arsenal.  The  village  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  five 
churches,  and  several  manufactories. 

The  buildings  composing  the  arsenal  on  the  heights^ 
occupy  a  large  square,  and  are  surrounded  by  a  high 
wall.  They  are  mostly  built  of  brick  and  present  a 
magnificent  appearance.  Abuut  13,000  irnskets  are 
manufactured  here  annually.  The  water  works  em- 
ployed for  the  purpose  are  on  Mill  river,  a  mile  south 
of  ths  arsenal. 


SPRINGFIELD. 


455 


* 

h 
a 
e 


Springfield  became  the  theatre  of  savage  barbarity 
during  Philip's  war  in  1 675.     The  towns  still  further  up 
the  river  had,  for  some  time  previous,  suffered  severely 
from  repeated  Indinn  incursions.    But  the  Springfield 
tribe  had  thus  far  remained  quiet ;  and  it  was  not  i>\\ 
the  month  of  October  of  this  year,  that  Philip  could 
succeed  by  his  artifices  to  enlist  them  in  his  favor.    On 
the  night  of  the  4t.h,  it  was  asrertained  by  means  of 
a  friendly  Indian,  that  300  of  theiribe  had  suddenly  and 
secretly  assembled  at  a  fort  on  Long  Hill,  about  a  mile 
below  the  village.    This  intelligence  produced  much 
consternation  among  the  inhabitants  ;  and  they  imme- 
diately repaired  to  their  fortified  houses.    No  distur- 
bance, however,  occurring  in  the  night,  hopes  were  en- 
tertained that  hostilities  were  not  intended  on  the  part 
of  the  Indians.     Lieut.  Cooper,  the  commandant  of  the 
place,  and  another,  accordingly  resolved  on  repairing 
to  the  fort,  for  the  purpose  of  dissipating  the  A:ars  that 
still  existed  among  the  inhabitants.    Having  reached 
the  small  stream  at  the  lower  part  of  the  village,  Coop- 
er and  his  companions  were  shot  by  Indians  who  were 
concealed  in  the  woods.    This  seemed  to  be  a  signal 
for  attack ;  as  the  whole  body  immediately  rushed  into 
the  town  with  a  horrid  yell,  and  set  fire  to  the  unforti- 
fied dwellings  and  barns.    The  whole  were  soon  en- 
veloped in  flames  and  consumed.    During  this  period, 
a  fire  was  kept  up  from  the  fortified  houses  upon  the 
Indians,  and  several  killed  ;  but  it  was  not  till  they  had 
destroyed  32  dwellings  and  nearly  as  many  barns,  and 
plundered  every  thing  within  their  reach,  that  they 
withdrew.     A  brick  house  standing  at  the  time  of  this 
catastrophe,  is  still  in  tolerable  preservation. 

oo2 


■¥'[ 


■■'M 


456 


HATFIELD. 


*  During  the  rebellion  of  Shays,  in  1786,  the  armory  .  t 
this  place  was  attacked  by  him ;  but  he  was  repulset 
with  the  loss  of  a  few  men,  and  his  followers  subse- 
quently dispersed. 

Pursuing  the  course  of  the  river  on  the  west  side, 
over  a  beautiful  country, 

South  Hadlet  Falls  are  reached  in  going  12  miles 
from  Springfield.  The  river  here  descends  in  the  dis- 
tance of  two  and  a  half  miles,  52  feet ;  and  on  the  east 
side,  commencing  at  South  Hadley  village,  a  canal  has 
been  constructed,  corresponding  in  extent  with  these 
falls,  through  which  lumber  and  the  largest  boats  pass. 

Previous  to  reaching  Northampton,  the  river,  (in 
which  there  is  an  abrupt  turn,)  passes  between  Mount 
Tom  on  the  south,  and  Mount  Holyokc  {see  p.  349)  on 
the  north.  North  of  the  latter  mountain,  a  most  charm- 
ing and  extensive  plain  is  presented,  embracing  many 
elegant  villages  and  country  seats. 

Northampton,  5  miles  from  South  Hadley.  (See  p. 
349.) 

Hadlet,  2  miles  east  of  Northampton.    {See  p.  350.) 

Hatfield,  5  miles  north  of  Northampton,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  a  neat  and  venerable  town, 
having  been  settled  as  early  as  1658.  In  October,  1 675, 
after  the  burning  of  Springfield,  {see  p.  455,)  the  Indi- 
ans under  Philip,  flushed  with  their  repeated  successes, 
made  an  attack  on  Hatfield ;  which  was  then  defended 
by  two  companies,  aided  by  a  third,  which  came  to 
their  rehef  during  tlie  conflict.    The  Indians  we-c  about 


1  V 


i- 


MUDDT  BROOK. 


467 


700  strong,  and  made  a  furious  assault  upon  the  town 
in  various  directions,  pillaging  and  burning  several  of 
the  houses.  But  they  were  defeated,  and  compelled  to 
seek  safety  in  a  precipitate  flight. 

On  the  30th  of  May  of  the  following  year,  another 
attack  was  made  upon  Hatfield  by  600  Indians.  Twelve 
unfortified  buildings  were  immediately  burnt ;  but  the 
others,  which  were  pallisaded,  were  defended  by  a  few 
inhabitants.  Part  of  the  Indians  then  repaired  to  the 
fields,  and  attacked  the  men  at  their  labor;  but  25 
young  men  crossed  the  river  from  Hadley,  and  rushing 
upon  the  enemy,  killed  several,  and  finally,  with  the 
aid  of  the  inhabitants,  dispersed  them. 


le 
n, 
|5, 
li- 
ts, 
3d 
Ito 
jut 


MuDDT  Brook,  9  miles  from  Hatfield,  is  a  small  v'i\- 
lage,  deriving  its  name  from  a  stream  which  passes 
through  the  place,  bordered  by  a  narrow  morass.  The 
place  in  IC75,  and  for  some  time  subsequent,  was  call- 
ed Bloody  Brookf  in  consequence  of  a  battle  which  waa 
fought  with  the  Indians  on  the  18th  of  September  of 
that  year,  Capt.  Lothrop,  who  had  been  despatched 
with  80  men  and  several  teams,  to  secure  a  quantity  of 
wheat  in  Deerfield,  two  or  thro*^  miles  farther  north, 
was  surprised  on  his  return  through  this  place,  by  a 
party  of  700  Indians,  who  had  secretly  watched  his 
movements,  and  who  lay  in  ambush  awaiting  his  ar- 
rival. He  had  no  sooner  crossed  the  small  stream 
above  mentioned,  than  they  rushed  upon  him,  pouring 
in  such  a  deadly  fire  as  to  produce  complete  discomfit- 
ure. Lothrop  and  his  men  fled ;  but  being  pursued 
and  overtaken  at  all  points,  they  resolved  to  sell  their 
lives  in  a  vigorous  struggle.    They  accordingly  posted 


458 


DECnFIfiLD. 


themselves  behind  the  noi^'hborlng  trcofl  ;  ^vhen  the 
conflict  become  a  trial  of  skill  in  sharp  shooting.  At 
len;rth  the  stnijzglo  terminated  in  the  aniihilution  of 
neorly  the  whole  of  the  En«?lish,  Lothrop  wna  killed 
in  the  early  part  of  the  action  ;  and  his  loss,  including 
teamsters,  amounted  to  ninety,  The  troops  at  Deer- 
field,  under  Captain  Moscly,  hearing  the  musketry, 
httstoncd  to  the  scene  of  combat,  and  arrived  soon  af- 
ter its  close.  They  found  tbo  Indians  stripping  the 
slain.  Moscly  improving  the  favorable  opportunity, 
rushed  upon  them  and  cut  tbcm  down  in  all  direc- 
tions, driving  tbo  remainder  into  the  adjacent  swamps. 
The  next  morning,  it  was  found  that  a  few  Indians  had 
rf>turncd  to  the  field  of  battle  for  the  purpose  of  plun- 
der ;  but  they  were  soon  dispersed. 

Though  the  loss  of  the  enemy  on  the  previous  doy 
was  estimated  at  about  100,  the  engagement  was,  nev- 
ertheless, more  disastrous  in  its  consequences  to  the 
English,  The  destruction  of  ninety  valuable  men,  the 
flower  of  a  thinly  scattered  population,  was  calculated 
to  produce  much  despondency,  and  occasion  the  most 
serious  apprehensions  for  the  safety  of  the  remaining 
colonists. 

The  place  where  this  battle  was  fought  is  near  the 
centre  of  the  village,  about  30  rods  south  of  the  church. 
The  bridge  over  the  stream  is  located  at  the  place  where 
Ix>throp  crossed.  Some  remains  of  a  coarse  monumenit 
once  erected  here  are  still  visible. 


Derrfield,  3  miles  from  Muddy  Brook,  and  17 
miles  north  of  Northampton,  is  a  handsome  village  on 


DEERFIELD* 


459 


7 


tho  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  very  fertile  and  beautiful  country,  presenting 
a  succesHion  of  rich  and  highly  cultivated  farms.  The 
town  v/as  among  tho  early  settlements  on  the  river ; 
and,  more  than  any  other  place,  was  tho  theatre  of  In- 
dian warfare.  In  September,  1G75,  an  attack  was  made 
on  tho  place,  one  man  killed,  and  several  houses  re- 
duced to  ashes.  For  about  20  years  subsequent  to  this, 
owing  to  repeated  incursions  of  tho  savages,  the  inhab- 
itants were  often  compelled  to  abandon  their  dwellings 
and  seek  a  temporary  asylum  in  tho  neighboring  towns. 
During  tho  French  wars  under  William  and  Anne,  how- 
ever, they  maintained  their  ground  until  1704  ;  made 
many  improvements  and  enclosed  the  centre  of  the  vil- 
lage by  an  extensive  but  imperfect  pallisaded  work. 
This  fortification  was  attacked  by  about  350  French 
and  Indians,  in  the  month  of  February  of  that  year. 
They  had  secretly  taken  a  position  two  miles  north  of 
the  village  on  tho  evening  of  the  9th ;  from  whence 
they  cautiously  proceeded  to  the  fort  the  next  morning 
before  day.  There  being  no  sentinels  posted,  the  for- 
tification was  easily  entered,  and  tho  work  of  destruc* 
tion  commenced  ere  the  inhabitants  had  aroused  from 
their  slumbers.  A  feeble  resistance,  only,  could  be 
made.  All  the  houses,  except  one,  within  the  pali- 
sades, were  burnt ;  between  40  and  50  of  the  inhabi- 
tants were  killed,  and  112,  including  women  and  chil- 
dren, made  prisoners.  In  the  drear  of  winter,  with  a 
scanty  supply  of  provisions,  and  with  little  clothing, 
the  unfortunate  captives  were  compelled  to  take  up 
their  line  of  march  for  Canada.  Mr.  Williams,  tho 
clergyman  of  the  place,  and  his  family,  were  of  the 


^'"  I 


460 


GREENFIELD. 


number.  His  wife*  was  murdered  in  tw6  or  three 
daya  after  commencing  the  excursion  ;  and  sixteen 
others  eitlier  died  or  were  massacred  before  reachinsr 
the  Province.  Most  of  those  who  survived,  after  re- 
maining in  captivity  for  some  time,  were  redeemed.  A 
daughter  of  Mr.  Williams,  however,  who  had  married 
an  Indian  chief,  refused  to  return.  She  assumed  the 
habiliment  of  a  savage,  and  died  in  Canada  some 
years  afterwards.  Several  of  her  descendants  are  still 
living  there. 

The  house  which  survived  the  conflagration  at  Deer- 
field  is  still  standing,  and  is  owned  by  Col.  Elihu  Hoyt. 
It  is  in  a  tolerable  state  of  preaervation,  and  exhibits 
to  this  day  the  perforation  made  in  the  door  by  toma- 
hawks, as  well  as  the  marks  of  balls  in  the  interior. 
One  of  these  marks  is  shown,  as  having  been  made  by 
a  ball  which  killed  a  female  in  the  house  ;  and  in  one 
of  the  timbers  a  bullet  is  seen,  which  has  never  been 
extracted. 

Greenfield,  4  miles  from  Deerfield,  is  a  large  and 
pleasant  village,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river ;  from 
which  it  is  distant  2  miles.  It  contains  a  court  house, 
jail,  bank  and  3  churches.  It  is  a  central  position  for 
the  trade  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  is  a  place  of 
wealth  and  enterprise.  A  young  Ladies^  Seminary  at 
this  place  is  beautifully  located,  and  under  excellent 
regulations. 


*  She  was  afterwards,  with  her  husband,  interred  in 
the  church-yard  at  Deerfield,  and  marble  slabs  placed 
over  their  graves. 


TURNER^a   FALLS. 


461 


Turner's  Falls,  on  the  Connecticut  river,  are  3 
miles  from  Greenfield,  in  a  north-easterly  direction. 
The  road  taken  in  visiting  them  is  east  of  the  ordinary 
stage  route ;  and  it  is  customary,  therefore,  after  an 
excursion  to  the  falls,  to  return  to  Greenfield.  The 
route  is  principally  over  the  ground  taken  by  Capt. 
Turner,  in  his  attack  on  the  Indians  in  1676.  The 
fall  is  between  forty  and  fifty  feet ;  but  by  the  erection 
of  a  dam  for  the  accommodation  of  a  canal,  the  cat- 
aract has  lost  much  of  its  original  wildness. 

The  Indians,  amounting  to  several  hundreds,  hav- 
ing taken  a  position  on  elevated  ground,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river  at  the  head  of  the  fall,  it  was  deemed 
important  to  disloge  them.  This  service  was  under- 
taken by  Capt.  Turner,  at  the  head  of  about  ISO  mount- 
ed troops.  He  left  Hatfield  on  the  17th  of  May,  1676, 
and  reached  within  half  a  mile  of  the  Indian  encamp- 
ment before  day  the  next  morning  without  discovery. 
Here  his  men  left  their  horses,  and  by  a  rapid  march, 
reached  the  camp  before  the  Indians  awoke  from  their 
slumbers.  A  deadly  and  destructive  fire  was  immedi- 
aicly  commenced.  Believing  it  to  proceed  from  their 
ancient  and  powerful  enemy  the  Mohawks,  many  of 
the  Indians  fled  to  the  river,  and  leaped  into  their  ca- 
noes ;  but,  in  attempting  to  cross,  they  were  mostly 
shot  or  precipitated  over  the  cataract.  Others  fled  to 
the  rocks  of  the  river  bank,  where  they  were  cut  down 
without  resistance  ;  and  few  escaped  the  victorious 
arms  of  the  assailants.  One  hundred  were  left  dead  on 
the  field  ;  one  hundred  and  forty  were  seen  to  descend 
the  cataract ;  and  their  whole  loss  was  afterwards  as- 
certained to  have  been  300.    Turner  lost  but  one  man. 


462 


VERNON— BRATTLKBOROtrGH. 


In  his  retreat,  he  was  less  fortunate.  He  was  at- 
tacked by  other  parties  of  Indians  on  the  route — his 
men  divided — himself  killed  ;  and  the  loss  of  his  par-* 
ty,  before  they  reached  Hatfield,  amounted  to  between 
30  and  40.  Capt.  T.  is  supposed  to  have  fallen  in 
what  is  called  Greenfield  Meadow,  at  the  mouth  of  a 
small  stream  on  which  a  mill  now  stands ;  as  his  body 
was  afterwards  found  at  that  place  by  a  scoutin^^  party 
of  the  £nglish. 

Bernardstowk,  5  miles  north  of  Greenfield. 

Vernon,  6  miles ;  the  first  town  reached  in  en4;ering 
the  state  of  Vermont.  Fort  Dummer,  built  to  protect 
the  inhabitants  against  the  Indians,  was  located  at  this 
place. 

Guilford,  5  miles.  Here  are  two  slate  quarries  an  J 
several  mills  and  manufactories. 

Brattleborouoh,  6  miles,  a  flourishing  village,  is 
located  on  the  west  bank  of  th&  Connecticut  river ; 
over  which  there  is  a  permanent  bridge.  White  stone 
creek  also  passes  through  tlie  place,  affording  a  num- 
ber of  good  mill  sites.  The  village  contains  a  bank, 
the  most  extensive  printing  establishment  in  the  state, 
and  several  manufactories.  Stages  pass  daily  between 
this  place  and  Boston,  Hartford,  Albany  and  Hanoven 

DuuMERSTON,  5  miles. 


FuTNBT,  5  miles. 


Wf^^""- 


WESTMINSTER — CHARLESTOWN. 


463 


Westminstei,  5  miles.  Tho  first  newspaper  print- 
ed in  Vermon;  v  as  issued  froi;i  a  presa  ii  this  place  ; 
though  it  was  discontinued  several  years  sine 3  for  want 
of  patronage.  The  village  is  located  on  a  beautiful 
plain  on  the  west  banlv  of  the  Connecticut ;  but  it  has 
not  improved  much  within  the  last  twenty  years. 

Walpole,  N.  H.  to  which  a  bridge  leads,  is  on  the 
■opposite  side  of  the  river,  avd  is  noticed  at  p.  page  359. 

Bellows  Falls,  on  the  Ve  nont  side,  4  miles  from 
"WalpoJe.  (See  p.  357.)  Proceeding  up  the  river  over 
a  beautiful  plain, 

Charlestown,  N.H.  is  reached  in  travelling  8  miles 
from  Bellows  Falls.  It  is  handsomely  located  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  and  is  v.  neat  village,  containing 
a  court  house,  jail  and  bank. 

A  fort  was  built  for  the  defence  of  this  place  in  1743, 
on  rising  ground  south  of  the  «  burch,  over  which  the 
present  street  passes.  In  Mai\.iv  1/47,  while  the  fort 
was  occupied  by  Capt.  Stevens  and  thirty  men,  a  furi- 
ous assault  was  made  upon  it  by  a  large  body  of  French 
and  Indians,  under  the  command  of  M.  Debeline.  The 
fort  being  composed  of  materials  which  were  combus- 
tible, the  enemy  attempted  its  acstruction  by  setting  a 
log  house  and  the  fences  to  the  >.  indward  on  fire.  To 
guard  against  a  conflagration,  the  besieged,  through 
great  exertions,  succeeded  in  making  sevenl  subterra- 
nean passages  under  the  parapei,  with  an  opening  at 
the  top  of  each.  From  these  passages,  which  were 
deep  enough  to  protect  the  men  from  the  enemy's  shot, 

pp 


# 


k':-^'.-A^  Sin^l.  <i.  iU 


%  f(' 


4$i 


ffVRINOFIXLD — WEATHBRSriELD. 


T^'iter  ta^en  from  a  well  within  the  fort,  was  thrown 
upon  the  parapet,  and  the  plan  of  the  enemy  frustiated. 
A  sortt>f  manUldf  loaded  with  dry  faggots,  seion  fire, 
was  then  forced  towards  the  fort,  accompanied  with 
flarmng  arrows  ;  but  all  to  no  purpose.  Btevens  main- 
tained his  position,  continued  a  fire  upon  the  enemy 
whenever  he  presented  himself,  and  rffused  all  propo- 
•itionti  of  a  surrender.  After  an  assault  of  three  days, 
iMid  sufieriog  severely  in  the  loss  of  his  men,  Debeline 
withdrew  from  the  siege.  None  of  Stevens'  men  were 
killed,  and  but  two  wounded. 

For  this  brave  defence.  Sir  Charles  Knowles,  com* 
xnandant  of  a  naval  force  then  in  Boston  harbor,  sent 
Capt.  Stevens  an  elegant  sword.  The  town  was  sub- 
fiiequently  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Charles. 

From  Charlestown  a  stage  may  be  taken  daily  for 
Kaiatcga  Springs,  passing  through  Chester,  Manches- 

i,  &c. :  or  for  Boston,  passing  through  Walpol^, 
( See  jp.  356(0  362.) 


*fj 


.eene,  &c. 


Springfield,  Vt.  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  5 
miles  from  Charlestown.  ^ 

Weathersfjeld,  6  miles ;  a  fine  agricultural  town- 
ship. Jarvis'  farm,  at  what  is  termed  WeathersfieM 
Bow  (a  turn  in  the  river)  is  considered  one  of  the  best 
in  Vermont. 

Windsor,  7  miles.    {See  p.  366.) 

'    Hartland,  7  miles. 


.**• 


HARTFORD — HANOTER. 


465 


Hartpord,  7  miles.  There  arc  two  handsome  villa- 
ges in  this  town  ;  one  near  the  junction  of  the  White 
river,  and  the  other  near  the  junction  of  the  Q,ueechy 
river  with  the  Connecticut.  In  both  there  ore  several 
mills  and  manufactories,  F'  i  Hartford  the  river  is 
crossed  to 


Hanover,  (noticed  at  p.  06  < 
may  be  taken  daily  for  Burling 


ni  whence  a.  stage 
t.  or  Boston. 


FINIS. 


•  •  • 

•  » 

k  • » 


•  •  • 


•  •  • 


'  •    *  • 


•  •  •  • 


•    •  •      • 
•  •  •  •  •  • 


I] 


